Great process for those who only use a hose. The contamination was up there and required a lot of patience to remove. I cannot wait to see if the paint requires a two step or one step polish but I know it will be stunning! Thank you for the fun video!
Love the wash and talk style of video. Great that you explain the problems as you come across them. I was really impressed with your water spot remover. I use it in winter to help clean the clogged lower panels of my ceramic coated vehicles. I’ll have to try the sap remover next.
Here is a question whenypi are doing dilution ratios in a large ik foamer. what is the total voume of water and product are you using. So example the all clean 15 to 1. How many onces of water to All clean. Especially since ypu dont want to fill up the foamer with wather Either. So how much water do you typically use Ivan in the ik Foam pro 12?
I used your clay towel today with incredible suds followed with iron remover - all DIY detail products. After done, I rinsed the towel well with lots of water. The clay side is now all sticky. What’s up with that?
This is the New technology. Rinseless the best. I have to admit as weekender Warrior or soldier or waterver you call. For example cheap shampoo need 3-4 capful. 5 wash you must buy another. With ONR or other rinseless i can do better job.
I’ve done a few of those “haven’t washed it in 5 years” type vehicles with a ton of buildup on the horizontal surfaces. I wash those areas with the flag tipped brush to get the looser bits then clay with iron remover for a smooth, glossy result
Another amazing video - just seeing an entire process doesn’t get old. I am wondering what I will be watching next year…. You going to keep coming out with these great informative videos?? Keep up the great work
using 4 oz of incredible sids and one-gallon of water? you should be getting a ton of foam!! you guys might want to change the actual tip and yes go slower👍
it's essentially one ounce for your 32 oz foam cannon, only you're going to get better foam from an MJJC for example. but yes slow and steady gets you real good foam:)
I’d be very interested in trying your products for our sons detailing business if your shipping costs get better. He’s 16 and watches every penny he spends on products. These products look great and maybe eventually we can buy into them for him in the future. He’s been detailing with a pretty decent clientele for about a year now and his customer base is growing. Thank you and keep up the great work.
We pay for the shipping on orders over $150. Also many of our distributors offer shipping when a certain size order is placed. Https://diydetail.com/pages/distributors
@@diydetailofficial well, at 16 running his own business wanting to try your clay towel, Quick Beads and Iron Remover…that’s not 150 dollars. Maybe in time he can buy into your products. A lot of these products would benefit a lot of ppl if they were available in retail areas/stores like hundreds of others. Thanks.
I’ve been using their products for months so might I suggest products the young man may want to start with. Decon towel for sure, All Clean(gallon), Incredible Suds(gallon), Rinseless Wash, Water Spot Remover. The rest can be added later. Iron Remover is nice but not totally necessary(and smells like pure crap😂). They also have other tools that are a great help like their brushes. As he gets more accomplished their polished system of pads and Gold Standard are very very good. When he really gets going then using all of their coatings are great and I use them every week.
I have Kia Seltos in Glacier White Pearl color. Bro, if I want to polish my car, should I use carnauba wax or metallic polish for buffing? Which one should I use first and last? I want to remove swirl marks, minor scratches and want to get a complete gloss as well as saturation over the paint. And also suggest which pad should I use for both of them. I would be delighted for your reply. 😃
I would polish using DIY Detail Gold Standard Polish, and our yellow waffle pad, then follow that with one of our ceramic coatings for long lasting protection.
Do you take suggestions for new products? An all-in-one decon spray would be brilliant. You use iron fallout remover with the clay towel so that cuts 2 steps into 1, well carpro has trix which removes iron fallout and tar so this used with the claybar would be 3 steps in 1. There's just 1 step missing....water spot & mineral remover. My suggestion is could you make an all-in-one product that removes iron fallout, tar, and water spots, a product that you could use with the clay towel and cut 4 steps down to 1 saving lots of time and money on multiple products? Complete decon done in 1 easy step would be a detailers dream
That’s would be our dream as well. Unfortunately though the chemistry doesn’t add up. Tar/ adhesive removers are damaging to clay and synthetic clay products, and are solvents. Iron removers are PH neutral and waterborne, finally Waterspot removers are acidic.
@@diydetailofficial that's a shame. I thought there may be a way around it if we let the clever science guys figure it out. I'm sure there will be better options in the future especially given all the advancements in detailing that have been achieved in the last decade or two.
After the wash? Probably just spray iron remover on, let it sit and dwell and gently rinse off. See what's left, be gentle. If you use the towel on the rust spots it can really mess up the towel so just use common sense
In what other ways can I remove bug marks, tree sap and water spots by not using any decontaminating agents? Can I use a petrol or a diesel to clean them off?
We would never recommend using that, but some professionals (we also don’t recommend) use paint thinner or wheel acid for stubborn water spots or materials on paint, it all depends on the scenario. Again not our recommendation. We recommend following our procedures and products because we know they work and are safe…beyond that, you now have some other options but we’re not endorsing them because they’re not good for you to breath and they can be dangerous on paint 👍
Can I safely use rinseless on a really trashed vehicle just using the spray-rinse-spray-contact with sponge? Or on very dirty vehicles foaming with suds and contact with microfiber washing mitt after first foaming/spraying-rinsing it's better or reccomended?
