That big screw on the Generator is not a brush cap, it holds the field coils in place. It is better to leave it there unless you have reason to believe it is shorted out or has some other defect. Squatch253 is doing a small series at the moment on his generator and starter off a Farmall and shows all these details. Love the screwdriver.
Name that screwdriver “The Captain”. It deserves its name and place in your workshop. My granddad passed about 50 years ago and I still remember his small home workshop. Most of his tools were hand me downs from his dad and granddad and they were in magnificent condition. He watched them like a hawk and cherished them. After his passing, my dad and I went to clean up his home and went to the workshop first only to find that my cousins had beat us and thrown out all the junk and old worthless tools. Broke our hearts. I have never spoken to them since and never want to see or hear from them again. This vid brought those memories, a tear to my eye and memories of the cranky but loving old fellow we had the honour of calling our Pop.
40:20 - I've burnt in handles all the time on projects that I smithed myself (hobby blacksmith), you should try it sometime it is really easy. Just have to pull it out when you get to the depth you want so it doesn't continue to char the wood and make a loose fitting. 42:18 - yeah you don't need epoxy when doing a burn in. it fits it like a glove. Just wait until it has cooled down, give it a couple of wacks to compress the wood fibers and it won't go anywhere.
"Just have to pull it out when you get to the depth you want so it doesn't continue to char the wood and make a loose fitting." And THAT is the secret to the burn in method. When I do it I sometimes let some super thin CA wick down inside, though that can be a PITA later if the handle gets broken as you have to clean it off the tang of the tool.
I recommend that you move the tool rest much closer to the timber and use a roughing out gauge rather than a bowl gauge . You will get a better result and reduce the risk of a dig in. Run resin into the cracks using a pressure chamber.
That big screw actually holds the pole pieces for the coils in place. Don't take them out unless you absolutely have to to replace a shorted coil. I've done it before, but it required use of a impact driver to break loose.
Yes, learned that half a century ago at Bosch. You must not take them apprt without a good reason. And we had a special apperatus for that. With hardened blades. And a very long handle bar...
If you don't have an impact screwdriver get one- it's super handy especially working on old tractors that use all those flat head screws. The thing I'm talking about is a screwdriver you put in the screw slot and then hit it with a hammer and it pushes down and turns at the same time👍
This brings back memories of the first video i saw on the channel of you trying to cast a cannon - so I came for the cannon and stayed for the great content
Love the jack of all trades variety. It’s like a box of chocolates - you never know what you’re going to learn each week! Thank you for doing what you do!!
Thanks for doing a sponsorship for a therapy match service. Therapy isn't the derogatory "think your way out of a problem" thing that men have been saying it is for the last 40 years - it's more like changing the oil on your diesel - you gotta do maintenance on your inner self as much as the things you use, and we do that through CBT / DBT. It's not just for "people who NEED it lawl" - it's for everyone. Everyone has missing things in their life, and it's a therapist's job to help parse through them and be a sounding board and source of constructive support.
I've done 2 part handles (or multi) to get a solid lock on the bit being held. Doing it this way - you can get a a fit with zero play. Make your splitting cut with a thin kerf blade and chisel out the shape of the bit on both sides. Pin it or painters tape + CA, turn it down, then - pop it apart, insert the bit, and glue up the two halves. Works beautifully.
If you make handles again, try doing resin impregnating with the wood . It makes the wood so much stronger, while also sealing it. And it makes the end product utterly beautiful.
Only one youtuber can make a 45 minute long video about handle this interesting to watch. Thank you. I knew there will be some quality content when you skipped a video.
Man, that thing is nice! The brass and walnut really complement each other. One little suggestion/idea: maybe make a brass cap for the butt end of the handle, like a pein? Nearly flat but with a slightly convex dome that tapers down to nearly flush with the outer edge... Mushroom-shaped. It could fit into that centering hole on the end nicely and a little epoxy would ensure it stays put.
@@critter3745 Nah, nothing like that. That would be on the level of hand-carved, and gold inlays and stuff. I'm just talking about a visual balance for the ferrule on the opposite end of the handle.
John, you know you make good content when you have all of us watching close to an hour of refinishing an old screwdriver lol. Very interesting. Good work
I've been a musical instrument repair specialist and luthier for over a decade and I can attest to you using the proper method for crack repair. When wooden clarinets, oboes, english horns, and similar instruments come to me with cracks in the body, I fill them with the same type of wood dust that the body was made out of and I seal it up with water-thin CA glue. I also insert carbon fiber rods in a shoe lace pattern along the crack to prevent any further spreading. Good job John! Edit - If I may though, I recommend putting the dust in and then tamping it down with a small spatula, slotted screwdriver blade, or knife blade before gluing to make sure that you get good adhesion and no air pockets
Nice job, John. I think few people know how much effort goes into a "simple" project like this, or that perfect is the enemy of good. Well done. Looking forward to the engine rebuild.
