1. Buy cheap low-quality set with plenty of bits 2. As soon as one of the cheap bits starts dulling or looks worn, replace it with an individual high end one. That way, you always have all the bits you need, and the ones you use often will quickly be replaced by more durable ones.
I have been practicing this with all my tools, like sockets, ratchets, screwdrivers, drill bits etc. Once one go, I replace that one with branded one and still have full set.
It is genuinely surprising that I have not seen this basic information covered by anyone else. Thank you. Also enjoyed this guy's delivery/voice as well as the information. More please.
In my experience cheaper bits can last a long time if you don't abuse them and look after them properly. With complex or large profiles I never try taking everything off with a single pass and usually it's two or three passes to get down to the required depth. Multiple passes always gives a smoother result. At the end of the day I always clean my bits. No matter what they cost they get hot in use and tannin builds up on them whether they be good carbide or 'bad.' This has to be removed if you want a consistent clean cut as tannin build up causes 'burning' (smoking) when you try to cut a profile, slot etc.
Good info. I started with a $50 set, and it was almost useless. The round over bits were the only ones I used out of it. I'm a luthier, and for me I have a slightly odd set compared to some people. I only use chamfer, round over, rabbiting, and flush cut bits.
I'd just like to add a pattern or a flush trim bit. Obviously, it's going to depend upon the woodworker and type of project, but i use a flush trim bit all the time because of how often i'm using two or more types of wood that i'm joining. It's nice to be able to be a bit sloppy on your dimensions, and quickly cut it all flush with the router.
Cheap sets are a good way to try different bits and when starting out. Sure they won't last forever but some you will use seldom and the ones you use regularly you replace with better quality when they wear out.
Good information for a router novice. Wish I had this 20 years ago. Cant really argue. Most of the other bits really are for specific applications where as those five scaled one way or another will do 95% of your projects just fine.
For the price of buying individual bits vs a set, it would be better for a beginner to buy a set. A good rabbeting bit alone can be upwards of $50 by itself. It's significantly cheaper and it gives them other options to experiment with and play around with set ups and profiles. Then as those bits wear out/break, start buying better individual bits.
If you get a larger router it will often come with two or more collets of different sizes. Mine came with 1/4", 8mm and 1/2". It's easy to get them confused and you won't need all of them so put one of them, in my case I chose the 8mm, in a labelled bag and store it away. You're left with two easily recognised collets so you won't accidentally use the wrong shank size.
Great info. I just bought a Bosch PDF 1200AE Router but there is no Table or much with it. Will take all your info. on board and follow it up via the Shop. I go along with the set You recommended but am only at best an old handyman that is scared of Routers.
Great info and thank you! I find if you bit the pullet and pay for a good bit, it'll payoff in the long run. I do a lot of box joints on my router table and most of the cheaper bits don't last long at all. also, I made the mistake of not having the 1/2 inch collet option on my router table. Now, i have to buy another router.
I’m a newbie and I’m not setting out to make the amazing furniture some channels make, I physically can’t. All I'm after is making nice A2 photograph frames to put my archival images in, something better than you can buy in the average framers. However, the next person who comments might have been woodworking for 5 years and want to start moving up to creating a wonderful conversation piece of furniture. I’m learning fast that the quality needed to give value varies from woodworker to woodworker with all tools, including power and hand. I know there’s obvious don’t buys like the chamfer with no bearing, but bits like Tacklife would be decent value to someone like me. I’m also very timid how much I take off at once, especially with my palm router.
When starting out an inexpensive set is the only way to go...When the ones you use start to wear out replace them with decent carbide bits. You'll find that as you progress that some get very little use to none. After that when you need a certain bit that you need but don't have you can buy them.. Every one has a different need.
lol Mister Hat i heard that too and thought maybe I misheard so replayed it. Yeah someones getting screwed a 15 dollar set for 50 dollars doesn't sound like a good deal to me LOL :)
HAHAHAHAHA............ i had to listen to this like... 5 times and watch his mouth while he said it.... i think he meant "15 PIECE set.... for $50"?.... but it totally made me have to stop watching and just wonder what the deal is.... so i FFD through and saw that there's no real detail on what is "best"... just an idea of what sets to get. Still made me laugh.
Damn it! I bought that too. It’s Ryobi! Got it 3 weeks ago and finally made my router table today. I was so excited to test but only to find out that ryobi bits burns fast and is very hard to pull out if you have a 2.25 Bosch router. I think i’ll stick to Bosch bits from now on. Im a newbie wanna be.:(
Don't quite understand why the need for background music when giving an instructional video, it's annoying. Would much prefer just hearing the presentation without the background distraction.
good video, these cheap sets are everywhere now and you know youll never use all of them, would have been very good if you had included examples of what each of the 5 main bits actually produces on a sample of stock. thanks anyway.
