A BETTER Way To Shoot In Aperture Priority (Street Photography)
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 พ.ค. 2024
- Head to www.squarespace.com/romanfox to save 10% off your first purchase.
PRESETS, BOOKS, GUIDES & WORKSHOPS:
www.snapsbyfox.com/shop
FIND ME ON:
Instagram: / snapsbyfox
Twitter: / snapsbyfox
NFTs:
foundation.app/@snapsbyfox
opensea.io/snapsbyfox
BLOG (street photography, travel, gear & more):
www.snapsbyfox.com/blog
WHAT CAMERA GEAR I USE:
Main Camera: geni.us/F3NVbd
POV / Vlog Camera: geni.us/AiaFVsh
My Go To Do Everything Lens: geni.us/8dL3z
Street Photography Prime 1: geni.us/bI25
Street Photography Prime 2: geni.us/wWEa7
Street Photography Prime 3: geni.us/WYQJt6F
Telephoto Zoom: geni.us/jnDL0oe
Ultra Wide Zoom: geni.us/ohXtZ
Photo Editing Computer: geni.us/jQKh
Everyday Camera Bag: geni.us/HP0s
Full list of camera, hiking & travel gear: www.snapsbyfox.com/blog#/my-g...
*Affiliate links - doesn’t cost you any extra & I get a small % to support me*
WHERE I GET MUSIC & SOUND EFFECTS:
share.epidemicsound.com/NbcpZ
*Epidemic Sound affiliate link - you get a free trial & I get a small % to support me*
NEWSLETTER (behind the scenes, crap jokes, cool locations & useful tips):
www.snapsbyfox.com/newsletter
CONTACT ME ON:
Email: hello@snapsbyfox.com
Web: www.snapsbyfox.com
00:00 Intro
01:13 Min Shutter Speed & Auto ISO
03:55 Video Sponsor
05:14 Aperture Values
07:29 Exposure Compensation
10:20 Photometry Settings
14:25 Auto Exposure Lock
Great tips all around and I really appreciate your informative videos;
However, as far as I know the Center-Weighted metering mode ignores the focus point (always evaluates the center of an image, regardless of the focus point) as that is exclusive to the Spot-Metering mode, according to the manual/online info I could gather and test myself. Would love to hear your thoughts on this one.
You are right. I got muddled up. Cheers for bringing it up!
True, there even is an additional setting for changing the latter, called „Interlock spot AE & Focus Area“ - although I think you would usually want to leave this on
@@snapsbyfox Yes, indeed what Emir DG said, but that's why using SPOT on a Fuji is really great. And, with the latest firmware upgrades of the X100V you can even set a dedicated 'toggle' button to switch between e.g. Multi (let's say that this is your default) and spot for these special moments. I'm using the front Fn2 button for "Spot metering lock" to achieve this.
Depends on the camera but yes usually that is correct
This was extreamly helpful, especially the section on metering settings. I think for the first time, I understand that. Thanks!
OMG - the Holy Guide to photography. Auto ISO, Apertures, Exposure Compensation, Photometry and Auto Exposure Lock CLEARLY explained. We amatures need to focus on these items to achieve a full enjoyment of the process. Don't under estimate of the value your videos have provided to us, the silent photographer!
I use AEL very often, but have it locked (click once to turn on, again to turn off) instead of needing to hold it manually like you showed in the video. That way I can expose once lock the exposure and take multiple images having the exact same exposure, thus creating photos that are more of a series
Hi! How do you do that? When I choose "AE Lock Only" as the setting for the AEL button it still requires me to hold it until the picture is taken. Am I maybe missing something?
@@garciaon Hey, I figured it out. you also have to go into SETUP->Button/Dial Setting->pg 2/2 AE/AF-LOCK MODE has to be set to 'on/off switch' That way when you assign a Fn Button to AE Lock Only, it does it.
