There were various articles in the Meccanomen's Journal. The main article of interest about the repair and maintenance was in issue 18. A later article (in last edition) found that quieter running was obtained with a DC supply with the addition of a bridge rectifier and a 1000uF 50/63v smoothing capacitor. Might run well with a 12 to 16 volt transformer supply in this case (the earlier 6v motors were run with a 9v AC supply). Current rating for the 15/20 volt motors was around 1 amp. Earlier motors were produced which ran first on 4v then on 6v. Current consumption for the 4v was around 4 amps and the 6v was 2.5 amps. Sealed lead acid batteries could be used with these earlier motors. Controlled and uncontrolled transformers were produced. Some with a multiple output. With the controlled transformers the control was by a lever over an arched set of contact studs. Resistance wire was wired across these studs in a reverse control characteristic. This was due to the quick activation requirements of a solenoid activated reversing mechanism fitted in the Hornby locomotives of the time.
Many thanks for the interesting and thorough information. I am currently looking for a earlier 4 V side plate motor for a suitable restoration project.
@@johnmeccanitian Had one about 28 years ago. Had damaged resin bonded paper sheet holding the brushes that poked through holes in one of the sideplates. Danger here was the shorting risk. The drive shaft was a smaller diameter than standard with a flat disk commutator that did not extend out on both sides and had a non removable pinion gear. The sideplate height was 2 inches.
I recently purchased a pair of 4 volts side plate motors from the early 1920s. Both are practically wrecks. The operating levers, resin paper and some of the brush holders are damaged. I'm hoping to get one working engine by combining and repairing the parts.
@@johnmeccanitian highly tempted my dad made a lovely storage cabinet for all the kit as well. Think I started with a No 6 set then got the upgrades every Christmas. (Don’t remember exactly)
Good job. That's the whole thing in a few minutes! Two little remarks though: it looks to me like you are overly generous with oiling. Eventually the excess will ooze onto the commutator and you,ll be ready for another go. Just a suggestion. The other point is to use a DC power supply , the motor will be be much quieter, and you should have less arcing on the commutator. still running my E20R I got brand new from my father in 1956 because I had an outsanding school report card.
Thank you for the feedback. It's great that you still have the motor in working condition. It was definitely worth focusing on getting good grades in school 😀
After refurbishing the motor, I noticed there were almost none of typical odour of ozone when running the motor. Is it so that the volume of ozone increases when carbon brushes and commutator get dirty? Does anyone know something about this?
Oxygen is converted to ozone when exposed to ultra violet light which is what you get from electrical sparks which is what you get more of when the brush gear is not in good condition.
@@Cooliemasteroz Thanks for the information. The smell of ozone is one important part of the experience of electric motor powered toys like slot car tracks or model railways and of course Meccano motors.
Tengo un motor igual NUEVO de unos Meccanos que nos comprò mi padre QEPD en los 50s , practicamente no se usò ya que solo usabamos el de cuerda , y tengo el motor redondo ademàs del Tranformador para ambos y todos ellos aùn en sus cajas practicamente Nuevos . Eran una preciosidad èstos Meccanos .
Meccano E20R motor can be operate either AC or DC. In this video I used the AC transformer as a power source. I haven't tried using the motor as a generator. Maybe someone else has tested that or can answer your questions better than I can?
Cheers John, that was a great video, perfect way to start a day, tea and meccano restoration.
Nice to hear. I like your mighty Union Jack tea cup.
That's a really well made, informative video. Thank you. I might just have the courage to have a go at a motor of my own following along with it!
Happy to hear! You should really do that. Those E20R motors are nice and easy to maintain.
