Searched for two hours to see how much oil should be flowing up through the pushrods and found your video. Thanks man... None of mine are flowing oil so deeper we go
interesting, with all the trouble people have with cam and lifters these days, very good that you did a thourough check before break in. I have a small block chevy about to fire, but after watching this I think I will pop the valve covers and confirm now, vs wiping a cam ect!
Yea. Lots of trash lifters out there. I decided to do this after reading on the Buick forum of a guy wiping a cam due to a bad lifter. Hope yours goes well. Cheers
Very Helpful.......I'm working on an Old Buick 225 cu. with the shaft style rockers ( non-adj.) and i was seriously going to measure out all the pushrods and/or replace by length needed, then saw your video and said - :forget it: - Run'm down and just go with it as stock. Only changes were, a mild cam and valve job and head shaved .020 and obviously new lifers. I'm a bit leery about the whole flat tappet, hydraulic break-In deal......Lot's of Videos on cam destruction.
Scott... you have good reason to be leary... It's a stressful event. I did cam breakin for the very first time last year on this engine and everything went well. If your combo has been run before and you just made those small changes, then you are already a little better off than I was... Everything on mine was new, so there were lots of different factors at play. Getting it started fast and running it is to 2k rpm quickly is important. I actually set my timing with just cranking the starter before she had any gas in her, and I feel like that helped rather than trying to adjust it on the fly while the engine is roaring. Check out my other videos, I believe I speak more about the breakin ... it will be listed after this video, for sure. Good luck.
Hey Folks, so that one lifter never panned out. Luckily there was one in stock locally and I didn't have to wait long. If you are in a bind and don't mind excessive oiling you can always take it apart and flip the metering plate (Flat disk right under pushrod seat) in it.... I found doing so makes it oil a lot. I think if you did that to all 16 you could have oil pressure issues though.. This lifter was strange though, In stock form it wouldn't oil at all, the replacement oiled like it should almost within seconds. Good luck with whatever issue you have that brought you here. Cheers!
I learned the hard way years ago: dissasemble/clean/inspect new hydraulic lifters [indoors]. Plungers are fit to something under 0.001" for clearance and any trash will haunt you. That, and oil bands vs lifter bores need verification - they must stay in the bore through all range of motion, or the build is going to be a lemon.
@@flinch622 when I spoke to some individuals about this on a forum, you'd be shocked how many just throw them in and run it. I guess I'm too anal to do that.... hell, I even looked down each pushrod to make sure it was clear lol
18:50 bad one looks tight going into the bore, you're having to press it down. Might get tighter and bind at temperature. Lifter quality sucks in 2021-2, it's scary.
I know of at least one guy in my car club who ruined an engine this year because of a bad lifter....it sucks considering how relatively inexpensive they are compared to the damage they do.
thank for your video, i attend to work on mine soon , very nice idea on the DIY tool for oiling the engine. just asking shoud id put the rocker arm and set the lash before testing the lifters.
@@JackofAllTrades1 i am testing the rocker, lifters and oil pump, as i changed the oil pump and the head gasket, just to make sure its works before assemble the engine, everything, my engine is still a stock Chevy 350 with old style rocker arm.
@ramtha Z28 if you make a drill fitting like I did then you'll know within a min or so if it's oiling. Hopefully you are not changing any lifters out because new lifters right now are crap... It's hard to find a good set.
@@JackofAllTrades1 the valve looks fine. This motor have never ran I’m in the process of building it. I planned on reusing the rockers they looked fine but after priming that one wouldn’t prime. Now it’s got all new rockers. I’m also getting almost 60psi on the drill while priming: hopefully I’ll have this thing in the boat soon.
I’m hearing more and more stories about folks having to go through multiple sets just to find enough good ones to run. Hopefully it’s not too painful for you.
@@Gmrtech2 the clatter is probably the time it takes for the hydraulic lifters to pump up with oil and take out the slack between them and the pushrods. If you have any oil pressure at all at idle then you are likely good. I think the standard is 10psi per 1k rpm though.
