New subscriber 😎 Can’t wait to see this engine build. I found the kent block to have miss aligned cam tunnel. I had custom bearings made aligned to the line honed crank. Reduces the bad rocker gear wear, with shimmed valve springs. I dowelled the head to the block first. The head to block bolt holes are also misaligned from factory. Next was piano wire o-ringed head and receiver groove block deck with copper head gasket. I could go on and on😂😂 I built it in the mid/late 90’s, for my mk1 escort 😎🤜🏼🤛🏼🇦🇺🍀
Thanks for watching and thanks for the subscription! some great tips there, this was one of the areas of focus when we were choosing which blocks to use and which ones to bin.
Thanks for watching! they are a ripper little engine when they are on the money and super reliable if the gearstick operator keeps it within the RPM range.
I'm loving your series of videos, thank you for your efforts. Oil grade advice please. I have a Lotus 7 replica with the Kent engine. The service sticker shows the oil used is Penrite 20w 60 Full Zinc, is this a good choice or are there better options. Engine history is unknown but oil pressure sits about 55 and coolant about 80. Cheers from NZ.
Thanks for watching and great question, these have zero baffle in them which allows the oil to return direct to the dry sump. INCASE the oil is too thick or cold and fills the rocker cover at high RPM.
Very interesting session shame it was not in great nick Have one of these to build soon though it’s a Cosworth based setup non Xflow head on twin 45s You mentioned pulling the springs out of the oil seals , were compression and oil control ring specs free or controlled?? Be keen to see the rebuild
stay tuned, the assembly of this engine isn't far away! Rings were free but all rings had to be fitted to the piston. Yes we would remove the small spring from inside the front and rear crankshaft oil seals to reduce the tension/friction on the crankshaft. Oil leaks weren't a concern as it has a dry sump.
New subscriber 😎
Can’t wait to see this engine build.
I found the kent block to have miss aligned cam tunnel. I had custom bearings made aligned to the line honed crank.
Reduces the bad rocker gear wear, with shimmed valve springs. I dowelled the head to the block first. The head to block bolt holes are also misaligned from factory.
Next was piano wire o-ringed head and receiver groove block deck with copper head gasket.
I could go on and on😂😂
I built it in the mid/late 90’s, for my mk1 escort 😎🤜🏼🤛🏼🇦🇺🍀
Thanks for watching and thanks for the subscription! some great tips there, this was one of the areas of focus when we were choosing which blocks to use and which ones to bin.
That sux about the engine. Bloody interesting though learning about the black art of getting the old Kent engine tuned and relatively reliable.
Thanks for watching! they are a ripper little engine when they are on the money and super reliable if the gearstick operator keeps it within the RPM range.
Yes, a thin oil will produce more net power at the flywheel, but only up to the point where it compromises ring seal versus a higher viscosity oil.
Well said and thanks for watching
I'm loving your series of videos, thank you for your efforts. Oil grade advice please. I have a Lotus 7 replica with the Kent engine. The service sticker shows the oil used is Penrite 20w 60 Full Zinc, is this a good choice or are there better options. Engine history is unknown but oil pressure sits about 55 and coolant about 80. Cheers from NZ.
Thanks for watching! yep, 20w50 full zinc is on the money. Obviously we would recommend KCK RE11 20w50 full zinc.
Is there a restriction or washer put on the rocker cover vent hole to stop oil ?
Thanks for watching and great question, these have zero baffle in them which allows the oil to return direct to the dry sump. INCASE the oil is too thick or cold and fills the rocker cover at high RPM.
Very interesting session shame it was not in great nick
Have one of these to build soon though it’s a Cosworth based setup non Xflow head on twin 45s
You mentioned pulling the springs out of the oil seals , were compression and oil control ring specs free or controlled??
Be keen to see the rebuild
stay tuned, the assembly of this engine isn't far away! Rings were free but all rings had to be fitted to the piston. Yes we would remove the small spring from inside the front and rear crankshaft oil seals to reduce the tension/friction on the crankshaft. Oil leaks weren't a concern as it has a dry sump.
@@KCKLubricants looking forward to it!!