It’s been a while since I was paid to weld. But I would have put in a root pass with 6010 (6011? Yeah it’s been a minute) rod and capped it with a few 7018 passes. I’ve also witnessed by dad straightening out I Beams that were warped like that by Laing down welds in a particular pattern to draw the steel back to straight. Never knew how he did it but it was frickin magic to see. Keep up the good work!
MIG is a poor choice for structural work. Stick or flux core would have been better. being on the west coast, he is in an earthquake zone so 7018 all the way or dual shield are probably the code for a beam splice.
@@peetky8645 Beat me to it. I'n not a pro welder but I wouldn't trust my life to a MIG butt weld. Stick all the way with a gusset plate reinforcing the joint
@@4110mahindra MIG is a short circuit process, hence the bacon noise. MIG is never used in structural welding because of limited penetration and a discontinuous arc. Duals Shield Process is not MIG, it is FCAWg. Stick, FCAWg and FCAWs are the only code structural processes in the USA.
When I was a young man, my uncle was trying to teach me how to sight a wall while performing plumb and line of a building. He was running the braces on a particular wall while I was sighting it. As I was being wishy washy about whether the wall was straight or not, his patience ran thin and he shouted- "if it looks straight, it is straight! At that moment, learned what straight was. I never questioned my ability to know straight again...Well, until my eyesight was not young any more. Thanks for another insightful video.
Just love "hanging out" in the shop watching new and outside the "normal box" projects on a rainy day! Excited to see what that new beams task will be!!!!!!
Cut the end of of the wire and crimp a new end with a 3 inch extension. Let it loop on the inside, install a new spade connector, and zip tie the loop in a position that won't pull out. If you don't want to extend the wire, use a pair of pliers to squeeze the terminal closed, then force it onto its spot. Then zip tie it to something more secure. Those connectors tend to spread with cycles of heat and time, you can pinch them, or replace them to make a better connection.
Scott, since the hoist is pulled by the chain and the wiring, it's probable that the neutral wire is cut a bit short (likely from replacing the spade terminal at some time). If it were me, I would make up a short 3 inch extension, with spade terminals on both ends (1 male, one female) and install that on to the neutral wire (white wire), wrapping it with either heat shrink tubing or electrical tape at those new connections. You can get those spade terminals as a locking terminal if the male connector has a hole in it, that work really really well in a tension or vibration environment. The trick with the old sandblaster for a cooling gun is absolute gold. I'm stealing that one from you and Jon! Thank you for the knowledge sharing! Even us old dogs can learn new tricks!
Good morning, I love watching your videos. I work with my hands and mind everyday also, sometimes with my hands more than my mind. Add a short piece of wire to that white wire to take the strain from it. As someone who works with steel on a regular basis it always amazes me how far the tiniest bit of heat will move a steal. Have a blessed day.
Scott, try a steel mesh style strain relief with the cable connector. Should be able to thread in or with the lock nut go into your motor housing. You definitely need more relief for your motor control drop. Love the channel. 👍👍
Another great video from EC. When metal is locally heated up to, say, red hot two things happen to the hot spot: the compressive strength decreases and the hot spot tries to expand. Put these two together and the hot spot fails in compression so that when the hot spot metal cools it is smaller and pulls hard on all the metal around it. Careful use of this fact allows bending or straightening of any metal object.
Very cool. I work for a steel bridge girder fabricator. We use similar techniques for heat-curving or straightening steel girders. I no longer work in production, but I've spent hours heating at strategic locations along the girder to reach design tolerances. Nice job in the winter!!
I still think that process is as close to magic as you can get as an engineer/craftsman, and I say that as a retired toolmaker and design engineer. The time lapse footage was especially interesting.