I hear lots of comments here in the UK that foam is just foam, its not a gauge of how well a product cleans. Foam just looks aesthetic. The chemistry inside determines how well it'll be able to break down the bonds holding dirt particles on the paintwork. Some might say 'foam allows the chemicals to stay on the paint for longer', but, it generally takes a while for the liquid solution to break down those molecular bonds holding the dirt onto the paint, on average, 5 minutes dwell is enough for a non foam cleaner to do its thing. I just do not understand why US markets foam? UK we just like power and a product that simply cleans without all the pomp and fuss of foam. I definitely think it's a cultural thing. I bet DIY Details products work amazingly well without aerating the soaps to create foam, I'd love to see a test to prove me wrong!
You are correct, DIY Detail Incredible Suds And DIY Detail Rinseless Wash work great without foam. The chemistry is independent of the foam. That said foam is fun.
2 questions. 1. Could you use a clay towel for every wash, especially if you don't let the car get very dirty ? 2. Since rinseless breaks down in water, will it hold up in a sprayer and left?
1. yes, but every wash is too much. Once or twice a month is also excessive but totally fine. For example maybe you use it to assist with bug guts on your windshield and front bumper...then you notice one spot on the paint feels rough. You could "spot treat" with the decon towel, gently.....just use common sense lol and yes it's totally fine in a sprayer. I leave a bottle of Rinseless in a spray bottle under my kitchen counter top for months and it's fine every time I bring it out to clean
What good do your products do when they are always sold out? And what good does 20% off sales do when you can’t even place an order b/c they are sold out? Your videos are great and all but about useless without being able to obtain your products.
What are you hoping to get that we don’t have in stock? Also please support our awesome distributors, they might have the items you’re looking for: diydetail.com/pages/distributors
I know it's not part of the video but it's there any way you cus can do a video with cleaning the inside and out of the front windshield after you have cleaned it looks nice but then night comes the street light hit it and you can see were you pass your rag or towel wat ever it's called but you can see the smudges from the wipe down
I currently use bilt hamber, touchless as my pretreat. I use it for its rust inhibitors. Do you guys have any soaps/rinseless in the pipeline that could add rust inhibitors?
Our DIY Detail Incredible Suds and DIY Detail Rinseless Wash do as well, it’s just we do not choose to advertise it ( most quality soaps in fact). With the amount of water used those properties are significantly diminished. You would need to use the soap almost pure to have any such benefits( with ours and others).
Great idea! Sometimes I just do not feel like grabbing the pressure washer. Just a hose and bucket, old school but with a twist, IK Foamer. Great idea!
Hi guys. In the case of interior floor mats the foaming of all clean it's highly important or just recommended? If i do not have a foamer i can expect similar results? Thanks!👍
Clay and wheel acid are two products I try to avoid using but, there are times when I am glad they are on the shelf collecting dust for me to use on those rare occasions, otherwise I may still be cleaning those wheels or decontaminating the paint today.
Amen to that. Not what we would teach the DIYers out there to use wheel acid, but there is a place for it (sometimes)....as many working detailers know. Same goes for the clay bar, it can be useful although it's pretty aggressive. The other 99% of the time, our methods are awesome:)
Loved this segment! I have a 2009 Camry that wasn't cared for the best in it's previous life and has some oxidation on the horizontal surfaces. When I took the decontamination towel to it, it sounded just like that! I may have to get some tree sap and water spot remover. There are also a few small spots starting to show on the roof where the clear coat has failed. Question: I'd like to polish the car to clean up the paint and get rid of a lot of the micro-marring. Should I steer clear of the area where the clear coat is failing? Any reason to avoid the dull areas of oxidation? From your experience will I just make the areas that are failing look that much worse by making the rest of the paint that is in decent shape better? Thanks as always!
A question for Yvan, are all clay towels roughly the same? I tried a cheaper end clay towel which seems to have clay literally on the surface of the towel, and am wondering if there’s a noticeable difference between what you use and the one I got from The box store.
Why are some detailers against clay towels? Just curious. I’ve used clay bars before. I would like to try your clay towel so can you give why some are against it or is it personal preference? Thanks guys. Great videos. I’m a weekend warrior detailer.
Question regarding iron decontamination on a convertible. Is there any concern with the chemical staining or damaging the top? We wouldn't be applying it to the top, but certainly during the rinse, you potentially may have the rinse getting down into the to the well and coming in contact with the top. I have yet to see any detailer talk about this process on a convertible car? thank you!
Might be a weird question but i live in an area that has a lot of bees and my car gets covered in bee poop (yellow orange splots). What product would be best for removal? I feel like it's left ever growing spots of discolouration on my car
Have you tried the decontamination towel after a wash? Using the process in this video, essentially? It might be different if the bee poop has sat for a while vs fresh
i have used a clay mitt with your iron remover step once but watching this video i'm getting the idea i'll have to try a few stages. I only recently got into this level of car care, loving it
1. So if you are doing decontamination, fall or spring and your car is coated, do you do chemical decontamination first and then physical decontamination or vice versa? 2. Is your tree sap remover also your line up’s official tar remover?