@@liquidsn Dude thank you! I had been trying to find out how to do this for a while! 🤙🏼
@@HaiTomVlog Sorry, missed your question 🙈However, my settings are indeed having the AE/AF-LOCK MODE to on/off switch. And besides that, the AELAFL button to AE LOCK ONLY and the Rear Command Dial (pressing that wheel on the back) to AF LOCK ONLY. → This way you can always lock/fixate your exposure with a press of the AEL button, or your focus with pressing the wheel, separately! 👏
And, if you appoint a button (e.g. Fn2: I'm using that little button on the front for this) to SPOT METERING LOCK, you can easily move into a different metering mode; Spot metering. This allows for very precise targeting where to calculate exposure on. Together with AE LOCK, you can then toggle this SPOT METERING to be able to "aim" where you want to lock your exposure on, based on specific things in your frame. So then, the way of working would be:
1) Enable SPOT METERING
2) Aim for where to lock the exposure on to
3) Lock with AE LOCK
Good idea. That also will then allow you to use Back button auto focus since you can't hold down 2 buttons at the same time with your thumb if it wasn't set to be a toggle instead of having to keep it pressed down. I think it deepens on the camera model to see if that is possible to make it a toggle or not though....
Crazy how much valuable content you publish on a regular basis (for free)... Nice video as always with good information
Greetings from Germany 👍
I’m a big fan of aperture propriety, especially when shooting fast paced scenes like kids, dogs, and weddings. The exposure lock is going to help so much! Thank you, Roman.
Great video duder! I didn't think I'd learn anything new since I'm super comfortable with aperture priority but man was I wrong. I especially liked the bits on the photometry modes and the practical use of the AEL function. I already knew what they did but having examples of *when* to use them is super helpful.
Another great video Roman. So clear and easy to understand. Should be mandatory watching for all starting out with this little black box. TH-cam videos by good guys like you turned me into a born again photographer. Thanks so much.
This is literally the most helpful video that I have watched in last couple of years. Thank you so much for helping us that don't have all the knowledge yet. Keep up with great job!
Kudos to you man! I spent the evening binge watching your videos because they are so good! You're able to teach a lot of useful things in a very clear, understanble way. Needless to say I'm subscribed now.
Once I finally got my Tamron 2.8, I always felt that I had to shoot portraits or single items on 2.8...but sometimes the images were too soft. I now have the confidence to shoot them on 4, and the images are lovely! Another great lesson on my photography journey! Thank you so much! From a very grateful 60+ year old lady. I have subscribed x
When you think about it, you kinda' buy a f2.8 so f4 is in optimum range, because if you bought an f4 it would be wide open and not at an optimum aperture... f8 would 5.6 or better would be.
The oracle. Love your videos, Roman. You make us what to take photos and strive for better. We’re sitting on a plethora of customisation and you help us navigate these options. Without your videos, my XT cameras would be used to about 25% of their potential. Cheers man. Keep doing your stuff.
Thank You Roman.
First channel I have seen to explain the metering modes, and more importantly, When, to consider making a change.
That is my learning for today,
Cheers !!
Nice one! Glad I could help
@@snapsbyfox
Now I have to put these bits and pieces together and Practice 😎
Great refresher on why to use Aperture Priority, I found it nice to revisit reasons for using it. The AEL button is (in my set-up) not easy to use as I prefer back-button focusing which I use predominantly for wildlife. Thanks for your informative videos... always a pleasure to watch and learn from!
This was so helpful, especially learning about photometry! I’ve learn a lot from all your videos so thank you for sharing your knowledge & insight! 🙏🏼
One of the best videos of its kind I've seen. That goes for many of your videos, Roman, I have to say(!), but this was outstanding. Having used a Lumix FZ2500 (bridge) camera for a couple of years, very happily, I have for several reasons acquired a Fujifilm X-T5. A big part of that decision was based on your discussion of the custom modes that you can set on the X-T5, which weren't available on the Lumix. A bit of background goss: I discovered your channel in 2022, a couple of weeks after I discovered James Popsys. I then discovered that you're mates, and have been following both of you ever since. Many thanks!
