this. and i was thinking of a small arc track attached to bed where an external t-pin (or a bolt head) on the piston can rotate through. it will hold the piston at a constant distance from the bed.
I like your plan. There is one extra degree of freedom in that joint at the back pillow block. The sleeve/plain bearing would remove that extra degree of freedom.
@@HalfassKustoms The fix for the side to side play is to make your angle iron side pieces a little longer with about 6" below the pivot point and just use a large nylon washer ( like a 3" around ) and bolt it directly through the box and the side rail as your pivot and make it fairly tight to take up any slack then add another nylon slide to the bottom of the side rail that will rub on the side of the box to take out any side to side play. That way you will not need any bearings for this pivot point at all. If you still don't understand I could send you a drawing.
🗿💨 it's been one heck of a ride watching you build this roadster. When i think of the camera set ups along with the work, and add the editing,, Wow. Appreciate you doing what you do 👍💯 thanks for sharing Brent. Looking Sweet
Get rid of the angle iron. Replace it with tubing utilizing Bushings at each end, it would eliminate the twisting. Mixing angle and tubing looks extremely Rube Goldberg.
Hello! Lucas from Sweden here! Thanks for all you share! Idea: In the left front corner of the "flatbed" you put a small hydraulic piston/cylinder which is attached to the roof! 1. Raises the roof 2-3 inches what is needed! 2. You then turn the roof in over the flatbed manually 3 Then releases the pressure in the Hydralike and the roof slowly descends into Position on the "flatbed" And vice versa when you want to use the roof as protection!
Hi Brent, there’s an easy way to fix il where is hinge and fixed at the bed extended Matt so it goes past the hinge about 6 inches and that will stop any side side movement you will need some kind of stainless steel plate so it doesn’t scratch anything Jeff from England
Brent if you box in the ends of your main legs that you made. than drill through the end . the bolt won't let the leg wobble like the pieces you are trying to use (keep it simple).
Brent, you are my favorite engineermechanicbuilderpainterteacher etc. on TH-cam. Watching you work through a complex new design is worth the price of admission. Man, I love this truck, and I have absolute faith you'll make this work. I wish I could give you a design suggestion like others have, but I was not blessed with the same gift to see those engineering solutions that you do. Very amazing to me. Best wishes from Ohio.
Brent after you put the wire across the top think about stretching fleece across it and saturate the fleece with fiberglass liquid to make your cover. I'm going to be doing that on a MGB project to make a hard top that has the look of a fabric top
I always think back to the Old Shop and was amazed what you were doing there, BUT now I look around the shop when you pan around and think that through a very sad event this shop rose from the ashes. Very thankful I found your channel way back then. Like, share and find a friend to tell. Pacific Northwest guy
@@CSmith-oz4wp same here when I saw him make a 50 dodge four door chop look good he had my respect Brent's made some of the coolest cars from nothing he's the quests bad chad bad brent hahahahahaha I'd love to see a customizing competition between the two east vs west that'd be cool as fugg they're both good but I find Brent's cars turn out nicer looking the 37 pontiac the buick with the green flame job so cool to have these customizers in canada and many more so many good Canadian channels
@@darrenbrisson4336 I concur, but those two boys are different. Chad does his thing with a grinder, zip cut and a welder and still makes some pretty cool stuff. The new guys Nate and Doug help expand his comfort zone. Where as Brent has more knowledge on A LOT OF STUFF, mechanics, electrical and even upholstery. I enjoy both and I learn so much every time I watch either one. But I LOVE that old Buick ❤️.
Hello Brent, have an idea for side to side wobble, at the bottom of the main angles, use two half moon plates with a slot. one plate fast to the angle and the other fast to the bed side. Maybe? Anyway I am sure you will figure it out. Truck is looking mighty Nice. 👌 Take care 👍
Whatever you do, whatever you build, you always come up with a solution Brent. You are the man Mate when it comes to making things work. Love ya work Mate. Billy J..... Queensland, Australia.
You're doing an amazing job with the truck and I think I've come up with a lot to stabilize the cover, make some 3x3" arched gussets to put into the joints of each corner.
Brother you're a motorhead. Your camera work is fine. Most people have a "diginerd" filming. I love your channel and DD Speed shop because it's honest and there is an adorable sweet, wonderful strong woman backing you both. Monty from Roanoke Va.