Our Iron Remover is paired with the decontamination towel -- on your bed of Incredible Suds after the wash, you apply one spray of Iron Remove on the panel, one or two sprays on the towel and you decontaminate that panel. Then repeat on the next panel, and the next. It's a combination of chemical and mechanical in the system we teach:) As for question #2 -- yep, it's a great tar remover as well. Hope that helps!
I love watching and learning about detailing on your channel but I’m not a DIY well I clean my own car but I run a mobile detailing business I would love for you guy to make some videos with a business mindset if possible thanks
could have done the front quarter and then the windshield but did it a little out of order is all. As long as you get the vehicle covered and know your process.
If you take a look, Nick rinsed off the mitt between the 2 in the wash bucket. Also with our foam rinse foam method, there’s no grit on the car to cause issues.
With how hard the water is in Michigan along with the salt 1/2 the year, I pretty much always do a waterspot remover step just in case. Thankfully they are cheap, and I don’t think I use more than 1/5 a 16oz bottle for an entire car unless there are visible spots.
I picked up a few water spots on my Kia stinger after parking outside last week. Crystal serum light is the coating I have. I’ll probably try water and vinegar before I buy the actual product
they definitely have a place in detailing, and I'll never say never use one:) but they're so abrasive that it's almost an emergency grab for me. I almost always stick to the towel. -Nick
My Z06 has always been de-con'd using Iron-X and a clay bar. It's been since 2020 since it was compounded for the third time since 2005(when I bought it) and coated. I am looking forward to trying the perforated decontaminating towel with iron remover and Your water spot remover. Followed by The Gold Standard polish/waffle pad, then panel prep and 5 year coating. :) I like doing this process when it's a little cooler. Very excited to try a new process. Thanks for so many awesome products, fellas!
Hey guys, im finially about to get some designated car soap and possibly a foam cannon. I was looking into Chemical guys and wonder if you have reccomendations on what soap to get for non a non coated 2014 Jeep Grand. Also for water spot remover on glass have you tried the sud factory x2 and chemical guys heavy duty water spot remover, which works better?
We don’t try other brands. If you want our recommendations, for the soap DIY Detail Incredible Suds, for water spot remover, DIY Detail Water Spot Remover. You will find both at DIYDetail.com
How good does the water spot remover work on glass? I bought some spray that I had to work for 30 minutes and it didn't even touch it. I watched a video on the Sud factory Spotless X2, and it made it look super easy
Also, I just learned about ceramic coatings and am considering having one applied. I was curious as to the benefits of ceramic coatings vs waxing and what are the negatives? I have heard some comments of water spots on ceramic coatings and the difficulty removing them without damaging the ceramic coating.
Sorry for the dumb questions, I just went down the rabbit hole and theres a lot of new stuff out there from the stuff I have been getting at AutoZone. For years all I've ever used is Dawn dish soap
Just used my clay towel for the first time last week, and I was SHOCKED at the sound it made when I started! Sounded like sand paper! But it works amazing and the results were perfect.
Great video as always! Thank you for producing great products and content! In some videos you use iron remover first and others, spot remover first. Is there any difference chemically or just safer for the paint using one over the other first? As in safer or more effective to get the minerals off the paint using the water spot remover before using the psd towel and iron remover? Or using the psd towel and iron remover first to get the harder/more stuck on contamination and iron deposits/fall out off before agitating the water spot remover with a micro fiber? Is the tree sap remover as strong as some of these citrus based tar removers such as carpro or Gtechniq (I know you can't compare brands) in general? Is your tree sap remover a citrus based cleaner? Is it over or underrated to use panel prep before polishing? Thanks!
The order varies according to condition, but it’s very minimal. DIY Detail Tree Sap Remover is solvent based and works very well on Tar. Using panel prep before polishing is both a waste of time and product.
@@diydetailofficial Thanks for the quick reply! I'm glad to hear you say that as I've always thought the same but I keep hearing professional detailers say to panel prep before polishing and I thought I saw one of the DIY Detail videos where you guys did panel prep before polishing but I might be mistaken. Especially with rinseless wash on the vehicle and then using a rinseless dampened pad with the gold standard polish it seems counter-intuitive to panel prep. Thanks again for all of your knowledge that you so willingly share! It's always great to learn more and more about this awesome hobby!
Are you putting the towels in to the same bucket after use? Or just starting the towels in the wash bucket and putting them somewhere else once they’re full of iron remover or water spot remover? Are there any best practices on putting contaminated tools/brushes/towels back in the wash bucket after use?
When using the tree sap remover prior to decontamination, should you dry the vehicle first, apply the tree sap remover, then go through the decontamination process with rinseless and iron remover? Or can you do tree sap while rinseless is in the vehicle. Trying to figure out the best process if you know tree sap is on the vehicle and you also need to decontaminate.
The sprayer with incredible suds in it, is it the “foaming” iK sprayer that ur using or just regular? Great video didn’t really think about I could foam soap without pressure washer.
