I know it's been two years since you put out this video, but like everyone else I was reading in the comments, this video also save me a service call and frustration, not only did I have a bad rocker switch, I also had a bad pressure switch, so after replacing both of those my daughter is a happy camper. I thank you, and she really thanks you.
Literally 5 minutes after watching your video, I got my pool heater running just by trying your first suggestion! Awesome. Saved me a ton of money. Thank you!
Perfect timing. The pilot is lit but the burners won’t fire up. I was just thinking it was the toggle switch also. We changed it a few years ago. I’m saving this video for my husband. Thank you
VERY helpful, thank you! Our heater fires up when I giggle the wires from the pressure switch, but turns off after a couple hours. I'm thinking the pressure switch or wires. The wires are old, is it worth replacing them and if so...do you have a product number for the wires from the pressure switch? Thank you in advance.
Thanks Scott and I don't have part numbers at the moment but if you replace the connector on each wire going to the pressure switch you should be fine. I have never had to replace wires unless they were melted just need some fresh wire on the end and connector. Give it a try
Being very new to Mulitmeter's (MM) I have to ask.....what is the millivolt number I should be achieving when testing with a multimeter? Also...because I've never used a MM what setting should I set it to....(I'm buying one this week)....my Lite2 will not come on at all now...I've tried your switch trick, pressure switch trick but still nothing so now I thought I'd check the milivolts.
Your pilot generator or thermopile should be producing 550 millivolt at the red and white wires coming from it. I would start there because if that's dirty with soot or wore out than it produces problems with power for the whole heater. Your multi meter will come with instructions they are all a bit different with there settings and symbols.
@@Poolelementary Thanks for the help....I got it working by cleaning the thermopile. Was working great until the temperature sensor wires broke from years of corrosion....is this part even required? is it easily replaceable? Can it be safely bypassed as I only turn on the heater when I want it on then turn it off when done...
I have the exact same heater but the problem Im having is when lighting the pilot, when I release the button from the PILOT position to the ON position the pilot wont stay lit. Any idea?
Try cleaning the thermocouple which the pilot flame heats up. Should be right above the pilot light. Use steel wool or emery cloth if you can. If this doesn't work it might be the valve or gas supply problem.
@@Poolelementary when I removed the thermocouple it was pretty clean but I noticed the wire was in rough shape so I did a continuity test and it failed. I looked closer at the wire and found a small break. I changed the wire and Im getting current now but the pilot light still won't stay on. Could the thermocouple output be too low? Is there a way to disable that and just have the pilot light stay on permanently regardless of the switch? Im aware of the safety issues ..this would be for testing purposes only.
I can only get the heater to work now if I jumper the PP-TH to the TH on the valve. AS this is bypassing the safety switches this is not a good solution. My question by doing this am I bypassing the limit switches or another switch I'm not aware of? Should I be looking at replacing the wire harness and both limit switches?
Any idea what it could be, if the pool heater takes almost 10 mins before it fires up? I don't know what it could be that takes so long before it fires up? Any suggestions on what to check for?
If it's a millivolt heater it might be that the pilot generator is dirty or going out. I would make sure it's in good condition and clean it's what powers the whole unit off of the pilot light
@@Poolelementary the pilot light is on the whole time no issues there, strange. Also one more question on the roll out switch both wires are red, I took them off to by pass the rollout switch and now I'm not sure if the one on the right goes to the gas valve or is it the one on the left going to the gas valve? Thanks for the reply :)
@@Poolelementary Sorry to bother you, but after a few hours the heater came on. I thought that was strange any idea why the heater would fire up after a few hours? Again thank you in advance!
With out testing everything I can't really give you a reason other than its got to be a weak power supply going somewhere. Could be a connection or like I said before a pilot generator going bad its hard to tell without using a multimeter and testing the millivolt at each link.
Hello James, yes should pull out but should be replaced. Normally when those go out they are corroded and water has gotten inside of the actual switch.
Hello it might be the fusible link. The fusible link is a safety mechanism that when the inside compartment of the heater gets to Hot it blows and prevents power getting to the heater to turn it on or let it ignite a flame.
Not at the moment I was hoping it was the fusible link because that's an easy fix but now it could be just about anything. If I think of something I missed I will get back to you.
Good catch Russell we have these fusible links go out all the time in the hot summer months.should of had it in the video! Anyways if you go to Amazon and search Zodiac R0012200 it should come up and I think there's one on there for 7 bucks or so. Thanks for watching and good luck with your pool project. Pool elementary
Should be screwed to the inside panel on the left side about half way up. When you get your part you will have no problem finding it. Easy fix two screws, two wire connections and your done!
Hi Russell. I only have 1 or 2 of those specific heaters in my neck of the woods and have only replaced the one in the front main area of the heater so not certain where the other one goes or if there is two on that heater. Sorry
Helping my friend troubleshoot his heater. Only turning on when dial is set to max temp. Turn is just slightly back to cold and it shuts off. Any suggestions?
