Thank you, I was a bit worried it would not help people but clearly it has! Many thanks. Please don't forget to give a thumbs up and to subscribe, lots more to come!. Best, Mark
Outbreak could be my saviour! And also your tip on over feeding. My fish definitely guilt trip me into feeding them too much. I will try and only feed them once a day and not give into the begging. I’m loving these vids. Before I come across these, I searched high and low and found so much contradictory info out there. I’ve found a lot of missing pieces of the puzzle here. Thank you!
Hi Mark. Just a shoutout to you for taking the time and energy to produce these videos! I’ve killed quite a few fish in the past and now I totally understand why and how. 😢. I have a beautiful biOrb 15L with 5 striped danios. All doing fabulously.
Hi Denise. A big thanks for that... I'm really glad if the Channel has helped you. It's never easy getting an aquarium going but it sounds like you've got there! Great job! Best wishes, mark x
First water change done, went with a 5l change to get the hang of it! Great tip about using a colander to help ease the new water in. Threw 35ml of colony in too as per your advice.
Great matt, yes take it easy with those tetras. Tetras and cycling aren't exactly a match made in heaven but sounds like they are all fine and you've done a wonderful job! . Not too much change of water for those little guys while they settle in. Colony will see you through and get that ammonia down to zero. Give it several days to get the Colony fixed, and not in suspension, and then another water change on say four days from now. My money is on that you will be at zero ammonia and nitrite by then!
Really appreciate all your comments so far Matt. Keep it up. That's exactly what I was hoping for with this channel. In a way, the comment discussion is probably more important than the videos! But, I hope my videos have helped you to at least do something you may not have done otherwise!
So, did you follow my suggestion of a 5ml water bottle (for your new water) and a marked-up (measured 5l and 10l) bucket to do your water change? I sort of developed the approach over time but I find it really makes the whole process of water change really easy and fast and helps to standardise everything. You can probably guess what Im up to this morning - water changes for two aquariums. Lol!
Will be watching this again later as we are going to be doing our first water change tomorrow or Saturday. Tank has been going a week now and today is the first day we didn't add the petsathome BB. Just tested the water and have 0.25 ammonia 0 nitrite and 20ppm Nitrate. So all spooking pretty good I think! We swapped the food out as the flakes on the surface was causing them to gulp air. Got some Fluval bug bites food now that suspends in the water.
Great news Matt, and only in a week (with fish in)! Big congratulations, time to open some wine! Just keep on testing your water now that you've stopped with adding BB. Perhaps do a 10 litre change to remove a bit of that ammonia and get your nitrate back down (although 20ppm is fine) and allow those nitrite converting bacteria to build-up a bit more (they often take a bit longer though) - Nitrate levels look really good and overall you're almost fully cycled. I think your ammonia looks fine (probably, you have very low free ammonia in that reading anyway). Please don't tell your fish I suggested this to you but (now whispering... a day or two of no feed would likely see that ammonia converted and looking around zero!) Depends on how easily you can cope with your food demanding fish :-) With tetras you might want to think about adding a VERY small bit of aquarium driftwood just to provide a small bit of tannin, up to you though as I appreciate it can add a slight bit of "tea colour" to the water after about a week (but that would go away with your weekly water change).
Great and simple way to explain the things you should do in a fish tank. I should get a 45 liter biorb soon, and i pretend to use some of your tips and advices . Thanks and best regards from Portugal.
Many thanks Concalo. So great to hear from you from Portugal! It's really great that people find these videos helpful. Thanks so much for watching, Mark
Your English is so perfect! From Ana: Oi tudo bem? Que legal (fixe) que voce se inscreveu no canal! Eu tenho familia em Portugal; em Oeiras e amigos em Lisboa! Adoro Portugal! Grande abraco!
Hi Donna. Many thanks for watching... really appreciated. Don't forget to Like :). Hopefully the video will point you in the right direction. I normally work on the basis of replacing 10 litres from a 30 litre aquarium (i.e. one third) so you can apply that sort of ratio to your own situation. Any problems - just shout! Take care and... very happy water changes! Mark
Hi Mark, hope all is well. So I am now the proud owner of 3 new fish (tetras). I did exactly as now trained by you on the preparation of the tank leaving it to cycle for several days to settle and slowly introducing the fish. They couldn’t wait to get into the tank and raced around I hope with excitement! I measured the perimeters daily to keep a close eye on the levels and I started to see spikes in the nitrite levels. Everything else seemed ok. I realised that perhaps I was slightly over feeding and although I tried to make sure as little fish food hit the bottom of the tank some did. So without further ado, I felt a water change was in order now after a few days. The water was prepared and I added the correct amount of aquasafe gently reintroducing the new water back into the tank approx 10l change. The temperature was also a little high so took the opportunity to bring down to approx~25c. The fish seemed happy and are darting around feeling confident!!:) I will check later to see how things are going re parameters. Fingers crossed they are under control now. The tank itself is very clean so did not need to perform any other cleaning activities for now. So far so good I think and the fish have survived nearly a week. This morning as I walked in to check on them they swam around in a circle then hid in a shell!! I think they were playing! :)) Thanks again Mark for all your help so far with this it has been massively helpful!
Hi Oliver. Sounds good. Hopefully your nitrates will start to show and increase as nitrite levels drop. You need to monitor ammonia, nitrite and nitrate right through the period of cycling. Did you use ATM Colony? Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Hi Mark Yes I will keep an eye on it for sure. Yes I do have Colony but I haven’t put any in. Do you recommend I do? Regards Oliver.
Apologies I was going to say having now got this far with the process. I figured the sachets that came with the biorb would be enough to get going. I can easily put some in if you recommend!
Yes, I would certainly suggest also adding ATM Colony for cycling especially with fish-in cycling (and also with Tetras which can be fairly sensitive to cycling depending on your local tap water pH etc ).
Hi Maria. Welcome to the channel and a big thanks for watching. I'm really glad you find the videos of help. I hope the water change goes well - its all straightforward and easy peasy once you've done the first one. Best, Mark
Good series of videos. Just resurrected my life60 after a year in storage so good for a refresher. Good idea about thermometer, I was just using my finger before! Got a nice laser thermometer from Amazon to point at water to get it accurate. Keep up the videos, thank you.
It's a pleasure and thank you for your wonderful comments and support to my new Channel. Thanks for the like and sub - much appreciated. Best wishes to you, Mark.
Another excellent video! Your water change tips are very useful and the colander idea when adding the new water is terrific. Is the Outbreak different from the Colony bottle you used in the videos when first setting up a fish tank? Can the Colony bottle that you used in the video when first setting up the aquarium tank be used for water changes until the bottle is finished or empty, or do you recommend Colony Outbreak for water changes once the tank has been established and settled instead? Thanks for all of your helpful videos.
Thanks for your kind comments, they are really appreciated. ATM Colony is mainly used to cycle a tank with fish added at the same time. It contains nitrifying bacteria (to convert ammonia and nitrite). Yes, it can be continued to be added with your aquarium, say a cap full each time (especially when establishing a new tank), as it will help to make sure the aquarium is fully cycled and to limit ammonia and nitrite. Instead, ATM Outbreak is designed to target (breakdown) fish waste and waste food - it contains different bacteria. So, the two aren't the same thing. You will have a build-up of fish and food waste over time and that tends to end up under the ceramic media. Outbreak will help to reduce this material (in its size) and so the reduced by-product is finer and more likely to get pulled, along the bottom of the aquarium, and end up being trapped in your filter sponge (mechanical filter). So, Outbreak is a useful product to get once the tank is running and does help with this particular issue associated with the way biOrbs work. Unlike nitrifying bacteria, which form a fairly permanent colony in the tank, the bacteria in Outbreak decline in number. So, Outbreak bacteria need to be added weekly (to maintain the quantity of bacteria) and I suggest, after undertaking a weekly water change.