Good lord, sounded like you folks were dry sanding the vehicle… BTW, did you ever get around to testing whether quick beads can be applied with a damp applicator/towel then wiped off instead of having to drag out a hose or pressure washer? I think you folks mentioned that quick beads has Graphene in it but ceramic gloss doesn’t.
I've done it on my 78 corvette. Used rinceless and sprayed quick bead on it than used a wet towel and spread quick bead on the car than wipe dry. Result is awesome.
Yes any machine polishing has the potential to level clear coat, that’s why we teach speed 3 on the DA with no pressure while polishing. It’s safe and it can help clean/shine paint, even remove some deeper defects with our wool pad, for example 👍
Simply rinse it in water and store it perforated side (“clay” side up). You just don’t want to fold it over onto itself and have the perforated sides stick to each other. Often times I’ll just hang it to dry over the side of the bucket
Yvan mentioned if you know you have tree sap, it makes sense to remove the tree sap remover before iron remover. Should you use tree sap remover before water spot remover also? Or really doesn't make a difference?
Hey guys. Love your videos and I learn a lot as a hobbyist. Question: why do the mechanical decontamination before the chemical Decon? I was previously taught to do chemical Decon first to help loosen anything remaining so mechanical Decon will be easier and potentially less marring. Looking forward to feedback! Keep up the great work.
Great process for those who only use a hose. The contamination was up there and required a lot of patience to remove. I cannot wait to see if the paint requires a two step or one step polish but I know it will be stunning! Thank you for the fun video!
Thanks 👍
Love the wash and talk style of video. Great that you explain the problems as you come across them.
I was really impressed with your water spot remover. I use it in winter to help clean the clogged lower panels of my ceramic coated vehicles.
I’ll have to try the sap remover next.
Thank you!
Here is a question whenypi are doing dilution ratios in a large ik foamer. what is the total voume of water and product are you using. So example the all clean 15 to 1. How many onces of water to All clean. Especially since ypu dont want to fill up the foamer with wather Either. So how much water do you typically use Ivan in the ik Foam pro 12?
120oz of water
8oz of DIY Detail All Clean
1/2oz of DIY Detail Incredible Suds
So what exactly water spot remover do? Because you keep washing with water after that? So after have to use water spot remover again?
No, water spots come from allowing water to air dry on the surface.
I used your clay towel today with incredible suds followed with iron remover - all DIY detail products. After done, I rinsed the towel well with lots of water. The clay side is now all sticky. What’s up with that?
It will reset once dry
This is the New technology. Rinseless the best. I have to admit as weekender Warrior or soldier or waterver you call.
For example cheap shampoo need 3-4 capful. 5 wash you must buy another. With ONR or other rinseless i can do better job.
Yes DIY Detail Rinseless Wash is amazing, 256:1 and you're good to go for almost anything cleaning-related:)
You lost me at when you don't have all that $$$ ...spray unit you are using # $180. Nz..😂😂😂😂
It’s options
Can you use the decontamination towel on PPF?
Yes
I’ve done a few of those “haven’t washed it in 5 years” type vehicles with a ton of buildup on the horizontal surfaces. I wash those areas with the flag tipped brush to get the looser bits then clay with iron remover for a smooth, glossy result
nice!
Another amazing video - just seeing an entire process doesn’t get old.
I am wondering what I will be watching next year…. You going to keep coming out with these great informative videos??
Keep up the great work
Thank you! We will always try to keep these fresh....even a wash video is full of useful nuggets:)
Do you have to clean after each panel, or can I decon the entire car before I have to clean it?
You can do the whole car if not working in the sun.
using 4 oz of incredible sids and one-gallon of water? you should be getting a ton of foam!! you guys might want to change the actual tip and yes go slower👍
it's essentially one ounce for your 32 oz foam cannon, only you're going to get better foam from an MJJC for example. but yes slow and steady gets you real good foam:)
I’d be very interested in trying your products for our sons detailing business if your shipping costs get better. He’s 16 and watches every penny he spends on products. These products look great and maybe eventually we can buy into them for him in the future. He’s been detailing with a pretty decent clientele for about a year now and his customer base is growing. Thank you and keep up the great work.
We pay for the shipping on orders over $150. Also many of our distributors offer shipping when a certain size order is placed.
Https://diydetail.com/pages/distributors
@@diydetailofficial well, at 16 running his own business wanting to try your clay towel, Quick Beads and Iron Remover…that’s not 150 dollars. Maybe in time he can buy into your products. A lot of these products would benefit a lot of ppl if they were available in retail areas/stores like hundreds of others. Thanks.
I’ve been using their products for months so might I suggest products the young man may want to start with. Decon towel for sure, All Clean(gallon), Incredible Suds(gallon), Rinseless Wash, Water Spot Remover.
The rest can be added later. Iron Remover is nice but not totally necessary(and smells like pure crap😂).
They also have other tools that are a great help like their brushes.
As he gets more accomplished their polished system of pads and Gold Standard are very very good.
When he really gets going then using all of their coatings are great and I use them every week.
I have Kia Seltos in Glacier White Pearl color. Bro, if I want to polish my car, should I use carnauba wax or metallic polish for buffing? Which one should I use first and last? I want to remove swirl marks, minor scratches and want to get a complete gloss as well as saturation over the paint. And also suggest which pad should I use for both of them. I would be delighted for your reply. 😃
I would polish using DIY Detail Gold Standard Polish, and our yellow waffle pad, then follow that with one of our ceramic coatings for long lasting protection.
