TDA7297 stereo audio amplifier board test and review
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.ค. 2024
- This is a linear (class ab) type stereo amp board with bridged output. Rated at 15w/ch @8 Ohms, 10% THD. I put it through the usual tests to see how good it is.
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Great review on a wonderful little amp board. Thank you John
Excellent review! And great recommendations with supply voltage
Wow, thankyou for your prefect video. You did a great job. It was a pleasure to watch.
Love the references of both AVE and EEV! Keep it up.
Awesome video. I just bought four of these amps. Glad to see it wasn't a waste of money. I paid $1.89 CAD each for them.
Love watching your videos, especially the testing. I wish you could run some temp tests directly on the chip itself, using a 1khz waveform input. Thanks!
Thanks for your efforts, your review is very comprehensive.
Those little amps are sold as an amp for DC and AC input voltage. That's also why that diode is there as well. Its a half wave rectifier. Although I always have used DC input to reduce noise. I have purchased amd used 4 or 5 of these. I am very impressed with these amps.
Good dear
John I'm playing with its bigger brother the TDA7375 I took out of a Blaupunkt car stereo here in Australia. Thanks for your review and sharing.
tda7375
I've got an idea for you. How about testing cheap caps vs high quality ones. Maybe show any difference in them in a working crossover circuit. I've heard arguments that there's no audible difference and some say they can hear differences even between the highest quality parts. It applies to both active and passive circuits. Just a thought. I respect your honest opinions. Hope you get more support from companies looking for an honest critique or just more exposure.
There's more to caps than "audible difference", in case you didn't know.
Nice review.. getting one soon thanks.
Thank you Very much for the Video.
Focus you FAAAK! Recently sub'd, love your work
Great review once again!
If you want a lot more amp power tests, BigDWiz tests these little amps, car power amps and some home audio gear as well. Check him out.
I'm outta Heeeerrrrrreee!
John, you do such a thorough review of each amplifier you test, I'd love to start working with you. I'm an enthusiast, it's obvious you are either an EE or have extensive background in electronics. We both appear have the desire to test amps! I'll be more than willing to send you some of these mini amps I'm testing now so you can check them out. Maybe we can work out some kind of collaboration? You can contact me via email bigdwiz (at) gmail if you want. Looking forward to hearing from you.
John, there is a lot more to this Amp and with minor adjustments, I have cooled it after running it at a very high volume to the point that at "anytime", You could put your Tung on it (The Processor), again after running this Amplifier for well over an hour at a very high volume !
That said I run only "1" Channel @ 12v - 6a on one 12" (6" Woofer - 1" Tweeter) Home/Bookshelf Speaker and for life expectancy @ a little more than 1/2 power (Say 65%) and the sound quality and the depth of the sound is unreal !!
And I won't name the price of each Amp... ?
Ridiculous !!!
I don't know 5% (Electronics) of what you know and I have none of your equipment but My ears can tell me a great sound !
Amazing how little most know ?
Rick - SoCal
Email sent! I had some EE in college but enjoy it mainly as a hobby. I've enjoyed audio for a long time. Electronics and audio go well together. Have a happy & safe 4th!
BigDWiz
You guys both rock!
Nice video John!
When you say clean power - do you mean that you don’t see any spikes reaching to the 1% reference point that you show on your scope?
Hi John,,, thank you for doing your review,, I was wondering if it would be possible to add what Current draw for voltage these amplifiers use?
Great timing John, I purchased a couple of these in kit form just a few days ago (waiting on delivery). What I think I might do is omit the diode as it's not shown as required on the datasheet, think it's just there for reverse polarity protection.
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great review thanks
I am using if for a piezo pickup amp for my guitar and uke. Works great. And cheap. Wish it had a tone pot though. Anyway to add a tone pot?
Nice review
I have the 7377 and I really like the little amp. I guess this is its little brother.
Sold out, I guess it's popular. Nice!
Robert Kohut Their great little amps. I bought 7 on ebay from brilliantly-illuminated ..They work well
In a bridged amplifier like this one , is there any necessity to add output coupling capacitors at outputs to prevent DC from going to the speakers & damaging them ? Does DC really harms the speakers ?
Hi John. Could I use this amp on the headphone jack on my Samsung tv. Doesnt have audio outputs.