Hi Jacqueline. Sorry about that, but Amazon's fault, I've updated the link. However I suggest you go to the information held under my specifically video covering vacs. That provides a number of links (all working) to the correct type of vac. Note, the vacs in the links are all from the same manufacturer but are sold under different brand names. They are all the same product, but the costs can vary! Get a battery operated one, with a hose provided. See here: th-cam.com/video/wtU0Cqx9yes/w-d-xo.html. Best, Mark
Hi Mark, great video. I have a Biorb life 60l, which I have had for a few years with just a few fish in and sad to say, I had neglected water changes and ended with old tank syndrome. After adding a few more fish and trying to reinstate and water change schedule, I over stressed the fish and sadly lost them. I am committed to a new start with much better fish care. can you tell me:- How much media in a 60l tank Do you Vac the Gravel every water change? I noticed when I did this it removed quite a lot of solid debris, or should you do this with monthly filter change. Is the standard 50w Biorb heater big enough for 60l? my temp seems to always be on the lower end on strip reader, I'm set to 77 but it seems to hover around 74/75. thanks in advance. Nick
Hi Nick. Nice to hear from you. Yes, it sounds like the changes you made where possibly too much all in one go. Fish can put up with a lot of things but big changes in their environment (even for the better) can often have negative impacts. In terms of water changes, I would work on undertaking weekly water changes of 1/3rd of the tank water (but this dependent on the number of fish you have and also the quality of your tap water). The lesser the fish number, the less you need to do water changes, the better the quality of your tap water (i.e. low nitrate level) the less you need to change. An alternative approach is to undertake a water change when the tanks nitrates get to between 40ppm to 50ppm. In terms of the ceramic media quantity. If using the "traditional" ceramic media, then 2 to 2.5 kilos would be what you would need (Alfagrog E25 is the same product and size as the biOrb product but is far cheaper!: ). eBay is a good place to get this from. Make sure you get E25 rather than E40 as E40 has a larger stone size (40mm). If using biOrb's new media product (Pearl Media) you would need 3 kilos in this size tank: amzn.to/3WvXoLe The frequency of using a battery operated vac is also dependent on the number of fish (i.e. waste production). I tend to specifically vac (i.e. using a vac with a filter bag attached) waste when I can see it along the bottom edge of the tank (under the media). As a battery vac can be used to undertake water changes, you can basically do a light vac every week and at the same time remove water during the water change (that's what I tend to do as it just helps to keep on top of waste). This is the only vac type that works in a biOrb: amzn.to/3G2AnZo. It allows you remove water and also undertake water changes. Easy peasy! As you are starting again, I would suggest cleaning out the tank completely (to remove all waste), add new ceramic media and refill with fresh water. It would be worth adding a few handfulls of your existing ceramic media (initially) as that will help quickly seed the tank with existing beneficial bacteria. As you would be basically starting from scratch I suggest you use a bacterial support product such as Aquavitro Seed to support cycling the tank. eBay is a good place to get this product. A 50w heater should be fine with a 60. It is a nearer match to the size of the tank than a 100w would be. I use 50w in 60L and retain a temp of 76 which is probably the sweet spot for most tropicals. The temp you have is only very slightly on the cooler side of the tropical fish range but is still a good match for most of them. Is it possible to turn it up a bit (the temp range normally shown on a heater is indicative so isn't necessarily what the heater will heat at!)? Hope that helps. If you need anything else... just shout. Best wishes, Mark
Thanks Mark, great advice. I have done what you suggested and started from fresh using a little of my existing media to get it going. One thing I noticed regarding temp was changing the Airstone, I thought it was fine but a replacement has significantly increased the Bubble rate which I think is now circulating the water around the tank and distributing the heat much better. I was well under on media previously (around 1k) so now up to 2.5k and doing a full cicle before even thinking of adding any fish...Thanks for your help, I'm sure I'll be back. Nick
Perfect Nick! Yes, the airstone (depending on age) will reduce air flow, so a new one can certainly help with that. Something I didn't think to mention... Thanks! On a tank that size (60l), I think the additional media quantity will help somewhat and should get your biological filter working efficiently and spot-on for your fish. All sounds very good. Always happy to help in any way that i can. Just shout! Feel free to come back! Best, Mark
I love your videos. So helpful! Thank you! Will you please send a link or tell me the name of the water-fill vacuum/pump that you recommend for the ceramic media ? The link you have no longer goes to this item on Amazon. Thank you very much!
Hi Sarah. Thanks for watching and supporting the Channel. Thanks for the very nice comments too. Yes, Amazon links are a big burden! They always keep changing and its hard to keep up. So, basically there is only one type of vac that works with a biOrb. They are all produced by the same manufacturer but are sold under different product names (and prices!). The battery ones are far better than those with mains power cables. Here are current links to the ones I can find: amzn.to/3WxQ7K0 and amzn.to/3R3n5RK and amzn.to/3HrEwb6. These all work well with the biOrb ceramic media and the new biOrb pearl media and are also very good for undertaking water changes etc. The best spare filter bags to trap all waste (that fit the above) are the ones which have a very fine structure (some others products let waste particles through). The ones I use are these: amzn.to/3XQjdWh. Hopefully the Amazon links will stay live for the time being! LoL. Hope that helps. Best wishes, Mark
Should I do water changes even if all my readings are perfect? I’ve had the aquarium for about 6 weeks with 1 fish. My GH level is the only reading I’ve seen change. Started out at 60 ppm, now it’s at 180ppm 6 weeks later. PH is 7.5. So what do you think I should do?
Hi Joe. The main reason to undertake water changes is to maintain suitable water quality parameters for the fish species you have (largely they are undertaken to reduce nitrate levels back down). With a very low number of fish, the water quality will typically remain at a suitable level for much longer. So, there isn't much reason to change. I'm just wondering what is causing your GH to rise though? 180ppm is a bit high for a typical aquarium, although this depends on the fish species. Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb I’m thinking it has something to do with the food I’m introducing into tank. Baby dried shrimp and betta pellets. Going to do a water change later, hopefully that will lower it a bit. Thanks Mark. Love the channel by the way. Extremely informative in the BiOrb aquarium!
Hi Mark. Your videos are very helpful. Is the purpose of the 24-hr wait time so that the water can achieve room temperature or for the Water Conditioner to work its magic? Thank you!
Hi Susie. Nice to hear from you and thanks for visiting the Channel. There are numerous reasons to wait at least 24 hours. If you are running a tank at room temp then yes, it can take at least 24 hours to get the tanks temp to stabilise. It also allows a full check that everything in the tank is working as it should - such as the air pump (i.e air flow in the tank) and the heater. If things are not working properly is best to know that before fish. Water treatments, dechlorinators etc are normally instant, so it is less about waiting for those to do what they are supposed to do. Once a tank has been running for at least 24 hours you will need to test the water in the tank to make sure nothing has changed compared to your tap. A typical test is to check that the pH level has remained the same. Tap water may often include carbon dioxide, which then gases off when exposed to air. This normally takes 24-48 hours. The removal of CO2 may cause the tank's pH to rise. It is important to know if the tank's pH is not stable. You mention Water Conditioner. Are you referring to the biOrb product and do you plan to use that to cycle the tank? If so, I would suggest that you instead look at alternative bacterial products for aquarium cycling such as API QuickStrat; Tetra safeStrat or ATM Colony (Freshwater). These will better support the addition of fish and will also provide you with the quantities of bacteria needed to support the duration of cycling. Fish choice should match your water conditions. So, choose fish that are best suited to your tap water quality and tank conditions. Choose a small number of hardy fish initially as those will be better suited to the early stages of having a newly set-up tank. I hope that helps. Best wishes, Mark.
New to video, haven't done full water change, since I had tank, 14mths ago, shamedly, done 10 Ltre cahnge 3 weeks ago and have lost 15 fish!!! Can I empty tank and do a complete tank change, how do I clean ceramic stones in bottom? I'vw been scrubbing plastic plants in dirty water, but my castle is not getting clean. ordered Hydro vac, thermometer, tetra sage conditioner, ready, what do you suggest HELP!!!
Hi Lynda. Yes, a sudden change in water quality can easily result in fish death. Even going from very poor water to very good water can be detrimental. Far better to change the water very gradually over a number of days to slowly improve the water over time. You may have also triggered what is often called "new tank syndrome". Always apply dechlorinator to tap water (e,g, AquaSafe: amzn.to/3QW8NRR) prior to adding water to the tank and always warm your new water so that it is roughly the same as your tank's water before adding it. In terms of cleaning plastic plants etc... Watch my video about cleaning decorations and plastic plants by soaking in a diluted bleach solution. You need to use "basic" of "thin" bleach rather than toilet type bleach (the type of product to get is this: amzn.to/3chnIal). Diluted bleach should clean most of the plastic plants and the castle without any need for scrubbing. Scrubbing is not a good way to clean biOrb products and will degrade plastics, painted items and acrylic surfaces. If it was me, I would empty the tank and start afresh! Unless, that is, you have any surviving fish that you want to retain. What size is your tank? 15 fish, depending on the species, seems to be a lot for many biOrb size tanks. Whether your ceramic media is still good is very hard for me to say. It might have become heavily soiled with waste etc and a lot of the surface pores clogged with waste.. As it is fairly cheap, I would be tempted to say to completely replace the ceramic media with brand new. Get Alfagrog - it is the same as biOrb ceramic media but cheaper and tends to have more consistent "stone" size. For most sized biOrbs 1kg of media is more than enough. It is this type of product here: amzn.to/3RsxOnN If you are starting from scratch. You will need to cycle your aquarium to ensure that it will support fish. Happy to help further... just shout! Best wishes, Mark
Mark I had one more question. So I just buy the BiOrb service kits. In the service kit comes 2 packets. 1 water conditioner and 1 biological booster. I do a 2 gallon water change in my 8 gallon aquarium once a month. Is it necessary to keep adding the biological booster during every water change as indicated on the packets? My aquarium seems to have a sporadic boost in algae growth since my last change. Adding the biological booster pack seems unnecessary at a monthly water change. Adding it every other water change would seem more appropriate. Possibly longer. What is your opinion on this matter? Thanks
Hi Joe. My opinion is: don't buy the service kits and don't add the biOrb sachets. That approach will be cost you a fortune over time! Instead get alternative replacement sponge filters and filter medium. You should be able to get these as kits such as this: amzn.to/48HbzmH These types of product are simply added to your existing biOrb filter tray/canister. The only thing to add is a simple (basic) dechlorinator to deal with tap chlorine/chloramine. I use this product for all my tanks: amzn.to/41slCJQ . Add 2.5ml to each 5 litres of tap water you use for undertaking water changes. There isn't really need to keep adding a biological booster unless you really want to. I'm not sure it provides any advantages, although it certainly won't harm to do so. I generally don't add biological booster unless there is a need - such as setting-up a new tank, or adding more fish, or following a big tank clean out. The algae (I assume diatoms?) are probably reflecting the availability of nutrients in your tank. These are typically nitrate levels (and/or phosphate levels). What are you tank nitrate levels just prior to doing a water change? If nutrients are getting a bit too high it might be worth changing the frequency of your water changes to every two weeks to help reduce down nutrient levels. Water changes are best accompanied by doing a quick vac around the bottom of the tank to reduce waste. I hope that helps. Best wishes, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thanks again Mark. Always super informative as usual. My N02 & N03 levels are always near nil every time I check it, via the test strips. Don’t know if those are 100% accurate though. Thanks for the links for the supplies!