My "Chainsaw Pants" were flannel track pants. Very comfortable. I ensured safety by keeping my chains nice and dull so they wouldn't cut too deep when they jumped onto my legs. The track pants were absolutely laced with cuts by the time I was done with them. My legs survived just fine. No scars.
NIce work! Put a brass driver cap on the back end with a screw in the middle down that hole you have there. I used to live across the street from BSI, and I do mean right across the street. Nice folks working there. Small world! Can't wait to see what you're gonna do with that Deere...
A CA Glue finish is pretty ingenious. Personally, I prefer a few "flaws". It just adds to the natural beauty and history. Its own personality. Sterling job Sir.
Nice work on the handle. I like the cast brass ferule. A friend of mine on the Old Tool Mailing List told me about using a brass fitting for flared copper tubing as a ferule. The internal threads can be used to mount the ferule on the wood. Brass can be turned with wood turning chisels. The handle can be turned to size. Then with the brass fitting attached the final shaping can be done. Much quicker than making a brass ferule. When casting a slug for turning I use a piece of steel pipe and pour the pipe full. When the brass, copper, or aluminum cools it shrinks more than the steel and falls free of the pipe. I have a box of turning slugs that I made that way. Most of mine are 8" or less but there really is no limit if you set up for contiuous cast. UTC had a rod mill that cast aluminum that was rolled into continuous rod and finally wire.
John , I made a large screwdriver to remove stocks . I had to take a stock blank and carve it into a real stock . And you could've put the handle in the lathe , and use a drill chuck in the tail stock . Then pressed it in there . 😊😊
I have been making handles for things as a hobby. So many I might seem insane. Mostly chisel handles in the metal lathe and knife handles on the bridgeport.
To make a handle safe use a very thin structural epoxy and pressure pot. CA glue is brittle. Adding wood powder to hide a fill works extremely well, does not weaken the joint.
Love your videos. The wood looks like it could be ash which was traditional for handles, at least in france. I'v done a lot of wood chisel handles by burning the drilled hole as you did. They very rarely got loose. The trick is to be very fast, being carefull not to over burn the handle, and not to burn to the depth you want the finished tool. Then to hammer in in when cold to the correct depth. Thanks for the great content!
I just attached handles to several files using the burn method. It’s easy and holds well. I suggest getting a few file handles and trying it out on your screwdriver shaft before burning your walnut handle. No need to go red hot. Just searing hot like 800F or so. Have water nearby to minimize deep burning. I think burning is the best way to make intimate contact with the wood fibers and it will still absorb epoxy. In fact it may enhance absorption of epoxy.
Easily the most gorgeous "Big Bertha" screwdriver in history! I can see why you were hesitant to put torque on that handle. Between the sheer amount of wood you had to slab off the blank to get near what you were looking for and the painstaking effort that went into turning it, I think I might just have hung it in a frame on the wall myself!
The screwdriver came out nice, don't worry about those cracks, its all part of the 'patina'. But seriously, trees live up to a ripe old age and the grains and cracks are part of its history.🌿
You did a hell of a job while I love your video John you're very specific you're not a mister know-it-all you're very good at what you do and I've learned a lot watching you you're awesome one of the best on TH-cam in my opinion keep up the great videos!!!!
John, When this handle breaks try this: First mill a true blank, maybe 12 inches long by 2 inches square. Then on your bandsaw, cut it in half, lengthwise. Open up each half and mark out the profile of your screwdriver tang including a few inches of rod and be generous. Choke up and basically make the handle cover about 10 inches including some of the shaft. Carve out each half handle blank to take up this 10 inch (handle end) of your screwdriver. Epoxy both halves together around the screwdriver. When the epoxy is hard, chuck the screwdriver shaft into your lathe (3 Jaw chuck should work fine). This makes the handle concentric with the shaft and allows you to shape the handle as you want. You'll have to carefully measure the handle ferrule recess and you may loose concentricity by having to unchuck it several times to check the fit up, but no big deal. Then glue and hammer on the ferrule.
It has a nice flat shaft just below the handle where you can use an adjustable spanner to get more purchase without risking splitting the handle again. Nice tool thanks for the content John
Ever thought of taking walnut shavings, then soaking em in slow setting 2 part epoxy, making a tube mold (say in a paper towel tube), compress it/pack it tightly, then turning down a handle...only problem is...wood turning "plastic" takes special precautions because the fumes and whatnot? I have like 2 5 gallon buckets of bullet brass I got at the range, and the same metal smelter...so cool! "A jack of all trades is a master of none, but oftentimes better than a master of one" Keep em coming!!!!
