How to fix those flickering lights
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ก.ย. 2019
- Got a late night service call over some flickering, dimming lights that get brighter when you turn on certain appliances. All too familiar with this issue. First thing we check is the infrared on the main breaker panel before opening the cover to see the hot spots and there will be hot spots. Our voltage readings are 243 across both hot legs which is normal. Spiking to 136 volts to ground on one leg and the other leg dropping out at 108 volts. The voltage should read 120 across both legs and not fluctuate more than a few volts. The transformer on the pole needs to be replaced or there is a loose/corroded connection on the neutral conductor(utility side)is usually the culprit.
If this is happening in your home, have a licensed electrician inspect right away because this problem will usually get worse over the course of a month or two. These voltage fluctuations will suddenly appear out of nowhere and at first once you see that first flicker out of the corner of your eye you think to yourself, what the hell? You run your electric dryer, sump pump, garbage disposal, anything with heavy load and the lights on the low hot leg will dim and the spiked leg will get brighter. This reeks havoc on appliances especially all the sensitive technology we have today. So, unless you want to start shelling out cash for new flat screen TVs or laptops, have it checked by your local utility and licensed electrician before it's too late!
Most of all, it's extremely annoying after a week or so.
Edit: The utility resolved the issue. There was a badly corroded connection from the house to the pole, their jurisdiction.
This was clearly an issue on the utility company side. The neutral connection was corroded causing a loose connection. If you are having flickering lights or dimming lights when running an appliance, call your local utility company to check the outside connections from the transformer. Most of the time an electrician will not be able to fix the issue and doesn't have the jurisdiction to work beyond the residence. I ask my clients to ask their neighbors if they're having similar issues, if so call the utilities. Your neighbor is sharing the same transformer as you and may be experiencing the same problems.
If you watch the voltage fluctuates between 134 on the high side and 109 on the low side. These numbers are not good and usually this means there is an issue with the neutral connection. The voltage should be between 115 and 125 volts to ground, the closer to 120 the better.
I'm having the same issue in my kitchen, after watching this I went and turn the washing machine off and the lights stopped flickering.
@@2jzjaymoney558check with your neighbor and see if they are having similar issues, if so call the utilities
What about the electric company city ? Do they have the right to inter the house to check and problem. Do i let him in.
This is an old video but just because the issue is in the panel does not mean that the customer is out of the woods. It could be a meterbase connection which would still be the responsibility of the customer to resolve.
Thanks for your video! Out of nowhere:
Just had lights dimming on multiple circuits when running the microwave. Thought it was the microwave going bad so unplugged it. Then while sitting in my kitchen noticed when the refrigerator compressor kicked on same thing. Noticeable dimming that would stay dimmer. Opened fridge door and the light coming on caused more dimming.
Went down and checked the panel. Checked all connections at the breakers and buss with main off. All looked good and no change. Called the power co and they sent a guy out and I told him what was up and I was worried about the neutral coming in. He pulled the meter and said it looks good in the socket (my problem if bad) and then looks up at the line and noticed the neutral connection block was cocked. Said the wire fits in 2 grooves and gets clamped like that. He replaced all connections on the pole side and the weather head side and all good now.
Just wanted to mention in case anybody is having a similar problem and it’ll start ruining appliances.
My current apartment has been doing this for a while. BUT not all the time. There will be periods of time where everything will dim/bright for a while. Then months of just...normal.
Idk what is going on. You can see it in the whole complex I'm in too.
Just glad I'm getting out of here real soon.
Complain with office. Save somebody's life!
Could a device that changes high an low current states within seconds or milliseconds (up and down 5-10 amp spikes from a high powered computer) cause flickering? Is that unsafe or just annoying for sensitive LED lighting due to the voltage droop?
I upgraded all my bulbs to LED a few years ago.. and all was fine. Then I upgraded my tank water heater to a big 3 line electric water heater. Everything was working fine. Then 6 months later we noticed some new LED bulbs flickering when water is heating. The old bulbs that don't flicker are Ecosmart daylight 120v 60hz 9.5w 193ma 840 Lumens non-dimmable . The new bulbs that flicker are Ecosmart 120v 60hz 9.5w 171ma 840lm non-dimmable and 120v 60hz 9.5w 150ma 800lm non-dimmable. I also tried 9w and 8w bulbs and dimmable from other brands. Everything new flickers. I'm sure my system is too big for my house and this 200 amp service. About to call an electrician and possibly downgrading my water heater. We have 3 bathrooms, 1 kitchen, 4 adult occupants.
I recently noticed power fluctuations in my window fan and other fans and now the lights are flickering. I seem to be getting fluctuations all over. Any thoughts? Ty.
Thanks man.
