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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ต.ค. 2024
- We installed the all new MrCool Universal heat pump in Grand Forks, North Dakota, which is the coldest city in the lower 48 states. Want to see how well this heat pump did? Spoiler alert, it heated the house and maintained 70 degrees while -24° outside.
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Today's heat pump technology works great. I have fugitsu mini splits in my house and in NY in January we go down to -6f . My units have maintained my poorly insulated house at 75f.
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How are they for power usage? Do you find them economical
How much for electricity bill???
@@rodrigomodesto1884 my electric bill never past 130 a month. Mind you my whole house is electric. All of my appliances.
Can you share how large your house is and size of the units? I'm trying to calc electric cost vs. sticking with gas. @MRCOOL share that the house in the video was $200 for Jan 2020. I paid $130 for gas in Jan 2020. I'm in NE Ohio so similar temps to NY.
I have the 3 ton universal unit and I'm so far very very happy with the unit. The AC and heat performance is amazing. Tech support is there to help if needed.
If you get 1 and install it correctly you will not be disappointed.
I also love how you can convert it from 3 ton to 2 ton easily with dip switches😎
Thank you Mr.Cool!!!
Great!
i use a Daikin and a fujitsu in Edmonton Canada and they work great until about -25 . A portable oil heater makes up the difference in really cold temps when the heat pump works but not as well.
So I ended up doing the work myself I do construction for a living so I preety much know my way around tools and ducts etc... the hardest part was the ductwork to get it back in but that’s because it’s in an attic and weird spot, unit was super easy to install did it in 1 full day. I have a carrier infinity heat pump system about 4 months old witch cost me $14k it’s in my first fl and the mr cool unit blows hotter air on 2nd fl without the electric heat coils than the carrier without the electric heat coils I couldn’t believe it. So far so good I can’t say anything bad about it. I would definitely recommend it. Just sucks that a lot of hvac companies won’t install this because it’s not being purchased through them.
Hi quick question; does the condenser connects to the air handler via the thermostat wires, and then to the thermostat in the house? I would appreciate if you can shed light here! Mrcool phone is always busy. Thanks
They dont like it cause they cant rip you off anymore! I just paid 900 bucks for a guy to come out and braze a tiny leak THAT I FOUND in my 14 year old Goodman heat pump and I even took the unit apart! took him 10 min tops and it was 600 bucks for the repair 300 for 11 pounds of refrigerant, the next day my reversing valve won't move and it's stuck in cool mode, i find that very suspicious1
This is a great system. I’m very happy with my purchase. The air is much warmer almost hot compared to the 14 year old heat pump it replaced. The install was very easy with the pre vacuumed line set. I have a 2 zone system using a Honeywell zone controller and everything is working like it should.
how big is your house? what state do you live in? interested in one of these too. I live in new england
@@lallygaber I have the same question. I will sincerely appreciate if he could share total KwH uses of this unit over a winter month too.
Would be interested to see energy consumption and COP at those temps
He shows the energy consumption on the phone app at min 04:16. it's 4.6kW/h avarage and peaks to 4.9kW/h at some point.
@@burakokumus6040 Woah, that's a lot of energy. I wonder if its cheaper or more expensive compared to resistive heat in these conditions.
@@prowler1992 5kw of resistive heating would only put out 17k BTUs/hour which is not enough to heat an entire home. The heat pump is still much more efficient than resistance heating.
That being said, natural gas is probably even more efficient at those low temperatures.
about half the power resistive heat would need
@@prowler1992 fwiw the math works out to like 60 cents per hour when the unit kicked into running 24/7 mode to heat the house. If it ran for 18 out of 24 hours that’s like $12 per day of heat (looking at his charts) for only 1550 square feet of house. Dropping the house temp to like 65 and/or outside temps above 0F would certainly help a lot.
