In part two of this video, we finish the project by installing the valves and switches. Project Webpage: www.rv-project.... Copyright www.RV-Project.Com
Waiting for all my parts to arrive. Am using the circuit board, but on your drawing for wiring (I'm using the screw down terminal) the color layout, left to right, appears to be backwards. Can't tell for sure, but video seems to show it, left to right, yellow, green, brown, white. And looking at the circuit board labeling it shows "light" (yellow wire) on the left. The two middle terminals are motor, but which is open and close? I guess once the boards get here I can test for which is what. My galley gray water tank cable is in the wheel well and is a bugger to open and close so this is a great fix for that. The other two are in the "control center" in the storage compartment where i will be installing the new control panel (all three dumps are being upgraded). This is going to be a great addition to all the other upgrades I have do already to our 5th wheel.
Great Video! Impressive work. Any advise on removing the under belly? Mine seems to be installed with Hot Nails. The entire under belly, front to rear.
I don't see any adhesive. It looks as if they used a nail driven directly into the bottom of the frame. I think they are called Hot Nails. Looks like I'll be cutting them off an putting it all back with self tapping screws. Im looking forward to all the cutting and grinding on my back. Haha!
@@neilyoung8154 Take a pair of vice grips and grab the head of the nail and twist and pull. They will eventually come out. Use self tapping screws to using the existing nail holes to reattach the coroplast.
Very informative. How is the Zero G hose working out for you? I'm using it for my water connection at the campsite and no problems so far. Love the ease of coiling them up in cold weather.
The problem I see is most rvs have the gray and black tanks hooked up to the same hose. This setup let's you open both the black and gray valves at the same time!!! You never want that!! You want either one or the other not both.
I'm a full timer so I'd mount them inside the RV. One issue I see for people who live at an RV park is you unusually leave the gray water valve open, and in my case the galley too. Do you think this would be a problem other than the lights staying on?
The device is mostly mechanical. There is a DC motor that runs when the valve opens and closes. But there is a limit switch on each end that turns the motor off when fully open or fully closed. The switch that comes with the Barker valves (and which I used for my panel) is a momentary switch - meaning it is only energized when pressed. When you release the switch, it turns off. The only things that take power is the motor and indicator light. The light that shows the valve is open is simply an incandescent light, so in theory, it could stay on all the time. If this is a concern, simply put a master on-off switch on the unit. Again, I did this with my panel as I did not want the lights to be on in a boondocking situation.
Nice up grade
You should be selling this whole set up. Looks great
You Da Man... I like it!!!
Thanks for watching.
Looks like I’ll be keeping my manual ones. 🤪
You rally made huge project out of simple thing to fix.
Waiting for all my parts to arrive. Am using the circuit board, but on your drawing for wiring (I'm using the screw down terminal) the color layout, left to right, appears to be backwards. Can't tell for sure, but video seems to show it, left to right, yellow, green, brown, white. And looking at the circuit board labeling it shows "light" (yellow wire) on the left. The two middle terminals are motor, but which is open and close? I guess once the boards get here I can test for which is what. My galley gray water tank cable is in the wheel well and is a bugger to open and close so this is a great fix for that. The other two are in the "control center" in the storage compartment where i will be installing the new control panel (all three dumps are being upgraded). This is going to be a great addition to all the other upgrades I have do already to our 5th wheel.
I was not aware that an electronic upgrade was available. This chore is coming up for me. Thanks for the info.
Its more electric though. Just a motor and pinion gear that is attached to the waste gate.
Watching this got be to thinking about Rube Goldberg for some reason.
Except that Rube Goldberg didn't necessarily improve things.
That's an impressive installation. I always learn a lot from your projects!
Thanks!
Wow this is amazing. You make all this look so easy lol
Thank you.
Love the video and RV project.
Wish I had time to do it.
Thanks for watching
This is the best upgrade I’ve seen. I will be checking your website for the details. Way to go sir!!
Thanks for watching.
Another impressive video where you take the same model of RV I have and just make it that much better. Well done!
Glad you liked it!
This video is from three years ago, any upgrades to the system, thank you
Very nice as usual.
Thanks again!
What if the motor fails is there a manual way to dump the tanks?
Great Video! Impressive work. Any advise on removing the under belly? Mine seems to be installed with Hot Nails. The entire under belly, front to rear.
As in the adhesive? Guess they never considered having to work on the RV.
Mine was installed with self-tapping screws.
I don't see any adhesive. It looks as if they used a nail driven directly into the bottom of the frame. I think they are called Hot Nails. Looks like I'll be cutting them off an putting it all back with self tapping screws. Im looking forward to all the cutting and grinding on my back. Haha!
@@neilyoung8154 Take a pair of vice grips and grab the head of the nail and twist and pull. They will eventually come out. Use self tapping screws to using the existing nail holes to reattach the coroplast.
Very informative. How is the Zero G hose working out for you? I'm using it for my water connection at the campsite and no problems so far. Love the ease of coiling them up in cold weather.
It's good
Thanks Like #21
Thank you for supporting the channel.
another great video when your ready to upgrade your rv please sell it to me
Thank you for supporting the channel.
The problem I see is most rvs have the gray and black tanks hooked up to the same hose. This setup let's you open both the black and gray valves at the same time!!! You never want that!! You want either one or the other not both.
each tank valve is independently controlled.
I'm a full timer so I'd mount them inside the RV. One issue I see for people who live at an RV park is you unusually leave the gray water valve open, and in my case the galley too. Do you think this would be a problem other than the lights staying on?
The device is mostly mechanical. There is a DC motor that runs when the valve opens and closes. But there is a limit switch on each end that turns the motor off when fully open or fully closed.
The switch that comes with the Barker valves (and which I used for my panel) is a momentary switch - meaning it is only energized when pressed. When you release the switch, it turns off.
The only things that take power is the motor and indicator light.
The light that shows the valve is open is simply an incandescent light, so in theory, it could stay on all the time. If this is a concern, simply put a master on-off switch on the unit. Again, I did this with my panel as I did not want the lights to be on in a boondocking situation.