Seeing that it wasn’t structural I might have tried cast stick rods just for a better match but excellent job and nice to see a repair instead of throwing it away,we need more fixers in the world.
Right On Thanks! 🙌 That would be cool to match up the material. At first I was thinking silver solder, then I switched to brazing rod. Are you thinking cast arc welding rod? I know that could be possible with a heavy pre heat. Thanks for the comment! I am excited to get the drill press looking good. I’m working on the paint now.
@@RightOnJonCrane That correct a cast iron electric welding rod. As the holes were small and round cracking shouldn’t be a great issue and just taking the chill away should be enough. As I said an excellent job and keep up the good work from the U.K. 👍
@@RightOnJonCrane Hello again sorry I didn’t see your message, I live about 50 miles away from there just down the coast close to Whitby (Draculas supposed landing place)it’s a small world.
Right On Tony! 🙌 Thanks! I thought it was an interesting project as well. At first it was going to be part of the drill press restoration video but I thought this should be its own video. Glad you liked it. 🙌
Don't want to burst your bubble, but, check it on your cast iron or granite surface plate & watch what the print reveals. Lapping or scraping would improve surface finish & give you an accurate flat surface. Good to see you saving the classic machinery. We need to preserve history & remember the time when things were done right.
Right On! 🙌 Yes you are absolutely right. I’m sure I got close and it’s a lot better than the original. Scraping is the way to go. I could also go with a surface grinder and get pretty close. I know scraping can be extremely accurate!
I always enjoy a machining project Jon. That old table was probably never that flat. I cant wait to see the rest of this series. That press was made back when things actually had some quality! Right On Jon!! 👍✌🇺🇸
at 18:15, you could now go to an engine machine shop for a final effort at a clean-up pass. some of these guys have a 36" facing wheel with 15-20 teeth, that will clean that thing up to almost mirror finish. I had an aluminum cylinder head done and I was amazed at the effort my guy went through. the surface had an almost mirror surface. almost no visible swirls to be seen.
Right On! 🙌 Yeah that would be amazing! Would be great to have a big facing setup like that. I could see the original cut lines in the top. Must have been from a large fly cutter!
Right On Randy! 🙌 I think you’re right! I was debating whether or not to hit it with the random orbit. I’ve done it many times to my table saw table over the years when it’s gotten a little rust!
@@RightOnJonCrane It's not really. I've seen it before. I worked with, for the lack of a better term, a petty little bitch who was mad at the boss one day and took it out on the drill press and when I yelled at him he was already 1/4" deep with an 1 1/2" hole saw. I have no use for people who don't respect tools. It shows a major character flaw.
I own exactly that Walker-Turner drill press, that I bought very used. I thought I was stumped when dismantling it to find worn quill and pulley bearings that were non-standard types - with mixed metric and inch dimensions and with extended races. To my delight, I discovered I could buy the four new replacements, surprisingly affordable. I had them posted to me from Walker Turner Serviced Machinery in USA to Australia. Also, they are sealed, unlike the the originals. A great feature is the bevel geared table height adjustment, superior to the usual rack & pinion type as it's smoother and the table can be easily swung sideways. The hinged belt cover had a crack in it. It was ground to a Vee in preparation for welding. Another surprise - the grinding dust was sparkling when subject to the torch, the cover evidently made from a magnesium alloy. The drilling machine has been serving me well for many years and is always a delight to use. Not bad for a 1935 patent.
Thxs for sharing another detail oriented ( Detail-oriented means paying close attention to all the small details when working on a task or project. Detail-oriented people are meticulous in their work, and they aim for excellence in everything they do. They are able to break a big project down into small, detailed tasks, and may be able to see potential problems that are less obvious when looking at the big picture.) project well executed, glad to hear the word "ROSEBUD" mention also I enjoy your multi personalities that spice up your tutorials, very reminiscent of the drug and free love bygone era of the sixties more on that subject hopefully later...on your homefront I hope the shop Steward / aka Moma Kitty is doing well...WATCH YOUR TOP KNOT What does watch your top knot mean? Don't get scalped.