Great! I would personally move away from test strips and move instead to using liquid/ reagent testing (e.g. API Freshwater Test Kit) . A zero reading for nitrite and nitrate in the tank water would not promote algae (diatom) growth... but you have indicated you have this. If you do go down the reagent test route please let me know what your nitrate readings are as I very much doubt it will be zero/nil. Best wishes, Mark
Well, that's a good question. The biOrb ceramic media is very difficult to clean using a siphon. Siphons work great with sand and small gravel media etc (electric syphons to a lesser extent), but I've not found a way or product to do it with the biOrb media. So, I tend to clean under my ceramic media on my three monthly clean (it certainly needs it by then) - which unfortunately means taking the whole lot out (and keeping it in some of the extracted tank water) and then siphoning the bottom of the tank to remove the waste. Then I put it all back in the aquarium again! I'm currently trying out ATM Outbreak which is made to target all that waste material and help break it down Hopefully I will see a difference in the waste amount when i do my three monthly. if you find anything that really works though, let me know. It would certainly need a lot a power behind it to pull the waste from underneath (which is where most waste ends up). I hoping that be reducing the size of the waste it might get drawn more to the mechanical filter so can be dealt with by filter cleaning and changes. Nice to hear from you, thanks for watching, very much appreciated. Best, Mark
Step-by-Step Thanks for your answer Mark… That makes total sense. I use a siphon and just push it down on the gravel and as I pump, all of the muck that is either on top or underneath the gravel manages to get sucked up. However, I have a standard Fishtank so it might be different. I like the idea of the outbreak… I might try that myself. Have a great day 👍
@@NorthernMigrationTravel Oh, I dream of the days I could just remove waste like that. It is the one thing I dislike about biOrbs - and that the whole biOrb system is largely designed around the use of this very rough ceramic media. This makes it very hard to clean but it can also occasionally result in the loss of smaller fish that get themselves stuck within it and struggle to get back out. Take care and enjoy that easy siphoning!
I have purchased a battery powered aquarium vac. When l put it near the biorb media it draws the waste up through the media and catches it in a filter bag. The water goes straight back in the tank. I do this about once a week and it keeps the waste level down.
Hi Mark, hope you are well my aquarium seems to be having a little bit of trouble, I seem to have a web like fuzz over the ceramic media I am going to do a 10L water change to try and help it out any sort of advice? Thanks Sean
Hi Sean. Is it green in colour? (google: filamentous algae)? Regardless, I don't think it is a problem (for fish) and I'm not sure you need to rush into a water change. Let me know. Best, Mark
If it is a brand new aquarium, cycling or just cycled, algae can often be part of the new tank process - until the tank settles down. Let me know colour of it.
Hey M, how much water do you replace on your monthly water change? In addition, how often do you clean your plants and the inside of the tank? I take it you clean the plants in the removed dirty water? Thanks 😊
Hey V. Nice to hear from you. Well, the frequency of water change depends on the tanks water quality (especially nitrates) which is linked to the number of fish you have and also how bad your tap water's nitrate level is. I would normally go with doing weekly water changes, at a lesser amount, rather than leave it for too long and then do a large change. Fish can tolerate poorer water better than they can deal with a sudden change of water quality (even if the change is with better quality water). This is the main the reason that we need to acclimatise new fish to the water in your tank by slowly adding tank water to the bag they come in. The smaller quantity and more frequent approach avoids a sudden change. As an indicator of when and how much, the main trigger for tends to be nitrate as this needs to be kept less than 40ppm... but far less nitrate is always far better. Generally I would look to do a 1/4 or 1/3rd of the tank's water for each change (I do 1/3rd per week in all tanks!). I wouldn't go more than a 50% water change unless there was a specific reason to do this (mainly to deal with a high peak of ammonia or nitrite during cycling). For me, I also tend to use TDS measurements as I try to keep the water TDS in the preferred range for the fish in each tank . My fresh tap water has a high TDS to start with (very annoying!) so I'm therefore trying to maintain this low within the aquariums. Sorry that's not a specific answer to the water change question but it does depend on the various things I mention above. Anyway, I hope it helps. On plants etc. Once you are well beyond cycling the conditions in the tank tend to stabilise so plastic (and real plants) and decorations don't tend to get as discoloured as much as compared to the early settling down stages. For light "soiling" (biofilm, green algae or diatoms (aka "brown algae) , yes, just give them a clean in the extracted aquarium water from a water change and then put them back in. For heavier algae and discolouration the best approach is the method I describe in my video about cleaning with thin bleach dilution (this avoids the need for a brush and heavy scrubbing etc... which really doesn't do biOrb decorations and plants much good in the longer term). I tend to use bleach cleaning for the things in my tank and I probably do that every 2-3 of months. Best wishes, M.
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Perfect! Thanks so much! Really helpful. Have just started to get some brown discolouration on the plants and pebbles and a couple of spots on the BiOrb, so will look to give a little clean. Will never do more than a 50% change of water and will stick with the little changes as much as I can. Enjoy your long weekend :)
Yes, the brown (diatoms) is a classic early tank scenario. They are a good indicator of things going all okay in the tank, especially if the tank water is looking clear. They remove nutrients from the water so are not really a "bad thing" and they have no impact at all on fish etc. But, they just mess up the appearance of the tank and can coat everything if left to do their thing! Lol. You should find that they are fairly easy to remove though (just wipe off). Green algae tends to be the next lot of things to appear (but are also a good sign) but green algae tends to be a bit more stubborn to clean off. Have a great (long) weekend. M
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Hi M, I did a 10ltr water change on my 30ltr today and used 5ltrs of the old water to clean the plants, pebbles and centre piece. They came up lovely! I also used the BiOrb cleaning pads for inside. Very impressed with those. The filter sponge hadn’t got very dirty at all so just ringed that out in some of the water and put it back. Even though I only changed 10ltr, the tank is looking wonderful again! I have a vacuum on order to deal with sucking out some of the bottom debris. So far so good so thank you 😊
Hi. Can you let me know if the sound is coming from the actual pump itself or is it coming from the aquarium? Also, is the amount of air, flowing up through the central tube in the aquarium, the same as when you first got it (it should be a fairly good constant flow of air). Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb thanks for the reply it's from the actual aquarium. I placed a new air stone which initially helped when I reposition the air stone it also seems to help for a short while.
Hey, not a problem Interesting that you said it got better for a while when you changed the air stone. Might be worth messing around with that - see if altering the position of the air stone helps. Also, could the sound be resonating from the table or unit that the aquarium is sitting on.? You could try reducing the aquarium's water by 50%, slightly lift up one side of the aquarium and put a couple of small felt pads in each corner (sorry, Im assuming it is a square shaped tank!) , then lift up the other side and put another two pads under that side. Might be worth trying that when you do a water change - at least to rule that out.
Also, just double check the air pipe is pushed fully into the air pump - as far as it will go. Best way to do that is take pipe off the pump, add saliva to the end of the tube and then push it hard back on.
Hi Mark. I've found your videos so helpful. I am struggling though to keep my fish happy after a water change. I have 15L Biorb with 4 platys. I do a 1.5L water change weekly, test the water temp and use the same products you recommend, the water readings are all good but sometimes when I carry out this weekly change, after a few hours the fish hide for atleast 24hours. So they are clearly not happy with the environment. I really don't know what I'm doing wrong? I have biorb plants and few accessories that do get a bit green after a week so I clean these at the same time... could this be the problem? I lost some minows after a 3monthly clean but I'm sure it was because I took too much good bacteria out whilst changing a large volume of water and hoovering the ceramic membrane so very worried about making more mistakes. Grateful for any advice. Emma
Hi Emma. First, may thanks for visiting the Channel and for the supportive comments. Much appreciated. A question: what do you use to undertake water changes... is it a Vac or is it a syphon? Let me know, as my answer will vary according to how you undertake the water changes.
