Revealing and celebrating the body | Fashion Unpicked | Edward Crutchley | V&A
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 มี.ค. 2022
- Revealing and celebrating the male body, Edward Crutchley's flamboyant fashions subvert the history of menswear, disregarding traditional gender norms.
This film takes a detailed look at a sumptuous gown by Crutchley, with a corseted bodice which was inspired by an 18th-century robe à l'anglaise, but adapted to fit a male torso. The dress comes from his Spring/Summer 2022 collection, which references the history of queer spaces in London, and specifically the work of 18th-century textile designer Anna Maria Garthwaite - an outsider working in a male-dominated industry.
Find out more about the Fashioning Masculinities: The Art of Menswear exhibition: www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/fas...
See more in our Fashion collection: www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fas...
I love that Edward is taking some tips form artists of 200 to 300 years ago. It is good to know they have NOT been forgotten but have inspired new art by new artists. Edward, you're adorable! DA
The fabric of this dress is everything !
The cardigan too!
@@vysharra gotta love a good cardie.
This belongs in a museum!
it's ugly
The idea behind it is so beautiful. Making fashion gender-neutral and celebrating the wearer - this is something I always wanted but haven't formulated.
Stunning! The wearer becomes a moving art piece. Women's clothing styles in the 1700's (& earlier in the Tudor era) emphasized a flattened bustline and voluminous hips. This is brilliantly translated into fashion for anyone who loves art in fashion. I adore it!
The fabric is absolutely beautiful
I love this gown, this fashion line has echoes of Billy Porter’s amazing ensembles. I am also thrilled to see modern fabric patterns paying their dues to their historical beginnings. In an original dress the pocket openings would have been concealed in the skirt folds, no pattern match required, as the pockets would have been separate items. I would also have liked to see the under structure of the skirt and how it was holding its shape.
I love the dress, but I'm not in love with the fact he claims to make clothes that are made to be worn by anyone, and he doesn't go beyond a 'medium' in any of the stocked collections I could find.
Love those fabrics. I love how we can now start pushing those boundaries more confidently.
Not sure I like the form of his clothing or think the philosophy of his work is interesting, but the design and result of his fabrics are incredible.
Well I thought I'd get one of those dresses for my next trip to Aldi! I wonder when Primark will be selling similar?
This is just everything I have ever dreamed of wearing. An amazing and beautiful dress. The tailoring is perfect.
That dress is a beautiful work of art.
Again... pockets for men. Give pockets to women as well! And just not slapped on .
Functional pockets in womenswear should also be a part of gender equality in fashion!
No, pockets are what's happened with previous male-focused design...
Arguably, the older style that this is based on allowed pockets for women in most garments. It wasn't until slimmer lines in women's fashion (think around 1900 +/- 10 years) where they started switching to carrying bags to accommodate the popular fashion. Then bags became its own industry.
Vanity pockets became a thing in WW2 when there was rationing on fabrics. I have some suits with vanity pockets even now, but with menswear most pockets returned. With women’s garments, they did not.
Hey women had gigantic pockets in these robes a l’anglaise.
It’s fascinating to hear how the dress was restructured to complement the male form. I never would have thought of that!
I love that he even thought of this, I wish more fashion actually was designed to enhance more than ONE type of body in ONE gender.
Ah. This is fascinating. I love the 18th century inspiration used. I would love to see more of this designer. So often modern fashion has seemed strange for its own sake, but this designer has something significant and relevant to say.
Fabulous! The dress really came to life when in shimmering motion.
A beautiful gown! I also really loved learning about the work of Anna Maria Gathwaite
The copper is so awesome. I love absolutely everything about how this designers mind works.
thanks for Edward Crutchley showing textile designs by Garthwaite ☸️💟
A video on Anna Maria Garthwaite would be interesting
Love ! Sharing this with my Street Styles class at Orange Coast College
Everybody is pushing the boundaries in the fabric and construction and demographic of the wearer, and yet the presentation is still a 20 second walk down a runway. For something that has taken this much time and attention to detail with meticulous craftsmanship, could they not begin to push the boundaries of how the clothes are presented?
I’d love to see have under the dress and it’s construction,I majored in fashion design,many years ago and for me the cutting of the pattern,the toile,and the construction would’ve been fascinating
. Fabulous dress incidentally. 🇨🇦🇺🇦
The sweater Mr. Crutchley is wearing reminds me of a sweater I wore in the mid 80's. Mine had a shawl collar with a deep neckline that had four button double breasted closure in grey and black mohair. I loved that sweater!
Those pockets are fabulous 😍
Interesting to hear Edward's idea that in a show (although it could be film, theatre, TV, art) push the idea as far as you can go then maybe a small element of that will filter through into the mainstream.