Right On Tom! 🙌 Yes, this was a big part of the drill press restoration. I thought I’d break it down and make this into a separate video. I’m glad I gave this part some good time and attention. I had fun making this video. That crazy guy with the hair in the beginning better watch his top knot! 😄 Mama kitty says hello! The queen of the shop!
That turned out great! Walker Turner is my favorite drill press company. I have an auto feed model 1100, a radial arm version, and a bench top model. I would recommend adding a vfd. I have a couple videos on my vfd drill presses, but Mr Pete's video is much better. Dave over at parts and restoration also has an excellent drill press overhaul video. Great stuff. Cheers
Right On Joe! 🙌 I was just thinking about ya! I have your hat hanging in my shop and of course a couple of those cool shiny stickers. The VFD would be pretty cool! I’ll take a look at your channel and get caught up. I have watched old Tubal Cain’s video on it. I’m not sure if I’ve seen Dave’s video. I’ll take a look at that too. Walker Turner is a favorite of mine as well. Good quality tools with some style! Hope all is great in Florida 🏝️🙌
Right On! 🙌 Yes, that’s a good idea. It would be interesting to open them up and rebuild them. I did buy a rebuild kit for the Airco cutting torch. That torch has seen a lot of use.
Right On! 🙌 I was thinking of that and I thought that was also subjective to the two bores in the head casting. I finally ended up taking a reading right from the original table top. I realize this is not the most accurate way but I imagine it will be close if not better than the original. I could have put everything back together and taken a reading with the indicator and gone from there. Hopefully I’m in the ballpark. ⚾️🙌
Right On! 🙌 I was thinking of that and I thought that was also subjective to the two bores in the head casting. I finally ended up taking a reading right from the original table top. I realize this is not the most accurate way but I imagine it will be close if not better than the original. I could have put everything back together and taken a reading with the indicator and gone from there. Hopefully I’m in the ballpark. ⚾️🙌
@@RightOnJonCrane good job on the restoration, I'm sure the perpendicularity is plenty good enough (when you are done with the full restoration, run a DTI in the spindle of the drill press, I would be curious how close to perfect you got in the end 🙂). At first I thought you would be filling in the hole saw marks as well. but removing a bit of surface works as well.
Should have indicated the bore to zero, shimmed the table, clamped and face milled the surface. Done, the head will be what it was but the table would be perpendicular. Should have brazed the hole saw tracks too. Thanks
Another way to approach filling holes in cast iron is metal epoxy (like jbweld). I've even mixed in ~60% (clean) cast iron chips so it performs more like the base metal. Clean steel chips worked too. It machines nicely after hardening, especially if annealed/fully cured at 50+C. Advantages: less work, tools and cost, and can visually blend in. Same: also requires going down to clean (and roughened up!) metal. Disadvantages: less strong (though in this application epoxy is plenty strong), lower hardness (if chips mix is not quite right).
Yes, that would be nice if there was enough thickness in the table. I know this production style table was meant for use with a hefty vise. Drilling, tapping, countersinking. Sometimes having a part in a vise and then moving the vise to another drill press.
Doing it this way takes the least material off the table. So, it's as stiff and thick as possible. However, doing the indicator routine once it's mounted to the post of the drill press will tell you how well you did. Of course, doing that first would have let you get this flat vs the spindle. However, I suspect you will be pretty close as you went to the average of what was there. Now, I just looked at my WT and the table clamps with a single point front center of the bore through the table. So, if you took a light pass through the bore, not looking to enlarge it, but offsetting it a few thousandths back you could true the bore to the new plane of the table. However,. that gets the table true to the post. It does NOT get the table true to the spindle. I'd not worry about it as a drill press is not ever going to be as accurate as a decent mill. So, even if the table is off a few thou, for anything that you'd do on the press it's going to be good enough. BTW, I've never seen a WT table like that. I'd mount a mason jar under the drain to collect oil. My original table had an arc of shame worse than this one. I managed to pick up a replacement table with only 4 drill points in it. Which I'm happy with. unless I happen to find one of the tables that tilts.
