because it requires a lot of understanding and proper handling as he said its very toxic and can harm your skin and lungs. that's why I'm so curious on why he's not using a charcoal or a black graphite instead.
@Jono Dry, I used graphite aquarrel pencils (Faber Castell) to get dark tones in tiny areas. I either wetted the pencil tip and carefully went over theses areas or i darkened the area using the pencil then carefully went over it with damp paint brush... The interesting fact is that these areas were non-reflective at all (completely dark) give it a try & hope it works 😊
Thanks for the tip man. I’ve been looking for a method to fill in large dark areas in my drawings. It’s very tedious and the results not so good. That “shiny black” graphite effect is especially annoying and really ruins the work. I’ll try your suggestion 🙏🏼👍🏼
Two years later and there are pencils on the market that work well for this too. Faber Castell make the Pitt Graphite Matt range in grades down to 14B, though 7B or 8B seem to be the least shiny and the darkest. Staedtler make the Mars Lumograph Black range (not the Mars Lumograph range, the word "Black" has to be in there) and those are just as amazing. The Staedtler range go down to 12B but once again the 7B or 8B seem to actually be the darkest and most matt in the range. It is certainly worth trying them all out to see what suits you.
It is severely hard to find artist like Jono these days in youtube. I still remember the time when artist are really outstanding and informative not just a band of rich asses who likes to doodle then buys subscribers. Cheers to you man! keep posting these good stuff.
BWAHAHAHAHAHAHA Well, as someone who went through art school 2002-06, I wonder how long ago you're pining for, because I don't remember any profs at U Waterloo being anything greater than what you lament about artists 'these days'. They've been fakers since the birth of 'modern art' (code for "if I do something totally silly, but no one else did it before - because it's totally silly - then I can sell it for a lot of money if I know the right people who can help me hype myself" )
You can get a proper fire-safe, hazardous materials, disposables can with a lid that’s lifted with your foot. They come in different sizes and specifications, but some are OSHA approved and are usually Bright red. Better to be safe! I also spritz my towels with water at the end of every day to be triple sure. I have a very dear friend who lost her studio and house that way - it’s a real problem and should be taken seriously.
A lot of pastel artists use isopropyl alcohol, for underpaintings, and backgrounds which works great, because it drys really fast, also you could consider using a liner brush for the finer details, and edges.
Your content has inspired me to return from my 5 year art hiatus. I always assumed I was "just a pencil artist"; or as others like to say, a "good drawer". But your appreciation for the medium has shown me that there is no shame in working with graphite. Thank you!
@@JonoDryis there a way I can draw so it’s easier to erase with my tombo mono, it’s really hard for me to get a bright line and it seems pretty easy watching your videos
This video answered so many of my questions, thank you! I can't be around solvents for health reasons, so the idea of Linseed Oil was amazing. I would love to know in the future if you find it to fade at all or if the fixatives you use work with it as well. Best wishes to you!
His videos are so soothing. Made the mistake of watching Jono's video before an exam. Yep.. I slept and missed my exam. Better get back to watching the rest of the video😂
The linseed oil technique is intriguing, and I'm definitely going to try it. I just wonder, that over time, will the oil seep throughout the rest of the drawing, spoiling the areas that are lighter, with less graphite saturation? I wonder if it will "yellow" the piece, throughout? ❤ your work!!
Both worries are unlikely. As Jono says, linseed dries (because it oxidates), so no risk of seeping, because it becomes a solid. As used here, mixed with graphite, any slight yellowing will stay invisible because of the dark grahite particles.