Hey Brent just a thought here you Mentioned that your not planning on the bed being water tight. However with the sloped edges and the bed cover I think you might want to put some drain channels under the top where the cover sets so water will drain out the back. otherwise with fender slope and cover slope your gonna have a funnel. And as cool as it might be i don't think you want a swimming pool in the back :D. also the gutters might help with the tilting cover alignment.
Why not use 4 bearing on each angle iron. Two on eather end. Have it so the hinge is a pipe with an inner and outer bearing. Riding on, say, a 3-inch bolt . The bearing would be inside a piece of pipe welded to the angle iron. The pillow blocks roll from side to side while the regular bearing only wants to roll in only one direction with no sideways movement. Think about a boom on a loader. It's has bushings, but instead of bushings, use two bearings. This truck is just too cool. Haven't missed a episode.
Nice work on the tonneau cover. It's down to the fine details now. Look forward to seeing the cover go on. Pablo's all excited to get going!! Look forward to more. Be safe and stay well.
I think I saw someone somewhere use a fleece blanket over a surface and then use fiberglass epoxy spread all over it as a cover, wonder if that'll work for a bed cover
Hi Brent, to still have the pivot and reduce the twist why not use a piece of round tube and 3d print a plain bush to fit tight in the tube and on the centre shaft (use a bolt), just an idea
Brent a quick solution is to remove the bearings from the pillow blocks and weld the outer race to the arms. Another idea is make two small brackets to hold the bearings and run the bolt thru the brackets and bearing, kinda like a double shear set up.
should run the tunneau cover support all the way to the front of the box so you can add a couple triangle stabalizers in the front corners to keep the frame square.
A amazing video Brent. You can see your fabrication skills are real. You can see things and you’re a master at putting your ideas into all you build. Thank you sir. 💯💕👊👍
Brent, why don't you turn the "bullet" center caps on the Lathe? You can make the base to bolt the "bullet" onto the center of the rim. If you want to cast it, make one in the shape you want and cast the rest.
If you put a plate with a radial slot attached to the arms and studs with disc heads on the bed wall each arm would have two points of contact and would prevent them from moving side to side
Excellent video Brent :) take lots planning, shaping, making and installing plus testing too Lol ! You get right and takes time too also no rush get done Lol ! Pablo wants eat then sleep 💤 😴 I bet Lol!
hi brent i was thinking of up n over garage door track and rubber rollers for the flex part put two more air rams in as they go in and out as needed😊✌👍🤓
Hey Brett, take and make an x-brace on either side. Do the same type of system you have now for the hinges, but have them come from the front to the back, so that both braces form an "X". That should take care of the stability issues.
Hey Brent!. Just an idea for you toneu cover topping. You can get 4x8 sheets (in the US...not sure about up north) of a thin fiberglass paneling that's used for walls and backsplash in kitchens, usually Comercial. It's very light, strong and easy to work with. You could pie cut it to form it and glass the seams as well as bond it to the supports. Check your builders supply. It usually comes in smooth and pebble finish
Hi Brent. U need to connect the top of the left hand angle bar to the bottom of the right hand angle bar, and vice versa. Like a X-member. Or u can weld a 10 inch wide bar between the two angle bars. I think that will fix the wobble. Best wishes from Sweden 🥰
And it's Fred from Brisban here, No not the one over your way, The one in Aus. I like wot you do, I like how you explain things. Love watching you work
Hey Brent make the bars longer at the back mounting point for more stability. That way when raised up it will rest against the bed on both sides. Put some polymer where it would rub . Just a suggestion. Love your videos
Maybe a sliding shaft setup like a steeing shaft has. I believe supporting it from both sides will also reduce the sway as well. On another note, gussetting the Cover might also help. Great seeing the progress as well!
Oh yeah, by the way good video Brent. That's something I might try with my elcamino! Bought it in 1985. The car was for sale I couldn't catch him in stop and go traffic. My wife got out of our car, 56 chevy and run down the road to the next stop sigh, so we com😊
Hi, Brent, i like a Lot the work you make, I'm a handyman too , but not at your level... I think maybe you should weld a bar on top between this boths "arms" that you cut with the láser bed, a cross bar , and reinforce the angles. Best whishes to you and your wife, from Chaco, a litle state of Argentina.