Right On! 🙌 I didn’t think to sandblast. That would be a good way to do it. With cast I’ve always gone over it with the carbide burr to expose some clean metal. Plus I don’t have a sand blast cabinet in my shop. That would be a nice tool to have. I do have a good powder coat shop nearby. They have a great one.
I wonder if a person could put something like this on a induction cooktop. To help preheat it? I was thinking about using a gas gril. Modify it with insulation in the id snd a heavy steel grate with legs going to the ground holdin the whole thing up. And a heat resistant banket making curtains to allow it to heat with the kid up. And hold the heat in. Maybe put a halogen light on the lid. Making braising jobs so easy. Then just shutoff the flame and cose it up when done letting it cool slowly.. without cool breezes warping anything. If a induction cooktop can pre heat a part easier that would be cool!
Your clamps are reverse of of the way it should be the pressures on the blocks not the milling part itself. One slip and it would fly or be chopped up.
Hi! 👋 I hear your concern but this is not the case. I have the hold downs very secure with even pressure on the blocks and on drill press table. I set up these types of operations on a daily basis. Right On! 🙌
It seems like that table is missing something. There is neither a way to drill holes in objects without drilling into the table(i.e. the standard hole in the center, which in this case the coolant bowl could have been located there), nor provisions to bolt down a drill press vise on it.
I love the way the braze highlights the repair. It tells a story, highlights the history of the object.
Right On! I like that. Thanks for sharing that thought!
I like to take all the inserts out, and put in one new insert for the finish pass. Essentially turning my face mill into a fly cutter
Ooh that’s interesting! That’s a cool idea. I will have to try that. Thanks for the tip! Right On! 🙌
Seeing that it wasn’t structural I might have tried cast stick rods just for a better match but excellent job and nice to see a repair instead of throwing it away,we need more fixers in the world.
Right On Thanks! 🙌 That would be cool to match up the material. At first I was thinking silver solder, then I switched to brazing rod. Are you thinking cast arc welding rod? I know that could be possible with a heavy pre heat.
Thanks for the comment! I am excited to get the drill press looking good. I’m working on the paint now.
@@RightOnJonCrane That correct a cast iron electric welding rod. As the holes were small and round cracking shouldn’t be a great issue and just taking the chill away should be enough. As I said an excellent job and keep up the good work from the U.K. 👍
@@leedale4008 Right on Lee! Thanks! I have some family in Consett. 🏴
@@RightOnJonCrane Hello again sorry I didn’t see your message, I live about 50 miles away from there just down the coast close to Whitby (Draculas supposed landing place)it’s a small world.
That was fun to watch and very interesting. Something I don’t see everyday. Thanks
Right On Tony! 🙌 Thanks! I thought it was an interesting project as well. At first it was going to be part of the drill press restoration video but I thought this should be its own video. Glad you liked it. 🙌
Don't want to burst your bubble, but, check it on your cast iron or granite surface plate & watch what the print reveals. Lapping or scraping would improve surface finish & give you an accurate flat surface. Good to see you saving the classic machinery. We need to preserve history & remember the time when things were done right.
+1 How about a video on scraping!
Right On! 🙌 Yes you are absolutely right. I’m sure I got close and it’s a lot better than the original. Scraping is the way to go. I could also go with a surface grinder and get pretty close. I know scraping can be extremely accurate!
Nice Work! - Great lookin drillpress!
Right On! 🙌 Thank ye kindly!! I’m excited to get it back together.