Checked all you said to and heater will still not run. What should I get for a reading on my thermopile when pilot light is lit? Im thinking thats the issue. There is also a red blinking light on the black box behind the gas valve when pilot is lit and gas valve is in on postion. Any suggestions?
The Tp terminal and the TH/TP terminal should have 500MV. The blinking light should mean that your pilot generator is making power to turn your gas valve on. these older heaters are stubborn sometimes. Have you checked your fusible link to see if it has power on both sides of it?
If the pilot light turns off as soon as you release the gas valve I always start at the pilot generator after making sure all wires have good connection meaning cleaning them with small wire brush.
Your not alone. I hear this quite often with new home owners that inherited a pool with their purchase. I myself feel your pain as I still get frustrated with pools that are not kept simple and are over done with technology. The good news is your fixing things yourself and that is the best teacher of your pool and it will save you money in the long run. Good luck TrollGubbe
Just watched your video and you saved me a service call! You explained everything in plain terms and I can't thank you enough.
Thanks for watching M W and glad you got your pool project figured out.
I know it's been two years since you put out this video, but like everyone else I was reading in the comments, this video also save me a service call and frustration, not only did I have a bad rocker switch, I also had a bad pressure switch, so after replacing both of those my daughter is a happy camper. I thank you, and she really thanks you.
Literally 5 minutes after watching your video, I got my pool heater running just by trying your first suggestion! Awesome. Saved me a ton of money. Thank you!
Thanks for watching Sly UK?
Got my heater operational again because of this video. Thank you!
Thanks for watching gregory!
Perfect timing. The pilot is lit but the burners won’t fire up. I was just thinking it was the toggle switch also. We changed it a few years ago. I’m saving this video for my husband. Thank you
Thanks for watching Linda!
You rock man! I saved a service call! Pressure sensor was the problem. Cant thank enough!
Good to hear and thanks for watching!
Great video, thanks. Found my pressure switch needed replaced.
Glad you got it figured out Don and thanks for watching the video!
Mine was a dirty pressure switch contact. Thanks man!
Thanks for watching!
Saved my summer great tip!!!!
Great to hear and thanks for watching!
It was the switch on mine
Thanks for the video
Thanks for watching!
Awesome diagnosis tips
Thanks EuroTrashy!
VERY helpful, thank you! Our heater fires up when I giggle the wires from the pressure switch, but turns off after a couple hours. I'm thinking the pressure switch or wires. The wires are old, is it worth replacing them and if so...do you have a product number for the wires from the pressure switch? Thank you in advance.
Thanks Scott and I don't have part numbers at the moment but if you replace the connector on each wire going to the pressure switch you should be fine. I have never had to replace wires unless they were melted just need some fresh wire on the end and connector. Give it a try
Being very new to Mulitmeter's (MM) I have to ask.....what is the millivolt number I should be achieving when testing with a multimeter? Also...because I've never used a MM what setting should I set it to....(I'm buying one this week)....my Lite2 will not come on at all now...I've tried your switch trick, pressure switch trick but still nothing so now I thought I'd check the milivolts.
Your pilot generator or thermopile should be producing 550 millivolt at the red and white wires coming from it. I would start there because if that's dirty with soot or wore out than it produces problems with power for the whole heater. Your multi meter will come with instructions they are all a bit different with there settings and symbols.
@@Poolelementary Thanks for the help....I got it working by cleaning the thermopile. Was working great until the temperature sensor wires broke from years of corrosion....is this part even required? is it easily replaceable? Can it be safely bypassed as I only turn on the heater when I want it on then turn it off when done...
I was thinking burned out thermocouple, or corroded thermocouple. simple switch, good fix.
This was great! Thank you!
Thank you Stan B!
I have the exact same heater but the problem Im having is when lighting the pilot, when I release the button from the PILOT position to the ON position the pilot wont stay lit. Any idea?
Try cleaning the thermocouple which the pilot flame heats up. Should be right above the pilot light. Use steel wool or emery cloth if you can. If this doesn't work it might be the valve or gas supply problem.
@@Poolelementary when I removed the thermocouple it was pretty clean but I noticed the wire was in rough shape so I did a continuity test and it failed. I looked closer at the wire and found a small break. I changed the wire and Im getting current now but the pilot light still won't stay on. Could the thermocouple output be too low? Is there a way to disable that and just have the pilot light stay on permanently regardless of the switch? Im aware of the safety issues ..this would be for testing purposes only.
I'm not aware of anyway to bypass that but if your not getting atleast 500-550 milivolts at the pp/th then you need a new thermocouple probably
@@Poolelementary ah ok..thank you!! I betcha thats it
Saved me 300 bucks - thanks!
Good deal! Glad to help another out. Thanks for watching!
Thanks- bad switch on my end too.
Thank you !!!! Rocker switch for me
I can only get the heater to work now if I jumper the PP-TH to the TH on the valve. AS this is bypassing the safety switches this is not a good solution. My question by doing this am I bypassing the limit switches or another switch I'm not aware of? Should I be looking at replacing the wire harness and both limit switches?
Do you know if the process is the same for a jandyxi
Not sure haven't worked on one yet.