This might be a stupid question but if your doing a 2x4 over another 2x4 that’s cut as a template how do you get the full board cut down the the template? Are they more than 1 or 1/2 inch cut size?
With the bearing riding on the template, cut the profile shape into half (or whatever) of your "target" board. You can then run the bearing against the profile you just cut to do the other half. I hope that's clear.
I am interested in learning more about routing on router table. q1 Which is better for tongue and groove set -- with 120 degrees or without? q2 I am interested in making my own molding and having complicated profiles. Where do I get this info? Book .... video?
Happily, there are a number of good router bit manufacturers today. Freud, MLCS, Infinity and CMT only scratch the surface. If it feels like you might be getting too good a deal, then those may not be the best bits available, but they're likely to be serviceable for the less frequent woodworker.
Just picked up the Bosch MRC23EVSK router set and love it. Are Bosch router bits any good? Been looking at some of there sets one was a 10 piece for 150 i think.
my coworker picked up a 125 piece bit set for 40 bucks online. first time using it the bits tried to kill him, i think we still have some pieces stuck in the ceiling...
Not at all, especially if you're working with 1/4" shanks. You never want to overwork a bit, regardless of shank diameter. Too deep a groove or dado cut is putting stress on a bit, and certainly trying to clean up an edge can be hard on a bit if too much waste is left. That's one of the best reasons for making a bandsaw cut as close to the line as possible. - DT
I just bought a router and used it to make a couple of keyholes in a piece I have to hang on the wall. I'm getting a lot of burn marks at the end of the hole and on the router bit itself. Does that mean that the router speed is set too high, that I'm moving the router too fast or just that the bit is crap? (They were pretty cheap but not too much...)
The speed could be too high (back it down a bit and see if things improve...shouldn't affect your cut), you may be moving the router too slowly (staying in one place can cause burning) and if the "affordable" bit is not new, it could be dulling, causing burning. The species of wood could be a part of the problem as well. Cherry - no matter how careful you are - loves to burn. Maple is a close second!
Daniel, I certainly have a few trim bits in my armory, but everyone's particular type of work will skew their bit needs. Happy to recommend a trim bit as worthy of inclusion. - DT
Merci pour l'information. C'est une question que j'avais de la difficulté à répondre. Je ne voulais pas me procurer des bits cheap. Je préfère en avoir moins et de meilleure qualité.
Recovery12Life with a fence and a table you can use a straight bit to do flush or even jointer work. Personally I have multiple chamfer bits of different angles.
Antonio Luna ok, whats your plan for flush triming anything with curves or larger projects. flush trim bits are used often for template work so how will you do that with a fence, howabout formica work you gon a flup the countertop up on your router table? im not saying dont have chamfer bits but without a flush the set is incomplete, its just basic
What kind of bit would you recommend for hollowing out wood? For instance, I want to hollow out a piece of wood for a tool to sit into to mount it to my tool wall.
If all you have is a router, use a straight bit with a plunge router. The best practice would be to use a drill press with a hole saw, or use a Forstner bit to take the majority of the wood out and then clean it up with the router and straight bit.
I'm just getting into routing and I find it beneficial to pay the extra for a quality router bit which does the work I require at the time rather than buy a set containing some bits which I may never use and which may be of dubious quality.
Superb quality throughout, easy to assemble. I found the saw to be highly accurate and a delight to use (I am a homeowner using this saw for various projects). I attached the saw to a folding mobile stand to save space and that works great th-cam.com/users/postUgkxPeGkHOMe05FySypTOvYumxMn-xi39oRe as well. However, you have to be sure the saw is securely locking in position before collapsing the stand. I've had many of the brands over the years and have come to point where I only buy Bosch, the extra money is a small price to pay for the quality and ease of use. Treat yourself to the best
Step 1: Buy "cheap" high speed steel bits Step 2: Take 20 minutes to learn how to sharpen those bits Step 3: Avoid spending 100's of dollars on Carbide bits Step 4: It's fucking wood, my my nail is hard enough to cut through it, were not cutting tool steel, you don't need carbide.
1. Buy cheap low-quality set with plenty of bits
2. As soon as one of the cheap bits starts dulling or looks worn, replace it with an individual high end one.
That way, you always have all the bits you need, and the ones you use often will quickly be replaced by more durable ones.
I have been practicing this with all my tools, like sockets, ratchets, screwdrivers, drill bits etc. Once one go, I replace that one with branded one and still have full set.
good tip!
brilliant
yea, better to do this than spend all your money on a nice router bit you won't use
@OK, brilliant idea!!! Thanks!
