I'm in my early 50s now and wish I did better at taking care of myself when I was younger while doing industrial jobs over the decades. Don't overlook small pains that persist, no matter where as they can ramp up with a vengeance especially since you do repetitive work. Do not do tasks in a manner that are ergonomically bad. It's always best to avoid injuries beforehand not only by moving in the best manner possible, but also by having all the tools needed that can make your job easier on the body. I always make sure to use power tools on fasteners each and every time and also use cranes, lifts, movable carts, and other types of supports for heavier items so that your body can stay healthy and as well as have a chance for it to heal from past injuries. It may seem like you're being lazy to the young guys, when in fact you're preserving your livelihood by maintaining your health.
As a 26-yo electrical apprentice (more than halfway through) I can agree that I am the last of the generation that really tries to take the time and thought, necessary for doing any job. I may look like I am lazy to the younger apprentices under me but the seasoned vets get it! (it's the ones that are always in constant anxiety and fear of loosing their job, that dont!)
I remember changing the thermostat on my old Ford Tempo. Two bolts and the hose. Nothing else was removed or even close to in the way. Took longer going to the parts store and coming home.
Yeah that's how it should be - even my Lexus GS460 is pretty easy to replace the thermostat on though you have to pull a couple of covers to get at it it's still a half hour job at most. Audi deliberately put crappy plastic parts that will fail in a few years in hard to get to places - all part of the plan to make cars consumable.
@@Beer_Dad1975 It is absurd, that the change out of a thermostat would require the removal of the super charger. The plastic crap they put on automobiles these days is insane. My 2003 BMW required me to unhook the drivers side motot mount and rotate the engine upward and to the passenger side just to remove the plastic housed thermostat that had cracked due to heat cycling. "German Engineering" is an oxymoron.
@@michaelheath9889 Yup, they don't care about the car once the warranty is done, they just want to sell you another one and your old one can go into landfill for all they care. BMW are actually probably the least offensive German make - VAG are the worst IMO as for many of their models they won't stock parts for vehicles more than 10 years old.
@@kgisabeast Not sure if it's in the same place as the 1UZ-FE, but I've done one of those - yes, hell of a job as it's right in the back of the valley under literally EVERYTHING. It was a long time ago, but if memory serves it took me most of a weekend to do. Now I'm getting to old for that kind of shenanigans I'd probably pay someone else to do it - but hopefully it's not something I'll encounter.
I love this this channel because you guys actually EXPLAIN and SHOW the work you do. Jeeezuz it is so frustrating watching 'car' channels that talk and talk about how you should work on cars but never show a thing. There's one guy in particular I'm sure you're familiar with. As a new BMW owner, I enjoy learning all the little things about every German car that comes through your shop. Keep up the great work!!
@@PiitaaDerbez I never viewed scotty as a car channel. All he seems to do is bash all cars except Toyota and Lexus. I like those brands but personally own three german cars with two being at 175k and 250k miles with nothing but oil changes the last 150k miles other than routine maintenance.
You make car repairs look scientific and fun. I grew up with a dad who was a mechanic. All the mechanics ive seen in my life time make their jobs look like agony.
Why are people so amazed that expensive vehicles need expensive parts and repairs? My father in law and his family have owned a import garage since 1958. Every few weeks they get a customer driving a 15 to 20 year old, insert name of luxury import here, who are gobsmacked by the estimate for the repairs or maintenance. My father-in-law tells them the vehicle itself has depreciated but the parts and knowledge required to fix it are still expensive. You may have only paid $10,000 for what was originally a $100,000 vehicle but the parts maintenance and repair don't depreciate.
@@webberfan1234 Maybe people shouldn't buy vehicles to try and impress people they will never meet by driving a vehicle that they can't afford to buy and maintain. Nothing more pathetic than a baller driving some old ass hoopty luxury car and thinking he's actually something!
Because those parts are just not that unusual or unique that they should cost probably approaching ten times as much as other examples except that there probably isn't enough volume for aftermarket companies to make alternatives so Audi knows it can gouge costumers on them.
Crazy there’d be a socket YOU don’t have! Gotta love that German over-engineering! I’m pretty sure they invented that style bolt head just so we’d have to buy new tools lol
I’ve owned (6) BMWs. Except for the E30, they were all maint crap piles with endless issues. Electrical was suspect. Cooling systems are plastic garbage. Vanos problems. Oil pump died on an E36 once and I was lucky to notice immediately and fixed it on the street in a random neighborhood where it broke down. E39 was a cool car on the very rare days it had no issues. Bought a 2015 Porsche Cayman GTS. Zero issues. Zero regrets. Never going back!
Hey Jonny, you dont need that special socket to remove the front caliper. Audi actually recommend to do the front brakes, remove the 21mm bolt that mounts on the bracket instead. And that special socket was not supposed to remove.
