Matt,I've been shaping since "82. For the Back Rail, I would normally Undertuck it a bit then ,once In a Laminated State, Rebuilt The Edge with a resin dam. I found that the combination of" Sink yet Bite" rear rail,allows the rider to lay into the turn as hard as they like,without the rear rail releasing unnecessary or awkwardly. Great video bt the way, Concise. Mahalo Ni Loa
Hey i am Doping my First Board and i have a question: I warnt to make a 6 foot Board and Use it for River Surfing and Surfing smaller waves .Should i take another shape and size? And can you work with Epoxyd Glue without respiratory Protection Thanks
Hey matt another really helpful video thanks! Was just wondering some rough ballpark measurements for me to use a bit of a guide that I’m on the right path. Those being: how high up you normally bring the bottom tuck? And how much untouched sidewall is normally left before and then after microbevels? Thanks a lot 🙏
Kyle, Do Not Over Touch the side walls! I've been shaping since "82. You can always go back and remove,if too boxy. What you CANT DO,is add more foam,once you've removed it,Obviously!
Hello from North Carolina! I have been following your videos & they are great!! I'm currently shaping my first surfboard. It's going to be short & thick (Simmons type 5.6 & about 3 inches thick). Now it's time to shape the rails. Is your 1 1/8 inch line measured from the deck or bottom of the board? I think the deck but want to be certain because so far it's coming out pretty good. Thanks!
That's informative! Thanks! After the bottom tuck and the first two deck side rail bands are done (but not yet blended), the untouched part (tail up to about 12") looks strange. It looks to thick and not like it's flowing. What is the sorcery/geometry that happens here and how to deal with it? Thanks again, you got great stuff on here!
Yes, that last foot or so of the tail and nose is the place that the shaper gives it their own special look and feel. It is always best to blend that part by hand and eye...
Hi thank you for the video they have helped me a lot just a quick question will this rail profile work for all wave types weak and Powerful or just in Hawaii
Currently shaping a 7,3 egg because I happened to sell my 7,1 Minimal. Although I want a knifey rail on it since all my boards are boxy railed for a heavy set guy. (Currently weighting between 215--235lbs) depending on my weight training, I feel I should leave a bit of foam on the center to nose since I already thin out center to tail. I scribed it like you do which same me a ton of time and marked it two to four inches on the rail bands (Deckside). This time I didn't follow up the stupid exact marks template that I did follow in my past boards using a dowel. With all this being written I find that once is marked the best method is eyeballing the rails.
Hey Matt I just got done shaping a 6’0” and had some issues with the rails. I wanted really full rails so I went with a bottom tuck of .5” on the rail and bottom of the board and a rail line at 1.5” on the rail and 2” on the deck for the first two bevels. Used a rasp to take down the hard edges before screening. The result was a rail where the apex felt too high. Would you suggest less tuck or have any other advice that might lead me in a better direction next board? You’re videos have priceless information and have taught me better techniques and broken bad habits. Thanks for sharing the wisdom in an easily digestible format! 🤙🏼
scott mietz. I feel that 1.5" is too high for a short board. No problem, you just need to add another smaller bevel to get that apex down lower. I also like to go less aggressive on that bottom tuck bevel and make 3 smaller ones to be safe
kazumasurfboards ok that totally makes sense. I shaped the tuck with the planer and it was definitely too aggressive. I like the tip you gave to put 3 stages into the tuck and that will probably mean a lot less screening to get the right curve in the rail. Thanks!
scott mietz. The nice thing about not going to aggressive on the bevels is that you can always add another bevel to make a tuck bigger. More bevels, less screening is needed.
@@kazumasurfboards does the tuck stay the same on most boards? After planing the first rail band at 1 1/8" and the primary tuck how big should the flat of the outline be? Stoked to get dialed in on shaping the rails! All of your videos are much appreciated!