I'm building a 5.9 magnum and just replaced lifters and put new hs 1.7 rockers. when I prime it some rockers are getting tons of oil and some are getting considerably less oil. any idea what that could be?
Are the ones getting less oil just at the end of the line? What I mean is, the rockers are the last thing to get oiled before the oil comes back down into the pan, my rockers that are up against the firewall are the furthest from the oil pump so they will naturally have less oil than the ones that are the closest. Honestly if you are getting any oil to the top of them all then let it ride. The rockers are not like your bearings that need a certain psi to maintain their cushion. They just need a few consistent drops to keep lubricated.
@@JackofAllTrades1 thank you for the reply!! so the rockers getting less oil are random. driver side all the rear rockers are getting much more oil and passenger side there's only like 3 getting alot of oil. but looking at the springs they are all dripping a little oil. I'm gonna switch them around and see if it changes. I was thinking it was fine just wanted a 2nd opinion, didnt want to put it back in the truck and hear tapping lol and thanks again for the reply!! much appreciated!!
@@twistingripsnrippinlips1584 each one of your lifter bores and also lifters will all have slight (very slight) size differences. If you have a lifter that is not oiling very well then put it in a bore that is ... switch those lifters. It could just be that out of all 16 lifters, that one "bad" one is the smallest in diameter and it's in the largest lifter bore of the group... that would give it less pressure than a lifter/bore pair that had closer tolerances. Thats what I did, I moved them all around to help match them up.
Idk where else to ask this question. You seem like you know what you're doing obviously. I have a 92 crown vic. A rocker arm FELL OFF while driving, it continued to drive PERFECTLY besides the ticking sound. I put the rocker arm back into place and now the car wont start. Itll turn over and sputter for maybe a second or 2. Any ideas or tips would be much appreciated
So... all you did was reinstall the rocker arms? Did you change the timing at all? Most engines will run on 7 cylinders so even if you didn't reinstall that rocker arm it should start and run. Remember, an internal combustion engine needs spark, fuel, and compression to start.
I’m building a ls motor everything is brand new , I’m using 2126 johnson lifter and for some reason 1 rocker arm keeps getting loose after I tighten them and oil is coming out the push rod it’s only one rocker arm that’s doing it on cylinder 8 any idea what it can be ??
Johnson lifters are supposed to be some of the best out there. Have you ran this engine yet or are you just turning it over by hand and getting this outcome?
@@Dani-cr5pk are you past the cam break-in? I'm assuming these are hydraulic lifters... is it possible one is not pumping up and that pushrod is beating on the rocker? How long does it take to loosen after you tighten it?
@@JackofAllTrades1 cam is brand new barely breaking in I only turn the motor on for 10 min once and 10 mins after I tighten it up . Yes that’s what I was thinking is not charging up and about 5 min
How long have you cycled it? Some of mine took quite a whole before oil came up (2 to 3 min). Also, some engines only oil at certain degrees of camshaft rotation... make sure that's not yours or you may be rotating it to verify all of them oil.
@@kevinragsdale6256 I’m not familiar with this type of engine… are you sure that it oils through the pushrod? If it’s supposed to, the only thing you can check without much disassembly is to remove a rocker arm and pull the pushrod out and make sure there are no obstructions, both in the rod and the rocker arm oiling hole. The next place to check would be a lifter but you will need to remove the intake for that. I’d imagine with 15k miles of no oiling in those locations that there probably some noise and wear by now.
@@kevinragsdale6256 it sounds like the oil is getting through the lifters to each other which I guess solves half the mystery since its not all of them. You may have to do what I did in this video and pull the Intake and spin the oil pump and view the lifters without rods on them and see if they are all oiling and then go from there. You may be able to pull a bad lifter and take it apart and compare it to a known good lifter to see if it's the same. Believe it or not there are bad lifters out there and also ones that people have messed with and returned to the store and they get put back into stock.
Depends on the block... different manufacturers are different. Example, some dodges have the right bank pump up with the crank at 90 degrees and the left bank when the crank is at 180 (example). My Buick pumps up both sides at any crank angle.