I have been rebuilding starters and generators for 40+ years, here is a hint, tap on the case with a hammer and then use an impact screw driver and hammer and they will come out. Of course I use a big clamping tool and proper bits to get them out, but this tip will work for you.
There's a local tree service here that also mills and sells rough-cut lumber/slabs and I use them a lot for my woodworking projects. It is amazing the grain and texture you can get from trees that normally would be passed up because of their imperfections. I used some cedar I got from them to make some Adirondack chars and man, they turned out to be some of the nicest ones I've seen. Oh, and I agree with your decision on the new sponsor, sometimes even the best of us need someone to talk to. Thanks.
I made some bullet mold handles and used the burn in method to attach them to some tangs I cut from 3/16" bar. Didn't need epoxy, just gave it a couple of good taps on the end of the handle.
Well, knife makers here in Germany use the saw blades from hand-held jigsaws. They make a small (makeshift) handle and use it to widen the opening in the tool-knife handle. Simple, cheap, efficient.
I’ve never thought of using CA glue as a finish. Very interesting. Usually in cases like this I fill the cracks with resin. May have looked cool to use a contrasting colour like blue or red to highlight the cracks to go with the wood grain. Great video 👍🏻
I cut all the time in shorts, I just don’t do anything stupid when I’m cutting wood with a chainsaw. No corner cutting. So I agree, leave us alone safety Nelly’s ! Lol At least until we show up missing some digits or something… haha.
If it does crack on you its because your feral was not tight enough. So before taking apart wrap the handle water tight right up to the feral and wood then soak for a week in warm water. Your little wedges will drive in easier and the cedar will bind even more to the steel. You will be happy if you get it right. Try not worry about the wood cracking in the feral. Hope this helps.
Concerning the crack in the walnut blank. Years ago I learned a trick form a master turner teacher. If you find cracks in the blank, simply make a judicious application of super glue and allow it to set overnight. Works like a charm.
Good idea using ca glue for the finish since you had to use it to prevent the cracks from being a problem and it makes the handle look old and polished by being in many hands over the years.
I have a very similar cabinet makers driver, it’s early nineteenth century, and has several interchangable steel bits, they just slot in and aren’t fixed , but sit in the brass ferule .
Thank you for bringing in a therapy related sponsor as well, I'm a big advocate of therapy and it's super important to find the right therapist to get the best results!
Definitely a satisfying video to watch the younger generations should subscribe to your channel its very informative on how to be a versatile person and pass on the important knowledge of navigating life thank you for doing great videos
I'm sorry, I have to take a quick break from this video @20:50 (aprox), because WOW that's some really nice wood grain...great look for tool handles, or anything else that size. Congrats. Now, back to the video.
I used to have one of those electric furnaces, and the crucibles that go with it don’t last very long at copper melting temps. I’d recommend making an iron crucible for it so you don’t need to buy a new crucible every 3 uses .The furnace also shuts off after reaching the highest temperature in can get to.
i really enjoy watching your videos. I wish i had the time you have to fix all these things and make these videos. Having a 3 year old girl and a 4 month old boy does not allow that at this time. hopefully in the future i can let them start helping me with my projects...aka free labor! I'm still looking forward to the next John Deere Loader video. I have a 1978 JD 555 loader bought new by my grandfather with 1200 original hrs, but it sat in a barn for the last 20 years. Watching your videos really help figuring out issues i've ran into, even though they are different models. Thanks!
Happy to see your video pop up! That grain is absolutely gorgeous. Jon your IG story was funny, poor Jen lol. Viewers give this man a like, his videos are the best!
Fantastic video. I have had great success with split end repairs on beech and maple screwdrivers and chisels. They were my grandfathers and are Victorian. Machine up a ring of brass to suitable width and shrink fit. Too old now to safely use my lathe but thank you for bringing back memories of 70 years ago being taught how, as it were. Your screwdriver looks to be quite special in design and I enjoyed the wood use; as a scientist One must always admire and stand in awe of the living organism that is to many just a tree. Thank you for posting best wishes from the UK.
Nice save with the root there, its ribbon looked beautiful, bummer about all the cracks that kept showing up. Your chisel fit was about the best option based on that tang shape. Brass and walnut is hard to beat.
Way to get back to your "roots" der hur hur. Awesome job! I just made a walnut handle for a ball peen hammer I picked up for $1 at a garage sale. Really satisfying project after watching some of your older handle making videos. Keep em coming!
After seeing you use your Nata, It inspired me to get in the shop and make myself one out of some walnut & old mower blades. It looks like it is a pleasure to use. Nice job on the handle.
It always amazes me the power available with the bucket of both a backhoe and a loader. It's the prying action that gives it the power. When someone says "ferrule" , I immediately think of brass, although I have seen steel ones.
