Take those vents out, they are generally a fine gauze (not in your case) for catching grease. They are a big mass of cold metal that I think will always condensate. Ensure the vent tube is as big as possible 6” normally, with limited bends and a short run - looks like you have these things. If you can get a sheet of paper to stick to the underside you have good suction. You could bring it lower with a plywood box mounted to the ceiling, Ive had to do that before on those kind of island hoods. Finally check there’s no carbon filters screwed onto the intake, they will slow the flow too and it’s pointless filtering the air before you pump in outside.
The duct off of the hood is graded backwards. Which helps cause heat rises but any condensation that builds up in the duct will drain back to the hood. Anyways, really enjoy the videos. Learning a lot.
Very thankful for keeping the grist in percentages. Bittering hops in ibu is fine. Maybe it is an idea to present flameout or dry hops as grams per liter or ounce per gallon?
Very good beer, easy to make, i do it every year. I use only EKG hops ( inc. dry hopping). I do 13 Plateau degree beer. Never get enough of this style.
Hey man, your channel is amazing. Your videos are clean. An advice from a civil enginner, two bolts to hold the pulley chains might be not enough. But if they are going through the wood beam and and hold by nut and steel plate, that’s ok.
I adjust all the recipes I see in books, mags, online etc to suit my system, efficiency and volumes. So percentages are very useful. Pounds and ounces for a five gallon batch at 75% efficiency is only a starting point for litres and grams for a 25 litre batch at 80% efficiency. It would be very useful to do end of boil hops and dry hops in ounces per gallon and grams per litre. Thanks very much for an excellent series.
Its one fine english ale you have brewed......looks delishious.......you shud go pro Martin.............thanks for the vid.....cheers and stay safe.......
I use the same brewing system, You should use two pulleys one by the hook on top and keep the ratchet one at the bottom it will make it much easier to lift that grain bag. Also use a silicone or cork mat between your kettle and table so you don’t transfer the kettles heat to your table. Keep the videos coming, I’m loving it.
Finally IPAaayay and I always take my grills off before the brewing. Just drop them to the side for entire brewing and put them back on as soon as you finish. Keep up the good job mate.
@@TheHomebrewChallenge maybe remove the grids all together and buy a couple ss or aluminum U channels an 1" wide and attach them around the edges, would be very similar to what Nordlands is talking about
Loving this channel during lockdown. Very well done on the production and pace of these videos. I’m also brewing once a week during lockdown although, not quite as organised as yourself. Need to move to half batches so I don’t use up all my bottles and kegs. Keep it up! Looking forward to seeing you do a traditional Scottish beer. Something like a belhaven best.
Literally just brewed one. It was the first batch I made on my new brew system / brewery in my new house. So good. The. Color of MO is just amazing. I used a ton of late whirlpool Loral hops (my house/ favorite hop) goes so well with this style in my opinion
I'd remove the grill grates entirely. Most likely blocking air flow and providing a cool place for steam to condensate. Those grates are for catching vaporized hot oil over a cooking surface. As always, love you videos :)
The filters are condensing the water vapour, so remove them. They will increase air flow which will also boost your extraction rate. Maybe think about swapping out the flexible ducting for some solid too. That also improves your flow rate, but more importantly you won't get as much water collecting in all the dips.
A 'normal' IPA is an English IPA as that is where the style originated, here in the UK. I would highly recommend the recipe in American brewer Michael Dawson's book Mashmaker (Liquid Swords Throwback IPA). A really simple 'SMASH' recipe. Just Pale malt (Maris Otter) and East Kent Goldings for a really close historical take on this style. I brewed one and it was shockingly hoppy in the herby but bitter English way. But, boy, does it improve with age and it's deliciously satisfying. Don't get me wrong, I love American IPAs as well for their citrus cleanness. In fact that may my next in this lockdown situation as I have loads of pale malt and leftover American hops! Great video as always Martin. I look forward to each one.