I am happy to have done my daughters front brake pads and rotors (cross drilled and vented with ceramic pads) for $230. Obviously not the same caliber as the Audi but they stop pretty well.
BMW: Never lube the sliding pins, dirt gets in there and it turns into an abrasive paste. Doesn't it have a rubber boot to protect it from that? BMW: we are still working on our valve gaskets and once we got those right we will work on the slider pins boots...
Hi, Ninja, totally agree about taking it easy with the new pads and discs after replacement. BUT, I think you need to make it very clear that you have to pump the brakes to restore full pressure before the car moves an inch otherwise the brake pedal will sink straight to the floor on its first application...., not a good situation. Keep the videos coming, I enjoy them.
So all 4 of the rotors are out of spec well at least the pair of them . Sorry for the question from the video the disc shown look very good . Do understand the pads are special with the sensor. Thanks for the fine work showing of the work . Bravo
There are still some OE brake pads that wear rotors enough with the first set of pads that you are 75% of depth to discard thickness. They will only go a few thousand miles and the edge of rotor contact area will start going metal to metal on brake pad metal backer. That also means the wear sensor will report worn brakes when that point is reached. SO, rotors that might look to be ok on this video are unuseable.
I always replaced the plastic cross over pipe when I do the thermostat on a super charged engine I learned it the hard way and I always use my scan tool to reset the rear callipers because you don’t have to deal with rusted small bolts on the callipers.
Awesome video! If I'm not mistaken, you don't need to undo that odd 7 spline bolt to do the pads. My RS3 seems to use the same caliper and I just undid the two 21mm bolts on the back side of the bracket which allowed me to pull the caliper off.
God bless you guys you truly are gifted at what you do it never ceases to amaze me how complicated a motor vehicle is to work on and all the intricate little parts that you guys obviously know what their use is for big respect to you guys there's a guy on the radio who is a mechanic and he gives advice and he always says a good mechanic is not expensive he's priceless great job guys I'm a big fan
Oh man it must be nice to be able to just use powertools for that small bolt that holds the disk on it's place. When you get rust and all that, it usually goes snap when it you even bring a powertool near it.
It's an impact gun so gives small and succetuviely higher torque per impact. So should be better and easier to loosen even rusted bolts. Look into a Milwaukee M12 Fuel stubby, you won't look back.
@@ali1t "Properly" rusted bolts go snap even easier with impacts. Small surface rust on bolts just make them harder to open because socket/head doesn't fit properly. But if it's rusted shut thight, it usually goes snap. I've even broken a 17mm bolthead by hands only because it was rusted as hell, and I didn't even apply that much froce to it.
@@ReijoRitari Get the right impact sockets they will have a more snug fit, further what you may not think is a lot of force, depending on the extension and handle length might have you underestimate the force being applied.
also go easy on the trigger on the impact, so there are less IPM (impacts per minute) that will lower the total force at the get go and each impact will hopefully have a better effect of tapping rust and loosening the tightness between the threads.
I am surprised you didn't mention the little stick on cups that go on the front pads so they dont make noise. Just did this job on my S8 that has the same caliper setup just on 400mm rotors.
RS brakes are stupid expensive. I just got a brake job quote from my local dealership for my 2016 RS7 and the quote was for $7,200. Sourcing the parts myself and having the work done at my independent shop is still going to cost around $3,000, but that's a hell of a lot better than the dealership gouging.
They told me 2700 for rears on my 18 rs5 🤦♂️ there’s a couple options for aftermarket parts but id like oem and Im not sure I trust an independent shop and most of the money is in the parts so I’ll probly just have it done at dealer
I had a brake job done on my Acura, new pads and rotors on all wheels plus new rear calipers and new brake lines (the car is 20 years old, so they crusted out). The total for all that work was $1354. Yes, the Audi in the video can easily outperform my Acura, but is it 4x better? If so, can one even take advantage of that performance on public roads? I don't know. The Audi's are nice looking but 5k for a brake job! If you like a fancy car that hemorrhages money, I guess an Audi is your car.
I threw my back out several times in the 70s and 80s and had to go to chiropractors to straighten it out. Now I have a damaged lumbar vertebra and osteoarthritis. I'm in constant pain from it now in my 70s. Be careful, Jonny! You should have checked with FCPEuro for those discs and pads. They could have overnighted them and given you a much better price on OE or even OEM.
Loved that little smile when he hammered off that front brake disc (rotor in USA) love the calm way Jonny and team work even when its a beast of a job, hope they all get well paid
Future reference, you remove the front calipers with the two rear carrier bolts not the bolts the hold the caliper to the carrier. It is a 21mm bolt x2.