Great video, I have that amp, great to buid something that sounds good
Hey John. Enjoy the video's. Is there any way to add any circuity to the LED to reduce the brightness? I have always wondered. I have several devices that have super bright LEDs that I wish were not so bright. Maybe you could do a video?
jeff hayes You could just replace the resistor that is in series with the LED with a higher value one
Very useful review- looking for a 9v amp for a bench amp to test pedal effects. Tried a pam8610, but found it noisy, and an lm386 (noisy cricket) but the power was underwhelming (was only able to get 0.3w clean). Price of this module is very cheap now, so worth trying it out- hopefully 2.7w clean output on 8r will work out. Would be useful to learn if and how this amp (module) could be bridged for more power!
Goid dear..subscribe anotheroption2.0
great Channel .Jon congratulations for all of your [ help to us ] by your channel. Jon i am thinking about 1 month now for buying this Amp.TDA7297 stereo audio amplifier but my problem it is that i canot find the frequency responce range. of this board and the 90%of all Amplifiers. Can you tell me please Jon it is the regular 20HZ to 20KHZ ? ? ?. Or its diferent ? thankou for all. my best regards, from thessaloniki Greece.
I've had this thing for several years and its got it quirks. It's being used 24/7 with my computer and powering a couple of cheap speakers. Computer on I hear a pop. Same when the computer switches off. It needed a new electolytic cap after a year. The old one began to buldge. It seems to have some grounding problem in relation to what the computer is doing. If you just disconnect the inpute it develops a loud buzz. Just a few weeks ago it developed a cracking sound on certain frequencies though one channel. It could be the speaker but its hard to tell.
The pop from the computer turn on/off is probably the computer sending a pulse as the coupling caps charge up or discharge during power on or off. Turn the volume down on the amp to see if it goes away. Noise from unplugging the input is just electrical noise picked up on the input line. These amps use cheap components that can fail, so I'm not surprised about the remaining problems.
I bought this amplifier for 4" full range speakers.
Sound quality is great but it needs power supply ground separated from source, otherwise you will hear noise comming out of speakers.
How is that achieved ?
So this amp should not stress that much if I'm running it on a 6 ohm load at 12V (2A)? Got this for 3$ and waiting for the package to arrive!
Once again a great informative video with no woffle. My amp driving my PC speakers is over 10 years old and getting a bit of a hum. If I can't fix it this will do nicely. Ebay UK it's £1.93 ($2.52) free postage. I'm getting 2, how do they do it for $5.
Hello, thx for the review, I bought 4 of them in china, 2 of them are working perfectly but 1 has no output at all and 1 is making pops and cracking noises when playing, did you ever had similar issues? Could it be that tda chip is defect?
I'd love to see a test on a little board I just received... I have no idea what chip it's using; however doing a search of "20w Bluetooth 2.1 channel board" on eBay will show you what I have. It has two knobs on the front side and comes with jst pigtail connectors for battery, left channel, right channel, and subwoofer. I had a nice voombox Bluetooth speaker that the board died on me, and having tiny smd components I decided not to bother trying to fix. I harvested the speakers, passive radiators, and the subwoofer to reuse and I'm glad I did. $4.62 for the amp board. I can assemble a high capacity 1s li-ion pack for no out of pocket cost.. now I'm just looking into enclosure materials and design.
John I am enjoying your videos, thanks. Can you recommend a small stereo amp board that can manage 4 ohm speakers at 12 VDC? I have a bunch of them as well as some 16 ohm speakers. Any help would be appreciated.
Check my amplifier playlist. I have reviewed several that will work with 4 ohms and should be fine with 16 ohms as well. Most work at 12v dc.
JohnAudioTech Thanks John.
Power output u calculated is Per channel or it is total power combined on both channel ??
Can this be used by 9 volt external battery or 5.5 volt battery?
I have 3 of these and I`m pretty happy with the little amps, I`m getting some hum when touching the volume knob at anything beyond 1/3rd volume though, but no biggie..
I run one of them in a DIY speaker with 2 samsung ht 2.5" 15W 8ohm speakers in a 2.5Liter box using a 11.1V LiPo, and have a balance charger inside the box, and a voltmeter up front with the volume knob.
Next edition will be 1.5L and I`ll include a low voltage cutoff :)
OR, I`ll use 2 of these and 4 drivers, as I have four of them lol, I also have two 20W tweeters, so I guess I could make a much bigger box too..
Time will tell :)
Long rant, good little amps..
Btw, I use a FiiO headphone amp to get the full potential out of the amp, as it seems to want a high input signal
You can get rid of the hum by soldering a jumper lead to the metal shell of the pot and connecting the other end to a ground point on the board.
