Glad that the heating problem is fixed. But could not take my eyes off the 55 sitting over your shoulder. on how GREAT those rear wheels look now. Always knew it needed something, I think you hit the mark.
On my '66 Satellite with a hot 440 I was having cooling issues too. One thing that did help was lifting the front end up on jack stands, ran it with the rad cap off .. man, it purged out a ton of trapped air. Just watch the opening of the rad until you see no more bubbles coming out, then top off accordingly. Those air pockets are areas where there is no heat transfer via the water to the iron.. after i did this, it helped big time. I also upgraded to a heavy duty fan clutch , now i can cruise in 100° heat and never climb past 190°.
Also, use a coat hanger to figure out the hose shape that you need and cut it to length. Then go to the parts store and ask to go behind the counter to match it to their molded hoses. You will have to cut one or both ends, but the point is to get hoses that have the wire shape in them somewhere. When you are done, you will have two perfect molded hoses.
I helped a coworker once diagnose his overheating hot rod. Ran the VIN, found out the car was originally a four-holer but now was a V8 swap. Ran a cupful of laundry detergent in the radiator with engine running to act like a washing machine and clean up the cooling passages a little bit, drained out and refilled with front end up on ramps, hole drilled in the thermostat and it sat an entire day so all air could bubble into the highest part of the cooling system. Then sealed a funnel to the radiator neck and ran it with the funnel half full until all the air bubbled out like soda pop in a glass. that got him thru spring, then it was time to upgrade the radiator :) there was already an auxillary trans cooler on the smaller radiator to reduce the heat to it, and since the trans fluid hadn't been changed, we just swapped it over for free. a pair of ford contour electric fans wired in from the junkyard (and an alternator swap since new cars can run a computer and everything else on those small little units and our older cars have those big clunkers that can barely handle an aftermarket stereo) and no problems since :)
So Dan. The new vocabulary I have learned while watching your channel... Spinnie spinnie ( driveline) and more Acclerate( carb issue on the 55) ...love it. Lol lol have a great day.
Hey Dan just some food for thought. I used to sell auto parts and had a customer with a Pantera that had cooling issues, after water pump, rad, thermostat change it still overheated. So he ended up cutting every other fin off the water pump ( giving it more time to cool in the radiator ) and that solved his issue. Keep up the good work and continue being a inspiration for current and future hot rodders
The old radiator you can plug the inlet ,and outlet holes with plumbing plugs that you can get from your local hardware stores. Also pick up a couple gallons of CLR ,and pour that into the radiator after you plugged it then put the radiator cap on it ,and store it. When you are ready to use it just pull the lower plug to collect the CLR ,and save it back in the jugs you got them from. That will safely ,and completely clean the cores for the next car. "CLR Calcium ,Lime and Rust remover"
The radiator, shroud and dual fan fills up the all the space..horns moved to fender wells. 460 HP BBC runs at 140 degrees in Las Vegas all day long. Changed electric fuel pump to in tank to keep fuel cool. In northern CA I could get away with a four core stock radiator with an oversized Ford bottom tank.
Thinking that old rad was a big percentage of your problems, plus inadequate air flow. Think you solved both! Probably runs RICH now because its running cooler! Nice work! Surprising how well that particular universal aluminum rad fits different cars. Sure seems to cool really well!
Cross flow radiator good choice. They are more thermal efficient that vertical flow radiators and going from a restricted 2 core radiator to a 4 core is the way to go. Hope you had a win with all that. What's next? THE BLACK WIDOW or are you cranking back on the wagon. I can't wait to see what is next. 😍👍
Thanks for the update, great that you got it so its cooling . 55 running better too. You just have wagon to finish up and then the next project . Have a great day
You could take a trip out to see Brent at Half Assed and have him glue it on there for you. Good luck...I dog all your rigs. The 55 and 47 are my favs...peace.
I always ran a 160 degree thermostat in my 70 Chevelle. Never went over 185 degrees even on 102 degree days. I had same rad as you with stock water pump.
