That was a great demonstration of using that run scraping tool! On the cheap...here's a run scraping tip that I learned from a paint video I bought in the early 90's, that will work very well in many situations. It's not as easy to describe as it is to view it being done, but I'll try. Take a new single edge scraper blade and a new piece of 1500 wet or dry paper. Soak the paper with water and shake off the excess water. Lay the paper on a hard flat surface. A piece of glass is ideal. But a hard counter top works too. While holding the backing part of the single edge blade, with the wide sharp edge laying evenly on the paper, drag the blade across the paper, just in one direction, leaning the blade at about a 30 degree angle with the paper as you pull. Don't push the blade or go back and forth or side to side. Do not flip it over. Just drag/pull the blade across the paper in one straight direction, using light pressure on the edge as you drag it. Lift the blade off the paper and lay the edge back on a fresh part of the paper and drag it in the same straight direction again. Do it several times. The bottom side of the blade edge that you're sanding remains smooth as you pull it along the paper, but the top side of the edge "kicks up" a little bit as you're doing this, so you are creating a very tiny "bur" along that top side of the blade edge. Once you've done that, flip the blade over, so the "bur" side is now facing down. That will be your scraping side. So now you've created a fine scraper by basically dragging this blade edge across the ultra-fine wet sanding paper like this, creating a burred edge that you can scrape runs and other defects down with. It further helps to curve the blade. The curved blade helps to be more precise with your scraping. With the burred side of the blade facing down, place your thumbs on top of the blade, push down in the middle and bend the blade in a slight "U" shape, which makes the blade bowed, like a "smile" shape. The ends of the blade edge with be bowed upward. The center of the blade will be curved slightly downward. Pull the burred edge of the blade across the run or defect, angling the blade a bit as you drag it, and it shaves the defect down. Repeat the shaving until the defect is flat. The ends/sides of the blade being bent slightly upward keep them from digging into the paint surrounding the defect, while you're scraping. 1500 grit and 2000 grit paper was recommended in the video to make the scraper edge, but I've also used 1000 and 1200 paper for a little more aggressive bur. It's really a fast, simple thing to do. Just takes a lot of words to explain it 🙂.
I am just getting into painting, but I will never be professional or have my own spray booth. It's really helpful to see practical ways to work around challenges that come with less-than-ideal environment. Thank you so much for these videos!
Great series Brian. I’m glad to see your little guy supervising. Cut and buff was my trick for a mirror finish. Thanks for all the tips and tricks. I really appreciate all the time you spend putting these top notch videos together. Enjoy your New Years with your beautiful family.
Great video and good recovery of that mess that happened. A few of us would still like to see you use the turbine spray equipment. I have friends that use them for projects and painting cars. Parts and completes. They are great due to the lack of oil and moisture in the system.
Brian don’t sell yourself short man…we’re painters at body shops..we are the original detailers…and behind every good painter there’s an even better buffer…guys like you and I are the ones that catch all the tricks that detailers attempt to get away with…our attention to detail is second to none…just like your channel…always a pleasure man no matter how many times I’ve done the same things and watched you do it too we keep on moving forward and make the next job better
Just wanted to say a big thank u Brian after watching your videos I decided to have a go at painting my own car and with all the tips and advice u give my paint job came out amazing so a very big thank u my friend!!
The razor blade tip to remove runs is a great tip. A good way to prepare the blade is to slightly bend it to create a slightly curved shape, then using 400 grit wet or dry paper on a hard surface hold the blade straight up and pull it across the paper with the curved side out. This creates a microscopic bur on the outside curved side and this is what does the cutting. It can be resharpened if necessary. The curve helps keep the corners of the blade away from the surface. Hold the blade at a slight angle - just enough to get it to cut pulling it in the cutting direction only. As always thank you for all of your great tips!
Another great video Brian. I’ve said it before but it’s always a blessing in disguise when things go wrong for you. Though it sucks for you it really is nice to see the problems and ridiculous stuff happens the same to season professionals as it does to us novice painters.
Looks great!! If I've learned anything watching yours videos, it's these things. Prep work is NEVER time wasted. Be consistent. Used decent equipment (not necessarily the best). Be clean and probably most crucial....be patient! Thanks for showing us how to do it!
