Outstanding episode. I've seen lots of craftsman over the years but you really take the grand prize. Beautiful work and you know all the tricks. thanks
My problem, If I were you, would be upon completion of all the fabrication, fitting and finishing, I would stay up all night just staring at the various creations. That’s some fine bronze jewelry you’ve blessed her with!
Oh those two Spruce spars with the bronze fittings are going to look outstanding on the boat. The Acorn nuts were a nice touch. Can't wait for the mast......hollow or solid?
Beautiful work. It’s great to see these bronze working skills. I really enjoy seeing how you think through these tasks. We’re in the process of rigging our build, so it’s very inspiring and great to see what’s possible. Thanks for sharing, Bob.
Gorgeous work, as ever. I have no knowledge of bronze welding, but I was surprised that silver solder can take the loads. Not a challenge, just a surprise. Thanks Bob.
Hi Rick, Silver soldering is more like brazing than welding. In welding bronze the 2 base parts that you want to joint need to melt with the same alloy filler rod. Silver solder is more fluid than brazing and works by being drawn into the joint by a capillary action. The Silver Solder will be drawn through the joint, filling the minute crack between the two pieces of metal, bonding with the surfaces to join them. The 45% silver solder I used has a tensile strength of over 60,000 psi. If I had welded the flanges on I would only be able to reach the outside of the joint which would result in a weaker joint than silver soldering it. So silver soldering seemed to best approach. Thanks for watching! Cheers, Bob
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Easy flo 45 and Handy Harman flux would be a good combination for this type of assembly when the parts fit fairly tight and there are no gaps to fill. This alloy melts at rather low temperature (circa 600 C, 1150 F), thus, there is a minimal distortion and the finished job looks very neat, much better than a welded joint. Submerging the assembly in water right after the soldering removes most of the black oxides and makes the cleaning easier... very nicely done!
Your video quality and craftsmanship are extraordinary - SO well explained and illustrated - it makes me feel like I could follow along and build an identical boat! Two things in particular - the way when you measure something, you show the final number as an overlay, and the way you sketched the shape of the loop directly on your welding table. Thanks for all the wonderful videos!
Beautiful work Bob. "If you're going to make it, make it beautiful" isn't just your motto, it is the foundation of all you do. Thank you not only for the beautiful work you do but for the teaching you do along the way. Have a great week ahead.
Mr. Emser, I just discovered your channel and find your videos most educational and entertaining. I really enjoy reading about and learning the art and craft of building small wooden boats. I haven't taken on this challenge but your videos inspire me to build my own wooden sailboat. I just purchased tickets to the 2022 Wooden Boat Show in Mystic, CT and plan to stop by your booth to meet you and thank you personally for posting these wonderful videos.
Thank you so much. I’m so happy you’re enjoying the videos and finding value in them. Also happy the hear you’re think for building a boat. I’ll look forward to meeting you in Mystic.
Hi,having watched you building the boat and now the fittings,I appreciate your attention to detail and still be able to simplify the explanation.thank you.Roly 🇬🇧.
Beautiful work, as always. Love the choice of silver solder instead of welding the bronze. It should be plenty strong on bronze, North of 50k to 55k pounds of sheer load, if I remember correctly. The hardware definitely holds up to your "make it beautiful" creedo.
Hello Bob that company you got the bushing from, Mc Master Carr has been around a very long time. I worked as mechanic designer back in the 70s and used items from the very thick catalog. Oil lite bushing made great bearings. Love your work.
Hey Bob, beautiful work as always! One of the comments below is the acquisition of metal lathe! guess I have to become a patreaon now! I was thinking "what, didn't machine his own cap nuts?!" No pressure! :) Happy Easter/ Passover
How ironic that you would make such a gaff saying jib club gaff. But good on you for keeping it in the final cut. It is, after all, a real twing tuster.
