Just from a SQ snob 1. Kicks will sound better than doors. But only Midrange purposes 2. Never mount a speaker on a door panel. Sound proof the the doors inside window frame BOTH sides. The two sides that face each other. Then the other side of the metal the part that faces you. Now sound proof the entire inside of the trim panel and wrap all the wires. You can also place metal rods inside the door where the window track doesn’t move to. 3. Those pillars pods can create beaming or a uniform sound because there is no air behind the mid. That’s why SQ people cut into pillars and bass heads just add speakers to anywhere they can to be just loud. 4. Not familiar with that DSP program but it should be more effective that the Halo unit. 5. Those subs WILL sound better in a ported box. You said yourself that you are going for a higher ohm load like home stereo. Home stereo has higher ohm load not necessarily for better output but because power is largely available from the the house. Also the receiver runs sometimes 10 speakers so the ohm load is low for heat . Also the subwoofer in a home stereo system are ALL ported. SQ bass is nice I have 3 sealed 10” Infinity But I had to add MUCH more power which can be a drawback considering running on stock electrical I also built three different ported boxes at different volumes and ports until I found the sound I was looking for. You have a truck so if you go ported and you should I would go with a large under-seatbox tuned to 30 or 33hz I’m not being a prick just being a SQ snob
@@julesbruchez-theartofgrapp9646 I appreciate the information! Still have a lot of work to do with this build. It’s my first “sq” build so im learning as im going.
@ I had my highs and mids on an Alpine AB and it does sound better than Alpine Class D. But I would have never know the difference if I never checked. I use the New Alpine c60 DSP. Those things are incredible for analyzing the car for the best response. Your Arc Audio amp is legit and great. I also have a 6x9 threw way component set in the front with the High Pass set at 73 hz with 36db slope. I also run components in the back. I use Infinity all the way around. Warning!!! ⚠️ SQl people are never satisfied
Can't wait to hear the final build. Sucks that the left mid is blocked by the dash cluster, but if you raised it an inch or two, it would hardly be noticeable and could save you on building custom pillars. I know we all want things even and equal in our cars, but the cars themselves aren't even and equal, so you could get away with a 1.5-2" difference in pillar pod height.
@@Ahm-Creative thanks for the real advice, i think i was stressing to much about it.. after i get the subs installed i really gotta improve my install on the midbass.. any recommendations?
@SQ_Silverado my mid bass is in my doors like yours and crossed at 80hz too (80-250hz)... so we should be getting a somewhat similar sound...depending on the tuning of course. But I've heard many say that mid bass in the doors vs kick panels is relatively the same... and I agree. I just made sure to make my doors solid with lots of sound deadening, and I've been good. Upper frequencies (200hz and above) buzz sometimes, but it's ok otherwise... and I'm not taking up leg space or risking ppl kicking them by moving them.
I’m so pissed! Came home last week to find my 2yo broke these Mille Legend tweeters in my Vanderhall Carmel… almost $500 down the drain! Got the 5 channel arc audio x2 running with a kicker q class 8 inch in the rear. Sounds “was” phenomenal.
Nah, go online enter the year make model trim level of your ride. Order another pair of a pillar trims right out of the gate. Leave the current ones on until the new is ready. 3d print or build and shape a plate that can hold a 4” mid and a 2” tweet. Get your fiberglass game going. Lose that handle or buy two pairs of trims and make one with and one without. With the 4” and 2” you could always fabricate rings to reduce the opening. Make a grill and just a trim plate for each side.
@ SQ_Silverado what does the ohms define in a subwoofer ? I see that Jl Audio W7 come from 1.5 ohms up to 3ohms and would like to know the difference. Thanks.
@@pimpplayzz6012 I don’t have any rear speakers at the moment. Just the subs. Some SQ systems do have differential “rear fill” but I won’t be going that route until everything else is properly installed.