Hey Martin, you probably fixed this long ago, but I just watched your efforts with the extraction hood. In ancient Pompeii, the ceilings of the steam rooms were fluted and vaulted to capture the condensation and let it run down to the walls and not drop on the patrons. You could angle the filter plates and have the drips run towards the wall to be collected in a channel and piped down to a container !?
Agree with the others, use your system’s lid and install a steam condenser. A few things I learned from installing a steam condenser on my BK: 1. You’ll definitely need to figure out what your new boil off percentage is. 2. You’ll be running your system using 45-55% less power. I used to run my book kettle’s element at 100%, now it’s at 55-ish. 3. You’ll end up with a lot of waste water that can be repurposed for cleaning the BK.
But like... what do you even do for a dayjob? This channel has got to take 20+ hours a week to produce (without the brewing!). Either way - thanks for all the quality! Inspires me to keep brewing
I installed a condensation hood vent with 10 inch fan attached to it. The hood is from fast hood vents. It's a 4x4 and cost a lot unfortunately. But rain inside is not an option for me. As my brewery dosen't have windows. I also have the ability to brew some massive batches it also keeps the smell out of the house I can't smell anything unless I'm over the kettle. Neighbors are getting a good whiff tho
The water on the hood is caused because the steam is hotter then the metal, it then condenses. You either need a steam condenser or a steam hood as stated in a previous comment. Clawhammer should be able to make one for that rig.
An earlier post mentions the 'ship thing'? Not quite sure what it refers to but if it is the effects on the taste of the IPA during sailing then read Pete Brown's book 'Hops and Glory' (read all his books they are brilliant) where he essentially replicated the voyage of a traditionally brewed IPA from Burton on Trent, and carried it on a canal barge , then sailing schooner and finally container ship to Mumbai. The change in taste was so profound that Englishmen who came home from the colony demanded the same taste they enjoyed there, so brewers would gently spin the hogsheads during storage to replicate the movement of the ship.
Hi Martin, Love the videos and look forward to something each week. I tried to get the recipe from Atlantic Brewing site but I must be missing something as I can't see it. I like the previous videos that had the recipe listed in the text below the video. Keep going, looking forward to the rest of the styles. Paul
Hi your water is turning back to moisture before exiting the tube the cold air from outside it meeting it and gravity is feeding it back. The best thing to do is put in a moisture trap make a slight u bend in the pipe so the water will collect at the lower point and then find a way to drain off. Alternatively you will have to take the hose right out of the wall just after the hood. Sorry nother way to do it.. Can't beat thermodynamics buddy.
Use two pulleys, with the bottom pulley being the ratcheted one. Your rope would tie to the top pulley, come down through the bottom ratcheting pulley, then back through the top pulley. You'll increase the the efficiency of your downward pulls, and still be able to utilize the ratchet.
Try removing the fan grates , it might be enough and I don’t see why you need them. Air velocity will be your friend, faster air or smaller pipe will help but cause more noise. Insulated duct can reduce noise if you get a larger fan. Also a fresh air intake will make the flow much more efficient. My suggestion for your malt bill is list it all. I like the percent as it’s universal but can visualize better with lbs/oz and it would be nice to see it all together base and specialty malts. Thanks for great videos and consistent quality production
Martin, would love to hear more about what grains you decide to keep on hand. As an AG brewer, I try to keep certain grains on hand so I can brew whenever. Would love to hear your thoughts as you seem to have a whole home brew store in your basement!
Haha close it to. I keep three base malts in bulk (2 row, pils, Maris Otter) and have smaller containers of, well, a bunch of stuff that I’ve accumulated as I needed it. So if a recipe called for 1lb of a certain grain I’d buy 4lb and store the rest.
