Keep carving - keep finding new ideas and patterns to carve. If you keep carving you won't loose interest. Welcome to the wonderful world of wood carving.
I really enjoyed your video! It is a lot of very good information!! Compared to many other videos, yours was detailed and comprehensive. I have subscribed and will be watching many more of your videos! Thanks so much for sharing your experience and wisdom with us . . . and all for free, too!
Great ! Very useful information Scott. Had joined the National Wood Carvers Association before Christmas. Glad to see their quarterly publication on display. Keep up the great video's!
Thanks my friend. Sharpening is my challenge now. You've affirmed that I think I'm ok on theory and now just need to practice on my cheaper knives first. I have stuff leftover from other hobbies, like sandpapers and polishing powders, but also purchased a 3-stone Smith's 6" Tri-Hone sharpening System. It's just $25 or so at Wally World, a modest 3-stone kit that does suction to the table. It has two synthetics and a fine "true Arkansas" stone (hopefully not True Limestone eh? hehe...) but they don't list the actual grit # like more premium products. I think it's more up to me right now than needing a more expensive stone set, though. Thanks for really getting into sharpening with valuable comments. I, too, have noticed the little micro-burrs when you're done with a coarser grit (which no one else mentioned).
I've stabbed my left palm and sliced into my right thumb so deep that one could see my bone. It was my very first carving knife and I was making a downward cut with my elbow. I'm hoping I've learned my lesson.But they healed nicely minus the scars. I'm looking into thumb guards and full cut proof gloves now until I get better control of my blades.
I would like to ask all my wood carving views if there are still political adds on my videos? I have no affiliate with any candidates and those ads come up randomly. The have offended many of my views though I assure you I have nothing to do with which ads come up. I plan to not put up anymore videos until after the election and weather the storm (though I do have one I'm burning to produce, and I may do). Again, keep watching, turn off the sound during these commercials and look away. I do love to teach people how to carve and show my techniques.
Bravo for your view. I quit Facebook for the same reason of political garbage. No, there were no political advertisements on my feed. Thank you for your video
this was very interesting! I haven't even got any tools yet but you very patiently and informatively explained things!! you are very easy to listen to!
Thank you. I hope you do start carving. At first you'll be frustrated on how to push the wood off and the carving is not going the way you want it go. But I talk about starting over again, and again with the same carving till you get how carving works. Start carving - keep carving.
The sharpening section of this video is not the best. Never ever use a sharpening stone without a liquid. Without a liquid taking the swarf (ground off bits) away, you'll scratch the edges as you whet. And may even cause enough friction heat to ruin the tempering. The edge of an 11 degree blade is seriously thin and heats up and cools down very quickly. And never grind one side of the blade several times as much as the other, like in this demonstration. You'll end up with a blade where the edge vector isn't parallel to the blade. Make sure you grind the same amount on both sides. And unlike what's said here, the Flexcut Slipstrop (purple odd-shaped table) is made out of wood, with two patches of ground leather glued on. But the main part of it is purple stained wood - it's made for sharpening chisels and gouges against the wood, using a compound, and the ground leather parts are for softer stropping.. The purple stain is just so you can easier see if you need to add more compound.
You need to learn a lot more about steel before you make a post Temper is put into a carbon steel knife at three hundred and fifty degrees most of the time. You temper a knife in a regular kitchen oven, and you don't need to turn it blue, or red, or any other color. You're confusing heat treatment with tempering. They're completely different processes. You heat treat carbon steel at fifteen hundred degrees, the point where the steel loses it's magnetic attraction. This makes the steel extremely hard. Far harder than a file. But it also makes it so brittle it will shatter if you drop it. The then temper the knife to bring the hardness down to a point where the knife is no longer brittle. With carbon steel, this will usually be from 55-59, depending on the particular high carbon steel. All it takes to temper the knife is a regular oven. Knife manufacturers essentially use a giant oven, one with either a conveyer belt or a conveyer cable, and standard temperature is about 350 degrees. You destroy the temper of steel at slightly less temperature than it takes to temper it in the first places, and it's very easy to reach this temperature with hand friction alone. This is why they tell amateurs not to sharpen a knife on a grinding wheel, or using any such power tool. If you don't know how to keep the blade very cool, you'll destroy the temper, and ruin your knife. Amateurs often don't even know they have ruined the blade, and blame the company when the