Do you take suggestions for new products? An all-in-one decon spray would be brilliant. You use iron fallout remover with the clay towel so that cuts 2 steps into 1, well carpro has trix which removes iron fallout and tar so this used with the claybar would be 3 steps in 1. There's just 1 step missing....water spot & mineral remover. My suggestion is could you make an all-in-one product that removes iron fallout, tar, and water spots, a product that you could use with the clay towel and cut 4 steps down to 1 saving lots of time and money on multiple products? Complete decon done in 1 easy step would be a detailers dream
That’s would be our dream as well. Unfortunately though the chemistry doesn’t add up. Tar/ adhesive removers are damaging to clay and synthetic clay products, and are solvents. Iron removers are PH neutral and waterborne, finally Waterspot removers are acidic.
@@diydetailofficial that's a shame. I thought there may be a way around it if we let the clever science guys figure it out. I'm sure there will be better options in the future especially given all the advancements in detailing that have been achieved in the last decade or two.
If a vehicle like my truck as visible big rust chunks, should I even clay that, or just use DIY Detail Iron Remover and let it sit?
After the wash? Probably just spray iron remover on, let it sit and dwell and gently rinse off. See what's left, be gentle. If you use the towel on the rust spots it can really mess up the towel so just use common sense
@@diydetailofficial alright that’s what I thought, but wanted to double check. 🤙🍺
Should the first foam be some sort of Decon shampoo (instead of Incredible Suds), or would that qualify for the "Overrated" video?
Overrated
@@diydetailofficial 😂😂😂
@@diydetailofficial thanks guys
Hey guys can I use ceramic gloss and the decontamination towel?
Yes
@@diydetailofficial great thank you
How much patience before calling it quits?
Your call:) you can always opt for the clay bar at that point, I like to have one for emergencies just in case
I guess you trust the process. It worked but not as quick as I was hoping. Nearly two hours for just the hood. Rinseless + Iron Remover + Quick Beads
Love these videos! So informative and relaxing to watch! All the products seem to work effortless together! I’m sold ☝️😂✨👏💪🏻
Thanks Danny! Hope you enjoy them 😀
Where can I get that bucket?
Local restaurant supply
Second!!!
Good to see you as always 👍
In what other ways can I remove bug marks, tree sap and water spots by not using any decontaminating agents? Can I use a petrol or a diesel to clean them off?
Yes, but it’s not very good for your paint.
We would never recommend using that, but some professionals (we also don’t recommend) use paint thinner or wheel acid for stubborn water spots or materials on paint, it all depends on the scenario. Again not our recommendation. We recommend following our procedures and products because we know they work and are safe…beyond that, you now have some other options but we’re not endorsing them because they’re not good for you to breath and they can be dangerous on paint 👍
I just had my car professionally ceramic coated with MaxG+. Which product of yours would you recommend to help keep up with the coating?
DIY Detail Rinse Less Wash and DIY Detail Ceramic Gloss
Can I safely use rinseless on a really trashed vehicle just using the spray-rinse-spray-contact with sponge? Or on very dirty vehicles foaming with suds and contact with microfiber washing mitt after first foaming/spraying-rinsing it's better or reccomended?
Both work
Exactly
Thank you
I hear lots of comments here in the UK that foam is just foam, its not a gauge of how well a product cleans. Foam just looks aesthetic. The chemistry inside determines how well it'll be able to break down the bonds holding dirt particles on the paintwork. Some might say 'foam allows the chemicals to stay on the paint for longer', but, it generally takes a while for the liquid solution to break down those molecular bonds holding the dirt onto the paint, on average, 5 minutes dwell is enough for a non foam cleaner to do its thing. I just do not understand why US markets foam? UK we just like power and a product that simply cleans without all the pomp and fuss of foam. I definitely think it's a cultural thing. I bet DIY Details products work amazingly well without aerating the soaps to create foam, I'd love to see a test to prove me wrong!
You are correct, DIY Detail Incredible Suds And DIY Detail Rinseless Wash work great without foam. The chemistry is independent of the foam. That said foam is fun.
2 questions.
1. Could you use a clay towel for every wash, especially if you don't let the car get very dirty ?
2. Since rinseless breaks down in water, will it hold up in a sprayer and left?
1. yes, but every wash is too much. Once or twice a month is also excessive but totally fine. For example maybe you use it to assist with bug guts on your windshield and front bumper...then you notice one spot on the paint feels rough. You could "spot treat" with the decon towel, gently.....just use common sense lol and yes it's totally fine in a sprayer. I leave a bottle of Rinseless in a spray bottle under my kitchen counter top for months and it's fine every time I bring it out to clean
I would like to ask why you would clay towel the car before removing tree sap and water spots?
The Perforated Synthetic Decontamination Towel will help to remove some of them.
Does every kind of iron remover work as a clay lube? And, is DIY syntetic decontamination towel comparable to other brands clay towels?
