My friends and I distinguish between "period" and "perioid" (peer-ee-oyd; -oid is a suffix meaning "like", but implying an incomplete or imperfect resemblance). For performance [I'm part of a medieval/renaissance vocal ensemble that sometimes performs in historical attire], there's also the "ten foot rule" - if no one (i.e. the audience) can tell from 10 ft away that it's wrong/out of period/modern, it's close enough!
I was thinking tonight about who I'd make ... Bernadette already did a fantastic Lady Sherlock so "great mouse detective" is out. Anita from 101 Dalmatians is fabulous but i kind of already dress like her and she's not fancy. I finally came around to Maid Marian from Robin Hood -- late 13th century nobility would be SO fun to do!
i saw an artist draw 'disney princesses but they're dressed as the year they came out in' once and i think that would probably be a very fun little project
Looks beautiful! I love silk dupioni - I made my eldest daughter’s wedding dress with it.I ordered a whole bolt from a little old fashioned local fabric store and I felt so extravagant doing that. It was 10 meters and I paid $200 for it. She had picked a picture from a photography magazine. The ad was for film, not for the gown so I only had the back view and the bride was running so there was lots of flying by the seat of our pants. I’m impressed with your little buttons. My daughters dress had the buttons one directly after the others so it was a lot. I wish I had seen y,our button method back then because the little covered button kits were terrible and several came apart during the reception - not good. Can’t wait for the skirts!
daisy viktoria's bunadsliv for Elsa was fun too, since it was made as a folk dress and not an upper class or court dress 🥰 but all of these dresses are beautiful and every time a new video comes out I'm so excited! I'll be sad when this event is over :'(
Drag lines or not, that is a fantastic bodice! The texture of the silk adds to Jane's rustic/ rough-around-the-edges aesthetic. I love it! Keep up the great work!
Hmmmmm Cinderella's shiny/sparkly white dress at the end of the movie would be a pretty significant challenge, if you're up for it. Or you could go with Madame Adelaide Bonfamille from The Aristocats, too, or try to find something of the fancy clothes worn by Mrs. Packard at the end of Atlantis: The Lost Empire lol
I know she was a real person so there's be actual photographic proof of dresses she wore as a child, but I'd like to see historical versions of Anastasia's dresses from the movie!
OMG! All of Costube is doing historical Disney! WHERE IS THE PLAYLIST SO I CAN FIND THEM ALL?! These are so cool and I love how all of costube has collectively decided to do this, even in times like these.
Historically adequate is an understatement. It is absolutely stunning!!! Wearing something white underneath will disguise the button hole gaps. Can't wait to watch you make the skirts and see the final costume xxx
@@ioanabaja2339 - Probably, but I wouldn’t want to pad my waist. The goal is to make that look as small as possible. Also, I love your profile picture.
Bit of heavy paper between fashion fabric and seam being pressed helps prevent seam line, dart, etc showing through. An envelope or folded paper works.....☺️
@@CatsCostumery Also, if you have one of those big metal hem pressing guides, like the Dritz Ezy Hem Gauge, you can insert it between the seam allowance and the top fabric and press it that way.
I see we use the same pinking "technique" = up up up in the air! 😆 Fortunately I haven't that problem with sewing needles because I have at least 40 of them. A problem I _do_ have though is when I lose them and have to "find" them with my butt in the sofa.
You could have a notebook for writing down what you recently filmed! I have lots of memory issues and I think it's always more helpful to find solutions than to just power through sometimes
The seam allowance mark might occur because all the layer of it were cut the the same length. You might want to cut them like a "stairs", meaning the top one is the shortest, then interlining is a bit longer and last layer even longer or not cut at all. I'm sorry I was wasn't clear 😅 The bodice looks very nice!
Your Panics in Sewing so reminds me of my daughter and will tell you the same thing I told her. Use a life line call a friend!! I always feel bad that you’re in a panic and we’re not in a position to help. There’s a fray check like stuff that says it drys soft. I haven’t tried it just noticed it in a shop while looking for something else. I’m sure if that if there’s stuff like that in my random Canadian shop that you can find some too. Love how the bodice looks. You have done an amazing job. Looking forward to seeing the completed outfit!!
Yes!!!! I love your version of Jane!!! Shes one of my favorite heroines and youve done a wonderful job on making her. Historically adequate is such a great motto and I love this so much!!
This week has brought us historical Snow White, Belle, Jane, and Maleficient. Last week was Princess Anna. Recent past was Queen Elsa. Mary Poppins, Merida, and Cinderella are soon to come. Will all of you *please* do a pass the brush compilation video when you're done?! Update: Rapunzel is out too! OMG creators pleasepleasepleasepleaseplease make this happen!!!
Loved that more vlog-y style rather than the voice-over, it let us see more of your personality and I think it's really cute and lovely how you explain things more casually :)
I love this fabric! I cannot believe someone would call it 'imperfect'. I had t rewind a few times because I wasn't listening, just admiring the fabric!