Good job straighting the I- beam , heating in triangle and cooling is a good way , and the air / water mist is a idea I have not done yet but will next time . Welding a bead will also draw the metal smaller , that is done on mobile home frames on top to put some up bend in the frame so when the structural load is on it the it will be some where near straight . I had to straighten a heavy equipment trailer I was building , that got pulled out of flat from cutting out a and welding in a bottom plate to make room for the axles , the welding drawed the the beam down at rear of the trailer , did not see this until we turned the frame right side up and seen what had happened and did it nearly the same way to fix the problem , a old black smith told us how to heat and cool it . Got it nearly straight said that was good enough , loaded many big pieces of heavy equipment on that trailer for decades and it never bent , but always put blocks under the tail of the trailer when loading that takes that over the axle bending force out of loading. Must have been strong enough a the first time we load the 9 ton back hoe we did not use blocks under the tail and it actually lifted the wheels of the single axle dump truck off the ground 30 feet from the back of the trailer when backhoe drove on , always used blocks after that , even had a third air pusher axle added later to haul a 21 ton JD 750 track loader .
I think EC is one of the most entertaining and educational channel on TH-cam. You’ll think the subject matter won’t interest you till you’re hooked watching it. Thank you!
I'm not a welder!! Apparently my short term memory stinks. I always learn something from your videos when I actually get a chance to watch videos. Thank you. I am good at what I do and I will keep doing what I do. Good night and thanks.
Concerning your white wire just take your pliers and squeeze that connector a little bit to make it fit tighter on the lug. Or if you want to Make a permanent fix cut the connector off and solder the wire to the lug. Great video keep em coming!
I have a friend that can do that. He just uses air cooling, does other things during that time. No beam is straight from the mill, in most applications they are good enough. But some times they have to be straight within less than 1/8 of an inch. So you take a torch and straighten it.
It was "The end of November, and I'd been walking around the uninstalled vehicle lift in my shop since 2014... I fixed that problem too Eric. Thanks for the informative bender vid
@johnadolph4094, more of your vast knowledge put to good use fella! @Scott, regarding your overhead winch - just put a cable-tie in the inside part (inside the housing) of the anti-strain boot and it will stop the pull-out. And do yourself a favour and squash the male blade connector with a pair of plyers, to give it a bit more grip tension, so its not as loose. kind regards Spen
For the lift, Looks like making the white wire a little longer and snugging up the spade terminal with pliers. For the beam, Probably a good idea to gusset that butt joint weld with some strapping on the both sides of the web and top and bottom of the flange. Especially since it will likely be the center of the span and highest stress area
Polishing the Opal. I like that. I hope you don't mind if I start using that. Cause I'm gonna. And I will tell where I heard it. Thank you Scott for all that you share with us. Keep up the good work!!
The crane controller needs to hang from a cable, something like 1/8” braided cable, swaged, eyelets, to isolate the electrical wires from the pulling around of the hoist, the electric wire gets a little “relief “ up by the hoist, slight bend or loop, then the wires don’t get jerked loose
Sir, I loved the opal reference. Yeah, me too sometimes over do things in search of perfection. Another say I adapted for that matter:"Good enuff for the girls I go out with". Works every time. And I too inagined You pulling out an old tombstone buzz box- something that way. I try to learn stick and go with that. Good enuff… Merry Christmas!!
Well, the very simple and easy fix for that White wire connector is to just use a set of pliers, and crimp it closed a bit. It will create a tighter friction fit, and not come loose as easily. Pretty easy "Non-Electrician" fix, if you ask me!! 🤣😂😉 Keep up the great work!
Just lightly pinch each edge of the blade connector on the end of the white wire. Not enough to close the gaps.. just a handshake squeeze. I repaired professionally. This is all you need.
A better wire choice for welding would have been E71T-1 flux core with gas. (aka dual shield) Usually used is .045. Change feed roll, liner, and contact tip. Much better structural wire. Basically 7018 in a mig wire. Also, can you put a plate across the splice? Would be perfect application for using a magnetic drill. Keep up the good work....!!