This was a great video. I really like that you show the entire creative process. I’d try to tie the angle brackets you made together, basically the same point near the strut. But rather than bracing to the top as you tried, run the brace straight across to the same point on the other side. That distance should remain constant throughout the range of motion. . I wish I could upload a sketch.
You should move the strut from the outside pivot rod to the interior rib. This will push to the outside and help with stability and still open like you want. Hope it helps.
Weld some bent tube inside the bedsides between the frame rails of the cap so you don’t have the sway, you can also grease them when need be…..just a thought 👍🏻
I'm 45 minutes in so maybe you'll still come to this conclusion before the end, but both problems (keeping the front corner sliding point captured until full closure and keeping the main angles from wobbling) would be solved with window tracks. My experience is with '64 Impala door and quarter panel windows. The windows have nylon wheels that ride in c-channel tracks that capture the wheels. The tracks for the quarter windows on a '64 sport coupe have some interesting curves that might work for you. If the right shape of tracks are mounted to the truck box and the nylon wheels are mounted to the top frame, all the problems with side-to-side motion and could be solved. Keep up the good work!
Those rail and latch fittings at the front are very sweet creations. Precision in a way. I'm sorry there is nothing comes to mind that I can offer as a fix. All ideas, to even consider for th lateral and rotational control in the hinging mechanism encounter a failure. It's a leverage that ends up flimsy or very hard wearing. We all may have partial ideas but the system is a matter of fine tuning. So far so good though. Reposition the gas struts completely? Add a torque tube? It's your baby Brent................😄
Hi! Bearings might be a bit overkill IMHO. I suggest some lathe made bosses zapped to the angle. Should work at least same than double bearings with cleaner look.
Brent: perhaps a couple of nylon disks sandwiched between the little pillow block bearings and the body of the truck bed would provide additional stability to the main support arms. Dan in Denver
Brent, regarding casting your center caps, aluminum has a 3-8% shrinkage factor depending on the alloy. This means you will need to over size your mold to allow the final piece to shrink down to the final size (and why your window trim was too small) It will take some trial and error to get the final product the correct size.
What you need is something like an anti-roll bar... curved to match the top profile (and space over your roof) but then a gentle roll into 90 degrees and running parallel to the arms... in effect a giant horseshoe or U bolt to take out the twisting.
Awesome job so far. I was thinking that using black hard rubber bungee cords might stiffen it up. Having equal strength. You could place two on each side, spread apart. This will make up that inch or so extra movement you mentioned. Wouldn't hurt to try. And if you already had the bungees, it wouldn't cost you anything. Good luck. And once again , GREAT JOB !
Make a 4” x 1/2” spacer for the pivot point and extend the arm to cover the spacer . Nylon or something similar would reduce wear. Hope this helps 👍 good luck
That's what I was thinking of welding the regular tracks from a window assembly. Like you did on the hood. Try to use it as a guide, when opening and closeing.😮
My buddy does tilt forward hood kits. he uses round bar for the track system, I had the prototype on my 66 f100, it worked very well. just a thought, little rubber roller wheel. my truck still retains the original latch also. Cheers! (I should have watched the last part of the video,) Great job so far!
I use to do so some of what you do, mostly body work. My dad had a used car lot and he wanted me to fix body work with worked for me. That is until a 76 Malibu came in, I feel in love with it but I fixed it then my payment was the car. I still smile when I think about it.
I hate being an armchair quarterback, but it looks like you could tie the two angle-iron bars together at the top with a flat bar. It looks like that would still clear the top and give enough triangulation to keep the two bars from pivoting at the top. If they don't pivot at the top, they won't pivot at the bottom. Just a thought. Love how you show us your thought processes - wins and losses.
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That roadster just keeps rising to the next level. Nice work!
Those pillow blocks have spherical bearings. Fit a pair that have a plain bearing in them.
this.
and i was thinking of a small arc track attached to bed where an external t-pin (or a bolt head) on the piston can rotate through. it will hold the piston at a constant distance from the bed.
I like your plan. There is one extra degree of freedom in that joint at the back pillow block. The sleeve/plain bearing would remove that extra degree of freedom.
can you elaborate on this and what problem it addresses?