If I buy 2 needles which are sworn to be identical, one or the other still becomes the favorite. How can it look like a needle and actually function as re-bar? One of life's mysteries.
I’ve been watching this Disney challenge content and it’s been fun. I grew up at my mom’s knee as she sewed almost daily, into the evenings after work and dinner. Sewing was her passion and she loved it. She would have loved this challenge! She had her own sewing room after my brother left for college. I have so many memories of trimming out the patterns and watching her lay all the pieces out so there no loss in fabric! She was a master of her craft!! (She bought me the same vintage Singer that you have for $25.) ❤️
This is amazing... I am inspired. I always loved Megara from Hercules and now I think I will make a historical Megara costume with some linen. I studied ancient Greco-Roman art while getting my art degree and have some good source material for peplos and togas. This is so neat, I am really floored to see the costubers working on this project together!
I really appreciate that you keep in things like your thread getting caught on corners or pins. Makes me feel less silly when it happens to me so much. Also don’t worry about being a fast seamstress! You look like you’re having an absolute ball in that sing along bit and that’s the most important thing. I can never sing and sew either
I'm so glad I'm not the only 0ne with a favorite needle. My blackwork embroidery project turned my favorite embroidery needle black so it makes it easier to find now 😉 I love Jane so much. After your last video I got on the truly Victorian website and looked at patterns, this jacket was one of them. It occurs to me that it would take me a year from Starr to finish to make a historically accurate Jane. That would be for everything though. The shift and corset, the bustle, the petty coats, and the actual dress itself. I've never made a corset before and currently working on a pair of stays. Still i looked at a lot of old safari pictures from the time era and thought of perhaps a mire practical ensemble for Jane for stomping around through the jungle to study gorillas. Maybe just the walking skirt that I already had and a light weight blouse paired off with a belt and a removable collar. It would be be historically accurate, just nit as fun or silly as wearing a full bustle in the jungle. Anyways I do love how that is turning out. I love the color choice. It goes beautifully with your completion. I really can't wait to see the finished product now. Its going to be so much fun. 😁❤❤
This looks so good! Can't wait to see the whole thing finished. I'm learning so much from watching your videos, I also think you have the patience of a Saint doing all those butten holes by hand. I'm just starting my own but because I have to be weird I'm doing a Giger's alien inspired 1890s walking suit. I'm justifying it by saying Disney own the rights to the alien franchise so tenchically the alien is a Disney princess 😂
This is so awesome! Can't wait to see the multiple skirts (no pressure, though. Take your time). It is so cool to see your take on creating: "Mhhh, that doesn't fit perfectly... oh well." Inspiring. If I would make a historical Disney costume, I think I would go with either Hades or Jasmine.
Honestly, this would probably look stunning even with a pair of jeans and a nice pair of boots too. It's not just restricted to when you want to go full historical outfit which I honestly love.
I have found that trimming the seam allowance to 1/4" (or as close as you are comfortable to the seam) before folding over and pressing on items like collars and cuffs. For curvy seams that need boning and you don't want to use spiral steel, either because you don't want the added weight or you just don't like it, I like to use synthetic boning (plastic boning/zip ties); they give the same amount of bend without the weight. I love how you made your buttons! I hadn't thought of whip-stitching around the buttonholes before using the buttonhole stitch. The swallowtail at the back of the bodice looks really cute over the bustle! Perhaps for your next bodice, instead of adding a full 1/2" to the seam allowance already included in the pattern, add 1/4" for a total of 3/4". Maybe that way your seams won't have as much bulk in them that needs trimming back. --Lyssa WA, USA
Very nice! I'm also thinking about making a historically accurate Jane costume and it is really neat seeing the direction you took with yours! The fabrics and colors you chose look lovely together
Your sewing machine brings back so many happy memories for me. My Nan had one exactly the same, which eventually became my first machine when she gave up home dressmaking. *happy sigh* 😍
Protip for the seam allowance on the shawl showing through: 1. I was taught to always interline the piece that will be on the outside of the finished garment. This is because this side will always look a bit better than the one without interling and it helps to disguise the seam allowance underneath 2. As someone else already metioned, cut the seam allowances back in layers so they don't all end in the exact same spot. I always leave the one that will be upmost on the finisched piece the longest and cut the other ones to be narrower. If you do it in this way that longer seam allowance will disguise all the other edges form the ones underneath. I also laughed so hard when I saw that you use the exact same patterns I use for my journeyman piece XD
I had forgotten how much I love this pattern. I made it years ago in simple black with black velvet for the collar and cuffs, and it's such a versatile design. I love how your color blocking gives the impression of a shirt and jacket in one. The contrast lining on the tails highlights the interesting shape really nicely. If I recall correctly, I added a waist tape secured at the back and sides to hook closed and keep the back pulled in tight without adding strain to the center front or having to make the bodice itself tighter.