The day I installed my Mr Cool diy 18k btu ac it was 62f outside. After that, Temps plunged into to 20s and 30s. I never anticipated using the unit to heat my theater/studio, but thats what I've been doing since spring has been cancelled apparently.
My unit will bring the room from 62f to 68f in about 6 or 7 minutes. I formerly used a 1500w electric space heater that would take a good hour to begin to heat this space.
I can't wait for 100f summer heat so I can see how well it cools!
hey hey @basspig - how did it do in the summer and what was the square footage of the space?
Congratulations Mr. Cool for this great success!!
I installed a Mr. Cool 12,000 BTU DIY system in coastal Virginia with concerns about our 'moderately' cold nights. So far we've hit the teens once, I think, and it's kept the FROG at a nice 72 degrees without effort. It's been running flawlessly for almost a full year and has done a great job so far!! We're loving this unit and recommend it to anyone who asks!!
Dave Va have you tracked your electric bill or the electric usage for your Mr Cool? If so what are the results?
I have a Mr. Cool hyper heat and it heats just fine at -30 in northern Maine. Those extreme low temps usually come at a few days at a time, not every day all winter.
I always skip ads, but this ad caught my interest! Great video Mr. Cool. I'd like to try this out next time I need a system.
I bought a Mr Cool system last year and installed it myself (very easy if you follow the instructions) and couldn't be happier. I haven't tried it on these extrem temps but I know when it was around 35-40 outside, it would warm that 28x17 rooms like nothing. It was a 12000 BTU unit.
I'm very excited to see this type of system have this much success! Very happy for you guys at Mr. Cool. To me, this is like breakthrough tech given the overall cost of the unit
Do you guys have coefficient of performance numbers (COP) for your heat pump at different temperatures? I believe this could help many of us including myself evaluate the performance of your heat pump compared to our current heat pumps.
For example on your website you list this heat pump being able to provide 100% heating capacity at -5 degrees. That is impressive because typically my heat pump provides very little output below 32 degrees and my auxiliary heat strips kick on a lot to help the heat pump out and that eats up electricity quickly and shoots up the bill. Your heat pump's electrical demand is lower than my auxiliary strips so the cost could be significantly lower to operate throughout the winter.
Is your claim that at -5 degrees your heat pump is 100% efficient or that at -5 degrees your heat pump still can put out 100% of it's heating capacity?
I'd like to see the COP vs. outside temp. Better yet, amperage draw.
I have an LG that is similar. In Feb we went through one of the coldest periods in the last 50 years. Our LG units are ductless mini-splits of the 20 SEER range, LG Red rated for -5 and 100%. As the temperatures dropped the old ancient Lennox heat pump started blowing cold air when the thermometer hit about 24 degrees. The ducts are in the attic and the unit just could not produce enough heat to even overcome the slinky heat loss. At that point I shut the unit down and closed the vents in the ceiling.
I took out the heat strips in our central air heat pump.
Mini-splits: There is one 9kbtu unit at one end of the L shaped house and one 18kbtu at the other in the den that has LOTS of windows. Construction of about 850 sq-ft is new with foamed 6" walls and R-22 or so in the ceiling. The core 1600 sq-ft is older construction with 6" or about R-19 bats n the walls and the same blown R-22 in the ceiling. The two little mini-splits kept 2650 sq-ft of house warm all the way down to our low of -12. The coldest temp at the most distant location of the house was 68 degrees.
Our utility has smart meters and we can get reports of consumption down to the hour. Our worst day averaged a temp of 4 degrees and our power consumption was 128.28 kwh. The worst hour was the -12 and 4.55 kwh. It takes more power to run the hot water heater.
I need to replace the old Lennox. It is 24 years old. The question now is with what? A) Inverter type ducted air handler. B) Zoned ceiling cassette mini-split unit C) go for broke with geothermal to heat the central part of the house?
We had propane for an emergency and we never used it. We now have a good soapstone wood stove for passive backup if we ever need it.