DIY speakers are fun to build. The ones used in my videos took a bit of tuning to sound right but once they do, you're in audio heaven!
Heaps of these on aliexpress... and the prices vary wildly. A lot seem to omit the heat sink and given how large they are... guessing they're there for a reason. Hate the way most mount the audio input on the front near the volume knob as it limits how it can be used. I have a similar lm386 amp at the moment I use on an ESP32 and it works great... but eventually I want to get stereo output going.
How can you tell if the Chip Amp Ic is fugazzi? (Counterfeit?) I bought the same module at Temu and wanted to know the difference.
Generic question here but im strongly considering using this board for a DIY "Sound Bar" for my TV as this TDA chip has the specs i'm looking for. Do you think a Mean Well LRS-50-15 will be able to have this IC reach full power into 8 Ohms? i know that supply is only 15V but it can be adjusted from 13.8V to 17. something volts. ill most likely set it to 16V
OR
Would i be better off going with the Parts Express PAM8610 board? both options seem to put out the same power into 8 Ohms at 14-16 volts
Thanks in advance, love the vids!
www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=LRS-50-15virtualkey63430000virtualkey709-LRS50-15
+JohnAudioTech
What is the size of the DC input socket? 5.5x2.1 or 5.5x2.5? Thanks for the great video!
I believe it is a 2.1mm
ebay sellers claim 2x15W, your test equipment is out of whack they cant lie on ebay........
great vid i'm just looking at cheap boards to make some pc speakers a little better than its 2w things
will this work with a turntable have a tube amp thats completely failed need something to replace to drive 1 six inch speaker and 2 small tweeters
Please answer me sir which is better amplifier pam8610 or tda7297 in detail ?
What about bridging the 2 audio outputs together? What kind of results would you get?
smoke !
Can I disable the LED by snipping it off?
Jonh I studied your video here and went to look at the full data sheet of TDA 7297 altho I just didn't understand all the points and FIGURES give.
One thing I noted immediately was its output is actually more or less 5wpc rms at 16.5vdc, output measured at 8 ohms THD< 1%. I use two pairs of jbl 4320 speakers and they are very efficient, @96dB SPL 1 metre. And so I decided to order 2 of these amps, assembled. At taobao, these cost me peanuts, literally.
Long story short, they are doing an incredible job here. And so I am wondering. The jbl 4320 was produced with an active amp'ed in its time for studio applications, and two way low level active cross-over boards pre-assembled kits are the way for me to go (yea coz the fun is huge, init?). So, maybe I'll give it a go.
Can i connect car high freqvency speaker paralel with a loud-mid speaker?
Pls john from your experience pls recommend me a amplifier i should buy for true rms ranging 30 to 50 watt rms per channel
@JohnAudioTech
Made a monoblock of this PCB using only one speaker channel out. The specification says:
2A "Output Peak Current (internally limited)"
Is that limit 2A for the total chip current draw. So when I use only one channel is that allowed to draw up to 2A or is it divided between the channels to 1A each?
That is a interesting question how the limitation is implemented in the chip.
If the limitation is on the whole chip or on each channel 2A/2?!
I did some calculations with your numbers. I use 12v battery so I only look at that:
8ohm 2ch clean power (5.27x2)/12 give 0.87A
4ohm 2ch clean power (6.25x2)/12 give 1.04A
The specification state MAXIMUM ratings:
2A, 33W and 20V. Gives 33/20 = 1.65A
(Most probably not clean and in clipping)
So my conclusion is that either way I will never hit the 2A limit and not even 1A in one channel driven, that I use.
So the "internally limited" current is no issue when we stay and use clean power and not go into clipping.
Is this a right conclusion to make?
@@AmazonasBiotop The 2A rating is peak current for each channel. The poor power output performance of this IC with 4 ohm loads tells me it is struggling to handle the current. At 12 v supply, I'd expect around 12 watts of clean power with a 4 ohm load and this IC delivers only 6.25w. Sq root(6.25w/4ohm)=1.25 A. This is an rms value, we need peak, so multiply that by the square root of 2 to get 1.77 A peak. This is below the 2A peak limit. I'm not sure why the current limiter is activating early. It could be a thermal issue.
I just reviewed the TDA7377. It is on a similar style board with a better heat sink. The chip performs much better, giving the expected power into a 4 ohm load. It has a much higher current limit of 4.5A peak.
@@JohnAudioTech thanks for your reply.
I parallel the TDA7297 in my build like you showed in one of your videos.
With 4 resistors.
