Making LED whips part 2
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ธ.ค. 2020
- making dancing chasing led whips part 2 hopefully answers so of the questions you guys had. check our part 1 for more detailed construction here. • How to make a lighted ...
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I finally bought the parts for this. Super excited to build this!
Nice, good luck on your build let me know if you have any questions along the way. Be sure and check out part one if you haven't done so already.
@@MrRICKDAWG4444 I found it the other day and realized I commented on it two years ago.
@@superbeastie nice, they're super easy to make just work quickly once you start wrapping and try not to wrap to tightly.
Looks like I'm late to the gate on these videos but this is awesome, I'm seriously thinking about making some whips for my Rzr now. Thanks for making these videos. 🤟
For sure man. Everything is better when you make it yourself
@@MrRICKDAWG4444 one side of my wiring went bad on my whips can I run both lights on oneside with splicing into the working side
Yea that will work
Awesome video, gonna make one for my Toyota for some snow wheeling
Nice, should look pretty cool in the snow
You changed it up a bit, glad you made this vid I am going to finally do mine
Yea i originally made the first whip to be used with a quad but I had so many questions as you know I had to make a part two.
Awesome video! So I decided to try it. I received all the products you listed(thanks btw). I wanted to see what the lights looked like lit up and can’t get them to work. I had a broken whip and soldered wires on it and they work. Am I doing something wrong or is it possible I got a bad spool of lights? Thanks in advance.
Where do you buy the magnetic mounts?
I’m new to soldering, when you unsolder the barrel plug do you just go at it from the bottom with the solder until it gets the points break loose?
Yes. Also take a small prying device and pry up on it as you heat the solder points and it'll pop out.
Wow... you've changed it a bit. Now I'm wonder what way to go. Gonna have to think on it. When I was watching the other video seeing how you was working the clear shrink wrap over the LED's, I was thinking you should have used a compressor and blew up the shrink wrap like a...... 😆 balloon so it would of slipped over a lot easier. Whenever I rework my 5150 I'll do that. So again 👍 up another great video.....
Whatever you decide definitely go with a Bluetooth controller outside the whip incase the controller goes bad so you won't need to cut the whip open to change it.
What's the smallest rod one could realistically wrap an led strip around? My electric trike has quarter inch diameter poles. Would those work?
3/8" is the smallest I'd wrap. However you could layer thick shrink wrap over the 1/4" whip you currently have until it's a bit thicker.
I have a question. I'm unsure if missed the answer in one of the videos. If I were to make a 6ft stick how feet of light would I need?
About a roll and a half for 6'
What does it cost you to make one 3ft whip?
Wow, that was a really quick reply...thanks. So, been reading more of the comments and one item that gets my attention is where some people say their silicone covering separates/cracks. And I see how you suggest to avoid this (have everything ready and work fast). Which makes me wonder...why not just use one of the styles, such as the IP30, that aren't considered waterproof and, therefore, don't have any silicone covering. In as much as you are shrink wrapping these, is the silicone covering really necessary?
You could use that type however the finished product doesn't come out as clean looking since the shrink wrap will look and feel bumpy.
I have a couple whip light controllers from from Pro RGB that utilize the same male to female plugs you used in this video, in theory i would like to just use that controller to control the home whips similar to yours, would that work do you think?
The third link down is for 0.25" clear shrink wrap...I can't figure where that comes into play from the video...can you explain? Thanks...and great two videos. Oh, and why are you having to solder the two strips together? Just because you had a section left over from a previous wrap and so as not to waste it?
Thank you. The shrink wrap should be 0.75"- 1" it goes in and out of stock check to make sure you can't check a different size to buy that's in stock. I solder them together because I use more than one roll while wrapping a 6' whip and that makes things go by much quicker than stopping to solder on a new roll.
Where did you get the magnetic base?
Where can I buy the led quick connects ? Nice job btw
Really enjoyed the whip videos. Got to make one ASAP. Is there an special app to download to control the lights or when you launch the Bluetooth it’s automatic thru the controller.
Thank you. Depending on what controller you go with it will have its own app to control it.
Can I wire my controller straight into a 4 flat or how would you suggest doing that?
