Why do we even need to clean a muff, after grinding and getting metal chips all over.....I thought "nothing goes into cylinder that way"??? I'm being tongue-in-cheek, because when I complained online Re my aftermarket muffler, with a big hole creating a 4" direct path from "outside world" through the open muff to the exhaust flange....was so scared it would suck-in crap (and it DID hang a ring / require rebuild, but no way to know why the ring hung, OPE seems pretty confident it was the chamfering&size of exhaust port itself... But yeah I'm not just OCD Re cleaning my muff, I also want the rear baffled half NOT open to the outside...when an engine is being started or stopped, and going to or from Idle-RPM from 0 RPM, there is a certain low RPM where the back&forth suck&spit of the cylinder *absolutely* could eat something... Thanks as always for the great vids, this is some of the finest muffler talk I've heard, will link my vid when I finish & show it but I have a design for 660's where you add/sandwich a 'baffle plate' in between the front&rear halves, it shares the 3 'square' mounting holes but, the bottom/clutch hole, that is not affixed but instead that corner of the sheet metal is bent back towards the exhaust flange....exhaust spits into the flat baffle, slides-around the curve &back at itself for max back-pressure & scavenging, but - with the area between the front & rear created by lifting that bottom corner - there'll be *no* restriction on exhaust gases going to the front half & then out through the Egan-type hole (am just doing it that way for ease, wouldn't buy an Egan on principle!!) [PS - Would LOVE to hear your thoughts on the "pipe mufflers" that Buckin', Iron Horse, Tinman etc are using, "L pipe muffler" and "bear claw" types of mini, tuned pipes!]
Late to the party, but how do you know how big you can go, or how many ports you can add before you've gone too far? I'm looking to port on old 024 and 026, but I don't plan on changing the timing any. Just widen the exhaust, square the corners up a little, polish it up, and clean up any parting lines on the piston. Not sure what I should do to the mufflers other than remove any baffles and match up the port. Obviously it will need to breath a little more than that, but how much?
Hey Scott you said one function of the baffle is to increase back pressure. How come removing it doesn’t hurt performance of the saw then? Especially with the two additional outlets. Also, where do you get those exhaust deflection shields from for the additional outlets? Cheers
@@floydnglenn 11404 rpm out of a ts400 before circlip failure. I have crosstalk and wanted to ask you what i should do about it? The ts400 can go 60mph on a motorized bicycle. It runs with crosstalk but i want to eleminate it. I saw you use epxoy to move the intake to 165 degrees. This is my group facebook.com/groups/293152804867443/
Man wish I would have found this series 4yrs ago... excellent work and techniques Scott... 👍😎💪
Why do we even need to clean a muff, after grinding and getting metal chips all over.....I thought "nothing goes into cylinder that way"??? I'm being tongue-in-cheek, because when I complained online Re my aftermarket muffler, with a big hole creating a 4" direct path from "outside world" through the open muff to the exhaust flange....was so scared it would suck-in crap (and it DID hang a ring / require rebuild, but no way to know why the ring hung, OPE seems pretty confident it was the chamfering&size of exhaust port itself... But yeah I'm not just OCD Re cleaning my muff, I also want the rear baffled half NOT open to the outside...when an engine is being started or stopped, and going to or from Idle-RPM from 0 RPM, there is a certain low RPM where the back&forth suck&spit of the cylinder *absolutely* could eat something...
Thanks as always for the great vids, this is some of the finest muffler talk I've heard, will link my vid when I finish & show it but I have a design for 660's where you add/sandwich a 'baffle plate' in between the front&rear halves, it shares the 3 'square' mounting holes but, the bottom/clutch hole, that is not affixed but instead that corner of the sheet metal is bent back towards the exhaust flange....exhaust spits into the flat baffle, slides-around the curve &back at itself for max back-pressure & scavenging, but - with the area between the front & rear created by lifting that bottom corner - there'll be *no* restriction on exhaust gases going to the front half & then out through the Egan-type hole (am just doing it that way for ease, wouldn't buy an Egan on principle!!)
[PS - Would LOVE to hear your thoughts on the "pipe mufflers" that Buckin', Iron Horse, Tinman etc are using, "L pipe muffler" and "bear claw" types of mini, tuned pipes!]
I Love that you are showing us now.. great job Scott keep it up brother
This series has me more intrigued than any "Who shot JR" Dallas fricken TV show!
instablaster...
Nice job Scott. I'm really liking the series.
Late to the party, but how do you know how big you can go, or how many ports you can add before you've gone too far? I'm looking to port on old 024 and 026, but I don't plan on changing the timing any. Just widen the exhaust, square the corners up a little, polish it up, and clean up any parting lines on the piston. Not sure what I should do to the mufflers other than remove any baffles and match up the port. Obviously it will need to breath a little more than that, but how much?
You’ll be wasting your time, unless you just like fiddling.
With that intro music I was starting to second guess my assumption of just what type of muffler this video addressed...
Hey Scott you said one function of the baffle is to increase back pressure. How come removing it doesn’t hurt performance of the saw then? Especially with the two additional outlets.
Also, where do you get those exhaust deflection shields from for the additional outlets? Cheers
to much of something is not always good
scott kunz I see! Thanks
can a i just drill holes? does the screen do anything?
there spark arrestor screens, know the laws in you area
Scott I use chainsaw cylinders on motorized bicycles. any advice to give me?
i'd build it more for torque then rpm
@@floydnglenn 11404 rpm out of a ts400 before circlip failure. I have crosstalk and wanted to ask you what i should do about it? The ts400 can go 60mph on a motorized bicycle. It runs with crosstalk but i want to eleminate it. I saw you use epxoy to move the intake to 165 degrees. This is my group facebook.com/groups/293152804867443/
I Love that you are showing us now.. great job Scott keep it up brother