Coat run areas with spot putty . I use da sander with 220 -400 -800- 1500- 3000 putty protects adjacent level areas while aggressive 220 cuts the thick run. I also use wool bonnet for quicker knockdown with 3M #1 following with foam #2 and#3
Very cool! I got a couple clear coat runs on my hood I know how to correct now. I had a paint assistant at a Chevy dealer repaint my truck in my driveway as a side job. It was cheap but still looks better than it did. There still are a lot of other areas I'd like to address. 27 yr. Old truck I'm trying to keep. Just about finished with engine & wiring harness rebuild.
Happy New Year. God bless you & Everyone apart of the PaintSociety family. Thanks for dropping new videos consistently with us DIY/garage painters in mind. All The Best into this New Year Champ. 🫡
Brian thank you so much for the education!! You have inspired me and given me the confidence to paint our 1980 Fiat Spider. Whole car color change, trunk, doors/jambs, and engine bay. To make things even more challenging we chose 2 stage color and then clear. I used all Eastwood products: epoxy primer, 2k urethane, under color, top color and clear. It came out better than I could have hoped for, in most places it’s “perfect”, however I have a few runs and some gnarly orange peel in places. I painted it at the end of September before it got cold. I live I Maine and have an unheated barn, so it will be at least a month until I get back to it. I got the Buflex polishing assortment, but if it takes too long to get the texture down can I start with something a bit more aggressive? Thanks again for your awesome vids!!
Happy New Year to you and family. The hood looks great for an at home project. I'm very glad you show issues and corrections, did guys can't always afford to repaint a panel or two because of a small spot. Great series
When I use a razor blade I round the corners also but tape the ends to ensure when scraping the highest part of the run I don’t accidentally make to deep a scratch. Once it’s closer I remove the tape go a little more before switching to sand paper.
I know a painter who uses filler to cover runs then sands them out.The first time someone showed him he was like no way,but now that is his only way he does it .He even posted a video of it.
Awesome "home remedy" series. I wish I could justify $70 for that Festool run eliminator, but I'll just keep using a single edge razor blade. That's worked great for me, just have to be REAL careful! Those small blocks also work great. Of course, the key is to not have a run in the first place, but that's not likely for noobs like me. Thank you for all the tips and tricks!
What rpm do you cut and buff with? I typically wet sand runs in a few stages. Every 4 to 12 hours. Using hot water helps the clear not curl on the paper. I find that once you break the hard shell of the clear, it helps expedite the drying process. Once it’s hard, I scrape it down with a razor. I know some people like the body filler trick, but I don’t like the idea of the chemical reaction drying process occurring on top of freshly sprayed clear. Clear coat takes longer than most people realize to fully cure and stop releasing fumes.
That was a lot of work, but it came out really nice. The worst possible scenario is ideal for me because everything I try to paint looks like shit! haha. So I need all the fix it videos you can come up with. I'm still waiting for that T-bone on the barbecue video Mr. Brian LOL. Luckily I don't need help with that. It was a really good video and I learned a lot as usual - Thank you for all your videos, they are much appreciated!
@@PaintSociety That still sounds good to me! Hey Brian, I just ordered a Festool replacement for your tool. It is only $39 on Amazon. It wasn't there yesterday when I was looking. I have always enjoyed my Festool pin nailer and other products when I was building custom cabinetry. I hope some of the other people will see this post.
Great job as always Brian, you've taught me a lot and I really appreciate the information. Happy new year to you and the family also to the paint society. Quick question, what if during correction sanding you pass base coat, how do you correct that?
Nice job ! I appreciate your videos a lot, thanks for sharing your knowledge, unfortunately that small tungsten cutter sells for $ 175.00 here in Canada, what a rip off !
I just got the Milwaukee sander as well and was curious if you could still use the 3/16'' to refine the clear since they also make a 3/32'' for that purpose.
The best way I have ever used was to spread some polyester putty (2 part) over the run and the surrounding area. Wet sand the putty ONLY with like 600 until the putty and run is gone, then follow with 1000, 1500, 2500 etc and buff. Works great!