The controllers have a power ground and data wire going to the leds. So you can wire them up to just about any 12v circuit with a power and ground
The controller you use isn’t available from Amazon. Could you suggest another one?
Try searching for "sp110e controller" In Amazon and it should pop up.
Why did you unsolder the third wire on the controler? My 2 light system has 2 seperate controlers. Both controlers have 3 wires coming out. Red, black and white. Red and black are power and ground but i am not sure about the white. There were no wiring diagram in the box. Any help would appreciate.
I don't unsolder the 3rd wire. I use positive negative and data
Awesome video! I got all the parts in to build two. I'm very basic when it comes to wiring it would have been nice in the video if on the controller you had a red and black wire not 2 black wires that way we could see which side of the controller is hot and ground. I'm assuming the side of the controller with the 2 connections is hot?
I would have to look at the plug to see. There might even be a +or- on the board if I remember correctly. However the inside of the barrel plug is the positive side for reference any part touching the outside of the plug would be the negative terminals. Hope this helps
good job buddy keep up the good videos
Thx bud!
where do you get the whip at with the quick disconnect
5150whips.com/collections/all
Nice job, as always. Where are you getting the whips and mounts, 5150? any luck using another brand? thanks
guess i shoulda scrolled down a bit for my answer.......sorry. nice job anyway.
@@PsNRebel yes I order 5150 day whips to start my whip projects most of the time. Sometimes I use 1/2" fiberglass whips for more heavy duty projects that are intended for flying 3x5 flags at high speed.
How are you making these 12v from 110? Everything else seems pretty easy
12volt power supply
I know this is about a year old but could you use a larger diameter pole to keep the leds from splitting?
Yes you can I've done it in the past
one of those would be awesome on a recumbent trike
Make one and power it with a small power pack. You could even use 5v leds instead of 12v that way the battery will last even longer.
Any chance your going to make a video like the first one, using the new controller that you use now that wouldn’t be in a trailer plug. I’m wondering how to unsolder the barrel plug and if you solder the quick connect wires back to board
I no longer put the controllers in the whips due to them breaking wires or solder points thus making me have to cut the whip open to repair it. Unsoldering the barrel plug is pretty straight forward. Wedge a small flathead screw driver under the base and keep pressure on it while heating up its solder points on the back until it starts to pop off.
Thank you. I decided not to put controller on whip too but I have a issue with the one I just made, the lights are not responding properly to the app they are miss colored I’m wondering if I got the computer board too hot when getting barrel plug off and soldering
It's possible you might have a bad controller or a weak power supply Try pluging in a controller first and see if that fixes the problem.
What diameter rod did you use and what length of whip will the 16’ strip make? I’m looking at making 2 3’ whips do I need 1 or 2 rolls of led strip?
3/8" fiberglass rod. One roll will get you around 5' if using 3/8" whip
Thanks. One last question. What size shrink tube? I’m using a 3/8 rod. 1/2? 3/4?
@@swarf4083 I use 3/4" for the clear shrink wrap. There should be a link for it in the description.
Do You have the link for the whip and their mount?
Google 5151 day whips
Will the controller in your first video control the 60 lcd lights. I noticed you switched from 30 lcds to a 60 lcd. I don't really want blue tooth. Just wondering
Yes it will but with that controller I've had to many issues with so I use the sp110e controller now.
@@MrRICKDAWG4444 Thanks I will look it up...
Do you know of a Bluetooth controller that will control multiple zones? I'd like to make whips, rock lights and body lights all sync up and use 1 app
You can splice the data wire to multiple zones and control up to 1024 leds on one controller. So in short make multiple leads coming off your controller to each zone
Thanks for the help. I ordered the controller and hope it works with my light stick I lost the controller to. Blue tooth is the cats ass, I will do one of those next.
No problem feel free to reach out with any other questions you have
Love your ideas...what do you use for the antenna it's not listed
5150 day whips. I mentioned them in both of my videos. You can also use any 3/8th inch fiberglass whip.
@@MrRICKDAWG4444 thanks I have built several for friends but was having trouble getting a module to last more than a few months.