Thanks Emma. I think a syphon might be a bit too much in a 15l. I would standardise the approach you use. Do everything with your vac (cleaning and water changes) - the fish can then get used to the regular use of a vac. It can take fish a while to get used to most things...so standardising the approach you use will help them to understand they are not in danger. Once fish get used to something they can go the complete opposite and be a bit too enquiring and get totally in the way! Lol. If you are using a vac to thoroughly clean under the media (weekly, and using a filter bag attachment for that) then this should help eliminate the need for you to do a deep clean that involves removing the ceramic media etc. When you did the deep clean (3 month) did that release lots of waste into the water? If so, this could explain the loss of fish, (although minnows are normally considered very hardy) as the process may have released too much pollutant into the water column. Removing tank water will not generally reduce beneficial bacteria as they form on surfaces, rather than being present in the water column, and are not removed through water changes. If you have a high waste build up this is indicative of having too many fish and/or giving too much food at each feed (this resulting in too much fish and waste build up). This also indicated by the "greening" of accessories/ plants. Algae growth should generally not happen over the span of a week. I think your 10% water changes per week are not enough for your tank as your fish numbers exceed what can be supported in a 15L. I would remove and replace 1/3rd of the tank water weekly (so, 5L per week) and see how that helps with improving the water quality. Are you monitoring the nitrate levels in the tank? Nitrates should be limited to being up to 40ppm by the time you do a water change. Let me know if you are getting much higher levels. A 1/3rd water change would remove much of the nutrients that the algae are currently thriving on (mainly nitrates). However, it will take a number of weeks for the larger water changes to show benefits within the tank water, but it will get better. Sorry if that seems to be a long list of things you need to consider but I do hope it helps. Let me know if you need anything further as I'm very keen to help get your tank back on an even keel. Best wishes, Mark
Thank you so much Mark. I will certainly try the larger water changes and maybe I am over feeding them... they do poo lots.. so will reduce that too! I suppose I'm nervous of the larger water change as I lost the minows. The water did become murky during the 3month change. I took the filter out and rinsed that in the original water as per the aquarium instructions... could that have been a contributing factor. I've tried to follow the advice given from where I purchased the fish but clearly not working and don't want to trial and error with life. The nitrite levels appear to be in range, I am using a basic dip test strip, maybe I need a more accurate reader. I will do what you suggest and keep you updated with any progress. Thank you again so much for your time! Emma x
Not a problem. The channel is all about helping people and their fish - end of ! The higher water change will be fine, if you are worried about this, then try 2.5L water change the next time you do one and then 5L the week after that. Sometimes it is best to do things gradually and not all at once! I think your target should be 5L water change every week. Test strips are generally fine, and if that is what your prefer and are used to... then certainly go with those. They provide indicative information but that is not a problem. Liquid tests are more accurate (API Test kit) but are far more involved (take far longer to do them) although are are a lower cost approach in the longer term (following the high cost initial outlay!). I think the only thing you may really need to keep an eye on is nitrate. If you are getting high nitrate levels in the tank (when compared to the nitrate in your tap water) let me know as I have a solution you could use to get the nitrates down and this would also help reduce algae. If aquarium nitrates remain in the "upto 40 ppm" throughout the week then I think what you are doing is fine. Take care and best wishes, Mark x
Silly question- with the monthly water change, can you change the filter/ carbon while the fish are in the tank? Fyi- I'm a complete novice here but watching ALL your videos (in order lol) & taking notes! Thank you for making the time (especially with a young child) to make these helpful videos... we're getting my daughter an aquarium for her 6th birthday in April, so Mommy is doing research/ learning!
Ignore this since I just got to the "change filter" video!!! I'm going to now hold all my questions till I get through all your videos! Thank you again for the informative videos!
Lol. That's not a problem. :). Basically you should do nearly everything with the fish left inside the tank. There are hardy instances where you might need to take them out (e.g disease etc). Trying to catch fish is very difficult and then removing them all causes them a lot of stress.... better to leave them feeling secure in their home. Standard/regular maintenance such as water changes, filter/carbon changes, vacumming up waste, and general cleaning of the inside of the glass, plants and decor should all be done with fish in. Great that you are getting your daughter an aquarium. My six year old is wildlife mad and loves the tanks and has "his own" (although I always get the short straw on looking after it). The other one (five year old) is far less interested.
Hi Debbie, Yes that is exactly what my next video is about and should be out very early next week. The three monthly is more about what you need to do with the ceramic media... other than that, water changes, filter changes etc should be more frequent. Best wishes and nice to hear from you. Best, Mark
Thanks Debbie. Very glad to hear you find them helpful/good. Thanks for your support. I only intended originally to do just a few videos but... :) Lol. M
Hi again Debbie. Sorry, it looks like I'm going to struggle to get the new video out as I originally planned - hopefully by the end of this coming weekend now. The "three month" water change is focused on removing the aquarium's ceramic media (to clean it in aquarium water) and also removing the built-up waste that has been trapped under the media (this best done with a vac with filter bag attached). If you would rather do the clean before my next video goes live, ket me know as I would be happy to describe the steps needed using this comment thread. Best wishes, mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Hi Mark, That’s a shame, thank you for letting me know. How much water do you take out? Do you take out a bit more than normal? Do you leave the fish in or put them in a temporary tank?
Hi Mark, you may be sorry that I found your videos, I'm likely to have lots of questions lol. An elderly relative has a 105lt sphere, has been hospitalised recently, returned home to one remaining fish. It seems good neighbour intentions fell short with sporadic feeding and to remedy a lot of dirt at the bottom the majority of the media was removed, it is sitting at the side of the tank in a bucket (not in water). As a novice I have no idea how to help get her tank back on track. Whatever advice you can offer will be appreciated? So far I have done a few very minor water changes adding Aquasafe as I thought doing one big change maybe too much for the fish to cope with?... Thanks.
Hi Mina. Lol, I wasn't expecting that one! :) Yes, of course I can advise how to do that. A couple of questions - is the tank heated? What is the current number of fish, type size? Sorry, this might add to your TH-cam watch time, but if you go to the Step-by-Step Channel page and click on the Playlists tab I have created a library of the key videos designed to take people through how to start and maintain a biOrb. My suggestion is probably to start all over again with the aquarium, i.e. treat it as though it is a brand new aquarium. In terms of the ceramic media in the bucket you mention - is that reasonably clean? Let me know re the above and I can then suggest what you should do. Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb I'm full of surprises lol :)... In answer to your questions, current temp is 27.3 celcius. There is 1 x white widow fish who remarkably seems to be in good health. Some artificial plants, some rocks (poss limestone) and the centre decor are still in the tank, whilst most media and a couple of rocks (again limestone) have been removed. I do think it could be rinsed and returned to the tank. My first API master kit arrived this morning, I will check water perameters now by following your video and confirm shortly. Many thanks Mina
I have now completed a water check, which shows ammonia = 0...Nitrate = 5-10....Nitrite = 0....pH high range = 8....i have also reduced the heater thermometer slightly to bring the current temp down, I will keep monitoring this...thanks Mina
That's perfect Nina. That makes things fairly easy. Temp is great and only one fish to deal with at this moment. Do you plan to re-stock the tank with more fish? I suggest you leave the rocks etc in the tank for the time being as that is where the beneficial bacteria are likely to be. With the ceramic media in the bucket, I suggest a really good clean with tap water, feel free to use very hot water from a kettle, to give it a good clean by swirling it around. Then rinse it out with more tap water, and then once more. Once cleaned put it back in a clean bucket for now (i.e. don't put into the tank). You will eventually , before adding to the tank, need to soak the ceramic media in dechlorinated water (i.e. by using a double dose of Aquasafe - so 5ml per 5 litre of water) for about a day just to remove all traces of chlorine. That should give you nice clean media. Let me know if you intend to add more fish as you would probably need to get ATM Colony to provide additional bacteria. Leave all rocks and any remainder of media in the tank as we can use that to help seed the tank as this will already contain the beneficial bacteria. Next question, do you have a syphon to extract tank water?
Absolutely fantastic instructions. I'm new to this and this video was so easy to listen to and understand
Glad it was helpful! Best wishes, Mark
First time Ive found something really good on how to do a water change. Many thanks
Thank you, I was a bit worried it would not help people but clearly it has! Many thanks. Please don't forget to give a thumbs up and to subscribe, lots more to come!. Best, Mark
Yes, once you get the hang of it it just becomes part of the things to do, and fairly easy! For me, its a weekly thing!
Outbreak could be my saviour! And also your tip on over feeding. My fish definitely guilt trip me into feeding them too much. I will try and only feed them once a day and not give into the begging. I’m loving these vids. Before I come across these, I searched high and low and found so much contradictory info out there. I’ve found a lot of missing pieces of the puzzle here. Thank you!
You are very welcome! Best, Mark
Perfect timing, we are doing out first water change Thursday!
That's great Matt! It's almost like I knew :). Hope all is going well with you and that aquarium.
Hi Mark. Just a shoutout to you for taking the time and energy to produce these videos! I’ve killed quite a few fish in the past and now I totally understand why and how. 😢. I have a beautiful biOrb 15L with 5 striped danios. All doing fabulously.
Hi Denise. A big thanks for that... I'm really glad if the Channel has helped you. It's never easy getting an aquarium going but it sounds like you've got there! Great job! Best wishes, mark x
First water change done, went with a 5l change to get the hang of it! Great tip about using a colander to help ease the new water in. Threw 35ml of colony in too as per your advice.
Great matt, yes take it easy with those tetras. Tetras and cycling aren't exactly a match made in heaven but sounds like they are all fine and you've done a wonderful job! . Not too much change of water for those little guys while they settle in. Colony will see you through and get that ammonia down to zero. Give it several days to get the Colony fixed, and not in suspension, and then another water change on say four days from now. My money is on that you will be at zero ammonia and nitrite by then!