Great video 👍 I use the exposure compensation dial particularly for when I’m exposing for the sky in the background when shooting a portrait then I’ll use a flash to light up my subject in the foreground!! So I use the dial to a minus setting of around 2-3 stops of light
Probably the best video I've watched on the topic. Really well explained. It covers all the basics. Sample photos. Really usefull man, keep going.
I am new to photography and videography and have watched tons of videos but this by far simplified everything I been struggling with thanks a bunch
Glad you mentioned A(uto) E(xposure) L(ock) as it's crucial to using Aperture Priority correctly. If AEL isn't engaged when establishing focus the exposure won't be locked in so if you recompose, the camera's meter will go with the reading that it takes from wherever your camera ends up pointing before you take the shot. Aperture Priority is fantastic. I love it.
Thank you for the excellent primer/refresher course on using the camera to your advantage. I happen to photograph with a Fuji and have enjoyed making photographs for about the last 50 years. We learn something new everyday! Thanks again and good luck to you in your endeavors
Cheers!
This was a very helpful video and it got me re-thinking my approaches.
For me, the ‘Photometry’ penny dropped some time ago when I realised it was just Fujifilm’s way of saying “Photometering” aka Light Metering. I don’t think I’ve ever felt so clever and so stupid at the same time…
Thanks to this video I’m going to start using that AEL button more often!
Dude this is literally the most helpful video I've found in the past 4 years. Thank you!
Thanks! The last two tips are excellent. Only thing left to do is remember to practise them while out shooting. Probably best to take some notes...
I've been taking photos for 3 years now, always working with M - mode. Jayzus.... your tutorials, Sir, are awesome! Passing knowledge and skills in a brilliant manner. All the best, cheers!
This is the best how-to primer I have ever seen. Thanks so much for sharing.
Thanks for the tip re Spot Metering, that works a treat for street in the winter sun. Metering Mode is a thing I've neglected over the years.
Thanks, I am still a bit vague on how to use the photometry and AEL functions, but I will study it. Thanks for taking the time to do this.
Mate, Love It, it's like a quick workshop on practical issue and easy, easy to understand
Great video, one that I will get back to a few times. Metering is more valuable and less complicated than I thought. I will use this weekend to put into practice what you said. Thank you so much.
Fabulous video, very clear and precise, and very informative. Well done! look forward to seeing more.
AE-L is HUGE shooting outdoor candids at weddings. Because everything is fast moving AND you're usually using flash, expose for the sky and lock it, then recompose the people and TTL flash. The sky will be nice and blue, clouds will show up nicely, and the people will POP!
Thanks for the great metering explanation. Gotta try and get to grips with those in practice now.
If you have /good/ stabilisation you'll find you can run and gun a standard to wide lens at 1/60 and if you can hold the thing still then down to 1/30 or less. But this does not freeze subject motion blur. Birds commonly want at least 1/500, they move suddenly and fast. Shutter speed is chosen for the photo, not just to get the exposure right. I have yet to find a camera that chooses the best shutter speed in A mode out of the box, the settings need fiddling with.
Due to the way the NR works, a camera's optimum ISO is probably twice its base ISO. That Extended-Low ISO throws data away. At base ISO some of the signal is 'still in the noise', it will be clean but some of the data is lost. As the gain goes up further so the signal is pulled further up out of the noise and over the 'noise threshold'. As the gain (ISO) goes up further still so the noise creeps over the threshold. They all start to see some noise above 3200 but they should all shoot ISO3200 without batting an eyelid. The NR on a camera is usually pretty conservative and too aggressive, we can usually adjust it in several places.
You are a great teacher. Thank you for making this video for us.
Thank you for this. Gives me some motivation and tips of what I need to do. My next lesson at the camera club is aperture priority mode so thank you
This was so helpful! I’ve mostly only ever shot in manual (I shot exclusively film as a teen, so I just got used to it) but I will def be trying out AP. I was also just (embarrassingly) wonder what the AEL button was for the other day, as I’ve never before used it in my life 😅
many thanks for explaining Apeture setting so well and without being annoying like many other people!!