@@MrRICKDAWG4444 have you ever tried to wire a controller with 4 wires to 3 wire lights ?
@@carlgrimm3553 Yes I have. The 4th wire is a clocking wire. What controller are you using that only last a couple of months?
You said you had clear packing tape..how did you use that.? Wrapped the lights with it then shrink wrap over it?
I use that to secure the top down and if I'm making a whip where I'm soldering extra strips together to hold the silicone from splitting more since I have to cut it to solder it.
One more question..on the controller it self you added wires for the 12v..which one is the hot and which one is ground..or does it matter?
@@jevsrt it's usually labeled on both the controllers and leds.
So I've been building these whips inspired by you man for friends and family! I've found that if you don't wrap them super tight as in holding the strip and winding it so tight they tend to not want to crack as bad!
Definitely. It's just weird how different batches of strips will do it and others won't. Sounds like a quality control problem BTF needs to work out one day.
So I been building the light whips you made in your first video and I've tried to build these new and improved ones and I can't seem to get them to work!! They power on but the after a min or so the controller bugs Out and stops working! I've went through 3 controllers now! Any advice??
@@richardjaynes637 do you have a good power supply? They need sold power or they freak out
I use the DC power cable 12v 5a to supply power off of a rzr battery
So if your saying they need a good power supply I'm assuming the barrel connector and the 5amp that I'm using isn't sufficient enough?
My brother-in-law and sister got their first UTV (2022 Can-Am Defender) and I was gonna buy them some light whips as a gift. After searching at a bunch of different brands I came across your video and very glad I did! Looks like these will be MUCH better than anything I’ve seen for sale. Have everything ordered, and have it all except the Day Whips from 5150. Hope they hurry up already!!! I do have a question though, where would you recommend to put/hide the LED controller on the UTV?
I usually put them in the area close to the switches and fuses since it's already dry there for the most part
@@MrRICKDAWG4444 ahhh ok. For some reason I was picturing installing them at the base of the whips. Thanks for the reply man! And even more for the helpful videos!!!
You could install them at the base of the whip or anywhere you want that's the beauty of making them yourself. The choice is yours.
Where do you get your whips?
I build off of 5150's day whips to start
Is it possible to modify this method to make 2 whips and underglow strips for a truck
Yes did you watch the part of the video where I explained how to sync two whips together. The same applies to underglow just make more leads off the controller for each thing your going to run.
That's what I had in mind perfect thank you much.
Your welcome let me know if you got anymore questions along your build process.
@@MrRICKDAWG4444 have you ever tried to to build whips using a different chipset. The reason I ask is i would like these to match the current rgbw rock lights i currently have. Also the controller you suggested is out of stock.
@@thanehardy2402 you can use rgbw however you lose alot of cool functions like chase patterns. That controller is almost never out of stock. Search for sp110e
When I click the amazon link for the shrink tubing it brings up the .25" Diameter I'm assuming this is not the right one? It seems way too small
There should be a drop down somewhere there to choose a size. If not it might be temporarily out of stock.
@@MrRICKDAWG4444 what is the correct size for this application.
@@superbeastie I use 3/4 - 7/8 but you can get away with 1" if it's 3to1 shrink rate
How can I go about buying one from you for my sand rail
Are you local to Beaumont CA.
I finally completed one 7.5’ whip, turned out good but I had a problem with the waterproof connection I soldered on at the beginning, the copper pads kept wanting to peel of when I was trying to wrap it. Have u ever had that problem, it’s like it was too stiff to bend? Also I used the 18 gauge (large) waterproof connector and I think I should’ve used 22 gauge. Do u use all 22 gauge connectors and wiring? I’m happy with the final result but I’m worried about the the wires coming of the led strip and where I soldered the two strips together being the weak points, hopefully I don’t have issues later on. Thank u
The beginning wrap sometimes can be tricky the 18awg wire will be better you just need to form it around the whip whiles all the hot glue and shrink wrap is still warm then secure it with electrical tape. Have faith in your solder points up the whip those tend to be really strong even if they don't look the best.
@@MrRICKDAWG4444 thanks I appreciate all the help, your response times are incredibly fast lol.
@@nikkibohanon5136 no problem, let me know if you have further questions.