I imagine what is meant by ‘100% efficient @ -5F’ is that the heat pump will deliver the same heat at -5F as heat strips would. So I’m thinking below -5F resistive heat strips are more efficient at heating, even if the heat pump still delivers effective heat. Mind you that I’d expect 300-400% efficiency in more moderate conditions. Here in MidTN we rarely have a winter night approaching 0, so even though I’ve got the wire and breaker for it, I’m not installing heat strips. I’ll take the minor efficiency hit if we have some crazy low temps in the future.
I love it! One note, i see the Sense app wattage is reading about 4600 watts, and for that 3 ton inverter drive system that is about double what is should be pulling. I think your Sense energy monitor is reading Double the actual power. This can happen for a few reasons, but its the Sense monitors issue. I have the same Sense app and mine had this happen as well, so i have to reduce what im reading on the app by 50% to make proper "Sense" of it lol.
It's not reading Double the actual power, 3 tons is 36000 BTU's and 10,550 watts hours so in those temperatures the COP dropping due to the fact that the heat pump is near to balance point, so the COP is about 2, and probably the heat pump will not deliver 36,000 BTU's in those temperatures so it's even less than 2 COP.
2:40 in the morning and this house is warm. (As he is wearing a stocking cap)
I'd like to see this compared with a natural gas or propane furnace in 2 identical spaces. This seems promising, I'm in MN and up until now having a heat pump wasn't really an option.
Compared to propane you will save a ton of money at any tempture. Go to:
Maine Energy.org to see cost for all fuels.
@MRCOOL, do you have a list of installers in the Midwest?
I'm in Iowa, and none of my local HVAC businesses are willing to install this unit even if I purchase it myself. I'd install myself, but I'd prefer someone more experienced.
If you have a list of installers, I'd like to reach out to the ones closest to me and ask if they'd be willing to drive to where I am to install. I could send photos of my existing system it will replace.
That's because they want to sell you an expensive traditional unit. HVAC industry has a monopoly hold in the US. Traditional HVAC manufacturers won't even talk to a homeowner.
So... This setup would totally rock in say Middle, TN? Cause dang man.. This is impressive
Heck yeah!
It actually works so good I like it’s so cosy
Good presentation. Wish you had a little more technical info such as the unit specifications.
By far the best video that I have watched on the installation of a MrCool Heat Pump. Where did you buy the Honeywell T10 thermostat and the clear camera? Very detailed description of install. Thank you for sharing this valuable information.
Glad it helped!
I don't get how yours is doing that well. I have a newer house with crazy good insulation. On 3 ton it struggles to heat my house to 72 when it's 35 out. 1400 sq ft house. It's like the staging doesn't want to go passed 50%
Love it! Great video yall.
Thanks so much!!
I'm not a HVAC guy but the duty cycle seems like it would be about 95 % with out backup heat so the electric bill would be very high
Can you do a update video with a electric bill info
We will be publishing a lot more information about this pilot project on our website later this year.
4700 Watts is approx $0.56 per hour == $13.50 all day == $400 per month. This is 100% duty cycle - your cost will vary based upon usage.
And that's just for the heat pump. We had an estimate from a company for a change out on our electric furnace, with no AC, was 2400$, got an estimate that was a heat pump, 14,000$.
Wonder how this house is doing now.
How are you able to make/transfer heat at -24 degrees? Is it the refrigerant or an onboard heat strip? If it’s a heat strip, how much power does it use to keep the home at 70 degrees? Could this be compared to electric baseboard/resistance heating?
Impressive! Will this heat pump ever be offered with a downflow air handler as well, rather than only upflow and horizontal configurations?
That is in the works.
@@MrcoolComfort , Do you have a rough estimate on a timeline for the downflow air handler?
Not at this time.
@@MrcoolComfort I would buy one today if you did there is a large market for down flow to use in double wide homes.
this is an excellent video, Well done!
Thank you very much!
Anyone in the Twin Cities (MN) run one of these this winter? What was this past week like for you?
