Thank you so much for this information. Never learned more in my entire life just by watching. This was a very informative video and I would recommend it to anyone.
So I noticed you did not install the restricor plate between the carb and the intake. Can I take mine off and see the engine run smoother? I have the aq125a as well
Thanks for making this video. The rough start/idle is exactly what I am dealing with. Out of curiosity, we’re you on the water when you had this issue? I was on the water and could only get about 2500 rpms at WOT. I am wondering if you had the same issue?
Hi, I had this issue when I was on the water. When it passed the idle, it went over 2500 rpm with no problem. It was the rough start/idle that bothered me.
Lots of parts replaced; expensive and time consuming; what was the main problem,and maybe the only problem, there? just a plugged-up idle jet? easiest thing to remove and clean; I say this because,since there is no choke,that was not the procedure to start the engine,you need to inject some fuel first; you do that by disabling the gearing(press in the button on the control lever) and moving the throtle to full and back to idle position a few times prior to starting; ths squirts fuel down into the carb. edit: i have the dual carb setup.
Thank you for watching and commenting! That how I start my other boat, Bayliner Capri (videos FnF387: th-cam.com/video/LC8XNw9lzok/w-d-xo.html, FnF415: th-cam.com/video/_eUesCvXCtM/w-d-xo.html). I think I did the same when starting this Volvo, too.
Thanks for the video! I have a AQ130C with two Solex 44PA carburetors and it is only running on cyl 3/4 most of the time. When I increase throttle, I see gasoline coming from the main discharge on carb 1 (cyl 1/2), it slightly increases RPM but then RPM decreases completely and the engine shuts down. I noticed no fuel coming from the main discharge on carb 2 (cyl 3/4) btw. When I spray brake cleaner in the air intake on carb 1, it runs fine for a second or 2. Spark plugs in cyl 1/2 are dry and white, spark plugs in cyl 3/4 are dry and black. So my guess is the engine is not getting (enough) fuel in cyl 1/2. So something needs cleaning. Is there anything I can try first before actually completely removing the carburetor? If removing the carburetor, would it help to let it soak in white spirit for a night without taking it apart? Thanks for your help!
Rob These aren't very complicated carbs, I open them up and mess around with them all the time at work. Sounds like they definitely need a look through, so I say you have nothing to lose. They still make rebuild kits for these and I don't think they are too expensive. Really the hardest part would be redoing the throttle linkages and new gaskets, but I know the bottom portion is just a throttle body so you might be able to leave most of it in one piece and just clean the float chamber, gas bowl, fuel needles etc with carb cleaner and compressed air.
I'm here because I want to add a dual carb from a PENTA 171 to my VOLVO 240 sedan. Thanks for the thorough process video, not too much skipping over important details.
Love your videos working on this. I just bought an 85’ Volvo penta 270 and im trying to Rosen as much as I can about it. The part that says “no step” is that supposed to be a separate radiator, or is it supposed to mix with the water cooling system that comes up from lake?
Hi, the part that says "no step" is the reservoir of the internal cooling system, having a different loop of coolant (antifreeze) than the water cooling system that comes up from lake. Hope that help!
@@friendnfamily9053 that’s god to know thanks. I dumped radiator fluid in it and it all came out somewhere on the trim. Not exactly sure where. When I went to the lake the engine temp was the same as normal running around 180 degrees
@@juspain1 There is a reservoir/radiator that handles the water cooling system not showing in this video, but can be viewed from this one: FnF336 - Boat 048 - Exhaust Manifold Replacement - Volvo Penta AQ125A, 270 Sterndrive (th-cam.com/video/PPFyNiAxiF8/w-d-xo.html).
Thats a 44 PAI 7, not a 44 PAI
Thanks for making this video.
thanks for video . hvala ...
This is the best video I've seen about Solex Carb. It showed everything we need to see and simple. Good job !!
Thanks!
Thank you so much for this information. Never learned more in my entire life just by watching. This was a very informative video and I would recommend it to anyone.
Elevator music and watching a car by rebuild.... so cathartic. Thanks.
How would one remember how to put it back together????
So I noticed you did not install the restricor plate between the carb and the intake. Can I take mine off and see the engine run smoother? I have the aq125a as well
Thanks for watching and commenting! I would give it a try to see if the engine run smoother.
@@justron25why's that , what's your reasoning??