Greetings from Atlanta, GA. Matt, I came across a older "surfer steve video" whereby a sort of hotwire rail-cutter could be made to basically cut the shape of a surfboard rail into the square profile smooth and instantly.....but that being the case, both the nose and tail rail will be too thick but already rounded when it's time to shape the rail bands which need to be tapered down at nose and tail of the board (because the hotwire cutter is not size adjustable). So I'm confused a little on how to achieve this blend because we are used to seeing a flat or square or 90 degree angle profile tapered or shaped down at the nose and tail, NOT one already smoothly rounded (50/50 or 60/40).... If we remove the foam hotwire cutter before contacting the tail and nose area (leaving them square), how can we blend in and taper the rail bands from square area to the already round hotwired area?? If we continue the hot wire cutter around the nose and tail, how do we blend or taper down that already smoothly rounded railband at the nose and tail?? If we build a SMALLER hotwire cutter with same round (50/50 or 60/40) shape but exclusively for the nose and tail area only, again, how to blend or transition the smaller rounded rail cut at the nose and tail to the bigger one that is along the rest of the board's rail profile?? Here's the video (at 1:00) th-cam.com/video/juYzB7fF-DQ/w-d-xo.html
Cool little curve cutter. Those is eps foam (Hotwire wont cut polyurethane) if I was to use a tool. Like that I would simply dand sand in the last foot of the nose and tail. In my video, my planer is a modified planer that can cut zero to full cut in 1/4 turn of the handle so I am tapering out the cut at the ends to get the rail that I want.
Salvador Martinez. That 1 1/8" is center tapering nose and tail to whatever measurement looks and blends right. I always have to have some vertical sidewall because that is your actual outline. Mess with that and your outline changes.
Hi Jay, I am sorry that I couldn't respond to your other comments, they disappeared before I could. This scribe mark that I do allows me to get a good bottom tuck. Lower scribe mark only limits what you can do with the tuck. I like softer rails. When I want thinner rails, I just makr more aggressive top bevels. Aloha, Matt
best rail shaping video i have ever seen. the inch and an eighth is the right one alright. always gives a lovely looking rail
Thank you
Wow that was the best rail video I've seen .
This was fantastic! I always wanted to learn how to shape! For real! Enjoy your videos...thanks for sharing! Cheers man!
I am glad to hear that they are not too boring🙂
kazumasurfboards No way man!! Lol not boring dude I like your instructional a lot this is great
ty for sharing! also, great to see hand Shaping!
nice demo. greetings from siargao island philippines..
Matt,I've been shaping since "82. For the Back Rail, I would normally Undertuck it a bit then ,once In a Laminated State, Rebuilt The Edge with a resin dam. I found that the combination of" Sink yet Bite" rear rail,allows the rider to lay into the turn as hard as they like,without the rear rail releasing unnecessary or awkwardly. Great video bt the way, Concise. Mahalo Ni Loa
Yes, tucking that back like you say is a good thing to do. Forgiving and easier to get the proper transition.
Hey i am Doping my First Board and i have a question:
I warnt to make a 6 foot Board and Use it for River Surfing and Surfing smaller waves .Should i take another shape and size?
And can you work with Epoxyd Glue without respiratory Protection
Thanks
i like your rail templates. How do you scale a boards rocker for different size boards of the same model? thanks.
Excelente video .disculpa como se llama ese dispositivo que husas con el lápiz gracias
Yeah, exactly what I do. More deck dome in the thicker boards; flatter decks in thinner boards.
Hey matt another really helpful video thanks! Was just wondering some rough ballpark measurements for me to use a bit of a guide that I’m on the right path. Those being: how high up you normally bring the bottom tuck? And how much untouched sidewall is normally left before and then after microbevels? Thanks a lot 🙏
Kyle, Do Not Over Touch the side walls! I've been shaping since "82. You can always go back and remove,if too boxy. What you CANT DO,is add more foam,once you've removed it,Obviously!
Hello from North Carolina! I have been following your videos & they are great!! I'm currently shaping my first surfboard. It's going to be short & thick (Simmons type 5.6 & about 3 inches thick). Now it's time to shape the rails. Is your 1 1/8 inch line measured from the deck or bottom of the board? I think the deck but want to be certain because so far it's coming out pretty good. Thanks!
Thst measurement is referenced from the bottom/rocker
The bestest info out there. Mahalos
Thank you
That's informative! Thanks! After the bottom tuck and the first two deck side rail bands are done (but not yet blended), the untouched part (tail up to about 12") looks strange. It looks to thick and not like it's flowing. What is the sorcery/geometry that happens here and how to deal with it? Thanks again, you got great stuff on here!
Yes, that last foot or so of the tail and nose is the place that the shaper gives it their own special look and feel. It is always best to blend that part by hand and eye...
Hi thank you for the video they have helped me a lot just a quick question will this rail profile work for all wave types weak and Powerful or just in Hawaii
Yes it is a magic rail for most all conditions
You should do a series from begging to end
Currently shaping a 7,3 egg because I happened to sell my 7,1 Minimal. Although I want a knifey rail on it since all my boards are boxy railed for a heavy set guy. (Currently weighting between 215--235lbs) depending on my weight training, I feel I should leave a bit of foam on the center to nose since I already thin out center to tail. I scribed it like you do which same me a ton of time and marked it two to four inches on the rail bands (Deckside). This time I didn't follow up the stupid exact marks template that I did follow in my past boards using a dowel. With all this being written I find that once is marked the best method is eyeballing the rails.
