*TIPS on that job:* - Buy a set of new O rings for all the solenoids. If you are about to do this job they are most likely a bit brittle... if not hard like a rock some parts of it already missing. They cost next to nothing (not at BMW but at any online store that sells them, if you don't know just ask them) - Once you have them out clean them by hand and shake them hard while cleaning. You can also use a cup with fuel to submerge them in it and use a 12V source with low amps to force the valve to open and close to clean it even better. Use all 3 ways if possible but do at least the shaking. Just spraying does very little but hey... still better than nothing. - If that will sort your problem then be ready for it to come back after some time. If that is the case you can try to clean them again but in most cases you're going to need a set of new parts. Buy Pierburg. They are OEM supplier minus the BMW added tax/price. I got a set of 4 for the price of ONE at BMW. Just for a comparison. You can also buy a cheaper brand but be ready to change then again as they will fail sooner. How soon? Well... nobody knows. Price and quality are in a relation here. But you will know when it happens :) - They will come with one O ring already on the solenoid and 2 others in a bag so you can pick the one that will fit your engine. Put the O ring in the groove first and then insert the solenoid or else you risk damaging the O ring and you may not even be able to get it in because of the clearance... which is close to zero. The solenoid has a ridge allowing you to "slide" it somewhat inside with the O ring already in place while you will have a hard time doing the same with the O ring on the solenoid... trying to battle your way inside while putting massive energy on the O ring to go over a sharp edge. Don't need to tell you how this may end :) - Once you're at it check and clean your Oil Check Valve. Depending on your engine type you may have up to 6 of them (V8 has 3 for each cylinder block). Some are easy to access some are well hidden so you have to remove your wheel, archliners and get a long extension to reach that thing. There are a total of 6 on the N62, 3 at each side next to the throttle body, easy access. Especially ridiculously and wonderfull easy if you've done the alternator bracket :) if you don't know what that means DO NOT search for it. Stay happy wihthout knowing what it is so you do not unlock a new fear you didn't know you could have... but if you ever find yourself leaking 5 liters of engine oil in less than 5 minutes of drive then this is your best bet :) tried to not tell you and tell you at the same time since it is a good thing to know but not to keep in mind... as you may summon it by thinking too much about it. - The valves can be cleaned in most cases and it is usually enough but if you look inside and the thing is past its better days or plastic part is gone get a new one. - You may also want to check on your Oil Pressure Switch. That thing is cheap like nothing next to it and even BMW is using the cheapest China made switches. Because of the failure rate is very high and if you are getting your car serviced at BMW then you may end up getting 2 or 4 additional fixes which consist of only changing this part for another one in hope it will work. Because BMW didn't care much about quality with this part. So you can pick any reputable aftermarket brand and the worst that can happen is a 1:1 scenario with BMW - meaning you'll have to buy another lottery ticket in the shape of an oil switch. BTW you'll need a 24mm pipe/tube socket for that because the connector will be in your way in most of the cases. - Last but not least - check your PCV valve/diaphrame. The N62 has them VEEEEEEEERY easy to access but the cover can also veeeeeery easy brake. Be carefull.
I’m a little too late, but honestly i’m glad! Yes it definitely is not as intimidating haha thank you so much for watching! Let me know if you have questions while you do them 👍
@@NorVack I appreciate it dude. I just got back from an overseas business trip and it took about three hours to swap out all for vanos in my end 62 engine. That left side bank was a bit of a pain but it worked out OK. I love the feeling of pushing those in that last little bit; there was that suction you talked about. I’m going to hook up the diagnostic software and reset the timing values and see what happens next. Thanks again for posting this I really do feel like a champ.
One thing I would add to your video regarding cleaning the solenoid is when you are cleaning it, get a 12v battery and two bits of wire. Connect the two wires to the two terminals on the sensor momentarily and you will hear the solenoid click open and closed. Make sure you power the solenoid up and clean inside the chamber then disconnect and clean the body to make sure it’s fully clean.
@@anthonyk yes, perfectly safe, A solinoid just moves back and forth when a current is passed through it and in this case it opens two separate passages for the oil to go through. If you have a motorbike battery that will work as well.
Your idle is/was fine, those seals are through, I hope you cleaned them better than you showed in the video, and you should use electronics cleaner, not carburetor, on the connectors
Was replacing my belt and clean up and replace the vanos orings. Put everything back together and it started to idle rough and had accelerating problems. The codes it threw out were P0024, p0019. Any tips on that? You ever experienced that problem
Figured out the problem. It was the connection wire that were installed incorrectly and one of the vanos was not flush with the block. After that problems were gone
Hello my friend The engine of the BMW N73 , spring but what I blended there is a difference between its size, is it small for the exhaust or for the clean air?