@JackofAllTrades1 My engine is a 5.3 fuel flex on a gmc sierra 2012. After changing the lifters on my driver side I turned the truck on to adjust them and only a the first two and the last two are pumping oil, so naturally I'm worried, I'm searching for the answer and found this channel eich is awesome by the way thanks for the reply.
@Boxing Expert with a lot of lifters, I believe they take longer to pump up than most people like. It's hard to replicate the rpm load they are under even at idle. As you see with this video, I used a drill to turn my oil pump shaft, and even then, it took a couple of min. You may have to try the same thing.
Searched for two hours to see how much oil should be flowing up through the pushrods and found your video. Thanks man... None of mine are flowing oil so deeper we go
Good luck. May take almost 2 min of pumping to get it to the top that first time.
interesting, with all the trouble people have with cam and lifters these days, very good that you did a thourough check before break in. I have a small block chevy about to fire, but after watching this I think I will pop the valve covers and confirm now, vs wiping a cam ect!
Yea. Lots of trash lifters out there. I decided to do this after reading on the Buick forum of a guy wiping a cam due to a bad lifter. Hope yours goes well. Cheers
Very Helpful.......I'm working on an Old Buick 225 cu. with the shaft style rockers ( non-adj.) and i was seriously going to measure out all the pushrods and/or replace by length needed, then saw your video and said - :forget it: - Run'm down and just go with it as stock. Only changes were, a mild cam and valve job and head shaved .020 and obviously new lifers. I'm a bit leery about the whole flat tappet, hydraulic break-In deal......Lot's of Videos on cam destruction.
Scott... you have good reason to be leary... It's a stressful event. I did cam breakin for the very first time last year on this engine and everything went well. If your combo has been run before and you just made those small changes, then you are already a little better off than I was... Everything on mine was new, so there were lots of different factors at play. Getting it started fast and running it is to 2k rpm quickly is important. I actually set my timing with just cranking the starter before she had any gas in her, and I feel like that helped rather than trying to adjust it on the fly while the engine is roaring. Check out my other videos, I believe I speak more about the breakin ... it will be listed after this video, for sure. Good luck.
Hey Folks, so that one lifter never panned out. Luckily there was one in stock locally and I didn't have to wait long. If you are in a bind and don't mind excessive oiling you can always take it apart and flip the metering plate (Flat disk right under pushrod seat) in it.... I found doing so makes it oil a lot. I think if you did that to all 16 you could have oil pressure issues though.. This lifter was strange though, In stock form it wouldn't oil at all, the replacement oiled like it should almost within seconds. Good luck with whatever issue you have that brought you here. Cheers!
@@Gig-th3er for sure. Work out the kinks while everything is moving slow because even at idle these parts are moving super fast.
I learned the hard way years ago: dissasemble/clean/inspect new hydraulic lifters [indoors]. Plungers are fit to something under 0.001" for clearance and any trash will haunt you. That, and oil bands vs lifter bores need verification - they must stay in the bore through all range of motion, or the build is going to be a lemon.
@@flinch622 when I spoke to some individuals about this on a forum, you'd be shocked how many just throw them in and run it. I guess I'm too anal to do that.... hell, I even looked down each pushrod to make sure it was clear lol
one new lifter I took apart had 2 discs in it , So much for quality control ?
@@stabg289 wow... no kidding. And to think some guys just drop them in and run it without checking first.
18:50 bad one looks tight going into the bore, you're having to press it down. Might get tighter and bind at temperature. Lifter quality sucks in 2021-2, it's scary.
I know of at least one guy in my car club who ruined an engine this year because of a bad lifter....it sucks considering how relatively inexpensive they are compared to the damage they do.
@@JackofAllTrades1 Yep, Uncle Tony agrees: th-cam.com/video/ycb8Yy38DwU/w-d-xo.html
Even light lifter binding could prevent rotation, which would be the death of that lobe & lifter.