knife won't hold an edge, or when it keeps chipping or rolling. There must be a hundred ways of getting a knife razor sharp. If you know what you're doing, you can put a razor edge on a knife using a concrete block. But of those hundred ways, at least ninety can be very destructive to the knife's geometry, or to its temper, or to its natural grind and.or bevel angle, and can greatly shorten the lifespan of that knife. This guy knows nothing at all about how to properly sharpen a knife so none of this happens. He doesn't have a clue about proper sandpaper use, and worse, he has no clue at all about bevel angles, or he wouldn't have made the silly comment about others holding the knife at an angle where a dime could fit under it. He's watched some silly video made by someone else who doesn't know about proper sharpening, who cares nothing about hgis knife as long as it cuts, and who also, whether through ignorance or ego, decided not to look and learn from professional knife sharpeners. He' use 600 grit sandpaper for a purpose that's just dumb, and should be using a quality stone, either an Arkansas Oilstone, or a Japanese water stone, for the kind of sharpening he wants. Except he doesn't know enough about bevel angles to use real tools. If you don't care about your knife, don't care whether it last a tenth as long as it should, do as he does. If you do care, learn how to sharpen your knife in a professional manner. This guy also doesn't have a hint of a clue about pocketknives, either, but still has enough ego to talk about them, even when showing a Barlow which hasn't been considered a good carving knife for two hundred years. The Barlow is a whittling knife. Carving pocketknives are the Stockman, which is used by true professional woodcarvers all over the place, and the Whittler. Both of these have three blades, and can out carve any knife with a single blade, if you have enough sense to learn how to use one. Specialty pocketknives for carving are called Carving Jacks. Flexcut makes the best known one of these. Such a knife has from three to six cutting tools, including an excellent sloyd, a straight chisel, a gouge, a V tool, etc. It's a collection of carving tools on a pocketknife frame, and someone who knows what they're doing can carve anything using just this tool. But professional and amateur carvers alike use the Stockman day in and day out. Some of the most famous woodcarvers throughout history have used nothing else. Of course, they also knew how to sharpen a knife without rapidly destroying it. And thirty-five dollars is not much money for a decent carving knife. It's about average. You can pay a lot more. And specialty tools definitely cost more, whether it be really good gouge or chisels, or something like a good carving jack. Even on Amazon, the Flexcut Carving Jack costs about a hundred and thirty dollars. My Stockman cost a hundred and fifty dollars, and I have a Whittling Jack that cost a hundred and eighty-nine on serious sale. You don't need to pay this much, and you shouldn't when first starting. The main thing you need to start is a twenty dollar Stockman and a piece of wood, plus the knowledge of how to sharpen a knife without rapidly destroying it's geometry, which the guy in this video lacks completely. Anyway, just because someone is a fair, a good, a great, or even a true genius at carving does not mean he has a clue about steel, about how to sharpen a knife without destroying the geometry, about bevel angles, or anything else along these lines. This guy doesn't have a clue about any of this.
27:10 I'm Not A Carver Yet But I've Used Those Stones Too Sharpen Knives Put A Touch Of Oil On It First I Like A Product Called 3in1 It Works Very Well!:)
Interesting. I've looked up these knives on Amazon. I've never heard of them before. Does this knife work well for you? Some have used a sharpened box cutter - I've tried that for a while. I guess what ever works for you.
Yes. The knife will tell you. You need to cut down against the grain. If you take off a test chip the cut will feel smooth. If you are going with the grain the knife will take off a big piece and it will tear and be rough.
It sounds like a good inexpensive set for starting. (don't forget to get a carving knife). The should keep you for a while, but join wood carving groups and seek out show as you go along.
Ferd Miik When you have a dull knife you push harder to get the knife to cut, and when if finally cuts it cuts through fast and if your finger is the way... rip finger
@@ferdmiik943 With a dull knife, you'll feel forced to press harder. But because the blade is dull, it doesn't want to slice the wood, but will slide off - into your hand or thigh.
Depends on how simple. Some dollar chisels will work right off but dull easy and needs to be sharpened more often. Also, when you say carving set the image of a bunch of chisels come to mind. Those are good to have and you will also need a knife. A simple Murphy knife is good, especially for a beginner knife. Simple inexpensive tools are good for starting out wood carving, build will more expensive tools as you go. If the tools you have frustrate you, change to other tools and not give up on wood carving - keep carving.
I don't know what to say unless I was there to take a look at it. Look on the internet to see if there are nearby wood carving groups so you can talk with someone to help you.