Hey Dan, Had same trouble with my 440 500 hp 68 Barracuda, done a bit of research and read that you need to be pulling 3600cfm with your fans, I settled on two Spal 12" 1640cfm fans on 26" aluminium rad and have no problems now and that is in killer hot traffic, mind you we don't get many days of mid 20c here in Scotland. Fan #VA01-AP70/LL-36A.All the best.
My past experiences with mopar are even the tower of power wants the shroud and it has to fit real good. I did the work on most the cop cars in one town that I lived in. The 440 was the hardest to keep cool even in motorhomes but that huge tunnel that they lived in was sufficient to keep cooler. On the dash was a warning that said long idling times would result in overheating. I came up on a 383 with just about or maybe the highest out of the doorway from factory horse powered engine I ever had the fun of working on and it had a dry ice compartment they kept using. They also used 80/20 antifreeze mix like some of the first all aluminum engines did.
I had an overheating problem with a Hurst Olds I had two different radiators plus did a flush, the distributor was all corroded up on the inside and the vacuum advance wasn't working, put a new distributor in it solved the problem , ran alot smoother also
I have found a shroud has always fixed the over heating issue for me. The shroud must be made correctly. If a mechanical fan is used the shroud diameter should be no more than one inch (25 mm) than the fan. The fan fins should be half in and half out of the shroud. Together with the aluminum radiator that should work. Just my opinion.
An air dam at the bottom of the radiator will help make a low pressure area behind the radiator to help pull air thru it and out of the engine bay under the car
Don't make the mistake I did years ago, a puller fan mounted on the front of the rad doesn't become a pusher, it's just a puller trying to force the incoming air back out. It's not great at idle but at speed it just blocks the radiator. I learned the hard way, D'OH!
Beat the heat at least a bit, put a couple of fan in the upper corners by your Door! One blowing in and one blowing out! Make them 12V and hook em up to batteries and solar Panels! Just an idea!
My limit for my '70 440 Satellite is 30C. I've got a Champion aluminum 3 core 5/8" tube rad, with a pusher fan in front. If I get stuck in traffic/construction for more than 20 minutes, it gets too hot. The pusher fan helps, but yeah, if it's over 30C, I'm staying in the garage. Also, I as well need a shroud.
Hope the cooling issue is solved. That can make a guy crazy. Not nowing when its gonna burn down on you. Advance plays a big part in overheating too, dont know if UTG helped you out with that, i would like to think he did. And the wagon, you wil get to it when you get to it. I hope its not really broken. Was looking forward to seeing it on the road.
If the rad was that corroded on the inside then so is the block. Ppl forget to flush and derust the block when having heating issues. Thermocure is a good way to go to bring out the rust and convert it.
Great job again Dan! It looks like you have a factory 35 amp alternator. If that is true, I will be amazed if it can keep up with 2 electric fans. Oops! I hope I didn't just jinx ya! Bye bye.