Hi those grills are called grease traps and being made of steel for easy cleaning. They will slow down the air flow so the grease collects on them, so it does not build up in the pipes and create a fire hazard. You would be better off removing them and trying to put in a second fan just above of your kettle to speed up the air flow, before it can condense on a cold surface. Like the ones you find in a kitchen or a bathroom
Condensation issue - You're getting condensation because the stem is not moving with enough force to get beyond the grates. The slow air movement gives the steam time to cool back to its water state and hence the build up at the grates. I would recommend adding an inline booster fan at about the mid point of your exhaust hose. 200 cfm should work. Cheers!
The stainless Grills in the ventilation hood are the cause of the condensating problems, the steam is condensing on contact, you may be better with alu ones or none at all.
What brand is your sink faucet there behind you and where do you get your containers that you hold you specialty grains in? You actually will have a hard time dissipating the steam unless you go with a condensate style hood. Rather pricey though. Spike is supposed to come out with a steam hat soon though or you could build your own.
Nice recipe, but got a question if you don't mind :) What could I do if my fermentation stops at 1.02X almost all the times? I'm fermenting at 24ºc for 3-4 weeks. Thanks a lot man
If I was streaming my brew sessions, I'd always talk about % and absolutes (underlining that those only apply to my setup). And since I'm from Europe, talking in Celcius and all, I'd always add popups in F, or when using anything metric, add a popup with its imperial equivalent. It's a very easy way to follow the video, without the need to pause and google certain conversion rates.
@@TheHomebrewChallenge Ah...Ok. was getting excited about the thought of a new brewery opening! I'm part of a monthly Brew Tours and Bottle Shops group in Cary, run by a guy from back home in the UK. Really appreciate and love watching your videos.
The more plausible story behind IPAs is more from the fact that they were named for the "East Indian Trading Company" as the brewery that was first developing them was located near the port for the EITC. They were over-hopped as a general preference rather than the need for long transport otherwise they would have been over hopping the other beer styles (Stouts, Porters, etc.), which they obviously never did otherwise we would have unique hoppy variants for those as well.
So the problem you're having with your venting system is that it is acting more like a condenser now. Unfortunately, you are cooling the steam which is causing it to recondense once it contacts the fume hood which can happen fast. So the only way to effectively carry away steam is to keep the vented air hot. The only easy thing I can think of is that you will need to build some sort of moisture collector like a de-humidifier. You need to carry the recondensed water away once it has become water again. Maybe just a little hose that can allow the water to flow toward a drain rather then dripping back into the beer.
If you insulate the fan duct all the way to the exit, it should help stop the steam condensing and running back to the fan. Although i suspect it's not going to be perfect. It would have been better if the duct ran downhill all the way to the exit.
Percentages and IBU’s are perfect. I think when you get into more of the IPA’s you’ll get a lot of questions about how much did you dry hop. Are you able to put in a grams per litre for dry hopping? Not sure if this suits the imperial system but I’m sure we can work around that
I came here cause I'm doing an interesting batch. I am going for an English style IPA with Challenger for bittering, Fuggles and EKG for 10' and @ flameout/whirlpool. Sadly, currently I can't keep the beer chill during fermentation so I went for a good Norwegian farmhouse yeast fermenting @ 35-40C (95-104 F) and with such high temperatures dry hopping is out of the question. EDIT: I live in Athens, hence the high temps.
Awesome you used wittbred! How did you like this strain compared to London lll? I have been brewing exclusively with Wyeast westyorksire for a few months and I really like it.
What is the reasoning behind drinking British styles from a pilsner glass as opposed to a nonic or tulip pint during tastings? I also commented about this on one of your bitter videos
OMG IPA's :-) With your extraction hood, the problem I think is with the metal baffles being cold. What do the metal baffles actually do? Remove them altogether or 3D print some plastic ones? About another 7+ months until the American IPA's :( P.S. Chocolate Porter turned out really well ;-)
There are a million other options for block and tackle... that actually have a mechanical advantage. Camlocks, jam cleats,... even better yet, a small electric winch... sky's the limit bud.