@@SQ_Silverado you got no choice but helix or zapco. go for the helix bro. and get only the amts on the pillars with simple selfmade brackets with one two screws glued from the inside of the plastic pillar on a selfmade wooden or 3D printed wooden box (must be good looking atleast) that will hold the AMT. do it once and for good. ive seen all your vids and you seem to be passionate about it. go for a helix dsp, the ultra, or why not the P6 ultimate? 6 super good quality built in channels and 6 more out. gives you headroom to play with your amps that you already have. this gives you a fully flegded dsp, and an amp. makes it a good bargain. if you choose for example to go for their 12 channel dsp, you got 10 amped outs and 2 line outs for subs. those 10 channels are all 2 ohm capable, you can hook up some powerful 2ohm capable 8 inch door speakers like BLAM or HELIX. they both make some very good door speakers, specially blam makes crazy powerful loud speakers. im an enthusiast like you in europe, i got to hear blam in real life and i can tell you onething. its the best speakers by far, by f*** far!!! dont look at graphs. they are all the same. their company has opted not to do AMT for one single reason, AMT need to be directional and that doesnt leave space for installers to promote products at the end....its the reason why all of them make silk domes...ease of install...dont forget my advice on blam. its what i will get once i have figured out my system for the moment. and dont forget to make some custom aluminium rings with screw rivets etc, dont work with MDF. you got a big american truck that loves to flex although you wont notice. rigidity is key. there are plenty of results showing that just by dampening and stiffening the door you gain 6-7db in volume with the same stock factory speakers. i saw in the vid that you will go kick mount thats why i say work with rivets after the cutouts. i hope ure not too influenced from stagsaudio and pssound with their infinite baffle, kicks etc. sure its better. but its how they lure customers into their shops because not everyone has the balls to do that themselfes, and the quality is not extremely different from a properly well mounted hyperstiffened door. dont go floor for the speakers, but ad a super tiny front sub. hertz and jl flat subs are the best of the best. make the smallest enclosure the sub needs. way better investement in nerves and time compared to kicks. good luck. i watch your videos often when searching for hertz stuff. lol (didnt go hertz but went by getting dayton stuff until i do my big move to audiofrog/karma/blam stuff level, though i will buy hertz for my rear doors, a passive 2 way kit for some rear fill)
@@ah4800I don’t want to run them full power just yet, my stock electrical won’t be able to handle it.. I have big 3 but need extra battery possibly upgrading alternator.. once I go back to JL audio amplifier I will give them full power
@SQ_Silverado check out the new limitless sodium batteries. They claim the 30ah supports 5000 watts on a 100 amp alt and they work with any other chemistry. No isolators or anything.
I'm Mexican, don't judge😂😂😂 Great plan for the system👍
@@RAW-CAt 😂 much appreciated thank you! 🙏🏽
You can’t argue with him. He is confident and accurate. 🙏🏽
@@motorcopT2 still learning but I’ve learned a thing or two over the years
System is going to be amazing
Just from a SQ snob
1. Kicks will sound better than doors. But only
Midrange purposes
2. Never mount a speaker on a door panel. Sound proof the the doors inside window frame BOTH sides. The two sides that face each other. Then the other side of the metal the part that faces you. Now sound proof the entire inside of the trim panel and wrap all the wires. You can also place metal rods inside the door where the window track doesn’t move to.
3. Those pillars pods can create beaming or a uniform sound because there is no air behind the mid. That’s why SQ people cut into pillars and bass heads just add speakers to anywhere they can to be just loud.
4. Not familiar with that DSP program but it should be more effective that the Halo unit.
5. Those subs WILL sound better in a ported box. You said yourself that you are going for a higher ohm load like home stereo. Home stereo has higher ohm load not necessarily for better output but because power is largely available from the the house. Also the receiver runs sometimes 10 speakers so the ohm load is low for heat . Also the subwoofer in a home stereo system are ALL ported.
SQ bass is nice I have 3 sealed 10” Infinity
But I had to add MUCH more power which can be a drawback considering running on stock electrical
I also built three different ported boxes at different volumes and ports until I found the sound I was looking for.
You have a truck so if you go ported and you should I would go with a large under-seatbox tuned to 30 or 33hz
I’m not being a prick just being a SQ snob
@@julesbruchez-theartofgrapp9646 I appreciate the information! Still have a lot of work to do with this build. It’s my first “sq” build so im learning as im going.
@
I had my highs and mids on an Alpine AB and it does sound better than Alpine Class D. But I would have never know the difference if I never checked. I use the New Alpine c60 DSP. Those things are incredible for analyzing the car for the best response.
Your Arc Audio amp is legit and great.
I also have a 6x9 threw way component set in the front with the High Pass set at 73 hz with 36db slope. I also run components in the back. I use Infinity all the way around.
Warning!!! ⚠️ SQl people are never satisfied
@@julesbruchez-theartofgrapp9646 very true! Chasing the dragon now
Hey love the video, you’re doing a great job on this sql build!!! Keep it up I’ll be following it all.
Thanks, appreciate the support!! 👍
Can't wait to hear the final build. Sucks that the left mid is blocked by the dash cluster, but if you raised it an inch or two, it would hardly be noticeable and could save you on building custom pillars. I know we all want things even and equal in our cars, but the cars themselves aren't even and equal, so you could get away with a 1.5-2" difference in pillar pod height.
@@Ahm-Creative thanks for the real advice, i think i was stressing to much about it.. after i get the subs installed i really gotta improve my install on the midbass.. any recommendations?
@SQ_Silverado my mid bass is in my doors like yours and crossed at 80hz too (80-250hz)... so we should be getting a somewhat similar sound...depending on the tuning of course. But I've heard many say that mid bass in the doors vs kick panels is relatively the same... and I agree. I just made sure to make my doors solid with lots of sound deadening, and I've been good. Upper frequencies (200hz and above) buzz sometimes, but it's ok otherwise... and I'm not taking up leg space or risking ppl kicking them by moving them.
@ thank you fam 🙏🏽 hope you been having good holidays !