Very good point sue lob Rather than go to the humongous cased 100 amp alternator, Dan has the later, smaller more powerful Denso option available to him. And cheap, as 90s Rams & Dakota's and the last few years of M-bodies(5th Avenues) had as stock. 90, 120 and 140 amps and about the size of my fist. They put out 105 amps just idling and they're dirt cheap in junkyards and use the same regulator Dan's 73' uses, making them a piece of cake to add.....other than bracketry. No more difficult than savaging the project with a GM one wire aftermarket unit.....and a whole pile cheaper. Iacocca was asked, in the early 80s, if they should purchase Denso alternators and starters. He said "Hell no, buy the company". And Chrysler did. Got $15.00 used Denso alternators and gear reduction starters on all my Mopars. Malcolm Ottawa Valley
@@suelob8193 Thanks Sue lob I'd be surprised if Dan's two fans are handled by the old style Cheeseler alternator. I tried a huge Taurus electric fan on my 5.0 litre Bronco and was forced to ditch the old second generation Fiord alternator and go to the third gen 130 amp Taurus alternator to feed that fan......which I eventually turfed and went back to the mechanical fan ........kept and loved the 3rd gen alternator though. Always best to upgrade with parts from your own kind of vehicle....and leave those expensive GM one wire alternators on the parts store shelf! Malcolm Ottawa Valley
5 years ago, I bought a Charger with 2 electric fans. They were way too noisy for me. I switched to a mechanical fan, and it works just fine. Looks better too!@@malcolmhamilton5200
@@suelob8193 Sue lob I was chasing 10-15 HP and maybe 3/4 mpg changing the Bronco to electric. My Cheeselers all came with 5 or 7 blade clutched fans. Replacing a working Chrysler engineered clutch fan with electric, just won't yield enough benefits to justify going electric....for me. Dan's kinda forced by space constraints.....though all E-bodies could fit the monstrous 7 blade clutched fan. Get on the loud pedal and it clutches out, giving you the power and gas savings......ha ha ha, LOL.....with a built 440 ha ha ha. As if! Like Dan cares about 10-15 HP and mileage, with 500 ft/lb+ under the hood. Malcolm Ottawa Valley
Fantastic! Glad your cooling problems seem to be solved. I had to put a 16" electric pusher fan on my car because I only have about 1/2" between the radiator and water pump in my 454 powered '50 Chevy. It never gets about 190 degrees even in 100+ degree weather. Curious to see what your next project will be. Recently bought some of your merchandise. Gotta' support one of my favorite TH-camr's. Maybe HalfAss Kustoms has a '57-'64 Pontiac/Olds rear end he might let go for your '55. Just a thought in case you haven't already thought of it. They're pretty bulletproof. Keep up the good work.
Make a shroud for it, so it pulls air through the entire radiator. The fan mounted to the radiator will only pull air through the area of the fan. Stay cool, Brother
Dan, the reason why its runnin' cooler is because of No thermostat, like I stated in your last video. If you don't have a heater core you Don't Need one. They are for Winter start ups. A shroud is good as long as you have the correct rotation on the fan. The reason You gave to run a thermostat IS "an ol' wife's tale." Stop Drinkin' Dani's Koolaid. lol "That ship doesn't sail" in older cars before '90. Hey, my hair is longer than Yours & UTG's lol.... I've been wrenchin' on these Big Blocks before You & UTG were Poopin' Yellow. LOL LOL
180 was the winter stat-in the summer we would change to a 160 stat. Hotter than HELL here in Minney . Why isn't Canada"s border open ? Next weekend is the Back to the 50's car show-13,000 hot rods
for sure put a t stat in or at least a water restrictor (a washer with a predetermined hole that reduces water flow in place of a t stat). the flow must be slowed or your temp will slowly keep creeping up.
Dan i think you will enjoy these Nomads the guy gives a lot of info on the history of the vehicle body styles. Just a dumb thought is the thermostat sticking? Does the cap seal well, both can cause heat issues and many times over looked.
I took my thermostat out but when you take it out your water flows too fast so the best thing to do is put some kind of a restrictor in the thermostat housing for the smaller hole in it so the water flows a little slower that'll keep it cooler
The best E fan you'll ever buy or get free will be from a junk yard. I got from a dodge with 4 cyl turbo single fan cooling my 500hp SB Chevy. It'll sit in 100° traffic and stay between 185 and 175 all day. OEM fans even when new cost less money than those super aftermarket fans and work better.
Big blocks should always run a 3 core or 4 core radiator so the thicker radiator will defintely help that out. dual medium fans is the way to go on that IMHO.
That is okay for drag car but not a street car. On the street you need the thermostat to keep engine at proper temps. The thermostat regulates the flow in conjunction with flow thru radiator to give it time to pull heat out of coolant.
