I have an F-150 with similar stance. Not as nice as yours but anyway - It’s nice to see someone with an American truck who understands the benefits of suspension & tires as performance improvements and not just vanity. 😂 I like your logic and it’s all intuitive and looks like it’s getting the job done. sweet setup!
Thanks Mitchel, I appreciate it. I’m right there with you, I like my upgrades to add functionality and performance. Thanks for giving the video a watch and the feedback.
You have done a nice job. I know a lot of folks prefer the short bed as it makes the truck look taller but I really like how your long bed looks with the lift. It’s definitely more usable space and with little loss on maneuverability when parking. Forgive me for rambling on about myself but you struck a cord and brought back memories of long ago. 40 years ago last April I got my first pickup truck. I bought a 1983 Ford F-150 4x4 XL with an in-line 6 engine mated to a 4-speed manual transmission. It’s all I could afford at 16. I grew up on a sheep and cattle ranch in the mountains of New Mexico. I drove almost 200 miles every school day to Artesia NM. The way I paid for the pickup was to cut firewood and sell, or barter. At that time I could cut, and split and prep for shipping one cord (4’x 4’ x 8’) of firewood every day by myself. On week days, I worked for my Dad. On weekends he would let me cut trees on his ranch and sell, trade and barter for what I wanted. Anyway my brand new pickup including tax title and licensing cost $11900. To make a long story short, I had to cut a lot of firewood to pay for the pickup. I installed a 5.5” SkyJacker lift and 36 x 13.5 x 15 Grand Prix” mud tires. They would remind you a bit of a Toyo Open Country MT’s. Anyway I ended up changing the gears to 4:56 and it made a massive change in the drivability of the pickup. I don’t know if you’re familiar with older pickups but even the 3/4 and 1-ton pickups were far underpowered in comparison to even mid size pickups today. For example my inline 6 had about 130 hp and 220ft lbs of torque. Does most powerful pickup motor of that time was the 400 with about 170 hp with 300 ft lbs torque. Matched with a 4 speed manual the inline got 28-30 mpg highway! Of course the speed limit was 55 mph back then. But even at 70, I got 22-23 mpg. So your truck has tremendous amount of hp and torque at about 2000 RPM. You have 3:55 gears and a 10-speed transmission. It’s been my experience that 4:56 gears will not help improve mileage on a lifted truck if it has the 10-speed. You may see a little improvement but unfortunately your mileage loss is caused primarily by the following and “in order of killing mileage”. (1) wight and rolling resistance of the larger tires. This won’t improve at all with gearing change. (2) aerodynamic drag. Once you lift a pickup, the airflow becomes extremely turbulent underneath the body. This turbulence creates drag. Then behind the turbulence you have 4 wide tires and all the suspension and drivetrain components that are now in the slip stream that is turbulent and exposed. (3) weight. Your truck gained several hundred pounds. What the 4:56 and your tire diameter should get you is something close to stock tires with 3:73 gears. Good news is your truck looks amazing, your truck is far more capable off road than before and it is so much nicer to ride in a tall vehicle than in one lower to the ground. A little fuel mileage isn’t too much to ask for in order to lift the truck.
It's because a large number of people are lifting for appearance and purely out of vanity instead of lifting for utility, performance and comfort. (I roll my eyes when I see 24" wheels and no rubber... I mean, why?! LoL). I have a 2018 Lariat Screw 4x4 Sport with the same BDS kit, 18" Fuel wheels, carrier bearing drop, etc. (Basically the same truck shown here, but white). The only difference is that I got the BDS traction bars instead of the UCA's since I had to handle a few maintenance items right before I got my truck lifted, which ate into my lift budget. But, I can slap on UCAs in a couple months when I can afford to burn another $800. After that, I plan to move on to bigger turbos. I already did the jumbo intercooler, hot & cold pipes, BOV, & 304 SS exhaust in preparation for the turbo upgrade.
@jeremyhess7977 I like your taste, lol, I have since added the traction bars. Noticeable Difference with performance upgrades? Moving to intercooler, downpipes, and tune next for myself as well.
For your front valence, I ended up removing the lower valence on my 2020 and then trimming along that line just above where the bolts go to connect it. I used a jigsaw with a clean blade and then cleaned up the edge. If you take your time it looks fantastic and cleans up the look of the front end
what's the height of the truck now?? I have a '23 coming that's I'm planning on doing very similar stuff with, but I need to know what the height is. Please and TY :)
Hey Steve, I am just a hair under 7’. My navigation actually touches the rubber trim on my 7ft garage door when pulling it in or out. And only bc suspension has settled about 1/2”. When I first installed it I was not able to pull it in.
