This is a great idea, and a pretty simple project for the home fabricator. I would change a couple of things: 1. Heavier material throughout. 1/8" isn't going to be up to the task for larger trailers, especially if they're loaded. I'd probably use 1/4" wall tubing and bar stock. 2. Move the hitch ball to a lower point on the frame. You shouldn't have to get off your tractor and raise the trailer. This is supposed to make things simpler. 3. Bevel the end plates where they weld to the tube, as well as the ends of the tube itself. This will allow deeper penetration and stronger welds. 4. Drill through the end plates where the pins attach, bevel the holes, and weld the inside and outside on the pins.
Thanks for watching. I'll respond to each one individually. 1. I was building this with scraps I had on hand. The main piece of square tubing is like a 3/32" this steel. I think it's enough. Everything else should be thicker, but again, I was was building it all with scraps on hand. 2. Ya, when I backed up to the trailer to pick it up and it wouldn't go low enough, I literally said out loud "well that defeats the whole purpose". I am going to weld a hitch receiver at the bottom of the red square tubing and use that primarily from here on out. 3. Thanks for the tip. 4. I considered doing this but it literally took me about 30 minutes to drill through for the ball in the top piece, I decided to try it as it is, If they break I'll use your suggestions on the repair. Thanks for the comment. Constructive and useful. These are the best kind. In hindsight, I do realize I probably cut a few too many corners.
Since finishing editing this video I think I have realized the real issue with the design. I was basing it on one I saw at tractor supply, and I’m not sure how they make theirs work, but I think all the weight/pressure of the trailers momentum is out on the top link. I really need to weld a hitch receiver on the bottom side of the square tubing so most of the weight it put on the two arms of the tractor instead of smashing into the top link.
We have a ball attachment for the forklift at work, makes the job of moving trailers around (something we do a lot of) really easy. Yeah I think reinforcing the top link mount would be good. I'd also consider welding a standard hitch reciever tube on there a little lower maybe more central or where the tubes intersect. First it would make it so you didn't have to jack your trailers as high up when hooking up. Second it would move the stress point more centrally, so if the weight of the trailer surges it spreads it to all three pins instead of just the top pin. Third the receiver would have a tiny bit of give which might slightly cushion any shocks. Looks like your welds held up great! Looking forward to the dump trailer video, those are super handy!
Thanks for the suggestion man. I am going to buy a receiver tube next time I am at HF and will weld it to the bottom. I also think I will get rid of the ball on top and reinforce the top link mounts.
Another “geometry” point to remember is the height of pivot points on arms and top link should be the same distance so hitch will stay close to vertical thru out it’s up and down travel if that makes sense 😊😊
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I think ya did good for your first try That’s how we learn by mistakes and successes keep on building there young fella
This is a great idea, and a pretty simple project for the home fabricator. I would change a couple of things:
1. Heavier material throughout. 1/8" isn't going to be up to the task for larger trailers, especially if they're loaded. I'd probably use 1/4" wall tubing and bar stock.
2. Move the hitch ball to a lower point on the frame. You shouldn't have to get off your tractor and raise the trailer. This is supposed to make things simpler.
3. Bevel the end plates where they weld to the tube, as well as the ends of the tube itself. This will allow deeper penetration and stronger welds.
4. Drill through the end plates where the pins attach, bevel the holes, and weld the inside and outside on the pins.
Thanks for watching. I'll respond to each one individually.
1. I was building this with scraps I had on hand. The main piece of square tubing is like a 3/32" this steel. I think it's enough. Everything else should be thicker, but again, I was was building it all with scraps on hand.
2. Ya, when I backed up to the trailer to pick it up and it wouldn't go low enough, I literally said out loud "well that defeats the whole purpose". I am going to weld a hitch receiver at the bottom of the red square tubing and use that primarily from here on out.
3. Thanks for the tip.
4. I considered doing this but it literally took me about 30 minutes to drill through for the ball in the top piece, I decided to try it as it is, If they break I'll use your suggestions on the repair.
Thanks for the comment. Constructive and useful. These are the best kind. In hindsight, I do realize I probably cut a few too many corners.
Since finishing editing this video I think I have realized the real issue with the design. I was basing it on one I saw at tractor supply, and I’m not sure how they make theirs work, but I think all the weight/pressure of the trailers momentum is out on the top link. I really need to weld a hitch receiver on the bottom side of the square tubing so most of the weight it put on the two arms of the tractor instead of smashing into the top link.
We have a ball attachment for the forklift at work, makes the job of moving trailers around (something we do a lot of) really easy.
Yeah I think reinforcing the top link mount would be good. I'd also consider welding a standard hitch reciever tube on there a little lower maybe more central or where the tubes intersect. First it would make it so you didn't have to jack your trailers as high up when hooking up. Second it would move the stress point more centrally, so if the weight of the trailer surges it spreads it to all three pins instead of just the top pin. Third the receiver would have a tiny bit of give which might slightly cushion any shocks.
Looks like your welds held up great!
Looking forward to the dump trailer video, those are super handy!
Thanks for the suggestion man. I am going to buy a receiver tube next time I am at HF and will weld it to the bottom. I also think I will get rid of the ball on top and reinforce the top link mounts.
Another “geometry” point to remember is the height of pivot points on arms and top link should be the same distance so hitch will stay close to vertical thru out it’s up and down travel if that makes sense 😊😊
Mistakes corrected is how we all learn!
The ball is WAY too high . Can't get under trailers unless they are raised .
This trailer his has been modified since I made this video. I removed the ball on top and welded a receiver to the bottom and use regular hitches.