I would have stayed if I could have understood what you were saying every time you left the table to grab another tool -- makes me wonder if you listened to this before you posted it. Oh well - not being critical (I appreciate the effort) - just want you to be aware of your audience. Thanks
You obviously know nothing whatsoever about pocketknives, so you really shouldn't talk about them one way or the other. Anyone who calls the CLIP POINT on a Barlow a machete is whistling in the wind. It is NOT a blade that's too long for woodcarving. It is a a CLIP POINT, and anyone who doesn't recognize a clip point knows very, very, very little about knives. The short blade is a PEN BLADE. The Stockman, which I mention below, has a pen blade, a clip point, and a sheepsfoot. The sheepsfoot, which has a straight edge with the point at the bottom, is extremely useful as a carving blade. I've known a couple of dozen professional woodcarvers who use a pocketknife for almost everything. Usually a medium Stockman. It's all a beginner needs, and it's all a professional needs. Tools are a matter of choice at any level, not a firm rule. In fact, some of the best woodcarving I've ever seen was done with no knife other than a Barlow. If you start off as a beginner using a dedicated woodcarving knife with a handle that long, you can probably never adjust to using a pocketknife for large, complicated projects. But if you begin with a decent pocketknife, you can soon work wonders with it, and the switch to a dedicated knife is easy. But some decide not to make the switch, ever. A dedicated knife is good, as is a complete set, but it is not necessary, and where steel is concerned, you can now get better steel in pocketknives than in carving knives. But you don't need it, either. If you know how to sharpen a knife, almost any steel will do, ranging from 440a stainless, up to the latest crucible "super" steels. 440c stainless is fine. 1095 carbon steel is fine. 1095 CV steel is more than fine, it's one of the best carving steels. Or you can, of course, buy laminated stainless that's used on many carving knifes. Personally, I don't much like it, but it does work well. Again, personally, I think the more expensive brands of carving knives are overrated and overpriced for what you get, but I've paid five times that thirty-five dollars for a pocketknife, so I can't complain too much at paying thirty-five, even if I think the knife isn't worth more than half that. If you have to sharpen a boxcutter out of the pack, you need to find a different brand of boxcutter. They come from literally sharp as a razor, all the way up to four times as sharp as a razor. Carpet cutters are the sharpest, and really cost little more. But sharp as a razor is more than good enough. As for sharpening, the only reason you're getting a sharp knife at all is because you're wearing the entire blade down. The grits you use mean you'll never get a knife as sharp as it should be, but you get a moderately good edge apex because you're treating the entire blade as a bevel. 1000 grit is not only wrong for a strop final edge, it's nowhere even remotely close to what gives the sharpest edge, and your technique doesn't change this. The sharpening stones I use, and that every other professional sharpener I know uses, go up to 1600 grit with Arkansas Oilstones, and up to a minimum of 6000 grit with Japanese Waterstones. Some go up to 10000 grit with the Waterstones. My stopping grit STARTS at 12000 grit, and goes up to 100000 grit for a final polish. You don't know anything at all about sharpening, and certainly not about sharpening stones or grits. That sharpening stone is pure junk. Those "ridges" you're talking about are called a "burr", and you should not be done just because your knife forms a burr. Contrary to what most sharpening videos say, you don't actually have to let a knife form a burr, but if you do, you need to know the grit you're using. This is what determines whether or not you're done. If you're using a grit course enough to remove a nick without working for a long time, you are not done. You should move up to the next stone. Standard, quality stones are 600, 800, and 1000 grit for good sharpening stones, such as Japanese Waterstones.. Then you go up from there. For Arkansas oilstones you measure not by grit, but by hardness. The three standard sizes are soft, medium, and hard. Then you go to translucent and black. You can sharpen a knife with quality sandpaper, but using a grit as coarse as 600 the way you do is not how you get the best edge. It's as bad as using 1000 grit as your final stropping grit. I'm sure you're an excellent woodcarver, but it's stunning that you've been at it for so long without learning anything about sharpening stones, or about good stropping grits. It's no wonder you have to lay the blade flat, and thin out your entire knife, just to get a reasonably good edge, and it's nowhere close to the edge you should have. Technique doesn't beat science, ever. You're simply are not getting an edge that's as good as it should be, or close to it. You're also shortening the lifespan of your knives, you're making them more prone to chipping/nicking, and you're making the tip much easier to snap off. I understand knowing nothing at all about knives other than carving knives, though you're missing some extremely valuable knowledge, but not know anything about stones, grits, or strops means you simply haven't done any real research on how to professionally sharpen a knife of any kind, or you've chosen to ignore it, which means you shouldn't be trying to teach beginners anything at all about sharpening.
@@domokey9645 and he did not even get a single like, bc no one reads the unhelpfull text from someone being way to triggered and having way to much time 😅😂
@@moppelfrosch5727 Every bit of info that guy gave is actually wicked helpful when it comes to knowledge about knives and what is correct or not... he was just correcting information that was false so that everyone who read it could learn more. Honestly wish dislikes were visible on comments because I know you have at least one.
