I didn't understand that old lock style.🤔 Maybe it's a fire regulation to only have a thumbturn on the inside but just smashing the glass would seem so easy to get in. I guess each country & state would have their own laws on this. 🍺😎
I’m always afraid of re-boring using my jig. Chalk it up to lack of practice (only 13 years doing this lol)? My go-to is an oops arbor and a 1.5” hole saw as a guide (or even a 1 5/8” I’ve seen). Ensures a centred hole and avoids the infamous jig-slip!
pmlarocque I’ve always wondered about those but what happens with not correctly centered holes. Seems to me it would drill it out even more off center. Example, one hole drilled at 2 1/4, after the oops bore you would be off that much & with a larger hole that could leave a sliver of exposed hole, especially with for instance Schlage b60 with the crazy small OS diameter which leaves little margin of error.
SE Lock and Key I haven’t run into that situation yet, but I definitely see what you mean. Ive also had some success with pushing in my 1” holesaw through the latch bore just to keep the jig from moving around. I know, I too like to live dangerously! Thank goodness for Don-Jo!
you have to get a carbide rotary rasp & even up the holes before you use the double hole saw approach. had to do this exact installation the other day with a schlage b571. so no option for drivebolt.
@@selock This is a great observation. Using an oops arbor might compound the error if the hole does not have the correct backspace because the larger hole is concentric with the smaller hole. The jig can actually locate the new hole correctly. The problem with the jigs is that most of them use only one hole saw size for the facebore 2-1/8, the other problem you have to be very careful when clamping the jig on a bevel edge to accurately locate the new hole. Try the backset jig by Major HIT23 its the simpler and cheaper device that works well. ESP has a similar device korrect a bore, though not as HD as Major's.
I confess, I complained about the last time you used the squeeze play. Still complaining get a box end wrench and keep it on the chain with the tool. Always good information and the humor keeps me coming back. Thanks Jason.
Thanks for posting this. I've been looking for this tool all day because there's no easy descriptive words to find this tool. What happens if you use this on a door with center seam? All the doors that I service right now have that dang seam.
NuKey Jarom I’ve never braved it, that would be an expensive mess up :) The inner part of the tool has a ledge to offset the seam on one side on the inside so I imagine without that it would sit uneven. Center seam will just always require cutout & bracket or drive in. Be sure and check out this video too (the latest one with the Squeeze Play) th-cam.com/video/Oe_nLiIoDqE/w-d-xo.html
Jason, I have some technical questions. Is that a bi-metal or carbide tip holesaw and is it safe to use the hammer-drill mode for what you are doing? Thanks. The reason I'm asking is I bought me a MIlwaukee cordless 18v drill and kinda clueless on what mode to use sometimes. Also, it came with a two 3amp batteries should I save up for the 5amp battery?
Note... I am Not criticizing or critiquing your work here... Judging by the door needing a paint job I would have taken the closer arm loose and then propped the door open as far as possible to get out of the way... Then I would have brought out my welder and re welded the Hinge reinforcement back in the proper place... I had to do this with nearly fifty out of three hundred doors for a (portable classroom)relocation project at a school district during a summer some years ago... The district wanted a fix without replacing the Jambs... Hollow Metal door repair is not that bad once you have done it a time or two... My welder of choice is the Millermatic 130 wire feed... Portable and light enough not to pop breakers(120v)... Cutting in latch face mortises is easy with a Die Grinder and a three inch by one thirty second cut wheels... Providing the holes lined up, Instead of using your boring jig you could have used a second smaller hole saw that would of fit inside the original hole example 1-5/8” to nest inside the 2-1/8” hole saw (using the same Arbor)you were using to bore the new hole size to... The 1-5/8” hole saw would have self centered into the Existing hole and used as a guide for your larger hole saw... After watching you do your “punch and die technic and drill for the 8/32 screws” for the deadbolt latch I could not watch anymore... Sorry...
It’s a Knipex. It’ll be ok.
where can i get that tool that you used to make the latch to fit
I say great info!!!! Use what tool you have available that gets the job done.
"Southern Engineering"
Thanks for sharing!!😉
I didn't understand that old lock style.🤔 Maybe it's a fire regulation to only have a thumbturn on the inside but just smashing the glass would seem so easy to get in. I guess each country & state would have their own laws on this. 🍺😎
Knew "squeeze play" sounded familiar.
I would have taken one of the middle 2 and swapped it… why does it need 4 hinges?