I have that machine. It was my very first machine and it still works. Lovey work so far. I often make my bodice first too because it could be worn history bounding with another skirt or even trousers for a male inspired look.
Very beautiful! I can't tell you how impressed i am. I only sew very simple things, but I've ventured into Barbie clothes. Now I'm inspired to do something proper for my princesses! All be it...super simple but beautiful fabrics.
Love the slubby silk. It’s so pretty 😍 the bodice turned out very nice, I like those colors together. Can’t wait to see the skirts. 🙂. I love your sewing machine. I have a 301A and a 401A and a Damascus treadle machine. Keep them clean and oiled and they last so much longer than the new ones. 💫😁
Personally, I'm loving that all you costubers are doing this right now because I discovered it just as I've begun making a Pocahontas-inspired dress. Buckskin is hella expensive and impractical, so mine is made of cotton with macrame fringe, lol.
I wonder if adding an extension to the 'vest' panel with the buttons, and possibly even boning it, would get rid of the show-through of the void under the buttonholes. If it's done neatly, it will look as though you planned it all along. And the boning will help support the buttonholes and keep everything nice and flat. I think you should definitely pad out the creases where the corset creates that divot. A smooth contour is essential to this look, I think. I think you should modify the collar slightly, so that it is visually 'centered'. Now that you have the whole bodice completed, it might be worthwhile to go ahead and redo the collar, and to cut it long enough so that you can end it where you want on both sides.
Another option to help minimize the wrinkling on the upper bust from the armscye is to add shoulder pads. Because you also have wrinkling across the back in the same area. So you can add thin but stiff shoulder pads to help lift up the shoulder seam.
@@rachelboersma-plug9482 for a finished garment, no. The fit issue seams to be the height of the armhole is too tall. He knows when she pulled up the bodice from the shoulders the bus fit just fine.
@@rachelboersma-plug9482 I'm a very big proponent of shoulder pads. They get a bad rap because of oversized shoulder pads especially during the '80s. But I found vintage shoulder pads that are an eighth of an inch thick but very stiff and those work wonders. Shoulder pads are sized and shapes depending on the silhouette you're trying to achieve. So someone with very slope shoulders needs thicker shoulder pads and someone with very straight shoulders. Also if you're trying to make your shoulders look whiter you would need to use shoulder pads to help support the extended shoulder seam and sleeve head. Also with shoulder pads you can go crazy with flares, curves and wicked peaks.
TO help stop the seam allowance showing through when you press it, you can 1- grade the seam allowance which means trim one of them a little shorter than the other so that there's not a sudden drop so to speak and 2- press on a slightly cushioned surface which sort of supports the non-seam allowance backed part of the the fabric
Beautiful! Suggestion for finding your favorite needle: sew a button with very large holes onto your pincushion, then always place your needle in the button hole so you can find it again.
my ideal historical disney cosplay would probably be a parti-color medieval dress for aurora. i had a doll with both dresses as a kid and hated having to choose
I loved seeing you thread your machine! I have my mum's 1961 Bernina myself, which seems so much more modern than your Singer in terms of how you thread it - but these old-ish sewing machines really are some sturdy beasts.
Looks so good! You do not see enough Tarzan creations out there. I know it’s not originally Disney but, I’ve been dancing around with the thought of a historically accurate Anya/Anastasia pre princess lessons or Rasputin for a few months. Also been tempted by Hunchback (partly since I have somethingrelated in the works already. Another I’ve been strongly considering is one from Atlantis
Beautifully done! My tip for the bulky/visible seam allowances (someone else might have mentioned it already though). I assume, based on the pinking later in the video, that you didn't stagger the seam allowance in the collar. That'd definitely be my number one go to when you get several layers of fabric and they're all or mostly thicker than voile, lawn or dupioni. I don't want to assume whether you know how to stagger seam allowances or not but if you don't: It's as simple as cutting the seam allowances down to different widths, with the one closest to whatever layer is visible of the garment being the shortest. For a collar, the S/A closest to the top layer of fabric is the shortest. For S/As hidden inside a garment that is lined, the shortest of the S/As would be the one closest to the lining as to not create discomfort. It does take longer, individually shortening each layer's S/A but it's well worth it in the final look. (Explaining without visual aid is not my strong suit. Sorry!) Additional tip for the interested! For the S/A of curved seams where you might normally snip in or notch the S/A, you can also cut the S/A into small half-moons, 1-2 in (2.5-5cm) in lenght. Aim for the dips, or points of the moon, to be on any spot where the S/A otherwise might bunch up. I.E. where you'd notch it to minimise bulk. This would be more likely to require the bones to have their own finished casings though that get stitched down more to the interlining than the S/A.
