Dude, this was a damn well made instructional. I literally couldn't come up with a question with a gun to my head. You made it clear as day. You should work for alldata.
It took me almost 3 days to put my car together. If same thing is to happen again, I am taking it to a mechanic. Few things that I found that may be helpful if you are trying to do it on your own 1. Both connections behind the board are shaped different from each other. If your connector isn't going in, make sure it is of right type. I wish I had known this beforehand. 2. Tube connection can also be made inside A pillar. Make sure to do it near the top or bottom because center doesn't have much room for connector to sit in. 3. If you are fishing new pipe in, make sure it goes above CJB housing. There is an opening right above it. CJB has to fit tight in its housing. 4. Try to lift CJB as high as you can, slightly turn it left or right to make room for the connector that you are trying to affix. Pull bottom wires out of the way first. 5. After locking each connector in, try to pull it lightly to make sure it is properly in. One of my outside connector was loose and truck failed to start.
Great suggestion on the push fit connectors - I've bought some and am going to retrofit. I recently completed this job on my LR4/Discovery 4 and found the CJB easier to put back in by connecting the top 2 large connectors first, which seemed to give me a little extra room to connect the rear ones. Awesome videos - wish I'd found them before I did this repair!
Great repair video! I usually break lots of plastic trying to repair something the first time. This will help me avoid that. I’ve been driving with the sunroof taped and now I’m going to repair the drain tube. After seeing the way others attempt this repair I think this is the best method. Thanks for sharing!
These two videos are excellent and very helpful, very professionally produced and easy to follow. I don't see how it would be possible to figure this out without the aid of ZipZapDIY. Thanks. Both sides of my 2006 LR3 were leaking and I followed the directions for the driver's side. But when it came to taking on the CJB everything about that scared me, so I decided that there had to be another way. That became twice a good idea when I understood how the drain detail on the passenger side was designed to work. As designed, the spout empties into the vent chamber above the wheel well and that chamber effectively has no exterior drain. How does that work? The second piece that is pulled out of the vent opening in the video is actually a large sponge that the spout empties directly into. That sponge, as conceived, holds the water until, who knows when? To the point, once the water is in the sponge it has no exit. And it is no wonder the rubber spout decays, because it is nestled into the perpetually wet sponge. I decided to fix the entire detail and in so doing, avoid touching the CJB, by cutting a 1 ½" dia. hole through the back wall of the vent chamber and then making all the push-to-connect fittings through the hole in the vent chamber (w/elbows) and in the A Pillar (straight). There is conveniently an existing hole in the top of the wheel well that fits the new spout perfectly. Way easier and less scary than dropping the CJB, AND most importantly, it fixes the faulty original design by draining the water directly to the exterior.
All good information. However, I thought I would try and flush both RH and LH lines with water and/or compressed air first. I ordered a package of five 12mm push-to connect couplers from Amazon at $12.99. I viewed Ron's video to access the vent chamber, removed the soggy sponge to the trash, drilled a 1/2" drain hole at the lowest level of the vent chamber bottom. I removed both A pillar covers to expose the drain hoses and opened the sunroof, cut both drain lines with snips in the middle between the holding clips above the dash level. I forced some water into the bottom half (both RH and LH) and it exited the vehicle as it should. ( I used a wound wash appliance from a medical supply house to force the water...do it the best way you can). I forced water into the top half from the sunroof with a towel below to catch the flow. Afterwards, I also used compressed air at the top of each halves of the lines. All was normal. Feeling confident, I reconnected both hoses using the push-to-connect couplers and prayed to God for success. I poured water from the sunroof ports and VOILA water exited the car at the exterior behind the front wheels as it should, not within the foot well yielding soggy carpet. NOTE: in my case the exit nipples had not deteriorated (no new replacement hoses needed) AND no fiddling with the CJB, central junction box!! Try this process first with only a $12.99 investment. Had this process not worked, I would've had to go back to square one with replacement lines and maybe a CJB removal experience. Good luck.
Thank you. I completed this today, it took about 3 hours with breaks from the Florida heat. Most difficult part was the rear electrical connections for sure. I replaced the drain tube and made the splice in the A-Pilar in case I had an issue down the road. Really was not difficult to thread the new tube up once you have everything remove. Thanks again
Thank you - great video. The makeshift glove box removal tool worked great. You were right about re-attaching the rear connectors. I have larger hands and it took about an hour and a half for me to finally get them locked in place. I found that pulling the bottom front wires out the front opening gave me just enough extra space to get my hand behind and work the connector into place. It wasn't a difficult job, just tedious and frustrating. The Land Rover engineers should have made the connectors about 10 inches longer so you could connect it outside of the dash and push it back in. Engineers should be required to replace all components on new cars so they can experience the difficulty of some of their decisions! My boot was rotted out and full of sludge and I'm confident this will eliminate the water issue I was having. Cheers!
Hi thanks for the great video, which was very helpful in doing this job. I considered using the pipe connector but in practice it was only 30 mins more work to part drop the headliner and use the old hose as a draw line to pull up the new hose. The worst bit of the job is the CJB which takes a lot of fiddling and careful manipulation of nearby cable looms. Regards Mike
All good information from Ron. However, I thought I would try and flush both RH and LH lines with water and/or compressed air first. I ordered a package of five 12mm push-to connect couplers from Amazon at $12.99. I viewed Ron's video to access the vent chamber, removed the soggy sponge to the trash, drilled a 1/2" drain hole at the lowest level of the vent chamber bottom. I removed both A pillar covers to expose the drain hoses and opened the sunroof, cut both drain lines with snips in the middle between the holding clips above the dash level. I forced some water into the bottom half (both RH and LH) and it exited the vehicle as it should. ( I used a wound wash appliance from a medical supply house to force the water...do it the best way you can). I forced water into the top half from the sunroof with a towel below to catch the flow. Afterwards, I also used compressed air at the top of each halves of the lines. All was normal. Feeling confident, I reconnected both hoses using the push-to-connect couplers and prayed to God for success. I poured water from the sunroof ports and VOILA water exited the car at the exterior behind the front wheels as it should, not within the foot well yielding soggy carpet. NOTE: in my case the exit nipples had not deteriorated (no new replacement hoses needed) AND no fiddling with the CJB, central junction box!! Try this process first with only a $12.99 investment. Had this process not worked, I would've had to go back to square one with replacement lines and maybe a CJB removal experience. Good luck.
I had this problem with my LR3 recently. I pulled out the outside vent, removed the foam piece and threw it away. The drain was decayed but I was able to use some needle nose pliers and pull the tube through again. Not wanting to remove all the stuff inside. Worked perfect.
That is very interesting, so you pulled the tube sans nipple out the hole. That is great, anything to avoid messing with the CJB, did you secure it or seal it? I see a risk of backing out of the hole?
the nipple was completely decayed but there was a bit of rubber at the end of the hose and it held it in perfect. Lucky! Also, the wires in the corner of there floor board were very wet, 2 wires completely corroded. I cleaned it all up and reconnected the wires. My auto headlights work again and the sunroof. Took a good 2 weeks for the carpets to dry out, even folded back for airflow.
@@jeremyacevedo6592 Not sure what the foam is actually there for, perhaps sound insulation? All I know is that I removed it and everything worked great.
Thanks- pain of a job! I used a 90 degree garden irrigation hose connector with tape and sealant. I have a right hand drive vehicle and leak was on left of the vehicle. In mine the CJB is on the left, a mirror image of your setup. I also had problems with central locking, likely related to the water: it’s worth digging out the white and green wires in the trough running along the floor where all the water has collected and resolder the connection....I’ve also had battery problems I think related to all the wet wiring. Thanks again
Were the white and green door lock wires on the drivers or passenger side? How far up or back in the trough in relation to the front or rear doors, or front kick panels?
Did the repair on my 05 LR3 The pain is now forgot, but those damn electrical connectors on the back side of the control board are an absolute nightmare to put on without the hands of an 8 year old child. Very little space. Thanks for the video though. Got 'er done.
Just finished doing the passenger side drain with the help of this superb video. Two great tips from comments below were that you can remove the split elbow from pipe and replace it with the one from the new official part, all without needing a push fit connector, and to refit the top two front connectors before doing the two on the rear. Overall the job was fiddly but very doable. Mine is a 2015 car and had different connectors to those in the video. Three on the from, two on the back and two on the bottom edge of the board. Official JLR part was £20 so cheap enough.