No, not all are safe, and no our Perforated Synthetic Decontamination Towel has a unique polymer surface.
What good do your products do when they are always sold out? And what good does 20% off sales do when you can’t even place an order b/c they are sold out? Your videos are great and all but about useless without being able to obtain your products.
What are you hoping to get that we don’t have in stock? Also please support our awesome distributors, they might have the items you’re looking for: diydetail.com/pages/distributors
I know it's not part of the video but it's there any way you cus can do a video with cleaning the inside and out of the front windshield after you have cleaned it looks nice but then night comes the street light hit it and you can see were you pass your rag or towel wat ever it's called but you can see the smudges from the wipe down
Great idea!
I currently use bilt hamber, touchless as my pretreat. I use it for its rust inhibitors. Do you guys have any soaps/rinseless in the pipeline that could add rust inhibitors?
Our DIY Detail Incredible Suds and DIY Detail Rinseless Wash do as well, it’s just we do not choose to advertise it ( most quality soaps in fact). With the amount of water used those properties are significantly diminished. You would need to use the soap almost pure to have any such benefits( with ours and others).
Great idea! Sometimes I just do not feel like grabbing the pressure washer. Just a hose and bucket, old school but with a twist, IK Foamer.
Great idea!
Thank you
Hi guys. In the case of interior floor mats the foaming of all clean it's highly important or just recommended? If i do not have a foamer i can expect similar results? Thanks!👍
Recommend
Yvan using a detailing brush!!!! A rare sight!!
Yes it is.
Clay and wheel acid are two products I try to avoid using but, there are times when I am glad they are on the shelf collecting dust for me to use on those rare occasions, otherwise I may still be cleaning those wheels or decontaminating the paint today.
Amen to that. Not what we would teach the DIYers out there to use wheel acid, but there is a place for it (sometimes)....as many working detailers know. Same goes for the clay bar, it can be useful although it's pretty aggressive. The other 99% of the time, our methods are awesome:)
Loved this segment! I have a 2009 Camry that wasn't cared for the best in it's previous life and has some oxidation on the horizontal surfaces. When I took the decontamination towel to it, it sounded just like that! I may have to get some tree sap and water spot remover. There are also a few small spots starting to show on the roof where the clear coat has failed.
Question: I'd like to polish the car to clean up the paint and get rid of a lot of the micro-marring. Should I steer clear of the area where the clear coat is failing? Any reason to avoid the dull areas of oxidation? From your experience will I just make the areas that are failing look that much worse by making the rest of the paint that is in decent shape better? Thanks as always!
If the clear coat is failing, just stay away from those areas. The duller areas, try a test spot. Do what you can do:)
A question for Yvan, are all clay towels roughly the same? I tried a cheaper end clay towel which seems to have clay literally on the surface of the towel, and am wondering if there’s a noticeable difference between what you use and the one I got from The box store.
They are not, ours is a fine grade perforated synthetic decontamination towel
I strongly believe that I can helpyou in the greater Las Vegas area. Reach out.
we're based in Omaha but rarely in the same area, Nick lives in Utah and Yvan roams the continent in his bus
Why are some detailers against clay towels? Just curious. I’ve used clay bars before. I would like to try your clay towel so can you give why some are against it or is it personal preference? Thanks guys. Great videos. I’m a weekend warrior detailer.
Most that speak against it actually have never tried it.
Ooops. Detailers.
Question regarding iron decontamination on a convertible. Is there any concern with the chemical staining or damaging the top? We wouldn't be applying it to the top, but certainly during the rinse, you potentially may have the rinse getting down into the to the well and coming in contact with the top. I have yet to see any detailer talk about this process on a convertible car? thank you!
No concerns
Is polishing a necessary step after the decontamination and beading steps?
Ideally
Love watching diy detail vidéos
Thanks - appreciate the support!
What was the dilution in the IK foamer with the All Clean in it? Thanks.
15:1
Might be a weird question but i live in an area that has a lot of bees and my car gets covered in bee poop (yellow orange splots). What product would be best for removal? I feel like it's left ever growing spots of discolouration on my car
Have you tried the decontamination towel after a wash? Using the process in this video, essentially? It might be different if the bee poop has sat for a while vs fresh
i have used a clay mitt with your iron remover step once but watching this video i'm getting the idea i'll have to try a few stages. I only recently got into this level of car care, loving it
1. So if you are doing decontamination, fall or spring and your car is coated, do you do chemical decontamination first and then physical decontamination or vice versa?
2. Is your tree sap remover also your line up’s official tar remover?
Our Iron Remover is paired with the decontamination towel -- on your bed of Incredible Suds after the wash, you apply one spray of Iron Remove on the panel, one or two sprays on the towel and you decontaminate that panel. Then repeat on the next panel, and the next. It's a combination of chemical and mechanical in the system we teach:) As for question #2 -- yep, it's a great tar remover as well. Hope that helps!
@@diydetailofficial it did, thanks!
Great great video. Love it
Get these products over to the UK 🇬🇧 please guys ❤
we are available in the UK!!
I love watching and learning about detailing on your channel but I’m not a DIY well I clean my own car but I run a mobile detailing business I would love for you guy to make some videos with a business mindset if possible thanks
We do , many of our podcasts are business oriented.