On your crane, use some small cable or chain to hang your pendant from that is a little shorter than the cord. That way if you pull on the pendant the cable or chain is taking the strain instead of the cord. We have a bunch of cranes where I work and that’s how we set them up.
You can squeeze those crimps with pliers just a bit to give them a better grip. Probably have to get the plastic insulator off first. Or put a new crimp on. You can get one of those mesh strain reliefs and install pretty easily. Just unhook the wire, replace the fitting that goes through the hole, and put the wire back in. Pay attention to the wire and hole diameter when you buy it, there are different sizes. You can get them from supplyhouse, or I'm sure somewhere local.
Regarding the white wire unplugging on the hoist - Drill a small hole through the connectors, with it plugged, and then "twist tie" it with a short piece of copper wire.
You could add a pigtail to the connector wire that keeps coming loose. Make a new spade connector piece a couple inches or so and add new male and female ends and connected in place so it doesn't get yanked out again.
if you had some big pieces of chanel you can tack that on the opposite side as your welding and itll help keep it from drawing on you so much. i used to do that and it worked for me .
You probably got that thing straightened to within the allowable steel mill tolerances, which are pretty loose. My bigger concern is welding two beam sections together. I'm a structural engineer, not a welder--but I know you need to consider a lot of stuff like pre-heating the steel in order to get a weld you'd stake your life on..
That grinder looks like a old Black and Decker , those were the best grinder,s ever made , very heavy and very powerful and and will run for ever if not over heated from over load , as in running a 14" diamond saw to cut blocks in the summer heat . They were made in to different rpm speeds I have found out . I now own three of them that runs fine and one is just like new , looks like it maybe was only used a few times. All the old welder,s said that these were the best ever made .
I wonder if you could splice in a bit of wire onto that connector that keeps coming loose to give it a little extra room to move around without blade connector coming off.
I feel like if you're using that for any type of loading application without support, I'd plate those flats on the splice if it won't interfere with your end goal.
Simple fix to the crane. Cut loose connector off and replace with a new tight one. Then a thick zip strip where power cord feeds inside housing and zip strip right outside the housing. Like a rubber grommet without the rubber or grommet 🤔🙄 Retired Veteran here making quick or possibly long term fix to complete the mission. Have a good one 👍
They make a thing for the wire on the crane that is like a Chinese finger trap that will grab onto about the first foot of cord coming out of the crane i have a few of them that I will give you, I'm sorry I can't remember what they're called actually, I used to be an electrician helper and they were just some stuff that I have that was going to be thrown away
5/16 deviation across 40' is not bad at all. I'd be pretty chuffed with myself as well, Scott. If a 62' stick of rail with a 5" deviation can keep a 400,000lb locomotive moving in a straight line, then I reckon this will work just fine for what you have planned.
Hard to be sure from a video, but those wires look like 10 ga. 10/3 SOOW (rubber jacketed power cord like that) is about 3.00 a foot at Home depot. so $30 for a 10 ft length, more than enough to rewire that control switch (looks like maybe 8 ft at the most. ) Leave plenty of extra in the wires between the strain relief and the terminals so you're not pulling on the terminals. Should be well within the capabilities of a reasonably capable non-electrician
I would just put a loop in that cable and zip-tie the top of that, rather than relying on friction in the vertical. Also squeeze that spade connector slightly tighter with pliers
Hate to say this but MIG is not a good option for this unless you are doing spray transfer. If you were not doing spray transfer, it would be best to cut it apart and stick weld it with 7018.
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It’s been a while since I was paid to weld. But I would have put in a root pass with 6010 (6011? Yeah it’s been a minute) rod and capped it with a few 7018 passes.
I’ve also witnessed by dad straightening out I Beams that were warped like that by Laing down welds in a particular pattern to draw the steel back to straight. Never knew how he did it but it was frickin magic to see.
Keep up the good work!
MIG is a poor choice for structural work. Stick or flux core would have been better. being on the west coast, he is in an earthquake zone so 7018 all the way or dual shield are probably the code for a beam splice.
