I'm new to woodworking & just wanted to ask what is the purpose of cutting the spacer in half & gluing it back together? I haven't encountered this technique before.
@ Ashley Davis... Please don’t ever shy away from asking any & all questions that you may have just because various individuals on TH-cam don’t take the time to fairly answer every question to your satisfaction. After all, that’s exactly what you deserve!!! God Bless You & Yours!!!!!!
The wood that is taken away by the sawcut makes the dado (cut out part) the exact width of the piece to be inserted. You want the opposite side of the dado blade to come where the cutout ends so the width of the blade needs to be taken off of the spacer. The easiest way to do it accurately is by cutting it out of the middle of the piece.
@@anyfoolknowthat You got that he had a stop block for cutting one side of the dado, and added the insert (part of the crosspiece wood) between the stop block & workpiece to cut the other side? Done like that, the width of the dado would be: piece of wood + width of blade. (you can draw that yourself) So to get a snug fit you need to reduce the insert by the width of the blade, ie by cutting it in half & glueing the two parts together. If you still haven't got it, best you avoid DIY :-).
Hey there Brian I'm frustrated with my current setup - or lack, thereof - and looking for some guidance on which dado set to purchase. I, too, have done the router thing, but I agree that it feels a bit unwieldy on something like a 2 x 4, which is what I'm working with currently on a kids desk. I've seen some that were relatively inexpensive in comparison to others, which is always an attractive characteristic, but I just plain ol' don't know the difference between them beyond the obvious like a stacked, multi-blade set and an adjustable "wobble" blade. Any advice?
Around the 3 minute mark, you seem to be making a through cut in a block of wood with your dado stack. If that is what you are indeed saying, that is extremely dangerous. Dadoes blades are not intended for through cuts, and do not allow the user to use safety equipment like a riving knife to help prevent kickbacks.
Two inches by four inches. Many decades ago wood was cut that size by sawmills. To make smoother lumber it was decided to plane these down. Convention eventually established that the planed size be set at 1.5 inches by 3.5 inches. So a "two by four" is actually a piece that is 1.5 inches thick and 3.5 inches wide.
![ค้างคืนโรงเก็บกระสวยอวกาศร้างกลางทะเลทราย [Around The World Ep. 3]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/E5bWZQhABJE/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm new to woodworking & just wanted to ask what is the purpose of cutting the spacer in half & gluing it back together? I haven't encountered this technique before.
@ Ashley Davis... Please don’t ever shy away from asking any & all questions that you may have just because various individuals on TH-cam don’t take the time to fairly answer every question to your satisfaction. After all, that’s exactly what you deserve!!!
God Bless You & Yours!!!!!!
The wood that is taken away by the sawcut makes the dado (cut out part) the exact width of the piece to be inserted. You want the opposite side of the dado blade to come where the cutout ends so the width of the blade needs to be taken off of the spacer. The easiest way to do it accurately is by cutting it out of the middle of the piece.
@@keybase8653 Still not getting it. This might need a diagram.
@@anyfoolknowthat You got that he had a stop block for cutting one side of the dado, and added the insert (part of the crosspiece wood) between the stop block & workpiece to cut the other side?
Done like that, the width of the dado would be: piece of wood + width of blade.
(you can draw that yourself)
So to get a snug fit you need to reduce the insert by the width of the blade, ie by cutting it in half & glueing the two parts together.
If you still haven't got it, best you avoid DIY :-).
Hey there Brian I'm frustrated with my current setup - or lack, thereof - and looking for some guidance on which dado set to purchase. I, too, have done the router thing, but I agree that it feels a bit unwieldy on something like a 2 x 4, which is what I'm working with currently on a kids desk. I've seen some that were relatively inexpensive in comparison to others, which is always an attractive characteristic, but I just plain ol' don't know the difference between them beyond the obvious like a stacked, multi-blade set and an adjustable "wobble" blade. Any advice?
Helpful video thanks!
Make sure you leave a little extra room for glue.
No room for glue
Around the 3 minute mark, you seem to be making a through cut in a block of wood with your dado stack. If that is what you are indeed saying, that is extremely dangerous. Dadoes blades are not intended for through cuts, and do not allow the user to use safety equipment like a riving knife to help prevent kickbacks.
You sound strikingly similar to Wendell from Level1Tech.
i guess Im kinda randomly asking but does anyone know a good place to watch new tv shows online ?
@Maxton Kyrie try flixzone. Just search on google for it :)
@Javier Issac yea, I've been watching on FlixZone for since april myself =)
@Javier Issac Thanks, signed up and it seems to work =) I appreciate it!
@Maxton Kyrie You are welcome xD
What is two by four?
Two inches by four inches. Many decades ago wood was cut that size by sawmills. To make smoother lumber it was decided to plane these down. Convention eventually established that the planed size be set at 1.5 inches by 3.5 inches. So a "two by four" is actually a piece that is 1.5 inches thick and 3.5 inches wide.
In UK we don't have any two by four, but we do have four by two which now comes in as 95 x45 mm approx.
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