Really appreciate all your comments so far Matt. Keep it up. That's exactly what I was hoping for with this channel. In a way, the comment discussion is probably more important than the videos! But, I hope my videos have helped you to at least do something you may not have done otherwise!
So, did you follow my suggestion of a 5ml water bottle (for your new water) and a marked-up (measured 5l and 10l) bucket to do your water change? I sort of developed the approach over time but I find it really makes the whole process of water change really easy and fast and helps to standardise everything. You can probably guess what Im up to this morning - water changes for two aquariums. Lol!
I set up a Biorb last week and find your videos really helpful. They are very clear and informative. Thank you 👍😊
Will be watching this again later as we are going to be doing our first water change tomorrow or Saturday. Tank has been going a week now and today is the first day we didn't add the petsathome BB. Just tested the water and have 0.25 ammonia 0 nitrite and 20ppm Nitrate. So all spooking pretty good I think! We swapped the food out as the flakes on the surface was causing them to gulp air. Got some Fluval bug bites food now that suspends in the water.
Great news Matt, and only in a week (with fish in)! Big congratulations, time to open some wine! Just keep on testing your water now that you've stopped with adding BB. Perhaps do a 10 litre change to remove a bit of that ammonia and get your nitrate back down (although 20ppm is fine) and allow those nitrite converting bacteria to build-up a bit more (they often take a bit longer though) - Nitrate levels look really good and overall you're almost fully cycled. I think your ammonia looks fine (probably, you have very low free ammonia in that reading anyway).
Please don't tell your fish I suggested this to you but (now whispering... a day or two of no feed would likely see that ammonia converted and looking around zero!) Depends on how easily you can cope with your food demanding fish :-) With tetras you might want to think about adding a VERY small bit of aquarium driftwood just to provide a small bit of tannin, up to you though as I appreciate it can add a slight bit of "tea colour" to the water after about a week (but that would go away with your weekly water change).
Great and simple way to explain the things you should do in a fish tank. I should get a 45 liter biorb soon, and i pretend to use some of your tips and advices . Thanks and best regards from Portugal.
Many thanks Concalo. So great to hear from you from Portugal! It's really great that people find these videos helpful. Thanks so much for watching, Mark
By the way, big apologies to you (I'm so English!!) my partner is from Brazil, I should have got her to reply to you in Portuguese! :-) Next time!
@@StepbyStep-biOrb i’m sorry if my english is not perfect, i was always a good english student but i need to train a little bit more. Thank you!
Your English is so perfect! From Ana: Oi tudo bem? Que legal (fixe) que voce se inscreveu no canal! Eu tenho familia em Portugal; em Oeiras e amigos em Lisboa! Adoro Portugal! Grande abraco!
@@StepbyStep-biOrb obrigado! Quando tiver o meu aquário envio fotos e vídeos para vocês darem a vossa opinião.Abraço
Hi Mark, thanks again, another great video, just about to do my water change this Sunday. Glad I watched this video.
Hi Donna. Many thanks for watching... really appreciated. Don't forget to Like :). Hopefully the video will point you in the right direction. I normally work on the basis of replacing 10 litres from a 30 litre aquarium (i.e. one third) so you can apply that sort of ratio to your own situation. Any problems - just shout! Take care and... very happy water changes! Mark
Great video!
Really appreciate the comments. Many thanks. Mark
Really helpful thank you for the info on how to water change. 🙂
Glad it was helpful! Best, M
Hi Mark, hope all is well.
So I am now the proud owner of 3 new fish (tetras). I did exactly as now trained by you on the preparation of the tank leaving it to cycle for several days to settle and slowly introducing the fish. They couldn’t wait to get into the tank and raced around I hope with excitement!
I measured the perimeters daily to keep a close eye on the levels and I started to see spikes in the nitrite levels. Everything else seemed ok. I realised that perhaps I was slightly over feeding and although I tried to make sure as little fish food hit the bottom of the tank some did.
So without further ado, I felt a water change was in order now after a few days.
The water was prepared and I added the correct amount of aquasafe gently reintroducing the new water back into the tank approx 10l change.
The temperature was also a little high so took the opportunity to bring down to approx~25c.
The fish seemed happy and are darting around feeling confident!!:)
I will check later to see how things are going re parameters. Fingers crossed they are under control now. The tank itself is very clean so did not need to perform any other cleaning activities for now.
So far so good I think and the fish have survived nearly a week. This morning as I walked in to check on them they swam around in a circle then hid in a shell!! I think they were playing! :))
Thanks again Mark for all your help so far with this it has been massively helpful!
Hi Oliver. Sounds good. Hopefully your nitrates will start to show and increase as nitrite levels drop. You need to monitor ammonia, nitrite and nitrate right through the period of cycling. Did you use ATM Colony? Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Hi Mark
Yes I will keep an eye on it for sure. Yes I do have Colony but I haven’t put any in. Do you recommend I do?
Regards
Oliver.
Apologies I was going to say having now got this far with the process. I figured the sachets that came with the biorb would be enough to get going. I can easily put some in if you recommend!
Yes, I would certainly suggest also adding ATM Colony for cycling especially with fish-in cycling (and also with Tetras which can be fairly sensitive to cycling depending on your local tap water pH etc ).
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thanks Mark, will add as suggested. 👍🏻
Just about to do my first change. Thanks for such helpful information.
Hi Maria. Welcome to the channel and a big thanks for watching. I'm really glad you find the videos of help. I hope the water change goes well - its all straightforward and easy peasy once you've done the first one. Best, Mark
Good series of videos. Just resurrected my life60 after a year in storage so good for a refresher. Good idea about thermometer, I was just using my finger before! Got a nice laser thermometer from Amazon to point at water to get it accurate. Keep up the videos, thank you.
Thanks for the encouragement Peter. Hope you decide to kick start that 60l and get it up and running again. M
Thank you for your insight.
Amazing video I appreciate this great information bless you Sir 🙌🙏 🥳🎨😎🐟..........🐟.....🌊 new sub and like for sure. TY . For sharing this. ✌
It's a pleasure and thank you for your wonderful comments and support to my new Channel. Thanks for the like and sub - much appreciated. Best wishes to you, Mark.
Another excellent video! Your water change tips are very useful and the colander idea when adding the new water is terrific. Is the Outbreak different from the Colony bottle you used in the videos when first setting up a fish tank? Can the Colony bottle that you used in the video when first setting up the aquarium tank be used for water changes until the bottle is finished or empty, or do you recommend Colony Outbreak for water changes once the tank has been established and settled instead? Thanks for all of your helpful videos.
Thanks for your kind comments, they are really appreciated. ATM Colony is mainly used to cycle a tank with fish added at the same time. It contains nitrifying bacteria (to convert ammonia and nitrite). Yes, it can be continued to be added with your aquarium, say a cap full each time (especially when establishing a new tank), as it will help to make sure the aquarium is fully cycled and to limit ammonia and nitrite. Instead, ATM Outbreak is designed to target (breakdown) fish waste and waste food - it contains different bacteria. So, the two aren't the same thing. You will have a build-up of fish and food waste over time and that tends to end up under the ceramic media. Outbreak will help to reduce this material (in its size) and so the reduced by-product is finer and more likely to get pulled, along the bottom of the aquarium, and end up being trapped in your filter sponge (mechanical filter). So, Outbreak is a useful product to get once the tank is running and does help with this particular issue associated with the way biOrbs work. Unlike nitrifying bacteria, which form a fairly permanent colony in the tank, the bacteria in Outbreak decline in number. So, Outbreak bacteria need to be added weekly (to maintain the quantity of bacteria) and I suggest, after undertaking a weekly water change.
What is the brand of battery operated siphon that works with biorb ceramic media? The link above isn't working for me, Thank you!
Hi Jacqueline. Sorry about that, but Amazon's fault, I've updated the link. However I suggest you go to the information held under my specifically video covering vacs. That provides a number of links (all working) to the correct type of vac. Note, the vacs in the links are all from the same manufacturer but are sold under different brand names. They are all the same product, but the costs can vary! Get a battery operated one, with a hose provided. See here: th-cam.com/video/wtU0Cqx9yes/w-d-xo.html. Best, Mark
Hi Mark, great video.
I have a Biorb life 60l, which I have had for a few years with just a few fish in and sad to say, I had neglected water changes and ended with old tank syndrome.
After adding a few more fish and trying to reinstate and water change schedule, I over stressed the fish and sadly lost them. I am committed to a new start with much better fish care.
can you tell me:-
How much media in a 60l tank
Do you Vac the Gravel every water change? I noticed when I did this it removed quite a lot of solid debris, or should you do this with monthly filter change.
Is the standard 50w Biorb heater big enough for 60l? my temp seems to always be on the lower end on strip reader, I'm set to 77 but it seems to hover around 74/75.
thanks in advance.
Nick
Hi Nick. Nice to hear from you.
Yes, it sounds like the changes you made where possibly too much all in one go. Fish can put up with a lot of things but big changes in their environment (even for the better) can often have negative impacts.