Put something on it to direct all the airflow into the radiator from the grill, also you can put an air dam in the bottom to direct more air flow through the radiator, the fan should only really work when parked or driving slow, the rest of the time it relies on the airflow through the radiator
Another thing to keep a eye out for is if the block is filled with something it will evently breakdown they all do it at some point and plug up the cooling system destroy the water pump
Back wash it so get a back wash kit. Prestone back wash kit. Also you can take the freeze plugs out and manually wash out and scratch out the block. But that two core radiator just was not big enough I think since you have bigger one it should be fine.
@@youtoob13 Yep it would be best and would work good. Some guys automatically before they install and engine do this procedure and put in all brand new freeze plugs its a good thing to do when its out before install but he might be able to reach them while its in there. dont know.
Make sure you do not have a blown power valve you are reinstalling Dan. T HAT will cause an over rich condition off idle and all the way up in the RPM range till dropping below the vacuum rating of the power valve .
Dan the man, I think and hope that you have that black reaper cooling issue resolved! Nothing, I mean nothing is more aggravating than cooling issues because it’s so easy to blow a head gasket when it’s running hot. I’m ready to see you take it out for a little drag racing. Do y’all have drag strips where you can run your street car?
Appears you got the overheating solved. One other thing, air coming in thru the scoop can mess up airflow thru the radiator at road speed, if you still have a problem driving.
Okay I. Issued the first part of the video before I commented. The one in there might be for a small block which doesn't require as much colling as the big block. But your new radiator should work awesome.
Get some CRL (a gallon will work) pour it in with a gallon of water and run it til it circulates.. let it sit about 12 hours and flush with water.. you'll see results.. I do the exact same thing with the old cars I revive..
Glad that the heating problem is fixed. But could not take my eyes off the 55 sitting over your shoulder. on how GREAT those rear wheels look now. Always knew it needed something, I think you hit the mark.
On my '66 Satellite with a hot 440 I was having cooling issues too. One thing that did help was lifting the front end up on jack stands, ran it with the rad cap off .. man, it purged out a ton of trapped air. Just watch the opening of the rad until you see no more bubbles coming out, then top off accordingly. Those air pockets are areas where there is no heat transfer via the water to the iron.. after i did this, it helped big time. I also upgraded to a heavy duty fan clutch , now i can cruise in 100° heat and never climb past 190°.
Also, use a coat hanger to figure out the hose shape that you need and cut it to length. Then go to the parts store and ask to go behind the counter to match it to their molded hoses. You will have to cut one or both ends, but the point is to get hoses that have the wire shape in them somewhere. When you are done, you will have two perfect molded hoses.
Great job Dan. Man those fans were loud. I hope that they fix your problem. Thanks for the video. Looking forward to the next one.
I helped a coworker once diagnose his overheating hot rod. Ran the VIN, found out the car was originally a four-holer but now was a V8 swap. Ran a cupful of laundry detergent in the radiator with engine running to act like a washing machine and clean up the cooling passages a little bit, drained out and refilled with front end up on ramps, hole drilled in the thermostat and it sat an entire day so all air could bubble into the highest part of the cooling system. Then sealed a funnel to the radiator neck and ran it with the funnel half full until all the air bubbled out like soda pop in a glass.
that got him thru spring, then it was time to upgrade the radiator :) there was already an auxillary trans cooler on the smaller radiator to reduce the heat to it, and since the trans fluid hadn't been changed, we just swapped it over for free. a pair of ford contour electric fans wired in from the junkyard (and an alternator swap since new cars can run a computer and everything else on those small little units and our older cars have those big clunkers that can barely handle an aftermarket stereo) and no problems since :)
Hope the problem is fixed. Sounds like it might be. Well at least as best as it can be with a filled block. Be safe and stay well.
So Dan.
The new vocabulary I have learned while watching your channel...
Spinnie spinnie ( driveline) and more Acclerate( carb issue on the 55) ...love it. Lol lol have a great day.