Good video but a lot of work. I just unclogged my LR4 sunroof drain hose with a tie wrap and it flows really well now :).. try this first and rinse up top one cup of water at a time to confirm water flowing. Much simpler :).. Now on my friends LR4 it was clogged with tiny leaves and dirt midway so we just attached a hose on the nipple at the side vents and ran the extension rubber hose to a bucket of water and then up top we used a wet n dry vacuum ( taped it to seal at the OeM hose where it connects at the the sunroof drain rail) and sucked backwards and the dirt cleared and for good measure we used the tie wrap method to clear the nipple side from the accumulated dirt. :) Side vent and A pillar sun visor and Seat belt trim is all we took out to get to the drain rail. Hope this helps :)..
I may be mistaken but the new nipple you were testing wasn't pushed all the way into the hole. The integral grommet is intended to lock and seal the nipple in that hole. A little dishwashing soap is helpful to get it in. You'll get leaks again after some jostling around because it isn't secured well. Also, there is enough room on the A pillar to make a connection of old to new tube but I don't think that tubing is rigid enough for a proper seal with the push fitting. I did the rear drain lines with a short piece of 1/2 inch pex pipe. A little heat and slight swage with a small socket and then insert the black drain line while warm. As it cools it shrinks to make a tight and compact connection. Just sayin'
Hoping no one makes the mistake I just made today. I automatically assumed that because the floor board was a swimming pool (both sides) that he drain hoses were broken. I bought the car 15 days ago so not familiar with it it. After going through HELL AND BACK to reconnect the 2 connectors behind the fuse box (green and red) the hoses on both sides of car had been replaced. I did clean the heck out of every connection with electronic cleaner and a toothbrush and apply dielectric grease to the outside part of the connectors. All that to see that the water was coming in at the top of the sunroof. I am now assuming that the drain holes are plugged up but called it a night already. By the way, if you wanted to replaced the entire line you don't have to take the entire headliner off. It will lean down enough that you can insert a new hose on the sunroof nipple. I will update tomorrow.
i am going through hell now. any tips on getting rear connectors back in? a tool maybe or did u just use your hands. my arm is tired and i still dont have it in.
@@FabianCharrua okay i have been at it for the past 2 hours - walking away, exactly as you explained- one thing i can add is lock rear clips up - slide in and pull down. I also removed the 5 relays and pulled back any wire in way and tied off. I just got the rear clips in... taking a break and doing the other 4, what a pain in the neck..(or back as the seat digs into your back!!)
Hi Thanks for the video. Managed to do exactly as you said. Needed daughter’s small hands to refit the 2 back plugs though. Very helpful and money saving!
Thank you for the helpful information! In front of the drain spout in the vent chamber, there is a sponge like piece; would it be fine to discard it? What’s the purpose of it anyway?
Thank you very much for your vey helpful video. As it was very intense to do as you stated but we did it! Both sides all by ourselves. So far so good. Yes! It was a pain in the butt but it can be done... and we don’t know much about fixing cars. It only cost us $8.49 from Home Depot in the garden department for the tubing instead of paying the dealer.
Fantastic - I was able to unblock the pipe from the air vent end, remove air vent with sharp pull, remove rubber bits - locate end of pipe, its inside top left and then insert strimmer cord until the gunk and water comes out - job done..
I thanks for this. I've banged to do the fox fix, but rather than cut and splice, I just pulled the nipples off the end of the tubes, and put the new nipple on the existing tube. +1 about those rear connectors being a real PITA though!
Never heard back from you. I have numbers now. The C584 is for the orange male rear plug right.? My question is right next to C584 you have C586; is C586 were the green rear male plug plugs in to.? Because just below C586 you have C587.
Good afternoon from the great state of SC. I'M working on the CJB now and I didn't take a picture of the back of the CJB prior to disconnect. But If you have the CJB in front of you to the rear right there's a male orange plug thats top right ;right)but to the left there is a green male rear plug on the left, there are two female plugs one on top of each other. Which two female plugs is it.(top just across from the orange or bottom left?
I too have this issue. Another TH-camr does the repair via the A pillar. I wonder, could the drain hole in the fender be enlarged a little and the new hose taped to the old then fished up to the A pillar and push fitted there. A dab of silicone should make the fender fitting waterproof. Is this crazy talk?
Hey! for that, you'd need to drop the headliner on that corner, remove the a-pillar cover, drill a very large hole in the inner fender, somehow get tape around the end of the old tube which will be dangling well inside the back of the dash and then drag the new tube through a tight and restricted pathway.... no thanks! someone did this?
2015 Disco 4 ---Just changed mine. Fuse box would be a lot easier if the short cable going to the back was the same length as the other. anyway done now. I made the drain joint above the dash plenty of space behind the A pillar cover. Thanks for the info very helpful
Thanks for the tip. Mine on my Range Rover Sport was clogged. I just opened the roof, got on top and saw that a few little leaves and other stuff had clogged the drains from the top. Hoovered them and there ya go ! Otherwise there could be another simple way to do it : Compressed air from the drain pipe at the bottom !
THANK YOU. I was going insane thinking that it'd be a pain to remove the CJB. My first Rover but I've owned multiple X5s and many other bmws and the rover is my least favorite to work on lol.
Thanks for the video. I got my front windshield replace and I notice some water leaking when it rains by the same spot you showed on your video. How I can fix that. I’m afraid water might get into the fuse box and damage something
I hope this video helps you to repair the sunroof drain and gives some insight on replacing the CJB on the LR3. I almost didn't publish it because of some quality issues and I forgot to mention some things (read the subtitles) I suggest you watch my other video on the sunroof drain repair since it is thorough: th-cam.com/video/16x02kh7IAg/w-d-xo.html and watch my Glove box removal video as well since it goes in depth: th-cam.com/video/e-2JOgx2YeM/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for the video! Super useful you saved me! I have done the driver side which was much easier. The conector on the back are truly terrible! But overall I was able to do it! Once again thanks!
Thank you for you video. Both my left and right drain lines nipple have disintegrated just as you shown in picture. I did not use the blue couple but I just cut existing old nipple. Then on the new type nipple plug it in using some silicone, Tested it and no leak inside. I did not have a leak but I did it for peace of mind. It is kind of strange that I had no signs of leak from the past. I just got my LR3 1 week ago. This is a must procedure. The rear connectors for the CJB is tough to install. I finally got the technique down is to lower the CJB slightly to have the best access to the rear.
My recently purchased '06 LR3 has soaked carpets from long term leaking of those drains. Haven't yet set up my recently purchased Gap tool. But I'm getting many strange reports on my dash screen, which may or may not be related to wet and shorting connections. Pulled the 5 seats yesterday and lifted the carpeting to find wire chases filled with water! The foam backing is dense so I know it will be a while before it dries.But don't have much of a choice. There are electrical fittings and flex conduit called "water tight"... Which have sealing solvent similar to PVC products and connector fittings which are designed to be water tight with O rings and threaded connections. The hole through which your hose protrudes is sharp edged and I'd be concerned about the loose fitting bouncing around and wearing through the plastic. At the very least I'd install a rubber grommet in that hole. A threaded and well secured connector will give peace of mind in the long run. In my humble opinion. Thanks, subbed...
Got any tips on reconnecting the back connectors? I can feel the red one slip into the slot, but my fingers can't pull down the lever. This is so maddening!
Hi thank u for your video. Mine lr3 only on passenger side. I m know nothing about fixing car . But want to save money. Would ube able help or write. a instruction please?
Thank you for the video. The back connector I managed to secure by connecting a piece of string to the latch. Once the connector was in place, with one hand I was holding it in place and other pulled on a string which in result pulled the latch down and secure the connector. Hope it helps.
GREAT VIDEO...HOWEVER Is there any trick to remove the CJB and slide it under the glove box support? It doesn't appear there is enough room .....Did you removed the carpet???
Your best bet is to seal the sunroof with silicone like I did. I replaced the tubes 3 times as they always fail, either clogged or crack. Landrover quality will even be worse now that they are owned by India and China (Tata and Chery Motors). What a sad ending for a brand that's been bounced around like a racket ball. So sad. I have many repair videos on my channel due to al the problems in the past...even a detailed repair of the sunroof drains with the headliner removed.
Im begging for help... Any advice onto putting the cjb back in? I quite literally cannot get the cjb to even go high enough to reach the bolts to put the nuts over. I just seems like its constantly hitting something. If you have any help, please let me know. In regards, Jack.
thanks for the video! However, I have a 2016 LR4 HSE Lux. Is it similar to the LR3? I've tried to find the draining holes on the sunroof tray but I can't find them. If it is the same as the LR3, I will give it a try. Whom ever designed the draining system was smoking some bad weed. LR4 ride nice until something simple goes wrong and you end up dismantling half of the interior to fix it. @ $200 per hour in the shop, it can get costly. Thanks again!
