Jon Girard great question and it does! I love trackball games and have about 30 including Golden Tee series and Centipede on the Pi, and Arkanoid on the MiSTer, and it works great!
Tony and I definitely loved this upgrade, no added lag and LOTS of added support for all kinds of emulators and devices, well worth it! Also, this had NO effect on the trackball so keep up the Golden Tee play haha!
I use the D-Input Mode for the TankStick for most of the cores including NeoGeo. As far as setting up player 2 buttons, I load up the core, then in the menu I select "Define NEOGEO buttons". You can do this for player 1 and player 2 seperately, but when you setup player 1, it mirrors that to player 2 anyway.
@@oleschoolgamers I tried all modes, but it only asks for Player 1 Buttons. My tankstick is 2 years old and does not have the zerolag Trimode PCB. Could this be a reason? Or do I have to change MiSTer Settings for playing two Players over one USB connection?
[Hawk78] yeah if you have the original keyboard based PCB in your tankstick, there is no Direct Input mode or Xinput Mode, keyboard mode is the only mode. Getting the second player to work with all the Mister cores was difficult if at all, and frustrating, hence why I bought the trimode board. Now it works really well. I think the best solution is to just upgrade to the tri mode board, it’s only $20 bucks and you can change it out like in this vid in minutes. Plus you still have the keyboard mode anyway, so you can use it if you still need to for other setups. I tried getting the keyboard PCB to work as two players over one usb device, but the mister cores are not setup to be able to do that unfortunately.
@@oleschoolgamers Customer support isn't what it used to be. I submitted a ticket weeks ago with no response. I think the company is struggling. I was able to contact the the owner whos email I still have, and he suggested it might be the security settings in my browser. So I fiddled with those, but to no avail. Now I have a PCB that I can't use. All I really need is the programming app, firmware update, and Xinput test. Those files must be available somewhere but I haven't seen them posted anywhere except the company website.
@@MegaZAPHOD ugh, that’s awful to hear, cause they were top notch back in the day and responded to emails like they were texts haha. I wonder why the owner didn’t send you the firmware, I’d ask !
Is the version 1 PCB that was keyboard operated and had the 15 dpin socket on the rear zero lag? I was under the impression any PS/2 input device was zero lag?
The version 1 PCB has no lag either. My hunch is that they advertised the new board as zero lag to let everyone know it wasn’t gonna add any new lag either. In either case, that’s input lag, the display used can have its own added lag regardless of what controller is used. Hope that helps explain stuff, thanks for the comment!
@@oleschoolgamers Thanks very much for your help mate.. Greatly appreciate that.. Yeah I think you're right.. They were just emphasizing to dispel any concerns. And you're 100% about the display lag.. That's exactly why we should only ever be gaming on a CRT screen. That's a little know fact a lot of people don't know about. In my arcade cab I was using a hacked OG Xbox controller and a 24" Dell LCD. for years.. Then one day I swapped out the LCD with a 68cm CRT TV and a zero delay arcade board.. I literally beat all of my hi scores in MAME on my first go. The difference is astounding.
Absolutely agree! CRT / PVM is best way to go. When playing on my LED, I play with all the settings until the display lag gets down to 20ms or less but it’s still not great. Find a Leo Bodner display lag tester, highly recommend. I bring it into the stores when buying new LED TVs as well. Samsung’s seem to get the lowest lag times, the last big one we bought has 18ms, most are around 30-50ms (16ms = 1 frame)! CRT is still the best, but so many systems and not enough power / room lol. Appreciate the talk and thanks for the comment!
I installed a zero lag a bit back for my tankstick on my windows arcade. Upon reboot I always have to either disconnect it or switch from xinput to d and back to xinput before I play mame. Have you noticed this? (Just found your channel looking for videos on replacing the joysticks. Good work.)
Thanks for the compliment and congrats on the zero lag board even though you have this odd issue. I don’t have that problem, I talked to Tony about it and he doesn’t either so it’s hard to troubleshoot. Our guess is that you might have a conflict with a virtual joystick or something. Couple questions, does it require the switching only when hooked up to this PC or any PC running MAME? Does it require the switching when hooked up to a Pi / hacked console when you reboot them as well? If it did for any PC / any console / Pi / MiSTer etc then it’s obviously the tankstick, if it only requires switching when hooked up to your WIN PC, it’s the PC. You could also try Xarcade support and open a ticket. They respond usually within 24-48 hours. Let us know though we’re interested as well now haha
@@oleschoolgamers Same on another windows 10 pc. I updated the firmware though I thought I did before when I installed the zero-lag initially? I opened a support ticket so let's hope for the best. My workaround has been a USB hub near the controller with an on/off I click after a reboot. The issue has always been if I fail to do so and launch Mame my default.cfg file gets a rewrite and I have to map the controls again. Tedious. Thanks for the videos!
@@threestorks well, good news is you know its most likely your tankstick, bad news is its most likely your tankstick. Very odd, I'm really curious now to see what X-Arcade says. The good news is you can say you tested it out on another PC and it did the same thing so you definitely need their help (they can't say its your PC / configuration / whatever). Keep us updated, very interested.