Hey Dan just some food for thought. I used to sell auto parts and had a customer with a Pantera that had cooling issues, after water pump, rad, thermostat change it still overheated. So he ended up cutting every other fin off the water pump ( giving it more time to cool in the radiator ) and that solved his issue. Keep up the good work and continue being a inspiration for current and future hot rodders
Sounds like a FANtastic plan.
Great job Dan, looks great and i love water wetter 👍👍👍👍👍✅✅✅✅✅
You really made the challenger a better car! Great job Dan!
The old radiator you can plug the inlet ,and outlet holes with plumbing plugs that you can get from your local hardware stores. Also pick up a couple gallons of CLR ,and pour that into the radiator after you plugged it then put the radiator cap on it ,and store it. When you are ready to use it just pull the lower plug to collect the CLR ,and save it back in the jugs you got them from. That will safely ,and completely clean the cores for the next car. "CLR Calcium ,Lime and Rust remover"
The radiator, shroud and dual fan fills up the all the space..horns moved to fender wells. 460 HP BBC runs at 140 degrees in Las Vegas all day long. Changed electric fuel pump to in tank to keep fuel cool. In northern CA I could get away with a four core stock radiator with an oversized Ford bottom tank.
Thinking that old rad was a big percentage of your problems, plus inadequate air flow. Think you solved both! Probably runs RICH now because its running cooler! Nice work! Surprising how well that particular universal aluminum rad fits different cars. Sure seems to cool really well!
Cross flow radiator good choice. They are more thermal efficient that vertical flow radiators and going from a restricted 2 core radiator to a 4 core is the way to go. Hope you had a win with all that. What's next? THE BLACK WIDOW or are you cranking back on the wagon. I can't wait to see what is next. 😍👍
Thanks for the update, great that you got it so its cooling . 55 running better too. You just have wagon to finish up and then the next project . Have a great day
Good work Dan. Nice!
Shrouds make a huge difference.
You could take a trip out to see Brent at Half Assed and have him glue it on there for you. Good luck...I dog all your rigs. The 55 and 47 are my favs...peace.
I always ran a 160 degree thermostat in my 70 Chevelle. Never went over 185 degrees even on 102 degree days. I had same rad as you with stock water pump.
30c = 86f
36c = 97f
Here’s the formula: 30 x 1.8 + 32= 86
36 x 1.8 + 32= 96.8
Awesome video as usual !! Keep’m coming !!!
Hey Dan, Had same trouble with my 440 500 hp 68 Barracuda, done a bit of research and read that you need to be pulling 3600cfm with your fans, I settled on two Spal 12" 1640cfm fans on 26" aluminium rad and have no problems now and that is in killer hot traffic, mind you we don't get many days of mid 20c here in Scotland. Fan #VA01-AP70/LL-36A.All the best.
My past experiences with mopar are even the tower of power wants the shroud and it has to fit real good. I did the work on most the cop cars in one town that I lived in. The 440 was the hardest to keep cool even in motorhomes but that huge tunnel that they lived in was sufficient to keep cooler. On the dash was a warning that said long idling times would result in overheating. I came up on a 383 with just about or maybe the highest out of the doorway from factory horse powered engine I ever had the fun of working on and it had a dry ice compartment they kept using. They also used 80/20 antifreeze mix like some of the first all aluminum engines did.
Pretty cool, man!! Lol!! Nice work Dan!! Cheers!! 😎
I had an overheating problem with a Hurst Olds I had two different radiators plus did a flush, the distributor was all corroded up on the inside and the vacuum advance wasn't working, put a new distributor in it solved the problem , ran alot smoother also
I have found a shroud has always fixed the over heating issue for me. The shroud must be made correctly. If a mechanical fan is used the shroud diameter should be no more than one inch (25 mm) than the fan. The fan fins should be half in and half out of the shroud. Together with the aluminum radiator that should work. Just my opinion.
You guys are right on
And a thermostat!!
Shrouds and heater cores are essential with MoPar! I have a long history with them and it truly is important- even with the old Slant Six motor!