I'm very interested after they said we will replace your AC unit for $4,700. 👀👀 I live in a townhouse. When I can buy two of these instead.
Put the sensors in the coldest part of the house measure with heat radar prior and after installation
Hello Mr.Cool. I am going to install a MrCool 18 SEER 4 ton Heat Pump this fall. I am in Upstate SC. We have pretty mild winters with a few weeks of freezing temps. Would I be crazy to leave off the Auxiliary heat strips? I was in HVAC service for over 20 years and I never liked the thought of electric heat. The fact that this heat pump did not use electric heat has me very intrigued.
That wouldn't be crazy. We had the Universal running at twenty below in North Dakota. I don't think you get those temperatures in South Carolina very often, so you should be fine.
So how does capacity scaling work? If it's 3T mode, when would you expect to be at full 36k, is it a sliding scale based on outdoor temps, refrigerant temps or based on run time or how will it decide. If it's mild out, will it ask for full capacity or use some type of algorithm? If I need 1.5 ton, will the 2 ton be always pushing over capacity?
The system scales up as needed. It always starts out at a lower capacity, and then scales as necessary to meet the set temperature.
@@MrcoolComfort Is the air handler a variable speed blower?
Love this technology of not burning gas anymore.
The heat pump and air conditioning it is the same unit. Or heat pump has to be another unit?
Thanks!!
A heat pump is one unit that can both heat and cool.
@@MrcoolComfort I am sold then! Love this stuff and the quietness and not burning gas is absolutely beautiful.
Thanks.
COP calculation. System was a 3 ton unit per MRCOOL comment below. Assuming 1100CFM air flow (typically lower than 400CFM per ton for heating modes if ECM). Assuming power calculation is only for outdoor unit. Assuming this unit has an ECM motor fan for constant CFM at various duct static pressures. Assuming average 4700 watts, but not taking into account heat lost due to defrost sessions.
CFM=(VxAx3.414)/1.08xdeltaT Normally the vxax3.414 is calculated via the amount of power the heat strips took.
1100=(heat added to air)/1.08x17.6
1100=x/19.008
x=20908.8 BTUs added
That's 6124 watts.
6124/4700=1.3 COP.
For fun, let's use my costs for electricity of 11.4 cents for kwh in winter, and 80 cents a therm. According to the Mitsubishi heat cost calculator, for 1 million btus, a 96% furnace would be $8.33. This ssytem would be $25.62 when -24F outside.To break even, would require a COP of 4. But best I can tell a therm in Grand Forks can be about 58 cents.
That still doesn't mean you shouldn't consider this system. Burning natural gas puts tons of CO2 in the air, and thus you are essentially externalizing the costs to someone else in the future. That could be you. And you could install solar or wind energy and not pay anything at all for electricity or heating, or cooling! I'd need around 12 300w panels to do it, and my energy company will pay for energy I send back onto the grid, so no batteries needed at this time.
I still suggest if you can, using a heat pump that can heat to -22 but doing it zoned so you don't heat what you don't need.
Amazing!
@santaclaus,hahaha lol, nice heatpump
HSPF5 at -24F ? EER ? Temp ranges at my house in Texas from 0F to 118F Both of these numbers are highly important to me.
North Dakota ehh?
i love you MrCool
We got 2 units working fine in new jersey
TH-cam presents a recommendation film.
-3 degrees outside and cannot see your breath. Now im skeptical.
Seeing your breath requires more than just cold. It is a combination of temperature and humidity. If the humidity is off, you won't see your breath no matter how cold it gets.
I watched the video but can't believe it. I do hvac work, a 3 ton heat pump puts out 36,000 btu's of heat at 40 degrees, but as the air gets colder there is less heat in the air and at around 18 degrees you usually have half the heat which would drop the heat output to 18,000 btu's. That house looks at a minimum to need a furnace of around 80,000 btu's. I have a Goodman 5 ton heatpump 16 SEER 2 stage which will keep my house at 70 degrees down to 20 degrees but colder than that the temperature in the house drops. Since propane is currently cheap (99 cents a gallon) I have my system set up to heat with the heat pump down to 30 degrees, colder than than that I switch over to a 120,000 btu furnace.