Excellent project Jon, at first I had to do a double take to see if I was on the right channel! 😂😂😂👍👍👍
Ha!! 😄😂 Right John!! I had to dock that guys pay who drilled into the table! It’s hard to find good help!!
I always enjoy a machining project Jon. That old table was probably never that flat. I cant wait to see the rest of this series. That press was made back when things actually had some quality! Right On Jon!! 👍✌🇺🇸
Right On Roger! 🙌 Yes indeed a quality piece of machinery! I couldn’t look at it anymore, looking all beat up. I’m glad to give it some TLC!
might go over that table with a liitle jb weld and a sandingboard to get the last scratches out , think that stuff will stick to the metal good enough
Right On! 🙌 That JB is strong stuff. I will have to experiment. I might sand it down first and see what it looks like.
Gonna be nice to have that drill press like new or likely better than new by time you get done with it.
Right On! 🙌 I’m excited too! I’m painting it now. My grandfather is excited too! 😄
at 18:15, you could now go to an engine machine shop for a final effort at a clean-up pass. some of these guys have a 36" facing wheel with 15-20 teeth, that will clean that thing up to almost mirror finish. I had an aluminum cylinder head done and I was amazed at the effort my guy went through. the surface had an almost mirror surface. almost no visible swirls to be seen.
Right On! 🙌 Yeah that would be amazing! Would be great to have a big facing setup like that. I could see the original cut lines in the top. Must have been from a large fly cutter!
Super nice job Jon on the resto. Hit it with the belt sander and Random orbit, make it super deluxe. Thanks for sharing well done.
Right On Randy! 🙌 I think you’re right! I was debating whether or not to hit it with the random orbit. I’ve done it many times to my table saw table over the years when it’s gotten a little rust!
I call that "The arc of shame"
Yes! That is surely what it is! The hole saw marks are mind boggling!! 😳
@@RightOnJonCrane It's not really. I've seen it before. I worked with, for the lack of a better term, a petty little bitch who was mad at the boss one day and took it out on the drill press and when I yelled at him he was already 1/4" deep with an 1 1/2" hole saw. I have no use for people who don't respect tools. It shows a major character flaw.
Watching in Blighty , good video.
Sadly we have people here too have drilled holes in so many of our classic drill presses shame on them ! 👍🏻
Indicate from the column so it is flat but also square.
I own exactly that Walker-Turner drill press, that I bought very used. I thought I was stumped when dismantling it to find worn quill and pulley bearings that were non-standard types - with mixed metric and inch dimensions and with extended races. To my delight, I discovered I could buy the four new replacements, surprisingly affordable. I had them posted to me from Walker Turner Serviced Machinery in USA to Australia. Also, they are sealed, unlike the the originals.
A great feature is the bevel geared table height adjustment, superior to the usual rack & pinion type as it's smoother and the table can be easily swung sideways.
The hinged belt cover had a crack in it. It was ground to a Vee in preparation for welding. Another surprise - the grinding dust was sparkling when subject to the torch, the cover evidently made from a magnesium alloy.
The drilling machine has been serving me well for many years and is always a delight to use. Not bad for a 1935 patent.
Thxs for sharing another detail oriented ( Detail-oriented means paying close attention to all the small details when working on a task or project. Detail-oriented people are meticulous in their work, and they aim for excellence in everything they do. They are able to break a big project down into small, detailed tasks, and may be able to see potential problems that are less obvious when looking at the big picture.) project well executed, glad to hear the word "ROSEBUD" mention also I enjoy your multi personalities that spice up your tutorials, very reminiscent of the drug and free love bygone era of the sixties more on that subject hopefully later...on your homefront I hope the shop Steward / aka Moma Kitty is doing well...WATCH YOUR TOP KNOT What does watch your top knot mean? Don't get scalped.
Right On Tom! 🙌 Yes, this was a big part of the drill press restoration. I thought I’d break it down and make this into a separate video. I’m glad I gave this part some good time and attention. I had fun making this video. That crazy guy with the hair in the beginning better watch his top knot! 😄 Mama kitty says hello! The queen of the shop!