I really wanted to try this technique too... i gave it a try but my drawing had the exact problems that you are concerned about. At first it looked just absolutely wonderfull, but after a month or so the oil started to seep through and affect the parts that are not completely black. I have not yet found a solution for this myself as there can be various causes for this to happen. Maybe the oil i used was too liquid or maybe i used too much of it... i don't know. But absolutely try it before you use it. And give your tests some time, because for me this all started to show after a month or so. Ps. Share your experience if you find something useful. ;)
@@kas88an have you tried water soluble graphite? Faber-Castell has it in different hardness and there's also water soluble graphite sticks, you can get really deep blacks and you can kind of erase a little bit
I also wondered that, Laurie. Edze, have you used linseed oil on paper before? The yellowing is a real effect, and like Jono said - he did various TESTS for this video, but they are still not dry. So he can't make any comment about the long term effects on one's drawing. Yellowing takes place over years and all paper slowly yellows, but paper that was painted on with oils changes dramatically in only months. (I can attest to this personally from experience) Kaspars, thanks for sharing your experience. Jono did say to be careful not to over-load your dabber, but I suspect that any amount of oil that is enough to transfer the medium will eventually result in at least some oil seepage like you experienced.
Unfortunately the acidity of a drying oil will damage the paper. A good quality WC-paper will perhaps sustain longer than other cheaper papers because of how it’s sized inside and on the surface. But the acidity of the oil is still far too aggressive for paper. And the oil as it continues to polymerize over the years will also become more and more brittle. Further, the linseed oil-or all drying oils for that matter-will yellow when it polymerizes. I would not recommend using oils with paper that hasn’t been prepared for oil paints if you want your artworks to last and look good longer than a few decades. Note that some solvents will also irreversible harm the cellulose. Although since they evaporate the “harming process” will end after that. And yes… oil will penetrate the fibers. The seizing may prevent some to penetrate just like it prevents water from penetrating. But the paper will still get “moist” by the oil. Oils in general penetrate fibrous materials easier than water. That doesn’t mean it will necessarily-as a binder and not a solvent-dissolve any graphite pencil marks on the surface. And because of that it may go undetected.
I started experimenting with Gamasol as a solvent for my graphite after you mentioned solvent graphite and since I use it for color pencil blending already. The dark value using it is amazing. I really look forward to more of your explains videos.
Thank you for mentioning how Linseed oil may cause a fire if left alone on rags! I paint with oils and had no idea! When you said that in the video, I looked down at my waste basket and said...”Holy smokes!” As I realized there were five or so saturated rags with oil. A million thanks for all your amazing videos and art! I love watching you work and create.
Amazing information!! Also, you can treat the linseed oil soaked rags just like you would with oil paint rags, a firesafe garbage can works great until you have enough to take in for safe hazardous waste disposal.
fire safe = a completely closed (no airing or draining holes) and full metal (no plastic bottom, bag or inner bucket) trash can with a complementary lid (full metal no holes), preferably hinged to the can and impossible to leave open, f.e. with a foot pedal. you can find them as standard bins for metal workshops where oil drenched cloth, paper and even clothes are part of the trade and the occupational hazards that come with the industry.
As someone who does oil painting would recommend trying Poppy seed oil. Dries faster than Linseed oil. Also Linseed oil can yellow or tarnish over time.
Hey Jono, just watched and thought that you're pretty much creating a super loose graphite oil paint. There's comments about liquin which would help with drying. Main caution would be the archival-ness of your works, as the linseed oil can damage non-treated paper. Arches makes a oil painting paper that has been sized so to avoid seepage and damage, maybe worth looking into?
I've found that using charcoals for dark tones is really effective with graphite drawings. I've always liked the way those mediums interplay as well. Also, I've heard carbon pencils can give really dark values without that sheen. I haven't experiemented with those yet myself. What I have been doing lately is gradually building up tones by layering light and then darker pencils on top of each other. It doesn't give me pitch dark tones, granted, but I do get a nice range of values.
I used charcoal for a little while but I found that it would result in the shine of the graphite being far more noticeable against my darkest shadows. I ended up moving back to purely graphite just to maintain uniformity throughout a piece.
Treat yourself to pickles and afterwards use the jar for your oil saturated rugs and stuff. With the lid on (= lack of oxygen) you prevent fire hazards in your studio. Love your work!
When the pandemic hit I started drawing again. I found your videos and and haven't stopped drawing. Thank you for the inspiration. I have since started my own channel, which takes up a lot of time , but I'll get back to my graphite. I feel the need to start a really large piece .