In terms of water changes, I would work on undertaking weekly water changes of 1/3rd of the tank water (but this dependent on the number of fish you have and also the quality of your tap water). The lesser the fish number, the less you need to do water changes, the better the quality of your tap water (i.e. low nitrate level) the less you need to change. An alternative approach is to undertake a water change when the tanks nitrates get to between 40ppm to 50ppm.
In terms of the ceramic media quantity. If using the "traditional" ceramic media, then 2 to 2.5 kilos would be what you would need (Alfagrog E25 is the same product and size as the biOrb product but is far cheaper!: ). eBay is a good place to get this from. Make sure you get E25 rather than E40 as E40 has a larger stone size (40mm).
If using biOrb's new media product (Pearl Media) you would need 3 kilos in this size tank: amzn.to/3WvXoLe
The frequency of using a battery operated vac is also dependent on the number of fish (i.e. waste production). I tend to specifically vac (i.e. using a vac with a filter bag attached) waste when I can see it along the bottom edge of the tank (under the media). As a battery vac can be used to undertake water changes, you can basically do a light vac every week and at the same time remove water during the water change (that's what I tend to do as it just helps to keep on top of waste). This is the only vac type that works in a biOrb: amzn.to/3G2AnZo. It allows you remove water and also undertake water changes. Easy peasy!
As you are starting again, I would suggest cleaning out the tank completely (to remove all waste), add new ceramic media and refill with fresh water. It would be worth adding a few handfulls of your existing ceramic media (initially) as that will help quickly seed the tank with existing beneficial bacteria. As you would be basically starting from scratch I suggest you use a bacterial support product such as Aquavitro Seed to support cycling the tank. eBay is a good place to get this product.
A 50w heater should be fine with a 60. It is a nearer match to the size of the tank than a 100w would be. I use 50w in 60L and retain a temp of 76 which is probably the sweet spot for most tropicals. The temp you have is only very slightly on the cooler side of the tropical fish range but is still a good match for most of them. Is it possible to turn it up a bit (the temp range normally shown on a heater is indicative so isn't necessarily what the heater will heat at!)?
Hope that helps. If you need anything else... just shout.
Best wishes, Mark
Thanks Mark, great advice.
I have done what you suggested and started from fresh using a little of my existing media to get it going. One thing I noticed regarding temp was changing the Airstone, I thought it was fine but a replacement has significantly increased the Bubble rate which I think is now circulating the water around the tank and distributing the heat much better. I was well under on media previously (around 1k) so now up to 2.5k and doing a full cicle before even thinking of adding any fish...Thanks for your help, I'm sure I'll be back. Nick
Perfect Nick! Yes, the airstone (depending on age) will reduce air flow, so a new one can certainly help with that. Something I didn't think to mention... Thanks! On a tank that size (60l), I think the additional media quantity will help somewhat and should get your biological filter working efficiently and spot-on for your fish. All sounds very good. Always happy to help in any way that i can. Just shout! Feel free to come back! Best, Mark
I love your videos. So helpful! Thank you! Will you please send a link or tell me the name of the water-fill vacuum/pump that you recommend for the ceramic media ? The link you have no longer goes to this item on Amazon. Thank you very much!
Hi Sarah. Thanks for watching and supporting the Channel. Thanks for the very nice comments too. Yes, Amazon links are a big burden! They always keep changing and its hard to keep up. So, basically there is only one type of vac that works with a biOrb. They are all produced by the same manufacturer but are sold under different product names (and prices!). The battery ones are far better than those with mains power cables. Here are current links to the ones I can find: amzn.to/3WxQ7K0 and amzn.to/3R3n5RK and amzn.to/3HrEwb6. These all work well with the biOrb ceramic media and the new biOrb pearl media and are also very good for undertaking water changes etc.
The best spare filter bags to trap all waste (that fit the above) are the ones which have a very fine structure (some others products let waste particles through). The ones I use are these: amzn.to/3XQjdWh.
Hopefully the Amazon links will stay live for the time being! LoL.
Hope that helps.
Best wishes, Mark
Should I do water changes even if all my readings are perfect? I’ve had the aquarium for about 6 weeks with 1 fish. My GH level is the only reading I’ve seen change. Started out at 60 ppm, now it’s at 180ppm 6 weeks later. PH is 7.5.
So what do you think I should do?
Hi Joe. The main reason to undertake water changes is to maintain suitable water quality parameters for the fish species you have (largely they are undertaken to reduce nitrate levels back down). With a very low number of fish, the water quality will typically remain at a suitable level for much longer. So, there isn't much reason to change.
I'm just wondering what is causing your GH to rise though? 180ppm is a bit high for a typical aquarium, although this depends on the fish species.
Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb I’m thinking it has something to do with the food I’m introducing into tank. Baby dried shrimp and betta pellets.
Going to do a water change later, hopefully that will lower it a bit.
Thanks Mark.
Love the channel by the way.
Extremely informative in the BiOrb aquarium!
So, whats is the three month change? Are you going to do a video on that?
Yes, will cover that. But I need to do a genuine 3 month change so I'm afraid it will take little while longer. yet Sorry! Stick with it, Mark
Hi Mark. Your videos are very helpful. Is the purpose of the 24-hr wait time so that the water can achieve room temperature or for the Water Conditioner to work its magic? Thank you!
Hi Susie. Nice to hear from you and thanks for visiting the Channel. There are numerous reasons to wait at least 24 hours. If you are running a tank at room temp then yes, it can take at least 24 hours to get the tanks temp to stabilise. It also allows a full check that everything in the tank is working as it should - such as the air pump (i.e air flow in the tank) and the heater. If things are not working properly is best to know that before fish. Water treatments, dechlorinators etc are normally instant, so it is less about waiting for those to do what they are supposed to do. Once a tank has been running for at least 24 hours you will need to test the water in the tank to make sure nothing has changed compared to your tap. A typical test is to check that the pH level has remained the same. Tap water may often include carbon dioxide, which then gases off when exposed to air. This normally takes 24-48 hours. The removal of CO2 may cause the tank's pH to rise. It is important to know if the tank's pH is not stable.
You mention Water Conditioner. Are you referring to the biOrb product and do you plan to use that to cycle the tank? If so, I would suggest that you instead look at alternative bacterial products for aquarium cycling such as API QuickStrat; Tetra safeStrat or ATM Colony (Freshwater). These will better support the addition of fish and will also provide you with the quantities of bacteria needed to support the duration of cycling.
Fish choice should match your water conditions. So, choose fish that are best suited to your tap water quality and tank conditions. Choose a small number of hardy fish initially as those will be better suited to the early stages of having a newly set-up tank. I hope that helps. Best wishes, Mark.
New to video, haven't done full water change, since I had tank, 14mths ago, shamedly, done 10 Ltre cahnge 3 weeks ago and have lost 15 fish!!! Can I empty tank and do a complete tank change, how do I clean ceramic stones in bottom? I'vw been scrubbing plastic plants in dirty water, but my castle is not getting clean. ordered Hydro vac, thermometer, tetra sage conditioner, ready, what do you suggest HELP!!!
Hi Lynda. Yes, a sudden change in water quality can easily result in fish death. Even going from very poor water to very good water can be detrimental. Far better to change the water very gradually over a number of days to slowly improve the water over time. You may have also triggered what is often called "new tank syndrome". Always apply dechlorinator to tap water (e,g, AquaSafe: amzn.to/3QW8NRR) prior to adding water to the tank and always warm your new water so that it is roughly the same as your tank's water before adding it.
In terms of cleaning plastic plants etc... Watch my video about cleaning decorations and plastic plants by soaking in a diluted bleach solution. You need to use "basic" of "thin" bleach rather than toilet type bleach (the type of product to get is this: amzn.to/3chnIal). Diluted bleach should clean most of the plastic plants and the castle without any need for scrubbing. Scrubbing is not a good way to clean biOrb products and will degrade plastics, painted items and acrylic surfaces.
If it was me, I would empty the tank and start afresh! Unless, that is, you have any surviving fish that you want to retain.
What size is your tank? 15 fish, depending on the species, seems to be a lot for many biOrb size tanks.
Whether your ceramic media is still good is very hard for me to say. It might have become heavily soiled with waste etc and a lot of the surface pores clogged with waste.. As it is fairly cheap, I would be tempted to say to completely replace the ceramic media with brand new. Get Alfagrog - it is the same as biOrb ceramic media but cheaper and tends to have more consistent "stone" size. For most sized biOrbs 1kg of media is more than enough. It is this type of product here: amzn.to/3RsxOnN
If you are starting from scratch. You will need to cycle your aquarium to ensure that it will support fish.
Happy to help further... just shout! Best wishes, Mark
Mark I had one more question.
So I just buy the BiOrb service kits.
In the service kit comes 2 packets. 1 water conditioner and 1 biological booster.
I do a 2 gallon water change in my 8 gallon aquarium once a month.
Is it necessary to keep adding the biological booster during every water change as indicated on the packets?
My aquarium seems to have a sporadic boost in algae growth since my last change. Adding the biological booster pack seems unnecessary at a monthly water change. Adding it every other water change would seem more appropriate. Possibly longer.
What is your opinion on this matter?
Thanks
Hi Joe. My opinion is: don't buy the service kits and don't add the biOrb sachets. That approach will be cost you a fortune over time!