@@diydetailofficial please send podcast link thanks
Great video.
I have just re sprayed my car. How long can i wait before i can polish it with the gold standard polish.?
Did you paint it or have it painted by someone else?
Someone else painted it
at 11.23 washing under the car then windshield ?? why?
could have done the front quarter and then the windshield but did it a little out of order is all. As long as you get the vehicle covered and know your process.
Cant wait for the diy products to release in europe
Soon
We have some sites here in the UK, such as In2Detailing, who stock their products - they might deliver to you ?
@@martinbailey2140 Yep aware of that but am not from UK, and ordering from those sites will result in Tax and high shipping
Nick where can I get the Hollywood haircut?
Lol you gotta put up with the mullet haters, it’s not for the faint of heart 😂
When are these clay towels becoming available ? 😢
They will be back soon. Some may be available from our distributors.
Https://diydetail.com/pages/distributors
Always loving your video guys. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks so much!
Wich is better for pretreat incredible suds or rinseless?
Depends on your preference…hard to beat the cleaning power of foaming on Incredible Suds, that’s for sure 💪
IK foamer..... Wet, Dry, of intermediate foam?
The grey tip
Wiping the step board then the hood after with the same rag is a big nono
If you take a look, Nick rinsed off the mitt between the 2 in the wash bucket. Also with our foam rinse foam method, there’s no grit on the car to cause issues.
With how hard the water is in Michigan along with the salt 1/2 the year, I pretty much always do a waterspot remover step just in case. Thankfully they are cheap, and I don’t think I use more than 1/5 a 16oz bottle for an entire car unless there are visible spots.
Good practice!
I picked up a few water spots on my Kia stinger after parking outside last week. Crystal serum light is the coating I have. I’ll probably try water and vinegar before I buy the actual product
@@woocoheed worth a try, but I’ll say that I’ve never really had the results I wanted from vinegar unless it’s just a residue.
Looks like you guys need a traditional Clay bar
they definitely have a place in detailing, and I'll never say never use one:) but they're so abrasive that it's almost an emergency grab for me. I almost always stick to the towel. -Nick
What is the best way to clean and store the decon towel?
Rinse/flush thoroughly with water and then dry it, perforated or “clay” side up. I dry mine on the side of my bucket
24:10 i propose: the DROOL-bib🤤
DRIP CATCHER 4000 lol
Great video for me i use rinceless wash for the first pre wash and incredible stud for the second working great
Nice! Why in that order?
@@diydetailofficialrinceless wash work very well for lifting the dirt but next Time i Try your way keep your good work
My Z06 has always been de-con'd using Iron-X and a clay bar. It's been since 2020 since it was compounded for the third time since 2005(when I bought it) and coated. I am looking forward to trying the perforated decontaminating towel with iron remover and Your water spot remover. Followed by The Gold Standard polish/waffle pad, then panel prep and 5 year coating. :) I like doing this process when it's a little cooler. Very excited to try a new process. Thanks for so many awesome products, fellas!
You got it! Enjoy:)
@@diydetailofficial Loving this!!! Thanks!!!
Thank you for the support
Thanks for great products.@@diydetailofficial
Do any of these products strip wax/protection? And if I wanted to strip protection, what would I use? Thanks.
No, if you want to strip protection with confidence you would need to machine polish
Junior Mullet Cadets unite!
lol
Hey guys, im finially about to get some designated car soap and possibly a foam cannon. I was looking into Chemical guys and wonder if you have reccomendations on what soap to get for non a non coated 2014 Jeep Grand.
Also for water spot remover on glass have you tried the sud factory x2 and chemical guys heavy duty water spot remover, which works better?
We don’t try other brands. If you want our recommendations, for the soap DIY Detail Incredible Suds, for water spot remover, DIY Detail Water Spot Remover. You will find both at DIYDetail.com
How good does the water spot remover work on glass? I bought some spray that I had to work for 30 minutes and it didn't even touch it. I watched a video on the Sud factory Spotless X2, and it made it look super easy
@chrisfig3746 water spots are difficult to access. If they are extreme, the glass may be etched, requiring polishing.
Also, I just learned about ceramic coatings and am considering having one applied. I was curious as to the benefits of ceramic coatings vs waxing and what are the negatives? I have heard some comments of water spots on ceramic coatings and the difficulty removing them without damaging the ceramic coating.
Sorry for the dumb questions, I just went down the rabbit hole and theres a lot of new stuff out there from the stuff I have been getting at AutoZone. For years all I've ever used is Dawn dish soap
So you aren't going to use a hose......but then you use a hose?🤔
I guess plans changed in this one huh sorry about that
@@diydetailofficial 😀👍🏻
Just used my clay towel for the first time last week, and I was SHOCKED at the sound it made when I started! Sounded like sand paper! But it works amazing and the results were perfect.
Thank you.
Is there ever a time where you would use a "strip wash" product before going on to the decontaminate work?
The vehicle needs to be oiled or greasy to resort to that.
Another great video. But I always wonder what tips are you using in your IK foam sprayer? they come with orange green and the gray one
I believe we have been using the gray ones
Ребята, вы классные! Привет из Израиля ❤
?