Any idea what it could be, if the pool heater takes almost 10 mins before it fires up?
I don't know what it could be that takes so long before it fires up?
Any suggestions on what to check for?
If it's a millivolt heater it might be that the pilot generator is dirty or going out. I would make sure it's in good condition and clean it's what powers the whole unit off of the pilot light
@@Poolelementary the pilot light is on the whole time no issues there, strange.
Also one more question on the roll out switch both wires are red, I took them off to by pass the rollout switch and now I'm not sure if the one on the right goes to the gas valve or is it the one on the left going to the gas valve? Thanks for the reply :)
@@Poolelementary Sorry to bother you, but after a few hours the heater came on.
I thought that was strange any idea why the heater would fire up after a few hours?
Again thank you in advance!
With out testing everything I can't really give you a reason other than its got to be a weak power supply going somewhere. Could be a connection or like I said before a pilot generator going bad its hard to tell without using a multimeter and testing the millivolt at each link.
i have traced it down to the high limit switch, how can i clean them I jumper wire and starts ok. do the little heat caps pull out? to clean ?
Hello James, yes should pull out but should be replaced. Normally when those go out they are corroded and water has gotten inside of the actual switch.
Do you still have it? Need to see how it is installed
My kids put a tile on heater exhaust and now it won't turn on. What could be the problem? Any other suggestions?
Hello it might be the fusible link. The fusible link is a safety mechanism that when the inside compartment of the heater gets to Hot it blows and prevents power getting to the heater to turn it on or let it ignite a flame.
@@Poolelementary Thanks for the suggestion! I just checked the fusible link out. It's working perfectly. Any other thoughts?
Not at the moment I was hoping it was the fusible link because that's an easy fix but now it could be just about anything. If I think of something I missed I will get back to you.
@@Poolelementary Thanks for the response!
Hi I'm getting a fl4 code on mine. I put in a new ignitor but still get fl4. Any idea why
The igniter should of did the job. I can't think of why it would be still giving an error code unless there is a reset switch.
Noticed you did not mention the fusible link in this video. I am trying to physically locate it on a Jandy LXi heater. Any advice to locate it? thx
Good catch Russell we have these fusible links go out all the time in the hot summer months.should of had it in the video! Anyways if you go to Amazon and search Zodiac R0012200 it should come up and I think there's one on there for 7 bucks or so. Thanks for watching and good luck with your pool project. Pool elementary
Thanks. I bought a replacement but I don't where the fusible link is on an LXi heater. Where is it located?
Should be screwed to the inside panel on the left side about half way up. When you get your part you will have no problem finding it. Easy fix two screws, two wire connections and your done!
In the LXi I do see the 240C. But where is the 149C located on an LXi? Thanks
Hi Russell. I only have 1 or 2 of those specific heaters in my neck of the woods and have only replaced the one in the front main area of the heater so not certain where the other one goes or if there is two on that heater. Sorry
Helping my friend troubleshoot his heater. Only turning on when dial is set to max temp. Turn is just slightly back to cold and it shuts off. Any suggestions?
Got a similar problem. Did you figure it out? Replace the thermostat?
I have a question, my jandy lite 2 LPG is going on and off, do you know why?? Can you please help me ?
Did you fix it yet
My pilot light won’t go on 😢what could be the issue?
Hello. I have something similar like this. Is completely dead. This need power supply. I see on instruction is no electric. Now i am confused
The pilot light creates the power to run the heater. It only needs milivolts to operate.
Checked all you said to and heater will still not run. What should I get for a reading on my thermopile when pilot light is lit? Im thinking thats the issue. There is also a red blinking light on the black box behind the gas valve when pilot is lit and gas valve is in on postion. Any suggestions?
I'm having same problem, checked on/off switch and pressure switch, still not lighting. also, have that blinking light on black box
The Tp terminal and the TH/TP terminal should have 500MV. The blinking light should mean that your pilot generator is making power to turn your gas valve on. these older heaters are stubborn sometimes. Have you checked your fusible link to see if it has power on both sides of it?
Pilot light won't stay on my old Jandy LRZ...it was serviced
last Spring
If the pilot light turns off as soon as you release the gas valve I always start at the pilot generator after making sure all wires have good connection meaning cleaning them with small wire brush.
make sure to wait about a minute holding pilot lighting before turning to on
@@stephkirwin1898 yeah. Tried 3 times holding it for 3-4 mins...no joy
@@carlleblanc1660 Check to make sure the pilot measures 500MV with the heater switch off, a little less may be ok
what to do if your heater starts, but doesn't stay on after a while (a couple hours)?
Can you come and fix my heater?
Too muuch technology, wish I never ever got a house with a pool, it's basically a full time job just fixing pool problems, hate it
Your not alone. I hear this quite often with new home owners that inherited a pool with their purchase. I myself feel your pain as I still get frustrated with pools that are not kept simple and are over done with technology. The good news is your fixing things yourself and that is the best teacher of your pool and it will save you money in the long run. Good luck TrollGubbe