Hi John, some hints to help you in wood turning. Turn to finish sanding size prior to filling cracks. Layer powder/ca if needed and spray activator each time. Thin type CA glue. Sand to finish grit...340 grit is fine to prepare to finish. Use the blue shop towels keep folding them in half until you end up with a strip about an inch wide. Wear gloves and eye protection.... CA will sling off and get you. Dribble a groove with CA, stand aside, turn on about 400 rpms or just rotate it and it will fill the groove well. Do that to each and then sand the handle again with 400 or 600 grit until smooth. Then squirt CA on an inch of the paper towel and slowly progress from one end to the other with the first coat. Spray with activator. Cut off the used inch of the towel with scissors and put other coats on the same way. Begin and end each coat in only one direction. Usually takes about 10 coats. End it all with some wax and polish it. Apply only in one direction from one end to the other and don't go back and forth. It acts a lot like lacquer finish as far as sanding and reapplying another coat is concerned. Thanks for the videos. I'm a fan.
I had my hip replaced yesterday. I’m stuck in bed and living via proxy watching you do that. That’s exactly the kind of thing I do. You are right about burning in the handle. It is a quick way, but it is weaker. I think you did it right, like my granddad used to say, if it’s worth doing, it’s worth doing right.
Awesome screwdriver John. Liked your lathe work. Ive been a machinist over 40 yrs now and wearing long sleeves, rings and gloves could come back to bite you. Stay safe. We all need more Farmcraft vids.
Jim Smith on Tradesman Channel has burned in draw knives to handles and they are absolutely tight on the knife when finished. You might could check it out. Absolutely amazing job on the restoration!
I prefer to fit my ferrules on the live center end of the handle. The drive center end is left long and cut off at the end. Having the ferrule end on the live center enables one to take the handle off for a fitting. I usually do the ferrule end first and press the ferrule on. This allows me to finish the ferrule on the lathe. Having the ferrule installed also provides great support to the live center end for the rest of the turning.
Its amazing how such simple things as tools can grow such large attachments to us. I have tools that I got passed down from my grandfather, father, they are not quality tools no one in our family cold afford them. so they were the "Cheap stuff from local dept stores etc. but we all took great care of them refurbished them when needed. kept them clean working edges etc. and I've had them over 60 yrs now and still use them to this day. and can remember times when I seen them in my grandad's hands and my father's hands and mine. You can't but that respect and or memory's. Thanks for sharing some of yours. great job. ECF
Hi John, great vid! When woodturning, always have your tool rest as close to work as possible. This way, less chance of tool “biting” into your work. Cheers
I have a couple of long screwdrivers and flat and a #2 Phillips... nothing this large or nice, but seriously some of my most used tools. They are super handy for many things, not just access, but easier to use in a lot of cases. Thank you for all the videos!
The only thing I would recommend is drilling a ping hole through the blade and ferrule then pinning it to provide a mechanical connection in addition to the epoxy.
In the future, if you split it instead of cut it. You will get rid of the cracks and be left with stronger wood. Just use the existing cracks to split it until you get the size of piece you need.
John - Use a hammer driven impact screwdriver on those generator brush caps. Better to break a Taiwanese bit than damage your newly restored antique screwdriver. (You did a great job!)
I'm glad you chose to do another casting video. Variety is the spice of farmcraft
The variety is my favorite thing about this channel.
That and usually it doesn't chase annoying click bait trends.
And the spice must flow!
A week without your adventures, is like a week without sunshine!
That big screw on the Generator is not a brush cap, it holds the field coils in place. It is better to leave it there unless you have reason to believe it is shorted out or has some other defect. Squatch253 is doing a small series at the moment on his generator and starter off a Farmall and shows all these details.
Love the screwdriver.
That is correct, The brushes are not rubbing against the middle of the rotor. Nor are they that small.
Thanks!
Thank you
Smelting, lathe work, digger, wood work… you are my hero, John. Nice work!
Wow, that screwdriver is so long you could work from home with that !
Name that screwdriver “The Captain”. It deserves its name and place in your workshop.
My granddad passed about 50 years ago and I still remember his small home workshop. Most of his tools were hand me downs from his dad and granddad and they were in magnificent condition. He watched them like a hawk and cherished them. After his passing, my dad and I went to clean up his home and went to the workshop first only to find that my cousins had beat us and thrown out all the junk and old worthless tools. Broke our hearts. I have never spoken to them since and never want to see or hear from them again.
This vid brought those memories, a tear to my eye and memories of the cranky but loving old fellow we had the honour of calling our Pop.
40:20 - I've burnt in handles all the time on projects that I smithed myself (hobby blacksmith), you should try it sometime it is really easy. Just have to pull it out when you get to the depth you want so it doesn't continue to char the wood and make a loose fitting.
42:18 - yeah you don't need epoxy when doing a burn in. it fits it like a glove. Just wait until it has cooled down, give it a couple of wacks to compress the wood fibers and it won't go anywhere.