Install Garage door track and mount on inside of bed then a few rollers attached to cover frame on each side.
Haha that's way smarter than what I did.
@@HalfassKustomsBrent....use plain bearings instead of spherical
@@HalfassKustoms The fix for the side to side play is to make your angle iron side pieces a little longer with about 6" below the pivot point and just use a large nylon washer ( like a 3" around ) and bolt it directly through the box and the side rail as your pivot and make it fairly tight to take up any slack then add another nylon slide to the bottom of the side rail that will rub on the side of the box to take out any side to side play. That way you will not need any bearings for this pivot point at all. If you still don't understand I could send you a drawing.
🗿💨 it's been one heck of a ride watching you build this roadster. When i think of the camera set ups along with the work, and add the editing,, Wow. Appreciate you doing what you do 👍💯 thanks for sharing Brent. Looking Sweet
And he has a regular job too. This is all on his free time. He's an animal! 😁✌
Get rid of the angle iron. Replace it with tubing utilizing Bushings at each end, it would eliminate the twisting. Mixing angle and tubing looks extremely Rube Goldberg.
Your patience is incredible and how you manage to find a solution without losing your mind a hug from an Italian who lives in Brazil my friend 😅😅
Brent, it's really coming together well! A custom extravaganza!
Brent this is going to be your best build ever. Take your time now. Most of all “ Show it off”. You deserve it. Best wishes to you and Esther.
Hello! Lucas from Sweden here! Thanks for all you share! Idea: In the left front corner of the "flatbed" you put a small hydraulic piston/cylinder which is attached to the roof! 1. Raises the roof 2-3 inches what is needed! 2. You then turn the roof in over the flatbed manually 3 Then releases the pressure in the Hydralike and the roof slowly descends into Position on the "flatbed" And vice versa when you want to use the roof as protection!
Hi Brent, there’s an easy way to fix il where is hinge and fixed at the bed extended Matt so it goes past the hinge about 6 inches and that will stop any side side movement you will need some kind of stainless steel plate so it doesn’t scratch anything Jeff from England
Was thinking the same thing and a Teflon piece would make it slide easy and not scratch
Remove the pillow blocks and put a 1”c11/2” block (welded to the arm) with a snug bushing on each side and eliminate any side travel (wobble)
Have you thought about just adding a large washer to the inside of your pillow blocks, to stop lateral movement vs doubling the blocks?
No problem seeing the new clock on the wall
Brent if you box in the ends of your main legs that you made. than drill through the end . the bolt won't let the leg wobble like the pieces you are trying to use (keep it simple).
Brent, you are my favorite engineermechanicbuilderpainterteacher etc. on TH-cam. Watching you work through a complex new design is worth the price of admission. Man, I love this truck, and I have absolute faith you'll make this work. I wish I could give you a design suggestion like others have, but I was not blessed with the same gift to see those engineering solutions that you do. Very amazing to me. Best wishes from Ohio.
You could add a battery closet light for a dome light in your top.
Put your donkey logo on the hubs!
Brent after you put the wire across the top think about stretching fleece across it and saturate the fleece with fiberglass liquid to make your cover. I'm going to be doing that on a MGB project to make a hard top that has the look of a fabric top
28:45 I see that new clock on the wall ... now you'll always know when you're supposed to be hungry ...
Early in life I learned not to bet against the house...to which,in Brent's house,he always ends up with a solution. Keep on trucking, Brent 😎👍
It's always Nice to see yours videos...!!!
Especially when he's customizing
I always think back to the Old Shop and was amazed what you were doing there, BUT now I look around the shop when you pan around and think that through a very sad event this shop rose from the ashes. Very thankful I found your channel way back then.
Like, share and find a friend to tell.
Pacific Northwest guy
@@CSmith-oz4wp same here when I saw him make a 50 dodge four door chop look good he had my respect Brent's made some of the coolest cars from nothing he's the quests bad chad bad brent hahahahahaha I'd love to see a customizing competition between the two east vs west that'd be cool as fugg they're both good but I find Brent's cars turn out nicer looking the 37 pontiac the buick with the green flame job so cool to have these customizers in canada and many more so many good Canadian channels
@@darrenbrisson4336 I concur, but those two boys are different. Chad does his thing with a grinder, zip cut and a welder and still makes some pretty cool stuff. The new guys Nate and Doug help expand his comfort zone. Where as Brent has more knowledge on A LOT OF STUFF, mechanics, electrical and even upholstery. I enjoy both and I learn so much every time I watch either one. But I LOVE that old Buick ❤️.