Another top quality repair with some great tips. I learned the parking brake procedure when I did work on our 06 passat years ago and didn't have a scanner or software yet. Great stuff!
1:25, I open the brake bleeder valve for a moment when I push the pistons in, that way all the dirty old fluid comes straight out, instead of going back into the system ?
My VW R32 recommends new caliper bolts after brake job. The bolts are not TDY, but they do not recommend using the original caliper bolts. Same for the rear, use new caliper bracket bolts. I am surprised Audi does not do the same.
I've learned more watching your channel than almost any other TH-cam channel ( love the gas grease monkey and ofcourse the Wizard too..) and almost forgot Magic Mike...lol....thanks for another great video Ninja!!!
Sorry to hear about your back. Been there, done that. It will take a while to heal and even when you think you are healed, you aren't. Hopefully you haven't bulged any discs. That's even worse.
Seems like a fun place to work with guys willing to give a helping hand and no chief mechanic/owner breathing down your neck. I've worked in shops where you'd get screamed at for not using the scan tool to retract the parking brake. It definitely takes more time taking the caliper apart on each wheel.
07 a4 quattro with the 3.2 fsi. I know that crossover pipe well as well as those little hoses that go in it. Tried for half a day to put the bottom one on the top. Audi
@@HenningCA Yep. All it takes is one car to show up that has some new fastener on it. It could be a car that's been in before, but it has a new fastener after a certain year.
Hey ninja, I just wanted to comment something, don't just ignore that pain of yours on your back, get proper check up, specially with that pop you heard because your awesome job wrenching on cars, which in the end involves work and stressing your back, be safe ninja :)
Still love my Audis, but I got some older ones..lol Ones a biturbo toy in progress, but looking at 500 or so hp range when done. Did you know the big 2013 A8 went 0-60 in 4.0 seconds and 12.5 in the quarter mile? Stock.
Interesting about the Caliper pins and lack of lubrication. Is this the way the manufacturers recommend? I thought it was already recommended that you lube them.
Yeah just let a caliper seize and then have some fun. Just how much dirt is somebody thinking is going to get in there? If that's the case then your seals are garbage. I choose to lube.
Some people are suckers I guess. I was quoted 6K for new brakes front and rear on my 2019 Merc S63. Measured the rotors myself and they were still well within spec. Purchased new ceramic pads for all 4 corners for 100 bucks from rock auto, one pad slap later and I have great brakes with zero dust. And when I do need rotors I can get a full set for around a grand. I am guessing this is true with Audi as well as most of them use the same Brembo or TRW components.
I'm guessing much of the $5000 is the new brake rotors. In this case it may make a lot of sense to have them "turned" (aka re-surfaced) and re-used. There is special equipment that allows you to do this with the rotor still mounted to the hub. As an added benefit you will have practically zero runout once it's done. After installing a new rotor I always test it with a dial gauge. If the run-out is too high (over 0.02mm) I will try reinstalling the rotor or, as a last resort, use a rotor-shim. Even after meticulous cleaning of the wheel-hub flange, the minimum runout I've seen gotten is 0.02mm. Note: Applying anti-seize goes a long way to preventing flange corrosion. I remember some high-performance shops offering this "on vehicle" resurfacing after installing new rotors to remove existing run-out.
Ive had multiple 91 audi 200 20vs. The price to replace the front brakes (UFOs) is 'over the top'. The resolution, for me, was to spend a bit of money and time to convert the front brakes to something more attainable and cheaper (while having the same or better braking). Well worth the time and effort if you plan to have your vehicle for the long term.
Look like the owner of the RS5 do a lot of hard braking to already wear out that system. John's work remind me of when I replaced the thermostat on my A6.
How many of you clean the hub then put a little antiseize on the hub and back side of the rotor to make removal easier in the future? Any reason not to do that on an Audi RS5? Thanks
Jonny, I'm sorry you hurt your back while lifting. I've been turning wrenches a very long time & one thing is certain, your back, hips, knees, & and ankles.I live in pain each day. This industry will tear up your body I don't care how many tools you have. Thank you for another wonderful video sir, TMP from N.J.
Ninja, why haven't you measured if hubs are straight and what is deviation of the discs after mounting them? I found it's very crucial and it can prevent further issues with shimmy.
When I heard $5k, I was like no way, gotta be cheaper for some OE disks and pads. Checked FCP Euro, lol nope. Specific size only for the RS5 is like $1200-1500 for a seat of rear disks and same for the fronts. Didn’t even bother checking what the pads go for lol.
Hi Johnny. When you overnight specialty tools for unique vehicles, is this cost factored into the customer's repair bill or do you do it at as shop expenses? Just curious to see the back end of a business and how it works.