Not sure about the LR4, my guess is it similar. They were def smoking and sharing it with the materials engineer who picked out that disintegrating rubber nipple...
Just finished mine. But my Rover stuck half way park in my garage and it wouldn’t start. It left with lights n sensor fault all over the dash with a E on my gear indicator. Don’t know what happen. But those CJB are a pain in the butt. Harder to put back then to remove.10/17/2021 found out one of the back plug was not properly plug back on must’ve flip the release flap while trying to shove the CJB back up there. Everything works fine and got to clean the TCM behind the battery. Thought that was the issue because it was corroded.
QUICK FIX WITHOUT REMOVING JUNCKTION BOX (15-20 min work. You need a 2nd person for part of the job) Thanx for your video, but was glad with knowledge that with removing the window airbag cover between windshield and front door you can easy retract the tube above dashboard without taking junction box out. That airbag cover comes lose with 1 torch crew behind the plastic airbag sign that you need to pop off. Its easy. I pulled up old tube, tried to put a pulling wire over the old tube first from the ventilation cover but i could not (if you can get a wire over that would be a good thing to do as then you have a guiding wire) so i just pulled it up towards the window inside and above dashboard.. If the end plug is still partly usable it perfect to use as a connector between new and old hose. i could cut of dried out part and still use most of the rest. You can also use connector inside size 8mm outside 12mm Pushing down a new tube from dashboard towards the exhaust hole did not work well. It got stuck in all wires. I start pushing a electricity wire with solid copper core down. You can steer this kind of wire a bit..Its stiff. Had to do it with 2nd person so one pushes the other one lookes in the hole. Was very quick that wire was in front of the hole. Pulled wire out with a tool. Then duck tape the electra wire inside a new tube that you enter from the ventilation hole side and push up, the other person pulls softly on electra wire from inside until new tube is above dashboard. The tube of a outboard engine gashose (Inside 8 mm outside 12MM) is same diameter. I used the not dried out part of the old chassis piece to connect both hoses and tightened them with hose clamps . There is enough space to work the hose and claps behind the airbag cover. You have to cut the old hose so the whole is connected just above dashboard hole going down. Took me 15 minutes and gladly had not to remover juctionbox! Was very happy it worked as removing the junction box can be really a pain, and if you need something you can not use the car whilst doing it.
On drivers side its much more simple as with removing the dashboard plate directly under the wheel (poppes off when you pull it) and the bottom dashboard plate. Then you can work with 2 hands making an extension on the tube and push it out again. On pessenger side there is the fuse box which prefends you to get at point where you need to work.
Sounds like an easier way to do it. I can't really understand much after you pop off the airbag cover, wish you'd made a video. I'd really like to try this method.
Thanks so much for sharing this. Is there any chance you have insight on other leak issues? I can't tell if the drain is corroded inside, but I previously fixed a leak with the simple nozzle unclog pinch once I'd found it. This time it's not the solution. I have water through the drain. But where should the water go once it leaves the drain? It appears to flood the passenger floor from there. Has something else failed?Also inside the frame below the drain outlet there's a bag that appears flooded. No idea what the bag is or how water could be in there. Any suggestions?
Do you know if these steps are similar to that on a 2012 LR4? I have the same problem on my LR4 which I origiinally thought was my A/C drain tube being clogged but I think it's the sunroof. Great video!!!
Awesome video, I have a 2006 LR3 and just noticed water on the passenger flood board. Our sunroof stopped working 6 months ago due to the drainage cloth and we haven’t been able to fix yet. The dealer estimates over $1000 to fix that. Do you know how to fix the sunroof drainage and sunroof or know of and video on TH-cam, thanks
Great video! Although after everything was put back together my driver side window and backseat driver side window are stuck in the down position with no mobility. Do you think that could have been from the connection process of the junction box. Looks like the ECU is fine. Just seeing if there were any issues for you like this?
How does the connector on the bottom of the CJB come off? I want to avoid brute force in the removal but I’m getting to that stage of frustration. Thanks!
My LR3 is leaking on the driver side. Aside from water on the floorboards, some actual leaking thru the ceiling of the truck between the skylight and top of windshield.
Those are classic symptoms of a clogged sunroof drain line. To clear the drain line, open the sunroof use some edge trimmer line to push down the drain line, (holes are towards the front of the sunroof opening) pour water as you do and it will clear out.
Hi..thank you for this great video.This passager side leak has happened to our 2006 twice before and iI saw yesterday during a torrential rain some water getting in at air bag cover on Window rail and down at bottom under glove box. A new drain was put in by dealer about 4 years ago..could the end of drain have disintegrated in such a short time? Is it possible drain is clogged ? Thanks again.
4 years seems too short for the nipple failure, and if you have water on the airbag cover, you probably have a clogged drain line, you can use edge trimmer line to chase the line to clear the clog, be careful, don't poke thru the rubber nipple at the bottom, the drain intake holes are located on the front corners of the sunroof, you need to open the sunroof and may need to push down the wind deflector to access them
Zip Zap i did this repair and didn't see your posts about cleaning all the connections with contact cleaner. Those back plugs are a real pain. After putting it back together my front windows don't work, and the truck thinks all the doors are open. So the suspension will not raise or lower. Any ideas which plug it might be? I hate to tear it back apart but it has to be fixed.
sorry, no clue which connector, time to break out the wiring diagram. :( or start with the accessible ones.. and see what happens.. I'd inspect the pins and fuses too
I've been struggling to get the bottom connector(green one unplugged). Is there a locking mechanism or does it just take some wiggling? I've been at this for longer than I care to admit. Thanks for the video
no locking mechanism, just a simple push down a tab and pull off, You might be able to use a flat blade screwdriver to help you pry it down? ? I feel for you, this is not a fun repair.
I performed this today and it worked, but I "DID NOT" remove the rear CJB connections, but did disconnect the battery. That said, after getting all the CJB electrical reconnected and starting the truck, several warning messages. - Fuel Level Low Warning and Dash Indicator @ "0" - All doors open when closed - Height Change disabled due to erroneous - all doors open warning - Brake pads worn w/ plenty left Anyone else experience anything like this? Is any of the wiring for these in the CJB connections on the front or bottom, that may have been affected? Or am I looking at a re-programming issue? Appreciate any feedback
It appears that the water does not directly flow onto the CJB but it does flow onto the wiring harnesses. If left unresolved, the moisture in the area of the CJB will cause problems. ( I did not experience any electrical problems and noticed only minimal corrosion, but I taped up the sunroof as soon as we noticed the problem to minimize the issues)
Followed the directions......no leaks....but developed warnings the doors are open - but they are not , the door on back is Open- and its not, unlock the doors and they stay locked, interior lights stay on , Sunroof will not close or open. WHAT A NIGHTMARE!!!! I would take the leak......in trade for all these problems!!!!! Now what? Any suggestions? Would a new CJB be the answer?
@@shanegibbs4248 mine did the same thing! It’s your orange plug in the back. Mine wasn’t seated properly. If you can see the little red tab, it’s not in far enough.
I was able to just swap out the ends of the lines, no need to cut and splice. Your mileage may vary based on differences in years, but I was able to do it on my ‘06.
I'm thinking of doing the same, replacing just the end piece. Do you have any advice or steps to follow after you have freed the tubing from the hole in the fender?
Hi, I just bought an 06 lr3 with out a sunroof. My question is...could this issue happen as well with out sunroof? I've been reading online and it seems that my "volume knob" doesn't work due to a faulty wire that could possibly be wet from a faulty drain tube... Any ideas / suggestions before I take it into the shop ? I've removed the glove box and fiddle in there but didn't feel anything wet.
There are two ways water gets in there.. the sunroof drain and the air intake for hvac… if you don't have a sunroof, no leak there... inspect your windshield cowl on passenger side, if it is warped, it will allow water into the fresh air intake for the a/c system. I've made a video th-cam.com/video/k3lbCPb65Bs/w-d-xo.html
Yes, the LH side is very easy so if you need to do the RH side, I would do the LH side first to get in the mood and a feel for what is going on down there.
ZipZapDIY thanks for the response. One more quick question: I see that the drain tube for the Range Rover Sport (EEH500120) is less than half the price as the one you listed. Do you have any idea, since the hose is getting cut anyway, if that will work in place? I'm assuming the grommet size is the same, but the length is different... If you have any insight on this, it would be appreciated.