@@inzanity6624 i do not dislike anything here ;) i just wanted to mention why his usefull infos get not read... bc he expresses himself triggered sry my english isn't that great
I read over his post and found it informative, although I found it to be written in a way that could have been put way friendlier. Coming at it as a smart-a$$ as this person has done puts people off.
Why don't you use a knife that people can buy because they run the busness so people have to be lucky to be able to buy one of there knifes?????????????
omg... 10 mins in and you haven`t put knife to wood, and how many of those tools we aren`t going to be using today did you need to explain? don`t you think a marking utensil like, oh i don`t know, maybe a pencil is right up there with the number one tool? could you explain the knives as you use them? i like the rest of your style but my god man are you orienting this to children? i`ve been playing at whittling since 1976. i`ve done wooden chain, various styled whittlers nightmares, and other fun stuff. i understand that others may need a good explainations of the tools, however, i think filling their thoughts with tools they aren`t going to use for a while is really out of order and may cause brain stall. i`m always looking for new styles and tricks by listening and watching the experts like you. i am going to subcribe and watch your stuffm but i may have to speed it up, all due respect...thanks for your willingness to share your skills.
Then I had a Sony camera that I was very disappointed at (you can hear a click sound - digital cameras should not click). Since then I used my S9 for better videos, but recently I purchase a high end Sony bridge camera. I had not had the chance to use it yet, let's see what happens.
to much talk about things that have nothing to do with beginning HOW TO. Scott Im sure you are talented, but not as a teacher. WHY did we have to see all the things you have done?
As a wood carving teacher I have found that I need to instruct absolute beginners safety and how to hold the knife. Check out my more advanced videos, lots of times I show you how to carve but have little to say.
you're like the bob ross of wood carving, this is so soothing to watch and reassuring for when I start carving
Thanks Soph
Best beginner video. I'll be putting this on the top of my bookmarks.
Awesome video I learned more right from the beginning than I have in several other video's I have watched,
I’ve been carving for years and I have many bad habits. It’s amazing I haven’t needed stitches yet.
Keep carving
I just started carving and this was very informative. Thanks
Keep carving - keep finding new ideas and patterns to carve. If you keep carving you won't loose interest. Welcome to the wonderful world of wood carving.
Thank you so much for taking your time to show us it's really appreciated
I really enjoyed your video! It is a lot of very good information!! Compared to many other videos, yours was detailed and comprehensive. I have subscribed and will be watching many more of your videos! Thanks so much for sharing your experience and wisdom with us . . . and all for free, too!
Great ! Very useful information Scott. Had joined the National Wood Carvers Association before Christmas. Glad to see their quarterly publication on display. Keep up the great video's!
I don't know much about wood carving, just getting into it. But I do know a lot about sharpening blades...and a flat sharpening surface is essential.
I leaned that from Ev Evenwood 'Sharpening Simplified'
It will save you from having to rebevel a blade
Thanks my friend. Sharpening is my challenge now. You've affirmed that I think I'm ok on theory and now just need to practice on my cheaper knives first. I have stuff leftover from other hobbies, like sandpapers and polishing powders, but also purchased a 3-stone Smith's 6" Tri-Hone sharpening System. It's just $25 or so at Wally World, a modest 3-stone kit that does suction to the table. It has two synthetics and a fine "true Arkansas" stone (hopefully not True Limestone eh? hehe...) but they don't list the actual grit # like more premium products. I think it's more up to me right now than needing a more expensive stone set, though. Thanks for really getting into sharpening with valuable comments. I, too, have noticed the little micro-burrs when you're done with a coarser grit (which no one else mentioned).
New subscriber. Also subscribed to your newsletter. Received the “book” of carvings but no patterns. 🤷🏻♀️
I've stabbed my left palm and sliced into my right thumb so deep that one could see my bone. It was my very first carving knife and I was making a downward cut with my elbow. I'm hoping I've learned my lesson.But they healed nicely minus the scars. I'm looking into thumb guards and full cut proof gloves now until I get better control of my blades.
I have just done the same and got 3 stiches. I want to get chain mail gloves
I would like to ask all my wood carving views if there are still political adds on my videos? I have no affiliate with any candidates and those ads come up randomly. The have offended many of my views though I assure you I have nothing to do with which ads come up. I plan to not put up anymore videos until after the election and weather the storm (though I do have one I'm burning to produce, and I may do). Again, keep watching, turn off the sound during these commercials and look away. I do love to teach people how to carve and show my techniques.
You can block ALL ads by installing the free AdBlock. It gets rid of ALL of them!
Bravo for your view.
I quit Facebook for the same reason of political garbage.
No, there were no political advertisements on my feed.