Wow! Loved this so much!❤❤❤
stunning! The fabric is very similar to a 1720s gown housed at the MET! The 1720s was the exact time when “Molly Houses” - LGBT bars and restaurants- were at their height. Absolutely wonderful evocation of a queer history
Oh my god a thousand times thank you to Edward Crutchley, the best ever antidote to Beau Brummel who IMO ruined men's fashion for the last 150 years. Much respect to you, you respect your models, you respect what's come before. I'm TOTALLY geeking out and I 100% share your attitude to what fashion is and should be - for everyone to express their personal identity.💋💋❤❤
I tailor bespoke men's historical suits 1890 to 1930. But I also agree with you. The tailoring of the 18th century was crap, but the fabrics were ASTONISHING.
Stunning designs and fascinating to listen to!
Sensational dress and fabric!
So lovely!
Beautiful currents !!!
The dresses are lovely.
Perfect video!
Beautiful fabric.
First, let me say that he garment being featured is absolutely stunning. But...I always get a laugh when designers say that they think the person/creator who inspired them would approve of what they've done. (Perhaps not. It would be so interesting to find out if it was so.)
Fascinating. We are in S.F East Bay. 🌷 Thank you.
HEARTRACINGLY BEAUTIFUL!
Brilliant!
A privilege to create these artwork😍
I wish I could see how that fabric was made
Stunning and beautiful.
I want to see that gown on Lil Nas X on the red carpet at the Grammy’s.
Beautiful dress
Very interesting!
Forget about the dress, I want the cardigan!
I would totally wear that to the supermarket
Brilliant
Might not work so well on a big hairy highlander, love the thistles. Beautiful fabric.
I'd love to see that
The dress is fabulous, would love to see it on a lady also. Your fabric choices are out of this world gorgeous….
Beautiful garment
The shape of the dress is a lot like the infamous red Outlander gown.
Who is this person and where do I find them? Socials? Website??? Company?????
Absolutely stunning garments & fabrics, and a beautiful message.
I am a cis-gender female and I think this dress is stunning and I LOVE that is was designed to be worn by a human - not just a woman. This particular dress was designed for masculine torso shapes. Is this dress also available for breasted women too? Fashion and gender expression have always been untwined and I wish they weren’t. Men need a lot more variety in their formal clothing choices. I am waiting for men to start wearing fascinators.
And it's got pockets!
i'm really glad more designers are working to include people traditionally considered masculine into dialogue about fashion and self expression. i feel like masculine people are often shoved into a box and any attempts to deviate provoke really strong (positive or negative) reactions that are really intimidating for most people who just want to dress and feel beautiful without judgement.
A male focused view of fashion... hasn't fashion design largely been designed by men???
Yes, but I think when he says "a male view of fashion" he means opening doors so that men of different classes, different backgrounds, different sexual orientations can openly take an interest in fashion that's more expressive than whatever sports team they support. Yes, the kind of expression he's talking about has been at least *somewhat* possible for wealthy men for the last fifty years. In general though, the further you go down the socioeconomic ladder though, the less you can play with color, with gender, with silhouette, with different materials, because basically anything within the realm of aesthetics is a "feminine" pursuit.
The hope is that by proposing something as theatrical and classically feminine as a Robe a l'Anglaise recut for the male body, the idea might trickle down so that by the time it's filtered through levels of retail men on the street might feel a bit more liberated to play with their gender, in likely more subtle ways.
@@Bunny-ch2ul
I know what he means. It's just a way to redominate the field by men...
@@b_uppy I read 'male focused view of fashion' as more seeing men as the target audience for the clothes. Most fashion is targeted as very female focused while by comparison a lot of male clothing is quite uninspired
Give me those gold lurex breeches and some honest homespun stockings, *I'll* wear them to the supermarket.
This dress is stunning! I wish more men felt comfortable wearing big, bold, fabulous clothing items like this.
Красиво
Panama
This dress is magnificent. I'm definitely into equality male vs female, but still can't get my head around this opulent dress being worn by any gender.
I find it interesting that so many designers refuse to dress the bodies they themselves (and most people IRL) inhabit, including this guy. There is nothing inherently aesthetically superior about thinness and clinging to it as an aspirational form is both deeply boring and stupidly unethical. I don't have any problem making great pieces for regular people. Interesting that so many still can't manage it.
It has pockets!!!
It's all the fans wanna see
Men should feel able to wear beautiful articles of clothing, too. I know my husband feels sometimes constricted regarding what’s appropriate to wear.
I would love to see a shift away from 'menswear' and 'womenswear' toward 'personwear'. Wear all the things.
I'm a woman in my late 50's, and since my teens, my wardrobe has always included items of men's clothing. Some of my favourite pieces have been a very loud checkered blazer that I wore for a good portion of the 80's, a plain white button up shirt that I found about 100 different ways to wear, various big cozy cardigans, and my favourite pair of jeans EVER. I bought a pair of men's Mexx black jeans about 20 years ago. Never, before or since, has another pair of jeans fit me so perfectly. When they started to get worn out after a few years, I went to buy another pair. And, of course, they didn't make that style anymore, nor did they use that particular fabric anymore. I was wearing holes in them in places that aren't fashionable, like the inside of the legs and on the bum. I tried patching them, but, eventually, the fabric was so thin and worn, it wouldn't even hold the stitches anymore. I wore them as long as I could, and it broke my heart the day I realized that I'd never be able to wear them again.