"Just have to pull it out when you get to the depth you want so it doesn't continue to char the wood and make a loose fitting."
And THAT is the secret to the burn in method. When I do it I sometimes let some super thin CA wick down inside, though that can be a PITA later if the handle gets broken as you have to clean it off the tang of the tool.
a farmcraft101 video on FRIDAY? How blessed can I get?!
John dropped a video, it's gonna be a good weekend for sure, I don't care how much rain we get in the PNW!
nice work put a brass cap on the back to protect it and cover the hole up
I recommend that you move the tool rest much closer to the timber and use a roughing out gauge rather than a bowl gauge . You will get a better result and reduce the risk of a dig in. Run resin into the cracks using a pressure chamber.
Great sponsor spot. You're right, therapy may apply to everybody at some point in their life, and you delivered that in a no nonsense way.
That big screw actually holds the pole pieces for the coils in place. Don't take them out unless you absolutely have to to replace a shorted coil. I've done it before, but it required use of a impact driver to break loose.
Yes, learned that half a century ago at Bosch. You must not take them apprt without a good reason. And we had a special apperatus for that. With hardened blades. And a very long handle bar...
If you don't have an impact screwdriver get one- it's super handy especially working on old tractors that use all those flat head screws. The thing I'm talking about is a screwdriver you put in the screw slot and then hit it with a hammer and it pushes down and turns at the same time👍
This brings back memories of the first video i saw on the channel of you trying to cast a cannon - so I came for the cannon and stayed for the great content
Love the jack of all trades variety. It’s like a box of chocolates - you never know what you’re going to learn each week! Thank you for doing what you do!!
Thanks for doing a sponsorship for a therapy match service. Therapy isn't the derogatory "think your way out of a problem" thing that men have been saying it is for the last 40 years - it's more like changing the oil on your diesel - you gotta do maintenance on your inner self as much as the things you use, and we do that through CBT / DBT. It's not just for "people who NEED it lawl" - it's for everyone. Everyone has missing things in their life, and it's a therapist's job to help parse through them and be a sounding board and source of constructive support.
That grain is stunning Wow Jon 20:30 @FarmCraft101
All I could think was cross drill through the ferrel/shaft and put a brass pin in to hold it in the handle.
EXCELLENT recycling
I like project videos.
Wow making the handle out of Walnut Tree Root that is going to be neet and interesting. I Remember when you removed that stump Jon 14:00 @FarmCraft101
I've done 2 part handles (or multi) to get a solid lock on the bit being held. Doing it this way - you can get a a fit with zero play.
Make your splitting cut with a thin kerf blade and chisel out the shape of the bit on both sides. Pin it or painters tape + CA, turn it down, then - pop it apart, insert the bit, and glue up the two halves. Works beautifully.
If you make handles again, try doing resin impregnating with the wood . It makes the wood so much stronger, while also sealing it. And it makes the end product utterly beautiful.
Only one youtuber can make a 45 minute long video about handle this interesting to watch. Thank you. I knew there will be some quality content when you skipped a video.
Man, that thing is nice! The brass and walnut really complement each other. One little suggestion/idea: maybe make a brass cap for the butt end of the handle, like a pein? Nearly flat but with a slightly convex dome that tapers down to nearly flush with the outer edge... Mushroom-shaped. It could fit into that centering hole on the end nicely and a little epoxy would ensure it stays put.
I like the idea. Of course, you risk making the "tool" to fancy to want to use.
@@critter3745 Nah, nothing like that. That would be on the level of hand-carved, and gold inlays and stuff. I'm just talking about a visual balance for the ferrule on the opposite end of the handle.
That grain is so beautiful even after you rounded it Was a ton of cracks you were trying to get around there Jon 24:20 @FarmCraft101
Nice. Love the walnut grain from the root.
John, you know you make good content when you have all of us watching close to an hour of refinishing an old screwdriver lol. Very interesting. Good work
That brass Farrell came out Very Nice Jon 12:40 @FarmCraft101
I've been a musical instrument repair specialist and luthier for over a decade and I can attest to you using the proper method for crack repair. When wooden clarinets, oboes, english horns, and similar instruments come to me with cracks in the body, I fill them with the same type of wood dust that the body was made out of and I seal it up with water-thin CA glue. I also insert carbon fiber rods in a shoe lace pattern along the crack to prevent any further spreading. Good job John!
Edit - If I may though, I recommend putting the dust in and then tamping it down with a small spatula, slotted screwdriver blade, or knife blade before gluing to make sure that you get good adhesion and no air pockets
Wow! That was a great video. I’ll be honest I didn’t think it would be as interesting as it was.
Nice job, John. I think few people know how much effort goes into a "simple" project like this, or that perfect is the enemy of good. Well done. Looking forward to the engine rebuild.