Guessing you are a 60+ yr old welder. Mig is often used in structural today. Especially flux core with cover gas.
@@peetky8645 Beat me to it. I'n not a pro welder but I wouldn't trust my life to a MIG butt weld. Stick all the way with a gusset plate reinforcing the joint
@@4110mahindra MIG is a short circuit process, hence the bacon noise. MIG is never used in structural welding because of limited penetration and a discontinuous arc. Duals Shield Process is not MIG, it is FCAWg. Stick, FCAWg and FCAWs are the only code structural processes in the USA.
@@rubencantu5067 Great idea. A nice fish plate on both sides would be prudent since the weld is MIG....
I loved the opal story. So aplicable to many things in life.
Yes, indeed it is.
When I was a young man, my uncle was trying to teach me how to sight a wall while performing plumb and line of a building. He was running the braces on a particular wall while I was sighting it. As I was being wishy washy about whether the wall was straight or not, his patience ran thin and he shouted- "if it looks straight, it is straight!
At that moment, learned what straight was. I never questioned my ability to know straight again...Well, until my eyesight was not young any more.
Thanks for another insightful video.
Just love "hanging out" in the shop watching new and outside the "normal box" projects on a rainy day! Excited to see what that new beams task will be!!!!!!
Cut the end of of the wire and crimp a new end with a 3 inch extension. Let it loop on the inside, install a new spade connector, and zip tie the loop in a position that won't pull out.
If you don't want to extend the wire, use a pair of pliers to squeeze the terminal closed, then force it onto its spot. Then zip tie it to something more secure. Those connectors tend to spread with cycles of heat and time, you can pinch them, or replace them to make a better connection.
Scott, since the hoist is pulled by the chain and the wiring, it's probable that the neutral wire is cut a bit short (likely from replacing the spade terminal at some time). If it were me, I would make up a short 3 inch extension, with spade terminals on both ends (1 male, one female) and install that on to the neutral wire (white wire), wrapping it with either heat shrink tubing or electrical tape at those new connections. You can get those spade terminals as a locking terminal if the male connector has a hole in it, that work really really well in a tension or vibration environment.
The trick with the old sandblaster for a cooling gun is absolute gold. I'm stealing that one from you and Jon! Thank you for the knowledge sharing! Even us old dogs can learn new tricks!
GOOD TO SEE YOU WORKING INSIDE YOUR SHOP, GOOD WINTER WORK, THANK YOU.
Good morning, I love watching your videos. I work with my hands and mind everyday also, sometimes with my hands more than my mind. Add a short piece of wire to that white wire to take the strain from it. As someone who works with steel on a regular basis it always amazes me how far the tiniest bit of heat will move a steal. Have a blessed day.
Scott, try a steel mesh style strain relief with the cable connector. Should be able to thread in or with the lock nut go into your motor housing. You definitely need more relief for your motor control drop. Love the channel. 👍👍
Kellems grip if you want to search it
Another great video from EC.
When metal is locally heated up to, say, red hot two things happen to the hot spot: the compressive strength decreases and the hot spot tries to expand. Put these two together and the hot spot fails in compression so that when the hot spot metal cools it is smaller and pulls hard on all the metal around it. Careful use of this fact allows bending or straightening of any metal object.
Very cool. I work for a steel bridge girder fabricator. We use similar techniques for heat-curving or straightening steel girders. I no longer work in production, but I've spent hours heating at strategic locations along the girder to reach design tolerances. Nice job in the winter!!
Just your average day Shrinking and welding a 40 foot I Beam in the average workshop ...... Thx for sharing this story and journey ....
You Sir are the fabric of America
Love your work! G'day from Australia 🇦🇺
I still think that process is as close to magic as you can get as an engineer/craftsman, and I say that as a retired toolmaker and design engineer. The time lapse footage was especially interesting.
Good job straighting the I- beam , heating in triangle and cooling is a good way , and the air / water mist is a idea I have not done yet but will next time .