In all the years that I've worn men's clothes, no one has ever commented on it being weird or wrong or "gay", and I always found it so unfair that the couple of male friends I had who did wear female pieces were subject to all those kinds of comments, and much, much worse.
Clothes are clothes. When my sons (now in their 30's) were little, and wanted a shirt or pair of pants from the girls section, I bought them. When they wanted trucks and Barbie dolls for Christmas, they got both. And they each had a Cabbage Patch Doll that they spent forever picking out...because getting just the right one was a VERY big decision.
I keep hearing "enlightened" people who insist that gender is a social construct, and they refuse to gender their children. But then, they'll go on to assign genders to toys, clothing, and certain activities/sports...getting upset when their son is interested in playing with trucks instead of dolls, or wearing jeans and tee-shirts instead of dresses. If gender is a social construct, then that has to apply to everything, not just people.
Like you said, everyone should be allowed to wear all the things...with absolutely no judgment.
@@Terri_MacKay honestly at this point I'm surprised we haven't made more strides toward just letting people be people. I feel like all of the 'gender barriers' have been broken at this point, and people should be less weird about boys embracing 'feminine' things. But we have made progress, and hopefully we will continue to. I'm sure your sons are much less likely to enforce the strict gender binary with their own children. And I see a lot more acceptance and celebration of boys who don't fit the rigid gender role of decades past. Even things like drag are consumed and respected and applauded in a way that just wasn't something I could have imagined before.
Personwear?! Oh lord... 🙄
@@PixelZan big fan of rigid gender roles, are you sweetheart? 🤨
@@Siansonea no dummy, but men and woman are built differently. I couldn't wear a men's blazer as it would be massive in the shoulders and tight in the hips. The same goes for men's trousers as I have hips and an arse. I can't wait to go looking for an outfit in "personwear" though 🤦🏻♀️
I guess anything can be menswear so long as a man is wearing it.
Humans are hilarious
🤨
Beautiful fabric and craftsmanship but masculine it isn't and i am not a closed minded person.
This is ridiculous
"Anything that I make, it's pretty much intended to be worn by anyone who wants to wear it."
Who? Coked up male strippers? On the other hand, it's nice that couture clothing for men is now as unrealistic and delusional as women's.
I appreciated his honoring of early designers of textiles but why create stuff that can only be seen on a runway or magazine? What a waste..
Did you not see those same fabrics applied to contemporary easy-to-wear garments that he was showing in the later part of the video as well?
gender-neutral, why?
i don't EVER want to see a man out on the street wearing that gorgeous dress. Male "fashion" is already pushing the envelope WAY too far across the line IMO. Let men be men and women be women!
Why are you dressing men in woman’s clothes, fabric beautiful but move on we need something completely new
I feel that way too. I feel like I've had something stolen from me.
I think you are missing the point by describing them as 'women's clothes'
The dresses aren't practical in today's society but they look wonderful on the model's. BTW, I dislike the word "queer". I find it insulting to the homosexual individual. Why do we still need to label anyone? They are men and women not labels.
Because the word 'queer' no longer means just homosexual, but encompasses a multitude of LGBTIA-identities. It's easier and more inclusive to say 'queer' than to go through an entire (and incomplete) acronym.
Please stop getting offended on our behalf.
I feel like I've had something stolen from me. Is this what cultural appropriation feels like.
Can you make something new instead of this? Men take so much from us.
So you don't think men should be allowed to wear dresses?
@@rsmith6366 no, it's just this dress. This dress is cultural. Historical.
So you're saying women shouldn't wear pants of any kind
@@janebaker4912 The historical culture is 18th century Western Europe. It's 300 years on, and we're still in Western Europe. The only thing that's changed is that a man is in the dress now.
Are you okay?
It's a shame these up and coming "artists" never think of the plus size/ disabled communities.
For example they never seem to want to make fashion accessible for anyone that's over a size zero.
All this perticular dude has made is a dress for a man... All that education and money and time, spent making a silly unwearable dress for a dude..... fatphobic and sexist and just plain boring. Not worth all this fuss.
It almost feels like this whole idea about making "inclusive" fashion was just an excuse for him to look at twinks in corsets and dresses 🤷♂️
*THE FABRIC IS CRAP - SORRY* you might like the pattern, but the fabric crapes like a pair of Ikea curtains 5:30
They are trying to be clever and environmentally friendly with lurex and recycled polyester and they just needed to use SILK
the dresses are ok but im pretty sure the male models don't like it 😂
Copycat? Derivative?
Pockets for women in a gown is over rated & stupid . Nothing femme about it.