@@RightOnJonCrane where does your sense of comedy come from? perhaps your Dad, your Hippie/60's style hits home here...GOD SAVE THE QUEEN
I mig welded mine came out great 👍
Right On! 🙌 That’s cool!
thank you Jon
Right On! 🙌 Thanks, I appreciate the feedback!!
Gotta love those mean slivers from the carbide burr. Maybe not so much.
Not too bad with the cast iron. They seem to turn into powder quickly. But that burr is aggressive!
That turned out great! Walker Turner is my favorite drill press company. I have an auto feed model 1100, a radial arm version, and a bench top model. I would recommend adding a vfd. I have a couple videos on my vfd drill presses, but Mr Pete's video is much better. Dave over at parts and restoration also has an excellent drill press overhaul video. Great stuff. Cheers
Right On Joe! 🙌 I was just thinking about ya! I have your hat hanging in my shop and of course a couple of those cool shiny stickers.
The VFD would be pretty cool! I’ll take a look at your channel and get caught up. I have watched old Tubal Cain’s video on it. I’m not sure if I’ve seen Dave’s video. I’ll take a look at that too. Walker Turner is a favorite of mine as well. Good quality tools with some style! Hope all is great in Florida 🏝️🙌
Good Stuff Mr. Jon!! I had hair like that once upon a time...lol
Right On Big Vic! 🙌 Ha! My hair is getting shorter all the time!
I’m working on my Jeremiah Johnson bear head hat! 🐻
7:57 take the gauge apart and clean it. Do not lubricate it during reassembly.
Right On! 🙌 Yes, that’s a good idea. It would be interesting to open them up and rebuild them. I did buy a rebuild kit for the Airco cutting torch. That torch has seen a lot of use.
Did you happen to check the plane of the table face to the axis of the vertical guide post hole? Just curious.
Yes! 🙌 It was very close! Not perfect but close!
@@RightOnJonCrane The bore should have been perfect, every hole will be close?
Did you consider setting the table by using the pedestal bore?
Right On! 🙌 I was thinking of that and I thought that was also subjective to the two bores in the head casting. I finally ended up taking a reading right from the original table top. I realize this is not the most accurate way but I imagine it will be close if not better than the original. I could have put everything back together and taken a reading with the indicator and gone from there. Hopefully I’m in the ballpark. ⚾️🙌
isn't the mounting hole (back pole) the reference? (IOW make the hole vertical in 2 axis?)
Right On! 🙌 I was thinking of that and I thought that was also subjective to the two bores in the head casting. I finally ended up taking a reading right from the original table top. I realize this is not the most accurate way but I imagine it will be close if not better than the original. I could have put everything back together and taken a reading with the indicator and gone from there. Hopefully I’m in the ballpark. ⚾️🙌
@@RightOnJonCrane good job on the restoration, I'm sure the perpendicularity is plenty good enough (when you are done with the full restoration, run a DTI in the spindle of the drill press, I would be curious how close to perfect you got in the end 🙂). At first I thought you would be filling in the hole saw marks as well. but removing a bit of surface works as well.
Should have indicated the bore to zero, shimmed the table, clamped and face milled the surface. Done, the head will be what it was but the table would be perpendicular. Should have brazed the hole saw tracks too. Thanks
.
Another way to approach filling holes in cast iron is metal epoxy (like jbweld). I've even mixed in ~60% (clean) cast iron chips so it performs more like the base metal. Clean steel chips worked too. It machines nicely after hardening, especially if annealed/fully cured at 50+C. Advantages: less work, tools and cost, and can visually blend in. Same: also requires going down to clean (and roughened up!) metal. Disadvantages: less strong (though in this application epoxy is plenty strong), lower hardness (if chips mix is not quite right).
