I did the 3G swap on my 86 F250. It's pretty mandatory that you run the new 4 gauge minimum charge wire to the battery. Those tiny factory wires will melt eventually. if you run high amperage through them for any period of time. The stock 2G is 65 amps in most cases. I sure don't miss mine!
I used a red 4 gauge wire coming from the alternator, put a 125 amp AMG inline with the rubberized bussman fuse holder. Then another red 4 gauge cable from the other end of the fuse to the starter side of the fender mounted starter relay. Works great. Nothing ever gets hot.
THANK YOU! I went to upgrade my worn 75A for a 130A...had the hardest time figuring out what to do with the second connector. This is everything I needed.
i have a 94 f150 with 300 i 6 this video just answered so many questions a mechanic shop couldn't. i need to upgrade my set up due to the large stereo system . i am on my 4th alternator i keep catching them on fire im now running a 110 amp from stock 75 stock 90 and second 110 i can't do a big 3 wire upgrade with what i have and looking into a 250 amp or bigger just didn't know how to install it . my truck isn't nothing special but is different my stereo system is in the cap through back window just need to get the power to it so its stable voltage i do have some vids up and on the power cap meters you can see the voltage drop and that at 3000 rpm i will review this vid several times when i go to upgrade so i know im doing it rite .great vid 👍👌
I just did this tonight, but instead of using my 92 f150 2g harness, I found a 95 f150 3g harness and it was plug and play except the green wire near the fender. The plug connector was different, so I used the 95 plug and crimped it into the 92 harness. With full load, it was holding between 14.1- 14.2 volts. I have some 4 gauge wire being made up from ceautoelectic should be here on Monday, so with that maybe it will charge better.
Haha awesome, small world. I'm about to do it on my 1990 f150 with the straight six as well. A friend with racing/building background told me I could get this new alternator hooked up properly without having to buy or scavenge any harnesses or plugs. Can all be done with existing wires, is this true? Not referring to the additional heavy gauge wires I'll run on top of the existing charge and supply circuit of course. Just want to know that I can tie the old harness to the new alt
Great video! working on my dads putting a 130amp off a 1995 3.8 mustang on his 1990 4.9 f150. Will be adding a 155 to 200 amp fuse and my favorite ditching the stock battery cables for welding heavy gauge cable
I remember when 60amps seemed massive overkill in our tiny European cars, now my small engined European car has a 120amp alternator fitted as standard. The two battery route is still a good plan.
Thank you for the vid. you can get some room with a cone filter, uses oil; like a k$n but less $$ that will remove the filter box then you can move the reservoir back a spot to fit battery. or go li-ion for a killer battery but at a whopping price!
my chevy drops when i hit the plow too,im too lazy to run another battery so i just keep a backup alternator behind my seat had to change it twice in 8 years,battery only been changed twice also with heat on and window down.
With 2g. Should both black/orange be connected with yellow wire with a fuse ? Thanks I currently have one wire far left on top (2g) going to yellow wire and the middle one going to the battery. Wire is getting hot
There’s three wires on top plug green yellow white. Green went to the green wire on truck white went to stator so the yellow one had to go somewhere. Mine goes into the big 2 wires
For the Lazy: Here's the write up www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/7-1980-96-bronco-tech/55169-3g-interchange-facts-if-youre-thinking-3g-read-here.html#/topics/55169
I did the 3G swap on my 86 F250. It's pretty mandatory that you run the new 4 gauge minimum charge wire to the battery. Those tiny factory wires will melt eventually. if you run high amperage through them for any period of time. The stock 2G is 65 amps in most cases. I sure don't miss mine!
I used a red 4 gauge wire coming from the alternator, put a 125 amp AMG inline with the rubberized bussman fuse holder. Then another red 4 gauge cable from the other end of the fuse to the starter side of the fender mounted starter relay. Works great. Nothing ever gets hot.
THANK YOU! I went to upgrade my worn 75A for a 130A...had the hardest time figuring out what to do with the second connector. This is everything I needed.