I did same thermostat job myself on my a7 cuz dealer wanted 8k to fix… took me an entire week to do hahaha but I replaced all hoses + water pump and pvc valve… all I can say is that that a6 was crying for help, hopefully u guys didn’t damage something else, but hey I get it time is money. That’s why I prefer to do it myself if possible
Silly question time from me ... why were they so expensive were they ceramics? And did the rotors need replacing along with the pads or is that just what everyone does nowadays?
$5000 USD is a crazy amount for a brake job, I do understand the thermostat aspect so pricing it with the T-Stat & wear sensor at $5000 makes a bit more sense but extremely high IMO. Hopefully 50% $ of that was on parts
Audi brake jobs are not this expensive except in rare cases. This is an RS trim (Audi top performance trim) with ceramic brakes. No real reason to have ceramic brakes unless you are road coursing your vehicle.
@@kevinriordan1632 Jonny said they were steel rotors... Comment by wes west 2 weeks ago saying he would sell the car if he found out a brake job cost $5k
Proof that no matter how many tools you have you always need one more.
True story
You can never have enough tools. Plus tool companies love coming up with new ones that you must have.
Also proof that many cars are over-engineered; and not in a good way-engineered obsolescence.
It seems like the biggest tool, is the guy paying $5,000 for a brake job.
Ain't that the truth!
I love the humility to admit that another tech can do something faster. Teamwork level 100 🙌🏻
I'm in my early 50s now and wish I did better at taking care of myself when I was younger while doing industrial jobs over the decades. Don't overlook small pains that persist, no matter where as they can ramp up with a vengeance especially since you do repetitive work. Do not do tasks in a manner that are ergonomically bad. It's always best to avoid injuries beforehand not only by moving in the best manner possible, but also by having all the tools needed that can make your job easier on the body. I always make sure to use power tools on fasteners each and every time and also use cranes, lifts, movable carts, and other types of supports for heavier items so that your body can stay healthy and as well as have a chance for it to heal from past injuries. It may seem like you're being lazy to the young guys, when in fact you're preserving your livelihood by maintaining your health.
Once I hit 40 all the past injuries started to act up.
At 67 now, i can agree with you, but, younger people don't listen :)
@@johnthorley8162 let them suffer then!
As a 26-yo electrical apprentice (more than halfway through) I can agree that I am the last of the generation that really tries to take the time and thought, necessary for doing any job. I may look like I am lazy to the younger apprentices under me but the seasoned vets get it! (it's the ones that are always in constant anxiety and fear of loosing their job, that dont!)
Fell on my back in my 30s. In my 50s every once in a while excruciating pain when IAM just bending down. The worst pain I ever felt.
A mandatory class for German automotive engineers, "Making Simple Repairs Extremely Expensive and Difficult."
There is a very good reason why you would find an automated external defibrillator at every Audi Service department.
I remember changing the thermostat on my old Ford Tempo. Two bolts and the hose. Nothing else was removed or even close to in the way. Took longer going to the parts store and coming home.
Yeah that's how it should be - even my Lexus GS460 is pretty easy to replace the thermostat on though you have to pull a couple of covers to get at it it's still a half hour job at most. Audi deliberately put crappy plastic parts that will fail in a few years in hard to get to places - all part of the plan to make cars consumable.
@@Beer_Dad1975 It is absurd, that the change out of a thermostat would require the removal of the super charger. The plastic crap they put on automobiles these days is insane. My 2003 BMW required me to unhook the drivers side motot mount and rotate the engine upward and to the passenger side just to remove the plastic housed thermostat that had cracked due to heat cycling. "German Engineering" is an oxymoron.
@@michaelheath9889 Yup, they don't care about the car once the warranty is done, they just want to sell you another one and your old one can go into landfill for all they care. BMW are actually probably the least offensive German make - VAG are the worst IMO as for many of their models they won't stock parts for vehicles more than 10 years old.
@@Beer_Dad1975 i had a GS460, still miss that car. The starter was a pretty big job on it though from what I remember
@@kgisabeast Not sure if it's in the same place as the 1UZ-FE, but I've done one of those - yes, hell of a job as it's right in the back of the valley under literally EVERYTHING. It was a long time ago, but if memory serves it took me most of a weekend to do. Now I'm getting to old for that kind of shenanigans I'd probably pay someone else to do it - but hopefully it's not something I'll encounter.
I love this this channel because you guys actually EXPLAIN and SHOW the work you do. Jeeezuz it is so frustrating watching 'car' channels that talk and talk about how you should work on cars but never show a thing.
There's one guy in particular I'm sure you're familiar with.
As a new BMW owner, I enjoy learning all the little things about every German car that comes through your shop. Keep up the great work!!
I like both ninja and wizard. If you want a good car channel, look up legitstreetcars. Addicting to watch.
You mean Scotty right?