Instead get alternative replacement sponge filters and filter medium. You should be able to get these as kits such as this: amzn.to/48HbzmH
These types of product are simply added to your existing biOrb filter tray/canister.
The only thing to add is a simple (basic) dechlorinator to deal with tap chlorine/chloramine. I use this product for all my tanks: amzn.to/41slCJQ . Add 2.5ml to each 5 litres of tap water you use for undertaking water changes.
There isn't really need to keep adding a biological booster unless you really want to. I'm not sure it provides any advantages, although it certainly won't harm to do so. I generally don't add biological booster unless there is a need - such as setting-up a new tank, or adding more fish, or following a big tank clean out.
The algae (I assume diatoms?) are probably reflecting the availability of nutrients in your tank. These are typically nitrate levels (and/or phosphate levels).
What are you tank nitrate levels just prior to doing a water change?
If nutrients are getting a bit too high it might be worth changing the frequency of your water changes to every two weeks to help reduce down nutrient levels. Water changes are best accompanied by doing a quick vac around the bottom of the tank to reduce waste.
I hope that helps. Best wishes, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thanks again Mark. Always super informative as usual.
My N02 & N03 levels are always near nil every time I check it, via the test strips. Don’t know if those are 100% accurate though.
Thanks for the links for the supplies!
Great! I would personally move away from test strips and move instead to using liquid/ reagent testing (e.g. API Freshwater Test Kit) . A zero reading for nitrite and nitrate in the tank water would not promote algae (diatom) growth... but you have indicated you have this. If you do go down the reagent test route please let me know what your nitrate readings are as I very much doubt it will be zero/nil. Best wishes, Mark
Hi Joe, wishing you a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thanks Mark! Merry Christmas
Do you ever clean the gravel with your siphon when you do water changes?
Well, that's a good question. The biOrb ceramic media is very difficult to clean using a siphon. Siphons work great with sand and small gravel media etc (electric syphons to a lesser extent), but I've not found a way or product to do it with the biOrb media. So, I tend to clean under my ceramic media on my three monthly clean (it certainly needs it by then) - which unfortunately means taking the whole lot out (and keeping it in some of the extracted tank water) and then siphoning the bottom of the tank to remove the waste. Then I put it all back in the aquarium again! I'm currently trying out ATM Outbreak which is made to target all that waste material and help break it down Hopefully I will see a difference in the waste amount when i do my three monthly. if you find anything that really works though, let me know. It would certainly need a lot a power behind it to pull the waste from underneath (which is where most waste ends up). I hoping that be reducing the size of the waste it might get drawn more to the mechanical filter so can be dealt with by filter cleaning and changes. Nice to hear from you, thanks for watching, very much appreciated. Best, Mark
Step-by-Step Thanks for your answer Mark… That makes total sense. I use a siphon and just push it down on the gravel and as I pump, all of the muck that is either on top or underneath the gravel manages to get sucked up. However, I have a standard Fishtank so it might be different. I like the idea of the outbreak… I might try that myself. Have a great day 👍
@@NorthernMigrationTravel Oh, I dream of the days I could just remove waste like that. It is the one thing I dislike about biOrbs - and that the whole biOrb system is largely designed around the use of this very rough ceramic media. This makes it very hard to clean but it can also occasionally result in the loss of smaller fish that get themselves stuck within it and struggle to get back out. Take care and enjoy that easy siphoning!
I have purchased a battery powered aquarium vac. When l put it near the biorb media it draws the waste up through the media and catches it in a filter bag. The water goes straight back in the tank.
I do this about once a week and it keeps the waste level down.
That's good news Peter. What brand is it? Thanks so much for contributing to the discussion and great to hear from you. Best, Mark
Hi Mark, hope you are well my aquarium seems to be having a little bit of trouble, I seem to have a web like fuzz over the ceramic media I am going to do a 10L water change to try and help it out any sort of advice? Thanks Sean
Hi Sean. Is it green in colour? (google: filamentous algae)? Regardless, I don't think it is a problem (for fish) and I'm not sure you need to rush into a water change. Let me know. Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Hi Mark no it’s like a whitey colour over the bottom front.
If it is a brand new aquarium, cycling or just cycled, algae can often be part of the new tank process - until the tank settles down. Let me know colour of it.
Without seeing it is sounds like either: limescale (do you have hard water) or white algae. Nothing to panic about. Google both and let me know which.
Also, let me know aquarium water temp.
Do you have a video on cleaning the filter?
Hi Carrie, the video covering sponge filter changes is this one: th-cam.com/video/qEomgEE2rxg/w-d-xo.html. Hope that helps. Best, Mark
Hey M, how much water do you replace on your monthly water change? In addition, how often do you clean your plants and the inside of the tank? I take it you clean the plants in the removed dirty water? Thanks 😊
Hey V. Nice to hear from you. Well, the frequency of water change depends on the tanks water quality (especially nitrates) which is linked to the number of fish you have and also how bad your tap water's nitrate level is. I would normally go with doing weekly water changes, at a lesser amount, rather than leave it for too long and then do a large change. Fish can tolerate poorer water better than they can deal with a sudden change of water quality (even if the change is with better quality water). This is the main the reason that we need to acclimatise new fish to the water in your tank by slowly adding tank water to the bag they come in. The smaller quantity and more frequent approach avoids a sudden change. As an indicator of when and how much, the main trigger for tends to be nitrate as this needs to be kept less than 40ppm... but far less nitrate is always far better. Generally I would look to do a 1/4 or 1/3rd of the tank's water for each change (I do 1/3rd per week in all tanks!). I wouldn't go more than a 50% water change unless there was a specific reason to do this (mainly to deal with a high peak of ammonia or nitrite during cycling).
For me, I also tend to use TDS measurements as I try to keep the water TDS in the preferred range for the fish in each tank . My fresh tap water has a high TDS to start with (very annoying!) so I'm therefore trying to maintain this low within the aquariums. Sorry that's not a specific answer to the water change question but it does depend on the various things I mention above. Anyway, I hope it helps.
On plants etc. Once you are well beyond cycling the conditions in the tank tend to stabilise so plastic (and real plants) and decorations don't tend to get as discoloured as much as compared to the early settling down stages. For light "soiling" (biofilm, green algae or diatoms (aka "brown algae) , yes, just give them a clean in the extracted aquarium water from a water change and then put them back in. For heavier algae and discolouration the best approach is the method I describe in my video about cleaning with thin bleach dilution (this avoids the need for a brush and heavy scrubbing etc... which really doesn't do biOrb decorations and plants much good in the longer term). I tend to use bleach cleaning for the things in my tank and I probably do that every 2-3 of months.
Best wishes, M.
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Perfect! Thanks so much! Really helpful. Have just started to get some brown discolouration on the plants and pebbles and a couple of spots on the BiOrb, so will look to give a little clean. Will never do more than a 50% change of water and will stick with the little changes as much as I can. Enjoy your long weekend :)
Yes, the brown (diatoms) is a classic early tank scenario. They are a good indicator of things going all okay in the tank, especially if the tank water is looking clear. They remove nutrients from the water so are not really a "bad thing" and they have no impact at all on fish etc. But, they just mess up the appearance of the tank and can coat everything if left to do their thing! Lol. You should find that they are fairly easy to remove though (just wipe off). Green algae tends to be the next lot of things to appear (but are also a good sign) but green algae tends to be a bit more stubborn to clean off. Have a great (long) weekend. M
@@StepbyStep-biOrb perfect! Really interesting, thank you :)
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Hi M, I did a 10ltr water change on my 30ltr today and used 5ltrs of the old water to clean the plants, pebbles and centre piece. They came up lovely! I also used the BiOrb cleaning pads for inside. Very impressed with those. The filter sponge hadn’t got very dirty at all so just ringed that out in some of the water and put it back. Even though I only changed 10ltr, the tank is looking wonderful again! I have a vacuum on order to deal with sucking out some of the bottom debris. So far so good so thank you 😊
My biorb air filter tends to get noisy after a couple of weeks, I change the filter but then same thing happens. any thoughts ?
Hi. Can you let me know if the sound is coming from the actual pump itself or is it coming from the aquarium? Also, is the amount of air, flowing up through the central tube in the aquarium, the same as when you first got it (it should be a fairly good constant flow of air). Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb thanks for the reply it's from the actual aquarium. I placed a new air stone which initially helped when I reposition the air stone it also seems to help for a short while.
Hey, not a problem Interesting that you said it got better for a while when you changed the air stone. Might be worth messing around with that - see if altering the position of the air stone helps. Also, could the sound be resonating from the table or unit that the aquarium is sitting on.? You could try reducing the aquarium's water by 50%, slightly lift up one side of the aquarium and put a couple of small felt pads in each corner (sorry, Im assuming it is a square shaped tank!) , then lift up the other side and put another two pads under that side. Might be worth trying that when you do a water change - at least to rule that out.
@@StepbyStep-biOrb ok I'll try that thanks !
Also, just double check the air pipe is pushed fully into the air pump - as far as it will go. Best way to do that is take pipe off the pump, add saliva to the end of the tube and then push it hard back on.