With a full wood shop, metal lathe, foundry, and a backhoe you too can make a screwdriver handle!
My "Chainsaw Pants" were flannel track pants. Very comfortable.
I ensured safety by keeping my chains nice and dull so they wouldn't cut too deep when they jumped onto my legs.
The track pants were absolutely laced with cuts by the time I was done with them.
My legs survived just fine. No scars.
Handle came out Beautiful Jon for this Screwdriver 44:19 @FarmCraft101
NIce work! Put a brass driver cap on the back end with a screw in the middle down that hole you have there. I used to live across the street from BSI, and I do mean right across the street. Nice folks working there. Small world! Can't wait to see what you're gonna do with that Deere...
A CA Glue finish is pretty ingenious. Personally, I prefer a few "flaws". It just adds to the natural beauty and history. Its own personality. Sterling job Sir.
This is awesome content Jon. I love your work! Can’t wait for the next video.
43:07 popsicle sticks make great epoxy stirrers and spreaders. Then no clean up, just throw them away. They sell them in bulk cheap.
Nice work on the handle.
I like the cast brass ferule.
A friend of mine on the Old Tool Mailing List told me about using a brass fitting for flared copper tubing as a ferule. The internal threads can be used to mount the ferule on the wood. Brass can be turned with wood turning chisels. The handle can be turned to size. Then with the brass fitting attached the final shaping can be done. Much quicker than making a brass ferule.
When casting a slug for turning I use a piece of steel pipe and pour the pipe full. When the brass, copper, or aluminum cools it shrinks more than the steel and falls free of the pipe.
I have a box of turning slugs that I made that way. Most of mine are 8" or less but there really is no limit if you set up for contiuous cast.
UTC had a rod mill that cast aluminum that was rolled into continuous rod and finally wire.
John , I made a large screwdriver to remove stocks . I had to take a stock blank and carve it into a real stock . And you could've put the handle in the lathe , and use a drill chuck in the tail stock . Then pressed it in there . 😊😊
I have been making handles for things as a hobby. So many I might seem insane. Mostly chisel handles in the metal lathe and knife handles on the bridgeport.
To make a handle safe use a very thin structural epoxy and pressure pot. CA glue is brittle. Adding wood powder to hide a fill works extremely well, does not weaken the joint.
Love your videos. The wood looks like it could be ash which was traditional for handles, at least in france. I'v done a lot of wood chisel handles by burning the drilled hole as you did. They very rarely got loose. The trick is to be very fast, being carefull not to over burn the handle, and not to burn to the depth you want the finished tool. Then to hammer in in when cold to the correct depth. Thanks for the great content!
I just attached handles to several files using the burn method. It’s easy and holds well. I suggest getting a few file handles and trying it out on your screwdriver shaft before burning your walnut handle. No need to go red hot. Just searing hot like 800F or so. Have water nearby to minimize deep burning. I think burning is the best way to make intimate contact with the wood fibers and it will still absorb epoxy. In fact it may enhance absorption of epoxy.
Easily the most gorgeous "Big Bertha" screwdriver in history! I can see why you were hesitant to put torque on that handle. Between the sheer amount of wood you had to slab off the blank to get near what you were looking for and the painstaking effort that went into turning it, I think I might just have hung it in a frame on the wall myself!
The screwdriver came out nice, don't worry about those cracks, its all part of the 'patina'. But seriously, trees live up to a ripe old age and the grains and cracks are part of its history.🌿
You did a hell of a job while I love your video John you're very specific you're not a mister know-it-all you're very good at what you do and I've learned a lot watching you you're awesome one of the best on TH-cam in my opinion keep up the great videos!!!!
Thanks 👍
John, When this handle breaks try this: First mill a true blank, maybe 12 inches long by 2 inches square. Then on your bandsaw, cut it in half, lengthwise. Open up each half and mark out the profile of your screwdriver tang including a few inches of rod and be generous. Choke up and basically make the handle cover about 10 inches including some of the shaft. Carve out each half handle blank to take up this 10 inch (handle end) of your screwdriver. Epoxy both halves together around the screwdriver. When the epoxy is hard, chuck the screwdriver shaft into your lathe (3 Jaw chuck should work fine). This makes the handle concentric with the shaft and allows you to shape the handle as you want. You'll have to carefully measure the handle ferrule recess and you may loose concentricity by having to unchuck it several times to check the fit up, but no big deal. Then glue and hammer on the ferrule.
Your channel reminds me of a show that I used to watch as a kid, "Mr. Wizard". Thanks John for the always entertaining and educational videos.
I remember that show. It was a favorite of mine as well.
It has a nice flat shaft just below the handle where you can use an adjustable spanner to get more purchase without risking splitting the handle again. Nice tool thanks for the content John
12 days without a Farm Craft video is cruel and unusual punishment.