Hi Kenneth, As many know from past videos, I'm dyslexic, with dyslexia I may say a wrong word that sounds similar to the right one (like extinct instead of distinct). I had the hardest time saying socket instead of sprocket. Indeed it is a tongue twister for the best of us. Thanks for watching! Cheers, Bob
Good solution to the jib club, I chose to cast mine in 2 parts and have bought some beyond ridiculously expensive TIG welding rod to join them together. I've never TIG welded bronze and the filler is too expensive to experiment with so here's hoping...
Hi Geoff, Check out this link to Airgas. www.airgas.com/product/Welding-Products/Filler-Metal/TIG-Rod-%28GTAW%29/TIG-Rod---Bronze-Alloy/p/RAD64001567 You’ll fine welding bronze is almost easier than steel pools very fast.
Thanks Paul, No concerns about moisture. The gaff is at the top of the main sail very unlikely to get wet. If so I will dry out easily. All bright work is sealed with varnished and will get inspected and revarnish every new sailing season. Thanks for watching Bob
Your work is very precise and whimsical. I love seeing who produces every item and accessory on this boat. A real jewel. I have a question, I want to do some work that goes in polished brass, and I would like to know if I can use something that will keep it protected and beautiful for longer. I've been thinking about Renaissance Wax, is it the best option or are there better ones? Thank you.
Thanks Wagner, Yes, was is the best choice. I’ve use lacquer based products for sealing bronze, brass etc. Even though made for exterior exposure one the years did not hold up and the one had to remove the sealant to re-polish. So was is the best and apply it often. Cheers, Bob
Hi Scott, Yes, I would use different bronze for casting. For fabrication I used c932 Bronze bearing stock from McMaster-Carr. This is a standard material for general purpose applications and one of the most popular bronze alloys. C932 bearing bronze is hard, strong, resistant to wear, resistant to impacts, and easily machined. Additionally, c932 bronze is ductile and resistant to corrosion. It can be easily soldered and brazed, though welding is not advised. For casting I use Silicon Bronze. Silicon bronze is a low-lead brass alloy that is generally composed of 96 percent copper. The remainder can be made from silicon and a variety of other alloys such as manganese, tin, iron, or zinc. Silicon Bronze is known for its easy pouring ability, and easy welding properties. It too, in addition to its appealing surface finish, has superior corrosion resistant properties. Thanks for your question and watching! Cheers, Bob
Although I just love the work you do and all the effort to make this a totally perfect boat. Arent you a little nervouse that actual day you put the boat to the test in a actual lake or the sea? I have lived my whole life by the sea and one thing I do know is that weather, water and wind takes a raging toll on the material. How long do you thinkt this boat will last in the mint condition? Or is it that you further on would appreciate a little patina?
Impressive fabrication skills as always! I admit I was looking at the drawing and thinking, “But where is the bend going to come from?” 😄 Was that in the plans or additional instructions, or did you figure it out?
Hi Fred, The plans do not come with instructions. Seeing the bend in the drawings I decided the steam bending was the best approach. Thanks for watching. Bob
Hello Bob, nice work as always. I think the brazed parts will be plenty stong. A little tip. When I need to make two equal flat metal part, I glue them together with a couple of drops superglue. But when you do this you need to frequently cool in water while grinding. Heat breaks the super glue bond. I always grinf without gloves to feel when it gets too hot. I have a question about the varnish. I have a sail boat, no not a wooden one - fiber glass. My prior boat had quite some wooden parts though, e.g. the tiller. I never had any luck with marine varnish. Even with the best ones on the market I had to redo it every two year sometimes yearly. I switched to an UV stabilized oil (available on the market in Germany) this extended the time to refinish the surface to 3 to 4 years. Any experience / opinion?
@@johnstarkie9948 I fully agree, but I only can speak for my climate (southern Germany) and for me it is a difference if a finish last for a year or two or 4 to 5. Less maintenance, more sailing.