I had the same problem but I wasn't using Flux then I started using Flux and it fixed that problem
link for lights has option for 60 led/meter and 30 led/meter, I think previously u recommended the 30 is that correct? Thank u
I only run the 60/meters now. However you can use either if you don't want as many leds.
@@MrRICKDAWG4444 couple more quick questions, u find the BTF lights to be superior to other brands on Amazon and have u heard of anyone securing 1/2” polycarbonate tubing over the whip before wrapping it to increase whip diameter and decrease potential for silicone splitting? Thanks, I really appreciate the info.
@@nikkibohanon5136 I've only ever had one led go bad with the BTF strips and that was just the blue in one RGB chip so I stick with them. If you're looking for something a bit thicker I've used thick shrink wrap over the whip before wrapping it. You could also use alotive brand leds because they have a much thicker double sided tape on the strips. However be aware that the thicker you go will change how the leds spiral up the whip. Some people like the spiral and some not as much. Take a look at this picture the one on the left is wrapped on a thicker whip.
imgur.com/gallery/cBPmaxy
@@MrRICKDAWG4444 nice I’ll order BTF then, thanks again
@@nikkibohanon5136 no problem.
Coming out of the controller..are wires power and ground?
Basically power comes from the relay and then just ground the other wire for the controller.
Yes power and ground go to the controller then power, ground, and data go to the whip.
I got a little ahead of myself! Once I looked at the controller I saw the +\- .
Thanks for the reply, I look forward to seeing more videos
@@21turbos10 no problem be sure and check out part 1 if you haven't already.
From your experience DMAX909..what signs have you seen out of a bad controller? Other then the obvious it just doesn’t work.
I had mine working great( sp110e ) and I went to tie in my other wires for the other whip and didn’t realize the power and ground were still connected to my Milwaukee battery..DOH!!!.. now I just get a flicker out of the led’s and that’s it.
@@21turbos10 the good news here is controllers are cheap and easy to test. Unfortunately I need more information on your particular situation like are you still running the 5.5 plug or did you hard wire that like in the video? Is your Milwaukee battery 12v or more? There is a couple of variables I need to more about before I could say for sure.
The black shrink tubing what do you use?? I found everything but that.. thanks a million
It's 1" 3to1 adhesive lined
@@MrRICKDAWG4444 have u had bad sey of lights? I've gotten two sets and the first half works good and the second half either doesn't work or does funky stuff
I haven't, what type of leds are you using?
@@MrRICKDAWG4444 the btf 60 led ones in ur description
Are they WS2811 chips?
Have you had good luck with that controller?
I haven't had any problems with the ones I've used. However I've heard others that have had problems but I can't say for sure that wasn't operator error or bad craftsmanship on their part.
Pity we can’t get the same LED’s in the U.K.
All my searches just show as being from Shenzhen and asking any questions, "we no unnerstand kwestzion”
I don't really want the bt model. Have you cut the barrel plug off the Rf model to see if you can hardwire it instead of the barrel plug?
Yes I have its basicallythe same process. However if you're in a busy area with alot of people the RF/remote controller will give you alot of issues staying on the same color/setting you want it on due to the same frequency crossing by your whip.
Got everything put together. Connected to the sp1103e but it won't change colors?
Maybe your app or phone needs a update.
Phone and app are up to date. Even bought another controller. I am using Android
I have it ran straight to 12v should I put a lower amp fuse on it
You would be better off using a potting compound. Almost all silicone sealents are acidic and coroad electrical compoinets long term. The silicone dielectric grease is different altogether.
You may find a urethane sealant like LEXEL as easy to work with and it does not have the problems that silicone does.
Good to know thanks for the info.
Are you making these to sell? Interested for sure.
I have in the past for locals however shipping is around $50 for a 6ft box
@@MrRICKDAWG4444 I was actually looking at 5150 2ft whips. 6ft way too tall for where I ride.
@@ukwildcats09 I could probably ship those for alot cheaper. If by chance you live in Southern California in the riverside area you could avoid shipping all together.