Welding a bead will also draw the metal smaller , that is done on mobile home frames on top to put some up bend in the frame so when the structural load is on it the it will be some where near straight .
I had to straighten a heavy equipment trailer I was building , that got pulled out of flat from cutting out a and welding in a bottom plate to make room for the axles , the welding drawed the the beam down at rear of the trailer , did not see this until we turned the frame right side up and seen what had happened and did it nearly the same way to fix the problem , a old black smith told us how to heat and cool it .
Got it nearly straight said that was good enough , loaded many big pieces of heavy equipment on that trailer for decades and it never bent , but always put blocks under the tail of the trailer when loading that takes that over the axle bending force out of loading.
Must have been strong enough a the first time we load the 9 ton back hoe we did not use blocks under the tail and it actually lifted the wheels of the single axle dump truck off the ground 30 feet from the back of the trailer when backhoe drove on , always used blocks after that , even had a third air pusher axle added later to haul a 21 ton JD 750 track loader .
I think EC is one of the most entertaining and educational channel on TH-cam.
You’ll think the subject matter won’t interest you till you’re hooked watching it.
Thank you!
"Stop polishing the opal"... in my business, we had an analogous saying: "Better" is the enemy of "good enough." Well done!
I'm not a welder!! Apparently my short term memory stinks. I always learn something from your videos when I actually get a chance to watch videos. Thank you. I am good at what I do and I will keep doing what I do. Good night and thanks.
Concerning your white wire just take your pliers and squeeze that connector a little bit to make it fit tighter on the lug. Or if you want to Make a permanent fix cut the connector off and solder the wire to the lug. Great video keep em coming!
I have a friend that can do that. He just uses air cooling, does other things during that time. No beam is straight from the mill, in most applications they are good enough. But some times they have to be straight within less than 1/8 of an inch. So you take a torch and straighten it.
It was "The end of November, and I'd been walking around the uninstalled vehicle lift in my shop since 2014... I fixed that problem too Eric.
Thanks for the informative bender vid
Simply amazing
@johnadolph4094, more of your vast knowledge put to good use fella!
@Scott, regarding your overhead winch - just put a cable-tie in the inside part (inside the housing) of the anti-strain boot and it will stop the pull-out. And do yourself a favour and squash the male blade connector with a pair of plyers, to give it a bit more grip tension, so its not as loose.
kind regards
Spen
I was going to suggest squishing the blade n that too. would help the pulling on it.
Great job. Thank you 😊
I've over-polished an "opal" a few times, it's something that must be learned and can't be taught.
thank youbGod bless you!
For the lift, Looks like making the white wire a little longer and snugging up the spade terminal with pliers.
For the beam, Probably a good idea to gusset that butt joint weld with some strapping on the both sides of the web and top and bottom of the flange. Especially since it will likely be the center of the span and highest stress area
Polishing the Opal. I like that. I hope you don't mind if I start using that. Cause I'm gonna. And I will tell where I heard it. Thank you Scott for all that you share with us. Keep up the good work!!
The crane controller needs to hang from a cable, something like 1/8” braided cable, swaged, eyelets, to isolate the electrical wires from the pulling around of the hoist, the electric wire gets a little “relief “ up by the hoist, slight bend or loop, then the wires don’t get jerked loose
Sir, I loved the opal reference. Yeah, me too sometimes over do things in search of perfection. Another say I adapted for that matter:"Good enuff for the girls I go out with".
Works every time. And I too inagined You pulling out an old tombstone buzz box- something that way. I try to learn stick and go with that. Good enuff…
Merry Christmas!!
Well, the very simple and easy fix for that White wire connector is to just use a set of pliers, and crimp it closed a bit. It will create a tighter friction fit, and not come loose as easily. Pretty easy "Non-Electrician" fix, if you ask me!! 🤣😂😉 Keep up the great work!