Ever thought of taking walnut shavings, then soaking em in slow setting 2 part epoxy, making a tube mold (say in a paper towel tube), compress it/pack it tightly, then turning down a handle...only problem is...wood turning "plastic" takes special precautions because the fumes and whatnot?
I have like 2 5 gallon buckets of bullet brass I got at the range, and the same metal smelter...so cool!
"A jack of all trades is a master of none, but oftentimes better than a master of one"
Keep em coming!!!!
I have been rebuilding starters and generators for 40+ years, here is a hint, tap on the case with a hammer and then use an impact screw driver and hammer and they will come out. Of course I use a big clamping tool and proper bits to get them out, but this tip will work for you.
well done jon!! glad you took the time to have a nice finish!!
Looks like a table leg. Glad to see a wood working video.
There's a local tree service here that also mills and sells rough-cut lumber/slabs and I use them a lot for my woodworking projects. It is amazing the grain and texture you can get from trees that normally would be passed up because of their imperfections. I used some cedar I got from them to make some Adirondack chars and man, they turned out to be some of the nicest ones I've seen.
Oh, and I agree with your decision on the new sponsor, sometimes even the best of us need someone to talk to. Thanks.
I made some bullet mold handles and used the burn in method to attach them to some tangs I cut from 3/16" bar. Didn't need epoxy, just gave it a couple of good taps on the end of the handle.
Well, knife makers here in Germany use the saw blades from hand-held jigsaws. They make a small (makeshift) handle and use it to widen the opening in the tool-knife handle.
Simple, cheap, efficient.
What a great find. You did a wonderful job refurbishing the screwdriver. It’ll last another 60 + years.
John it looks beautiful! Love the video! Thank you for all you do!
I’ve never thought of using CA glue as a finish. Very interesting.
Usually in cases like this I fill the cracks with resin. May have looked cool to use a contrasting colour like blue or red to highlight the cracks to go with the wood grain.
Great video 👍🏻
Walnut and black walnut are my favorite wood
I cut all the time in shorts, I just don’t do anything stupid when I’m cutting wood with a chainsaw. No corner cutting. So I agree, leave us alone safety Nelly’s ! Lol
At least until we show up missing some digits or something… haha.
If it does crack on you its because your feral was not tight enough. So before taking apart wrap the handle water tight right up to the feral and wood then soak for a week in warm water. Your little wedges will drive in easier and the cedar will bind even more to the steel. You will be happy if you get it right. Try not worry about the wood cracking in the feral. Hope this helps.
Concerning the crack in the walnut blank. Years ago I learned a trick form a master turner teacher. If you find cracks in the blank, simply make a judicious application of super glue and allow it to set overnight. Works like a charm.
Good idea using ca glue for the finish since you had to use it to prevent the cracks from being a problem and it makes the handle look old and polished by being in many hands over the years.
I have a very similar cabinet makers driver, it’s early nineteenth century, and has several interchangable steel bits, they just slot in and aren’t fixed , but sit in the brass ferule .
Thank you for bringing in a therapy related sponsor as well, I'm a big advocate of therapy and it's super important to find the right therapist to get the best results!
Well thought out and executed Mr. Craft
Definitely a satisfying video to watch the younger generations should subscribe to your channel its very informative on how to be a versatile person and pass on the important knowledge of navigating life thank you for doing great videos
I'm sorry, I have to take a quick break from this video @20:50 (aprox), because WOW that's some really nice wood grain...great look for tool handles, or anything else that size. Congrats.
Now, back to the video.
Farm Craft is such an appropriate title for the channel.
Beautiful handle!
I used to have one of those electric furnaces, and the crucibles that go with it don’t last very long at copper melting
temps. I’d recommend making an iron crucible for it so you don’t need to buy a new crucible every 3 uses .The furnace also shuts off after reaching the highest temperature in can get to.
i really enjoy watching your videos. I wish i had the time you have to fix all these things and make these videos. Having a 3 year old girl and a 4 month old boy does not allow that at this time. hopefully in the future i can let them start helping me with my projects...aka free labor! I'm still looking forward to the next John Deere Loader video. I have a 1978 JD 555 loader bought new by my grandfather with 1200 original hrs, but it sat in a barn for the last 20 years. Watching your videos really help figuring out issues i've ran into, even though they are different models. Thanks!
Happy to see your video pop up! That grain is absolutely gorgeous. Jon your IG story was funny, poor Jen lol. Viewers give this man a like, his videos are the best!
I love watching your videos. It inspires me to to do more with the talents I have.