It only took a couple days. Very fast but they are only a few hour drive from where I live. They are located in Coldwater Michigan, I am in Chicago area.
Well depends on a couple things. If your truck is leveled or lifted, the ball joint in a factory UCA can get out on a pretty aggressive angle causing premature wear. An aftermarket UCA will adjust for the angle caused by the lift and put your camber back closer to factory spec. Will the control arms themselves give you a noticeable better ride for daily driving. Probably not. But will allow for better alignment specs which in itself will give a better ride if your caster and camber specs are where they should be.
Gotcha, you will be happy with it I’m sure. Well the BdS knuckles are designed to accommodate a factory upper control arm. I will say the BDS UCA are really beefy. And the bushing are much stronger than factory as well. Will they result in better ride quality for daily driving? Not 100% sure as I put them on the same time as I did my kit but I imagine it would not be a noticeable difference in ride quality. Will they last longer than factory ball joints and bushings, yes for sure. And if you plan on using for off-road at all, I’d def go with them for the extra strength to accommodate the wear and tear of larger, heavier tires.
Well anytime you have additional rolling mass at each corner, you will accelerate the wear and tear of front end components, however the BDS suspension design does a great job retaining factory driveline angles to help reduce that wear. As things wear the plan is to replace with upgraded beefier components.
@@liftedlifegarage are there tie rid ends and cv axles for theses f150’s with more beef than stock? I’m sure there are upper and lower control arms but it’ll need more than that.
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I have an F-150 with similar stance. Not as nice as yours but anyway - It’s nice to see someone with an American truck who understands the benefits of suspension & tires as performance improvements and not just vanity. 😂 I like your logic and it’s all intuitive and looks like it’s getting the job done. sweet setup!
Thanks Mitchel, I appreciate it. I’m right there with you, I like my upgrades to add functionality and performance. Thanks for giving the video a watch and the feedback.
You have done a nice job. I know a lot of folks prefer the short bed as it makes the truck look taller but I really like how your long bed looks with the lift. It’s definitely more usable space and with little loss on maneuverability when parking.
Forgive me for rambling on about myself but you struck a cord and brought back memories of long ago.
40 years ago last April I got my first pickup truck. I bought a 1983 Ford F-150 4x4 XL with an in-line 6 engine mated to a 4-speed manual transmission. It’s all I could afford at 16. I grew up on a sheep and cattle ranch in the mountains of New Mexico. I drove almost 200 miles every school day to Artesia NM. The way I paid for the pickup was to cut firewood and sell, or barter. At that time I could cut, and split and prep for shipping one cord (4’x 4’ x 8’) of firewood every day by myself. On week days, I worked for my Dad. On weekends he would let me cut trees on his ranch and sell, trade and barter for what I wanted. Anyway my brand new pickup including tax title and licensing cost $11900.
To make a long story short, I had to cut a lot of firewood to pay for the pickup. I installed a 5.5” SkyJacker lift and 36 x 13.5 x 15 Grand Prix” mud tires. They would remind you a bit of a Toyo Open Country MT’s.
Anyway I ended up changing the gears to 4:56 and it made a massive change in the drivability of the pickup. I don’t know if you’re familiar with older pickups but even the 3/4 and 1-ton pickups were far underpowered in comparison to even mid size pickups today.
For example my inline 6 had about 130 hp and 220ft lbs of torque. Does most powerful pickup motor of that time was the 400 with about 170 hp with 300 ft lbs torque. Matched with a 4 speed manual the inline got 28-30 mpg highway! Of course the speed limit was 55 mph back then. But even at 70, I got 22-23 mpg.
So your truck has tremendous amount of hp and torque at about 2000 RPM. You have 3:55 gears and a 10-speed transmission. It’s been my experience that 4:56 gears will not help improve mileage on a lifted truck if it has the 10-speed. You may see a little improvement but unfortunately your mileage loss is caused primarily by the following and “in order of killing mileage”. (1) wight and rolling resistance of the larger tires. This won’t improve at all with gearing change. (2) aerodynamic drag. Once you lift a pickup, the airflow becomes extremely turbulent underneath the body. This turbulence creates drag. Then behind the turbulence you have 4 wide tires and all the suspension and drivetrain components that are now in the slip stream that is turbulent and exposed. (3) weight. Your truck gained several hundred pounds.
What the 4:56 and your tire diameter should get you is something close to stock tires with 3:73 gears.
Good news is your truck looks amazing, your truck is far more capable off road than before and it is so much nicer to ride in a tall vehicle than in one lower to the ground. A little fuel mileage isn’t too much to ask for in order to lift the truck.
