👍🏾I have a video on my channel how to check the pressure switch. On my part 4 video at 2:05 I explain how to check if working. On part 3 video is replacing it.
Was the specific symptom that it fired and quickly shuts off? I have same unit doing just that. I cleaned flame sensor multiple times and tested for manifold gas pressure. It is lighting but again won’t stay lit so I’m going to get new flame sensor I think
No my heater did not fire up at all. I agree with you about the flame sensor. Obviously the unit is trying to light up but the sensor is not sensing a flame. On my unit I have "Flame Rod" type of sensor, you probably do also. Did you try to maybe clean the sensor? Sometimes just a quick wiping with a LIGHT piece of sand paper will fix the problem. OR maybe the sensor wire has come loose or been damaged?
@@Marktthehandyman ya I cleaned the sensor multiple times, my current multimeter in my bag isn’t able to read micro amps so I can’t test the actual flame signal so going on a limb here with replacement lol
@@Marktthehandyman oh okay fair enough, I have gas pressure in manifold and ignition but flame won’t stay lit. Going to try new flame sensor and hope for the best. Thank you for replying and making the video. Huge help to troubleshoot
When I removed the glow igniter, I just watched it go through its cycle and it turned orange. Be careful that you’re not holding it on the part that’s going to glow and once it starts to glow, I would turn it off. Usually if there’s something wrong with them Internally, you’ll be able to see a crack or some kind of breakage in the igniter
@@Marktthehandyman thanks. I did the same thing. My Hayward is 2 years old. Looks clean inside. I checked two of the unions and they looked good. The ignitor lit up orange and looks good. I'm going to order a new valve. I couldn't find the switch.
How did you get the old gas valve off??? can you show me?? we cannot get it unscrewed from the ignition manifold! How do we check if the valve is bad?!! HELP pLEASE Ours worked for 3 weeks then quit the heater is only 4 years old. Can we take it to a plumbing place to unscrew it?? If you help me it may save me 3k It will not unscrew from the black manifold pipe!! ugh
You’re right is was difficult. I used a 12” and 15” pipe wrench with a cheater bar(pipe) wrench on both. A second set of hands is a good idea. I lucked out finding a replacement. The pool store where I bought the pool had one in stock. ($300). My pool is less than three years old. I was very surprised that was the problem.
As far as trouble shooting the problem I just eliminated what I thought would have been the obvious and finally concluded by checking the igniter and voltage on the gas valve. I removed the wires on the gas valves and checked voltage during start up. I also checked the inlet gas pressure (7” water column) and then checked the outlet gas pressure which was 0” water column). I just retired from the skilled trades where I was a pipefitter early in my career.
I've been in the skilled trades since 1975. I have a lot of tools, one of them is a manometer that measures pressure measured in inches of water. I measured the inlet pressure by disconnecting the piping on the inlet of the gas valve and connecting the manometer to the piping. I measured the outlet pressure of the gas valve by removing the 1/8" plug on the outlet of the Gas valve (on the valve) and attached my manometer. I turned the heater on and let it run through it's start up cycle to see if the pressure increased when I heard and felt the gas valve solenoid get energized. It did not show any pressure. If you don't have a manometer you can remove the gas valve, run the heater through it's start up cycle and blow through the inlet of the gas valve. If it is working you will be able to blow though the gas valve.
You missed the most important test... the gas valve; you just replaced it rather than test it. I was looking for a purging of possible air in the line.
Actually I did test the gas valve operation. I confirmed that it was being energized during the start up cycle. I didn’t show it, but I removed the gas valve and added the 24 volts and confirmed it was definitely not opening. As far as the purging, when I removed the gas valve I did purge the gas line and definitely confirmed the gas was present. If it would have been the problem I would have shown that part of the video. I wasn’t comfortable asking the viewers to purge a gas line especially if like my unit the unit was operating properly the day before. Maybe if it was a spring start up. Thanks for your input.
Any direction on how to check the gas pressure please help
👍🏾I have a video on my channel how to check the pressure switch. On my part 4 video at 2:05 I explain how to check if working. On part 3 video is replacing it.
Thank you bro! You are the man
👍 No problem!!!