Just lightly pinch each edge of the blade connector on the end of the white wire. Not enough to close the gaps.. just a handshake squeeze.
I repaired professionally. This is all you need.
Great video today. Great thoughts on the opal.
This world needs more people like Cy Swan …AND YOU!😊
thxs for sharing...
A better wire choice for welding would have been E71T-1 flux core with gas. (aka dual shield) Usually used is .045. Change feed roll, liner, and contact tip. Much better structural wire. Basically 7018 in a mig wire. Also, can you put a plate across the splice? Would be perfect application for using a magnetic drill. Keep up the good work....!!
Concerning the white wire in the hoist: I wouldn't change anything, otherwise the next time the crane breaks you won't know what the cause is. 😆
Good! Thanks.
There is a book Lincoln Arc Welding Procedure Handbook you should have in your arsenal! It has a excellent section on flame straightening and bending.
On your crane, use some small cable or chain to hang your pendant from that is a little shorter than the cord. That way if you pull on the pendant the cable or chain is taking the strain instead of the cord. We have a bunch of cranes where I work and that’s how we set them up.
good idea
You can squeeze those crimps with pliers just a bit to give them a better grip. Probably have to get the plastic insulator off first. Or put a new crimp on.
You can get one of those mesh strain reliefs and install pretty easily. Just unhook the wire, replace the fitting that goes through the hole, and put the wire back in. Pay attention to the wire and hole diameter when you buy it, there are different sizes. You can get them from supplyhouse, or I'm sure somewhere local.
Regarding the white wire unplugging on the hoist - Drill a small hole through the connectors, with it plugged, and then "twist tie" it with a short piece of copper wire.
Good episode
You could add a pigtail to the connector wire that keeps coming loose. Make a new spade connector piece a couple inches or so and add new male and female ends and connected in place so it doesn't get yanked out again.
if you had some big pieces of chanel you can tack that on the opposite side as your welding and itll help keep it from drawing on you so much. i used to do that and it worked for me .
Yes, please show us where you are going to install this beam!! Thank You..KUTGW
For the hoist, you could cut the female end off the wire then add a short piece of wire to the end and put a new female end on.
You probably got that thing straightened to within the allowable steel mill tolerances, which are pretty loose. My bigger concern is welding two beam sections together. I'm a structural engineer, not a welder--but I know you need to consider a lot of stuff like pre-heating the steel in order to get a weld you'd stake your life on..
Squeeze in the tabs on that spade connector a little and it will grip more.
That grinder looks like a old Black and Decker , those were the best grinder,s ever made , very heavy and very powerful and and will run for ever if not over heated from over load , as in running a 14" diamond saw to cut blocks in the summer heat .
They were made in to different rpm speeds I have found out .
I now own three of them that runs fine and one is just like new , looks like it maybe was only used a few times.
All the old welder,s said that these were the best ever made .
Nothing Black & Decker was EVER the best of ANYTHING. What a clown.
I wonder if you could splice in a bit of wire onto that connector that keeps coming loose to give it a little extra room to move around without blade connector coming off.
I feel like if you're using that for any type of loading application without support, I'd plate those flats on the splice if it won't interfere with your end goal.
I love me some good Brigid clamps i got a few from my late grandfather and they are damn strong
Bendin with Bendon would have been a huge help.😅
Is that Fisher woodstove? If so, you ought to do a video on it. They are from Oregon after all.
Washington State Department of Transportation uses heat straightening to repair damaged bridges in place.
Can you extend the length of the white wire and add a loop so it’s not taking stress during flexing?
Simple fix to the crane. Cut loose connector off and replace with a new tight one. Then a thick zip strip where power cord feeds inside housing and zip strip right outside the housing. Like a rubber grommet without the rubber or grommet 🤔🙄 Retired Veteran here making quick or possibly long term fix to complete the mission. Have a good one 👍
Get a nice Chinese finger trap cord grip to hang that hoist pendant and you won't have to worry about pulling wires out ever again.