Loving the series - if youre feeling nerdy then check out 'Hops and Glory' by Pete brown. Somewhere between a travel book and beer history book about the rise of IPAs. Basically they werent made with high alcohol and hops to stave off oxidation and infection - its just that those with those qualities lasted better and sold better in india so beers with those traits were made more and more for india. Evolution meets capitalism ;)
And imagine what's happening in the ribbed vent tube you're using... Water collecting, bacteria colonies settling in... Eventual water overflow back towards your extractor. Eek.
Flexible hose style bathroom extractor is what you want. the type where there is an inline roofspace fan. Run it down the wall to the fan then another piece of flexi down to where you want it. You could hook it up to a flexible ball arm so you can push it out of the way when not in use and pull it to your kettle when needed and adjust the position. no moisture or droplet problems... would have cost less than an hood extractor too. Not advocating this product, just an example of an inline fan. hook up your own 100mm flexi hose. www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SLTD160.html?ad_position=&source=adwords&ad_id=90394066997&placement=&kw=&network=g&matchtype=b&ad_type=&product_id=&product_partition_id=&version=finalurl_v3&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6pCG-d7o6AIVWeDtCh0hHgSmEAAYASAAEgJjEfD_BwE
Make sure your fan moves enough CFM. By memory, mine is about 650. Those grates in your hood aren't doing you any favors, just more condensation points. I'm also not a big fan of the flexible plastic pipe. I used galvanized smooth metal pipe, which has worked well. Keep up the good work!
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Percentages are very helpful, thanks!
Here to stay (...for now at least)
Like the brewing of the beer and the tasting straight after. 👍
congratulations on pulling through
Take those vents out, they are generally a fine gauze (not in your case) for catching grease. They are a big mass of cold metal that I think will always condensate. Ensure the vent tube is as big as possible 6” normally, with limited bends and a short run - looks like you have these things. If you can get a sheet of paper to stick to the underside you have good suction. You could bring it lower with a plywood box mounted to the ceiling, Ive had to do that before on those kind of island hoods. Finally check there’s no carbon filters screwed onto the intake, they will slow the flow too and it’s pointless filtering the air before you pump in outside.
The duct off of the hood is graded backwards. Which helps cause heat rises but any condensation that builds up in the duct will drain back to the hood. Anyways, really enjoy the videos. Learning a lot.
Very thankful for keeping the grist in percentages. Bittering hops in ibu is fine. Maybe it is an idea to present flameout or dry hops as grams per liter or ounce per gallon?
Yes!
instablaster...
Very good beer, easy to make, i do it every year. I use only EKG hops ( inc. dry hopping). I do 13 Plateau degree beer. Never get enough of this style.
Not only in these times: Your videos are so great!
Stay healthy!
Harry (from Germany)
Thank you!
Hey man, your channel is amazing. Your videos are clean. An advice from a civil enginner, two bolts to hold the pulley chains might be not enough. But if they are going through the wood beam and and hold by nut and steel plate, that’s ok.
Thank you. It seems pretty secure up there but I guess we’ll see 😯
I adjust all the recipes I see in books, mags, online etc to suit my system, efficiency and volumes. So percentages are very useful. Pounds and ounces for a five gallon batch at 75% efficiency is only a starting point for litres and grams for a 25 litre batch at 80% efficiency. It would be very useful to do end of boil hops and dry hops in ounces per gallon and grams per litre. Thanks very much for an excellent series.
Its one fine english ale you have brewed......looks delishious.......you shud go pro Martin.............thanks for the vid.....cheers and stay safe.......
Thanks man. It was delicious.
Percentages for the win, thank you
Not many times when you see Lauren that excited.
Your videos are great man!!! Thank you for the help!!
Thank you!
I use the same brewing system, You should use two pulleys one by the hook on top and keep the ratchet one at the bottom it will make it much easier to lift that grain bag. Also use a silicone or cork mat between your kettle and table so you don’t transfer the kettles heat to your table. Keep the videos coming, I’m loving it.
Thanks. Oh and good idea about putting something under that kettle.