I just replaced a La Gard key pad on a restaurant safe, talk about goo. 🤢
I’m always afraid of re-boring using my jig. Chalk it up to lack of practice (only 13 years doing this lol)? My go-to is an oops arbor and a 1.5” hole saw as a guide (or even a 1 5/8” I’ve seen). Ensures a centred hole and avoids the infamous jig-slip!
pmlarocque I’ve always wondered about those but what happens with not correctly centered holes. Seems to me it would drill it out even more off center. Example, one hole drilled at 2 1/4, after the oops bore you would be off that much & with a larger hole that could leave a sliver of exposed hole, especially with for instance Schlage b60 with the crazy small OS diameter which leaves little margin of error.
SE Lock and Key I haven’t run into that situation yet, but I definitely see what you mean. Ive also had some success with pushing in my 1” holesaw through the latch bore just to keep the jig from moving around. I know, I too like to live dangerously!
Thank goodness for Don-Jo!
you have to get a carbide rotary rasp & even up the holes before you use the double hole saw approach.
had to do this exact installation the other day with a schlage b571. so no option for drivebolt.
@@selock This is a great observation. Using an oops arbor might compound the error if the hole does not have the correct backspace because the larger hole is concentric with the smaller hole. The jig can actually locate the new hole correctly. The problem with the jigs is that most of them use only one hole saw size for the facebore 2-1/8, the other problem you have to be very careful when clamping the jig on a bevel edge to accurately locate the new hole.
Try the backset jig by Major HIT23 its the simpler and cheaper device that works well. ESP has a similar device korrect a bore, though not as HD as Major's.
I confess, I complained about the last time you used the squeeze play. Still complaining get a box end wrench and keep it on the chain with the tool. Always good information and the humor keeps me coming back. Thanks Jason.
great video!!!👍 but edit parts that are focusing on the job, you are contributing a lot to the community, thanks!
Drill from high side metal door when using squeeze play on beveled door edge, Drill from low side wood door when chiseling mortise bolt in.
Upvote because of Knipex use!
yeah those bulldogs really come in handy
Thanks for posting this. I've been looking for this tool all day because there's no easy descriptive words to find this tool. What happens if you use this on a door with center seam? All the doors that I service right now have that dang seam.
NuKey Jarom I’ve never braved it, that would be an expensive mess up :)
The inner part of the tool has a ledge to offset the seam on one side on the inside so I imagine without that it would sit uneven. Center seam will just always require cutout & bracket or drive in. Be sure and check out this video too (the latest one with the Squeeze Play) th-cam.com/video/Oe_nLiIoDqE/w-d-xo.html
Jason, I have some technical questions. Is that a bi-metal or carbide tip holesaw and is it safe to use the hammer-drill mode for what you are doing? Thanks. The reason I'm asking is I bought me a MIlwaukee cordless 18v drill and kinda clueless on what mode to use sometimes. Also, it came with a two 3amp batteries should I save up for the 5amp battery?
Ken _ hammer drill only concrete. Standard Milwaukee holesaw :)
Ken _ That was not on the hammer drill mode... Use “Only” the Drill mode...
interesting video. i enjoyed it. thanks for sharing.
What is the purpose of the clamps?? Will the door face deform without them?
Jim Jones yes, it has happened on me before. It wasn’t pretty. I’ve never not used clamps after that
Note... I am Not criticizing or critiquing your work here... Judging by the door needing a paint job I would have taken the closer arm loose and then propped the door open as far as possible to get out of the way... Then I would have brought out my welder and re welded the Hinge reinforcement back in the proper place... I had to do this with nearly fifty out of three hundred doors for a (portable classroom)relocation project at a school district during a summer some years ago... The district wanted a fix without replacing the Jambs... Hollow Metal door repair is not that bad once you have done it a time or two... My welder of choice is the Millermatic 130 wire feed... Portable and light enough not to pop breakers(120v)... Cutting in latch face mortises is easy with a Die Grinder and a three inch by one thirty second cut wheels... Providing the holes lined up, Instead of using your boring jig you could have used a second smaller hole saw that would of fit inside the original hole example 1-5/8” to nest inside the 2-1/8” hole saw (using the same Arbor)you were using to bore the new hole size to... The 1-5/8” hole saw would have self centered into the Existing hole and used as a guide for your larger hole saw... After watching you do your “punch and die technic and drill for the 8/32 screws” for the deadbolt latch I could not watch anymore... Sorry...