You usually try and get the blend as smooth as possible BEFORE blending, otherwise you rush the process and you get that grainy look that pencil provides
By using linseed oil, you're essentially creating graphite paint (since oil paint is often made from linseed and any of a number of ground pigments). Therefore, you may want to look into the specifics of how to cure oil paint and protect it longterm so you have a springboard to jump from re: expectations and how to alter/customize your technique. Thank you for sharing this video! It was very interesting to watch your process and hear some of your findings.
Jono: thank you for your videos; your work is remarkable. In order to make the linseed oil dry faster, I normally use Liquin or any alkyd type varnish. I've been using it in my oil paintings for many years, and never seen the yellowing that some people predict. You may want to test it with your graphite + linseed oil to see what the result on paper. Cheers
My dad owned a hardware store for many decades and was a professional (house) painter before that. I was always warned strongly about solvent rag safety. Put them in a water filled bucket or get a fire-proof garbage bin. I personally know someone who burned down their house after staining their kitchen cabinets. The rags were left in a dry bucket and poof
In my experience with linseed oil the biggest things I've always heard (I've done these and not had a problem) is keep the old rags out of sunlight and just lay them out flat on the shop floot(concrete) you don't want to wad them up the fold trap the heat or expose them to direct sunlight because that somehow speeds up the reaction making more heat. If you don't have a concrete floor at hand I'd imagine a square foot tile from a home Improvement store would be fine or anything stone or metal that size mostly you just want a place you can lay the rags out so the heat dissipates quickly and on a material that won't burn.
Hi, when you work with oil how do you protect the paper from the oil? With time paper will become brittle unless you use specially made paper for oil use. Thank you
What type of solvent do you mix with your 9B graphite? Acetone? Also, do you have a mixed ratio you try to follow, or do you just try and obtain a certain consistency?
You’ve been a great help in learning more about art techniques. By the way, I'm a salesperson in an art store, and most of the tips I give to my customers that do hyper-realism Or use graphite, I got from your channel and they Helped them and myself a lot.
Hey Sir, I love your work, keep it up! I have a question: in your opinion, what's the absolute hardest thing to draw? Is it beyond realism or surrealism, maybe more like suprematism and a fully intelectualized piece? Perfection seems really hard to visualize...
Hi Jono, thank you for your videos. Mixing linseed oil with charcoal dust is an interesting idea. Linseed oil + powdered pigment is the definition of oil paint (In this case the pigment is charcoal). Therefore, if extended drying time is an issue, there are drying agents available to add the oil/pigment mix to speed up the drying time. In addition, there are other oils such as walnut oil, poppy seed oil and safflower oil which are sometime used to make oil paint. (Linseed is still considered the best binding oil to use but it brings a yellow tinge to the pigment so alternative oils have been used to reduce this element.)
tips from a woodworker: if you keep a jar of water or something around for discarding your linseed oil rags in, you don’t have to worry about starting fires
With linseed oil, I always wash out clothes well with laundry detergent and dry them outside away from my house and for any paper towels / tissue or paper I usually soak it in a strong solution of dish washing liquid and water first. It should break down the oil enough for it to no longer be flammable. I have a metal waste paper basket that I keep for the trash and I always put it outside. You should be fine. Its mostly cloth you have to be careful but better safe than sorry - my oil paintings never caught on fire and I thin the paint with linseed oil so not exactly sure when it's flammable.
Hey Jono, which Pigment Do you think is the darkest? I paint a lot with Black makeup, but this Kind of smooth Creme isnt available. I didnt understand which Do you use.
Great! I watched your other video and didn't know that you had other videos in which you explained about the material you use and your technique. Thanks so much.
Jono love love your work you're amazing person. I've been following you you motivate me. I have picked up drawing again because of you. I can't find 9B graphite stick do you have any suggestions?