You should really look into CSI Ceram-X polish as it's a 1 product cut and buff system that's water-based, so no BS fillers like many of the legacy products contain. Wysiwyg with CSI. Just go from wool to foam and it can pull out 1000 grit scratches with ease, so 2k-3k is super fast and easy. Tom Horvath us the owner and developer of the system, really good guy and honest. Worth a look for sure.
Would you recommend the Milwaukee DA sander for wet sanding? Was looking at a few DA’s and i already have a ton of m12 batteries and chargers and if it’s good for that application then i will definitely pick one up. Starting my painting setup and wanted to get a solid setup to start painting motorcycles and project vehicles. Your channel has been super helpful!
*My "Insane Trick" to Remove Paint Runs is a Smaller Spigot on the Hose **_(smaller fluid tip and air cap on the SATA/Iwata)_* *_Signed: A 38-year I-Car, BASF, Glasurit, Diamont, Limco, Sherwin Williams, PRO-Spray Certified ... Car Painter._** hahaha LOL* *(Razor Blades, STECK Block - the best is a Fine Tooth Criss Cross Vixen File with the edges dressed down I made myself)*
@@PaintSociety *_An ex Ford Factory Paint Hospital Tech showed me what they use at the plant that was TOP SECRET at that time. Get a Fine Tooth Cross Hatch Vixen File. Cut it down into various lengths and sizes with a wizzer wheel. Dress down the edges with a grinder then a D.A. Sander. And Wha-La. But be sure to test it on a junk fender 1st tho. Great channel Brian... KUTGW_*
Abandon the turbine, those are expensive anyways and does not spray very well. Are you gonna color match the flares? I painted textured plastic before, but i sanded it, sealed, then sprayed single stage semi gloss black. I lowered the pressure on the gun to spray big droplets, came out good. Looked just like oem plastic texture with permanent trim dressing.
I’m really not trying to criticise a great job. But I was a BMW technician.And the dealership had their own body repair shop! I was talking to the Body shop manager,and I said to him,when I tried spraying I did ok,but runs were awful.He said if a painter here has a run.He has one chance left! If he gets a run on another job? He’s gone. He said as far as I’m concerned we have the top line spray booth. So! Any problems are the sprayers lack of ability. Then he said to me,you must know back at the dealership,that we have had to let two sprayers go! The two we have now are top line!
i recently flow coated my car and on the roof i must of rushed and i got solvent pop. so there is a fair chance if i start low enough grit i can remove majority of the pop ?
I’m just a detailer and I think u did a great job over all but after the 3000grit sand paper u can go right into polishing u didn’t need a compound just polish and a polishing pad make life easy bro lol
I suggest you research TH-cam videos by people repairing guitars to see how they remove high spots with a razor blade similar to the runs you encounter. th-cam.com/video/rTVScFJoe24/w-d-xo.html
One thing that bothered me about your channel was you kept stating "Do-it-yourself" but you were filming in a body shop. Nice to see you are going away from that from here on out.
Painters Denibber Spot Repair Tool: Made of sturdy tungsten steel, it will not be damaged even if it is dropped on the ground! Get it from that "A" online store $33. TEHAUX 1 Set Carbide Spot Repair Scraper. Why spend $80+ bucks when you can get one that does exactly the same thing for much less. Tungsten vs. Carbide. Hey we are scraping only clearcoat :) The indentations on the tool Brian was using are for cleaning up router marks. 1mm, 1.5mm and 2mm not thousands of an inch designations.
That was a great demonstration of using that run scraping tool!