Build a sheet metal air dam to direct airflow under the car up to the front of the radiator.
An air dam at the bottom of the radiator will help make a low pressure area behind the radiator to help pull air thru it and out of the engine bay under the car
That's one hell of a cool lineup of cars on your driveway
Just keep adding more radiators......
It’s coming along great. If you need a little extra cooling, you can install an engine oil cooler. That will help keep temperature down a few degrees.
Don't make the mistake I did years ago, a puller fan mounted on the front of the rad doesn't become a pusher, it's just a puller trying to force the incoming air back out. It's not great at idle but at speed it just blocks the radiator. I learned the hard way, D'OH!
You can also drill a couple of small holes in the thermostat
I can already hear mortske losing it on the flexi hoses. Lol
Hey Dan, my Mercury popped its rad where did you get yours? I'm local to ya' ll and desperate to get some cruise 'n in.
I like the custom Flexi Hose!
Just for fun trivia, my brothers 1970 440 6 pack Cuda had non-personalized plates, but they were “HOT 440”, when he got it.
Beat the heat at least a bit, put a couple of fan in the upper corners by your Door! One blowing in and one blowing out! Make them 12V and hook em up to batteries and solar Panels! Just an idea!
It looks COOL to me....... Electric high flow water pump...
Pull out a few degrees of timing ..will help it run a bit cooler eh
No.
My limit for my '70 440 Satellite is 30C. I've got a Champion aluminum 3 core 5/8" tube rad, with a pusher fan in front. If I get stuck in traffic/construction for more than 20 minutes, it gets too hot. The pusher fan helps, but yeah, if it's over 30C, I'm staying in the garage. Also, I as well need a shroud.
Car parts and tools, laying on the refurbished paint?!😃 Great channel, Dan!
Hope the cooling issue is solved. That can make a guy crazy. Not nowing when its gonna burn down on you.
Advance plays a big part in overheating too, dont know if UTG helped you out with that, i would like to think he did.
And the wagon, you wil get to it when you get to it. I hope its not really broken. Was looking forward to seeing it on the road.
That Mopar is NOT a work bench lol. Thanks for the video, enjoyed it
Anything can be a workbench if you're brave enough😀
Check jetting on carb my BB Mopar in my GTX ran hot.
Started up jetting and the temp started coming down.
Mine was run super lean
You should see the rads we ran in early big block nascar races here in NC... do you have radiator caps with built in funnel?
If the rad was that corroded on the inside then so is the block. Ppl forget to flush and derust the block when having heating issues. Thermocure is a good way to go to bring out the rust and convert it.
Great job again Dan! It looks like you have a factory 35 amp alternator. If that is true, I will be amazed if it can keep up with 2 electric fans. Oops! I hope I didn't just jinx ya! Bye bye.
Very good point sue lob
Rather than go to the humongous cased 100 amp alternator, Dan has the later, smaller more powerful Denso option available to him. And cheap, as 90s Rams & Dakota's and the last few years of M-bodies(5th Avenues) had as stock.
90, 120 and 140 amps and about the size of my fist. They put out 105 amps just idling and they're dirt cheap in junkyards and use the same regulator Dan's 73' uses, making them a piece of cake to add.....other than bracketry.
No more difficult than savaging the project with a GM one wire aftermarket unit.....and a whole pile cheaper.
Iacocca was asked, in the early 80s, if they should purchase Denso alternators and starters. He said "Hell no, buy the company". And Chrysler did.
Got $15.00 used Denso alternators and gear reduction starters on all my Mopars.
Malcolm Ottawa Valley
@@malcolmhamilton5200 Awesome reply Malcolm. Thanks! I hope Dan reads it incase an electric issue needs his attention after he downs another pizza.
@@suelob8193 Thanks Sue lob I'd be surprised if Dan's two fans are handled by the old style Cheeseler alternator. I tried a huge Taurus electric fan on my 5.0 litre Bronco and was forced to ditch the old second generation Fiord alternator and go to the third gen 130 amp Taurus alternator to feed that fan......which I eventually turfed and went back to the mechanical fan ........kept and loved the 3rd gen alternator though.