Love fabriano but those big rolls are the work of Satan. I don't have much in yet way of workspace so trying to cut myself a sheet- it tears, it rips, it creases its never straight, plus its so bloody expensive. Ovet the years I've found a good heavyweight cartridge performs just as well. Quite a few interesting tips in that video though. Thanks.
Sir you are a very masterclass skilled artist but I am so confused on why you are not using a charcoal or a black graphite pencil in achieving a very dark tone, I hope you will have a comparison or an explanation on why you choose on graphite over charcoal in terms on experimenting or achieving a very dark tone
I’m not sure if people have commented about this yet, but won’t mineral spirits and/or linseed oil eventually dissolve the paper over time? Oil painters need to use multiple layers of pva sizing and gesso to protect their canvas/wood/paper surfaces from deteriorating over time. I’m no conservator or anything, but it might be worth checking around before trying this out🤷♂️
Jono I did a test after seeing this video with M Graham walnut oil. Takes very little. I was amazed. It dries fairly fast as well. Love your work. Thank you for videos.
Those pencils are in the right hands..
Thanks sir please help as more Thanks
They're so lucky..😊✏️
* Cries in left handed artist*
Good thing he isn't left handed
@@spuddart3540 😭😭😭this comment is so underrated LMAOOO
Jono Dry's wet techniques is very underrated
VERY underrated
because it requires a lot of understanding and proper handling as he said its very toxic and can harm your skin and lungs. that's why I'm so curious on why he's not using a charcoal or a black graphite instead.
@Jono Dry, I used graphite aquarrel pencils (Faber Castell) to get dark tones in tiny areas. I either wetted the pencil tip and carefully went over theses areas or i darkened the area using the pencil then carefully went over it with damp paint brush... The interesting fact is that these areas were non-reflective at all (completely dark) give it a try & hope it works 😊
I tried it.. awesome
Thanks for the tip man. I’ve been looking for a method to fill in large dark areas in my drawings. It’s very tedious and the results not so good.
That “shiny black” graphite effect is especially annoying and really ruins the work. I’ll try your suggestion 🙏🏼👍🏼
@@j_shelby_damnwird glad to help 🙏
wow
Two years later and there are pencils on the market that work well for this too. Faber Castell make the Pitt Graphite Matt range in grades down to 14B, though 7B or 8B seem to be the least shiny and the darkest. Staedtler make the Mars Lumograph Black range (not the Mars Lumograph range, the word "Black" has to be in there) and those are just as amazing. The Staedtler range go down to 12B but once again the 7B or 8B seem to actually be the darkest and most matt in the range. It is certainly worth trying them all out to see what suits you.
man i love your art...i wanna meet you someday
It is severely hard to find artist like Jono these days in youtube. I still remember the time when artist are really outstanding and informative not just a band of rich asses who likes to doodle then buys subscribers. Cheers to you man! keep posting these good stuff.
Sounds like zhc🤣🤣
@@zqxy694 ur right😂😂😂😂
BWAHAHAHAHAHAHA Well, as someone who went through art school 2002-06, I wonder how long ago you're pining for, because I don't remember any profs at U Waterloo being anything greater than what you lament about artists 'these days'. They've been fakers since the birth of 'modern art' (code for "if I do something totally silly, but no one else did it before - because it's totally silly - then I can sell it for a lot of money if I know the right people who can help me hype myself" )
When Jono Dry explain ,, I'm always 100% understood 😁👍....❤️
That's really lovely feedback -- thank you!
@@JonoDry pls, can i use charcoal with solvent ??
You can get a proper fire-safe, hazardous materials, disposables can with a lid that’s lifted with your foot. They come in different sizes and specifications, but some are OSHA approved and are usually Bright red. Better to be safe! I also spritz my towels with water at the end of every day to be triple sure. I have a very dear friend who lost her studio and house that way - it’s a real problem and should be taken seriously.
A lot of pastel artists use isopropyl alcohol, for underpaintings, and backgrounds which works great, because it drys really fast, also you could consider using a liner brush for the finer details, and edges.