On the cheap...here's a run scraping tip that I learned from a paint video I bought in the early 90's, that will work very well in many situations. It's not as easy to describe as it is to view it being done, but I'll try. Take a new single edge scraper blade and a new piece of 1500 wet or dry paper. Soak the paper with water and shake off the excess water. Lay the paper on a hard flat surface. A piece of glass is ideal. But a hard counter top works too. While holding the backing part of the single edge blade, with the wide sharp edge laying evenly on the paper, drag the blade across the paper, just in one direction, leaning the blade at about a 30 degree angle with the paper as you pull. Don't push the blade or go back and forth or side to side. Do not flip it over. Just drag/pull the blade across the paper in one straight direction, using light pressure on the edge as you drag it. Lift the blade off the paper and lay the edge back on a fresh part of the paper and drag it in the same straight direction again. Do it several times. The bottom side of the blade edge that you're sanding remains smooth as you pull it along the paper, but the top side of the edge "kicks up" a little bit as you're doing this, so you are creating a very tiny "bur" along that top side of the blade edge. Once you've done that, flip the blade over, so the "bur" side is now facing down. That will be your scraping side. So now you've created a fine scraper by basically dragging this blade edge across the ultra-fine wet sanding paper like this, creating a burred edge that you can scrape runs and other defects down with. It further helps to curve the blade. The curved blade helps to be more precise with your scraping. With the burred side of the blade facing down, place your thumbs on top of the blade, push down in the middle and bend the blade in a slight "U" shape, which makes the blade bowed, like a "smile" shape. The ends of the blade edge with be bowed upward. The center of the blade will be curved slightly downward. Pull the burred edge of the blade across the run or defect, angling the blade a bit as you drag it, and it shaves the defect down. Repeat the shaving until the defect is flat. The ends/sides of the blade being bent slightly upward keep them from digging into the paint surrounding the defect, while you're scraping. 1500 grit and 2000 grit paper was recommended in the video to make the scraper edge, but I've also used 1000 and 1200 paper for a little more aggressive bur. It's really a fast, simple thing to do. Just takes a lot of words to explain it 🙂.
I am just getting into painting, but I will never be professional or have my own spray booth. It's really helpful to see practical ways to work around challenges that come with less-than-ideal environment.
Thank you so much for these videos!
Great series Brian. I’m glad to see your little guy supervising. Cut and buff was my trick for a mirror finish. Thanks for all the tips and tricks. I really appreciate all the time you spend putting these top notch videos together. Enjoy your New Years with your beautiful family.
Great video and good recovery of that mess that happened. A few of us would still like to see you use the turbine spray equipment. I have friends that use them for projects and painting cars. Parts and completes. They are great due to the lack of oil and moisture in the system.
Brian don’t sell yourself short man…we’re painters at body shops..we are the original detailers…and behind every good painter there’s an even better buffer…guys like you and I are the ones that catch all the tricks that detailers attempt to get away with…our attention to detail is second to none…just like your channel…always a pleasure man no matter how many times I’ve done the same things and watched you do it too we keep on moving forward and make the next job better
Wow excellent results Brian. After watching you my confidence level has gone up about tackling a small issue i have on my car. Thanks again.
That's awesome! Thanks for watching.
Just wanted to say a big thank u Brian after watching your videos I decided to have a go at painting my own car and with all the tips and advice u give my paint job came out amazing so a very big thank u my friend!!
Best video yet thank you. I always feel that I'm doing things wrong but when a professional struggles it gives us hope
Glad you showed the festool
Its my favorite tool I’ve ever bought 👍
Life saver!
Great series B. It was great to see the final product in the vehicle!
amazing work, wouldn’t expect anything less from you 🔥
The razor blade tip to remove runs is a great tip. A good way to prepare the blade is to slightly bend it to create a slightly curved shape, then using 400 grit wet or dry paper on a hard surface hold the blade straight up and pull it across the paper with the curved side out. This creates a microscopic bur on the outside curved side and this is what does the cutting. It can be resharpened if necessary. The curve helps keep the corners of the blade away from the surface. Hold the blade at a slight angle - just enough to get it to cut pulling it in the cutting direction only. As always thank you for all of your great tips!
The work looks even better after polishing, happy new year
Another great video Brian. I’ve said it before but it’s always a blessing in disguise when things go wrong for you. Though it sucks for you it really is nice to see the problems and ridiculous stuff happens the same to season professionals as it does to us novice painters.
Its a great opportunity for everyone to learn! Ty for watching and learning with me !
Looks great!! If I've learned anything watching yours videos, it's these things. Prep work is NEVER time wasted. Be consistent. Used decent equipment (not necessarily the best). Be clean and probably most crucial....be patient! Thanks for showing us how to do it!