Beautiful work! On the seam allowance indentation, I've seen professional/industry-employed seamstresses in videos use what looks to be a piece of stiff (or stiffened) thick fabric along seams (specifically between seams and the outward-facing fabric) when pressing. It appears to keep the seam allowance from making an indent, so you could try something like that. I'm not sure what kind of fabric it is, but I imagine if you used similar material to what a pressing cloth might be made out of, it could work. I think in your case, you would put it between the outer fabric and the seam allowance. I think it would just need to be thick enough fabric to not make an indent through that as well. I haven't tried this myself, though, so I can't be sure it would work!
I am in love with this ❤️. I am also someone who chooses to hand sew when I have a perfectly good machine to use. Idk something about having something to do with my hands and having more control over what happens (especially when it comes to button holes on my machine 🤨)
Seam allowance indentation options: Flatline the top of the collar, sew the seam, then trim the seam to three depths--the LONGEST should be on top, closest to the front of the collar, then the middle depth would be the flatlining fabric, the shortest is the undercollar. This way the seam is padded at different depths.
I feel u with the whole center front dilemma. I’m using an 1880s bodice pattern front truly Victorian and had to add an inch so it would close which was weird bc it fit perfectly everywhere else
You have some of the neatest hand stitching I've ever seen. And you make it look easy. When you fitted the bodices it really brought the character to life. The color combination is lovely.
Maybe a fisheye dart (similar to fix for swayback) might have helped to reduce some of the waist wrinkling. It's so frustrating to get that far in a garment and get into an issue you aren't sure how to fix. It looks great!
To help with seeing your seam Allowence on the collar , if you variate your seams you won’t see it as much , cut each seam an 8th of inch smaller than the last , then it’s not just one big seam it will grade down an not be so bulky 😍😍
![Historical Disneybound Snow White - but make it Viking [CC]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/udBnifUUiZM/mqdefault.jpg)
‘Historically Adequate’ is my new motto
It's driving my costume builds
The moment I heard "historically accurate', my heart sang :> and I am going to definitely add it to my lexicon.
My friends and I distinguish between "period" and "perioid" (peer-ee-oyd; -oid is a suffix meaning "like", but implying an incomplete or imperfect resemblance).
For performance [I'm part of a medieval/renaissance vocal ensemble that sometimes performs in historical attire], there's also the "ten foot rule" - if no one (i.e. the audience) can tell from 10 ft away that it's wrong/out of period/modern, it's close enough!
*adequate
YESSSS, I am HERE for delicious bodice content 😍
instablaster.
I was thinking tonight about who I'd make ... Bernadette already did a fantastic Lady Sherlock so "great mouse detective" is out. Anita from 101 Dalmatians is fabulous but i kind of already dress like her and she's not fancy. I finally came around to Maid Marian from Robin Hood -- late 13th century nobility would be SO fun to do!
i saw an artist draw 'disney princesses but they're dressed as the year they came out in' once and i think that would probably be a very fun little project
Is it just me, or has 1880s been a very popular decade for 2021 so far? Absolutely love it! Beautiful dress and very helpful video :)
If I were to make a historical Disney cosplay, I think I’d go for Ursula. She’s my favourite Disney character.
wait,,,,,, that's big brain,,,,,
Belle is my favorite, but soo over done.
YES.
Do it!
I'm working on 18th century Ursula (who I've lovingly nicknamed Marie Ursula)
Looks beautiful! I love silk dupioni - I made my eldest daughter’s wedding dress with it.I ordered a whole bolt from a little old fashioned local fabric store and I felt so extravagant doing that. It was 10 meters and I paid $200 for it. She had picked a picture from a photography magazine. The ad was for film, not for the gown so I only had the back view and the bride was running so there was lots of flying by the seat of our pants. I’m impressed with your little buttons. My daughters dress had the buttons one directly after the others so it was a lot. I wish I had seen y,our button method back then because the little covered button kits were terrible and several came apart during the reception - not good.
Can’t wait for the skirts!
That is amazing!
OMG its disney week and I am here for it!! You, Enchanted Rose, Karolyna...you girls rock
With Nicole doing maleficent I for real I though I missed the Disney week memo!
@@sharacasey4071 I didn't know Nicole and now I know because of your comment. Thank you!
Also Sewstine with her art noveu Anna!
Opus Elenae started the theme. I like her channel too.
daisy viktoria's bunadsliv for Elsa was fun too, since it was made as a folk dress and not an upper class or court dress 🥰 but all of these dresses are beautiful and every time a new video comes out I'm so excited! I'll be sad when this event is over :'(
Drag lines or not, that is a fantastic bodice! The texture of the silk adds to Jane's rustic/ rough-around-the-edges aesthetic. I love it! Keep up the great work!
Kudos for working with silk! Still enjoy my cottons and polyesters!🥰👍😁🍻
Hmmmmm Cinderella's shiny/sparkly white dress at the end of the movie would be a pretty significant challenge, if you're up for it. Or you could go with Madame Adelaide Bonfamille from The Aristocats, too, or try to find something of the fancy clothes worn by Mrs. Packard at the end of Atlantis: The Lost Empire lol
I know she was a real person so there's be actual photographic proof of dresses she wore as a child, but I'd like to see historical versions of Anastasia's dresses from the movie!