Usually, once bent, there is no getting back to perfectly straight
They make a thing for the wire on the crane that is like a Chinese finger trap that will grab onto about the first foot of cord coming out of the crane i have a few of them that I will give you, I'm sorry I can't remember what they're called actually, I used to be an electrician helper and they were just some stuff that I have that was going to be thrown away
when working on metal i cant help but try to be a mini John Adolf too.
"Pound to fit, paint to match"
Is that a kudu's mount in the back?
5/16 deviation across 40' is not bad at all. I'd be pretty chuffed with myself as well, Scott. If a 62' stick of rail with a 5" deviation can keep a 400,000lb locomotive moving in a straight line, then I reckon this will work just fine for what you have planned.
Hard to be sure from a video, but those wires look like 10 ga. 10/3 SOOW (rubber jacketed power cord like that) is about 3.00 a foot at Home depot. so $30 for a 10 ft length, more than enough to rewire that control switch (looks like maybe 8 ft at the most. ) Leave plenty of extra in the wires between the strain relief and the terminals so you're not pulling on the terminals. Should be well within the capabilities of a reasonably capable non-electrician
Maybe a little hot melt glue to keep the loose connection in place..
On your hoist…..remove the blue plastic on female end and solder it to the male terminal
I would just put a loop in that cable and zip-tie the top of that, rather than relying on friction in the vertical. Also squeeze that spade connector slightly tighter with pliers
pinch the connector to give more friction, or hell, solder that thang in place
But do you really need a 40 foot I-Beam to build your new work bench ? a 30 foot beam might be best !
Easier to accurately straighten a longer length of something than a shorter one.
@ oh Yes I do agree… but he has said how he was going his new fancy work bench ! Apparently this I-Beam is the new thing to do
@@diverdave4056 absolutely no clue what you tried to say there.
Enjoy the videos.
Be happy.
Cheers!
run the white spade on the inside of the red wire hoop instead of the outside.......
Hate to say this but MIG is not a good option for this unless you are doing spray transfer. If you were not doing spray transfer, it would be best to cut it apart and stick weld it with 7018.
What's the beam being used for?
he is in an earthquake zone so 7018 all the way or Dual shield flux core would like be code for a beam splice.
Can we get a structural engineer to tell us that joining two beams with a weld will still meet spec?
I’d really suggest joining those beams with a “Z” joint. Much strong then a butt joint
The old Law of diminishing returns will rear it's ugly head. Great vid.
You need a white wire stretcher 😂
Squeeze that female connector with pliers on your crane. It will help it bite
You too
take a pair of pliers and crimp the connection ? .............
For no reason at all I asked Google, and due to the curvature of the Earth your level will be off by 0.0000008 inches. You're welcome.
this guy is no ironworker. he’s too soft.
Eric!!!! Welcome back! We missed you!
Sort of…
Thanks for the nice video. We all know that the digital market is creating a different revolution in the world economy. I make up to $45,000 per week trading in the digital market. Having a job now doesn't seem to guarantee complete financial stability. Instead, having multiple sources of income that don't depend on the government.
I don't really blame people who panic. Lack of information can be a big hurdle. I've been making more than $21k passively by just going into crypto investment, and I don't have to do much work. Inflation or no inflation, my finances remain secure. So I really don't blame people who panic.
I would really love to know how much work you did put in to get to this stage
As a beginner in this, it's essential for you to have a mentor to keep you accountable. Latricia Hammonds is my trade analyst, she has guided me to identify key market trends, pinpointed strategic entry points, and provided risk assessments, ensuring my trades decisions align with market dynamics for optimal returns.
Latricia Hammonds Services has really set the standard for others to follow, we love her here in Canada 🇨🇦 as she has been really helpful and changed lots of life's
I'm favoured, 90K every week! I can now give back to the locals in my communities and also support God's work and the church. God bless America,, thank you Mrs Latricia Hammonds😊🎉