Thanks for watching, I agree prep is key!
*_"I'm Just a Painter" ..._** hahahaha LOL*
*"I'm Just a Pilot."*
*"I'm Just a NASCAR Driver."*
*"I'm Just a Husband on a Honeymoon Night."*
😂🤝.. Pilot...
I'm just a retired Industrial Tool Repair Technition!!
Coat run areas with spot putty . I use da sander with 220 -400 -800- 1500- 3000 putty protects adjacent level areas while aggressive 220 cuts the thick run. I also use wool bonnet for quicker knockdown with 3M #1 following with foam #2 and#3
Another type method that works, but, takes longer. All good.
Thank you very much for the effort you put into your videos
I’m glad you like them!p
Very cool! I got a couple clear coat runs on my hood I know how to correct now. I had a paint assistant at a Chevy dealer repaint my truck in my driveway as a side job. It was cheap but still looks better than it did. There still are a lot of other areas I'd like to address. 27 yr. Old truck I'm trying to keep. Just about finished with engine & wiring harness rebuild.
Happy New Year. God bless you & Everyone apart of the PaintSociety family. Thanks for dropping new videos consistently with us DIY/garage painters in mind. All The Best into this New Year Champ. 🫡
Brian thank you so much for the education!! You have inspired me and given me the confidence to paint our 1980 Fiat Spider. Whole car color change, trunk, doors/jambs, and engine bay. To make things even more challenging we chose 2 stage color and then clear. I used all Eastwood products: epoxy primer, 2k urethane, under color, top color and clear. It came out better than I could have hoped for, in most places it’s “perfect”, however I have a few runs and some gnarly orange peel in places. I painted it at the end of September before it got cold. I live I Maine and have an unheated barn, so it will be at least a month until I get back to it. I got the Buflex polishing assortment, but if it takes too long to get the texture down can I start with something a bit more aggressive? Thanks again for your awesome vids!!
Happy New Year to you and family. The hood looks great for an at home project. I'm very glad you show issues and corrections, did guys can't always afford to repaint a panel or two because of a small spot. Great series
When I use a razor blade I round the corners also but tape the ends to ensure when scraping the highest part of the run I don’t accidentally make to deep a scratch. Once it’s closer I remove the tape go a little more before switching to sand paper.
That is smart 👌
It’s the only way to do. Well said
Happy new year 🇦🇷🇦🇷
Happy New Year!
I'm just starting out and 100% agree, you think you've flattened out a run but then find you still see it!
I know a painter who uses filler to cover runs then sands them out.The first time someone showed him he was like no way,but now that is his only way he does it .He even posted a video of it.
Yes it does work but its sketchy lol
@@PaintSociety It actually works extremely well I'm only about 5 years in spraying and I do this anytime I get a run
I’m going to order that scraper asap. Thanks my guy!
I would be happy with that looks awesome!
Nice job!
3D Car Care products has a hybrid compound/Polish called 3D One. They also have a wax/polish called 3D Speed. Very good products!!
Awesome "home remedy" series. I wish I could justify $70 for that Festool run eliminator, but I'll just keep using a single edge razor blade. That's worked great for me, just have to be REAL careful! Those small blocks also work great. Of course, the key is to not have a run in the first place, but that's not likely for noobs like me. Thank you for all the tips and tricks!
Good teaching video thanks
GREAT JOB...PRO STYLE.
Been following your examples and over the xmas break I sprayed a Mini bonnet, it came out almost factory, and that was with rattle cans!
Nice job. Happy new year 🎆
What rpm do you cut and buff with?
I typically wet sand runs in a few stages. Every 4 to 12 hours. Using hot water helps the clear not curl on the paper. I find that once you break the hard shell of the clear, it helps expedite the drying process. Once it’s hard, I scrape it down with a razor.
I know some people like the body filler trick, but I don’t like the idea of the chemical reaction drying process occurring on top of freshly sprayed clear. Clear coat takes longer than most people realize to fully cure and stop releasing fumes.
Happy new years sir!