Fantastic video. I have had great success with split end repairs on beech and maple screwdrivers and chisels. They were my grandfathers and are Victorian. Machine up a ring of brass to suitable width and shrink fit. Too old now to safely use my lathe but thank you for bringing back memories of 70 years ago being taught how, as it were. Your screwdriver looks to be quite special in design and I enjoyed the wood use; as a scientist One must always admire and stand in awe of the living organism that is to many just a tree. Thank you for posting best wishes from the UK.
Nice save with the root there, its ribbon looked beautiful, bummer about all the cracks that kept showing up. Your chisel fit was about the best option based on that tang shape. Brass and walnut is hard to beat.
Way to get back to your "roots" der hur hur. Awesome job!
I just made a walnut handle for a ball peen hammer I picked up for $1 at a garage sale. Really satisfying project after watching some of your older handle making videos. Keep em coming!
After seeing you use your Nata,
It inspired me to get in the shop and make myself one out of some walnut & old mower blades. It looks like it is a pleasure to use. Nice job on the handle.
It always amazes me the power available with the bucket of both a backhoe and a loader. It's the prying action that gives it the power. When someone says "ferrule" , I immediately think of brass, although I have seen steel ones.
Hi John, some hints to help you in wood turning. Turn to finish sanding size prior to filling cracks. Layer powder/ca if needed and spray activator each time. Thin type CA glue. Sand to finish grit...340 grit is fine to prepare to finish.
Use the blue shop towels keep folding them in half until you end up with a strip about an inch wide. Wear gloves and eye protection.... CA will sling off and get you. Dribble a groove with CA, stand aside, turn on about 400 rpms or just rotate it and it will fill the groove well. Do that to each and then sand the handle again with 400 or 600 grit until smooth.
Then squirt CA on an inch of the paper towel and slowly progress from one end to the other with the first coat. Spray with activator. Cut off the used inch of the towel with scissors and put other coats on the same way. Begin and end each coat in only one direction. Usually takes about 10 coats. End it all with some wax and polish it. Apply only in one direction from one end to the other and don't go back and forth. It acts a lot like lacquer finish as far as sanding and reapplying another coat is concerned. Thanks for the videos. I'm a fan.
Nice to see you getting back to your roots.
Fun Video. Love the Walnut. I especially love the "cracks" in the handle....... gives it character. A lovely piece for the shop. Nice job!
I had my hip replaced yesterday. I’m stuck in bed and living via proxy watching you do that. That’s exactly the kind of thing I do. You are right about burning in the handle. It is a quick way, but it is weaker. I think you did it right, like my granddad used to say, if it’s worth doing, it’s worth doing right.
Wow. Well done! That’s what we have come to expect here.
Awesome screwdriver John. Liked your lathe work. Ive been a machinist over 40 yrs now and wearing long sleeves, rings and gloves could come back to bite you. Stay safe. We all need more Farmcraft vids.
Jon.... Very nice tool... Comfy in the hand too, I'll bet... You are a man of many talents...
I so wish I had a lathe as would love to turn wood.
That was a piece of true craftsmanship what you made and you should be proud of your skills 👍
Jim Smith on Tradesman Channel has burned in draw knives to handles and they are absolutely tight on the knife when finished. You might could check it out. Absolutely amazing job on the restoration!
I prefer to fit my ferrules on the live center end of the handle. The drive center end is left long and cut off at the end. Having the ferrule end on the live center enables one to take the handle off for a fitting. I usually do the ferrule end first and press the ferrule on. This allows me to finish the ferrule on the lathe. Having the ferrule installed also provides great support to the live center end for the rest of the turning.
Its amazing how such simple things as tools can grow such large attachments to us. I have tools that I got passed down from my grandfather, father, they are not quality tools no one in our family cold afford them. so they were the "Cheap stuff from local dept stores etc. but we all took great care of them refurbished them when needed. kept them clean working edges etc. and I've had them over 60 yrs now and still use them to this day. and can remember times when I seen them in my grandad's hands and my father's hands and mine. You can't but that respect and or memory's. Thanks for sharing some of yours. great job. ECF
Hi John, great vid! When woodturning, always have your tool rest as close to work as possible. This way, less chance of tool “biting” into your work.
Cheers
I have a couple of long screwdrivers and flat and a #2 Phillips... nothing this large or nice, but seriously some of my most used tools. They are super handy for many things, not just access, but easier to use in a lot of cases. Thank you for all the videos!
nice restoration lover the selection of wood , i've worked with walnut root burl for a coffee table
Great you got back into the wood shop.
The only thing I would recommend is drilling a ping hole through the blade and ferrule then pinning it to provide a mechanical connection in addition to the epoxy.
Nice work! Way to save that tool!
In the future, if you split it instead of cut it. You will get rid of the cracks and be left with stronger wood. Just use the existing cracks to split it until you get the size of piece you need.
John - Use a hammer driven impact screwdriver on those generator brush caps. Better to break a Taiwanese bit than damage your newly restored antique screwdriver. (You did a great job!)