@@PiitaaDerbez I never viewed scotty as a car channel. All he seems to do is bash all cars except Toyota and Lexus. I like those brands but personally own three german cars with two being at 175k and 250k miles with nothing but oil changes the last 150k miles other than routine maintenance.
You make car repairs look scientific and fun.
I grew up with a dad who was a mechanic. All the mechanics ive seen in my life time make their jobs look like agony.
Why are people so amazed that expensive vehicles need expensive parts and repairs?
My father in law and his family have owned a import garage since 1958.
Every few weeks they get a customer driving a 15 to 20 year old, insert name of luxury import here, who are gobsmacked by the estimate for the repairs or maintenance.
My father-in-law tells them the vehicle itself has depreciated but the parts and knowledge required to fix it are still expensive.
You may have only paid $10,000 for what was originally a $100,000 vehicle but the parts maintenance and repair don't depreciate.
Sounds like y’all are running a scam!!!
@@webberfan1234 Maybe people shouldn't buy vehicles to try and impress people they will never meet by driving a vehicle that they can't afford to buy and maintain.
Nothing more pathetic than a baller driving some old ass hoopty luxury car and thinking he's actually something!
Because those parts are just not that unusual or unique that they should cost probably approaching ten times as much as other examples except that there probably isn't enough volume for aftermarket companies to make alternatives so Audi knows it can gouge costumers on them.
@@Tk3997 they're made of gold and diamonds
I love this channel. Learn, and laugh with Jonny, Jon, and Ben.
Crazy there’d be a socket YOU don’t have! Gotta love that German over-engineering! I’m pretty sure they invented that style bolt head just so we’d have to buy new tools lol
Had a BMW once....ONCE.
I’ve owned (6) BMWs. Except for the E30, they were all maint crap piles with endless issues. Electrical was suspect. Cooling systems are plastic garbage. Vanos problems. Oil pump died on an E36 once and I was lucky to notice immediately and fixed it on the street in a random neighborhood where it broke down. E39 was a cool car on the very rare days it had no issues. Bought a 2015 Porsche Cayman GTS. Zero issues. Zero regrets. Never going back!
Likely because of the 200Nm torque spec. A hex head bolt would probably round off.
I like how quiet and clean your shop is shows a lot of professionalism.
Quiet shop equals professionalism??
@@1891kmk more the clean part. The quiet is just very calming, like a library.
Hey Jonny, you dont need that special socket to remove the front caliper. Audi actually recommend to do the front brakes, remove the 21mm bolt that mounts on the bracket instead. And that special socket was not supposed to remove.
This is one of the many reasons why I have TOYOTAS....
Me too...my neighbor knows her Mercedes mechanic by name. Must have good coffee there?!
Toyota doesn't make anything close to the RS though.
Totally brilliant, life just has to stop when a Jonny video comes up!!
Man love watching you and your team with the German cars learn so much
I am happy to have done my daughters front brake pads and rotors (cross drilled and vented with ceramic pads) for $230. Obviously not the same caliber as the Audi but they stop pretty well.
I'm still driving my 2008 Corolla that I bought in 2015 for $5,000. When a brake job cost more than a good used car, that's crazy.
BMW: Never lube the sliding pins, dirt gets in there and it turns into an abrasive paste. Doesn't it have a rubber boot to protect it from that? BMW: we are still working on our valve gaskets and once we got those right we will work on the slider pins boots...
lol accurate
Note to self, don’t buy an Audi.
@@aygwm sometimes friction is a good thing 👌🏼
@@ScottSellsSoCal Your boyfriend must like it rough 😂
@@dickfitzinya3082 does yours as well?
Audi = Special Tools :) I know the feeling, great channel, great shop, great guys! Always fun to watch your videos.
Hi, Ninja, totally agree about taking it easy with the new pads and discs after replacement. BUT, I think you need to make it very clear that you have to pump the brakes to restore full pressure before the car moves an inch otherwise the brake pedal will sink straight to the floor on its first application...., not a good situation. Keep the videos coming, I enjoy them.
So all 4 of the rotors are out of spec well at least the pair of them . Sorry for the question from the video the disc shown look very good . Do understand the pads are special with the sensor. Thanks for the fine work showing of the work . Bravo
they may LOOK good but they could be warped and it just doesn't show up till you stand on the brakes.
@@hirisk761 Well that is a bit of data that would explain the replacement of all 4 rotors worthy of being shown on the video that they where not true.
There are still some OE brake pads that wear rotors enough with the first set of pads that you are 75% of depth to discard thickness. They will only go a few thousand miles and the edge of rotor contact area will start going metal to metal on brake pad metal backer. That also means the wear sensor will report worn brakes when that point is reached. SO, rotors that might look to be ok on this video are unuseable.