Hey Bryan happy new year! Thanx for posting video by italian auto translation 😂😂. See you on next video
That was a lot of work, but it came out really nice. The worst possible scenario is ideal for me because everything I try to paint looks like shit! haha. So I need all the fix it videos you can come up with. I'm still waiting for that T-bone on the barbecue video Mr. Brian LOL. Luckily I don't need help with that. It was a really good video and I learned a lot as usual - Thank you for all your videos, they are much appreciated!
Tonight was surf n turf lol
@@PaintSociety That still sounds good to me! Hey Brian, I just ordered a Festool replacement for your tool. It is only $39 on Amazon. It wasn't there yesterday when I was looking. I have always enjoyed my Festool pin nailer and other products when I was building custom cabinetry. I hope some of the other people will see this post.
Send the link
Great job as always Brian, you've taught me a lot and I really appreciate the information. Happy new year to you and the family also to the paint society. Quick question, what if during correction sanding you pass base coat, how do you correct that?
Nice job ! I appreciate your videos a lot, thanks for sharing your knowledge, unfortunately that small tungsten cutter sells for $ 175.00 here in Canada, what a rip off !
It is expensive, but I’ve never seen a more permanent solution.
I like those tungsten carbide blocks instead of razor blades. Have you tried one before? Happy New Year!
Happy new year everyone 🎉
Happy New Year!
Nice save! I'm so clumsy I'm sure I'd drop that carbide tool the first time I used it! That's the only reason I still use a razor blade.
That festool is worth it
Happy new year
Great video , do you use a foam interface pad when you are flatting the clear ?
Brian did you use an interface pad with the 800 grit?
I just got the Milwaukee sander as well and was curious if you could still use the 3/16'' to refine the clear since they also make a 3/32'' for that purpose.
You should be using the 3/32. I used the 3/16 here and it was a little more work in the buffing stage
By sanding clear down with 800 are you greatly reducing UV protection with little mils left over?
I got 3 coats on it. 😀 its got plenty of mils but yes it will reduce it
Happy NY! What grit to start with if its not "so bad" - 1200, 2000?
Hello, which types of paints are good to use on your car or panel.....and to choose the correct paint
Before removing your hood, drill 1/8 inch holes in your hinge and frame of the hood for a perfect alignment 21:48 😊
Maybe I missed it , is the Milwaukee random orbital sander being used for sanding clearcoat a 3/16 or 3/32 throw?
3/16
@ thanks!
Brian, what brand is the Swirl Remover? Thx!
Turbowax. Its my buddies company that i support. Its a great product.
The best way I have ever used was to spread some polyester putty (2 part) over the run and the surrounding area. Wet sand the putty ONLY with like 600 until the putty and run is gone, then follow with 1000, 1500, 2500 etc and buff. Works great!
I have used a razor to remove sags and runs and it works great. Of course, I sand the edge of the blade with 800 grid, not the sidewalk, lol
Try the sidewalk. It takes the edge off
You should really look into CSI Ceram-X polish as it's a 1 product cut and buff system that's water-based, so no BS fillers like many of the legacy products contain. Wysiwyg with CSI. Just go from wool to foam and it can pull out 1000 grit scratches with ease, so 2k-3k is super fast and easy. Tom Horvath us the owner and developer of the system, really good guy and honest. Worth a look for sure.
Would you recommend the Milwaukee DA sander for wet sanding? Was looking at a few DA’s and i already have a ton of m12 batteries and chargers and if it’s good for that application then i will definitely pick one up. Starting my painting setup and wanted to get a solid setup to start painting motorcycles and project vehicles. Your channel has been super helpful!
Yes. It will work. I hear its on backorder already
@ from all the stuff i see on it, it seems like a really good cordless DA for wet sanding and getting a really flat clear coat
If you know how to use a DA sander, this will be no different from the air Sanders other than just being more portable
I have a question, I’m using urethane 2k primer what parts store spray primer is ok to use to touch up burns ?
Just use some etch primer
Does it make any difference if you start on the top of the car or the bottom?
