Hope this will bring some D series builds alive! These videos are niche and don't generally do very well. If you want to support the channel, please consider showing some support below! 🙏 Thanks!
What did you do with your starter switch signal? Connector A pin 10? Is it not a necessary pin? Reading around I'm told the battery positive voltage is applied to the terminal when the car is cranking, and in doing so the ecu is told to increase the amount of fuel injected to help start the engine (since there is not poorvaporisation due to slow intake air)
@JCYT I followed your sey up on your website the haltech d series preconfiguration wasn't even correct it was almost configuring the car like a b series and couldn't set the trigger to cam per b18-b16, your layout on your website is super helpful
@devon1748 If that's the case I would check if it using an OBD1 harness and pinout. But you may just have to pull the harness out and workout each wire 😅
@JCYT I haven't started the car with your trigger set up yet and I know my last tune tdc was around 20° so I will try all that within the hour. Only thing is I have my injectors wired individual instead of batch so I put it to sequential. I'll let you know thw report
I have a question I think you would be able to help with, have you ever had g101 and g151 issues? Well only conclusion I came up with is because the car sits and dielectric grease is the wrong grease to use because it won’t sweat out condensation. I was getting like flash pop ups in data as error codes for literally every sensor, cleaned everything it all went away, car was fine for a year as it ran heat and there and the last year it has been in storage pulled it out yesterday and it’s back. I read about this, dielectric grease locks in moisture that’s in the metal and it can’t be passed threw that particular grease, I’ve tried carbon grease it’s not that great of conductor and theoretically neither is dielectric grease. What would be best to apply to this besides oil Evan tho I know oil will separate for the water
Hi mate No i haven't but based on the pinout of the 1500, the process would be no different from a wiring perspective - just a lot more inputs and outputs available. I have the 1500 in my RX-7. Once that goes nexus, will convert the D16 to the 1500.
Hey man what frequency are you running your iacv at? And is it bidirectional, unidirectional or complementary? I'm having a hard time getting the idle tuned, cheers!
Hi mate I will have to check those settings and get back to you. It was set as bidirectional. I believe it was set at 200hz Tunelab Racing has been doing some remote idle tuning recently. It's good, close but not quite there yet.
Hey mate Sorry it's not bidirectional. It's uni Fyi. I've been dialing in the idle tuning a lot lately. It's very close to what I'm happy with so I'll put a few settings up on my website shortly
@JCYT ah okay we might have different iacvs, I've got the 3 wire, d16y4. But it only works on bi directional or complementary, and I've gone off your wiring diagram but the wires have to be reversed for me otherwise the pid doesn't work and duty cycle is backwards. Sweet as if you post a shot of your settings and I'll see how they go on mine! My idle is nice atm but PID settings are off
Hi mate Unfortunately i have no way of testing the jumper unless you can verify the d16y4 P2k harness is identical to D16y7. I have them for sale on my website. Does anyone in US make the patch lead? It's a good time to buy the elite. 15% off at the moment
2:50 use a butane torch to desolder the stock ecu header, done it many times with the old OBD-0 ecus... and Hondata = 💩🤣 total waste of time and money nowadays, Microsquirt is alot cheaper and better if youre on a tight budget.
@JCYT Even then mate, in 2004 I had a Megasquirt that could run direct coil on plug in wasted spark mode and have all of the accessories, launch control, shift lights...etc and all you needed was a laptop and serial cable to tune it!
Yes that's what i said. I said the ECU is unreliable. At this age, the capacitors all need replacing amongst other possible fault. I've frequently had issues with Hondata S300 AND KPRO ECUs. This is not due to the Hondata chip or the car itself, it's the aging circuitry of the OEM board. Yes they can be repaired, but there are better standalone options on the market.
@@livelongmetal1392 No I won't. I had it re-soldered and some components replaced before I installed it. And all for half the price of a "basic" Haltech. Including Ecu, software and some extra stuff like BT display. Yes I know I'm basically using a brand new Honda ECU, but that's exactly my point. You gotta be smart about it.
Hope this will bring some D series builds alive! These videos are niche and don't generally do very well. If you want to support the channel, please consider showing some support below! 🙏
Thanks!
Bro, big thanks from Brisbane! Truly appreciate you!
My pleasure mate. Would love to see more D series builds!
really well put together video on this topic. :)
Great video mate, very helpful to watch and I don't even have a Honda🤣
any chance you would share your basemap from before you added the turbo?
Hahaha the D16 loves it
Send it 🚀
Hi Mate, do you think this will work for me? I've got a D16W1 non-Vtec engine (for 2000 Honda Hr-V) ?
Hey mate
I doubt it tbh
How many plugs does it have to the factory ECU and how many pins on each plug?
How do you find the 550 compared to a 750?
What did you do with your starter switch signal? Connector A pin 10? Is it not a necessary pin? Reading around I'm told the battery positive voltage is applied to the terminal when the car is cranking, and in doing so the ecu is told to increase the amount of fuel injected to help start the engine (since there is not poorvaporisation due to slow intake air)
What ecu is this? Nothing I touched involved the starter signal and fuel injection is handled by the haltech anyway
@ just calling back to your oem ECU pins that is shown in your spreadsheet, abbreviated as STS. Found on connector A pin 10
@@secretchalolsian1481 hey mate
Just checked - it's not connected to anything on the haltech loom.