I always replaced the plastic cross over pipe when I do the thermostat on a super charged engine I learned it the hard way and I always use my scan tool to reset the rear callipers because you don’t have to deal with rusted small bolts on the callipers.
When you think you had all the sockets needed to work on german cars, they come up with new special tools.. LMAO
That's why I love this place, you guys are the best, in my opinion.
Awesome video! If I'm not mistaken, you don't need to undo that odd 7 spline bolt to do the pads. My RS3 seems to use the same caliper and I just undid the two 21mm bolts on the back side of the bracket which allowed me to pull the caliper off.
You are correct
God bless you guys you truly are gifted at what you do it never ceases to amaze me how complicated a motor vehicle is to work on and all the intricate little parts that you guys obviously know what their use is for big respect to you guys there's a guy on the radio who is a mechanic and he gives advice and he always says a good mechanic is not expensive he's priceless great job guys I'm a big fan
Oh man it must be nice to be able to just use powertools for that small bolt that holds the disk on it's place. When you get rust and all that, it usually goes snap when it you even bring a powertool near it.
It's an impact gun so gives small and succetuviely higher torque per impact. So should be better and easier to loosen even rusted bolts. Look into a Milwaukee M12 Fuel stubby, you won't look back.
@@ali1t "Properly" rusted bolts go snap even easier with impacts. Small surface rust on bolts just make them harder to open because socket/head doesn't fit properly. But if it's rusted shut thight, it usually goes snap. I've even broken a 17mm bolthead by hands only because it was rusted as hell, and I didn't even apply that much froce to it.
@@ReijoRitari Get the right impact sockets they will have a more snug fit, further what you may not think is a lot of force, depending on the extension and handle length might have you underestimate the force being applied.
also go easy on the trigger on the impact, so there are less IPM (impacts per minute) that will lower the total force at the get go and each impact will hopefully have a better effect of tapping rust and loosening the tightness between the threads.
I am surprised you didn't mention the little stick on cups that go on the front pads so they dont make noise. Just did this job on my S8 that has the same caliper setup just on 400mm rotors.
RS brakes are stupid expensive. I just got a brake job quote from my local dealership for my 2016 RS7 and the quote was for $7,200. Sourcing the parts myself and having the work done at my independent shop is still going to cost around $3,000, but that's a hell of a lot better than the dealership gouging.
They told me 2700 for rears on my 18 rs5 🤦♂️ there’s a couple options for aftermarket parts but id like oem and Im not sure I trust an independent shop and most of the money is in the parts so I’ll probly just have it done at dealer
love the CN videos....he is so busy, the ninja doesnt have too much time to make videos, but they are always excellent
I had a brake job done on my Acura, new pads and rotors on all wheels plus new rear calipers and new brake lines (the car is 20 years old, so they crusted out). The total for all that work was $1354. Yes, the Audi in the video can easily outperform my Acura, but is it 4x better? If so, can one even take advantage of that performance on public roads? I don't know. The Audi's are nice looking but 5k for a brake job! If you like a fancy car that hemorrhages money, I guess an Audi is your car.
I threw my back out several times in the 70s and 80s and had to go to chiropractors to straighten it out. Now I have a damaged lumbar vertebra and osteoarthritis. I'm in constant pain from it now in my 70s.
Be careful, Jonny!
You should have checked with FCPEuro for those discs and pads. They could have overnighted them and given you a much better price on OE or even OEM.
Loved the 'Ego edit' lol!
Great video Johnny!
Loved that little smile when he hammered off that front brake disc (rotor in USA) love the calm way Jonny and team work even when its a beast of a job, hope they all get well paid
First time I saw those bolts was on a q7. Never seen them before.
For rears there is a diagnostic feature to service the brakes that pulls back the small electric motor, no need to do it manually.
Future reference, you remove the front calipers with the two rear carrier bolts not the bolts the hold the caliper to the carrier. It is a 21mm bolt x2.
It's all relative to cost of parts.
My 17 s3 costs about 1500 for front and rear
Rotors and pads on my Terminator cobra are 250 bucks... I can't imagine spending that much, but hope the brakes last for you brother.
I hope that you didn't hurt your back too badly Jonny. Take care!
IBUPROFEN does wonders for my back.
@@larsch6529 but it's gonna destroy you liver long term.
@@remowilliams7029 just like alcohol,,
@@ReviveAndDrive-mk1 Of course except Ibu actually helps with the pain. Alcohol serves no purpose except to send you to the grave.
Probably the reason for the seven spline bolt is the 200Nm (147 ½ lb/ft) torque spec? A hex head bolt might get rounded off trying to torque it down.
Johnny. One of smartest nicest people around
Another top quality repair with some great tips. I learned the parking brake procedure when I did work on our 06 passat years ago and didn't have a scanner or software yet. Great stuff!