I SEE that new piece in the background! (at 7:25 and 7:44) It looks stunning! Please tell me you have a timelapse coming for that one!!
I'm so glad you like it😊 Yes it's on its way!
Your content has inspired me to return from my 5 year art hiatus. I always assumed I was "just a pencil artist"; or as others like to say, a "good drawer". But your appreciation for the medium has shown me that there is no shame in working with graphite. Thank you!
You really need more subs. I personally think that your tutorial videos are the most underrated out of almost any art channel.
I appreciate that! Thanks so much😊
@@JonoDry what is that solvent you use to get darker tones where can I get it
@@vamsikrishna628 he uses linseed oil. In Hindi it’s called til ka tel I guess. That white and black stuff.
@@JonoDryis there a way I can draw so it’s easier to erase with my tombo mono, it’s really hard for me to get a bright line and it seems pretty easy watching your videos
This video answered so many of my questions, thank you! I can't be around solvents for health reasons, so the idea of Linseed Oil was amazing. I would love to know in the future if you find it to fade at all or if the fixatives you use work with it as well. Best wishes to you!
His videos are so soothing. Made the mistake of watching Jono's video before an exam. Yep.. I slept and missed my exam. Better get back to watching the rest of the video😂
Oh my gosh that's terrible I'm so sorry🙈
@@JonoDry sir which solution do you use with graphite powder plz give me proper name of that solution
@@happyart7839 He was using Gamblin Gamsol as a solvent and Gamblin Linseed Oil for the oil. Both can be found and pretty much any art store
The linseed oil technique is intriguing, and I'm definitely going to try it. I just wonder, that over time, will the oil seep throughout the rest of the drawing, spoiling the areas that are lighter, with less graphite saturation? I wonder if it will "yellow" the piece, throughout? ❤ your work!!
Both worries are unlikely. As Jono says, linseed dries (because it oxidates), so no risk of seeping, because it becomes a solid. As used here, mixed with graphite, any slight yellowing will stay invisible because of the dark grahite particles.
I really wanted to try this technique too... i gave it a try but my drawing had the exact problems that you are concerned about. At first it looked just absolutely wonderfull, but after a month or so the oil started to seep through and affect the parts that are not completely black. I have not yet found a solution for this myself as there can be various causes for this to happen. Maybe the oil i used was too liquid or maybe i used too much of it... i don't know. But absolutely try it before you use it. And give your tests some time, because for me this all started to show after a month or so.
Ps. Share your experience if you find something useful. ;)
@@kas88an have you tried water soluble graphite? Faber-Castell has it in different hardness and there's also water soluble graphite sticks, you can get really deep blacks and you can kind of erase a little bit
I also wondered that, Laurie.
Edze, have you used linseed oil on paper before? The yellowing is a real effect, and like Jono said - he did various TESTS for this video, but they are still not dry. So he can't make any comment about the long term effects on one's drawing. Yellowing takes place over years and all paper slowly yellows, but paper that was painted on with oils changes dramatically in only months. (I can attest to this personally from experience)
Kaspars, thanks for sharing your experience. Jono did say to be careful not to over-load your dabber, but I suspect that any amount of oil that is enough to transfer the medium will eventually result in at least some oil seepage like you experienced.
Unfortunately the acidity of a drying oil will damage the paper. A good quality WC-paper will perhaps sustain longer than other cheaper papers because of how it’s sized inside and on the surface. But the acidity of the oil is still far too aggressive for paper. And the oil as it continues to polymerize over the years will also become more and more brittle. Further, the linseed oil-or all drying oils for that matter-will yellow when it polymerizes.
I would not recommend using oils with paper that hasn’t been prepared for oil paints if you want your artworks to last and look good longer than a few decades.
Note that some solvents will also irreversible harm the cellulose. Although since they evaporate the “harming process” will end after that.