Luckily we are good with these lifters... all are rotating.
thank for your video, i attend to work on mine soon , very nice idea on the DIY tool for oiling the engine. just asking shoud id put the rocker arm and set the lash before testing the lifters.
If you are just testing the oiling you dont have to have the rockers on to see if the oil is getting to the top... up to you though. It won't hurt it.
@@JackofAllTrades1 i am testing the rocker, lifters and oil pump, as i changed the oil pump and the head gasket, just to make sure its works before assemble the engine, everything, my engine is still a stock Chevy 350 with old style rocker arm.
@ramtha Z28 if you make a drill fitting like I did then you'll know within a min or so if it's oiling. Hopefully you are not changing any lifters out because new lifters right now are crap... It's hard to find a good set.
@@JackofAllTrades1 thank you for your time.
@@ramthaLord np, good luck.
Bro I love the engine paint job!
Thanks...Buick Red!
I have the same issue with a 350 looks like I’ll probably need a new lifter as well.
I've heard from so many people that 1 or 2 are bad in their set of 16. Luckily you checked.
@@JackofAllTrades1
So after further investigation the culprit was the lifter and rocker was bad go figure 🤷♂️.
@@Matt82 you think maybe the lifter caused the rocker to fail? Possibly due to lack of lubrication? How does that valve stem look?
@@JackofAllTrades1 the valve looks fine. This motor have never ran I’m in the process of building it. I planned on reusing the rockers they looked fine but after priming that one wouldn’t prime. Now it’s got all new rockers. I’m also getting almost 60psi on the drill while priming: hopefully I’ll have this thing in the boat soon.
@@Matt82 60 is good... sounds like you averted a crisis down the road by doing your due dillagence now.
Having this problem with a 351 Cleveland except only 2 are good , Plenty of Oil pressure .Ill know tomorrow when the New lifters arrive ,
I’m hearing more and more stories about folks having to go through multiple sets just to find enough good ones to run. Hopefully it’s not too painful for you.
@@JackofAllTrades1 changed all of them , Seemed to be working .
@@stabg289 awesome 👌
@@JackofAllTrades1 Thank You .Your video Confirmed what I thought it might be .
Nice looking engine.
Thanks Kodiak!
I have a 360 dodge engine that clatters on cold start... to me sounds like pushrods are too short... engine also has low oil pressure
@@Gmrtech2 the clatter is probably the time it takes for the hydraulic lifters to pump up with oil and take out the slack between them and the pushrods. If you have any oil pressure at all at idle then you are likely good. I think the standard is 10psi per 1k rpm though.
Sure hope you didn't forget to put a galley plug in that block somewhere
Haha... it has all the plugs. This engine screams! Scares all the hellcats in the neighborhood. :)
I'm building a 5.9 magnum and just replaced lifters and put new hs 1.7 rockers. when I prime it some rockers are getting tons of oil and some are getting considerably less oil. any idea what that could be?
Are the ones getting less oil just at the end of the line? What I mean is, the rockers are the last thing to get oiled before the oil comes back down into the pan, my rockers that are up against the firewall are the furthest from the oil pump so they will naturally have less oil than the ones that are the closest. Honestly if you are getting any oil to the top of them all then let it ride. The rockers are not like your bearings that need a certain psi to maintain their cushion. They just need a few consistent drops to keep lubricated.
@@JackofAllTrades1 thank you for the reply!! so the rockers getting less oil are random. driver side all the rear rockers are getting much more oil and passenger side there's only like 3 getting alot of oil. but looking at the springs they are all dripping a little oil. I'm gonna switch them around and see if it changes. I was thinking it was fine just wanted a 2nd opinion, didnt want to put it back in the truck and hear tapping lol and thanks again for the reply!! much appreciated!!
@@twistingripsnrippinlips1584 each one of your lifter bores and also lifters will all have slight (very slight) size differences. If you have a lifter that is not oiling very well then put it in a bore that is ... switch those lifters. It could just be that out of all 16 lifters, that one "bad" one is the smallest in diameter and it's in the largest lifter bore of the group... that would give it less pressure than a lifter/bore pair that had closer tolerances. Thats what I did, I moved them all around to help match them up.