There is a Video by mina le about how the movie Anastasia is oriented on real historical fashion, so it is pretty accurate already ^.^
I love how this turned out, and I'm loving all the Disney content!
I'm actually in the process of making an 18th Century Tinkerbell!
Tinkerbell as a turn of the century vaudeville dancer is something I suddenly need to behold
@@JJoy-bk8yr Oh, I bet that would be amazing!
OMG! All of Costube is doing historical Disney! WHERE IS THE PLAYLIST SO I CAN FIND THEM ALL?! These are so cool and I love how all of costube has collectively decided to do this, even in times like these.
i mean, one is here ^.^' th-cam.com/video/nVftVutRvRE/w-d-xo.html
Abby says that Nicole has a playlist...
Noelle @ costuming drama (I think that’s right) has one..
'slap them together with a whipstitch' is certainly how I feel I sew a lot of the time
Historically adequate is an understatement. It is absolutely stunning!!! Wearing something white underneath will disguise the button hole gaps. Can't wait to watch you make the skirts and see the final costume xxx
You could use fish darts to take care of those wrinkles at the side. I have a pretty severe hip spring, so I always have to use fish.
Could some padding also help out a bit?
@@ioanabaja2339 - Probably, but I wouldn’t want to pad my waist. The goal is to make that look as small as possible. Also, I love your profile picture.
Bit of heavy paper between fashion fabric and seam being pressed helps prevent seam line, dart, etc showing through. An envelope or folded paper works.....☺️
That’s a great tip, thank you!
@@CatsCostumery Also, if you have one of those big metal hem pressing guides, like the Dritz Ezy Hem Gauge, you can insert it between the seam allowance and the top fabric and press it that way.
@cat's costumery, or a lightweight washcloth can help if you don't have paper handy.
Phil Collins "You'll be in my ❤️" for the guess to what you are singing to.
All of my favorite sewing crafters are making disney dresses I wish you all could group up for photos it would be amazing!
Perhaps if Sewing College regroups after the pandemic
I see we use the same pinking "technique" = up up up in the air! 😆
Fortunately I haven't that problem with sewing needles because I have at least 40 of them. A problem I _do_ have though is when I lose them and have to "find" them with my butt in the sofa.
That or feet in the carpet 😂
My specialty is to find anything spilled on the floor with my sockets. :-)
My roommate did a "historical" Jane for halloween. I'm so here for this party. :)
You could have a notebook for writing down what you recently filmed! I have lots of memory issues and I think it's always more helpful to find solutions than to just power through sometimes
Love it! I’m really excited to see the whole outfit together. That color combination could not be more perfect, and the bodice is just too cute!
My cat was alarmed by the bobbin threading, hahaha! The bodice looks great!
The seam allowance mark might occur because all the layer of it were cut the the same length. You might want to cut them like a "stairs", meaning the top one is the shortest, then interlining is a bit longer and last layer even longer or not cut at all. I'm sorry I was wasn't clear 😅 The bodice looks very nice!
Your Panics in Sewing so reminds me of my daughter and will tell you the same thing I told her. Use a life line call a friend!! I always feel bad that you’re in a panic and we’re not in a position to help.
There’s a fray check like stuff that says it drys soft. I haven’t tried it just noticed it in a shop while looking for something else. I’m sure if that if there’s stuff like that in my random Canadian shop that you can find some too.
Love how the bodice looks. You have done an amazing job. Looking forward to seeing the completed outfit!!
Yes!!!! I love your version of Jane!!! Shes one of my favorite heroines and youve done a wonderful job on making her. Historically adequate is such a great motto and I love this so much!!
This week has brought us historical Snow White, Belle, Jane, and Maleficient. Last week was Princess Anna. Recent past was Queen Elsa. Mary Poppins, Merida, and Cinderella are soon to come. Will all of you *please* do a pass the brush compilation video when you're done?!
Update: Rapunzel is out too! OMG creators pleasepleasepleasepleaseplease make this happen!!!
which channels are you following? karolina zebrowska, enchanted rose, cat, bernadette and whom else? :)
oh, also merida is being done, by customing drama ^_^
Bella Mae movie Cinderella ball gown... Nicole Rudolph Maleficent...
@@thebookwyrmslair6757 OMG how did I forget Cinderella?! Updating that post...
@@ichsehnursoaus Oh dang, update time!
Loved that more vlog-y style rather than the voice-over, it let us see more of your personality and I think it's really cute and lovely how you explain things more casually :)
OMG Yes I too have a favorite needle! and I am also covered with thread bits 80% of the time..... and live it😇
8:00 *gentle instrumental* vvvvvrrrrROOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM *gentle instrumental*
I feel like this juxtaposition is the sewing expectation vs reality meme 😂
It's looking so good already, can't wait for the skirts.