Yes there is always that blend in the nose and tail that only the eye can get right.
Hey Matt I just got done shaping a 6’0” and had some issues with the rails. I wanted really full rails so I went with a bottom tuck of .5” on the rail and bottom of the board and a rail line at 1.5” on the rail and 2” on the deck for the first two bevels. Used a rasp to take down the hard edges before screening. The result was a rail where the apex felt too high. Would you suggest less tuck or have any other advice that might lead me in a better direction next board?
You’re videos have priceless information and have taught me better techniques and broken bad habits. Thanks for sharing the wisdom in an easily digestible format! 🤙🏼
scott mietz. I feel that 1.5" is too high for a short board. No problem, you just need to add another smaller bevel to get that apex down lower. I also like to go less aggressive on that bottom tuck bevel and make 3 smaller ones to be safe
kazumasurfboards ok that totally makes sense. I shaped the tuck with the planer and it was definitely too aggressive. I like the tip you gave to put 3 stages into the tuck and that will probably mean a lot less screening to get the right curve in the rail. Thanks!
kazumasurfboards Just saw your video on high performance rail tuck and you do a great job explaining what you just mentioned here. Thanks again!
scott mietz. The nice thing about not going to aggressive on the bevels is that you can always add another bevel to make a tuck bigger. More bevels, less screening is needed.
@@kazumasurfboards does the tuck stay the same on most boards? After planing the first rail band at 1 1/8" and the primary tuck how big should the flat of the outline be? Stoked to get dialed in on shaping the rails! All of your videos are much appreciated!
Greetings from Atlanta, GA. Matt,
I came across a older "surfer steve video" whereby a sort of hotwire rail-cutter could be made to basically cut the shape of a surfboard rail into the square profile smooth and instantly.....but that being the case, both the nose and tail rail will be too thick but already rounded when it's time to shape the rail bands which need to be tapered down at nose and tail of the board (because the hotwire cutter is not size adjustable). So I'm confused a little on how to achieve this blend because we are used to seeing a flat or square or 90 degree angle profile tapered or shaped down at the nose and tail, NOT one already smoothly rounded (50/50 or 60/40)....
If we remove the foam hotwire cutter before contacting the tail and nose area (leaving them square), how can we blend in and taper the rail bands from square area to the already round hotwired area?? If we continue the hot wire cutter around the nose and tail, how do we blend or taper down that already smoothly rounded railband at the nose and tail?? If we build a SMALLER hotwire cutter with same round (50/50 or 60/40) shape but exclusively for the nose and tail area only, again, how to blend or transition the smaller rounded rail cut at the nose and tail to the bigger one that is along the rest of the board's rail profile??
Here's the video (at 1:00) th-cam.com/video/juYzB7fF-DQ/w-d-xo.html
Cool little curve cutter. Those is eps foam (Hotwire wont cut polyurethane) if I was to use a tool. Like that I would simply dand sand in the last foot of the nose and tail. In my video, my planer is a modified planer that can cut zero to full cut in 1/4 turn of the handle so I am tapering out the cut at the ends to get the rail that I want.
kazumasurfboards ahh, ok cool, thanks. Appreciate all of your videos and knowledge sharing...now it’s time to get to It... hands on!!...👍🏾
Is the 1 1/8" mark at center only? Or @12N @Center & @12T .
Salvador Martinez. That 1 1/8" is center tapering nose and tail to whatever measurement looks and blends right. I always have to have some vertical sidewall because that is your actual outline. Mess with that and your outline changes.
I like thinner rails would I want to just make my scribe mark lower? and what's ur thoughts about harder rails vs softer rails. be safe brotha! :-)
Hi Jay, I am sorry that I couldn't respond to your other comments, they disappeared before I could. This scribe mark that I do allows me to get a good bottom tuck. Lower scribe mark only limits what you can do with the tuck. I like softer rails. When I want thinner rails, I just makr more aggressive top bevels. Aloha, Matt
How was that square tool he had? Is that something that can be bought or made?
Yes, this is a cheap store bought scribe tool
Any jobs going at the factory. Will work for free. Have done 300 boards. can glass a bit too.
I wish I did 🙂