1:25, I open the brake bleeder valve for a moment when I push the pistons in, that way all the dirty old fluid comes straight out, instead of going back into the system ?
My VW R32 recommends new caliper bolts after brake job. The bolts are not TDY, but they do not recommend using the original caliper bolts. Same for the rear, use new caliper bracket bolts. I am surprised Audi does not do the same.
I've learned more watching your channel than almost any other TH-cam channel ( love the gas grease monkey and ofcourse the Wizard too..) and almost forgot Magic Mike...lol....thanks for another great video Ninja!!!
Watch Car Care Nut on Toyota... basically advice applies to every manufacturer.
Gorgeous wheels on the e36 on the ramp in the background.
E36 M3 saloon alloys.
Sorry to hear about your back. Been there, done that. It will take a while to heal and even when you think you are healed, you aren't. Hopefully you haven't bulged any discs. That's even worse.
Seems like a fun place to work with guys willing to give a helping hand and no chief mechanic/owner breathing down your neck. I've worked in shops where you'd get screamed at for not using the scan tool to retract the parking brake. It definitely takes more time taking the caliper apart on each wheel.
Great video
07 a4 quattro with the 3.2 fsi. I know that crossover pipe well as well as those little hoses that go in it. Tried for half a day to put the bottom one on the top. Audi
Got to love German cars. They’re built and put together like they’re never meant to be taken apart.
Ecs tuning for high quality oem alternatives. I run Zimmerman rotors on most my cars. Love them. Never warp.
Would love to see some road test footage after repairs.
I thought Johnny would have every single tool under the sun in that workshop 😃
There's always one more.
@@HenningCA Yep. All it takes is one car to show up that has some new fastener on it. It could be a car that's been in before, but it has a new fastener after a certain year.
Lube the pins but make sure to remove all the old grease! Not a dirt issue but hydraulic pressure of too much grease can bend the pins!
Hey ninja, I just wanted to comment something, don't just ignore that pain of yours on your back, get proper check up, specially with that pop you heard because your awesome job wrenching on cars, which in the end involves work and stressing your back, be safe ninja :)
Nothing ibuprofen can fix.
@@johnnykaraj6115 ibuprofen long term will kill your liver, like he said get it checked that pop was a warning from the body.
Agreed, as Shakespeare once said: “Get thee to a Chiropractor”
What a beautiful and complicated car💯
Still love my Audis, but I got some older ones..lol
Ones a biturbo toy in progress, but looking at 500 or so hp range when done.
Did you know the big 2013 A8 went 0-60 in 4.0 seconds and 12.5 in the quarter mile? Stock.
Why replace the rotors? They looked perfectly good.
You guys strike me as Portuguese. Am I right? Great video and great work guys. Keep up.
And that’s why i have Lexus,actually 2 of them,GS 350 F and IS 300 ,dependable and easy to keep up with.
Interesting about the Caliper pins and lack of lubrication. Is this the way the manufacturers recommend? I thought it was already recommended that you lube them.
Yeah just let a caliper seize and then have some fun. Just how much dirt is somebody thinking is going to get in there? If that's the case then your seals are garbage. I choose to lube.
VW tells you to not lube them either
@@aygwm exactly and they also tell you a 10k mile oil change is normal too smdh
You do very good videos and are a very knowledgeable guy
Would love to see how they clean the hands, were they ever full of brake dust!
Fast Orange Hand Cleaner
Rotors look good, reuse them!
Great commentary , Great to watch , really enjoyed , I'm an ex Car Mechanic, cheers.
Johnny, just wondering why you did not open bleeder screw to remove the old brake fluid when you pushed the pistons back in on the calipers.
Makes me love my gti even more, basic tools for its brake job
B5 Passat and f30 335i here. Both simple brake jobs.
@@joes.7536 Agreed, weird shaped bolts/nuts are a way for dealers to charge more
Some people are suckers I guess. I was quoted 6K for new brakes front and rear on my 2019 Merc S63. Measured the rotors myself and they were still well within spec. Purchased new ceramic pads for all 4 corners for 100 bucks from rock auto, one pad slap later and I have great brakes with zero dust. And when I do need rotors I can get a full set for around a grand. I am guessing this is true with Audi as well as most of them use the same Brembo or TRW components.
very true i change the wifes and my audi s6 and s7 400 mm rotors front cant remember the rears with pads for about 1,200k a full set per car .
I have the rs5 and haven’t found really cheap options they’re all expensive it seems
Think somewhere I read that Audi says “not” to remove the special bolt, remove the two 21mm bolts instead.
Father time.. the only undefided champion. Ben, he will get you too.
I'm guessing much of the $5000 is the new brake rotors. In this case it may make a lot of sense to have them "turned" (aka re-surfaced) and re-used. There is special equipment that allows you to do this with the rotor still mounted to the hub.