Finally IPAaayay and I always take my grills off before the brewing. Just drop them to the side for entire brewing and put them back on as soon as you finish. Keep up the good job mate.
Oh so you leave the grills off completely during the boil?
@@TheHomebrewChallenge that's right mate and I'm putting lid on the top in half way to direct the steam flow.
English IPA's are one of my favorite styles, Martin! But the whole ship thing is a marketing legend.
Thanks Dean! And yeah I thought it might be.
Also, I'm going to brew up an ordinary bitter. Just can't find any good ones these days.
You should look into getting a steam hood, which has a gutter/folded edge with a drain for the condensation.
Interesting. That looks like it would help.
Yes, I used to work i a kitchen for years and all of our hoods had a slanted face and a gutter for the steam to condesate into a driptray.
@@TheHomebrewChallenge maybe remove the grids all together and buy a couple ss or aluminum U channels an 1" wide and attach them around the edges, would be very similar to what Nordlands is talking about
Loving this channel during lockdown. Very well done on the production and pace of these videos. I’m also brewing once a week during lockdown although, not quite as organised as yourself. Need to move to half batches so I don’t use up all my bottles and kegs. Keep it up! Looking forward to seeing you do a traditional Scottish beer. Something like a belhaven best.
Great video! English IPAs are amazing.
Great videos Mardy!!
Literally just brewed one. It was the first batch I made on my new brew system / brewery in my new house. So good. The. Color of MO is just amazing. I used a ton of late whirlpool Loral hops (my house/ favorite hop) goes so well with this style in my opinion
Greetings from a fellow Brit, great video as always full of tips and clear advice, thanks for your time and effort :)
I'd remove the grill grates entirely. Most likely blocking air flow and providing a cool place for steam to condensate. Those grates are for catching vaporized hot oil over a cooking surface.
As always, love you videos :)
Thanks. Yeah never boiling anything oily. Makes sense to try without.
The filters are condensing the water vapour, so remove them. They will increase air flow which will also boost your extraction rate. Maybe think about swapping out the flexible ducting for some solid too. That also improves your flow rate, but more importantly you won't get as much water collecting in all the dips.
Martin, I look forward to your weekly videos even more than my weekly unemployment benefit. 😕
Keep up the great work.
😀 and 😕
Hope that you have a Great EASTER. This sounds Great. #STAYSAFE
You too!
A 'normal' IPA is an English IPA as that is where the style originated, here in the UK. I would highly recommend the recipe in American brewer Michael Dawson's book Mashmaker (Liquid Swords Throwback IPA). A really simple 'SMASH' recipe. Just Pale malt (Maris Otter) and East Kent Goldings for a really close historical take on this style. I brewed one and it was shockingly hoppy in the herby but bitter English way. But, boy, does it improve with age and it's deliciously satisfying. Don't get me wrong, I love American IPAs as well for their citrus cleanness. In fact that may my next in this lockdown situation as I have loads of pale malt and leftover American hops! Great video as always Martin. I look forward to each one.
Thanks Ian. Definitely worth the time to make this style of beer.
Hey Martin, you probably fixed this long ago, but I just watched your efforts with the extraction hood. In ancient Pompeii, the ceilings of the steam rooms were fluted and vaulted to capture the condensation and let it run down to the walls and not drop on the patrons. You could angle the filter plates and have the drips run towards the wall to be collected in a channel and piped down to a container !?
Thanks !
Agree with the others, use your system’s lid and install a steam condenser. A few things I learned from installing a steam condenser on my BK:
1. You’ll definitely need to figure out what your new boil off percentage is.
2. You’ll be running your system using 45-55% less power. I used to run my book kettle’s element at 100%, now it’s at 55-ish.
3. You’ll end up with a lot of waste water that can be repurposed for cleaning the BK.
But like... what do you even do for a dayjob? This channel has got to take 20+ hours a week to produce (without the brewing!). Either way - thanks for all the quality! Inspires me to keep brewing
logan danforth also, how can you drink all that beer and still do the job
I think he owns a brewery.