And yes… oil will penetrate the fibers. The seizing may prevent some to penetrate just like it prevents water from penetrating. But the paper will still get “moist” by the oil. Oils in general penetrate fibrous materials easier than water. That doesn’t mean it will necessarily-as a binder and not a solvent-dissolve any graphite pencil marks on the surface. And because of that it may go undetected.
its amazing your job! confrats
the combination hyperrealism and surrealism make a very great effect. your work is brilliant. love it. 🙋♀️
your artistic sense is absolutely genius. thanks for these tips!
youtube; better than college
I started experimenting with Gamasol as a solvent for my graphite after you mentioned solvent graphite and since I use it for color pencil blending already. The dark value using it is amazing. I really look forward to more of your explains videos.
This is fantastic!! Really enjoy watching... Thumbs up! 👍👍👍
Thank you for mentioning how Linseed oil may cause a fire if left alone on rags! I paint with oils and had no idea! When you said that in the video, I looked down at my waste basket and said...”Holy smokes!” As I realized there were five or so saturated rags with oil. A million thanks for all your amazing videos and art! I love watching you work and create.
Yes. You have to store it in a fireproof box
Thank you for sharing your toxic experiences with some harmful drawing materials and practices. 😱🥵
Amazing information!! Also, you can treat the linseed oil soaked rags just like you would with oil paint rags, a firesafe garbage can works great until you have enough to take in for safe hazardous waste disposal.
fire safe = a completely closed (no airing or draining holes) and full metal (no plastic bottom, bag or inner bucket) trash can with a complementary lid (full metal no holes), preferably hinged to the can and impossible to leave open, f.e. with a foot pedal. you can find them as standard bins for metal workshops where oil drenched cloth, paper and even clothes are part of the trade and the occupational hazards that come with the industry.
As someone who does oil painting would recommend trying Poppy seed oil. Dries faster than Linseed oil. Also Linseed oil can yellow or tarnish over time.
Arches is usually pronounced "ARSH" in the USA and always in France.
Jono Thanks for your valuable advice!
Hey Jono, just watched and thought that you're pretty much creating a super loose graphite oil paint. There's comments about liquin which would help with drying. Main caution would be the archival-ness of your works, as the linseed oil can damage non-treated paper. Arches makes a oil painting paper that has been sized so to avoid seepage and damage, maybe worth looking into?
I've learned so much from your videos! Thank you!
I've found that using charcoals for dark tones is really effective with graphite drawings. I've always liked the way those mediums interplay as well. Also, I've heard carbon pencils can give really dark values without that sheen. I haven't experiemented with those yet myself.
What I have been doing lately is gradually building up tones by layering light and then darker pencils on top of each other. It doesn't give me pitch dark tones, granted, but I do get a nice range of values.
I used charcoal for a little while but I found that it would result in the shine of the graphite being far more noticeable against my darkest shadows. I ended up moving back to purely graphite just to maintain uniformity throughout a piece.
Does anyone know the names of the background songs that play in Jono's videos?
Bro may u get lots lots lots lots lots lots lots lots lots lots lots lots lots lots lots of success in your life. You are very hard working guy.
Hi Jono . Wassup . How's your drawing going on😄
Hlo sir,can u plzzzz make a video showing how you make that solution and which solvent u use....please its my request..,🙏🏻🙏🏻
I use linseed oil mixed with graphite powder :)
@@JonoDry Thank You so much
Treat yourself to pickles and afterwards use the jar for your oil saturated rugs and stuff. With the lid on (= lack of oxygen) you prevent fire hazards in your studio.
Love your work!
You are such an amazing artist with such a soothing voice.
When the pandemic hit I started drawing again. I found your videos and and haven't stopped drawing. Thank you for the inspiration. I have since started my own channel, which takes up a lot of time , but I'll get back to my graphite. I feel the need to start a really large piece .
I had a question, do you blend after shading your pencil sketches?
You usually try and get the blend as smooth as possible BEFORE blending, otherwise you rush the process and you get that grainy look that pencil provides
How much do you spend on a roll of paper caus they are big rolls and expensive paper
By using linseed oil, you're essentially creating graphite paint (since oil paint is often made from linseed and any of a number of ground pigments). Therefore, you may want to look into the specifics of how to cure oil paint and protect it longterm so you have a springboard to jump from re: expectations and how to alter/customize your technique. Thank you for sharing this video! It was very interesting to watch your process and hear some of your findings.