I have a 24K BTU Senville unit that is rated to heat down to -22F. In use it still provided heat at -35F, but as you say less. I have the same size 1 1/2 story and the 24K unit heats it great, I'll have the house at 78-80F in the winter if I leave it run. Uses 2500 watts full on in winter, so I cycle it on and off depending on if I'm home, and leave the furnace at 67F for base heat when I'm not there. We are building hyper efficient homes now that are 15 times tighter than stick construction, and need much less energy to heat. www.energypositivehomes.us
Considering purchasing this system. Looking for more Info though
You can find out more on our website. mrcool.com/mrcool-dc-inverter-heat-pump-air-conditioner-split-condenser/
Check out: villageofartisans.com/product/36000-btu-mrcool-diy-do-it-yourself-16-seer-ductless-mini-split-inverter-air-conditioner-heat-pump-with-25-ft-installation-kit-free-shipping-copy/
Can someone please explain in detail why one would get a heat pump instead of furnace assuming gas connection isn't a problem???? Lastly why the heck is it called mr cool instead of mr heat?
It's called MrCool because that is their company name. They made their bones on DIY ductless AC units. I think heat pumps like this are a fantastic alternative for folks who live in the sticks or live in areas where natural gas is unavailable meaning we have to purchase expensive fossil fuels to be delivered to our homes. I just installed this unit myself due to that exact reason. If i had a natural gas furnace I don't think I'd bother. As an air conditioner, it's working amazing! not sure yet how it'll perform in the winter.
Long term thinking. Natural gas is bad for the environment, along with the massive amounts of C02 it produces. Right now if you can simply put in solar that takes care of all the electricity you need, and then some, you'd be more than carbon neutral and could heat your house for "free".
Most people have to deal with hot computers.
But if you live in a cold place just use your computers as a heat pump!
And you don’t even have to worry about your computer overheating.
i was thinking of buying bitcoin miners as room heaters (seriously) but this system is a lot cheaper to run
What’s the COP ratings for these units???
The Universal has a 10.5 HSPF.
Cool stuff!
So you're averaging 4.5kw/hr? That's around 3250kw/mo. $290/mo at .$09/kw electricity. Not bad at all for a cold climate like that. Wow.
It’d actually be less expensive because on average the unit won’t be running 24/7
what is the exact amperage draw for the 27k unit with 3 wall units, for ac and or heating
I have a home that I want to put two 27k units on a 100 amp service. Is that wise . I'm not hiring an electrician I'm very good with wiring just not sure. You are saying 40 amp with 8 gage wire , that's over kill to me. why 8. 30 amps it seems to cover with 10 gage supply, that's why I need to know the draw. thanks
Please call tech support at 270-366-0457.
you mentioned that the air handler and condenser both run off 240 volts 2:22 . Do they run off the same single breaker/wires or two separated breaker/legs?
In a central air system the air handler and condenser would typically be wired separately.
As a hvac contractor i would like to put this in with gas back up.
That's a popular choice.
Can you post the wiring diagram that was used with the Honeywell thermostat? I want to co firm it was installed correctly.
I'm sorry, we cannot. A local contractor installed the thermostat. As we had multiple independent sensors placed around the house, and connected directly to the Universal, we have no reason to believe it was malfunctioning.
so 4.5kw continuous (90%duty?) at 10 cents a kw, thats 324 dollars in 30 days....
that looks like the 2/3 ton unit, which is 36,000 btu, (10.55kw equivilant) so 2.34x the heat output over purely resistive heating. R410A refrig. 18 seer
Didn't say what size unit was installed,, the 3 ton or 5 ton
In this case, the 3 ton.
thanks, this looks great. if i buy the '2 to 3 Ton 18 SEER Variable Speed MrCool Universal Central Heat Pump Split System - Upflow/Horizontal with Quick Connect Lineset' on amazon and install myself what is the warrantee?