![[#2024MAMA] BIGBANG (빅뱅) - 뱅뱅뱅 (BANG BANG BANG) + FANTASTIC BABY | Mnet 241123 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EQsYfiPR9uM/mqdefault.jpg)
![What's in the box?! 1890s Safe [Restoration]](/img/n.gif)
Outstanding episode. I've seen lots of craftsman over the years but you really take the grand prize. Beautiful work and you know all the tricks. thanks
Thank you, I appreciate it!
Brilliant - thanks Bob
My problem, If I were you, would be upon completion of all the fabrication, fitting and finishing, I would stay up all night just staring at the various creations. That’s some fine bronze jewelry you’ve blessed her with!
Thanks Gary, That tack socket did sit on my desk next to my computer for several days! I'm glad you're enjoying them as well.
Thanks for watching,
Bob
Oh those two Spruce spars with the bronze fittings are going to look outstanding on the boat. The Acorn nuts were a nice touch. Can't wait for the mast......hollow or solid?
Bob, AKA, “Mister Robert”. Your demonstration of exemplary skills and ever present attention to detail, have reinforced my thinking as students
Beautiful work. It’s great to see these bronze working skills. I really enjoy seeing how you think through these tasks. We’re in the process of rigging our build, so it’s very inspiring and great to see what’s possible. Thanks for sharing, Bob.
The fact that you turned the brass screws on the gaff jaws so they aligned horizontally with the length of the pole didn't go unnoticed. Awesome work.
Gorgeous work, as ever. I have no knowledge of bronze welding, but I was surprised that silver solder can take the loads. Not a challenge, just a surprise. Thanks Bob.
Crossed my mind as well, but like you I have confidence in his decision.
Hi Rick, Silver soldering is more like brazing than welding. In welding bronze the 2 base parts that you want to joint need to melt with the same alloy filler rod. Silver solder is more fluid than brazing and works by being drawn into the joint by a capillary action. The Silver Solder will be drawn through the joint, filling the minute crack between the two pieces of metal, bonding with the surfaces to join them. The 45% silver solder I used has a tensile strength of over 60,000 psi.
If I had welded the flanges on I would only be able to reach the outside of the joint which would result in a weaker joint than silver soldering it. So silver soldering seemed to best approach.
Thanks for watching!
Cheers,
Bob
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Thank you for the lesson in silver soldering, I learned something new today.
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Thanks Bob. I think 60K PSI will do!!
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Easy flo 45 and Handy Harman flux would be a good combination for this type of assembly when the parts fit fairly tight and there are no gaps to fill. This alloy melts at rather low temperature (circa 600 C, 1150 F), thus, there is a minimal distortion and the finished job looks very neat, much better than a welded joint. Submerging the assembly in water right after the soldering removes most of the black oxides and makes the cleaning easier... very nicely done!
a master craftsman!
You're clever...I love watching you work.
Making it beautiful !!
Your video quality and craftsmanship are extraordinary - SO well explained and illustrated - it makes me feel like I could follow along and build an identical boat! Two things in particular - the way when you measure something, you show the final number as an overlay, and the way you sketched the shape of the loop directly on your welding table. Thanks for all the wonderful videos!
Almost too good to take out in the rain, beautiful work.
Dog gone it Bob that is such a beautiful build. Well done on another great video. Thanks for sharing.
Glad you enjoyed it
Beautiful work Bob. "If you're going to make it, make it beautiful" isn't just your motto, it is the foundation of all you do. Thank you not only for the beautiful work you do but for the teaching you do along the way. Have a great week ahead.
Mr. Emser, I just discovered your channel and find your videos most educational and entertaining. I really enjoy reading about and learning the art and craft of building small wooden boats. I haven't taken on this challenge but your videos inspire me to build my own wooden sailboat. I just purchased tickets to the 2022 Wooden Boat Show in Mystic, CT and plan to stop by your booth to meet you and thank you personally for posting these wonderful videos.
Thank you so much. I’m so happy you’re enjoying the videos and finding value in them. Also happy the hear you’re think for building a boat. I’ll look forward to meeting you in Mystic.
I sure hope Steve has a prominent place on your Christmas list!
