Now I'm more confused than ever. Which is the best type to use ? Which one works best on different surfaces ? What is the difference between lime mortar and plaster ? What's the best one for covering straw bales with ? This could have been a lot more in depth
you have to spray it on to straw and i would use nhl 2 or 3.5, the more movement the lower the number, if its a really damp place or granite building then use 5. the putty id just plaster and those are for top coats only. hurl, doub scratch coat, float coat coat of lime putty and the pure lime puty to finish. when he says stronger it is literally that, its harder on the wall when its dry, 5 is stronger but less durable, good for hard stone, 3.5
The part of state in which I live has natural limestone. This is beneficial because is filters our water in our aquifer. The drawback is it leaves a white residue in your showers, sink, dishwasher, and pretty much anything is constant contact with. Harmless to us but it leaves that white, powdery residue.
more info pleaseeee :) Lke when to use what? im trying to learn what to use to replace cement pointing that is causing damage on my victorian red brick house
@James Nolan Thank you so much for this! I was also considering wether to work with hydrated hydraulic lime that is commonly sold in stores and had my suspections that it isnt any more breathable then cement. Only question that remains is wheter non hydraulic lime can be bought in dried form (and how to recognise it when all the limes sold have "hydrated" @sticked to them regardless of are they pure limeston or impure) and is it inferior compared to putty?
thanks a lot for sharing! it's cool. please can you mak a vid about receipe of sculptural plaster for making faux stoe effect? please! thanks for answering
I have a question. I will be using an NHL5 lime mortar. I'm restoring an old stone pathway in an exposed, damp area. How long will it take to dry? I may need to protect it from rainfall for a few days?
@@Sidneyirvinggrosberg If I burn a bag of charcoal, is the remaining ash considered a pozzolan? Also, if I just crush a clay brick to a fine dust, would that be considered a clay pozzolan?
@@WallaceRoseVincent Very finely crushed and sifted low fire (old) brick is a mild pozzolan. There is a clay one scientifically designed called Metakaolin. A fine pumice pozzolan is called DENSIFIER325™ STANDARD POZZ and is based on the principles that gave us Roman Cement, probably the longest lasting cementitious product ever.
Interesting, albeit short video. Can you advise thus: I'm back filling and repointing an 120 yr old garden wall. Mortar appears to be of sand and earth. Started using St Astier 3.5. I'm fearing this is too strong. Should I start using NHL 2, and will the setting time be more than 28 days if I do? Thanks.
Channels that do not read and reply to comments SUCK. Besides, this guy didnt explain how they are harder...Dolomite is used. He didnt explain anything but show difference of powder and solid. Sad really.
Hi - I'm looking at sensible alternatives to adding texture to some 40cm x 60cm art canvases but the cost of texture paste is, for me at least, exorbitant. Can you suggest a lime powder or putty which wouldn't cause too many problems, such as poor drying, problems with mixing and/or drying, poor adhesion to the canvas, (all primed), severe cracking etc... Could I use some PVA glue to add to it to keep it chemically stable and a bit more solid and yet flexible to allow for flexing of the canvas? How would I mix it? How long would it take to dry? *I'd not be using sand etc, but could I use some other powder to make it better or easier to work with or stronger or something? What other materials could I mix it with to aid its suitability for the 50 or so canvases I'll be working on? Will it (when dry) take paint and then a final, thin coat of water-based varnish? I hope you don't think I'm being too demanding for info,. I just don't want just paint on a canvas - it's far too boring; it needs texture, lots of texture (manually patterned or natural). :) Thanks in advance for at least reading this. :)
Kris A hey! Though I'm not the person who posted the video- I have a few comments on what you're asking... I honestly think lime is not the material you're after... It has a ph of 11... Very caustic so I'd imagine it's far from archival.... The hydroxides in lime could also mess up the curing of your paint by saponifying the pild in your paint ( or in the casr of acrylics messing with your binder etc. If you're looking for a cheap filler to add body to paints I'd look at other more inert powders... Try whiting, maybe gypsum or plaster of Paris may work, especially for oils I'd imagine... You'd Lao want something that's not a pigment like zinc oxide or titanium dioxide unless your goal is to make white.... Good luck!
it would eat the canvas, it eats my work gloves, it eats my skin, its often eats my eyeballs, it eats my work boots, it eats through copper pipes, it eats through dead bodies.
All NHL lime is terrible for restoration of old buildings or for brickwork, mortar, plaster, render. It is best to use lime putty made from quicklime. All the misinformation about NHL put on the internet by those invested in NHL. ONLY new buildings that will ONLY have lime or hard stone should use NHL.
Now I'm more confused than ever. Which is the best type to use ? Which one works best on different surfaces ? What is the difference between lime mortar and plaster ? What's the best one for covering straw bales with ? This could have been a lot more in depth
you have to spray it on to straw and i would use nhl 2 or 3.5, the more movement the lower the number, if its a really damp place or granite building then use 5. the putty id just plaster and those are for top coats only. hurl, doub scratch coat, float coat coat of lime putty and the pure lime puty to finish. when he says stronger it is literally that, its harder on the wall when its dry, 5 is stronger but less durable, good for hard stone, 3.5
@@funkeybikemonkey thanks for the post m8
Stick to air lime. NHL is the devils work and far too hard.