If you install it yourself in your own home with the Quick Connect lines, you get the full warranty coverage (i.e. - 10 year parts).
My big problem with this system, is what do you do for warranties? I'm not sure how you're able to get such great performance at such low temperatures, but if something goes wrong electrically I won't be fixing it for free that's on the customer. Mrcool will have to explain their warranty situation. Are they going to trust the contractors? I would have to see this to believe it with its performance at mine is 24 and still putting out over 90 degree Outlet temperature. My big concern is warranties. Like to know how they are able to make this perform so well at such low temperatures. Before I could ever suggest this to anyone I have to know a lot more about the warranty situation.
Give us a call at 270-366-0457, and we can explain our warranty process in detail.
How is this unit doing a year later? Hello from Chicago -20 below 😄
It's doing well!
Least you could of installed a bypass humidifier and use hot water thru the water panel..13% RH...I think my eyeballs would shrivel up. Also maintaining 40%-45% RH would actually feel warmer and could probably get away with 68° instead of 70°
You'd have water on the windows at those low temps outside.
Is this MrCool Universal approved for manufactured homes, please?
The current model is not, but there will be a high static air handler available this summer.
How much did the installation job cost for the universal system? Who did you use for the install?
We used a local company in Grand Forks. Installation cost for HVAC equipment will vary widely depending on where in the country you live.
Can this system be set up with a gas alternative heat source, like with the Signature series? Not that it's probably needed in Iowa, but I'd rather have a back up heat source regardless.
Yes, it can.
What are the benefits of installing an auxiliary heat strip? What it have performed better if you did?
What was that thermostat p/n? I want to order one for my new Mrcool unit before installation.
What system is this? i know it is a Mr Cool, but other than that i don't know much about this to look it up.
I hope they have a backup for when the power goes out
Idek how it works but it seems legit
Most central heating units require electricy to function, regardless of the source of thermal energy (natural gas, propane, oil, pellet fuel). I'd imagine a wood stove is a good idea in North Dakota.
id like to see the same test in a/c mode
We plan to put it somewhere hot this summer (depending on, y'know, how things go with social distancing, etc).
@@MrcoolComfort I am about to do a similar install in CA. I just placed the order. I'll record every step of the process!
Try not just hot as a simple swamp cooler does well.in low humidity, try an area when the temps hit 95-100 with 98% humindity.
@@MrcoolComfort Come back to grand forks it gets hot as balls there in July/ August.
@@donniebrown2896 So grand Forks in July/August?
Would the DIY mini splits work the same in the cold weather?
Our DIY ductless mini-split can heat in cold weather, but it is not as effective as the Universal heat pump. The Universal is specifically built to deliver that kind of performance.
My Mitsubishi mini split (bought in 2014) doesn’t do well below 30 degrees. Matter of fact, i turn it off and use a space heater. It’s worthless at that temp.
how about michigan winter? would love to replace my 20 yr old gas furnace. 3k+ sqft house. can you advise?
Depending on your lowest low temperatures, the Universal could be an option.
But will it work at -46f? Thats the current temp up here in Fairbanks AK. While the more average temp is -25f to -35f, if it can work at these temps id be sold
It would not be operating effectively at -46F.
Use gas or wood backup. Run it to -20. Should save money
Hi, what is the name of the current sensing tools ?
He explains in the exact same tone mr beast does 1:28
Nice.
Add more insulation
why wouldnt you pull a vacum, do you jus purge. ? How do you get the air{moisture out of the line ?
The line set is pre-charged, so you don't have to do that. However, using the pre-charged line is not required for the Universal.