I installed a condensation hood vent with 10 inch fan attached to it. The hood is from fast hood vents. It's a 4x4 and cost a lot unfortunately. But rain inside is not an option for me. As my brewery dosen't have windows. I also have the ability to brew some massive batches it also keeps the smell out of the house I can't smell anything unless I'm over the kettle. Neighbors are getting a good whiff tho
I sampled IPA's throughout England and Ireland, all below 5%. Never had one better than we brew in our nano.
The water on the hood is caused because the steam is hotter then the metal, it then condenses. You either need a steam condenser or a steam hood as stated in a previous comment. Clawhammer should be able to make one for that rig.
An earlier post mentions the 'ship thing'? Not quite sure what it refers to but if it is the effects on the taste of the IPA during sailing then read Pete Brown's book 'Hops and Glory' (read all his books they are brilliant) where he essentially replicated the voyage of a traditionally brewed IPA from Burton on Trent, and carried it on a canal barge , then sailing schooner and finally container ship to Mumbai. The change in taste was so profound that Englishmen who came home from the colony demanded the same taste they enjoyed there, so brewers would gently spin the hogsheads during storage to replicate the movement of the ship.
Hi Martin,
Love the videos and look forward to something each week. I tried to get the recipe from Atlantic Brewing site but I must be missing something as I can't see it. I like the previous videos that had the recipe listed in the text below the video. Keep going, looking forward to the rest of the styles.
Paul
Hi Paul, you can find the recipe here: www.atlanticbrewsupply.com/assets/images/PDF/Homebrew%20Challenge%20English%20IPA%20(AG).pdf
Hi your water is turning back to moisture before exiting the tube the cold air from outside it meeting it and gravity is feeding it back. The best thing to do is put in a moisture trap make a slight u bend in the pipe so the water will collect at the lower point and then find a way to drain off. Alternatively you will have to take the hose right out of the wall just after the hood. Sorry nother way to do it.. Can't beat thermodynamics buddy.
Great vid! I'm trying to brew a boddingtons pub ale clone. Any suggestions?
I tried this year ago and failed horribly. Good luck! Serve on nitro if you can.
Use two pulleys, with the bottom pulley being the ratcheted one. Your rope would tie to the top pulley, come down through the bottom ratcheting pulley, then back through the top pulley. You'll increase the the efficiency of your downward pulls, and still be able to utilize the ratchet.
Try removing the fan grates , it might be enough and I don’t see why you need them. Air velocity will be your friend, faster air or smaller pipe will help but cause more noise. Insulated duct can reduce noise if you get a larger fan. Also a fresh air intake will make the flow much more efficient. My suggestion for your malt bill is list it all. I like the percent as it’s universal but can visualize better with lbs/oz and it would be nice to see it all together base and specialty malts. Thanks for great videos and consistent quality production
Pls explain types of beer , like ale lager ipa etc
I am so curious about what 21B will be.
It’ll be all of them. I just couldn’t pick one 😀
Martin, would love to hear more about what grains you decide to keep on hand. As an AG brewer, I try to keep certain grains on hand so I can brew whenever. Would love to hear your thoughts as you seem to have a whole home brew store in your basement!
Haha close it to. I keep three base malts in bulk (2 row, pils, Maris Otter) and have smaller containers of, well, a bunch of stuff that I’ve accumulated as I needed it. So if a recipe called for 1lb of a certain grain I’d buy 4lb and store the rest.
@@TheHomebrewChallenge What kinda of containers do you store your specialty malt in? Amazon link? - Loving these videos! Keep it up!
Hi those grills are called grease traps and being made of steel for easy cleaning. They will slow down the air flow so the grease collects on them, so it does not build up in the pipes and create a fire hazard. You would be better off removing them and trying to put in a second fan just above of your kettle to speed up the air flow, before it can condense on a cold surface. Like the ones you find in a kitchen or a bathroom
Condensation issue - You're getting condensation because the stem is not moving with enough force to get beyond the grates. The slow air movement gives the steam time to cool back to its water state and hence the build up at the grates. I would recommend adding an inline booster fan at about the mid point of your exhaust hose. 200 cfm should work. Cheers!