As an added benefit you will have practically zero runout once it's done.
After installing a new rotor I always test it with a dial gauge. If the run-out is too high (over 0.02mm) I will try reinstalling the rotor or, as a last resort, use a rotor-shim. Even after meticulous cleaning of the wheel-hub flange, the minimum runout I've seen gotten is 0.02mm. Note: Applying anti-seize goes a long way to preventing flange corrosion.
I remember some high-performance shops offering this "on vehicle" resurfacing after installing new rotors to remove existing run-out.
Not advisable to mess with brakes on a car this fast. Also there is almost certainly not enough thickness to allow a resurface.
Dont think you can resurface a cross drilled or slotted rotor.
Ive had multiple 91 audi 200 20vs.
The price to replace the front brakes (UFOs) is 'over the top'.
The resolution, for me, was to spend a bit of money and time to convert the front brakes to something more attainable and cheaper (while having the same or better braking).
Well worth the time and effort if you plan to have your vehicle for the long term.
Look like the owner of the RS5 do a lot of hard braking to already wear out that system. John's work remind me of when I replaced the thermostat on my A6.
How many of you clean the hub then put a little antiseize on the hub and back side of the rotor to make removal easier in the future? Any reason not to do that on an Audi RS5? Thanks
Especially for the tires, my drums on my back are rusted like crazy making it harder than hell to just even take the tires off
Jonny, I'm sorry you hurt your back while lifting. I've been turning wrenches a very long time & one thing is certain, your back, hips, knees, & and ankles.I live in pain each day. This industry will tear up your body I don't care how many tools you have. Thank you for another wonderful video sir, TMP from N.J.
Another fix on Ninja, brilliant!
Im assuming those are carbon ceramic rotors and the OEM pads is why they cost so much?
I feel your pain on the back injury...been there....no fun.
Ninja, why haven't you measured if hubs are straight and what is deviation of the discs after mounting them? I found it's very crucial and it can prevent further issues with shimmy.
When I heard $5k, I was like no way, gotta be cheaper for some OE disks and pads. Checked FCP Euro, lol nope. Specific size only for the RS5 is like $1200-1500 for a seat of rear disks and same for the fronts. Didn’t even bother checking what the pads go for lol.
Johnny doesn't use gloves because he takes the mechanic's feel to a whole different level.
I had a 2005 Cayenne turbo with the power kit big brakes. Front rotors alone were almost $2k. Well over $2,500 just in parts.
Hi Johnny. When you overnight specialty tools for unique vehicles, is this cost factored into the customer's repair bill or do you do it at as shop expenses? Just curious to see the back end of a business and how it works.
Nope. That's my responsibility and I don't charge extra.
I have an S4 with the same engine as that A6, not looking forward to changing out the thermostat and the pcv LOL
Just had my 3.0 tfsi Audi Serviced, back discs and pads were around 320$, The RS5 are a bit bigger though.
I did same thermostat job myself on my a7 cuz dealer wanted 8k to fix… took me an entire week to do hahaha but I replaced all hoses + water pump and pvc valve… all I can say is that that a6 was crying for help, hopefully u guys didn’t damage something else, but hey I get it time is money. That’s why I prefer to do it myself if possible
Great Job as always. Love your content Ninja !
You gotta change the discs with the pads? Every time? 😟
Silly question time from me ... why were they so expensive were they ceramics? And did the rotors need replacing along with the pads or is that just what everyone does nowadays?
Hey Car Ninja, great video!
Cheers from albania
Yo...where did you get that piston compression tool, Jonny? I have a rachet one, but that one looks nice!
I have one just like Jonny's, good on foreign and domestics.
Ben had it.
No anti seize on hubs so rotors would not stick again?
curious how much that thermostat change cost
$5000 USD is a crazy amount for a brake job, I do understand the thermostat aspect so pricing it with the T-Stat & wear sensor at $5000 makes a bit more sense but extremely high IMO. Hopefully 50% $ of that was on parts
Audi brake jobs are not this expensive except in rare cases. This is an RS trim (Audi top performance trim) with ceramic brakes. No real reason to have ceramic brakes unless you are road coursing your vehicle.
@@kevinriordan1632 Jonny said they were steel rotors... Comment by wes west 2 weeks ago saying he would sell the car if he found out a brake job cost $5k
I would buy such a car but drive extra slow and engine brake as much as possible.
I had a 2001 Mustang Bullitt with red calipers, I so wanted to clean those Audi ones lol
I guess it's a small thing, but why didn't you clean all of the dust off of the beautiful red calipers? Other than that, excellent work.
Wouldn’t replacing that tiny hose under the s/c be a good idea while you have all of that other uberkrap out of the way?
OMG... what are the rotors and pads made out of to cost 5000 for brake job?