@@MrRICKDAWG4444 man I’m in Kentucky. Ha ha
@@ukwildcats09 well hell that puts local delivery out of the picture. Lol
You ever have a controller crap out? Mine was working great now it just flashes white once and won’t work
I've had the little controllers crap out on me but not the Bluetooth ones. The only problem I have with those is the 5.5mm barrel plug not making a solid connection and glitches out that's why I eliminate that and hardwire it.
@@MrRICKDAWG4444 maybe the 5.5 barrel plug is my issue. I will follow your suggestion
@@joshuadereu7967 I'm not sure the application you have it on but something to note is vibration since inside those controllers the motherboard isn't glued down and can bounce around inside. After you split it open and hard wire it waterproof it and seal it all back up inside the case with silicone.
@@MrRICKDAWG4444 mine is just on a whip on my rv flag. It’s weird it worked fine for a few hours now it won’t connect I half way think it’s the cigarette lighter plug it’s plugged into on the rv
@@joshuadereu7967 it could be the cigarette lighter plug. Almost every problem I've ever had with any of these controllers stims from the power source not being tight enough. You could be running into a issue with resistance if your camp locator is up real high and your pulling alot of amps at the top with small awg wires especially since the barrel plug wires are stupid small inside it acts like a choke point and create heat instead of powering the leds efficiency.
Nice job bro.. I want one for a flag pole for my toy hauler do you make one?
Sure do
@@MrRICKDAWG4444 👍 how could I get one? Instagram?
@@mariomarquez9263 Dmax909
Hi how can I fix my whip it broke just above the clip wear it mounts? I got them off of Amazon I didn’t buy the warranty and I can’t get a hold of the company doesn’t have a phone number to call them and ask them if I can purses just one not another pair! Thank you Raul Ortega
Idk without seeing the exact whips you have.
@@MrRICKDAWG4444 I’ll send a picture of it this i what try to do too fix it but it didn’t work
@@MrRICKDAWG4444 How do I upload a video to you
You have to turn them into a link for me to be able see them in you tube. I use the "imgur" app
@@MrRICKDAWG4444 I made a video of it we’re do I go too upload so I can send it to you
Ok. I’d like one these! 😎👍🏼 shoot me over some information on how to get ahold of you and pay you.
So built the whip using a 5150 day whip 4 ft. It came out fine. Works great, but wouldn't do it again. Wasn't hard worked just as you instructed. The problem I am having is I need to attach the 5150 whip base to a antenna spring so it has less of a chance of getting snapped off. The 5150 comes with 1/2 x 13 universal course threaded bolt or basically normal 1/2 " threaded bolt. Most spring you can buy that are 1/2 " are 1/2 x 20 or fine thread. So my 5150 will not work with most spring mounts. Other than buying a tap and die set to redo the threads I will have to mount the whip solid to my ATV. So if you have any ideas on this please let me know. Most people just mount these solid to their units. I wanted a little flexibility Ha.
Honestly I've seen these things bend completely in half without snapping. However if you can find the old style quick release like I used in the first whip making video those use 1/2 × 20 threaded studs. Unfortunately I believe they discontinued that style though so you might need to find a used one for that. Re tapping the magnetic mount will probably be your best bet and since your threading it into a spring mount I would just drill the treads out completely and just slide the 1/2 × 20 bolt through the hole and tighten into the spring mount since the threads aren't really important in this scenario.
Hey bud, thanks for the awesome videos! Watched them both like a month ago and was super excited to do this project myself. Ordered everything off your list and was sent an "upgraded" controller (SP611E) from Amazon that came with an IR remote. I wanted to keep my build the same as yours so I ended up ordering the 110E controller directly from BTF, and had them shipped from good ole Chyna. After waiting a little over a month for them to show up, I find out BTF's app hasn't been updated in forever and isn't compatible with the new version of Android, so I can't control it from my phone.
Was wondering if you or any of your customers ran into this problem with the app? Are you using a different app, or have you changed to controlling everything with an IR remote?
Sorry for the long message, and thanks for your time!
Honestly I only ever had one problem with the app not working and it was due to the phone needing an update. However I haven't built any whips or even ran one in a while so I can't say for sure I'll try to look into when I get home and see if I can find something for you.