I hear you about the struggles of being short waisted!
Allow me to introduce myself, the woman who is all torso! “Long waisted” doesn’t begin to cover it!😭
“Panics in sewing”...my life explained...
I love this fabric! I cannot believe someone would call it 'imperfect'. I had t rewind a few times because I wasn't listening, just admiring the fabric!
If I buy 2 needles which are sworn to be identical, one or the other still becomes the favorite. How can it look like a needle and actually function as re-bar? One of life's mysteries.
I’ve been watching this Disney challenge content and it’s been fun. I grew up at my mom’s knee as she sewed almost daily, into the evenings after work and dinner. Sewing was her passion and she loved it. She would have loved this challenge! She had her own sewing room after my brother left for college. I have so many memories of trimming out the patterns and watching her lay all the pieces out so there no loss in fabric! She was a master of her craft!! (She bought me the same vintage Singer that you have for $25.) ❤️
This is perfect for Jane, you can instantly tell who it's supposed to be! That fabric and combination was a great choice :D
This is amazing... I am inspired. I always loved Megara from Hercules and now I think I will make a historical Megara costume with some linen. I studied ancient Greco-Roman art while getting my art degree and have some good source material for peplos and togas. This is so neat, I am really floored to see the costubers working on this project together!
I really appreciate that you keep in things like your thread getting caught on corners or pins. Makes me feel less silly when it happens to me so much.
Also don’t worry about being a fast seamstress! You look like you’re having an absolute ball in that sing along bit and that’s the most important thing.
I can never sing and sew either
I'm so glad I'm not the only 0ne with a favorite needle. My blackwork embroidery project turned my favorite embroidery needle black so it makes it easier to find now 😉 I love Jane so much. After your last video I got on the truly Victorian website and looked at patterns, this jacket was one of them. It occurs to me that it would take me a year from Starr to finish to make a historically accurate Jane. That would be for everything though. The shift and corset, the bustle, the petty coats, and the actual dress itself. I've never made a corset before and currently working on a pair of stays. Still i looked at a lot of old safari pictures from the time era and thought of perhaps a mire practical ensemble for Jane for stomping around through the jungle to study gorillas. Maybe just the walking skirt that I already had and a light weight blouse paired off with a belt and a removable collar. It would be be historically accurate, just nit as fun or silly as wearing a full bustle in the jungle. Anyways I do love how that is turning out. I love the color choice. It goes beautifully with your completion. I really can't wait to see the finished product now. Its going to be so much fun. 😁❤❤
This looks so good! Can't wait to see the whole thing finished. I'm learning so much from watching your videos, I also think you have the patience of a Saint doing all those butten holes by hand.
I'm just starting my own but because I have to be weird I'm doing a Giger's alien inspired 1890s walking suit. I'm justifying it by saying Disney own the rights to the alien franchise so tenchically the alien is a Disney princess 😂
Drooling over that beautiful silk. But not really over it, to the side really.
This is so awesome! Can't wait to see the multiple skirts (no pressure, though. Take your time).
It is so cool to see your take on creating: "Mhhh, that doesn't fit perfectly... oh well." Inspiring.
If I would make a historical Disney costume, I think I would go with either Hades or Jasmine.
Honestly, this would probably look stunning even with a pair of jeans and a nice pair of boots too. It's not just restricted to when you want to go full historical outfit which I honestly love.
I have found that trimming the seam allowance to 1/4" (or as close as you are comfortable to the seam) before folding over and pressing on items like collars and cuffs.
For curvy seams that need boning and you don't want to use spiral steel, either because you don't want the added weight or you just don't like it, I like to use synthetic boning (plastic boning/zip ties); they give the same amount of bend without the weight.
I love how you made your buttons! I hadn't thought of whip-stitching around the buttonholes before using the buttonhole stitch. The swallowtail at the back of the bodice looks really cute over the bustle!
Perhaps for your next bodice, instead of adding a full 1/2" to the seam allowance already included in the pattern, add 1/4" for a total of 3/4". Maybe that way your seams won't have as much bulk in them that needs trimming back. --Lyssa WA, USA
Very nice! I'm also thinking about making a historically accurate Jane costume and it is really neat seeing the direction you took with yours! The fabrics and colors you chose look lovely together
Your sewing machine brings back so many happy memories for me. My Nan had one exactly the same, which eventually became my first machine when she gave up home dressmaking. *happy sigh* 😍
Oh my gosh! So pretty 😍 great job! I can't wait to see the [plural] skirts!
Protip for the seam allowance on the shawl showing through: 1. I was taught to always interline the piece that will be on the outside of the finished garment. This is because this side will always look a bit better than the one without interling and it helps to disguise the seam allowance underneath
2. As someone else already metioned, cut the seam allowances back in layers so they don't all end in the exact same spot. I always leave the one that will be upmost on the finisched piece the longest and cut the other ones to be narrower. If you do it in this way that longer seam allowance will disguise all the other edges form the ones underneath.