Always best to upgrade with parts from your own kind of vehicle....and leave those expensive GM one wire alternators on the parts store shelf!
Malcolm Ottawa Valley
5 years ago, I bought a Charger with 2 electric fans. They were way too noisy for me. I switched to a mechanical fan, and it works just fine. Looks better too!@@malcolmhamilton5200
@@suelob8193 Sue lob I was chasing 10-15 HP and maybe 3/4 mpg changing the Bronco to electric. My Cheeselers all came with 5 or 7 blade clutched fans.
Replacing a working Chrysler engineered clutch fan with electric, just won't yield enough benefits to justify going electric....for me. Dan's kinda forced by space constraints.....though all E-bodies could fit the monstrous 7 blade clutched fan.
Get on the loud pedal and it clutches out, giving you the power and gas savings......ha ha ha, LOL.....with a built 440 ha ha ha. As if!
Like Dan cares about 10-15 HP and mileage, with 500 ft/lb+ under the hood.
Malcolm Ottawa Valley
Would love to see you put the big tires you put on the 55 on the Challenger.
Looks like the challenger cooling is resolved. If it still heats up when driving, maybe consider a flow kooler water pump.
Fantastic! Glad your cooling problems seem to be solved. I had to put a 16" electric pusher fan on my car because I only have about 1/2" between the radiator and water pump in my 454 powered '50 Chevy. It never gets about 190 degrees even in 100+ degree weather. Curious to see what your next project will be. Recently bought some of your merchandise. Gotta' support one of my favorite TH-camr's. Maybe HalfAss Kustoms has a '57-'64 Pontiac/Olds rear end he might let go for your '55. Just a thought in case you haven't already thought of it. They're pretty bulletproof. Keep up the good work.
Make a shroud for it, so it pulls air through the entire radiator. The fan mounted to the radiator will only pull air through the area of the fan. Stay cool, Brother
3 core radiator shroud Clutch Fan done
Dry ice in that Cool Can!😄🥶 Do Wheelies!😊
'' I'm working on working on it ''... Thats me in a nutshell... :-)
Dan, the reason why its runnin' cooler is because of No thermostat, like I stated in your last video. If you don't have a heater core you Don't Need one. They are for Winter start ups. A shroud is good as long as you have the correct rotation on the fan.
The reason You gave to run a thermostat IS "an ol' wife's tale." Stop Drinkin' Dani's Koolaid. lol "That ship doesn't sail" in older cars before '90.
Hey, my hair is longer than Yours & UTG's lol.... I've been wrenchin' on these Big Blocks before You & UTG were Poopin' Yellow. LOL LOL
180 was the winter stat-in the summer we would change to a 160 stat. Hotter than HELL here in Minney . Why isn't Canada"s border open ? Next weekend is the Back to the 50's car show-13,000 hot rods
Another great video 👊
for sure put a t stat in or at least a water restrictor (a washer with a predetermined hole that reduces water flow in place of a t stat). the flow must be slowed or your temp will slowly keep creeping up.
Dan i think you will enjoy these Nomads the guy gives a lot of info on the history of the vehicle body styles. Just a dumb thought is the thermostat sticking? Does the cap seal well, both can cause heat issues and many times over looked.
Sweet video
I took my thermostat out but when you take it out your water flows too fast so the best thing to do is put some kind of a restrictor in the thermostat housing for the smaller hole in it so the water flows a little slower that'll keep it cooler
Trans cooler also may help
What size presser cap are you running try a 12 lb cap keeps the water in the rad a little longer might cool it down a bit.
The best E fan you'll ever buy or get free will be from a junk yard. I got from a dodge with 4 cyl turbo single fan cooling my 500hp SB Chevy. It'll sit in 100° traffic and stay between 185 and 175 all day. OEM fans even when new cost less money than those super aftermarket fans and work better.