I made the same but used a little bit oversized resistors (four 10w 0.1 ohm). It did not work the chip went into clipping and the heat sink got incredible hot!
Here is a video and sound of it:
th-cam.com/video/Iz9I3hJNAt8/w-d-xo.html
(There is 3 more parts if you want to see the build)
Wonder what went wrong?
@@AmazonasBiotop Sounds like the phasing is wrong on the outputs which makes a short circuit. Try reversing the connections on one of the outputs.
@@JohnAudioTech Thanks will look into it or upgrade to the better TDA7377.
Today I only use one channel on each amp.
Hello. I have bought this tda7297 board from amazon. I have hooked it up to two sony speakers rated at 25 w 6ohms. I use a power supply of 12 volt 3 amps to power it. I was wondering what would happen if i connected a preamp board board between this and the 3.5 mm output?
you would hook the pre-amp BEFORE the amp, not after it. I'd assume that the tda7297 output would blow the input of the pre-amp if you wire it as you mention. Having the pre-amp before the tda should not be a problem but, depending on your original signal source, it may not be needed...
Thank's! What's the power bandwidth?
Best source Without distors on max volume?
Hello John, I subscrbed to your channel and like your reviews.
John, I bought one of these TDA7293 amp boards that require a AC input and
the ad mentions only 12-50Volts AC. I want to make it into a 100watt (peak) guitar
extension speaker that will be slaved off the the headphone mini-jack from , my
Fender Champion 40w SS amp that already uses a similar audio IC (TDA7294).
The AC input (Hammond transformer with centretap ) available is either a
185E36 (36 volt secondary CT @2.2 amps)
or
185E28 ; 28 volt secondary CT @2.8amps.
Which one should I use not to exceed the DC rail voltage, and still get a good power level
from this amp?
From my calculations, 28volt secondary rectified by a full wave bridge is 28 AC x 1.41= 39.5 vdc peak no load.
With a the TDA7293 load (2amps @80watts? peak), the power rails shouldn't drop down much below 25vdc.
Not sure what the Chinese advertiser means about 12vac -> 50volt AC ..Does it mean I can only use a Max 50volt AC secondary?
That could mean thatthe 50volt AC which would exceed the rating of the chip?
max 50vac x 1.41 = 70.5vdc (+/- 35 vdc per rail).
With a 8ohm load the avg dc would be around 50vac x 0.90 = 45vdc or about 22-23vdc per positive and negative power rail.
Should I use a 28v ct or a 36v ct and still be safe witout power rail regulator (T0-220) to
be on the safeside?
I'm also putting in a speaker fuse (2A fast blow) to protect a expensive guitar speaker (Celestion V series $131) since this TDA is dc coupled directly to the speaker and COMMON.
These appear to be the wrong transformers. The 36v version has two 18v secondaries and the 28v one, two 14v secondaries. These would not provide the IC with enough voltage for the high power you want. Look for a transformer with two 28 volt secondaries or a center tapped 56v secondary. For the power you need, select a transformer with 3 amp secondaries or 168 volt-amp rating minimum.
Personally, I multiply the transformer's voltage by 1.6 to get the max unloaded rail voltage. This allows for load regulation and a bit high line volts (mains voltage), so the DC rail could reach up to 45volts DC (90v across the rails) using the 28 volt per side transformer. This is to assure you are safe with that chip which you are. Under a decent load the DC could fall to around 38v or so per rail.
Some of those kits are dubious in quality. I can only recommend the one I tested.
Your advice is much appreciated. Yes, I am dubious at the price of these amps now on Ebay going for less than $5. The transformer is going to be the most expensive item for this build , so I would like it to be the correct one for around 80watts output.
I found a Hammond 56vCT at Mouser that will do the job. It is 100va @1.8amps secondary. Hammond part number 186F56.
It should work, but still, I'd get at least a 150 va.
Do you remember vaugely how much current this pulled from the power supply 16v 8ohm @ clean full output?
Cheers
I'll be running this setup in couple of days - I'll let you know. At 12 volts the current draw was a little over 1 amp into 4 ohm load. It did get hot as John said.
The current draw at 18 volts into 8 Ohm loads before clipping was 1,75 amps with 1kHz sine wave. It went over 2 amps with square wave.
I'm going to buy a linear power supply soon is there anyway to set the supply to where it shows the current its drawing and to let it go up and down accordingly?
An inline amp meter would do the trick.