Thank you for your video
TH-cam premium for $10 a month and never any ads. I love it.
this was very interesting! I haven't even got any tools yet but you very patiently and informatively explained things!! you are very easy to listen to!
Thank you. I hope you do start carving. At first you'll be frustrated on how to push the wood off and the carving is not going the way you want it go. But I talk about starting over again, and again with the same carving till you get how carving works. Start carving - keep carving.
Thank you for the content. I found this very helpful.
Very good class
Love Rockler! Love Flexcut
15:54 : "Oops. What if I didnt want that?" made me laugh so hard.
instaBlaster...
Great video new subscriber thank you
The bass I always seem to get is as hard as a rock
Excellent information
Lovely tutorial thank you
Got link where to buy the first knife you spoke about ??
The video was very useful. Thanks
Thanks - Keep Carving
Anyone know the name of the wooden template blocks? (Blocks showing the steps to make a face/eye/nose) I can't find them anywhere
The sharpening section of this video is not the best.
Never ever use a sharpening stone without a liquid. Without a liquid taking the swarf (ground off bits) away, you'll scratch the edges as you whet. And may even cause enough friction heat to ruin the tempering. The edge of an 11 degree blade is seriously thin and heats up and cools down very quickly.
And never grind one side of the blade several times as much as the other, like in this demonstration. You'll end up with a blade where the edge vector isn't parallel to the blade. Make sure you grind the same amount on both sides.
And unlike what's said here, the Flexcut Slipstrop (purple odd-shaped table) is made out of wood, with two patches of ground leather glued on. But the main part of it is purple stained wood - it's made for sharpening chisels and gouges against the wood, using a compound, and the ground leather parts are for softer stropping..
The purple stain is just so you can easier see if you need to add more compound.
Art Heen Z a w
Art Heen p
You cannot take the ember out of a piece of steel unless you get it hot enough to turn blue. Nobody can move a tool that fast by hand.
Art Heen www.pinterest.com/pin/662029213943273701/
You need to learn a lot more about steel before you make a post Temper is put into a carbon steel knife at three hundred and fifty degrees most of the time. You temper a knife in a regular kitchen oven, and you don't need to turn it blue, or red, or any other color.
You're confusing heat treatment with tempering. They're completely different processes. You heat treat carbon steel at fifteen hundred degrees, the point where the steel loses it's magnetic attraction. This makes the steel extremely hard. Far harder than a file. But it also makes it so brittle it will shatter if you drop it.
The then temper the knife to bring the hardness down to a point where the knife is no longer brittle. With carbon steel, this will usually be from 55-59, depending on the particular high carbon steel.
All it takes to temper the knife is a regular oven. Knife manufacturers essentially use a giant oven, one with either a conveyer belt or a conveyer cable, and standard temperature is about 350 degrees.
You destroy the temper of steel at slightly less temperature than it takes to temper it in the first places, and it's very easy to reach this temperature with hand friction alone.
This is why they tell amateurs not to sharpen a knife on a grinding wheel, or using any such power tool. If you don't know how to keep the blade very cool, you'll destroy the temper, and ruin your knife. Amateurs often don't even know they have ruined the blade, and blame the company when the knife won't hold an edge, or when it keeps chipping or rolling.
There must be a hundred ways of getting a knife razor sharp. If you know what you're doing, you can put a razor edge on a knife using a concrete block. But of those hundred ways, at least ninety can be very destructive to the knife's geometry, or to its temper, or to its natural grind and.or bevel angle, and can greatly shorten the lifespan of that knife.
This guy knows nothing at all about how to properly sharpen a knife so none of this happens. He doesn't have a clue about proper sandpaper use, and worse, he has no clue at all about bevel angles, or he wouldn't have made the silly comment about others holding the knife at an angle where a dime could fit under it.
He's watched some silly video made by someone else who doesn't know about proper sharpening, who cares nothing about hgis knife as long as it cuts, and who also, whether through ignorance or ego, decided not to look and learn from professional knife sharpeners.
He' use 600 grit sandpaper for a purpose that's just dumb, and should be using a quality stone, either an Arkansas Oilstone, or a Japanese water stone, for the kind of sharpening he wants. Except he doesn't know enough about bevel angles to use real tools.
If you don't care about your knife, don't care whether it last a tenth as long as it should, do as he does. If you do care, learn how to sharpen your knife in a professional manner.
This guy also doesn't have a hint of a clue about pocketknives, either, but still has enough ego to talk about them, even when showing a Barlow which hasn't been considered a good carving knife for two hundred years. The Barlow is a whittling knife.