You must be talking about replacing the windshield cowling.. th-cam.com/video/k3lbCPb65Bs/w-d-xo.html I was amazed to see the fresh air intake is right underneath the edge of the windshield and perfectly placed to catch all the water that gets under the warped cowling!
i'm having same problem but my hazard lights are flashing and i have problems starting at times ... do i need a new CJB? or should i just clean connections
hi Timothy did you ever get to the bottom of what the fault was my hazards are flashing and not attempting to start at times aswell as the doors locking and unlocking thankyou
My LR3 started to get water under the ceiling and flowing on each corner of the sunroof (when turning) and thru reading light. Now water comes down thru the black mesh part that comes around the doors. Any idea where is the water coming from??
Your drain lines may be clogged, the water is backing up and overflowing out of the sunroof "tray". You can confirm the drain Is clogged by pouring water down the drain holes at the front corners of the sunroof. There are a few methods to clean the drains, one is to blow air through them, another is to take edge trimmer wire and poke the dirt out.
ZipZapDIY I just did what you said and it worked!!!! Water came out on both sides next to the front tires. Now I'm going to dry the carpets and see if it's OK when raining. Thanks. 06LR3 from Poland.
The two plugs on the back of the CJU were very difficult to reattach. I spent six hours and both were equally hard. Use a mirror and when you can not see a red tab on the green one, it is in. Pull the lever down and you're done. The car will not crank and an E message for the gears will appear if the green connector on the back is not in. My hands are medium sized for this tight job. I am not sure a young person, as mentioned in a response could have done this for me. It is super tedious. I did all this and did not replace the hose. All that was needed was to pinch the nipple in the air intake compartment. Water shot out when pouring it in the sun roof.
I removed the air dam on the passenger side and the nipple is still protruding from the open space but i am still getting water in the floor board. Anything else to check?
check for a warped windshield cowling on passenger side. The fresh air intake is there and a warped cowling will allow water in to it and on to the floor board.
@@ZipZapDIY thank you very much. Checked the air dam this morning and it certainly had a small gap in it so i will be replacing it. Thank you a ton for that suggestion!
if you didn't; see it already... here is my video on the windshield cowling th-cam.com/video/k3lbCPb65Bs/w-d-xo.html in it you can see the vulnerable fresh air intake scoop.
my LR3 2006 is stuck in phone mode and I tried everything but the issue is still there.... could that be the cause of the problem? and have you ever came across such issue?and what's the solution? thanks
maybe a sticky phone button? Our radio has a hyper sensitive aux button, if you look at it wrong it jumps to aux input, could it be that your phone button is doing the same as our aux button?
ZipZapDIY I'm pretty sure all buttons are ok & did my research online about the issue and did all suggested action but still... I'm left with checking all wiring ☻💔 thanks for your video it helps a lot my man 👍 keep up the good work
this is not known to cause "lots of lights"... it could, but unlikely...... check your brake light bulbs and brake light switch. The most lights I've seen light up are associated with a bad brake light switch.. also the suspension system controls went dark.
Let me make this job MUCH EASIER for all who want to do this... 1) DO NOT mess with the CJB (unless you are already having weird electrical, water related, issues and need to clean it with contact cleaner). 2) Pull down a partial part of the headliner on the passenger side--> Take out screws for the oh shit handle, sun visor, and pull to release center clips above center, overhead light. 3) Pull out external air intake cover and appropriate parts to expose the nipple exit hole (as seen in this video). 4) Push nipple back into car (DO NOT PULL IT OUT). 5) Use a quarter sized ($.25) metal hole cutter with drill (aprox.1-1/8") not too big....and cut a hole around the nipple hole. Yes, you are drilling though metal. 6) Disconnect the hose from the sunroof drain (headliner is partially pulled down so this is easy at this point). 7) Now the hose is more accessible because of the hole you drilled where the nipple drains. -->Pull nipple end of hose then push down hose from sunroof, pull nipple end, then push down, and so on and so fourth. (****CAUTION you only need about two inches of hose to work with so do not not pull too much through***) 8) Replace the joint and then push hose back to where it was with the lip of the nipple resting on the edge of the cut. You do not need to silicone or secure the hose- it will rest fine on the edge. Further, you can get rid of that pice of foam that separates the nipple from the rubber air intake if you want- it doesn't serve much purpose at this point in the vehicle's life. -->job done. Time...30 min - 1 hour. No stress.
Update: Cleaned off the drain holes on each side of sunroof and no more leaks!! Carpet is incredibly saturated so it will take days for it to dry. BTW, If anyone knows the exact location or color of the wire that corrodes and breaks on the Right side door sill somewhere that powers the remote locking antenna I would appreciate sharing it.
The wire is located on right side, under the door sill about 2 inches in front of the seat mounting. the wire is blue with white stripe, there will be two wires with splices on them in the wiring harness, the target is the one with smaller wires. You will need to remove the screws that hold down the seat and then elevate the seat to remove the door sill and door sill cover. (one is over the carpet, the other is under the carpet.)
By any chance does the seat tilt back if you remove just the front screws that hold the seat or do you have to take out all 4?. Thank you kindly for your tips!!. I am learning a whole "new" car so its going to be a process to say the least. Off topic but have you heard of BRITPART.COM? They're over in England and I'm trying to buy a tool that can program a key (as well as do OBD) and they have some pretty good stuff. I just don't know if they have a model that does and 05 LR3. I did write to them from their web page to ask them but haven't heard back yet.
all 5 screws need to come out, parts of the sill cover under the carpet are under the seat and very difficult if not impossible to remove without the seat lifted up fully.. I don't think I've used britpart for anything, I might have but not sure..
Did the seat tonight (first car ever with 5 bolts :-) and yes just like you said 2 different wires spliced and electrical tape around them about 2 inches parallel to the the mounting bolt. The bigger had 2 wires on it and it was red and black but the little one was green and white (or tan depending on your sight). I wonder if that was just the flavor of the day at the factory or if I got the wrong wires but there were no other wires spliced in that big wad of cables. I still cut it and plan to solder it together. What's your take on the green/white?
Dude, this was a damn well made instructional. I literally couldn't come up with a question with a gun to my head. You made it clear as day. You should work for alldata.
It took me almost 3 days to put my car together. If same thing is to happen again, I am taking it to a mechanic. Few things that I found that may be helpful if you are trying to do it on your own
1. Both connections behind the board are shaped different from each other. If your connector isn't going in, make sure it is of right type. I wish I had known this beforehand.
2. Tube connection can also be made inside A pillar. Make sure to do it near the top or bottom because center doesn't have much room for connector to sit in.
3. If you are fishing new pipe in, make sure it goes above CJB housing. There is an opening right above it. CJB has to fit tight in its housing.
4. Try to lift CJB as high as you can, slightly turn it left or right to make room for the connector that you are trying to affix. Pull bottom wires out of the way first.
5. After locking each connector in, try to pull it lightly to make sure it is properly in. One of my outside connector was loose and truck failed to start.
Great suggestion on the push fit connectors - I've bought some and am going to retrofit. I recently completed this job on my LR4/Discovery 4 and found the CJB easier to put back in by connecting the top 2 large connectors first, which seemed to give me a little extra room to connect the rear ones. Awesome videos - wish I'd found them before I did this repair!
You don’t know how much your suggestion just helped me brotha. 😂
Great repair video! I usually break lots of plastic trying to repair something the first time. This will help me avoid that. I’ve been driving with the sunroof taped and now I’m going to repair the drain tube. After seeing the way others attempt this repair I think this is the best method. Thanks for sharing!
These two videos are excellent and very helpful, very professionally produced and easy to follow. I don't see how it would be possible to figure this out without the aid of ZipZapDIY. Thanks. Both sides of my 2006 LR3 were leaking and I followed the directions for the driver's side. But when it came to taking on the CJB everything about that scared me, so I decided that there had to be another way. That became twice a good idea when I understood how the drain detail on the passenger side was designed to work. As designed, the spout empties into the vent chamber above the wheel well and that chamber effectively has no exterior drain. How does that work? The second piece that is pulled out of the vent opening in the video is actually a large sponge that the spout empties directly into. That sponge, as conceived, holds the water until, who knows when? To the point, once the water is in the sponge it has no exit. And it is no wonder the rubber spout decays, because it is nestled into the perpetually wet sponge. I decided to fix the entire detail and in so doing, avoid touching the CJB, by cutting a 1 ½" dia. hole through the back wall of the vent chamber and then making all the push-to-connect fittings through the hole in the vent chamber (w/elbows) and in the A Pillar (straight). There is conveniently an existing hole in the top of the wheel well that fits the new spout perfectly. Way easier and less scary than dropping the CJB, AND most importantly, it fixes the faulty original design by draining the water directly to the exterior.