Thanks for making this video. The rough start/idle is exactly what I am dealing with. Out of curiosity, we’re you on the water when you had this issue? I was on the water and could only get about 2500 rpms at WOT. I am wondering if you had the same issue?
Hi, I had this issue when I was on the water. When it passed the idle, it went over 2500 rpm with no problem. It was the rough start/idle that bothered me.
I have had excatly same problems here, now i order that solex kit. Thanks
Thanks for the video, will think about cleaning carbs on aq170b.
Lots of parts replaced; expensive and time consuming; what was the main problem,and maybe the only problem, there? just a plugged-up idle jet? easiest thing to remove and clean;
I say this because,since there is no choke,that was not the procedure to start the engine,you need to inject some fuel first; you do that by disabling the gearing(press in the button on the control lever) and moving the throtle to full and back to idle position a few times prior to starting; ths squirts fuel down into the carb.
edit: i have the dual carb setup.
Thank you for watching and commenting! That how I start my other boat, Bayliner Capri (videos FnF387: th-cam.com/video/LC8XNw9lzok/w-d-xo.html, FnF415: th-cam.com/video/_eUesCvXCtM/w-d-xo.html). I think I did the same when starting this Volvo, too.
I also have the side drafts, but I thought you’re supposed to leave that button popped out on the throttle shifter when priming the carbs?
Thanks for the video!
I have a AQ130C with two Solex 44PA carburetors and it is only running on cyl 3/4 most of the time. When I increase throttle, I see gasoline coming from the main discharge on carb 1 (cyl 1/2), it slightly increases RPM but then RPM decreases completely and the engine shuts down. I noticed no fuel coming from the main discharge on carb 2 (cyl 3/4) btw. When I spray brake cleaner in the air intake on carb 1, it runs fine for a second or 2. Spark plugs in cyl 1/2 are dry and white, spark plugs in cyl 3/4 are dry and black.
So my guess is the engine is not getting (enough) fuel in cyl 1/2. So something needs cleaning. Is there anything I can try first before actually completely removing the carburetor? If removing the carburetor, would it help to let it soak in white spirit for a night without taking it apart?
Thanks for your help!
Rob
These aren't very complicated carbs, I open them up and mess around with them all the time at work. Sounds like they definitely need a look through, so I say you have nothing to lose. They still make rebuild kits for these and I don't think they are too expensive. Really the hardest part would be redoing the throttle linkages and new gaskets, but I know the bottom portion is just a throttle body so you might be able to leave most of it in one piece and just clean the float chamber, gas bowl, fuel needles etc with carb cleaner and compressed air.
Where can I find that air filter
I'm here because I want to add a dual carb from a PENTA 171 to my VOLVO 240 sedan. Thanks for the thorough process video, not too much skipping over important details.
I got a dual carb set up I might be v8 swapping mine in a few months
@@Turbotalkin You let me know if you want to sell the carbs.
Thank you for watching and for commenting!
How long did the entire job actually take?
Hi, I think it took about 3 hours.
Love your videos working on this. I just bought an 85’ Volvo penta 270 and im trying to Rosen as much as I can about it. The part that says “no step” is that supposed to be a separate radiator, or is it supposed to mix with the water cooling system that comes up from lake?
Hi, the part that says "no step" is the reservoir of the internal cooling system, having a different loop of coolant (antifreeze) than the water cooling system that comes up from lake. Hope that help!
@@friendnfamily9053 that’s god to know thanks. I dumped radiator fluid in it and it all came out somewhere on the trim. Not exactly sure where. When I went to the lake the engine temp was the same as normal running around 180 degrees
@@juspain1 There is a reservoir/radiator that handles the water cooling system not showing in this video, but can be viewed from this one: FnF336 - Boat 048 - Exhaust Manifold Replacement - Volvo Penta AQ125A, 270 Sterndrive (th-cam.com/video/PPFyNiAxiF8/w-d-xo.html).
What RPM is your idle at after the rebuild? Mine doesn't want to idle below 1,000 RPMs after carb clean
Hi, I didn't have a working tachometer, but I think it was below 1,000 RPMs from the sound of it.
@@friendnfamily9053 yeah mine used to 750/800 before rebuilding carb...now it 1000/1100 . Thanks for the response
@@crash41899you can adjust your idle speed
Hi
What kind of cleaning spray do you use
Thanks
Hi, You can use break cleaner.
@@friendnfamily9053brake