Top of the run
can you make a video on how to calculate prices of a paint job? how to give estimates you dont need to use numbers
Around $450 per panel
*My "Insane Trick" to Remove Paint Runs is a Smaller Spigot on the Hose **_(smaller fluid tip and air cap on the SATA/Iwata)_*
*_Signed: A 38-year I-Car, BASF, Glasurit, Diamont, Limco, Sherwin Williams, PRO-Spray Certified ... Car Painter._** hahaha LOL*
*(Razor Blades, STECK Block - the best is a Fine Tooth Criss Cross Vixen File with the edges dressed down I made myself)*
Haha I'm going to try that
@@PaintSociety *_An ex Ford Factory Paint Hospital Tech showed me what they use at the plant that was TOP SECRET at that time. Get a Fine Tooth Cross Hatch Vixen File. Cut it down into various lengths and sizes with a wizzer wheel. Dress down the edges with a grinder then a D.A. Sander. And Wha-La. But be sure to test it on a junk fender 1st tho. Great channel Brian... KUTGW_*
Hope you have a happy new year! First comment. lol
Second lol! Almost. Happy new year!
@ haha dang I couldn’t see his comment yet.
Abandon the turbine, those are expensive anyways and does not spray very well. Are you gonna color match the flares? I painted textured plastic before, but i sanded it, sealed, then sprayed single stage semi gloss black. I lowered the pressure on the gun to spray big droplets, came out good. Looked just like oem plastic texture with permanent trim dressing.
I’m really not trying to criticise a great job. But I was a BMW technician.And the dealership had their own body repair shop! I was talking to the Body shop manager,and I said to him,when I tried spraying I did ok,but runs were awful.He said if a painter here has a run.He has one chance left! If he gets a run on another job? He’s gone. He said as far as I’m concerned we have the top line spray booth. So! Any problems are the sprayers lack of ability.
Then he said to me,you must know back at the dealership,that we have had to let two sprayers go! The two we have now are top line!
Beautiful looks good
that hood looks too good, sir!
i recently flow coated my car and on the roof i must of rushed and i got solvent pop. so there is a fair chance if i start low enough grit i can remove majority of the pop ?
Yes definitely
0:30 You should get a spray bottle of water and spray it every 30 seconds or so.
Learned that 25 years ago
Let’s me know not to use a turbine sprayer and a inflatable booth, if Brian has trouble with it, there is no use in me trying to
Scrape with a razor blade,but the clear has to be completely dry,maybe a couple days
I’m just a detailer and I think u did a great job over all but after the 3000grit sand paper u can go right into polishing u didn’t need a compound just polish and a polishing pad make life easy bro lol
Awesome. I will try that!
Hitting the razor.against concrete will set you back
Magnifying it will show you what I mean.
The festool is superior
Vid posted 10 secs ago 🫡
Happy New Year!
@@PaintSociety Thanks you too! 🎉
pls dont cut the timelapses of you sanding. i wanna get a feel for how long your sanding it down :)
DM me on Instagram and I’ll send you the raw version
I suggest you research TH-cam videos by people repairing guitars to see how they remove high spots with a razor blade similar to the runs you encounter. th-cam.com/video/rTVScFJoe24/w-d-xo.html
I don’t know why it added my comment three times totally unintentional
🤦🏻
On my phone watching your video,the sound went so low i couldnt hear you so im leaving
One thing that bothered me about your channel was you kept stating "Do-it-yourself" but you were filming in a body shop. Nice to see you are going away from that from here on out.
Sorry , but a razor blade isn't insane. Now, use a ffamethrower to do it and then you can call it insane.. Drop the "insane" trope.
Thank you and Happy New Year! Cheers 😀
@@PaintSociety Great video , by the way. Thanks
Put the handle on 😂
First thing i did was remove it lol
I find if the polisher grabs it can spin out of your hands and do some damage. But everyone's different 👍
Painters Denibber Spot Repair Tool: Made of sturdy tungsten steel, it will not be damaged even if it is dropped on the ground! Get it from that "A" online store $33. TEHAUX 1 Set Carbide Spot Repair Scraper. Why spend $80+ bucks when you can get one that does exactly the same thing for much less. Tungsten vs. Carbide. Hey we are scraping only clearcoat :)
The indentations on the tool Brian was using are for cleaning up router marks. 1mm, 1.5mm and 2mm not thousands of an inch designations.