Was the specific symptom that it fired and quickly shuts off? I have same unit doing just that. I cleaned flame sensor multiple times and tested for manifold gas pressure. It is lighting but again won’t stay lit so I’m going to get new flame sensor I think
No my heater did not fire up at all. I agree with you about the flame sensor. Obviously the unit is trying to light up but the sensor is not sensing a flame. On my unit I have "Flame Rod" type of sensor, you probably do also. Did you try to maybe clean the sensor? Sometimes just a quick wiping with a LIGHT piece of sand paper will fix the problem. OR maybe the sensor wire has come loose or been damaged?
@@Marktthehandyman ya I cleaned the sensor multiple times, my current multimeter in my bag isn’t able to read micro amps so I can’t test the actual flame signal so going on a limb here with replacement lol
I think that’s a pretty safe limb to climb on though
So you replaced the gas valve?? It wasn’t a dirty or bad flame sensor?
No the valve had 24 volts but was not opening. In my experience in HVAV a two year old gas valve failing is not common.
@@Marktthehandyman oh okay fair enough, I have gas pressure in manifold and ignition but flame won’t stay lit. Going to try new flame sensor and hope for the best. Thank you for replying and making the video. Huge help to troubleshoot
How did you verify that the glow ignitor was working?
When I removed the glow igniter, I just watched it go through its cycle and it turned orange. Be careful that you’re not holding it on the part that’s going to glow and once it starts to glow, I would turn it off. Usually if there’s something wrong with them Internally, you’ll be able to see a crack or some kind of breakage in the igniter
@@Marktthehandyman thanks. I did the same thing. My Hayward is 2 years old. Looks clean inside. I checked two of the unions and they looked good. The ignitor lit up orange and looks good. I'm going to order a new valve. I couldn't find the switch.
Good job. Two years(just like mine). That’s not a good track record.
How did you get the old gas valve off??? can you show me?? we cannot get it unscrewed from the ignition manifold! How do we check if the valve is bad?!! HELP pLEASE Ours worked for 3 weeks then quit the heater is only 4 years old. Can we take it to a plumbing place to unscrew it?? If you help me it may save me 3k It will not unscrew from the black manifold pipe!! ugh
You’re right is was difficult. I used a 12” and 15” pipe wrench with a cheater bar(pipe) wrench on both. A second set of hands is a good idea. I lucked out finding a replacement. The pool store where I bought the pool had one in stock. ($300). My pool is less than three years old. I was very surprised that was the problem.
As far as trouble shooting the problem I just eliminated what I thought would have been the obvious and finally concluded by checking the igniter and voltage on the gas valve. I removed the wires on the gas valves and checked voltage during start up. I also checked the inlet gas pressure (7” water column) and then checked the outlet gas pressure which was 0” water column). I just retired from the skilled trades where I was a pipefitter early in my career.
I've been in the skilled trades since 1975. I have a lot of tools, one of them is a manometer that measures pressure measured in inches of water. I measured the inlet pressure by disconnecting the piping on the inlet of the gas valve and connecting the manometer to the piping. I measured the outlet pressure of the gas valve by removing the 1/8" plug on the outlet of the Gas valve (on the valve) and attached my manometer. I turned the heater on and let it run through it's start up cycle to see if the pressure increased when I heard and felt the gas valve solenoid get energized. It did not show any pressure. If you don't have a manometer you can remove the gas valve, run the heater through it's start up cycle and blow through the inlet of the gas valve. If it is working you will be able to blow though the gas valve.
Great video
Thanks
You missed the most important test... the gas valve; you just replaced it rather than test it. I was looking for a purging of possible air in the line.
Actually I did test the gas valve operation. I confirmed that it was being energized during the start up cycle. I didn’t show it, but I removed the gas valve and added the 24 volts and confirmed it was definitely not opening. As far as the purging, when I removed the gas valve I did purge the gas line and definitely confirmed the gas was present. If it would have been the problem I would have shown that part of the video. I wasn’t comfortable asking the viewers to purge a gas line especially if like my unit the unit was operating properly the day before. Maybe if it was a spring start up. Thanks for your input.