It is genuinely surprising that I have not seen this basic information covered by anyone else. Thank you. Also enjoyed this guy's delivery/voice as well as the information. More please.
it is enerally surprisin tat you ave never seen te 50,000 oter videos on tis tats wats fuckin amazin
In my experience cheaper bits can last a long time if you don't abuse them and look after them properly. With complex or large profiles I never try taking everything off with a single pass and usually it's two or three passes to get down to the required depth. Multiple passes always gives a smoother result. At the end of the day I always clean my bits. No matter what they cost they get hot in use and tannin builds up on them whether they be good carbide or 'bad.' This has to be removed if you want a consistent clean cut as tannin build up causes 'burning' (smoking) when you try to cut a profile, slot etc.
I always throw them away when tannin builds up. I find that they are never the same even after cleaning.
How do you recommend cleaning off the tannin? I am new and any info would be appreciated! Thanks
I like the way he explained it. Very clear and concise.
Good info. I started with a $50 set, and it was almost useless. The round over bits were the only ones I used out of it. I'm a luthier, and for me I have a slightly odd set compared to some people. I only use chamfer, round over, rabbiting, and flush cut bits.
I'd just like to add a pattern or a flush trim bit. Obviously, it's going to depend upon the woodworker and type of project, but i use a flush trim bit all the time because of how often i'm using two or more types of wood that i'm joining. It's nice to be able to be a bit sloppy on your dimensions, and quickly cut it all flush with the router.
Agreed. That's a solid addition! - David Thiel
Cheap sets are a good way to try different bits and when starting out. Sure they won't last forever but some you will use seldom and the ones you use regularly you replace with better quality when they wear out.
Great info presented no messing around I was so into what you were saying I didn't even hear the music. Thanks
Good information for a router novice. Wish I had this 20 years ago. Cant really argue. Most of the other bits really are for specific applications where as those five scaled one way or another will do 95% of your projects just fine.
Great presentation! Straight to the point on the balance between having a large collection of bits, and having money left in your wallet.
For the price of buying individual bits vs a set, it would be better for a beginner to buy a set. A good rabbeting bit alone can be upwards of $50 by itself. It's significantly cheaper and it gives them other options to experiment with and play around with set ups and profiles. Then as those bits wear out/break, start buying better individual bits.
China TOP quality Router bits Tideway TOOLS
whatsapp. +8615868191235
Dylan Sun
Glad to see the Ogee in there because that was my very first bit because I saw Norm use it so much on New Yankee Workshop.
Straight to the point! No waffle. EXCELLENT! Thank you for the video much appreciated.
Thank You I am basically new to routing and this information is Great!
Really great advice quality over quantity
Very helpful. Short, accurate, good wordsmything.
If you get a larger router it will often come with two or more collets of different sizes. Mine came with 1/4", 8mm and 1/2". It's easy to get them confused and you won't need all of them so put one of them, in my case I chose the 8mm, in a labelled bag and store it away. You're left with two easily recognised collets so you won't accidentally use the wrong shank size.
Great info. I just bought a Bosch PDF 1200AE Router but there is no Table or much with it. Will take all your info. on board and follow it up via the Shop. I go along with the set You recommended but am only at best an old handyman that is scared of Routers.
Very informative and eye opening video. I feel edge trimming bit is also should be added in the minimum starter list of router bits.
What was the last one called? Chancing bit? Wish you could have listed the name of those bits in the description box.
Would have been very useful to include images of the cut pattern for noobs like me
Great video and discussion of the various bits. Thank you
Thanks buddy.very usefull
Thank you. This is a super help to get me started.
Great info and thank you! I find if you bit the pullet and pay for a good bit, it'll payoff in the long run. I do a lot of box joints on my router table and most of the cheaper bits don't last long at all. also, I made the mistake of not having the 1/2 inch collet option on my router table. Now, i have to buy another router.
I’m a newbie and I’m not setting out to make the amazing furniture some channels make, I physically can’t. All I'm after is making nice A2 photograph frames to put my archival images in, something better than you can buy in the average framers. However, the next person who comments might have been woodworking for 5 years and want to start moving up to creating a wonderful conversation piece of furniture. I’m learning fast that the quality needed to give value varies from woodworker to woodworker with all tools, including power and hand. I know there’s obvious don’t buys like the chamfer with no bearing, but bits like Tacklife would be decent value to someone like me. I’m also very timid how much I take off at once, especially with my palm router.