Idk where else to ask this question. You seem like you know what you're doing obviously. I have a 92 crown vic. A rocker arm FELL OFF while driving, it continued to drive PERFECTLY besides the ticking sound. I put the rocker arm back into place and now the car wont start. Itll turn over and sputter for maybe a second or 2. Any ideas or tips would be much appreciated
So... all you did was reinstall the rocker arms? Did you change the timing at all? Most engines will run on 7 cylinders so even if you didn't reinstall that rocker arm it should start and run. Remember, an internal combustion engine needs spark, fuel, and compression to start.
How do I go about changing the timing??? I'm really new to all this car stuff I'm only 20
@Raskal Ru can you get it to start and run by spraying carb cleaner down the throttle body? It should run for a few seconds.
I could swear that plug got sucked into the cylinder... good luck.
yes the second one
but it's not possible ;)
I’m building a ls motor everything is brand new , I’m using 2126 johnson lifter and for some reason 1 rocker arm keeps getting loose after I tighten them and oil is coming out the push rod it’s only one rocker arm that’s doing it on cylinder 8 any idea what it can be ??
Johnson lifters are supposed to be some of the best out there. Have you ran this engine yet or are you just turning it over by hand and getting this outcome?
@@JackofAllTrades1 I’m just starting it up fresh motor nd I’m getting this outcome ? Yes ik johnson lifters are really good
I was thinking maybe the lifter is bad I mean it can happen
@@Dani-cr5pk are you past the cam break-in? I'm assuming these are hydraulic lifters... is it possible one is not pumping up and that pushrod is beating on the rocker? How long does it take to loosen after you tighten it?
@@JackofAllTrades1 cam is brand new barely breaking in I only turn the motor on for 10 min once and 10 mins after I tighten it up . Yes that’s what I was thinking is not charging up and about 5 min
I have a ford 300 i6 that is not getting oil at like 4 rockers for some reason
How long have you cycled it? Some of mine took quite a whole before oil came up (2 to 3 min). Also, some engines only oil at certain degrees of camshaft rotation... make sure that's not yours or you may be rotating it to verify all of them oil.
@@JackofAllTrades1 the engine has been ran for about 15k miles, and it gets no oil in those spots even while running
@@kevinragsdale6256 I’m not familiar with this type of engine… are you sure that it oils through the pushrod? If it’s supposed to, the only thing you can check without much disassembly is to remove a rocker arm and pull the pushrod out and make sure there are no obstructions, both in the rod and the rocker arm oiling hole. The next place to check would be a lifter but you will need to remove the intake for that. I’d imagine with 15k miles of no oiling in those locations that there probably some noise and wear by now.
@@JackofAllTrades1 its supposed to be getting the oil, the others ones are
@@kevinragsdale6256 it sounds like the oil is getting through the lifters to each other which I guess solves half the mystery since its not all of them. You may have to do what I did in this video and pull the Intake and spin the oil pump and view the lifters without rods on them and see if they are all oiling and then go from there. You may be able to pull a bad lifter and take it apart and compare it to a known good lifter to see if it's the same. Believe it or not there are bad lifters out there and also ones that people have messed with and returned to the store and they get put back into stock.
Should all the lifters pump out oil?
Depends on the block... different manufacturers are different. Example, some dodges have the right bank pump up with the crank at 90 degrees and the left bank when the crank is at 180 (example). My Buick pumps up both sides at any crank angle.
@JackofAllTrades1
My engine is a 5.3 fuel flex on a gmc sierra 2012. After changing the lifters on my driver side I turned the truck on to adjust them and only a the first two and the last two are pumping oil, so naturally I'm worried, I'm searching for the answer and found this channel eich is awesome by the way thanks for the reply.
@Boxing Expert with a lot of lifters, I believe they take longer to pump up than most people like. It's hard to replicate the rpm load they are under even at idle. As you see with this video, I used a drill to turn my oil pump shaft, and even then, it took a couple of min. You may have to try the same thing.