Excellent. Steve is definitely getting an afternoon out on the lake when the boat is done.
Indeed he will. Steve is an excellent sailor. He use to teach sailing on Lake Geneva WI when he was a young lad.
Miło oglądać - jak zwykle :-)
Pozdrowienia z Polski!
Dziękuję Ci
Jib club tack socket is fascinating - in addition to being a mouthful. And the fit of the gaff jaws is beautiful and amazing. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for a beautiful example of tackle built the right way.
Great job again Bob, your work is top notch. Those fittings are beautiful.
Jib club tack socket... Easy for you to say - what a tongue twister!😂
Very interesting on the silver soldiering.
Beautiful fittings, very impressed.
You’re an true artist, cobber.
It’s such a pleasure to watch your work, it’s nice to see someone else with standards👍
Lovely work Bob. Glad to see you got those screws to tighten to horizontal.
Indeed! Thanks for noticing.
Fantastic work, Bob! Really beautiful piece! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
As always , beautiful workmanship.. You are a superb craftsman and artist.
Outstanding
Thanks for the update Bob.
Hope you’re enjoying your Easter weekend.
it is with so much pleasure that I watch you work. thank you for sharing.
Very impressive, detailed work.
Spectacular work.
Hi,having watched you building the boat and now the fittings,I appreciate your attention to detail and still be able to simplify the explanation.thank you.Roly 🇬🇧.
Your videos are such a joy to watch. Many blessings to you and your family.
Clib jub? ….Love ya man!
Very impressive, and beautifully crafted! You inspire me to be a better woodworker.
Master art
great episode!👍👍👌👌
great stuff
Beautiful work, as always. Love the choice of silver solder instead of welding the bronze. It should be plenty strong on bronze, North of 50k to 55k pounds of sheer load, if I remember correctly. The hardware definitely holds up to your "make it beautiful" creedo.
Thanks Thomas!
Very interesting. I would have never thought that silver soldering would be strong enough. 🇨🇦
The 45% silver solder I used has a tensile strength of over 60,000 psi
Thanks of watching!
Cheers,
Bob
Hello Bob that company you got the bushing from, Mc Master Carr has been around a very long time. I worked as mechanic designer back in the 70s and used items from the very thick catalog. Oil lite bushing made great bearings. Love your work.
Bob, Can you say which particular Bronze you chose to use?
amazing
Hey Bob, beautiful work as always! One of the comments below is the acquisition of metal lathe! guess I have to become a patreaon now! I was thinking "what, didn't machine his own cap nuts?!" No pressure! :) Happy Easter/ Passover
Clib jub. Love your work
How ironic that you would make such a gaff saying jib club gaff. But good on you for keeping it in the final cut. It is, after all, a real twing tuster.
Hi Kenneth,
As many know from past videos, I'm dyslexic, with dyslexia I may say a wrong word that sounds similar to the right one (like extinct instead of distinct). I had the hardest time saying socket instead of sprocket. Indeed it is a tongue twister for the best of us.
Thanks for watching!
Cheers,
Bob
Good solution to the jib club, I chose to cast mine in 2 parts and have bought some beyond ridiculously expensive TIG welding rod to join them together.
I've never TIG welded bronze and the filler is too expensive to experiment with so here's hoping...
Hi Geoff,
Check out this link to Airgas. www.airgas.com/product/Welding-Products/Filler-Metal/TIG-Rod-%28GTAW%29/TIG-Rod---Bronze-Alloy/p/RAD64001567
You’ll fine welding bronze is almost easier than steel pools very fast.
Bob, That's one fine piece of work, thanks. I know you'll be saying somewhere along the way but just how do you plan to keep all the bronze SHINING?
I'm always in awe at the beauty of your finished products. Will you be using any threadlock (Licktite) before final instalation on the boat?
Excellent as usual. Any concern of water getting into the holes on the gaff causing rot? Drill fill drill with epoxy?
Thanks Paul, No concerns about moisture. The gaff is at the top of the main sail very unlikely to get wet. If so I will dry out easily. All bright work is sealed with varnished and will get inspected and revarnish every new sailing season.