When starting out an inexpensive set is the only way to go...When the ones you use start to wear out replace them with decent carbide bits. You'll find that as you progress that some get very little use to none. After that when you need a certain bit that you need but don't have you can buy them.. Every one has a different need.
Would have been nice to see what the wood looks like with each router bit.
Thanks man . Good tips
$15 set for $50? Sounds like someone is getting screwed.
lol Mister Hat i heard that too and thought maybe I misheard so replayed it. Yeah someones getting screwed a 15 dollar set for 50 dollars doesn't sound like a good deal to me LOL :)
HAHAHAHAHA............ i had to listen to this like... 5 times and watch his mouth while he said it.... i think he meant "15 PIECE set.... for $50"?.... but it totally made me have to stop watching and just wonder what the deal is.... so i FFD through and saw that there's no real detail on what is "best"... just an idea of what sets to get. Still made me laugh.
Its a ryobi set. Should cost around 15 bucks but they sell it for closer to 60 bucks in store. I looked at it yesterday.
he meant 15 piece
Damn it! I bought that too. It’s Ryobi! Got it 3 weeks ago and finally made my router table today. I was so excited to test but only to find out that ryobi bits burns fast and is very hard to pull out if you have a 2.25 Bosch router. I think i’ll stick to Bosch bits from now on. Im a newbie wanna be.:(
I like Whiteside router bits, but Freud router bits are nice to.
This is a fantastic video! Thank you for the extremely helpful information. Looks like you prefer Freud over anything else.
Don't quite understand why the need for background music when giving an instructional video, it's annoying. Would much prefer just hearing the presentation without the background distraction.
can u imaine a man doin tat 40 years ao? wat appened to men???
Great information, Thank you. Any chance you can drop the background music down? It's competing with the speaker. otherwise great video and helpful.
do you have a good reference for good vs bad? I don't want to use price as my only reference and buy a crappy set with an inflated price?
That was great - thank you.
good video, these cheap sets are everywhere now and you know youll never use all of them, would have been very good if you had included examples of what each of the 5 main bits actually produces on a sample of stock. thanks anyway.
A straight pattern bit, bearing above or below, is essential.
This might be a stupid question but if your doing a 2x4 over another 2x4 that’s cut as a template how do you get the full board cut down the the template? Are they more than 1 or 1/2 inch cut size?
With the bearing riding on the template, cut the profile shape into half (or whatever) of your "target" board. You can then run the bearing against the profile you just cut to do the other half. I hope that's clear.
Interesting video.
Is there a cove without the guide? I want to cove out two pieces of 1x, in order to sandwich some 1" piping into.
I am interested in learning more about routing on router table. q1 Which is better for tongue and groove set -- with 120 degrees or without? q2 I am interested in making my own molding and having complicated profiles. Where do I get this info? Book .... video?
Excellent.
Liked & subbed.
What two brands do you recommend?
Happily, there are a number of good router bit manufacturers today. Freud, MLCS, Infinity and CMT only scratch the surface. If it feels like you might be getting too good a deal, then those may not be the best bits available, but they're likely to be serviceable for the less frequent woodworker.
ty very imformative
Just picked up the Bosch MRC23EVSK router set and love it. Are Bosch router bits any good? Been looking at some of there sets one was a 10 piece for 150 i think.
Yeah, Bosch makes (okay, sells under their brand) good router bits - they contract with one of the larger bit-makers for their bits. Good choice!
thanks
Buy once, cry once 👍
my coworker picked up a 125 piece bit set for 40 bucks online. first time using it the bits tried to kill him, i think we still have some pieces stuck in the ceiling...
Lol
Is a two" cut length on a straight bit overkill? I'm going to be using it for straightening edges, and dados.
Not at all, especially if you're working with 1/4" shanks. You never want to overwork a bit, regardless of shank diameter. Too deep a groove or dado cut is putting stress on a bit, and certainly trying to clean up an edge can be hard on a bit if too much waste is left. That's one of the best reasons for making a bandsaw cut as close to the line as possible. - DT
So at the end of the day you get what you pay for and for me quality definitely wins out over quantity.
00:15 a $15 set for $50 is a good deal ?
I think he meant '15 bit set'
I just bought a router and used it to make a couple of keyholes in a piece I have to hang on the wall. I'm getting a lot of burn marks at the end of the hole and on the router bit itself. Does that mean that the router speed is set too high, that I'm moving the router too fast or just that the bit is crap? (They were pretty cheap but not too much...)
The speed could be too high (back it down a bit and see if things improve...shouldn't affect your cut), you may be moving the router too slowly (staying in one place can cause burning) and if the "affordable" bit is not new, it could be dulling, causing burning. The species of wood could be a part of the problem as well. Cherry - no matter how careful you are - loves to burn. Maple is a close second!
thanks a lot! keep up the good work with the videos!