@@oleschoolgamers their first reply was to update the firmware. Done. Second was to ensure the machine isn't putting the device to sleep. Done. No change. When I got the new board, I found another guy on youtube with the same issue. I need to find him and see if he ever found an update.
I did find this link: support.xgaming.com/support/solutions/articles/12000051721-tri-mode-pcb Scroll to the bottom under troubleshooting, the first item is your issue perfectly described. I’m wondering if it’s more a Windows thing based on their fix description. If you have a Pi or MiSTer or hacked console it could help prove that. But since same behavior is on Windows PCs, and the solution has to do with Windows settings it might actually be a Windows setting that happens to be the same on both PCs. Go watch my vid, hack your Wii and test haha. Keep us informed though, neither of us updated firmware, so don’t know what version ours are on.
That stinks. I’ve had mine since the making of this video, still works great. Two of my friends have this and got there’s before me and still work great too. I’d say you got a bad break and it’s not the norm. Did you contact them to get it replaced? 90 days is within the return policy I believe.
@@oleschoolgamers Its just a headache, it got stuck in programming mode out of the blue... had to reflash it, that wasnt easy to find on the site... and now for some reason the start button doesnt work. Its not the connection.
@@waynekerscabz I’d put the brakes on and contact their support directly and ask for assistance. That way they are aware of it and can replace it if needed, right now your kinda winging it on your own with no fall back. Just my 2 cents
Hello, and with this old model : drive.google.com/file/d/1L7WgMlXoA5n9QhfvEKJhB--YO7POrRYu/view?usp=drivesdk Is it possible ? And above all, how to do ? What to buy exactly on xgaming website ??
Does the trackball on the tank stick work with the MiSTer and the raspberry pi after this mod?
Jon Girard great question and it does! I love trackball games and have about 30 including Golden Tee series and Centipede on the Pi, and Arkanoid on the MiSTer, and it works great!
Yep I have to buy this now. I have the killer hyperpie 2 frontend and it will be worth the switch!!!
Tony and I definitely loved this upgrade, no added lag and LOTS of added support for all kinds of emulators and devices, well worth it! Also, this had NO effect on the trackball so keep up the Golden Tee play haha!
Which Mode do you use for NeoGeo Core and how can you setup buttons for Player 2?
I use the D-Input Mode for the TankStick for most of the cores including NeoGeo. As far as setting up player 2 buttons, I load up the core, then in the menu I select "Define NEOGEO buttons". You can do this for player 1 and player 2 seperately, but when you setup player 1, it mirrors that to player 2 anyway.
@@oleschoolgamers I tried all modes, but it only asks for Player 1 Buttons. My tankstick is 2 years old and does not have the zerolag Trimode PCB. Could this be a reason? Or do I have to change MiSTer Settings for playing two Players over one USB connection?
[Hawk78] yeah if you have the original keyboard based PCB in your tankstick, there is no Direct Input mode or Xinput Mode, keyboard mode is the only mode.
Getting the second player to work with all the Mister cores was difficult if at all, and frustrating, hence why I bought the trimode board. Now it works really well.
I think the best solution is to just upgrade to the tri mode board, it’s only $20 bucks and you can change it out like in this vid in minutes. Plus you still have the keyboard mode anyway, so you can use it if you still need to for other setups.
I tried getting the keyboard PCB to work as two players over one usb device, but the mister cores are not setup to be able to do that unfortunately.
Any idea where to get the tri mode firmware updates and programming software? All the links on the site are broken.
I’d contact Xarcade directly via email, they have a really responsive customer support group.
@@oleschoolgamers Customer support isn't what it used to be. I submitted a ticket weeks ago with no response. I think the company is struggling. I was able to contact the the owner whos email I still have, and he suggested it might be the security settings in my browser. So I fiddled with those, but to no avail. Now I have a PCB that I can't use. All I really need is the programming app, firmware update, and Xinput test. Those files must be available somewhere but I haven't seen them posted anywhere except the company website.
@@MegaZAPHOD ugh, that’s awful to hear, cause they were top notch back in the day and responded to emails like they were texts haha. I wonder why the owner didn’t send you the firmware, I’d ask !
Is the version 1 PCB that was keyboard operated and had the 15 dpin socket on the rear zero lag? I was under the impression any PS/2 input device was zero lag?
The version 1 PCB has no lag either. My hunch is that they advertised the new board as zero lag to let everyone know it wasn’t gonna add any new lag either.
In either case, that’s input lag, the display used can have its own added lag regardless of what controller is used. Hope that helps explain stuff, thanks for the comment!
@@oleschoolgamers Thanks very much for your help mate.. Greatly appreciate that.. Yeah I think you're right.. They were just emphasizing to dispel any concerns. And you're 100% about the display lag.. That's exactly why we should only ever be gaming on a CRT screen. That's a little know fact a lot of people don't know about. In my arcade cab I was using a hacked OG Xbox controller and a 24" Dell LCD. for years.. Then one day I swapped out the LCD with a 68cm CRT TV and a zero delay arcade board.. I literally beat all of my hi scores in MAME on my first go. The difference is astounding.