All good information. However, I thought I would try and flush both RH and LH lines with water and/or compressed air first. I ordered a package of five 12mm push-to connect couplers from Amazon at $12.99. I viewed Ron's video to access the vent chamber, removed the soggy sponge to the trash, drilled a 1/2" drain hole at the lowest level of the vent chamber bottom. I removed both A pillar covers to expose the drain hoses and opened the sunroof, cut both drain lines with snips in the middle between the holding clips above the dash level. I forced some water into the bottom half (both RH and LH) and it exited the vehicle as it should. ( I used a wound wash appliance from a medical supply house to force the water...do it the best way you can). I forced water into the top half from the sunroof with a towel below to catch the flow. Afterwards, I also used compressed air at the top of each halves of the lines. All was normal. Feeling confident, I reconnected both hoses using the push-to-connect couplers and prayed to God for success. I poured water from the sunroof ports and VOILA water exited the car at the exterior behind the front wheels as it should, not within the foot well yielding soggy carpet. NOTE: in my case the exit nipples had not deteriorated (no new replacement hoses needed) AND no fiddling with the CJB, central junction box!! Try this process first with only a $12.99 investment. Had this process not worked, I would've had to go back to square one with replacement lines and maybe a CJB removal experience. Good luck.
I'm am doing this right now on my 08 RRS and your video is an absolute lifesaver. Thank you!
Thank you. I completed this today, it took about 3 hours with breaks from the Florida heat. Most difficult part was the rear electrical connections for sure. I replaced the drain tube and made the splice in the A-Pilar in case I had an issue down the road. Really was not difficult to thread the new tube up once you have everything remove. Thanks again
Thank you - great video. The makeshift glove box removal tool worked great. You were right about re-attaching the rear connectors. I have larger hands and it took about an hour and a half for me to finally get them locked in place. I found that pulling the bottom front wires out the front opening gave me just enough extra space to get my hand behind and work the connector into place. It wasn't a difficult job, just tedious and frustrating. The Land Rover engineers should have made the connectors about 10 inches longer so you could connect it outside of the dash and push it back in. Engineers should be required to replace all components on new cars so they can experience the difficulty of some of their decisions! My boot was rotted out and full of sludge and I'm confident this will eliminate the water issue I was having. Cheers!
Do you remember these two connectors on the back brown and green, which one go left and which right?
Holy cow getting that CJB back on almost ruined me! BUT, saved about $600 that my mechanic quoted. Thank you!
you're welcome, yes putting it back together is one of the hardest things I've done on a car. congrats on your success!
@@ZipZapDIY lol- great- still trying to get it in.
Hi thanks for the great video, which was very helpful in doing this job. I considered using the pipe connector but in practice it was only 30 mins more work to part drop the headliner and use the old hose as a draw line to pull up the new hose. The worst bit of the job is the CJB which takes a lot of fiddling and careful manipulation of nearby cable looms. Regards Mike
All good information from Ron. However, I thought I would try and flush both RH and LH lines with water and/or compressed air first. I ordered a package of five 12mm push-to connect couplers from Amazon at $12.99. I viewed Ron's video to access the vent chamber, removed the soggy sponge to the trash, drilled a 1/2" drain hole at the lowest level of the vent chamber bottom. I removed both A pillar covers to expose the drain hoses and opened the sunroof, cut both drain lines with snips in the middle between the holding clips above the dash level. I forced some water into the bottom half (both RH and LH) and it exited the vehicle as it should. ( I used a wound wash appliance from a medical supply house to force the water...do it the best way you can). I forced water into the top half from the sunroof with a towel below to catch the flow. Afterwards, I also used compressed air at the top of each halves of the lines. All was normal. Feeling confident, I reconnected both hoses using the push-to-connect couplers and prayed to God for success. I poured water from the sunroof ports and VOILA water exited the car at the exterior behind the front wheels as it should, not within the foot well yielding soggy carpet. NOTE: in my case the exit nipples had not deteriorated (no new replacement hoses needed) AND no fiddling with the CJB, central junction box!! Try this process first with only a $12.99 investment. Had this process not worked, I would've had to go back to square one with replacement lines and maybe a CJB removal experience. Good luck.
I had this problem with my LR3 recently. I pulled out the outside vent, removed the foam piece and threw it away. The drain was decayed but I was able to use some needle nose pliers and pull the tube through again. Not wanting to remove all the stuff inside. Worked perfect.
That is very interesting, so you pulled the tube sans nipple out the hole. That is great, anything to avoid messing with the CJB, did you secure it or seal it? I see a risk of backing out of the hole?
the nipple was completely decayed but there was a bit of rubber at the end of the hose and it held it in perfect. Lucky! Also, the wires in the corner of there floor board were very wet, 2 wires completely corroded. I cleaned it all up and reconnected the wires. My auto headlights work again and the sunroof. Took a good 2 weeks for the carpets to dry out, even folded back for airflow.
What does that foam piece do exactly anyway? It looks to me like it would block the flow of water.
@@jeremyacevedo6592 Not sure what the foam is actually there for, perhaps sound insulation? All I know is that I removed it and everything worked great.
Hi how you did? I have the same problem and no idea how to solve this problem. Can u give me a instruction please?
Thanks- pain of a job! I used a 90 degree garden irrigation hose connector with tape and sealant. I have a right hand drive vehicle and leak was on left of the vehicle. In mine the CJB is on the left, a mirror image of your setup. I also had problems with central locking, likely related to the water: it’s worth digging out the white and green wires in the trough running along the floor where all the water has collected and resolder the connection....I’ve also had battery problems I think related to all the wet wiring.
Thanks again
Were the white and green door lock wires on the drivers or passenger side? How far up or back in the trough in relation to the front or rear doors, or front kick panels?
Did the repair on my 05 LR3 The pain is now forgot, but those damn electrical connectors on the back side of the control board are an absolute nightmare to put on without the hands of an 8 year old child. Very little space. Thanks for the video though. Got 'er done.
Just finished doing the passenger side drain with the help of this superb video. Two great tips from comments below were that you can remove the split elbow from pipe and replace it with the one from the new official part, all without needing a push fit connector, and to refit the top two front connectors before doing the two on the rear. Overall the job was fiddly but very doable. Mine is a 2015 car and had different connectors to those in the video. Three on the from, two on the back and two on the bottom edge of the board. Official JLR part was £20 so cheap enough.
Good video but a lot of work. I just unclogged my LR4 sunroof drain hose with a tie wrap and it flows really well now :).. try this first and rinse up top one cup of water at a time to confirm water flowing. Much simpler :)..
Now on my friends LR4 it was clogged with tiny leaves and dirt midway so we just attached a hose on the nipple at the side vents and ran the extension rubber hose to a bucket of water and then up top we used a wet n dry vacuum ( taped it to seal at the OeM hose where it connects at the the sunroof drain rail) and sucked backwards and the dirt cleared and for good measure we used the tie wrap method to clear the nipple side from the accumulated dirt. :) Side vent and A pillar sun visor and Seat belt trim is all we took out to get to the drain rail.
Hope this helps :)..
I may be mistaken but the new nipple you were testing wasn't pushed all the way into
the hole. The integral grommet is intended to lock and seal the nipple in that hole. A little
dishwashing soap is helpful to get it in. You'll get leaks again after some jostling around
because it isn't secured well. Also, there is enough room on the A pillar to make a connection of old to new tube but I don't think that tubing is rigid enough for a proper
seal with the push fitting. I did the rear drain lines with a short piece of 1/2 inch pex pipe.
A little heat and slight swage with a small socket and then insert the black drain line while warm. As it cools it shrinks to make a tight and compact connection. Just sayin'
Nice summary description of the problem at the start. I like the listing of tools needed before starting the job and the retro fix for the issue.
Wouldve been great to get an idea on how tf you got the back side connectors into the cjb
Hoping no one makes the mistake I just made today. I automatically assumed that because the floor board was a swimming pool (both sides) that he drain hoses were broken. I bought the car 15 days ago so not familiar with it it. After going through HELL AND BACK to reconnect the 2 connectors behind the fuse box (green and red) the hoses on both sides of car had been replaced. I did clean the heck out of every connection with electronic cleaner and a toothbrush and apply dielectric grease to the outside part of the connectors. All that to see that the water was coming in at the top of the sunroof. I am now assuming that the drain holes are plugged up but called it a night already. By the way, if you wanted to replaced the entire line you don't have to take the entire headliner off. It will lean down enough that you can insert a new hose on the sunroof nipple. I will update tomorrow.
i am going through hell now. any tips on getting rear connectors back in? a tool maybe or did u just use your hands. my arm is tired and i still dont have it in.