Auto ISO settings are spot on Roman...a great help for the day to day photography.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us !!!🙏🍀
Very well structured information, definitely cleared things up for me as a newbie photographer! Thanks, I followed you everywhere! Кeep up the good work Roman!
Very useful tutorial thank you. I’m a street photographer with a Fuji XT5. My first outing with it, Notting Hill Carnival !) , was a cloudy day yet many of my shots were under exposed. Poor use of the exposure compensation control. My second outing, (Brick Lane), was a sunny day yet no less challenging. The custom control on this dial is very useful for on the fly adjustments. Yet I still over did it. Your comment about small adjustments was very helpful.Thanks again.
Watched the whole things and learned so much from this thank you so much! ❤
Your tutorials are unvaluable. Tks
Note to self: don't steal Roman's recycling bin
Excellent summary/review of a modern camera basic settings and menu presets - especially Fuji Film.
Very interesting video, I've always used the AEL button as AFL (as an alternative for half pressing the button) and AFL for face and eye detection. I'll give a try for sure, thanks!
This is a great video. Thank you for this. The auto iso setting are so clutch.
Best vid on the internet around these topics ❤️👊
Thanks for sharing.. great video & comments explaining settings for optimal results... cheers 😀
The photometry and AEL portion of this video was very helpful to me as an "A" priority shooter! Thanks Roman!
Thanks for these recommendations Roman, I read a few articles on street photography settings and most were recommending to shoot at F8. I've been shooting at F8 for street photographer but the it came to me that I am shooting ASP-C the F8 recommendation is for full frame cameras and on my 35 mm lens F4 is like F6 full frame and F5.6 is like F8.5 full frame. I am going to try F5.6 or F4 from now on.
Dude, your photos look absolutely amazing! Great tips & very clear explanation too. Cheers.
I will try the metering settings. Thanks man great video!
Thank You for the great tips and your insight Roman.
Another great and insightful video. Keep up the good work!
Tips are great!!!! Extremely informative!! I watch a ton of these and you're breakdowns are spot on!! Definitely hitting the bell!! ty
I've learned more about fine tuning my XT4 in 18:02 than I have in the last six months on my own. Thank you Roman!
The best and most informative 🎉
As always brilliant !
Just getting a bit more into photography and the last two settings explanation was really useful, that's what i was missing.
You sir are gold! Thank you for this!
Thanks Roman- one of those rare, wonderfully complete videos that is about more than just the settings in the camera, but also tips for photography, composition, lighting conditions, etc. I’ve done so much manual that I need to practice this, especially for street. Three questions, one what setting(s) is EV changing with aperture priority? ISO? Shutter? Two, I assume if you hit a scene that your parameters (min/max) for ISO and shutter just wont work, that you switch to fully manual? Correct? Three, how do you lock AEL on Fuji X cameras like Roger in the comments? Thanks for you art and your patience! Geoff
Great video: teach me - and I'm a old Fuji X-pro1 user - to don't be afraid about Aperture Priority, Exposure Compensation and AEL lock... very instructive!!!
Thanks so much for the amazing content!
Thanks Roman. There was a lot of helpful information in such a short amount of time. I am taking notes.
Your sample photos look awesome. Thanks for the tutorial.
Extremely useful tips, especially for a beginner like myself. Thanks, Roman!🙏
Absolutely fantastic, thank you sooo much!
you always make so much sense, thanks
Have been starting to play with spot metering and AEL. Such a practical vid! Thanks, Roman
thank you for that very explosive explanation of many elements on the Fuji Film camera, awesome ...
What an awesome presentation. Thank you so much !
Hi, I am just getting into photography, and I love your content a lot, it just resonates with me.
Hi from Paris. Thank you so much for these settings and explanations. Very useful. As always, very good content. Thx Roman!