Nice, another job well done. Paul coming back with another story soon, quite enjoy them. Take Care Steve
i have a 94 f150 with 300 i 6 this video just answered so many questions a mechanic shop couldn't. i need to upgrade my set up due to the large stereo system . i am on my 4th alternator i keep catching them on fire im now running a 110 amp from stock 75 stock 90 and second 110 i can't do a big 3 wire upgrade with what i have and looking into a 250 amp or bigger just didn't know how to install it . my truck isn't nothing special but is different my stereo system is in the cap through back window just need to get the power to it so its stable voltage i do have some vids up and on the power cap meters you can see the voltage drop and that at 3000 rpm i will review this vid several times when i go to upgrade so i know im doing it rite .great vid 👍👌
I just did this tonight, but instead of using my 92 f150 2g harness, I found a 95 f150 3g harness and it was plug and play except the green wire near the fender.
The plug connector was different, so I used the 95 plug and crimped it into the 92 harness.
With full load, it was holding between 14.1- 14.2 volts.
I have some 4 gauge wire being made up from ceautoelectic should be here on Monday, so with that maybe it will charge better.
Your ability to film and edit is impressive.
Getting ready to do this upgrade to my 1990 F150 4.9L. Hopefully it is as easy as you make it seem! Great job!!
tomduncan1970 have you done the alternator upgrade and was it easy
3g alternator started in 94 to present
Haha awesome, small world. I'm about to do it on my 1990 f150 with the straight six as well. A friend with racing/building background told me I could get this new alternator hooked up properly without having to buy or scavenge any harnesses or plugs. Can all be done with existing wires, is this true? Not referring to the additional heavy gauge wires I'll run on top of the existing charge and supply circuit of course. Just want to know that I can tie the old harness to the new alt
Looking forward to seeing your take on a second battery.
Great video! working on my dads putting a 130amp off a 1995 3.8 mustang on his 1990 4.9 f150. Will be adding a 155 to 200 amp fuse and my favorite ditching the stock battery cables for welding heavy gauge cable
@William Brewer how did that go? I have the same exact truck as you and am nervous about doing this swap.
I remember when 60amps seemed massive overkill in our tiny European cars, now my small engined European car has a 120amp alternator fitted as standard.
The two battery route is still a good plan.
Thank you for the vid. you can get some room with a cone filter, uses oil; like a k$n but less $$ that will remove the filter box then you can move the reservoir back a spot to fit battery.
or go li-ion for a killer battery but at a whopping price!
my chevy drops when i hit the plow too,im too lazy to run another battery so i just keep a backup alternator behind my seat had to change it twice in 8 years,battery only been changed twice also with heat on and window down.
No issues with how you wired in the stator wire?
So the 2 big black wires dont go to anything anynore?anymore?? Just twist them togther and good?
Nice Video.....glad you won't have to freeze your nuts off anymore!
It’s all about ground connections. I’d go over every ground point.
I went from 1G to 3G a while back. HUGE difference.
Wait til you get 5G in your area! It's like 33.6 to DSL
With 2g. Should both black/orange be connected with yellow wire with a fuse ? Thanks I currently have one wire far left on top (2g) going to yellow wire and the middle one going to the battery. Wire is getting hot
Where does the 2 black wires go
Where did you hook up The Black wire? My startor istryna stay ingaged 94 F-150 xl/6please help me.
Great how to on the 3G swap. :-)
What did ya do with the yellow wire that tide into the 2 big hot wires
There was no yelow wire connected to the two big hot wires.
There’s three wires on top plug green yellow white. Green went to the green wire on truck white went to stator so the yellow one had to go somewhere. Mine goes into the big 2 wires
Oldsmob455 or do you got your yellow wire hooked up to the bolt in the back hot wire bolt
Do you know what the original bolt sizes for the alternator are?
Thank you this was very helpful . Cheers
Great! Just subscribed!
What's the part numbers
I have a 90 Bronco 5.0 4x4. What do I need to do this swap?? Parts list?? or any information please!
If you haven't done swap already... google full size bronco 3g swap thread.
You'll find a complete write up.
For the Lazy: Here's the write up
www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/7-1980-96-bronco-tech/55169-3g-interchange-facts-if-youre-thinking-3g-read-here.html#/topics/55169
Them nuts are pretty important, you don't want to freeze them boys off
By the way great informative video
good job
I just took the bracket off a 96 f150 and put it on my 92 f150 and it so happened I had a new motorcraft 130 amp alt laying around
Thanks for this video.
Great video! Super helpful, thank you!
I bet you didn’t buy a motorcract replacement lol
Why
Don't even think about using the original battery wires
If you are freezing your nuts off, then you should replace your thermostat since that controls your engine temperature and not your electrical system.
Listen to the video again. He was freezing his nuts off because he didn't have enough electricity to run the heater blower and other things he has to.