It is s a royal pain but I just used my hands. You have to walk way and come back later otherwise frustration sets in
@@FabianCharrua okay i have been at it for the past 2 hours - walking away, exactly as you explained- one thing i can add is lock rear clips up - slide in and pull down. I also removed the 5 relays and pulled back any wire in way and tied off. I just got the rear clips in... taking a break and doing the other 4, what a pain in the neck..(or back as the seat digs into your back!!)
I did put dielectric grease on the end so it would slide better
Oh boy. I really feel The Dread for you guys. Wonder what it would cost to have someone else do it
Hi
Thanks for the video. Managed to do exactly as you said. Needed daughter’s small hands to refit the 2 back plugs though. Very helpful and money saving!
I can not get the plugs back on in the back....need smaller hands
No one could figure it out. Thanks so much for this video!!!
Thank you for the helpful information! In front of the drain spout in the vent chamber, there is a sponge like piece; would it be fine to discard it? What’s the purpose of it anyway?
Thank you very much for your vey helpful video. As it was very intense to do as you stated but we did it! Both sides all by ourselves. So far so good. Yes! It was a pain in the butt but it can be done... and we don’t know much about fixing cars.
It only cost us $8.49 from Home Depot in the garden department for the tubing instead of paying the dealer.
Nice! I'm impressed, that cjb side is not fun.
Very useful video
Didn’t took the glovebox out tho
It would’ve made my life easier but if you’re patient enough you can get it done
Fantastic - I was able to unblock the pipe from the air vent end, remove air vent with sharp pull, remove rubber bits - locate end of pipe, its inside top left and then insert strimmer cord until the gunk and water comes out - job done..
Thanks for posting this! Would never have figured it out on my own. Extremely helpful.
I thanks for this. I've banged to do the fox fix, but rather than cut and splice, I just pulled the nipples off the end of the tubes, and put the new nipple on the existing tube.
+1 about those rear connectors being a real PITA though!
Never heard back from you. I have numbers now. The C584 is for the orange male rear plug right.? My question is right next to C584 you have C586; is C586 were the green rear male plug plugs in to.? Because just below C586 you have C587.
Good afternoon from the great state of SC. I'M working on the CJB now and I didn't take a picture of the back of the CJB prior to disconnect. But If you have the CJB in front of you to the rear right there's a male orange plug thats top right ;right)but to the left there is a green male rear plug on the left, there are two female plugs one on top of each other. Which two female plugs is it.(top just across from the orange or bottom left?
I too have this issue. Another TH-camr does the repair via the A pillar. I wonder, could the drain hole in the fender be enlarged a little and the new hose taped to the old then fished up to the A pillar and push fitted there. A dab of silicone should make the fender fitting waterproof. Is this crazy talk?
Hey! for that, you'd need to drop the headliner on that corner, remove the a-pillar cover, drill a very large hole in the inner fender, somehow get tape around the end of the old tube which will be dangling well inside the back of the dash and then drag the new tube through a tight and restricted pathway.... no thanks! someone did this?
2015 Disco 4 ---Just changed mine. Fuse box would be a lot easier if the short cable going to the back was the same length as the other. anyway done now. I made the drain joint above the dash plenty of space behind the A pillar cover. Thanks for the info very helpful
Thanks for the tip. Mine on my Range Rover Sport was clogged. I just opened the roof, got on top and saw that a few little leaves and other stuff had clogged the drains from the top. Hoovered them and there ya go ! Otherwise there could be another simple way to do it : Compressed air from the drain pipe at the bottom !
THANK YOU. I was going insane thinking that it'd be a pain to remove the CJB. My first Rover but I've owned multiple X5s and many other bmws and the rover is my least favorite to work on lol.
Currently struggling with the bottom green connector, but you have let me know what’s in store!!!!….
Thanks for the video. I got my front windshield replace and I notice some water leaking when it rains by the same spot you showed on your video. How I can fix that. I’m afraid water might get into the fuse box and damage something
I hope this video helps you to repair the sunroof drain and gives some insight on replacing the CJB on the LR3. I almost didn't publish it because of some quality issues and I forgot to mention some things (read the subtitles) I suggest you watch my other video on the sunroof drain repair since it is thorough: th-cam.com/video/16x02kh7IAg/w-d-xo.html and watch my Glove box removal video as well since it goes in depth: th-cam.com/video/e-2JOgx2YeM/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for the video! Super useful you saved me! I have done the driver side which was much easier. The conector on the back are truly terrible! But overall I was able to do it! Once again thanks!
Thanks man my 2010 is leaking water in The interior Serna concert one out and parking assist is the CJB related
Center console
Thank you for you video. Both my left and right drain lines nipple have disintegrated just as you shown in picture. I did not use the blue couple but I just cut existing old nipple. Then on the new type nipple plug it in using some silicone, Tested it and no leak inside. I did not have a leak but I did it for peace of mind. It is kind of strange that I had no signs of leak from the past. I just got my LR3 1 week ago. This is a must procedure. The rear connectors for the CJB is tough to install. I finally got the technique down is to lower the CJB slightly to have the best access to the rear.
My recently purchased '06 LR3 has soaked carpets from long term leaking of those drains.
Haven't yet set up my recently purchased Gap tool. But I'm getting many strange reports
on my dash screen, which may or may not be related to wet and shorting connections.
Pulled the 5 seats yesterday and lifted the carpeting to find wire chases filled with water!
The foam backing is dense so I know it will be a while before it dries.But don't have much
of a choice. There are electrical fittings and flex conduit called "water tight"... Which have
sealing solvent similar to PVC products and connector fittings which are designed to be water tight with O rings and threaded connections. The hole through which your hose
protrudes is sharp edged and I'd be concerned about the loose fitting bouncing around
and wearing through the plastic. At the very least I'd install a rubber grommet in that hole.
A threaded and well secured connector will give peace of mind in the long run. In my humble opinion. Thanks, subbed...
I also have weird stuff going on!
Got any tips on reconnecting the back connectors? I can feel the red one slip into the slot, but my fingers can't pull down the lever. This is so maddening!
Hi thank u for your video. Mine lr3 only on passenger side. I m know nothing about fixing car . But want to save money. Would ube able help or write. a instruction please?
Thank you for the video. The back connector I managed to secure by connecting a piece of string to the latch. Once the connector was in place, with one hand I was holding it in place and other pulled on a string which in result pulled the latch down and secure the connector. Hope it helps.
very interesting solution, I like it.
@@ZipZapDIY how did u get the back out
Ugh! I’ve made the repairs but can’t get the fuse box back in. This is challenging to say the least
How do you get that green fuse handle off because mine is stuck do you have any suggestions how to get it off without breaking it?
GREAT VIDEO...HOWEVER Is there any trick to remove the CJB and slide it under the glove box support? It doesn't appear there is enough room .....Did you removed the carpet???
Is there also a set of rear drain tubes that also need to be replaced?
Outstanding work sir. Thank you very much.
Your best bet is to seal the sunroof with silicone like I did. I replaced the tubes 3 times as they always fail, either clogged or crack. Landrover quality will even be worse now that they are owned by India and China (Tata and Chery Motors). What a sad ending for a brand that's been bounced around like a racket ball. So sad. I have many repair videos on my channel due to al the problems in the past...even a detailed repair of the sunroof drains with the headliner removed.
Hey can you explain how to seal the sunroof with silicone please?
Open sunroof, put a bead of silicone in the recessed area...close sunroof and then disable sunroof switch
@@productreviewspecialist Thank you so much
Im begging for help... Any advice onto putting the cjb back in? I quite literally cannot get the cjb to even go high enough to reach the bolts to put the nuts over. I just seems like its constantly hitting something. If you have any help, please let me know. In regards, Jack.
Most of this video is very helpful, but it's real convenient how u left out the details on re-installation of the CJB. ...
thanks for the video! However, I have a 2016 LR4 HSE Lux. Is it similar to the LR3? I've tried to find the draining holes on the sunroof tray but I can't find them. If it is the same as the LR3, I will give it a try. Whom ever designed the draining system was smoking some bad weed. LR4 ride nice until something simple goes wrong and you end up dismantling half of the interior to fix it. @ $200 per hour in the shop, it can get costly. Thanks again!