@@MrcoolComfort That is really cool. I like what I see
@@MrcoolComfort I would appreciate if you could send my day some price info, We run a HVAC company here in Knoxville Tn. " Arctic Air Service Co." That would be awesome. Im looking at one for myself as well. My Dads email is Dennis.AAS@gmail.com and mine is Shadehope27@gmail,com Thank you.
We will have someone from our team reach out!
@@MrcoolComfort awesome. thank you guys,It gives me options as well. customers can buy it and have me to hook it up if there not comfortable. I love how they perform. Thanks again.
Looks like the blower motor in the air handler runs at constant speed ( ~ 900 CFM I guess ) even though the DC Inverters modulates the compressor output as per the heat load at a given point of time. When the heat load is low and compressor has ramped down to , say, 25 % of its capacity, would the blower not start blowing cold air as it is still running at full blast ?
I wondered that too. I wonder if the fan speed is just set high? I would assume that would have to be a variable speed air handler.
@jeb721
Air handler is not variable speed. The motor is brushless dc and speed setting low med high with on board dip switches.
@MRCOOL Which wall bracket was used to mount the outdoor unit? I'm having trouble finding one that is deep enough.
We always use the quick sling Where I work
Question for you. Is there condensation or water that needs to drain from the air handler unit on your standard mini split system? Obviously it can't drain outside or it will freeze. How does that work?
The Universal is a central system. In heating, the condensate would collect on the condenser. It has a defrost mode to melt any ice buildup.
@@MrcoolComfort ok thanks for the info! I'm debating on putting one in South Dakota but it looks like it works in North Dakota so I should be fine.
I just ordered this same system with a 25 ft lineset, do i need to buy those 4 brass couplers for the air handler and the condensor to hookup the lineset?
Not necessarily. You only need a coupler kit for the Universal if you need a longer than usual line set.
An upflow air handler? Where I live most people have a down flow set up. Is there a downflow unit? I would like to replace an oil furnace with one of these. Also, any chance of a larger tonage unit becoming available? Say 3.5 or 4 ton.
The 4-5 Ton Universal will be available later this year. We are working on a match for a downflow air handler.
@@MrcoolComfort This is good to know, thanks.
Is there a hot water radiant system available or only forced air
Only forced air at this time.
@@MrcoolComfort Any plans to support hydronics in the future? I’m in St. Louis in a full masonry historic home typical of older cities. The best heat in this kind of building is hydronic radiators of some type. If that could be paired with hydronic fan coils for cooling, it would be the ideal solution for historic homes like mine.
Well that’s impresive
What is the HSPF of this unit?
10.5
As harsh as those winters are, that's concerning not having any backup heating methods. Lose a compressor or other component, and you don't want your pipes to freeze.
you can install aux heat into it for emergencies
What would this system gain by being a "communicating" system? What would be lost? Is there any way to make it a communicating system by using sensors like the ones you installed in this video? Also, any ERV/air quality accessories you recommend?
The main reason behind making the condenser non-communicating is to allow it to be compatible with many different air handlers. We do not have any official guidance on how to make it a communicating system.
@@MrcoolComfort I'd be so interested in learning from the folks who dreamed up the sensor strategy in this video how to accomplish what they did here. I'd also like to prove to my smart building science friend why I don't need to spend 2-5x this much on fancier old-school name-brand equipment. Is there anyone at the MrCool team I could connect with about this?
You can always call in to speak with our tech team at 270-366-0457.
Houses should come standard with a heatpump instead of an air conditioner! Stupid yet that's not the case.
A heat pump can also be used as an air conditioner so you get two systems for the price of one with them, they are a good deal.
Most The houses in my area seem too come with heat pymps, I live in the south where winters aren't as brutal though and older heat pumps didn't work well with brutal winters. Modern ones like this could also work well up north.
Heat pumps have move components so more of a chance for them to fail. Units from the 80s and 90s seem to have last 25+ years. New ones 10years
How are you maintaining such a high head pressure, is this a Cascade system? Also what refrigerant is in the system?