Thanks
Why won’t my Bosch router fit my 15 bit set? The collet diameter is larger than the bit stem and the collet is non variable. Help
@5:34 this will explain your problem
s13one80 Thank you. Guess I missed that. Cheers
Why no trim bit? It's certainly my most used bit.
Daniel, I certainly have a few trim bits in my armory, but everyone's particular type of work will skew their bit needs. Happy to recommend a trim bit as worthy of inclusion. - DT
Merci pour l'information. C'est une question que j'avais de la difficulté à répondre. Je ne voulais pas me procurer des bits cheap. Je préfère en avoir moins et de meilleure qualité.
come on guy, no flush trim bit? but you got two chamfer bits, i dont get it
Recovery12Life with a fence and a table you can use a straight bit to do flush or even jointer work. Personally I have multiple chamfer bits of different angles.
Antonio Luna ok, whats your plan for flush triming anything with curves or larger projects. flush trim bits are used often for template work so how will you do that with a fence, howabout formica work you gon a flup the countertop up on your router table? im not saying dont have chamfer bits but without a flush the set is incomplete, its just basic
Make sure you buy a1/2" set and and a 2Hp router.
lad i stopped myself before te 1/4 inc dewalt !
Great video. Amazing hair!!
ladywood--kenny roders?
excellent, thank you
Did he say that you could buy this $15 set for around 50 bucks?
The info is excellent, but the music is very distracting, unnecessary and just plain bad. Please consider leaving it out on future videos.
For best results, use the dullest bits on the most rotten worm-infested woods. Smoke 'em if you got 'em. Cheers!
What kind of bit would you recommend for hollowing out wood? For instance, I want to hollow out a piece of wood for a tool to sit into to mount it to my tool wall.
If all you have is a router, use a straight bit with a plunge router.
The best practice would be to use a drill press with a hole saw, or use a Forstner bit to take the majority of the wood out and then clean it up with the router and straight bit.
Thanks Scott.
A carbide upcut spiral bit. Perfect. - DT
I only like to buy nice. Please recommend high quality companies that will last longer and worth the investment, one at a time.
I'm just getting into routing and I find it beneficial to pay the extra for a quality router bit which does the work I require at the time rather than buy a set containing some bits which I may never use and which may be of dubious quality.
why did you print the screen? haha
nice video though!
Why the music? I really wanted to sit through it all but the music makes it so tough. I couldn’t finish it.
tats because te media today as turned all te so called men into 17 yr old irls
Thanks Kenny Rogers:)
How much set sir
50 usd
Are you Kenny Rogers 😉
Without the cosmetic surgery, yes I am! ;0)
looks like some of the guys below don`t know what you are telling you are not selling the BITS
Lose the music your commentary is enough
I thought it was pretty cool
Superb quality throughout, easy to assemble. I found the saw to be highly accurate and a delight to use (I am a homeowner using this saw for various projects). I attached the saw to a folding mobile stand to save space and that works great th-cam.com/users/postUgkxPeGkHOMe05FySypTOvYumxMn-xi39oRe as well. However, you have to be sure the saw is securely locking in position before collapsing the stand. I've had many of the brands over the years and have come to point where I only buy Bosch, the extra money is a small price to pay for the quality and ease of use. Treat yourself to the best
The completely unnecessary music track is extremely distracting.
ruins te vid
That music was incredibly annoying in the background.
Like he was on the set of a porno and did this video as a quick side thing. :D
Nice informative video, irritating music though....
Step 1: Buy "cheap" high speed steel bits
Step 2: Take 20 minutes to learn how to sharpen those bits
Step 3: Avoid spending 100's of dollars on Carbide bits
Step 4: It's fucking wood, my my nail is hard enough to cut through it, were not cutting tool steel, you don't need carbide.
Since I didn't see the bit when it was new, I can't see that the bit is chipped.
That music ruined the video
If you want, you can learn how to do it with Stodoys woodworking plans.
What's up with the 70's porn music n the background.
OK, gracias por sus videos, thanks for your videos
Subscriber: J.M.Castilla@2018
What’s wth the music in the background 🙄
Great wig
Woodprix has very good designs and plans.
Why pollute the soundtrack with the awful "music" I had to stop watching the video half-way through because of it.
Yup, hard to follow
wy in tis world would u play music over your info ????? ruins te fine video !
Music is annoying and distracting...
I have a1/4 inch Router it's a Makita can I use a 1/4 bit from a different Router
Thanks George Lucas.
thanks