Not sure about the LR4, my guess is it similar. They were def smoking and sharing it with the materials engineer who picked out that disintegrating rubber nipple...
Just finished mine. But my Rover stuck half way park in my garage and it wouldn’t start. It left with lights n sensor fault all over the dash with a E on my gear indicator. Don’t know what happen. But those CJB are a pain in the butt. Harder to put back then to remove.10/17/2021 found out one of the back plug was not properly plug back on must’ve flip the release flap while trying to shove the CJB back up there. Everything works fine and got to clean the TCM behind the battery. Thought that was the issue because it was corroded.
Hi, the clips that hold the plugs in on the back of the cjb do you know what there called or a part # pls 🙏 great videos thanks
I need this as well, been searching all day. It appears to be a unicorn.
QUICK FIX WITHOUT REMOVING JUNCKTION BOX (15-20 min work. You need a 2nd person for part of the job)
Thanx for your video, but was glad with knowledge that with removing the window airbag cover between windshield and front door you can easy retract the tube above dashboard without taking junction box out.
That airbag cover comes lose with 1 torch crew behind the plastic airbag sign that you need to pop off. Its easy.
I pulled up old tube, tried to put a pulling wire over the old tube first from the ventilation cover but i could not (if you can get a wire over that would be a good thing to do as then you have a guiding wire) so i just pulled it up towards the window inside and above dashboard..
If the end plug is still partly usable it perfect to use as a connector between new and old hose.
i could cut of dried out part and still use most of the rest. You can also use connector inside size 8mm outside 12mm
Pushing down a new tube from dashboard towards the exhaust hole did not work well. It got stuck in all wires.
I start pushing a electricity wire with solid copper core down.
You can steer this kind of wire a bit..Its stiff.
Had to do it with 2nd person so one pushes the other one lookes in the hole.
Was very quick that wire was in front of the hole. Pulled wire out with a tool.
Then duck tape the electra wire inside a new tube that you enter from the ventilation hole side and push up, the other person pulls softly on electra wire from inside until new tube is above dashboard.
The tube of a outboard engine gashose (Inside 8 mm outside 12MM) is same diameter.
I used the not dried out part of the old chassis piece to connect both hoses and tightened them with hose clamps . There is enough space to work the hose and claps behind the airbag cover.
You have to cut the old hose so the whole is connected just above dashboard hole going down.
Took me 15 minutes and gladly had not to remover juctionbox!
Was very happy it worked as removing the junction box can be really a pain, and if you need something you can not use the car whilst doing it.
On drivers side its much more simple as with removing the dashboard plate directly under the wheel (poppes off when you pull it) and the bottom dashboard plate. Then you can work with 2 hands making an extension on the tube and push it out again. On pessenger side there is the fuse box which prefends you to get at point where you need to work.
Sounds like an easier way to do it. I can't really understand much after you pop off the airbag cover, wish you'd made a video. I'd really like to try this method.
Thanks so much for sharing this. Is there any chance you have insight on other leak issues? I can't tell if the drain is corroded inside, but I previously fixed a leak with the simple nozzle unclog pinch once I'd found it. This time it's not the solution. I have water through the drain. But where should the water go once it leaves the drain? It appears to flood the passenger floor from there. Has something else failed?Also inside the frame below the drain outlet there's a bag that appears flooded. No idea what the bag is or how water could be in there. Any suggestions?
Do you know if these steps are similar to that on a 2012 LR4? I have the same problem on my LR4 which I origiinally thought was my A/C drain tube being clogged but I think it's the sunroof. Great video!!!
Thanks. I bet that it is nearly identical
Awesome video, I have a 2006 LR3 and just noticed water on the passenger flood board. Our sunroof stopped working 6 months ago due to the drainage cloth and we haven’t been able to fix yet. The dealer estimates over $1000 to fix that. Do you know how to fix the sunroof drainage and sunroof or know of and video on TH-cam, thanks
Hi, sorry do not.
these videos have been a life saver! Thank you so much!
Great video! Although after everything was put back together my driver side window and backseat driver side window are stuck in the down position with no mobility. Do you think that could have been from the connection process of the junction box. Looks like the ECU is fine. Just seeing if there were any issues for you like this?
@ZipZapDIY any info would be a huge help!
How does the connector on the bottom of the CJB come off? I want to avoid brute force in the removal but I’m getting to that stage of frustration. Thanks!
It has a push pin on the center of the backside that you have to push in then pull it out.
My LR3 is leaking on the driver side. Aside from water on the floorboards, some actual leaking thru the ceiling of the truck between the skylight and top of windshield.
Those are classic symptoms of a clogged sunroof drain line. To clear the drain line, open the sunroof use some edge trimmer line to push down the drain line, (holes are towards the front of the sunroof opening) pour water as you do and it will clear out.
Hi..thank you for this great video.This passager side leak has happened to our 2006 twice before and iI saw yesterday during a torrential rain some water getting in at air bag cover on Window rail and down at bottom under glove box.
A new drain was put in by dealer about 4 years ago..could the end of drain have disintegrated in such a short time? Is it possible drain is clogged ? Thanks again.
4 years seems too short for the nipple failure, and if you have water on the airbag cover, you probably have a clogged drain line, you can use edge trimmer line to chase the line to clear the clog, be careful, don't poke thru the rubber nipple at the bottom, the drain intake holes are located on the front corners of the sunroof, you need to open the sunroof and may need to push down the wind deflector to access them
@@ZipZapDIY Could trimmer line actually puncture the rubber grommet at the end of the line (one that goes into Air Intake)
How do you program a CJB if you bought one used off of eBay?
Zip Zap i did this repair and didn't see your posts about cleaning all the connections with contact cleaner. Those back plugs are a real pain. After putting it back together my front windows don't work, and the truck thinks all the doors are open. So the suspension will not raise or lower. Any ideas which plug it might be? I hate to tear it back apart but it has to be fixed.
sorry, no clue which connector, time to break out the wiring diagram. :( or start with the accessible ones.. and see what happens.. I'd inspect the pins and fuses too
I've been struggling to get the bottom connector(green one unplugged). Is there a locking mechanism or does it just take some wiggling? I've been at this for longer than I care to admit. Thanks for the video
no locking mechanism, just a simple push down a tab and pull off, You might be able to use a flat blade screwdriver to help you pry it down? ? I feel for you, this is not a fun repair.
@@ZipZapDIY thanks for a quick reply. I had to button it up before I could finish. Hope to finish up tomorrow!
The push tab is on the back of the connector in the center
Water is on my right and left side any quick fix Thanks
this is the quick fix!
Do you remember these two connectors on the back brown and green, which one go left and which right?
Did you ever get an answer to this? I'm trying to put mine back together and can't figure out which one goes where.
@@gonegoodman932 no, I was able to find wiring just by googling images of the block
I performed this today and it worked, but I "DID NOT" remove the rear CJB connections, but did disconnect the battery. That said, after getting all the CJB electrical reconnected and starting the truck, several warning messages.
- Fuel Level Low Warning and Dash Indicator @ "0"
- All doors open when closed
- Height Change disabled due to erroneous - all doors open warning
- Brake pads worn w/ plenty left
Anyone else experience anything like this?
Is any of the wiring for these in the CJB connections on the front or bottom, that may have been affected? Or am I looking at a re-programming issue?
Appreciate any feedback
Thanks for the video.Does the water leak right onto the CJB? Did it cause any electrical problems? Thanks for your time.
It appears that the water does not directly flow onto the CJB but it does flow onto the wiring harnesses. If left unresolved, the moisture in the area of the CJB will cause problems. ( I did not experience any electrical problems and noticed only minimal corrosion, but I taped up the sunroof as soon as we noticed the problem to minimize the issues)
Followed the directions......no leaks....but developed warnings the doors are open - but they are not , the door on back is Open- and its not, unlock the doors and they stay locked, interior lights stay on , Sunroof will not close or open. WHAT A NIGHTMARE!!!! I would take the leak......in trade for all these problems!!!!! Now what? Any suggestions? Would a new CJB be the answer?
If you found an answer to this please send help my way :). I unfortunately have the exact same problem after reinstalling.
@@shanegibbs4248 mine did the same thing! It’s your orange plug in the back. Mine wasn’t seated properly. If you can see the little red tab, it’s not in far enough.
I was able to just swap out the ends of the lines, no need to cut and splice. Your mileage may vary based on differences in years, but I was able to do it on my ‘06.
I'm thinking of doing the same, replacing just the end piece. Do you have any advice or steps to follow after you have freed the tubing from the hole in the fender?
Thank you for posting, excellent video.
I punctured the nipple inside my tube, what is that bad?