The part of state in which I live has natural limestone. This is beneficial because is filters our water in our aquifer. The drawback is it leaves a white residue in your showers, sink, dishwasher, and pretty much anything is constant contact with. Harmless to us but it leaves that white, powdery residue.
Nah dats cocaine bruh
White vinegar or citric acid does wonders
@ I do use that over CLR because vinegar is nontoxic.
I enjoy listening to this man
Me too.....I want to just watch it over and over to listen to him !
Can you speak to the condition of using high calcium vs dolomitic hydrated lime to make lime putty?
more info pleaseeee :) Lke when to use what? im trying to learn what to use to replace cement pointing that is causing damage on my victorian red brick house
Hydrated is sold powder form also ????
I've seen hay near the hydraulic lime... Isnt it harmful?
Can you use the lime for animal bedding?
which type of lime can you add to soil to make a soil roof waterproof? and what percentage ratios would you use?
What a fantastic explanation thanks
Yes, articulate and totally clear 💯
So Rhino powdered hydrated lime - please explain how could use on stone - as it is described as pure lime.
But what’s the difference between the 3 types of Hydraulic Limes and their properties and uses?
Thanks
@James Nolan Thank you so much for this! I was also considering wether to work with hydrated hydraulic lime that is commonly sold in stores and had my suspections that it isnt any more breathable then cement.
Only question that remains is wheter non hydraulic lime can be bought in dried form (and how to recognise it when all the limes sold have "hydrated" @sticked to them regardless of are they pure limeston or impure) and is it inferior compared to putty?
thanks a lot for sharing! it's cool. please can you mak a vid about receipe of sculptural plaster for making faux stoe effect? please!
thanks for answering
Can you paint over NHL 3.5?
Is this from fruit lime?
I want to build a wall which type of lime should I use .?
Well done!
I have a question. I will be using an NHL5 lime mortar. I'm restoring an old stone pathway in an exposed, damp area. How long will it take to dry? I may need to protect it from rainfall for a few days?
Can you add impurities to lime putty and give it similar properties to hydraulic lime 3.5?
You can. Volcanic or clay pozzolans. Google it and you'll go down that rabbit hole.
@@Sidneyirvinggrosberg If I burn a bag of charcoal, is the remaining ash considered a pozzolan? Also, if I just crush a clay brick to a fine dust, would that be considered a clay pozzolan?
@@WallaceRoseVincent Very finely crushed and sifted low fire (old) brick is a mild pozzolan. There is a clay one scientifically designed called Metakaolin. A fine pumice pozzolan is called DENSIFIER325™ STANDARD POZZ and is based on the principles that gave us Roman Cement, probably the longest lasting cementitious product ever.
Interesting, albeit short video. Can you advise thus: I'm back filling and repointing an 120 yr old garden wall. Mortar appears to be of sand and earth. Started using St Astier 3.5. I'm fearing this is too strong. Should I start using NHL 2, and will the setting time be more than 28 days if I do?
Thanks.
Channels that do not read and reply to comments SUCK. Besides, this guy didnt explain how they are harder...Dolomite is used. He didnt explain anything but show difference of powder and solid. Sad really.
Hi - I'm looking at sensible alternatives to adding texture to some 40cm x 60cm art canvases but the cost of texture paste is, for me at least, exorbitant. Can you suggest a lime powder or putty which wouldn't cause too many problems, such as poor drying, problems with mixing and/or drying, poor adhesion to the canvas, (all primed), severe cracking etc... Could I use some PVA glue to add to it to keep it chemically stable and a bit more solid and yet flexible to allow for flexing of the canvas? How would I mix it? How long would it take to dry? *I'd not be using sand etc, but could I use some other powder to make it better or easier to work with or stronger or something? What other materials could I mix it with to aid its suitability for the 50 or so canvases I'll be working on? Will it (when dry) take paint and then a final, thin coat of water-based varnish?
I hope you don't think I'm being too demanding for info,. I just don't want just paint on a canvas - it's far too boring; it needs texture, lots of texture (manually patterned or natural). :)
Thanks in advance for at least reading this. :)
Kris A hey! Though I'm not the person who posted the video- I have a few comments on what you're asking... I honestly think lime is not the material you're after... It has a ph of 11... Very caustic so I'd imagine it's far from archival.... The hydroxides in lime could also mess up the curing of your paint by saponifying the pild in your paint ( or in the casr of acrylics messing with your binder etc. If you're looking for a cheap filler to add body to paints I'd look at other more inert powders... Try whiting, maybe gypsum or plaster of Paris may work, especially for oils I'd imagine... You'd Lao want something that's not a pigment like zinc oxide or titanium dioxide unless your goal is to make white.... Good luck!
it would eat the canvas, it eats my work gloves, it eats my skin, its often eats my eyeballs, it eats my work boots, it eats through copper pipes, it eats through dead bodies.
What is synthetic lime?
All NHL lime is terrible for restoration of old buildings or for brickwork, mortar, plaster, render. It is best to use lime putty made from quicklime. All the misinformation about NHL put on the internet by those invested in NHL. ONLY new buildings that will ONLY have lime or hard stone should use NHL.
What about the lime in my tequila 🤷