Right On! 🙌 That’s a good tip! Interesting to mix in some metal chips / dust with it. JB weld gets rock hard!
adding t-slots into the table would have had been nice?
Yes, that would be nice if there was enough thickness in the table. I know this production style table was meant for use with a hefty vise. Drilling, tapping, countersinking. Sometimes having a part in a vise and then moving the vise to another drill press.
The standard WT tables have a couple of slots to mount a vise or fixture. This one is optimized for collecting cutting oil or coolant.
So is now the time to worry about how the new table plane corresponds to the mounting bore?
Right On! 🙌 Yes, I did think about that. I feel good taking the average of where the table has always been. I hear ya though! Time will tell!
@@RightOnJonCrane damn just now dawns on me I think this is the second time I’ve trolled you.. sorry
Doing it this way takes the least material off the table. So, it's as stiff and thick as possible. However, doing the indicator routine once it's mounted to the post of the drill press will tell you how well you did. Of course, doing that first would have let you get this flat vs the spindle.
However, I suspect you will be pretty close as you went to the average of what was there.
Now, I just looked at my WT and the table clamps with a single point front center of the bore through the table. So, if you took a light pass through the bore, not looking to enlarge it, but offsetting it a few thousandths back you could true the bore to the new plane of the table. However,. that gets the table true to the post. It does NOT get the table true to the spindle.
I'd not worry about it as a drill press is not ever going to be as accurate as a decent mill. So, even if the table is off a few thou, for anything that you'd do on the press it's going to be good enough.
BTW, I've never seen a WT table like that. I'd mount a mason jar under the drain to collect oil. My original table had an arc of shame worse than this one. I managed to pick up a replacement table with only 4 drill points in it. Which I'm happy with. unless I happen to find one of the tables that tilts.
I wonder if they could make a brazing rod that would look like cast iron
I think they do! I’ll have to ask my welding buddy who does cast iron.
I'm curious why you wouldn't sandblast it instead of grinding on it?
Right On! 🙌 I didn’t think to sandblast. That would be a good way to do it. With cast I’ve always gone over it with the carbide burr to expose some clean metal. Plus I don’t have a sand blast cabinet in my shop. That would be a nice tool to have. I do have a good powder coat shop nearby. They have a great one.
I wonder if a person could put something like this on a induction cooktop. To help preheat it? I was thinking about using a gas gril. Modify it with insulation in the id snd a heavy steel grate with legs going to the ground holdin the whole thing up. And a heat resistant banket making curtains to allow it to heat with the kid up. And hold the heat in. Maybe put a halogen light on the lid. Making braising jobs so easy. Then just shutoff the flame and cose it up when done letting it cool slowly.. without cool breezes warping anything. If a induction cooktop can pre heat a part easier that would be cool!
That sounds like a great plan! Yeah something with a lid to close up and walk away. Right On! 🙌
"Didn't put enough dirt down..........seen it right off"
The big belt in the blue has beaver the size of bobcat! 🦫
Mr. Wig did it..i saw it..😮
Satisfying 19:00
Right On Lukas! 🙌 Getting that table looking nice!
Your clamps are reverse of of the way it should be the pressures on the blocks not the milling part itself. One slip and it would fly or be chopped up.
Hi! 👋 I hear your concern but this is not the case. I have the hold downs very secure with even pressure on the blocks and on drill press table. I set up these types of operations on a daily basis. Right On! 🙌
Not having the equipment, nor any experience in using it, I simply filled mine with JB Weld...
It seems like that table is missing something. There is neither a way to drill holes in objects without drilling into the table(i.e. the standard hole in the center, which in this case the coolant bowl could have been located there), nor provisions to bolt down a drill press vise on it.
Watch yourn!
Right On! 🙌 Bear Claw! 🐻
Why buy a fly cutter when you could make one?
Wouldn't it be cheaper to make one and then you can build it EXACTLY how you want it...
Of Course you made sure that it was an exact 90 degree between to machine mast and the table surface