Carving pocketknives are the Stockman, which is used by true professional woodcarvers all over the place, and the Whittler. Both of these have three blades, and can out carve any knife with a single blade, if you have enough sense to learn how to use one.
Specialty pocketknives for carving are called Carving Jacks. Flexcut makes the best known one of these. Such a knife has from three to six cutting tools, including an excellent sloyd, a straight chisel, a gouge, a V tool, etc. It's a collection of carving tools on a pocketknife frame, and someone who knows what they're doing can carve anything using just this tool.
But professional and amateur carvers alike use the Stockman day in and day out. Some of the most famous woodcarvers throughout history have used nothing else. Of course, they also knew how to sharpen a knife without rapidly destroying it.
And thirty-five dollars is not much money for a decent carving knife. It's about average. You can pay a lot more.
And specialty tools definitely cost more, whether it be really good gouge or chisels, or something like a good carving jack. Even on Amazon, the Flexcut Carving Jack costs about a hundred and thirty dollars.
My Stockman cost a hundred and fifty dollars, and I have a Whittling Jack that cost a hundred and eighty-nine on serious sale.
You don't need to pay this much, and you shouldn't when first starting. The main thing you need to start is a twenty dollar Stockman and a piece of wood, plus the knowledge of how to sharpen a knife without rapidly destroying it's geometry, which the guy in this video lacks completely.
Anyway, just because someone is a fair, a good, a great, or even a true genius at carving does not mean he has a clue about steel, about how to sharpen a knife without destroying the geometry, about bevel angles, or anything else along these lines. This guy doesn't have a clue about any of this.
for anyone not interested in the info-dump (i.e. most of the video) 18:30 to about 22m for the first part of carving then 58:10 to end
The purpose of the information at the beginning is to tell absolute beginners about important points to start carving.
Have you tried the ceramic sharpening stones? I do chip carving and I use them, they work great.
Great video. Thanks for sharing.
When I subscribed to your newsletter I am supposed to get some free patterns, but I can't find them, can you tell me how I get them please.
Amazing video!
What if i dont have tools other than the knife which ones can i do can i still do de gost in the pumpkin?
How would you hydrate dry Basswood, please?
Thanks for the video!
Excellent video. Thank you
Man, what did you sharpen that knife with, a rock? At 30:59 that blade is a mess.
Scott, went to your website and subscribed. Free patterns= dead link. ABOUT=dead link. CONTACT= dead link. What's up with that??
Bruce
Thank you for telling me. I will fix that soon. Russ
Fascinating 👍
27:10 I'm Not A Carver Yet But I've Used Those Stones Too Sharpen Knives Put A Touch Of Oil On It First I Like A Product Called 3in1 It Works Very Well!:)
this could have been 3 separate videos
I'm carving with a Gerber tanto assisted switch knife lol
Interesting. I've looked up these knives on Amazon. I've never heard of them before. Does this knife work well for you? Some have used a sharpened box cutter - I've tried that for a while. I guess what ever works for you.
Can you use pine to carve? There is not really any basswood where I live
It's soft enough and good for carving, but you may need to clean your knife often while carving if the wood contains much resin.
Handy tips thanks
Thank you Sir.
Why does it say page does not exist when you use the arrow down in your video
Does it matter which way up the block of bass is before starting to carve a figure? Is there a right way so the grain is not against your cuts.
Yes. The knife will tell you. You need to cut down against the grain. If you take off a test chip the cut will feel smooth. If you are going with the grain the knife will take off a big piece and it will tear and be rough.
My Absolute Woodcarving Video on TH-cam shows exactly how to hold the wood to test the grain.
Thanks for your reply.
I couldn’t fine the sign in or sign up signs on your web page
What knifes do u have
You're very good teacher :) I wanna begin woodcarving. Which set do I should buy? How is Narex 5 pices set for beginner?
It sounds like a good inexpensive set for starting. (don't forget to get a carving knife). The should keep you for a while, but join wood carving groups and seek out show as you go along.
You sound like the Hulk in human form😂
Well, I signed up but got an error for every page I went to.
Muy buen tutorial
Saludos
Ojalá y pueda incluir subtítulos para nosotros los que tenemos poco conocimiento del lenguaje en inglés
Si. Es muy necesario. Favor incluyan subtítulos en español
What types of wood can you carve
Canopy
A dull knife is a dangerous knife!!!
Robert Snelling Can you explain please?
Ferd Miik When you have a dull knife you push harder to get the knife to cut, and when if finally cuts it cuts through fast and if your finger is the way... rip finger
@@ferdmiik943 With a dull knife, you'll feel forced to press harder. But because the blade is dull, it doesn't want to slice the wood, but will slide off - into your hand or thigh.
bro google maori carving i went to carving school to learn this style i think u will be interested some intricate stuff
Would a simple carving set work?