Hello Brent, have an idea for side to side wobble, at the bottom of the main angles, use two half moon plates with a slot. one plate fast to the angle and the other fast to the bed side. Maybe? Anyway I am sure you will figure it out. Truck is looking mighty Nice. 👌 Take care 👍
Whatever you do, whatever you build, you always come up with a solution Brent. You are the man Mate when it comes to making things work. Love ya work Mate. Billy J..... Queensland, Australia.
You're doing an amazing job with the truck and I think I've come up with a lot to stabilize the cover, make some 3x3" arched gussets to put into the joints of each corner.
The beauty of this channel is the creative process of visualize, experiment and refine. You will have your “Eureka“ moment.☮️
Hello Brent cant wait to see the finnished produckt rollin down the road .looking good so far 👌
Hi My Dear Friend Very Very Great Job ❤❤❤❤❤
I learned the hard way that the best way to bend conduit is to wrap it around a barrel for the large curves and wheel rims for smaller curves.
Brother you're a motorhead. Your camera work is fine. Most people have a "diginerd" filming. I love your channel and DD Speed shop because it's honest and there is an adorable sweet, wonderful strong woman backing you both. Monty from Roanoke Va.
Right on brent thanks man been waiting for more that top turned out so good it looks factory
Hey Brent just a thought here you Mentioned that your not planning on the bed being water tight. However with the sloped edges and the bed cover I think you might want to put some drain channels under the top where the cover sets so water will drain out the back. otherwise with fender slope and cover slope your gonna have a funnel. And as cool as it might be i don't think you want a swimming pool in the back :D. also the gutters might help with the tilting cover alignment.
... and he mentioned keeping luggage under the cover ... I'm sure Esther won't be happy about soggy clothes ..
Why not use 4 bearing on each angle iron. Two on eather end. Have it so the hinge is a pipe with an inner and outer bearing. Riding on, say, a 3-inch bolt . The bearing would be inside a piece of pipe welded to the angle iron. The pillow blocks roll from side to side while the regular bearing only wants to roll in only one direction with no sideways movement. Think about a boom on a loader. It's has bushings, but instead of bushings, use two bearings. This truck is just too cool. Haven't missed a episode.
For the front end of the tonneau cover you could have maybe used metal sliding drawer tracks from the lumber yard.
Incredible engineering
Nice work on the tonneau cover. It's down to the fine details now. Look forward to seeing the cover go on. Pablo's all excited to get going!! Look forward to more. Be safe and stay well.
I think I saw someone somewhere use a fleece blanket over a surface and then use fiberglass epoxy spread all over it as a cover, wonder if that'll work for a bed cover
Hi Brent, to still have the pivot and reduce the twist why not use a piece of round tube and 3d print a plain bush to fit tight in the tube and on the centre shaft (use a bolt), just an idea
Hey Brent what about two springs one on each side where we're going to put the pipe.
Happy Wednesday Canada 🇨🇦 😊🛻🐕🦺🦮👍👍👍👍✌️
Brent a quick solution is to remove the bearings from the pillow blocks and weld the outer race to the arms. Another idea is make two small brackets to hold the bearings and run the bolt thru the brackets and bearing, kinda like a double shear set up.
Comming right along nice latch in front,another walk in the day an life of Brett building, lol.lol
should run the tunneau cover support all the way to the front of the box so you can add a couple triangle stabalizers in the front corners to keep the frame square.
Nice job…you always win at the end..keep up the awesome work🎉😊🎉
You make us CANADIANS so proud, take care
I think if you support the front in a track system of some kind, I don’t think it’ll move from side to side as much maybe?
A amazing video Brent. You can see your fabrication skills are real. You can see things and you’re a master at putting your ideas into all you build. Thank you sir. 💯💕👊👍
Brent, why don't you turn the "bullet" center caps on the Lathe?
You can make the base to bolt the "bullet" onto the center of the rim. If you want to cast it, make one in the shape you want and cast the rest.