The stance is perfect! Truck looks fantastic on that setup!
Thank you much!
Why is it so hard to find a lifted F1 with small wheels and big tires nowadays?? Looks amazing! Love to see more videos of it in action
Thanks man, and I agree, it’s a rarity, lol. It’s been too long since I’ve posted. Hoping to get another couple videos up over the next couple weeks.
It's because a large number of people are lifting for appearance and purely out of vanity instead of lifting for utility, performance and comfort.
(I roll my eyes when I see 24" wheels and no rubber... I mean, why?! LoL).
I have a 2018 Lariat Screw 4x4 Sport with the same BDS kit, 18" Fuel wheels, carrier bearing drop, etc. (Basically the same truck shown here, but white).
The only difference is that I got the BDS traction bars instead of the UCA's since I had to handle a few maintenance items right before I got my truck lifted, which ate into my lift budget. But, I can slap on UCAs in a couple months when I can afford to burn another $800.
After that, I plan to move on to bigger turbos. I already did the jumbo intercooler, hot & cold pipes, BOV, & 304 SS exhaust in preparation for the turbo upgrade.
@jeremyhess7977 I like your taste, lol, I have since added the traction bars. Noticeable Difference with performance upgrades? Moving to intercooler, downpipes, and tune next for myself as well.
For your front valence, I ended up removing the lower valence on my 2020 and then trimming along that line just above where the bolts go to connect it. I used a jigsaw with a clean blade and then cleaned up the edge. If you take your time it looks fantastic and cleans up the look of the front end
Nice, I took the bottom edge corners in which cleaned up nice and I like the look of. Should post a pic, I’d love to see your finish product.
You have solid taste; what a stance! The offset bois don’t know what they’re missing.
Thank you, much appreciated
Those tires look absolutely bad ass.
what's the height of the truck now?? I have a '23 coming that's I'm planning on doing very similar stuff with, but I need to know what the height is. Please and TY :)
Hey Steve, I am just a hair under 7’. My navigation actually touches the rubber trim on my 7ft garage door when pulling it in or out. And only bc suspension has settled about 1/2”. When I first installed it I was not able to pull it in.
@@liftedlifegarage awesome, thanks 😊
How long did it take for BDS to ship the kit, I just got a 4” and was wondering.
It only took a couple days. Very fast but they are only a few hour drive from where I live. They are located in Coldwater Michigan, I am in Chicago area.
Did you had to install wheel spacers in the back?
@@PivitoPivito no wheel spacers were installed. Just used aftermarket wheels with a +12 offset
Great Lookung truck!
🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Thoughts on the BDS UCAs for daily driving, will I see a difference?
Well depends on a couple things. If your truck is leveled or lifted, the ball joint in a factory UCA can get out on a pretty aggressive angle causing premature wear. An aftermarket UCA will adjust for the angle caused by the lift and put your camber back closer to factory spec. Will the control arms themselves give you a noticeable better ride for daily driving. Probably not. But will allow for better alignment specs which in itself will give a better ride if your caster and camber specs are where they should be.
@@liftedlifegarage I’ll also be doing a 6 inch CDs lift with the fox elite coil overs in the front
Gotcha, you will be happy with it I’m sure. Well the BdS knuckles are designed to accommodate a factory upper control arm. I will say the BDS UCA are really beefy. And the bushing are much stronger than factory as well. Will they result in better ride quality for daily driving? Not 100% sure as I put them on the same time as I did my kit but I imagine it would not be a noticeable difference in ride quality. Will they last longer than factory ball joints and bushings, yes for sure. And if you plan on using for off-road at all, I’d def go with them for the extra strength to accommodate the wear and tear of larger, heavier tires.
@@liftedlifegarage thanks for the info!
Of course. Appreciate you watching.
Curious as to how all the front end parts are going to stand up to 37’s over time.
Well anytime you have additional rolling mass at each corner, you will accelerate the wear and tear of front end components, however the BDS suspension design does a great job retaining factory driveline angles to help reduce that wear. As things wear the plan is to replace with upgraded beefier components.
@@liftedlifegarage are there tie rid ends and cv axles for theses f150’s with more beef than stock? I’m sure there are upper and lower control arms but it’ll need more than that.
@Dre_Sted Yes RPG Steering makes an upgraded Tie rod end and RCV makes a beefy CV axle.
How much is the regearing gonna run you?
I’ll be doing the labor myself so roughly around a grand for ring and pinions and install kits.
Not bad... Not a bad way to spend 10k