How did you get your trigger set up on the oem distributor? I keep getting an engine position error crank no start situation.
Have you set your timing with a timing gun?
You can set ignition angle to 0
Also - make sure you have your trigger settings correct
@JCYT I followed your sey up on your website the haltech d series preconfiguration wasn't even correct it was almost configuring the car like a b series and couldn't set the trigger to cam per b18-b16, your layout on your website is super helpful
@devon1748 If that's the case I would check if it using an OBD1 harness and pinout. But you may just have to pull the harness out and workout each wire 😅
@JCYT I haven't started the car with your trigger set up yet and I know my last tune tdc was around 20° so I will try all that within the hour. Only thing is I have my injectors wired individual instead of batch so I put it to sequential.
I'll let you know thw report
I have a question I think you would be able to help with, have you ever had g101 and g151 issues? Well only conclusion I came up with is because the car sits and dielectric grease is the wrong grease to use because it won’t sweat out condensation. I was getting like flash pop ups in data as error codes for literally every sensor, cleaned everything it all went away, car was fine for a year as it ran heat and there and the last year it has been in storage pulled it out yesterday and it’s back.
I read about this, dielectric grease locks in moisture that’s in the metal and it can’t be passed threw that particular grease, I’ve tried carbon grease it’s not that great of conductor and theoretically neither is dielectric grease.
What would be best to apply to this besides oil Evan tho I know oil will separate for the water
Hi mate
I'm sorry but have never experienced those issues.
To me it sounds like a sensor grounding issue.
Whereabouts in mexico was the first clip from
Standard day in Sydney, Mexico
Have you attempted one for the 2500 or 1500?
Hi mate
No i haven't but based on the pinout of the 1500, the process would be no different from a wiring perspective - just a lot more inputs and outputs available. I have the 1500 in my RX-7. Once that goes nexus, will convert the D16 to the 1500.
Are you able to just sell the 3D printed case?
Sure mate
I can put a listing up. Will let you know when it's for sale
@@JCYT Im actually surprised I got a reply lol. Thanks man. Ill be sure to buy one when you put a listing up
Hey man what frequency are you running your iacv at? And is it bidirectional, unidirectional or complementary? I'm having a hard time getting the idle tuned, cheers!
Hi mate
I will have to check those settings and get back to you.
It was set as bidirectional. I believe it was set at 200hz
Tunelab Racing has been doing some remote idle tuning recently. It's good, close but not quite there yet.
@JCYT thanks bro, appreciate it alot!
Hey mate
Sorry it's not bidirectional. It's uni
Fyi. I've been dialing in the idle tuning a lot lately. It's very close to what I'm happy with so I'll put a few settings up on my website shortly
@JCYT ah okay we might have different iacvs, I've got the 3 wire, d16y4. But it only works on bi directional or complementary, and I've gone off your wiring diagram but the wires have to be reversed for me otherwise the pid doesn't work and duty cycle is backwards. Sweet as if you post a shot of your settings and I'll see how they go on mine! My idle is nice atm but PID settings are off
Mine is the 3 wire D16y4. I believe they are the same
Have you got the car running well otherwise?
🚀
You’ve single handedly pushed my b swap back, reliable d series turbo 🫡
Can you make a jumper for a US market d16y7 in my 2000 ek hatch? Had my eye on a haltech 550.
Hi mate
Unfortunately i have no way of testing the jumper unless you can verify the d16y4 P2k harness is identical to D16y7. I have them for sale on my website. Does anyone in US make the patch lead?
It's a good time to buy the elite. 15% off at the moment
T51R Mod?
Nup
Just the standard 2860rs from PSR
2:50 use a butane torch to desolder the stock ecu header, done it many times with the old OBD-0 ecus... and Hondata = 💩🤣 total waste of time and money nowadays, Microsquirt is alot cheaper and better if youre on a tight budget.
Yes 100%
It was good in 2010
@JCYT Even then mate, in 2004 I had a Megasquirt that could run direct coil on plug in wasted spark mode and have all of the accessories, launch control, shift lights...etc and all you needed was a laptop and serial cable to tune it!
"unreliable 30 y/o computer" l guess all stock Hondas are unreliable, running "30 y/o computers" and all, 😂
Yes that's what i said. I said the ECU is unreliable. At this age, the capacitors all need replacing amongst other possible fault. I've frequently had issues with Hondata S300 AND KPRO ECUs. This is not due to the Hondata chip or the car itself, it's the aging circuitry of the OEM board. Yes they can be repaired, but there are better standalone options on the market.
@@JCYT That's odd since I have never had an Ecu failure, and I've been running Neptune for many years now.
@@D5Do Just because you haven't doesn't mean you wont.
Computers age our Honda ECU isn't immune to that...
@@livelongmetal1392 No I won't.
I had it re-soldered and some components replaced before I installed it. And all for half the price of a "basic" Haltech. Including Ecu, software and some extra stuff like BT display.
Yes I know I'm basically using a brand new Honda ECU, but that's exactly my point. You gotta be smart about it.
@@D5Do Software is free lol halltech and a harness is 1200 for one of the best ECUs out there
If you’re broke just say that 🤣