I enjoy seeing problem solvers ! Thks for keeping our brain juices flowing!
If you put a plate with a radial slot attached to the arms and studs with disc heads on the bed wall each arm would have two points of contact and would prevent them from moving side to side
First time I've seen that the roof goes into the box.. very cool and practical.
If you mounted the struts to the inner ribs you may get some triangulation to keep it from wobbling
Looking good, one of your best work!
Brent I am sure you will figure out something that works and we will all enjoy watching you do it!
Love the bearings and track you landed on, even holds cover half way open. Nice!
Don’t forget to allow for shrinkage when cooling of cast materials.
It's So Freaking KOOL, ney sayers stay back, let me see you plan something out like this, Thumbs Up Brent!!!...
Excellent video Brent :) take lots planning, shaping, making and installing plus testing too Lol ! You get right and takes time too also no rush get done Lol ! Pablo wants eat then sleep 💤 😴 I bet Lol!
I love the music you play in your backgrounds especially some of that. Sounds like some music. Sounds like Joe Walsh and James game.
hi brent i was thinking of up n over garage door track and rubber rollers for the flex part put two more air rams in as they go in and out as needed😊✌👍🤓
Print and bodywork a bullet then use it as a mold to cast wheel centers. Just a thought. Love your channel and what you do
Hey Brett, take and make an x-brace on either side. Do the same type of system you have now for the hinges, but have them come from the front to the back, so that both braces form an "X". That should take care of the stability issues.
Nice, love the fancy hinge up Tonneau cover.
The time lapse of you bending that conduit looks a Samurai sword fighter!
Hey Brent!. Just an idea for you toneu cover topping. You can get 4x8 sheets (in the US...not sure about up north) of a thin fiberglass paneling that's used for walls and backsplash in kitchens, usually Comercial. It's very light, strong and easy to work with. You could pie cut it to form it and glass the seams as well as bond it to the supports. Check your builders supply. It usually comes in smooth and pebble finish
Hi Brent. U need to connect the top of the left hand angle bar to the bottom of the right hand angle bar, and vice versa. Like a X-member. Or u can weld a 10 inch wide bar between the two angle bars. I think that will fix the wobble. Best wishes from Sweden 🥰
My thought also. Connect the angle iron arms together. They’re always parallel.
@@nathanclouse there is a roof in the way
@@JustTex There is still space between the roof and the tonneau...
@@lassenorr435 sure doesn't look like much space 32:52
@@JustTex you’d have to shape the bracing around the roof. They would be arched over it.
And it's Fred from Brisban here, No not the one over your way, The one in Aus. I like wot you do, I like how you explain things. Love watching you work
Minty !
Thank You for sharing your video, and letting us hang out .
Later ...
Hey Brent make the bars longer at the back mounting point for more stability. That way when raised up it will rest against the bed on both sides. Put some polymer where it would rub . Just a suggestion. Love your videos
Maybe a sliding shaft setup like a steeing shaft has. I believe supporting it from both sides will also reduce the sway as well. On another note, gussetting the Cover might
also help.
Great seeing the progress as well!
Oh yeah, by the way good video Brent. That's something I might try with my elcamino!
Bought it in 1985. The car was for sale I couldn't catch him in stop and go traffic. My wife got out of our car, 56 chevy and run down the road to the next stop sigh, so we com😊
Another video on the truck! Hell yes, these videos make me excited every time. Thanks for making them.
Hi, Brent, i like a Lot the work you make, I'm a handyman too , but not at your level... I think maybe you should weld a bar on top between this boths "arms" that you cut with the láser bed, a cross bar , and reinforce the angles. Best whishes to you and your wife, from Chaco, a litle state of Argentina.
I absolutely love how great my truck is starting to look! Keep up the great work Brent!
This was a great video. I really like that you show the entire creative process. I’d try to tie the angle brackets you made together, basically the same point near the strut. But rather than bracing to the top as you tried, run the brace straight across to the same point on the other side. That distance should remain constant throughout the range of motion. . I wish I could upload a sketch.
I really like your imagination, I.
Think it'll turn out excellent
You should move the strut from the outside pivot rod to the interior rib. This will push to the outside and help with stability and still open like you want. Hope it helps.