I'm wanting to be able to load test ac. I thought about useing resistors like a shunt but I don't know if they make them for ac. my house meter box has 240v but my home has no 240v. Only 120v even though both legs show 120v. I'm thinking the meter box has bad connections because its ancient. I want to pull my home legs from the breaker and hook of a 220 device to the main breaker under the meter box to see if it works. I would love an actual way of producing a steady load. Thanks so much!
Edit: By the way I have had the utility company out and they say I don't know what I'm talking about. I paid a licensed electrician to come out and check it and he agrees its on the utility side as well. I mainly want to pull a load from the main break under the meter box and show the utility man that its simply not possible. I own dc load testers but cant find one online for ac.
If you have 2 legs with both hot, with ~120vac to ground or neutral than you have split phase 240v service.. unless your wiring in your home is knob and tube or you have a fuse panal rather than a circuit breaker panel then you have a split phase utility. I think you just have no clue about residential electricity and should definately not go playing with it. Especially if you thought about sticking resistors in the fuckin thing.
Plus you think theres ac and dc resistors.. you got a lot to learn and only one life bub.. dont be a jackass..
If you have 2 legs with both hot, with ~120vac to ground or neutral than you have split phase 240v service.. unless your wiring in your home is knob and tube or you have a fuse panal rather than a circuit breaker panel then you have a split phase utility. I think you just have no clue about residential electricity and should definately not go playing with it. Especially if you thought about sticking resistors in the fuckin thing.
Plus you think theres ac and dc resistors.. you got a lot to learn and only one life bub.. dont be a jackass..
I have the same issue. Thanks
Never even showed how to fix them
He told you. Either a neutral, utility, or xfrm with 99 percent of the time being utility. Check for loose neutrals ok breakers and meter/panel. Contact your utility company if you are not an electrician
Hello random person. I have had flickering lights for over a year - but today I was cutting my hair with clippers and when the light dimmed, my clippers changed speed like I was on a power converter in europe. Called the electricity company today, they are sending someone out to check xformer and connections to the house. Let the fun begin. I may be back,to reabsorb… Fingers crossed.
If the issue is on the side of of the utility company are they required to fix it? I'm having the same issue in my house. All connections checked, none are loose
So my lights in my bedroom are flickering low once I turn OFF a heater. If I turn the heater back on the lights get brighter. Is this still the same issue?
Having same problem did you a find solution?
Okay so I had flickering lights at my house and it ended up being .a bad main breaker.so that's what it was if this helps
What did it cost you to replace it?
Damn my high is 126.5 and low is 117.2 but phases are or always have been equal..
What if all is good at the panel. What could cause
As he stated in the video he checked the service entrance main circuit breaker and it was tight, a loose neutral connection at the meter or even at the pole could be causing the voltage issue seen on one of the phases. When in doubt contact your utility company and they will come to check connections. Do not attempt this yourself!
If all is good at the house, meaning no loose or corroded connections up to the point of attachment, call the utility. Even if the utility can't find an issue, have another crew take a second look. I have had the utility say it's not them when it was them after another crew came out. Might of even been a third crew. If your sure, that's it. There's not many connections you need to check...
If it was a utility problem would opening all the breakers so there is no customers equipment on the line still show a problem?
@@elioselectric468 same issue I had the lineman tells me it was my "temporary" crimps on a full service I did. He was talking shit the whole time then he gets to the second pole and realizes the neutral on the pole is broken. Most of the lineman I've dealt with were cool. This guy was a dick. So I like how you mention getting utilities out a second time if the first one fails because sometimes you get a real winner.
I;m having that problem and its gotten worse. Power Co replaced the line to my house and put a monitor on the meter....Basically told me its out of their hands, as they replaced stuff outside and none of my neighbors have problems.
Same here. What did you end up doing?
Did you end up resolving the issue?
Oh Nosferatu!
It's funny that you found the problem because I've seen people with newer cars maybe 2k miles and they notice that
can't see where the black lead goes
You didn’t explain anything to me
This is not a DIY. Don't get electrocuted. Let the professionals do it
But if your neighbors are not having that problem what often goes overlooked is the minimum requirement for grounding resistance in the house which is 24 ohms. According to the Institute weights and measures and other research facilities who have done studies on the average household in America with only one grounding rod did not in any way meet the requirements of 24 ohms almost 90% of the cases 2 grounding rods had to be run 20 feet apart separated one grounding rod from the other grounding rod. This brought the grounding system well below 24 ohms. These studies were done in America Canada and Europe I have never on the public forum came across to any electricians or anyone with this knowledge. Therefore I would suggest if the lights are dimming and you're having a problem with voltage spikes run a second grounding rod 20 feet from the other. Each grounding rod must have its own 10 foot circle or cylinder of dirt which puts them twenty feet apart. There are instruments you can purchase to measure the res. In the grounding system of your house. If its to high you will have voltage spikes and dim lights (not flickering lights) when a motor turns on in the house.
Interesting... 🤔
Unless video .