Running a separate prop shaft with a square hole, and a flex shaft wilth a square end, will take away the radial force on your motor bearings. The intended drive line for the shrimp, with a 3.17mm flex shaft has such a design.
I use the square end flex and a prop shaft with a square hole on all of my fast electric RC boats. I find it the easiest to set up and it stops damage to flex cables and motors. The load is put on the bottom of the strut at the teflon thrust washer rather than cramming the flex up inside the stuffing tube causing issues.
Interesting lesson. TP should beef up their thread if the design engineers want to construct the same way. Beefier thread less chance of the thread popping forward. Thanks for sharing 👍
You can achieve a similar result by adding the thrust bearing to the strut. I’m sure someone has said it already. The gaser guys do that since they run big props.
Very nicely explained. I've always seen the thrust washer on the strut as well. Instead of cutting the shaft and then grinding a flat spot why not just simply add an appropriate sized washer. It's not that this is rocket science but it's not something you think of every day. Thanks for the info
You gotta remember you have maybe 8 to 10 pounds pushing on the motor shaft like I said either the motor got hot letting the glue let go or the motor was put together too tight
Either that motor got hot or there wasn’t enough Loctite on end bell. If you’re set up is right don’t need a thrust bearing. I’ve been running fast electric boats for over 30 years and never had to use one. If you don’t have screws, you have to loctitethe end bells.
Running a separate prop shaft with a square hole, and a flex shaft wilth a square end, will take away the radial force on your motor bearings.
The intended drive line for the shrimp, with a 3.17mm flex shaft has such a design.
I use the square end flex and a prop shaft with a square hole on all of my fast electric RC boats. I find it the easiest to set up and it stops damage to flex cables and motors. The load is put on the bottom of the strut at the teflon thrust washer rather than cramming the flex up inside the stuffing tube causing issues.
Starting a Shrimp build soon and will take in your info for consideration. Looking forward to your Shrimp build. Thanks for sharing.👌👍🇦🇺
Very Very Nice
Interesting lesson. TP should beef up their thread if the design engineers want to construct the same way. Beefier thread less chance of the thread popping forward.
Thanks for sharing 👍
We always ran the thrust bearing on the strut. If you run it on the motor shaft it will push the front bearing out
Only problem with running the thrust bearing on the prop shaft is when the flex cable wraps up from the torq it puts the flex cable in a bind.
You can achieve a similar result by adding the thrust bearing to the strut. I’m sure someone has said it already. The gaser guys do that since they run big props.
Very nicely explained. I've always seen the thrust washer on the strut as well. Instead of cutting the shaft and then grinding a flat spot why not just simply add an appropriate sized washer. It's not that this is rocket science but it's not something you think of every day. Thanks for the info
Exactly on the shimming of the thrust bearing. If you have the room shim it
You gotta remember you have maybe 8 to 10 pounds pushing on the motor shaft like I said either the motor got hot letting the glue let go or the motor was put together too tight
Purddy darn bad when you have to put a girdle on a motor to keep it together. Lol
Either that motor got hot or there wasn’t enough Loctite on end bell. If you’re set up is right don’t need a thrust bearing. I’ve been running fast electric boats for over 30 years and never had to use one. If you don’t have screws, you have to loctitethe end bells.