I'm not familiar with a Cascade system. The refrigerant is R-410A.
You only see Cascade systems in low temp freezer applications
so what is the cost to run this unit in this weather? Is it cheaper or more expensive than space heater?
It is way cheaper to run our Universal than to warm your home with space heaters. This particular installation generated an electric bill of about $200.
Colder in NE Minnesota. -40º is the standard here. Power cost?
Our electric bill for this property in January was about $200.
Do you need a heat kit with this system to have heat or does the unit come with heat and the heat kit is just back up heat
The heat pump generates heat, and you can also install a heat kit for back up.
Is it an air source heat pump? are all mr. cool heat pump brands like this?
It is an air-source heat pump. Many of our best products are heat pumps.
@MRCOOL Is it correct that for the MrCool Universal 2 to 3 Ton Heat Pump system, no coil or parts need to be physically replaced to convert the system from 3 ton to 2 ton?
Only dip switches need to be set to different positions to set the indoor unit and outdoor unit to operate at 3 ton or 2 ton capacity?
If that is correct, and the system is set to operate at the 2 ton capacity, will the correct AHRI certified efficiency ratings be SEER 20 and EER 12.5?
Yes, you do not need additional parts to switch between the 2 and 3 ton modes. Yes, I believe those are the correct AHRI ratings.
@@MrcoolComfort I sent in a website form request asking MrCool to confirm this, but have not received a response for a few days. Could MrCool please repond to my request via email so I can provide the written information to my utility so they will approve my rebate application?
They are denying my rebate application unless I get manufacturer confirmation that the unit I have will meet or exceed the AHRI ratings of SEER 15 and EER 12.5.
I will take photos showing my units dip switches set for 2 ton operation.
Generally, homeowners use ahridirectory.org to get the AHRI ratings. The AHRI certified reference number for the Universal 2-3 ton is 205572573.
@@MrcoolComfort That AHRI reference number is only one of two that apply to the 2-3 ton system. For the rebate, my utility is scrutinizing which one it should be, 204117201 or 205572573
My question I emailed to MrCool is to confirm that setting the dip switches to 2 ton setting will change the unit to have AHRI number 205572573, versus if the dip switches are are set to default 3 ton setting it is AHRI number 204117201.
AHRI 204117201 does NOT meet the minimum EER rating to qualify for my utility rebate.
Yes, setting the 2 ton dip switch changes it to AHRI 205572573.
Did you install the heat strip on this unit?. What size of air filter this unit uses?.
We did not install a heat strip on this particular installation, but the Universal can accommodate a heat strip.
Would the DIY pump work in negative temps? We were looking at getting the hyper heat but can’t find anyone to install it...
The DIY works down to 5 degrees. The DIY Multi-Zone will work in negative temps. The best performer is, of course, our Hyper Heat unit. When it comes to mini-splits that is.
What mounting bracket are they using for the condenser? I can't seem to find it anywhere.
Any condenser mounting bracket of the appropriate weight class would work.
I want to purchase a Mr.Cool spilt system, just skeptical because I need 2 separate units
We have a ductless system with 3 ceiling cassettes and a wall mount hyper heat unit all running off of my 4 ton outdoor unit and we are very happy with it.
What would there monthly electric bill be? ⚡
The electric bill in January 2020 was about $200.
Where are MRCOOL units made?
Depending on the particular model, MRCOOL units are manufactured domestically, in North America, or overseas.
MRCOOL do you guys plan on making a DIY mini split that has defrost and heating capability as good as this one? I have a garage in Sioux Falls South Dakota that I’m wanting to heat/cool.
We do not have any plans for that kind of product at this time.
@@MrcoolComfort That stinks. I see your olympus hyper heat unit though looks decent. Just hard to find someone to buy it from that isn't online. No amazon!
Mirage does. The mirage life version. I have it. It's a little tank.
I think I now know why so few people live in North Dakota.