I also laughed so hard when I saw that you use the exact same patterns I use for my journeyman piece XD
I am totally in love with the sound of your sewing machine!!!
I had forgotten how much I love this pattern. I made it years ago in simple black with black velvet for the collar and cuffs, and it's such a versatile design. I love how your color blocking gives the impression of a shirt and jacket in one. The contrast lining on the tails highlights the interesting shape really nicely. If I recall correctly, I added a waist tape secured at the back and sides to hook closed and keep the back pulled in tight without adding strain to the center front or having to make the bodice itself tighter.
I have that machine. It was my very first machine and it still works. Lovey work so far. I often make my bodice first too because it could be worn history bounding with another skirt or even trousers for a male inspired look.
Very beautiful! I can't tell you how impressed i am. I only sew very simple things, but I've ventured into Barbie clothes. Now I'm inspired to do something proper for my princesses! All be it...super simple but beautiful fabrics.
Love the slubby silk. It’s so pretty 😍 the bodice turned out very nice, I like those colors together. Can’t wait to see the skirts. 🙂. I love your sewing machine. I have a 301A and a 401A and a Damascus treadle machine. Keep them clean and oiled and they last so much longer than the new ones. 💫😁
Personally, I'm loving that all you costubers are doing this right now because I discovered it just as I've begun making a Pocahontas-inspired dress. Buckskin is hella expensive and impractical, so mine is made of cotton with macrame fringe, lol.
I wonder if adding an extension to the 'vest' panel with the buttons, and possibly even boning it, would get rid of the show-through of the void under the buttonholes. If it's done neatly, it will look as though you planned it all along. And the boning will help support the buttonholes and keep everything nice and flat.
I think you should definitely pad out the creases where the corset creates that divot. A smooth contour is essential to this look, I think.
I think you should modify the collar slightly, so that it is visually 'centered'. Now that you have the whole bodice completed, it might be worthwhile to go ahead and redo the collar, and to cut it long enough so that you can end it where you want on both sides.
Another option to help minimize the wrinkling on the upper bust from the armscye is to add shoulder pads. Because you also have wrinkling across the back in the same area. So you can add thin but stiff shoulder pads to help lift up the shoulder seam.
Wouldn't that have knock-on effects for the fit around the bust and armhole?
@@rachelboersma-plug9482 for a finished garment, no. The fit issue seams to be the height of the armhole is too tall. He knows when she pulled up the bodice from the shoulders the bus fit just fine.
@@doglover1neo Thanks, always glad to add a new fit adjustment technique to the toolbox.
@@rachelboersma-plug9482 I'm a very big proponent of shoulder pads. They get a bad rap because of oversized shoulder pads especially during the '80s. But I found vintage shoulder pads that are an eighth of an inch thick but very stiff and those work wonders.
Shoulder pads are sized and shapes depending on the silhouette you're trying to achieve. So someone with very slope shoulders needs thicker shoulder pads and someone with very straight shoulders. Also if you're trying to make your shoulders look whiter you would need to use shoulder pads to help support the extended shoulder seam and sleeve head.
Also with shoulder pads you can go crazy with flares, curves and wicked peaks.
Yup, I have a favourite sewing needle that I usually stick in the closest roll of thread, and then forget which thread it was! 😁😅
I have such a weakness for Dupioni 😍 and the faults just make it better. I love those back pleats!
I like the color combination, it lovely, and the bodice looks really pretty.
TO help stop the seam allowance showing through when you press it, you can 1- grade the seam allowance which means trim one of them a little shorter than the other so that there's not a sudden drop so to speak and 2- press on a slightly cushioned surface which sort of supports the non-seam allowance backed part of the the fabric
It looks so beautiful! I love the yellow silk and I'm excited to see the finished outfit.
Beautiful! That silk is gorgeous.
I so love this! It turned out so beautifully and so aesthetically Jane, can’t wait for the skirts. I fully support a series of this!
Beautiful! Suggestion for finding your favorite needle: sew a button with very large holes onto your pincushion, then always place your needle in the button hole so you can find it again.
this is a GENIUS idea!
What a cute bodice!! I'm excited to see the skirts!
my ideal historical disney cosplay would probably be a parti-color medieval dress for aurora. i had a doll with both dresses as a kid and hated having to choose
ohhh, it's so smooth and sleek, I love it! and the Flounce in the back is so cute! I can't wait to see the whole ensemble together!
I am so excited to see the finished product! I love the little pleats at the back of the bodice, so stinkin’ cute!
Oh I love how it turned out! I loved Tarzan (and Jane obviously) as a child. I had the PC game and I played it to bits.
I loved seeing you thread your machine! I have my mum's 1961 Bernina myself, which seems so much more modern than your Singer in terms of how you thread it - but these old-ish sewing machines really are some sturdy beasts.