Oh my Word, you are so generous and your work is brilliant. Thank you.
Jono: thank you for your videos; your work is remarkable. In order to make the linseed oil dry faster, I normally use Liquin or any alkyd type varnish. I've been using it in my oil paintings for many years, and never seen the yellowing that some people predict. You may want to test it with your graphite + linseed oil to see what the result on paper. Cheers
I love your content so much, Jono! You’ve truly helped me fall into my own, and progress as an artist. Thank you so very much for sharing with us. 🙏
My dad owned a hardware store for many decades and was a professional (house) painter before that. I was always warned strongly about solvent rag safety. Put them in a water filled bucket or get a fire-proof garbage bin.
I personally know someone who burned down their house after staining their kitchen cabinets. The rags were left in a dry bucket and poof
Watching that solvented(?) application around the two figures was the most satisfying thing of my day 👍
I love you artwork❤️
My dear artist jono dry
Thank you sir for creating videos with contents like this! You are amazing!
Brilliant tips thank you you're lovely!!!
I draw old man portraits at school
Honestly you inspired me and right now I'm the best in my class
Can you please just once draw an old man portrait 🙏
In my experience with linseed oil the biggest things I've always heard (I've done these and not had a problem) is keep the old rags out of sunlight and just lay them out flat on the shop floot(concrete) you don't want to wad them up the fold trap the heat or expose them to direct sunlight because that somehow speeds up the reaction making more heat. If you don't have a concrete floor at hand I'd imagine a square foot tile from a home Improvement store would be fine or anything stone or metal that size mostly you just want a place you can lay the rags out so the heat dissipates quickly and on a material that won't burn.
Have been binge watching your vids everyday man,
Best pencil artist in youtube ever.
I am in love with your work... I wanna learn more about your techniques ❤️
Amazing 👍
Great Video Jono thank you! one question does de linseed oil let a oily stain on he paper?
Hi, when you work with oil how do you protect the paper from the oil? With time paper will become brittle unless you use specially made paper for oil use. Thank you
You're drawing extremely realistic. You r a pro..🌟
Really helpful video , Thank you sir !!!
Thank you so much 🥺....u explained so well
That wet technique is amazing sir, I would like to know what kind of solvent is that ?
Linseed oil :)
I was just looking you up an hour ago because I thought I missed an upload and then I saw this just now.😅
Great video!
I adore your videos - thank you for them!
What are your thoughts on Faber-Castell Graphite Aquarelle Water-soluble pencils?
Very captivating he is. Inspiring and i can yell he obviously knows what he's doing. I will be trying the lynseed oil. Thank you
Magnificul your job.
Thank you for sharing your techniques.. it'll be help full for us😊
Your work never ceases to amaze me. You are an incredibly talented person!
Thank you so much! That's really kind to say😊
Anyone know what he sprays his drawings with?
I use a grumbacher fixative😊
What type of solvent do you mix with your 9B graphite? Acetone? Also, do you have a mixed ratio you try to follow, or do you just try and obtain a certain consistency?
Thank you so much. If it works with oil painting mediums, what about an acrylic flow medium?
You’ve been a great help in learning more about art techniques.
By the way, I'm a salesperson in an art store, and most of the tips I give to my customers that do hyper-realism Or use graphite, I got from your channel and they Helped them and myself a lot.
What solvents would you recommend for these wonderful dark values, other than linseed oil?
I really appreciate these art lesssons.❤️🇨🇦
Amazing 😍🙌 it's hard to get a darker value too 😐.
This is cool
You're amazing Jono Dry
Hey Sir, I love your work, keep it up!
I have a question: in your opinion, what's the absolute hardest thing to draw? Is it beyond realism or surrealism, maybe more like suprematism and a fully intelectualized piece? Perfection seems really hard to visualize...
thanks a lot it was amazing
I love your work and yes very helpful tips thank you very much be safe.