Thanks for watching
Bob
Steve, I’m thinking that you need to add a metal lathe to your tool repertoire…. You NEED one, larger, and more beautiful…. 😎
Your work is very precise and whimsical. I love seeing who produces every item and accessory on this boat. A real jewel.
I have a question, I want to do some work that goes in polished brass, and I would like to know if I can use something that will keep it protected and beautiful for longer. I've been thinking about Renaissance Wax, is it the best option or are there better ones? Thank you.
Thanks Wagner,
Yes, was is the best choice. I’ve use lacquer based products for sealing bronze, brass etc. Even though made for exterior exposure one the years did not hold up and the one had to remove the sealant to re-polish. So was is the best and apply it often.
Cheers,
Bob
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Thank you so much Bob!
Bob! LOL... at 00:23 you very clearly say "Clib Jub" (I listened twice)!! Just to clarify, you meant Jib Club, yes? Great work, but still chuckling...
What particular bronze did you choose to use from McMaster? Would you choose a different bronze if you were going to make a casting? Thanks
Hi Scott,
Yes, I would use different bronze for casting. For fabrication I used c932 Bronze bearing stock from McMaster-Carr. This is a standard material for general purpose applications and one of the most popular bronze alloys. C932 bearing bronze is hard, strong, resistant to wear, resistant to impacts, and easily machined. Additionally, c932 bronze is ductile and resistant to corrosion. It can be easily soldered and brazed, though welding is not advised.
For casting I use Silicon Bronze. Silicon bronze is a low-lead brass alloy that is generally composed of 96 percent copper. The remainder can be made from silicon and a variety of other alloys such as manganese, tin, iron, or zinc. Silicon Bronze is known for its easy pouring ability, and easy welding properties. It too, in addition to its appealing surface finish, has superior corrosion resistant properties.
Thanks for your question and watching!
Cheers,
Bob
Although I just love the work you do and all the effort to make this a totally perfect boat. Arent you a little nervouse that actual day you put the boat to the test in a actual lake or the sea? I have lived my whole life by the sea and one thing I do know is that weather, water and wind takes a raging toll on the material. How long do you thinkt this boat will last in the mint condition? Or is it that you further on would appreciate a little patina?
Impressive fabrication skills as always! I admit I was looking at the drawing and thinking, “But where is the bend going to come from?” 😄 Was that in the plans or additional instructions, or did you figure it out?
Hi Fred,
The plans do not come with instructions. Seeing the bend in the drawings I decided the steam bending was the best approach.
Thanks for watching.
Bob
Funny how you wiped the wood glue on your finger under the edge of the workbench like a school kid sticking some gum up there.
Steve catches parts out of the lathe with his bare hands? OK then!
Hello Bob, nice work as always.
I think the brazed parts will be plenty stong. A little tip. When I need to make two equal flat metal part, I glue them together with a couple of drops superglue. But when you do this you need to frequently cool in water while grinding. Heat breaks the super glue bond. I always grinf without gloves to feel when it gets too hot.
I have a question about the varnish. I have a sail boat, no not a wooden one - fiber glass. My prior boat had quite some wooden parts though, e.g. the tiller. I never had any luck with marine varnish. Even with the best ones on the market I had to redo it every two year sometimes yearly. I switched to an UV stabilized oil (available on the market in Germany) this extended the time to refinish the surface to 3 to 4 years. Any experience / opinion?
@@johnstarkie9948 I fully agree, but I only can speak for my climate (southern Germany) and for me it is a difference if a finish last for a year or two or 4 to 5. Less maintenance, more sailing.
Is it too much to see a demo of how it works ? Object makes no sense to me
If it’s over your head then go an watch a sailing video!
I will once I finish the mast, boom and all of the rigging. Stay tuned you'll see it all coming together.
Thanks for watching.
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding thanx I’ll stick around then 👍
Please throw those cutting disks away
Already in the trash!