So helpful 🤩 thanks a ton, Roman 🙌🏻
Just wanna say you are awesome. Thanks for these videos I learn a lot
thanks for the info Roman
I was always avoiding using ael button, so thank you so much!
There a ton of videos on YT about how one ought to use Aperture mode and the results of using the mode. But, they neglect to review the tips you went over in this video. Thanks for video - it improved my photography in tangible ways.
Love the content as always! 2 questions - (1) How do you like the new 33mm compared to the 35mm? (2) Why do you shoot without the eyecup? I love the way it slims down the X-T4's footprint, just curious as to why you removed it.
I agree with most things here - but regarding the exposure compensation - I do use it creatively. Changing the photometry settings is just not quick enough for me - especially these days when you have an EVF showing you the effect of your changes in real-time (including a histogram). For me training my brain to do different things in different metering modes just does not work. It's just a lot easier to be dynamic using exposure comp... e.g. I see someone and I decide that I want to make them a silhouette - I just roll my thumb on the exposure comp dial and they are immediately dark. Saves me going into having to think "what photometry setting do I want" and then "where shall I grab my meter my light from" and then missing the decisive moment. I guess it's my lizard brain "make thing darker"... "make thing lighter", These days I am trying to change my shooting style to shoot in Manual but with auto ISO.... I think these days because most people shoot in Aperture Priority we have got to a point where intentional movement in images is becoming rarer and therefore more interesting. I am struggling a little to train myself though.... you do have to think about how you want to achieve the exposure more.... Would love a tips video on shooting like that if you are looking for a video topic.
Great precise and no bull s**t information.
subscribed!!
Thank you for this video! One question. I have ‘interlock spot ae & focus area’ ON. This imo means that the metering is based on where I put the square (when using single point). This is easier than AEL but gives same result? Especially with B/W metering for whites or blacks.
another banger! thanks brother 🙏
top tips i have just sorted out my X-T5 & X-T2 bless you!
You taught me in 18 minutes more than my math teacher, god and my grandma together in all my life. Thank you
Can’t wait to try all this out! I didn’t know what half of these things did.
All great explained. It helped me a lot to understand some features of my camera. I’ll put them into practice!
Some really good tips 👍 could these settings go in hand with zone focusing on the Fuji cameras? Or would you have to use complete manual mode?
I usually shoot through the optical view finder, so using the AEL is a bit of a challenge. However, I think you can achieve the same result by pressing the shutter button half way to lock the exposure. By shooting at Aperture priority, do you also set both the ISO and Shutter Speed to Auto? or only the Shutter speed and play/adjust the ISO manually?
Thank you. Great content I can actually use.
Hi Roman, it’s Sean in Atlanta! This was an awesome video because you have clarified some settings for me that I think I was using incorrectly. As an example, I was using exposure compensation more as a creative tool and I can see now that this was not the right thing to do. I also appreciated your clarification of the settings in auto ISO. I have always been unclear as to the minimum shutter speed to set. And I am definitely going to use the AEL button in the future! Good show!
Sean
Cheers!
This was such a great video!👍🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Very informative, some great stuff to think about Roman,thanks
Just found this video, not waffle at all. Super useful in fact. Especially photometry section beacuse you give example of when to use the different options. Thank you
Fabulous helpful videos. I'm still learning my XT4, once you set your ISO preferences 1,2 and 3, how do you access those settings and change while taking photos. Apology if this is a silly question, but I'm stuck. Thanks
I will try the auto exposure lock… I always use spot metering and it works really well for me
Thank you Roman, for your clear explanation in this video.
I’ll surely take better images now.
Hi Roman, what is the sense of setting the min ISO to 500? If it is too dark for shooting at 1/200 the camera would increase the ISO anyway.
Also, are you sure that centre weighted metering follows the focus square? I know that spot metering does work like this but I'm not sure about centre weighted metering.
Metering is overrated anyway. With mirrorless you get WYSIWYG, just look through your EVF or at your LCD and adjust exposure to your liking.