Thank you teacher! extremely informative!
How about mixing graphite with water? Would that produce any interesting results?
You are my favorite artist ❤️
Thank you so much for sharing 💙
You're amazing person and artist 💓
Can you do a video on how you get correct proportions on bigger drawings
Hi Jono, thank you for your videos. Mixing linseed oil with charcoal dust is an interesting idea. Linseed oil + powdered pigment is the definition of oil paint (In this case the pigment is charcoal). Therefore, if extended drying time is an issue, there are drying agents available to add the oil/pigment mix to speed up the drying time. In addition, there are other oils such as walnut oil, poppy seed oil and safflower oil which are sometime used to make oil paint. (Linseed is still considered the best binding oil to use but it brings a yellow tinge to the pigment so alternative oils have been used to reduce this element.)
tips from a woodworker: if you keep a jar of water or something around for discarding your linseed oil rags in, you don’t have to worry about starting fires
Thank you sir for ur guidance 🙏..this is very helpful...
With linseed oil, I always wash out clothes well with laundry detergent and dry them outside away from my house and for any paper towels / tissue or paper I usually soak it in a strong solution of dish washing liquid and water first. It should break down the oil enough for it to no longer be flammable. I have a metal waste paper basket that I keep for the trash and I always put it outside. You should be fine. Its mostly cloth you have to be careful but better safe than sorry - my oil paintings never caught on fire and I thin the paint with linseed oil so not exactly sure when it's flammable.
U r a legendary artist
Hey Jono, which Pigment Do you think is the darkest? I paint a lot with Black makeup, but this Kind of smooth Creme isnt available. I didnt understand which Do you use.
Arches is much better than Fabriano. And for very dark graphite tones, I would recommend a Staedtler Lumograph 12b.
Great love this video
Great! I watched your other video and didn't know that you had other videos in which you explained about the material you use and your technique. Thanks so much.
Super it really helps me a lot thank you sir🤗🙌🙏
That solvent background is amazing! Thanks for sharing how you do it! I wonder if the non toxic pencil blenders used with coloured pencils will work 🤔
Jono love love your work you're amazing person. I've been following you you motivate me. I have picked up drawing again because of you. I can't find 9B graphite stick do you have any suggestions?
Love fabriano but those big rolls are the work of Satan. I don't have much in yet way of workspace so trying to cut myself a sheet- it tears, it rips, it creases its never straight, plus its so bloody expensive. Ovet the years I've found a good heavyweight cartridge performs just as well.
Quite a few interesting tips in that video though. Thanks.
Sir you are a very masterclass skilled artist but I am so confused on why you are not using a charcoal or a black graphite pencil in achieving a very dark tone, I hope you will have a comparison or an explanation on why you choose on graphite over charcoal in terms on experimenting or achieving a very dark tone
I’m not sure if people have commented about this yet, but won’t mineral spirits and/or linseed oil eventually dissolve the paper over time? Oil painters need to use multiple layers of pva sizing and gesso to protect their canvas/wood/paper surfaces from deteriorating over time. I’m no conservator or anything, but it might be worth checking around before trying this out🤷♂️
Which paper you use can you say in comments
Hey! I use Arches Aquarelle 300 gsm hot pressed satin grain paper 🙂
how many hours did you spent making your hair elegantly disheveled?
was that expensive?
hi...may i know about your mechanical pencil n the lead...? what kind of leads you use to......thx
the best method I think is the graphite powder and cotton....🖤thanks for help sir...
Hi, I want to learn sketching from you. I don’t know sketch. If you can help me out. Please. 🙏
I loved your dark background lesson. I am in Canada and have not been able to find 9B graphite block. Can you suggest a supplier?
I love your art ...
Jono I did a test after seeing this video with M Graham walnut oil. Takes very little. I was amazed. It dries fairly fast as well. Love your work. Thank you for videos.
That would be my preference as well. Little to no odor. 👍🏼