This yellow silk looks just soooo beautiful and brings such an interesting texture to your dress 😍
Looks so good! You do not see enough Tarzan creations out there. I know it’s not originally Disney but, I’ve been dancing around with the thought of a historically accurate Anya/Anastasia pre princess lessons or Rasputin for a few months. Also been tempted by Hunchback (partly since I have somethingrelated in the works already. Another I’ve been strongly considering is one from Atlantis
You look so darn cute. I so enjoyed seeing you having a great time. Have fun Cat!
Oh I just love it so much. It suits you SO well!!
I'm calling Queen - It's a Kinda Magic :D This is all looking fabulous!
to find your favorite needle loop thread through the eye then knot the thread ends together
I loved this! The yellow is so cheerful
That is magnificent! I am so impressed. This also gives me hope that I could actually wear an over-the-hip bodice if I can adjust for a short waist.
Beautiful! That fabric is sumptuous! Looking forward to the skirts.
Beautifully done!
My tip for the bulky/visible seam allowances (someone else might have mentioned it already though).
I assume, based on the pinking later in the video, that you didn't stagger the seam allowance in the collar. That'd definitely be my number one go to when you get several layers of fabric and they're all or mostly thicker than voile, lawn or dupioni.
I don't want to assume whether you know how to stagger seam allowances or not but if you don't:
It's as simple as cutting the seam allowances down to different widths, with the one closest to whatever layer is visible of the garment being the shortest. For a collar, the S/A closest to the top layer of fabric is the shortest. For S/As hidden inside a garment that is lined, the shortest of the S/As would be the one closest to the lining as to not create discomfort. It does take longer, individually shortening each layer's S/A but it's well worth it in the final look.
(Explaining without visual aid is not my strong suit. Sorry!)
Additional tip for the interested! For the S/A of curved seams where you might normally snip in or notch the S/A, you can also cut the S/A into small half-moons, 1-2 in (2.5-5cm) in lenght. Aim for the dips, or points of the moon, to be on any spot where the S/A otherwise might bunch up. I.E. where you'd notch it to minimise bulk. This would be more likely to require the bones to have their own finished casings though that get stitched down more to the interlining than the S/A.
Beautiful work! On the seam allowance indentation, I've seen professional/industry-employed seamstresses in videos use what looks to be a piece of stiff (or stiffened) thick fabric along seams (specifically between seams and the outward-facing fabric) when pressing. It appears to keep the seam allowance from making an indent, so you could try something like that. I'm not sure what kind of fabric it is, but I imagine if you used similar material to what a pressing cloth might be made out of, it could work. I think in your case, you would put it between the outer fabric and the seam allowance. I think it would just need to be thick enough fabric to not make an indent through that as well. I haven't tried this myself, though, so I can't be sure it would work!
I am in love with this ❤️. I am also someone who chooses to hand sew when I have a perfectly good machine to use. Idk something about having something to do with my hands and having more control over what happens (especially when it comes to button holes on my machine 🤨)
Rapunzel. She's definitely in my top 5 favorites
I've used graded seam allowances to minimize the bump when ironing. I'm not sure if it would work with all fabrics, but it has helped me in the past.
Seam allowance indentation options: Flatline the top of the collar, sew the seam, then trim the seam to three depths--the LONGEST should be on top, closest to the front of the collar, then the middle depth would be the flatlining fabric, the shortest is the undercollar. This way the seam is padded at different depths.
you guys have me a bit pumped to do an Elizabethan Dumbo now!
its so pretty, I can't wait to see the skirts video
Honestly been waiting for this installment lol
I feel u with the whole center front dilemma. I’m using an 1880s bodice pattern front truly Victorian and had to add an inch so it would close which was weird bc it fit perfectly everywhere else
The texture on the silk is gorgeous! You could ask me to pay extra for that and I'd be like "yeah cool!"! I can't wait to see the skirts!
You have some of the neatest hand stitching I've ever seen. And you make it look easy. When you fitted the bodices it really brought the character to life. The color combination is lovely.
Cat this is so good!!! And I fully support you in your endeavor to make ALL THE CHARACTERS!!
You are right, that color combination is beautiful!
Trimming the layers of the seam allowance to different lengths helps to get rid of that seam allowance line showing :)
Maybe a fisheye dart (similar to fix for swayback) might have helped to reduce some of the waist wrinkling. It's so frustrating to get that far in a garment and get into an issue you aren't sure how to fix. It looks great!
Wow!! You are an inspiration, I feel want to see my own suit from beauty and the beast!!
This really came out nice! I love the dupioni!! VERY NICE!!!
To help with seeing your seam Allowence on the collar , if you variate your seams you won’t see it as much , cut each seam an 8th of inch smaller than the last , then it’s not just one big seam it will grade down an not be so bulky 😍😍
That looks so good! I love the yellow silk. It's got such a pretty color and great texture!