Depends on how simple. Some dollar chisels will work right off but dull easy and needs to be sharpened more often. Also, when you say carving set the image of a bunch of chisels come to mind. Those are good to have and you will also need a knife. A simple Murphy knife is good, especially for a beginner knife. Simple inexpensive tools are good for starting out wood carving, build will more expensive tools as you go. If the tools you have frustrate you, change to other tools and not give up on wood carving - keep carving.
@@scottcarvings Tysm, it's just a cheapish set of 3 off amazon haha, I don't wanna spend too much on something I might not enjoy
@@dahedgehog1888 Keep them sharp and they will do you.
@@scottcarvings awesome, thanks dude :D
Thank ypu very much
I got my knifes from Michael’s arts and crafts
Wow did you!!
Can you carve with soft pine or...?
KNG PS4 Commander Optc that’s what I want to ask but I guess it’s been a while...
Yes you can. You may need to clean your blade while carving if the wood has much resin
Too much grain. Use Basswood if you can.
knife or chisel? or both?
Mostly knife, but sometimes both. You need chisels for your new projects.
I don't know it seems my knife doesn't cut, i tried sharpening it but still
I don't know what to say unless I was there to take a look at it. Look on the internet to see if there are nearby wood carving groups so you can talk with someone to help you.
Is this whittling ?
This could be called whittling because it's one piece, but whittling usually means taking wood off with a knife with no purpose.
@@scottcarvings Oh okay
Accatually starts at 10:20
So true LOL!
Do only with chisels '
Yes We can hear the chipping lol
geeze louise i love to chat
10:21 the ASMR portion of the video starts here
Sir, not to be rude but i will try my best to learn from you. It is not you that is the issue, it is me. I hope i dont fail you
I would have stayed if I could have understood what you were saying every time you left the table to grab another tool -- makes me wonder if you listened to this before you posted it. Oh well - not being critical (I appreciate the effort) - just want you to be aware of your audience. Thanks
Sorry about my nasal. Perhaps I mumble too much. I hope you could get something out of my video that you could use on you carvings. Please try again.
give me some basswood goddamit
You obviously know nothing whatsoever about pocketknives, so you really shouldn't talk about them one way or the other. Anyone who calls the CLIP POINT on a Barlow a machete is whistling in the wind. It is NOT a blade that's too long for woodcarving. It is a a CLIP POINT, and anyone who doesn't recognize a clip point knows very, very, very little about knives.
The short blade is a PEN BLADE. The Stockman, which I mention below, has a pen blade, a clip point, and a sheepsfoot. The sheepsfoot, which has a straight edge with the point at the bottom, is extremely useful as a carving blade.
I've known a couple of dozen professional woodcarvers who use a pocketknife for almost everything. Usually a medium Stockman. It's all a beginner needs, and it's all a professional needs. Tools are a matter of choice at any level, not a firm rule.
In fact, some of the best woodcarving I've ever seen was done with no knife other than a Barlow.
If you start off as a beginner using a dedicated woodcarving knife with a handle that long, you can probably never adjust to using a pocketknife for large, complicated projects. But if you begin with a decent pocketknife, you can soon work wonders with it, and the switch to a dedicated knife is easy. But some decide not to make the switch, ever.
A dedicated knife is good, as is a complete set, but it is not necessary, and where steel is concerned, you can now get better steel in pocketknives than in carving knives. But you don't need it, either. If you know how to sharpen a knife, almost any steel will do, ranging from 440a stainless, up to the latest crucible "super" steels. 440c stainless is fine. 1095 carbon steel is fine. 1095 CV steel is more than fine, it's one of the best carving steels.
Or you can, of course, buy laminated stainless that's used on many carving knifes. Personally, I don't much like it, but it does work well.
Again, personally, I think the more expensive brands of carving knives are overrated and overpriced for what you get, but I've paid five times that thirty-five dollars for a pocketknife, so I can't complain too much at paying thirty-five, even if I think the knife isn't worth more than half that.
If you have to sharpen a boxcutter out of the pack, you need to find a different brand of boxcutter. They come from literally sharp as a razor, all the way up to four times as sharp as a razor. Carpet cutters are the sharpest, and really cost little more. But sharp as a razor is more than good enough.
As for sharpening, the only reason you're getting a sharp knife at all is because you're wearing the entire blade down. The grits you use mean you'll never get a knife as sharp as it should be, but you get a moderately good edge apex because you're treating the entire blade as a bevel.