JohnAudioTech thankssss! I knew that but I hadn't even thought of it. I need to get one though. I have a 5v usb one.
so the big question is:
is it better than the pam8610? i made some speakers and they are 25w each. i tried them with the pam8610 but it sounds horrible. so should i get this one?
oh and they are 4ohm
I have questions-
1. Can this chip be powered by a 12 Volt transformer which outputs around 20 volts @ no load ?
2. If this chip is used with higher wattage speakers like 40 watts (6 inches speakers) , will it lead to overheating of the chip ?
Max voltage of the IC is 18v. I assume that voltage is after rectification and filtering. The light load of the IC at idle my lower the voltage a bit. You'd have to check that.
Speaker wattage has no bearing on the current draw from the IC's output. The speaker impedance is what is what determines the current draw, so an 8 ohm 15 watt speaker would work as would an 8 ohm 1,000 watt speaker.
You may be able to run it at 4V, but how hot does it get?
sir i having 10 inch pioneer subwoofer 2 speaker
sujest me subwoofer board for two speaker.....
i need only bass on speaker....
How do you get 8.4rms (i.e. 24Vpp) from 16v power supply?
Output is bridge configuration.
I TRY using at 4 ohm load at 16V the heatsink it get really hot
Which kind of you are listening music .it's depend on bass or treeble
how amp its need.for making a subwoofer with low pass filter.please tell.
Frequency response if flat well below 20Hz, so it would work fine if you provide a good low pass filter.
who is better , this or pam8610 ?
Do you have the schematic of this amp?
what is the name of your cat??? i like your cat it is not in this video but the thumbnail of the last video makes me feel happy because of that cat!!
Snickers is his name. He showed up at my parents' house out in the country. My mom named him. They had three cats at the time and didn't want another one. I had one cat already and didn't want another either. I eventually decided to take him home. 11 years later he is still with me!
JohnAudioTech i love cats an audio amps and pcs and trucks ...??
John's cat's name is Snickers :)
I'm not a tech-head, so what I'm asking may not be relevant to your other followers. I came across an old late 40s/early 50s radio that has a nice case. I want to put an F.M radio in it, but maintain the vintage look. Most of the inexpensive kits would be hard to adapt, since they're stereo. I don't want to bridge both outputs to one speaker. The cheesy kits are all I've seen in my price range. Would using the TDA 7293 amp be a realistic way of getting good sound out of this?
That's a lot of power for an old radio, especially if you use the original speaker. If its a small radio, I'd go 1 watt tops. If it is a larger radio with, say a 10 or 12" speaker, I'd go 5 watts tops. Those old speakers are made to be very loud with little power and cannot handle a lot of power.
@@JohnAudioTech The original speaker was damaged, so i was planning on using a car audio speaker. Since they are avail;able in six inch sizes. The original radio wiring was in poor shape, and I'm not sure how easy it would be to replace the tubes. Plus, I don't listen to a.m, so using the case with modern components seems like the easiest plan for a non-techie, like myself. The tuning window is rather small, so putting a digital face in the spot seems like an easy alternative. Adapting it so I can use similar sized pots is the hardest thing for me to do. .
Which is the best chip,lm 1875 or tda7297
LM1875
Can i connect 6ohm speaker
Sir, please review tpa 3118d2 Mono board
This is nice amplifier ,but this os very hots too....,power output is good ,i using adaptor 12v 3a
You can play it if it's for educational purposes
i think i have the album Embryonic Journey was on
Which is better amplifier pam8610 or tda7297
The PAM8610 boards I tried had issues, so go with the 7297.
I have a butch of pam8610 its hard to fit a heat-sink. Hooked tda7297 to a CPU heat-sink and......this thing gets LOUD!!! ( using a pair of 20W speakers) barely warm!
Bought two of these type of boards from HiLetGo. Neither have any output. Very frustrated right now
power supply can be old laptop brick 18-19V IBM
You should test it bridged in mono
Its outputs are already bridged into two stereo channels.
it would be nice if a MOSFET amplifier is made
15w
wish they had RCA inputs
My board has no audio output so far very sad :(
TONSIL GDWT??? 7:00
How to bridge this chip amp
The outputs are already bridged. You can't bridge a bridged amplifier.
JohnAudioTech thanks :)
Sir which country you belong
Check out lpman and and vinyl obsession videos they claim its for educational purposes demonstrating the record player
Use Ncs Music!
3245
Beware if you buy this thing that there is no thermal compound between the chip and the heatsink!!
too much advertising on your channel my friend, it's a shame!!!
Koto dam , kothay thake kinbo mo number dene
Ahhh someone else who watches AVE