If it was me, I would keep the truck 6 volt. Make sure your wire/cable gauge is large enough to carry the needed current. It sounded like the starter was turning fast enough for starting. Something else was preventing the engine from starting. A Diesel engine might require faster spinning to generate heat but If everything is set up properly, a gasoline engine should startup easily. Make sure you understand the theory of operation for old carburetors. There should be a choke handle in the cab that you would pull out when cold starting an engine. It reduces the air in the fuel/air mixture so that it is richer for cold starting. When the engine is running reliably push the choke in to restore the normal mixture. Check the accelerator pump to see if it is working. Fuel - air - spark. If these are all set up properly your engine should run well. You might search for a shop manual for your truck. I recommend that you do some TH-cam research. One channel I follow is: Coldwarmotors. Scott has many old cars and he and his friends have gotten many old cars running. There are many others from people who understand old engines that have quirks that modern engines don’t have so much. Best wishes!
Love watching vids like this! Fyi, there is already an oil filter on your truck ... well at least the canister for the filter is on your truck lol ... sometimes there's no filter in there. It's the black container on the driver's side near the firewall with the T handle on top. Filters are readily available.
You are doing just fine / steady as she goes / al least you are doing it right by changing the oil a few times back to back to get all the crap out of the block / not sure but i think there is a reusable oil filter for that type of filter container or there may be a use once and throw away / just keep chipping away till it's done and done right / and then she will run like a clock / and then you will have a bad ass truck that every truck guy wished they had / good things in life take time and work and most of all lot's of FAITH with out faith your screwed
I couldn't really see when you were trying to start it each time but if the engine is cold, just give it some choke even if your weather is warm out. Those old engines can be cold blooded and just need to pull the manual choke out and should fire tight up.
Kudos! You are making progress. On the floor inside the truck, I would suggest use a wire brush on a power drill to remove the loose rust, then get some POR-15 from Eastwood Co. to treat the metal surface. It will convert the rust to a polymer. It doesn't take too long to cure. Then use some brush-on bed liner from WalMart to treat the surface for added protection. It will also help deaden sound some. For a demo on doing this, check Weird Beard on TH-cam, who is working on a '73 Plymouth Fury and used some of these products to treat the floor and roof. If you want to keep the voltage regulator the old type with contacts and thermal coils, there are units which were made for 12VDC systems. There are solid state voltage regulators, but, it sort of seems unnecessary to go that route. The gauges in the dash were designed to operate from the 6VDC system. There are pulsed regulators that will allow them to work correctly on 12VDC and the regulator drops the voltage down to about 5VDC for the gauges. That way you won't have to change any gauges. The same is true for a fuel tank float/sending unit. The pulsed voltage regulator will allow the sending unit to work the fuel gauge correctly too.
Great Video...Great Truck!!!
If it was me, I would keep the truck 6 volt. Make sure your wire/cable gauge is large enough to carry the needed current. It sounded like the starter was turning fast enough for starting. Something else was preventing the engine from starting. A Diesel engine might require faster spinning to generate heat but If everything is set up properly, a gasoline engine should startup easily.
Make sure you understand the theory of operation for old carburetors. There should be a choke handle in the cab that you would pull out when cold starting an engine. It reduces the air in the fuel/air mixture so that it is richer for cold starting. When the engine is running reliably push the choke in to restore the normal mixture. Check the accelerator pump to see if it is working.
Fuel - air - spark. If these are all set up properly your engine should run well. You might search for a shop manual for your truck.
I recommend that you do some TH-cam research. One channel I follow is: Coldwarmotors. Scott has many old cars and he and his friends have gotten many old cars running. There are many others from people who understand old engines that have quirks that modern engines don’t have so much. Best wishes!
No chrome is definately a plus
Paint that thing
Love watching vids like this! Fyi, there is already an oil filter on your truck ... well at least the canister for the filter is on your truck lol ... sometimes there's no filter in there. It's the black container on the driver's side near the firewall with the T handle on top. Filters are readily available.
You are doing just fine / steady as she goes / al least you are doing it right by changing the oil a few times back to back to get all the crap out of the block / not sure but i think there is a reusable oil filter for that type of filter container or there may be a use once and throw away / just keep chipping away till it's done and done right / and then she will run like a clock / and then you will have a bad ass truck that every truck guy wished they had / good things in life take time and work and most of all lot's of FAITH with out faith your screwed
I shared on my fb maybe get you some more viewers
Thank you!
I couldn't really see when you were trying to start it each time but if the engine is cold, just give it some choke even if your weather is warm out. Those old engines can be cold blooded and just need to pull the manual choke out and should fire tight up.
Kudos! You are making progress. On the floor inside the truck, I would suggest use a wire brush on a power drill to remove the loose rust, then get some POR-15 from Eastwood Co. to treat the metal surface. It will convert the rust to a polymer. It doesn't take too long to cure. Then use some brush-on bed liner from WalMart to treat the surface for added protection. It will also help deaden sound some. For a demo on doing this, check Weird Beard on TH-cam, who is working on a '73 Plymouth Fury and used some of these products to treat the floor and roof. If you want to keep the voltage regulator the old type with contacts and thermal coils, there are units which were made for 12VDC systems. There are solid state voltage regulators, but, it sort of seems unnecessary to go that route. The gauges in the dash were designed to operate from the 6VDC system. There are pulsed regulators that will allow them to work correctly on 12VDC and the regulator drops the voltage down to about 5VDC for the gauges. That way you won't have to change any gauges. The same is true for a fuel tank float/sending unit. The pulsed voltage regulator will allow the sending unit to work the fuel gauge correctly too.