I just subscribed to your channell...I have an 2005 745li..I've had two of them..but my daily driver is running rich and after being wiped up the fuel system a and b is in open loop....I noticed it Jenks and surges..the rpm Hand bounces..and soot is on the ground..idk..please give me your opinion..does it sound like an 02 sensor problem...
Have your N62 checked by somebody with the original BMW diag. He can check all the values to see, whether the car is running as it should. I'm sure you will find some local guru, going to the authorized dealer would be a waste of money.
Torque converter is part of the automatic transmission. If the car is in park the torque converter is not even being driven by the engine. It’s not the torque converter
Hey My 6Series is having a rough Idle & Engine Die...Could the Vanos Solenoid Cause this Issue? I Recently changed the Battery. I Also Heard It Could be IBS Sensor
It’s simple it’s alway a little vacuum leak I no everything about these engines had mines for 15 years vacuum leak vacuum leak vacuum leak and don’t forget overtime the valve cover shrink u will never no until u change it
To check VANOS you just have to read live data in INPA. Going around having no idea what is the problem is kinda waste of time and money if you start trowing parts on it. First find where is the problem (with diagnostic) than try to figure out what is causing it and than start working under the hood. What you are doing is kinda childish approach.
*TIPS on that job:*
- Buy a set of new O rings for all the solenoids. If you are about to do this job they are most likely a bit brittle... if not hard like a rock some parts of it already missing. They cost next to nothing (not at BMW but at any online store that sells them, if you don't know just ask them)
- Once you have them out clean them by hand and shake them hard while cleaning. You can also use a cup with fuel to submerge them in it and use a 12V source with low amps to force the valve to open and close to clean it even better. Use all 3 ways if possible but do at least the shaking. Just spraying does very little but hey... still better than nothing.
- If that will sort your problem then be ready for it to come back after some time. If that is the case you can try to clean them again but in most cases you're going to need a set of new parts. Buy Pierburg. They are OEM supplier minus the BMW added tax/price. I got a set of 4 for the price of ONE at BMW. Just for a comparison. You can also buy a cheaper brand but be ready to change then again as they will fail sooner. How soon? Well... nobody knows. Price and quality are in a relation here. But you will know when it happens :)
- They will come with one O ring already on the solenoid and 2 others in a bag so you can pick the one that will fit your engine. Put the O ring in the groove first and then insert the solenoid or else you risk damaging the O ring and you may not even be able to get it in because of the clearance... which is close to zero. The solenoid has a ridge allowing you to "slide" it somewhat inside with the O ring already in place while you will have a hard time doing the same with the O ring on the solenoid... trying to battle your way inside while putting massive energy on the O ring to go over a sharp edge. Don't need to tell you how this may end :)
- Once you're at it check and clean your Oil Check Valve. Depending on your engine type you may have up to 6 of them (V8 has 3 for each cylinder block). Some are easy to access some are well hidden so you have to remove your wheel, archliners and get a long extension to reach that thing. There are a total of 6 on the N62, 3 at each side next to the throttle body, easy access. Especially ridiculously and wonderfull easy if you've done the alternator bracket :) if you don't know what that means DO NOT search for it. Stay happy wihthout knowing what it is so you do not unlock a new fear you didn't know you could have... but if you ever find yourself leaking 5 liters of engine oil in less than 5 minutes of drive then this is your best bet :) tried to not tell you and tell you at the same time since it is a good thing to know but not to keep in mind... as you may summon it by thinking too much about it.
- The valves can be cleaned in most cases and it is usually enough but if you look inside and the thing is past its better days or plastic part is gone get a new one.
- You may also want to check on your Oil Pressure Switch. That thing is cheap like nothing next to it and even BMW is using the cheapest China made switches. Because of the failure rate is very high and if you are getting your car serviced at BMW then you may end up getting 2 or 4 additional fixes which consist of only changing this part for another one in hope it will work. Because BMW didn't care much about quality with this part. So you can pick any reputable aftermarket brand and the worst that can happen is a 1:1 scenario with BMW - meaning you'll have to buy another lottery ticket in the shape of an oil switch. BTW you'll need a 24mm pipe/tube socket for that because the connector will be in your way in most of the cases.
- Last but not least - check your PCV valve/diaphrame. The N62 has them VEEEEEEEERY easy to access but the cover can also veeeeeery easy brake. Be carefull.
If your solenoids are bad, replacing them will deliver you an engine feeling reborn. Much more power in the low rpms.