Hi Mark. I've found your videos so helpful. I am struggling though to keep my fish happy after a water change. I have 15L Biorb with 4 platys. I do a 1.5L water change weekly, test the water temp and use the same products you recommend, the water readings are all good but sometimes when I carry out this weekly change, after a few hours the fish hide for atleast 24hours. So they are clearly not happy with the environment. I really don't know what I'm doing wrong? I have biorb plants and few accessories that do get a bit green after a week so I clean these at the same time... could this be the problem? I lost some minows after a 3monthly clean but I'm sure it was because I took too much good bacteria out whilst changing a large volume of water and hoovering the ceramic membrane so very worried about making more mistakes. Grateful for any advice. Emma
Hi Emma. First, may thanks for visiting the Channel and for the supportive comments. Much appreciated. A question: what do you use to undertake water changes... is it a Vac or is it a syphon? Let me know, as my answer will vary according to how you undertake the water changes.
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Hi Mark, thank you for your reply. I use a Syphon. I only use the vacuum to collect debris from the ceramic membrane monthly. Emma
Thanks Emma. I think a syphon might be a bit too much in a 15l. I would standardise the approach you use. Do everything with your vac (cleaning and water changes) - the fish can then get used to the regular use of a vac. It can take fish a while to get used to most things...so standardising the approach you use will help them to understand they are not in danger. Once fish get used to something they can go the complete opposite and be a bit too enquiring and get totally in the way! Lol. If you are using a vac to thoroughly clean under the media (weekly, and using a filter bag attachment for that) then this should help eliminate the need for you to do a deep clean that involves removing the ceramic media etc. When you did the deep clean (3 month) did that release lots of waste into the water? If so, this could explain the loss of fish, (although minnows are normally considered very hardy) as the process may have released too much pollutant into the water column. Removing tank water will not generally reduce beneficial bacteria as they form on surfaces, rather than being present in the water column, and are not removed through water changes. If you have a high waste build up this is indicative of having too many fish and/or giving too much food at each feed (this resulting in too much fish and waste build up). This also indicated by the "greening" of accessories/ plants. Algae growth should generally not happen over the span of a week. I think your 10% water changes per week are not enough for your tank as your fish numbers exceed what can be supported in a 15L. I would remove and replace 1/3rd of the tank water weekly (so, 5L per week) and see how that helps with improving the water quality. Are you monitoring the nitrate levels in the tank? Nitrates should be limited to being up to 40ppm by the time you do a water change. Let me know if you are getting much higher levels. A 1/3rd water change would remove much of the nutrients that the algae are currently thriving on (mainly nitrates). However, it will take a number of weeks for the larger water changes to show benefits within the tank water, but it will get better. Sorry if that seems to be a long list of things you need to consider but I do hope it helps. Let me know if you need anything further as I'm very keen to help get your tank back on an even keel. Best wishes, Mark
Thank you so much Mark. I will certainly try the larger water changes and maybe I am over feeding them... they do poo lots.. so will reduce that too! I suppose I'm nervous of the larger water change as I lost the minows. The water did become murky during the 3month change. I took the filter out and rinsed that in the original water as per the aquarium instructions... could that have been a contributing factor.
I've tried to follow the advice given from where I purchased the fish but clearly not working and don't want to trial and error with life. The nitrite levels appear to be in range, I am using a basic dip test strip, maybe I need a more accurate reader.
I will do what you suggest and keep you updated with any progress. Thank you again so much for your time! Emma x
Not a problem. The channel is all about helping people and their fish - end of ! The higher water change will be fine, if you are worried about this, then try 2.5L water change the next time you do one and then 5L the week after that. Sometimes it is best to do things gradually and not all at once! I think your target should be 5L water change every week. Test strips are generally fine, and if that is what your prefer and are used to... then certainly go with those. They provide indicative information but that is not a problem. Liquid tests are more accurate (API Test kit) but are far more involved (take far longer to do them) although are are a lower cost approach in the longer term (following the high cost initial outlay!). I think the only thing you may really need to keep an eye on is nitrate. If you are getting high nitrate levels in the tank (when compared to the nitrate in your tap water) let me know as I have a solution you could use to get the nitrates down and this would also help reduce algae. If aquarium nitrates remain in the "upto 40 ppm" throughout the week then I think what you are doing is fine. Take care and best wishes, Mark x
Silly question- with the monthly water change, can you change the filter/ carbon while the fish are in the tank? Fyi- I'm a complete novice here but watching ALL your videos (in order lol) & taking notes! Thank you for making the time (especially with a young child) to make these helpful videos... we're getting my daughter an aquarium for her 6th birthday in April, so Mommy is doing research/ learning!
Ignore this since I just got to the "change filter" video!!! I'm going to now hold all my questions till I get through all your videos! Thank you again for the informative videos!
Lol. That's not a problem. :). Basically you should do nearly everything with the fish left inside the tank. There are hardy instances where you might need to take them out (e.g disease etc). Trying to catch fish is very difficult and then removing them all causes them a lot of stress.... better to leave them feeling secure in their home. Standard/regular maintenance such as water changes, filter/carbon changes, vacumming up waste, and general cleaning of the inside of the glass, plants and decor should all be done with fish in. Great that you are getting your daughter an aquarium. My six year old is wildlife mad and loves the tanks and has "his own" (although I always get the short straw on looking after it). The other one (five year old) is far less interested.
Hi Mark, will you be doing a video on your 3 monthly water change soon?
Hi Debbie, Yes that is exactly what my next video is about and should be out very early next week. The three monthly is more about what you need to do with the ceramic media... other than that, water changes, filter changes etc should be more frequent. Best wishes and nice to hear from you. Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thank you Mark, your videos are very good and very helpful, I have 2 30L biorbs.
Thanks Debbie. Very glad to hear you find them helpful/good. Thanks for your support. I only intended originally to do just a few videos but... :) Lol. M
Hi again Debbie. Sorry, it looks like I'm going to struggle to get the new video out as I originally planned - hopefully by the end of this coming weekend now. The "three month" water change is focused on removing the aquarium's ceramic media (to clean it in aquarium water) and also removing the built-up waste that has been trapped under the media (this best done with a vac with filter bag attached). If you would rather do the clean before my next video goes live, ket me know as I would be happy to describe the steps needed using this comment thread. Best wishes, mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Hi Mark, That’s a shame, thank you for letting me know. How much water do you take out? Do you take out a bit more than normal? Do you leave the fish in or put them in a temporary tank?
Hi Mark, you may be sorry that I found your videos, I'm likely to have lots of questions lol. An elderly relative has a 105lt sphere, has been hospitalised recently, returned home to one remaining fish. It seems good neighbour intentions fell short with sporadic feeding and to remedy a lot of dirt at the bottom the majority of the media was removed, it is sitting at the side of the tank in a bucket (not in water). As a novice I have no idea how to help get her tank back on track. Whatever advice you can offer will be appreciated? So far I have done a few very minor water changes adding Aquasafe as I thought doing one big change maybe too much for the fish to cope with?... Thanks.
Hi Mina. Lol, I wasn't expecting that one! :) Yes, of course I can advise how to do that. A couple of questions - is the tank heated? What is the current number of fish, type size? Sorry, this might add to your TH-cam watch time, but if you go to the Step-by-Step Channel page and click on the Playlists tab I have created a library of the key videos designed to take people through how to start and maintain a biOrb. My suggestion is probably to start all over again with the aquarium, i.e. treat it as though it is a brand new aquarium. In terms of the ceramic media in the bucket you mention - is that reasonably clean? Let me know re the above and I can then suggest what you should do. Best, Mark
Also, do you have the means to check the water quality (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH) as it currently is? Water temp, if heated, would help too.
@@StepbyStep-biOrb I'm full of surprises lol :)... In answer to your questions, current temp is 27.3 celcius. There is 1 x white widow fish who remarkably seems to be in good health. Some artificial plants, some rocks (poss limestone) and the centre decor are still in the tank, whilst most media and a couple of rocks (again limestone) have been removed. I do think it could be rinsed and returned to the tank. My first API master kit arrived this morning, I will check water perameters now by following your video and confirm shortly. Many thanks Mina
I have now completed a water check, which shows ammonia = 0...Nitrate = 5-10....Nitrite = 0....pH high range = 8....i have also reduced the heater thermometer slightly to bring the current temp down, I will keep monitoring this...thanks Mina
That's perfect Nina. That makes things fairly easy. Temp is great and only one fish to deal with at this moment. Do you plan to re-stock the tank with more fish? I suggest you leave the rocks etc in the tank for the time being as that is where the beneficial bacteria are likely to be. With the ceramic media in the bucket, I suggest a really good clean with tap water, feel free to use very hot water from a kettle, to give it a good clean by swirling it around. Then rinse it out with more tap water, and then once more. Once cleaned put it back in a clean bucket for now (i.e. don't put into the tank). You will eventually , before adding to the tank, need to soak the ceramic media in dechlorinated water (i.e. by using a double dose of Aquasafe - so 5ml per 5 litre of water) for about a day just to remove all traces of chlorine. That should give you nice clean media. Let me know if you intend to add more fish as you would probably need to get ATM Colony to provide additional bacteria. Leave all rocks and any remainder of media in the tank as we can use that to help seed the tank as this will already contain the beneficial bacteria. Next question, do you have a syphon to extract tank water?