Pull the thermostat for the summer
Big blocks should always run a 3 core or 4 core radiator so the thicker radiator will defintely help that out. dual medium fans is the way to go on that IMHO.
when I raced I never had termostat and it helped with over heating
That is okay for drag car but not a street car. On the street you need the thermostat to keep engine at proper temps. The thermostat regulates the flow in conjunction with flow thru radiator to give it time to pull heat out of coolant.
Put something on it to direct all the airflow into the radiator from the grill, also you can put an air dam in the bottom to direct more air flow through the radiator, the fan should only really work when parked or driving slow, the rest of the time it relies on the airflow through the radiator
Another thing to keep a eye out for is if the block is filled with something it will evently breakdown they all do it at some point and plug up the cooling system destroy the water pump
Did you check the thermostat?
Back wash it so get a back wash kit. Prestone back wash kit. Also you can take the freeze plugs out and manually wash out and scratch out the block. But that two core radiator just was not big enough I think since you have bigger one it should be fine.
@@youtoob13 Yep it would be best and would work good. Some guys automatically before they install and engine do this procedure and put in all brand new freeze plugs its a good thing to do when its out before install but he might be able to reach them while its in there. dont know.
Hey bud what's up could you put some breathers on all of your carburetors on your vehicles other than that keep doing what you doing
Can the catch can be made to be somewhere else like on the fender maybe and not blocking the radiator?
Good deal! Do you still have the nova?
Who built your custom club plates hanging under the tv... I need a few built.
Make sure you do not have a blown power valve you are reinstalling Dan. T HAT will cause an over rich condition off idle and all the way up in the RPM range till dropping below the vacuum rating of the power valve .
Dan the man, I think and hope that you have that black reaper cooling issue resolved! Nothing, I mean nothing is more aggravating than cooling issues because it’s so easy to blow a head gasket when it’s running hot. I’m ready to see you take it out for a little drag racing. Do y’all have drag strips where you can run your street car?
It looks hot and humid there
30C=86F 36C=96F Its pretty hot here today also (NE Illinois) 89F with humidity feels like 96F
She should run cool now 👍👍🇨🇱
Appears you got the overheating solved. One other thing, air coming in thru the scoop can mess up airflow thru the radiator at road speed, if you still have a problem driving.
Did u ever think about lettering the 55 like an old gasser like DD speed shop? It needs sumthin maybe paint the roof 👍👍👍👍
My driveway says it's a hundred and ten degrees here in Dallas Fort Worth
The coolant should be a 50/50 mix !
Keep it cool.
Hey Dan you should try AC Delco spark plugs in that old Chevy a Delco ignition likeds this as does a Chevy big block maybe like an r44t
Gotta' keep em' cool........................ 🔥🔥🔥🔥🧊
Okay I. Issued the first part of the video before I commented. The one in there might be for a small block which doesn't require as much colling as the big block. But your new radiator should work awesome.
Thats Cool !!! Now!!
When power is lost on overheating 440 how likely is it the expanding heads vs boiling gas in the carb
Dan, move the battery to the trunk, Bro !!!
Smaller diameter water pump pulley will have it pump more coolant.
"we're hoping it's twice as thick..."
Michael Scott: "That's what she said."
Get some CRL (a gallon will work) pour it in with a gallon of water and run it til it circulates.. let it sit about 12 hours and flush with water.. you'll see results.. I do the exact same thing with the old cars I revive..
Always keep dry ice in a cooler when I go to a car show and when im out my car starts overreacting I throw some dry ice on the intake🤔🥶🥶❄❄
Never worry about warping anything with that rapid cooling ?
Are you sure the block is filled? I don't recall 3 jugs of antifreeze for a big block Chrysler
why don't you buid yourself a shroud? Summit has a mount kit that works pretty good. Its basically just just a u shaped mount with isolator pad on it.
Poor 55 with those rusty headers