1000 grit is not only wrong for a strop final edge, it's nowhere even remotely close to what gives the sharpest edge, and your technique doesn't change this. The sharpening stones I use, and that every other professional sharpener I know uses, go up to 1600 grit with Arkansas Oilstones, and up to a minimum of 6000 grit with Japanese Waterstones. Some go up to 10000 grit with the Waterstones.
My stopping grit STARTS at 12000 grit, and goes up to 100000 grit for a final polish.
You don't know anything at all about sharpening, and certainly not about sharpening stones or grits. That sharpening stone is pure junk. Those "ridges" you're talking about are called a "burr", and you should not be done just because your knife forms a burr.
Contrary to what most sharpening videos say, you don't actually have to let a knife form a burr, but if you do, you need to know the grit you're using. This is what determines whether or not you're done. If you're using a grit course enough to remove a nick without working for a long time, you are not done. You should move up to the next stone.
Standard, quality stones are 600, 800, and 1000 grit for good sharpening stones, such as Japanese Waterstones.. Then you go up from there. For Arkansas oilstones you measure not by grit, but by hardness. The three standard sizes are soft, medium, and hard. Then you go to translucent and black.
You can sharpen a knife with quality sandpaper, but using a grit as coarse as 600 the way you do is not how you get the best edge. It's as bad as using 1000 grit as your final stropping grit.
I'm sure you're an excellent woodcarver, but it's stunning that you've been at it for so long without learning anything about sharpening stones, or about good stropping grits. It's no wonder you have to lay the blade flat, and thin out your entire knife, just to get a reasonably good edge, and it's nowhere close to the edge you should have. Technique doesn't beat science, ever.
You're simply are not getting an edge that's as good as it should be, or close to it. You're also shortening the lifespan of your knives, you're making them more prone to chipping/nicking, and you're making the tip much easier to snap off.
I understand knowing nothing at all about knives other than carving knives, though you're missing some extremely valuable knowledge, but not know anything about stones, grits, or strops means you simply haven't done any real research on how to professionally sharpen a knife of any kind, or you've chosen to ignore it, which means you shouldn't be trying to teach beginners anything at all about sharpening.
Did you just write this for a video almost 3 years old... bruh. You are a LEGEND.
@@domokey9645 and he did not even get a single like, bc no one reads the unhelpfull text from someone being way to triggered and having way to much time 😅😂
@@moppelfrosch5727 Every bit of info that guy gave is actually wicked helpful when it comes to knowledge about knives and what is correct or not... he was just correcting information that was false so that everyone who read it could learn more. Honestly wish dislikes were visible on comments because I know you have at least one.
@@inzanity6624 i do not dislike anything here ;) i just wanted to mention why his usefull infos get not read... bc he expresses himself triggered
sry my english isn't that great
I read over his post and found it informative, although I found it to be written in a way that could have been put way friendlier. Coming at it as a smart-a$$ as this person has done puts people off.
You are showing beginners, where is your glove
Good video, but cutting TOWARD yourself is not safe and not advisable.
Yes, you are right
M
I sound like Kermit
Why don't you use a knife that people can buy because they run the busness so people have to be lucky to be able to buy one of there knifes?????????????
omg... 10 mins in and you haven`t put knife to wood, and how many of those tools we aren`t going to be using today did you need to explain? don`t you think a marking utensil like, oh i don`t know, maybe a pencil is right up there with the number one tool? could you explain the knives as you use them? i like the rest of your style but my god man are you orienting this to children? i`ve been playing at whittling since 1976. i`ve done wooden chain, various styled whittlers nightmares, and other fun stuff. i understand that others may need a good explainations of the tools, however, i think filling their thoughts with tools they aren`t going to use for a while is really out of order and may cause brain stall. i`m always looking for new styles and tricks by listening and watching the experts like you. i am going to subcribe and watch your stuffm but i may have to speed it up, all due respect...thanks for your willingness to share your skills.
Your voice keeps fading in and out as your face changes directions. Use a lapel (lavalier) mic.
Then I had a Sony camera that I was very disappointed at (you can hear a click sound - digital cameras should not click). Since then I used my S9 for better videos, but recently I purchase a high end Sony bridge camera. I had not had the chance to use it yet, let's see what happens.
This guy is an artist. This video is very uninformative! You’re bragging Bub, no offense, STOP and instruct....slow down please🙏
i'm really sorry, but this is just so boring. i get some things that he says but its boring
Too much talking...cut it out
to much talk about things that have nothing to do with beginning HOW TO. Scott Im sure you are talented, but not as a teacher. WHY did we have to see all the things you have done?
As a wood carving teacher I have found that I need to instruct absolute beginners safety and how to hold the knife. Check out my more advanced videos, lots of times I show you how to carve but have little to say.