There were various articles in the Meccanomen's Journal. The main article of interest about the repair and maintenance was in issue 18. A later article (in last edition) found that quieter running was obtained with a DC supply with the addition of a bridge rectifier and a 1000uF 50/63v smoothing capacitor. Might run well with a 12 to 16 volt transformer supply in this case (the earlier 6v motors were run with a 9v AC supply). Current rating for the 15/20 volt motors was around 1 amp. Earlier motors were produced which ran first on 4v then on 6v. Current consumption for the 4v was around 4 amps and the 6v was 2.5 amps. Sealed lead acid batteries could be used with these earlier motors. Controlled and uncontrolled transformers were produced. Some with a multiple output. With the controlled transformers the control was by a lever over an arched set of contact studs. Resistance wire was wired across these studs in a reverse control characteristic. This was due to the quick activation requirements of a solenoid activated reversing mechanism fitted in the Hornby locomotives of the time.
Many thanks for the interesting and thorough information. I am currently looking for a earlier 4 V side plate motor for a suitable restoration project.
@@johnmeccanitian Had one about 28 years ago. Had damaged resin bonded paper sheet holding the brushes that poked through holes in one of the sideplates. Danger here was the shorting risk. The drive shaft was a smaller diameter than standard with a flat disk commutator that did not extend out on both sides and had a non removable pinion gear. The sideplate height was 2 inches.
I recently purchased a pair of 4 volts side plate motors from the early 1920s. Both are practically wrecks. The operating levers, resin paper and some of the brush holders are damaged. I'm hoping to get one working engine by combining and repairing the parts.
Wow, great video! I have one of these motors although in pieces and this video is perfect for restoring it, thanks so much!
Great! Get your motor running again 👍🏼
I miss this company. 😔
Still got mine in the loft boxed as new. Think l got up to the No9 set along some gear sets.
The #9 set is fantastic. Maybe one day you should retrieve them from the attic and build something? I highly recommend it!
@@johnmeccanitian highly tempted my dad made a lovely storage cabinet for all the kit as well. Think I started with a No 6 set then got the upgrades every Christmas. (Don’t remember exactly)
Good job. That's the whole thing in a few minutes! Two little remarks though: it looks to me like you are overly generous with oiling. Eventually the excess will ooze onto the commutator and you,ll be ready for another go. Just a suggestion. The other point is to use a DC power supply , the motor will be be much quieter, and you should have less arcing on the commutator. still running my E20R I got brand new from my father in 1956 because I had an outsanding school report card.
Thank you for the feedback. It's great that you still have the motor in working condition. It was definitely worth focusing on getting good grades in school 😀
I have an E15R. But it's been sat in a shed for years, so probably have to give it some TLC too...
You're absolutely right Alan. These are nice motors to restore.
After refurbishing the motor, I noticed there were almost none of typical odour of ozone when running the motor. Is it so that the volume of ozone increases when carbon brushes and commutator get dirty? Does anyone know something about this?
Oxygen is converted to ozone when exposed to ultra violet light which is what you get from electrical sparks which is what you get more of when the brush gear is not in good condition.
@@Cooliemasteroz Thanks for the information. The smell of ozone is one important part of the experience of electric motor powered toys like slot car tracks or model railways and of course Meccano motors.
@@johnmeccanitian No worries, don't inhale the ozone too much, it's actual bad for your lungs.
Yeah. I know. 🙂
Looks like DC motor?
Meccano E20R motor can be operate either AC or DC. In this video I used the AC transformer as a power source.
Tengo un motor igual NUEVO de unos Meccanos que nos comprò mi padre QEPD en los 50s , practicamente no se usò ya que solo usabamos el de cuerda , y tengo el motor redondo ademàs del Tranformador para ambos y todos ellos aùn en sus cajas practicamente Nuevos . Eran una preciosidad èstos Meccanos .
Recuerdos preciosos! 👍
I’d love some more information about this motor. Is it AC or DC, does it work as a generator as well as a motor? Why is there a coil on the magnets? 🧲
Meccano E20R motor can be operate either AC or DC. In this video I used the AC transformer as a power source. I haven't tried using the motor as a generator. Maybe someone else has tested that or can answer your questions better than I can?
it's a 'universal' motor. no permanent magnets like a dc motor as there is both a stator and rotor coil.