Weld some bent tube inside the bedsides between the frame rails of the cap so you don’t have the sway, you can also grease them when need be…..just a thought 👍🏻
Good progress today. At about 30:10 on for a few, my first thought was "the Brent pipe dance". Looked cool on fast forward.
I'm 45 minutes in so maybe you'll still come to this conclusion before the end, but both problems (keeping the front corner sliding point captured until full closure and keeping the main angles from wobbling) would be solved with window tracks. My experience is with '64 Impala door and quarter panel windows. The windows have nylon wheels that ride in c-channel tracks that capture the wheels. The tracks for the quarter windows on a '64 sport coupe have some interesting curves that might work for you. If the right shape of tracks are mounted to the truck box and the nylon wheels are mounted to the top frame, all the problems with side-to-side motion and could be solved. Keep up the good work!
Those rail and latch fittings at the front are very sweet creations. Precision in a way. I'm sorry there is nothing comes to mind that I can offer as a fix. All ideas, to even consider for th lateral and rotational control in the hinging mechanism encounter a failure. It's a leverage that ends up flimsy or very hard wearing. We all may have partial ideas but the system is a matter of fine tuning. So far so good though. Reposition the gas struts completely? Add a torque tube? It's your baby Brent................😄
the creative process continues.
Coming along nicely Brent Getting close
With all the rounds you've gone this project Brent--you are the heavyweight champion!😆
Hi! Bearings might be a bit overkill IMHO. I suggest some lathe made bosses zapped to the angle. Should work at least same than double bearings with cleaner look.
Brent: perhaps a couple of nylon disks sandwiched between the little pillow block bearings and the body of the truck bed would provide additional stability to the main support arms. Dan in Denver
Brent, regarding casting your center caps, aluminum has a 3-8% shrinkage factor depending on the alloy. This means you will need to over size your mold to allow the final piece to shrink down to the final size (and why your window trim was too small) It will take some trial and error to get the final product the correct size.
What you need is something like an anti-roll bar... curved to match the top profile (and space over your roof) but then a gentle roll into 90 degrees and running parallel to the arms... in effect a giant horseshoe or U bolt to take out the twisting.
To fix the racking, make piece of plate and weld between the tops of the rails. You could even arch it so it comes up close under the tonneau
If you go 100mm wide and 3mm thick, it will be rigid.
You could even cnc Halfass Customs into it
keep up hard work dont give up and you will beauty ride to your colllection of rods .DO STILL HAVE DAY TIME JOB ,AWESOME VIDEO
That cover articulates pretty nice.
Awesome job so far. I was thinking that using black hard rubber bungee cords might stiffen it up. Having equal strength. You could place two on each side, spread apart. This will make up that inch or so extra movement you mentioned. Wouldn't hurt to try. And if you already had the bungees, it wouldn't cost you anything. Good luck. And once again , GREAT JOB !
Make a 4” x 1/2” spacer for the pivot point and extend the arm to cover the spacer . Nylon or something similar would reduce wear. Hope this helps 👍 good luck
That's what I was thinking of welding the regular tracks from a window assembly. Like you did on the hood. Try to use it as a guide, when opening and closeing.😮
My buddy does tilt forward hood kits. he uses round bar for the track system, I had the prototype on my 66 f100, it worked very well. just a thought, little rubber roller wheel. my truck still retains the original latch also. Cheers! (I should have watched the last part of the video,) Great job so far!
Long or short, your videos are some of the most interesting out here in internetland
Brent how about some diagonal cross bracing. Might help stop the wobble. Anyway a fantastic build I'm sure with your skills you will crack it
I use to do so some of what you do, mostly body work. My dad had a used car lot and he wanted me to fix body work with worked for me. That is until a 76 Malibu came in, I feel in love with it but I fixed it then my payment was the car. I still smile when I think about it.
For the side-to-side movement, would a flat bar between the two angle irons, just under the round supports.
Beautiful build!! You’re a master figuring things out. Love your videos.
Love the longer videos!!
I hate being an armchair quarterback, but it looks like you could tie the two angle-iron bars together at the top with a flat bar. It looks like that would still clear the top and give enough triangulation to keep the two bars from pivoting at the top. If they don't pivot at the top, they won't pivot at the bottom. Just a thought. Love how you show us your thought processes - wins and losses.
Thanks for another , Brother !