Google translated this and…thanks!
I can't wait to see that color polished and coated. I bet the 5 year will make that look super glossy.
It looked amazing:) stay tuned!
Great video as always! Thank you for producing great products and content!
In some videos you use iron remover first and others, spot remover first. Is there any difference chemically or just safer for the paint using one over the other first? As in safer or more effective to get the minerals off the paint using the water spot remover before using the psd towel and iron remover? Or using the psd towel and iron remover first to get the harder/more stuck on contamination and iron deposits/fall out off before agitating the water spot remover with a micro fiber?
Is the tree sap remover as strong as some of these citrus based tar removers such as carpro or Gtechniq (I know you can't compare brands) in general? Is your tree sap remover a citrus based cleaner?
Is it over or underrated to use panel prep before polishing? Thanks!
The order varies according to condition, but it’s very minimal.
DIY Detail Tree Sap Remover is solvent based and works very well on Tar.
Using panel prep before polishing is both a waste of time and product.
@@diydetailofficial Thanks for the quick reply! I'm glad to hear you say that as I've always thought the same but I keep hearing professional detailers say to panel prep before polishing and I thought I saw one of the DIY Detail videos where you guys did panel prep before polishing but I might be mistaken. Especially with rinseless wash on the vehicle and then using a rinseless dampened pad with the gold standard polish it seems counter-intuitive to panel prep.
Thanks again for all of your knowledge that you so willingly share! It's always great to learn more and more about this awesome hobby!
Are you putting the towels in to the same bucket after use? Or just starting the towels in the wash bucket and putting them somewhere else once they’re full of iron remover or water spot remover? Are there any best practices on putting contaminated tools/brushes/towels back in the wash bucket after use?
After we are done, yes they are going into the wash bucket. After the detail is complete on a vehicle we clean all our tools including the bucket.
@@diydetailofficial but not during, right?
When using the tree sap remover prior to decontamination, should you dry the vehicle first, apply the tree sap remover, then go through the decontamination process with rinseless and iron remover? Or can you do tree sap while rinseless is in the vehicle. Trying to figure out the best process if you know tree sap is on the vehicle and you also need to decontaminate.
It’s most effective on a dry surface
@@diydetailofficial Is that also true for DIY Spot Remover? Does it is most effective dry surface so should dry the paint first?
Thanks guys! Can you use ceramic gloss with the decontamination towel?
Yes you can!
Thanks! After you rinseless wash your cardo spray the ceramic gloss on as your drying it off with a microfiber towel? @@diydetailofficial
The sprayer with incredible suds in it, is it the “foaming” iK sprayer that ur using or just regular? Great video didn’t really think about I could foam soap without pressure washer.
And if it is the foaming sprayer which tip color green, white, or orange? Ty
Yes it’s a foamer, it has the standard tip
@@diydetailofficial. It came with all these tips wasn’t sure, thanks!
Good lord, sounded like you folks were dry sanding the vehicle…
BTW, did you ever get around to testing whether quick beads can be applied with a damp applicator/towel then wiped off instead of having to drag out a hose or pressure washer? I think you folks mentioned that quick beads has Graphene in it but ceramic gloss doesn’t.
You can actually use quick beads as a spray and wipe last step protectant if desired👍
I've done it on my 78 corvette. Used rinceless and sprayed quick bead on it than used a wet towel and spread quick bead on the car than wipe dry. Result is awesome.
@@denthevetteman78 yessir!
Hi community. Does using scratch removercproducts with da buffer remove clear coat on 19 models and above per say.
Yes any machine polishing has the potential to level clear coat, that’s why we teach speed 3 on the DA with no pressure while polishing. It’s safe and it can help clean/shine paint, even remove some deeper defects with our wool pad, for example 👍
@@diydetailofficial ok was only trying to use this process to get stracth out and not hurt clear coat per say
So it is OK to use da with scratch removers and orange pads
Is your clay towel re-useable or is it a one off?
You can use it on hundreds of cars 👍
What’s a good way to store the decontamination mitt? Appreciate it.
Simply rinse it in water and store it perforated side (“clay” side up). You just don’t want to fold it over onto itself and have the perforated sides stick to each other. Often times I’ll just hang it to dry over the side of the bucket
@@diydetailofficial Thank you for the help.
Yvan mentioned if you know you have tree sap, it makes sense to remove the tree sap remover before iron remover. Should you use tree sap remover before water spot remover also? Or really doesn't make a difference?
Yes, ideally, but this one was so contaminated that we didn’t know what we were dealing with exactly.
@diydetailofficial So ideally, the order would be foam, rinse, foam, rinsless wash, DIY Tree Sap Remover, Iron Remover with Towel then Spot Remover?
Or should Spot Remover go before Iron Remover?
great video!
Thanks!
Hey guys. Love your videos and I learn a lot as a hobbyist. Question: why do the mechanical decontamination before the chemical Decon? I was previously taught to do chemical Decon first to help loosen anything remaining so mechanical Decon will be easier and potentially less marring. Looking forward to feedback! Keep up the great work.
We did both together