Absolutely agree! CRT / PVM is best way to go. When playing on my LED, I play with all the settings until the display lag gets down to 20ms or less but it’s still not great. Find a Leo Bodner display lag tester, highly recommend. I bring it into the stores when buying new LED TVs as well. Samsung’s seem to get the lowest lag times, the last big one we bought has 18ms, most are around 30-50ms (16ms = 1 frame)!
CRT is still the best, but so many systems and not enough power / room lol. Appreciate the talk and thanks for the comment!
quando lo metto si riesce a configurare visto che il mio vecchio non lo vede ma si accende solo non avendo questa scheda
è sicuramente un buon PCB e adoro il mio. se riscontri problemi contatta X-Arcade direttamente sul loro sito web. Mi hanno aiutato diverse volte.
Hi, after upgrading the board. Would I be able to play Street Fighter V on my PC?
Absolutely!
I installed a zero lag a bit back for my tankstick on my windows arcade. Upon reboot I always have to either disconnect it or switch from xinput to d and back to xinput before I play mame. Have you noticed this? (Just found your channel looking for videos on replacing the joysticks. Good work.)
Thanks for the compliment and congrats on the zero lag board even though you have this odd issue. I don’t have that problem, I talked to Tony about it and he doesn’t either so it’s hard to troubleshoot.
Our guess is that you might have a conflict with a virtual joystick or something.
Couple questions, does it require the switching only when hooked up to this PC or any PC running MAME? Does it require the switching when hooked up to a Pi / hacked console when you reboot them as well?
If it did for any PC / any console / Pi / MiSTer etc then it’s obviously the tankstick, if it only requires switching when hooked up to your WIN PC, it’s the PC.
You could also try Xarcade support and open a ticket. They respond usually within 24-48 hours. Let us know though we’re interested as well now haha
@@oleschoolgamers Same on another windows 10 pc. I updated the firmware though I thought I did before when I installed the zero-lag initially? I opened a support ticket so let's hope for the best. My workaround has been a USB hub near the controller with an on/off I click after a reboot. The issue has always been if I fail to do so and launch Mame my default.cfg file gets a rewrite and I have to map the controls again. Tedious. Thanks for the videos!
@@threestorks well, good news is you know its most likely your tankstick, bad news is its most likely your tankstick. Very odd, I'm really curious now to see what X-Arcade says.
The good news is you can say you tested it out on another PC and it did the same thing so you definitely need their help (they can't say its your PC / configuration / whatever). Keep us updated, very interested.
@@oleschoolgamers their first reply was to update the firmware. Done. Second was to ensure the machine isn't putting the device to sleep. Done. No change. When I got the new board, I found another guy on youtube with the same issue. I need to find him and see if he ever found an update.
I did find this link:
support.xgaming.com/support/solutions/articles/12000051721-tri-mode-pcb
Scroll to the bottom under troubleshooting, the first item is your issue perfectly described.
I’m wondering if it’s more a Windows thing based on their fix description. If you have a Pi or MiSTer or hacked console it could help prove that. But since same behavior is on Windows PCs, and the solution has to do with Windows settings it might actually be a Windows setting that happens to be the same on both PCs. Go watch my vid, hack your Wii and test haha.
Keep us informed though, neither of us updated firmware, so don’t know what version ours are on.
I bought one of these, and it lasted 3 months then stopped working. Beware.
That stinks. I’ve had mine since the making of this video, still works great. Two of my friends have this and got there’s before me and still work great too. I’d say you got a bad break and it’s not the norm.
Did you contact them to get it replaced? 90 days is within the return policy I believe.
@@oleschoolgamers Its just a headache, it got stuck in programming mode out of the blue... had to reflash it, that wasnt easy to find on the site... and now for some reason the start button doesnt work. Its not the connection.
@@waynekerscabz I’d put the brakes on and contact their support directly and ask for assistance. That way they are aware of it and can replace it if needed, right now your kinda winging it on your own with no fall back. Just my 2 cents
Works good for me now correct? I can have it recognized as an Xbox controller bla blah. We did this a year ago. Lemme know thx.
Glad you got it working, it’s a great upgrade to get.
Hello, and with this old model :
drive.google.com/file/d/1L7WgMlXoA5n9QhfvEKJhB--YO7POrRYu/view?usp=drivesdk
Is it possible ? And above all, how to do ? What to buy exactly on xgaming website ??
Looks like you have the right model, I’d call them to be sure though. The item to buy is the “zero lag trimode pcb”
@@oleschoolgamers Thanks. I sent email to xgaming to get this information. It's a shame for old customer to have to inform themselves...
@@omai5004 I’ve had to email xarcade several times over the last couple years, and each time they’ve been responsive so they should get you going.