Hi, I just bought an 06 lr3 with out a sunroof. My question is...could this issue happen as well with out sunroof?
I've been reading online and it seems that my "volume knob" doesn't work due to a faulty wire that could possibly be wet from a faulty drain tube...
Any ideas / suggestions before I take it into the shop ?
I've removed the glove box and fiddle in there but didn't feel anything wet.
There are two ways water gets in there.. the sunroof drain and the air intake for hvac… if you don't have a sunroof, no leak there... inspect your windshield cowl on passenger side, if it is warped, it will allow water into the fresh air intake for the a/c system. I've made a video th-cam.com/video/k3lbCPb65Bs/w-d-xo.html
I need help on the back of the Fuse Box they have two connector C584 & C586 what is the color Plug
Thank you for you video
One is red, one is green, but they are different so you can't get them the wrong way round.
How did you disconnect the box? You omitted the most important part. You show after the fact.
Would it be worth doing the left side at the same time as preventative maintenance? I'm assuming the LH and RH parts are identical...
Yes, the LH side is very easy so if you need to do the RH side, I would do the LH side first to get in the mood and a feel for what is going on down there.
ZipZapDIY thanks for the response. One more quick question: I see that the drain tube for the Range Rover Sport (EEH500120) is less than half the price as the one you listed. Do you have any idea, since the hose is getting cut anyway, if that will work in place? I'm assuming the grommet size is the same, but the length is different... If you have any insight on this, it would be appreciated.
Yes, the RRS tube will work. it should be the exact same nipple/grommet.
Thanks for the info! I did this repair this week. Now to fix the water coming in the fresh air intake...
You must be talking about replacing the windshield cowling.. th-cam.com/video/k3lbCPb65Bs/w-d-xo.html I was amazed to see the fresh air intake is right underneath the edge of the windshield and perfectly placed to catch all the water that gets under the warped cowling!
i'm having same problem but my hazard lights are flashing and i have problems starting at times ... do i need a new CJB? or should i just clean connections
hi Timothy did you ever get to the bottom of what the fault was my hazards are flashing and not attempting to start at times aswell as the doors locking and unlocking thankyou
My LR3 started to get water under the ceiling and flowing on each corner of the sunroof (when turning) and thru reading light. Now water comes down thru the black mesh part that comes around the doors. Any idea where is the water coming from??
Your drain lines may be clogged, the water is backing up and overflowing out of the sunroof "tray". You can confirm the drain Is clogged by pouring water down the drain holes at the front corners of the sunroof. There are a few methods to clean the drains, one is to blow air through them, another is to take edge trimmer wire and poke the dirt out.
ZipZapDIY I just did what you said and it worked!!!! Water came out on both sides next to the front tires. Now I'm going to dry the carpets and see if it's OK when raining. Thanks. 06LR3 from Poland.
The two plugs on the back of the CJU were very difficult to reattach. I spent six hours and both were equally hard. Use a mirror and when you can not see a red tab on the green one, it is in. Pull the lever down and you're done. The car will not crank and an E message for the gears will appear if the green connector on the back is not in. My hands are medium sized for this tight job. I am not sure a young person, as mentioned in a response could have done this for me. It is super tedious.
I did all this and did not replace the hose. All that was needed was to pinch the nipple in the air intake compartment. Water shot out when pouring it in the sun roof.
I removed the air dam on the passenger side and the nipple is still protruding from the open space but i am still getting water in the floor board. Anything else to check?
check for a warped windshield cowling on passenger side. The fresh air intake is there and a warped cowling will allow water in to it and on to the floor board.
@@ZipZapDIY thank you very much. Checked the air dam this morning and it certainly had a small gap in it so i will be replacing it. Thank you a ton for that suggestion!
if you didn't; see it already... here is my video on the windshield cowling th-cam.com/video/k3lbCPb65Bs/w-d-xo.html in it you can see the vulnerable fresh air intake scoop.
What about B pillar ?
my LR3 2006 is stuck in phone mode and I tried everything but the issue is still there.... could that be the cause of the problem?
and have you ever came across such issue?and what's the solution?
thanks
maybe a sticky phone button? Our radio has a hyper sensitive aux button, if you look at it wrong it jumps to aux input, could it be that your phone button is doing the same as our aux button?
ZipZapDIY I'm pretty sure all buttons are ok & did my research online about the issue and did all suggested action but still... I'm left with checking all wiring ☻💔 thanks for your video it helps a lot my man 👍 keep up the good work
Thanks so much again. You’ve been very helpful.
Thanks this video was a great help.
Could this problem cause bunch of light on in the dash
this is not known to cause "lots of lights"... it could, but unlikely...... check your brake light bulbs and brake light switch. The most lights I've seen light up are associated with a bad brake light switch.. also the suspension system controls went dark.
Will this be the same for a 2010 Rover sport
it should be different, but i'm not sure how different.
Let me make this job MUCH EASIER for all who want to do this...
1) DO NOT mess with the CJB (unless you are already having weird electrical, water related, issues and need to clean it with contact cleaner).
2) Pull down a partial part of the headliner on the passenger side--> Take out screws for the oh shit handle, sun visor, and pull to release center clips above center, overhead light.
3) Pull out external air intake cover and appropriate parts to expose the nipple exit hole (as seen in this video).
4) Push nipple back into car (DO NOT PULL IT OUT).
5) Use a quarter sized ($.25) metal hole cutter with drill (aprox.1-1/8") not too big....and cut a hole around the nipple hole. Yes, you are drilling though metal.
6) Disconnect the hose from the sunroof drain (headliner is partially pulled down so this is easy at this point).
7) Now the hose is more accessible because of the hole you drilled where the nipple drains. -->Pull nipple end of hose then push down hose from sunroof, pull nipple end, then push down, and so on and so fourth. (****CAUTION you only need about two inches of hose to work with so do not not pull too much through***)
8) Replace the joint and then push hose back to where it was with the lip of the nipple resting on the edge of the cut. You do not need to silicone or secure the hose- it will rest fine on the edge. Further, you can get rid of that pice of foam that separates the nipple from the rubber air intake if you want- it doesn't serve much purpose at this point in the vehicle's life.
-->job done. Time...30 min - 1 hour. No stress.
Even easier...th-cam.com/video/1UKIN7bW0aA/w-d-xo.html
What would your advice be in regards to corner brakes lights not working but top middle brake light works?
Perfect video, thanks!
Your vídeo was a Great help, thanks a lot.
you're welcome!
I need nipples my good man. Where’d you get them? Great videos, and thanks, btw.
You can do it without puch conector just squeez the of and do the same on the old one and install it. That is all.
thanks for sharing
Awesomely Done😃
This is what I am going through currently. Mine is at the Dealership. Lots of cash!
Great video thanks!!
Thanks a million
Update: Cleaned off the drain holes on each side of sunroof and no more leaks!! Carpet is incredibly saturated so it will take days for it to dry. BTW, If anyone knows the exact location or color of the wire that corrodes and breaks on the Right side door sill somewhere that powers the remote locking antenna I would appreciate sharing it.
The wire is located on right side, under the door sill about 2 inches in front of the seat mounting. the wire is blue with white stripe, there will be two wires with splices on them in the wiring harness, the target is the one with smaller wires. You will need to remove the screws that hold down the seat and then elevate the seat to remove the door sill and door sill cover. (one is over the carpet, the other is under the carpet.)
By any chance does the seat tilt back if you remove just the front screws that hold the seat or do you have to take out all 4?. Thank you kindly for your tips!!. I am learning a whole "new" car so its going to be a process to say the least. Off topic but have you heard of BRITPART.COM? They're over in England and I'm trying to buy a tool that can program a key (as well as do OBD) and they have some pretty good stuff. I just don't know if they have a model that does and 05 LR3. I did write to them from their web page to ask them but haven't heard back yet.
all 5 screws need to come out, parts of the sill cover under the carpet are under the seat and very difficult if not impossible to remove without the seat lifted up fully.. I don't think I've used britpart for anything, I might have but not sure..
Did the seat tonight (first car ever with 5 bolts :-) and yes just like you said 2 different wires spliced and electrical tape around them about 2 inches parallel to the the mounting bolt. The bigger had 2 wires on it and it was red and black but the little one was green and white (or tan depending on your sight). I wonder if that was just the flavor of the day at the factory or if I got the wrong wires but there were no other wires spliced in that big wad of cables. I still cut it and plan to solder it together. What's your take on the green/white?
Should have shown the actual removal of the CJB
Thanks
Good video
Probably will take it to the dealer though