These need to be cycled while in an ultrasonic bath. The most common cause of pressure loss with these soilinoids are the orings.
Thanks for posting up this video dude! I feel like after watching this I could tackle my VANOS by myself and not trip out too much.
I’m a little too late, but honestly i’m glad! Yes it definitely is not as intimidating haha thank you so much for watching! Let me know if you have questions while you do them 👍
@@NorVack I appreciate it dude. I just got back from an overseas business trip and it took about three hours to swap out all for vanos in my end 62 engine. That left side bank was a bit of a pain but it worked out OK. I love the feeling of pushing those in that last little bit; there was that suction you talked about. I’m going to hook up the diagnostic software and reset the timing values and see what happens next. Thanks again for posting this I really do feel like a champ.
One thing I would add to your video regarding cleaning the solenoid is when you are cleaning it, get a 12v battery and two bits of wire.
Connect the two wires to the two terminals on the sensor momentarily and you will hear the solenoid click open and closed.
Make sure you power the solenoid up and clean inside the chamber then disconnect and clean the body to make sure it’s fully clean.
InstaBlaster.
is this safe to do could i hook some wires up to my car battery i have and make it click and clean it?
@@anthonyk yes, perfectly safe,
A solinoid just moves back and forth when a current is passed through it and in this case it opens two separate passages for the oil to go through.
If you have a motorbike battery that will work as well.
Check your Crank Case vent valve PCV regulating valve covers.
Your idle is/was fine, those seals are through, I hope you cleaned them better than you showed in the video, and you should use electronics cleaner, not carburetor, on the connectors
good video. i never knew what that was in my e70 N62.
Hey i’m glad you found it helpful! Best of luck in your future repairs ! 👍
yes. it will help me
Was replacing my belt and clean up and replace the vanos orings. Put everything back together and it started to idle rough and had accelerating problems. The codes it threw out were P0024, p0019. Any tips on that? You ever experienced that problem
Figured out the problem. It was the connection wire that were installed incorrectly and one of the vanos was not flush with the block. After that problems were gone
Thanks for posting the solution. I’m cleaning my vanos right now, I have p0024 also
Hello my friend
The engine of the BMW N73 , spring but what I blended there is a difference between its size, is it small for the exhaust or for the clean air?
did you find out what was the cause of the fluctuating idle ?
I just subscribed to your channell...I have an 2005 745li..I've had two of them..but my daily driver is running rich and after being wiped up the fuel system a and b is in open loop....I noticed it Jenks and surges..the rpm Hand bounces..and soot is on the ground..idk..please give me your opinion..does it sound like an 02 sensor problem...
Have your N62 checked by somebody with the original BMW diag. He can check all the values to see, whether the car is running as it should. I'm sure you will find some local guru, going to the authorized dealer would be a waste of money.
It would been nice if music was off like how can i hear anything with music
This video helped me 💯💯💯 ty bro
Hey i’m glad! Thank you so much for watching :)
Wires go in what order short on the top long on the bottom?
Nice video man
Mine have so much build up on them :(
Good tutorial! I hope that guy sanded his spoiler down haha
DailyDrivenDeathTraps haha yeah he did, just wanted to embarrass him lol thank you!!
Would these be the culprit of car constantly stalling out?
How many VANOS solenoids are there?
2 on each side total of 4.
Idling is the torque converter.
Torque converter is part of the automatic transmission. If the car is in park the torque converter is not even being driven by the engine.
It’s not the torque converter
Thanks bro
Your timing chain guides need to be changed sir
IVM maybe
Hey My 6Series is having a rough Idle & Engine Die...Could the Vanos Solenoid Cause this Issue? I Recently changed the Battery. I Also Heard It Could be IBS Sensor
Did you register the battery? When mine wasnt registered in my 545i/6 it would die occasionally idling
@@amritdhaliwal7531 wait what?
Yeah that’s it I’ve had it , I’m selling my bmw
You don’t like something that you can’t even hear? Sounds like your being picky bro. But thanks for the lesson.
Plugs go in a certain order
Those are $10.00 each on eBay. Just replace them all for $40.00. 😏
Those are some dogshit solenoids for $10
How does your throttle response change? And improvement?
It’s simple it’s alway a little vacuum leak I no everything about these engines had mines for 15 years vacuum leak vacuum leak vacuum leak and don’t forget overtime the valve cover shrink u will never no until u change it
To check VANOS you just have to read live data in INPA. Going around having no idea what is the problem is kinda waste of time and money if you start trowing parts on it. First find where is the problem (with diagnostic) than try to figure out what is causing it and than start working under the hood. What you are doing is kinda childish approach.