@SQ_Silverado you too, my brotha!
I couldn't agree with you more on the sound from a silk dome tweeter!
I went with high end morel for mids n subs .
Bro you hit a key! Same reason I put an spl 8 in my sq set up. I run an Audison too. Recommend a jl bass amp then you won’t have to compromise.
I’m so pissed! Came home last week to find my 2yo broke these Mille Legend tweeters in my Vanderhall Carmel… almost $500 down the drain! Got the 5 channel arc audio x2 running with a kicker q class 8 inch in the rear. Sounds “was” phenomenal.
@@vbenton11 ouchhhh , hope you get a replacement soon man
Nah, go online enter the year make model trim level of your ride. Order another pair of a pillar trims right out of the gate. Leave the current ones on until the new is ready. 3d print or build and shape a plate that can hold a 4” mid and a 2” tweet. Get your fiberglass game going. Lose that handle or buy two pairs of trims and make one with and one without. With the 4” and 2” you could always fabricate rings to reduce the opening. Make a grill and just a trim plate for each side.
Why adjust? You have a headunit that can correct that without moving anything. Time alignment
@ SQ_Silverado what does the ohms define in a subwoofer ? I see that Jl Audio W7 come from 1.5 ohms up to 3ohms and would like to know the difference. Thanks.
Can you run through your audison bit one settings. I have some old school Boston’s acoustic pro 6.5 I’m trying to run active. Ty
@@latola7204 my settings will be a lot different then what your speakers would be.. due to thielle small parameters and vehicle and speaker location
@ did you run a crossover or bass blocker for your tweeters in case dsp failed? Ty
Did you mount your mid bass from the outside because it’s an 8”?
@@carsondoran6994 don’t do what I did, eventually im going to mount it properly in the kicks.
@ ok cool
Did you upgrade your rear door speakers?
@@pimpplayzz6012 I don’t have any rear speakers at the moment. Just the subs. Some SQ systems do have differential “rear fill” but I won’t be going that route until everything else is properly installed.
Time for some hand jive
get some amt stuff from dayton and see what it does. wont cost a fortune.
@@GuitarTherapy144 Maybe as a super tweeter up high on the a pillars but for now gotta install everything a little better first and get a better dsp
@@SQ_Silverado you got no choice but helix or zapco. go for the helix bro. and get only the amts on the pillars with simple selfmade brackets with one two screws glued from the inside of the plastic pillar on a selfmade wooden or 3D printed wooden box (must be good looking atleast) that will hold the AMT. do it once and for good. ive seen all your vids and you seem to be passionate about it. go for a helix dsp, the ultra, or why not the P6 ultimate? 6 super good quality built in channels and 6 more out. gives you headroom to play with your amps that you already have. this gives you a fully flegded dsp, and an amp. makes it a good bargain. if you choose for example to go for their 12 channel dsp, you got 10 amped outs and 2 line outs for subs. those 10 channels are all 2 ohm capable, you can hook up some powerful 2ohm capable 8 inch door speakers like BLAM or HELIX. they both make some very good door speakers, specially blam makes crazy powerful loud speakers. im an enthusiast like you in europe, i got to hear blam in real life and i can tell you onething. its the best speakers by far, by f*** far!!! dont look at graphs. they are all the same. their company has opted not to do AMT for one single reason, AMT need to be directional and that doesnt leave space for installers to promote products at the end....its the reason why all of them make silk domes...ease of install...dont forget my advice on blam. its what i will get once i have figured out my system for the moment. and dont forget to make some custom aluminium rings with screw rivets etc, dont work with MDF. you got a big american truck that loves to flex although you wont notice. rigidity is key. there are plenty of results showing that just by dampening and stiffening the door you gain 6-7db in volume with the same stock factory speakers. i saw in the vid that you will go kick mount thats why i say work with rivets after the cutouts. i hope ure not too influenced from stagsaudio and pssound with their infinite baffle, kicks etc. sure its better. but its how they lure customers into their shops because not everyone has the balls to do that themselfes, and the quality is not extremely different from a properly well mounted hyperstiffened door. dont go floor for the speakers, but ad a super tiny front sub. hertz and jl flat subs are the best of the best. make the smallest enclosure the sub needs. way better investement in nerves and time compared to kicks. good luck. i watch your videos often when searching for hertz stuff. lol (didnt go hertz but went by getting dayton stuff until i do my big move to audiofrog/karma/blam stuff level, though i will buy hertz for my rear doors, a passive 2 way kit for some rear fill)
Gonna rise well above 6 ohms and be left with no power
@@ah4800I don’t want to run them full power just yet, my stock electrical won’t be able to handle it.. I have big 3 but need extra battery possibly upgrading alternator.. once I go back to JL audio amplifier I will give them full power
@SQ_Silverado check out the new limitless sodium batteries. They claim the 30ah supports 5000 watts on a 100 amp alt and they work with any other chemistry. No isolators or anything.