Thank you. Looking into something like this.
Thank you
The stainless Grills in the ventilation hood are the cause of the condensating problems, the steam is condensing on contact, you may be better with alu ones or none at all.
What brand is your sink faucet there behind you and where do you get your containers that you hold you specialty grains in? You actually will have a hard time dissipating the steam unless you go with a condensate style hood. Rather pricey though. Spike is supposed to come out with a steam hat soon though or you could build your own.
Nice recipe, but got a question if you don't mind :)
What could I do if my fermentation stops at 1.02X almost all the times? I'm fermenting at 24ºc for 3-4 weeks.
Thanks a lot man
That’s quite warm. Maybe start a little lower. The other thing you can try is lowering your mash temp.
Congratulations on the video and the beer, but how about risking a bit sour, Catharina sour with Raspberry's.
Nice. Looks like very good head retention. Did you add anything special to achieve that?
If I was streaming my brew sessions, I'd always talk about % and absolutes (underlining that those only apply to my setup). And since I'm from Europe, talking in Celcius and all, I'd always add popups in F, or when using anything metric, add a popup with its imperial equivalent. It's a very easy way to follow the video, without the need to pause and google certain conversion rates.
Do you have a brewery in the Raleigh area Martin?
Home brewery yes. In Cary.
@@TheHomebrewChallenge Ah...Ok. was getting excited about the thought of a new brewery opening!
I'm part of a monthly Brew Tours and Bottle Shops group in Cary, run by a guy from back home in the UK.
Really appreciate and love watching your videos.
I would do the grain LBS too not just the %
Thanks
I just use a fan to disperse vapor in the room.... it stop dripping.
The more plausible story behind IPAs is more from the fact that they were named for the "East Indian Trading Company" as the brewery that was first developing them was located near the port for the EITC. They were over-hopped as a general preference rather than the need for long transport otherwise they would have been over hopping the other beer styles (Stouts, Porters, etc.), which they obviously never did otherwise we would have unique hoppy variants for those as well.
So the problem you're having with your venting system is that it is acting more like a condenser now. Unfortunately, you are cooling the steam which is causing it to recondense once it contacts the fume hood which can happen fast. So the only way to effectively carry away steam is to keep the vented air hot. The only easy thing I can think of is that you will need to build some sort of moisture collector like a de-humidifier. You need to carry the recondensed water away once it has become water again. Maybe just a little hose that can allow the water to flow toward a drain rather then dripping back into the beer.
Yeah that’s definitely what’s happening here.
Great video Martin, Now you just have to start the challenge over using percentages and target IBU’s for all the recipes! 😂 Cheers 🍻
😂
If you insulate the fan duct all the way to the exit, it should help stop the steam condensing and running back to the fan. Although i suspect it's not going to be perfect. It would have been better if the duct ran downhill all the way to the exit.
Are you going to do a Lambic?
Hi Martin! What was the water profile for this brew?
Percentages and IBU’s are perfect. I think when you get into more of the IPA’s you’ll get a lot of questions about how much did you dry hop. Are you able to put in a grams per litre for dry hopping? Not sure if this suits the imperial system but I’m sure we can work around that
Yes I think that makes sense. Thanks.
I came here cause I'm doing an interesting batch. I am going for an English style IPA with Challenger for bittering, Fuggles and EKG for 10' and @ flameout/whirlpool. Sadly, currently I can't keep the beer chill during fermentation so I went for a good Norwegian farmhouse yeast fermenting @ 35-40C (95-104 F) and with such high temperatures dry hopping is out of the question.
EDIT: I live in Athens, hence the high temps.
Hi. Silly question. In the Atlantic recipe the dough in volume is given as 15.5 quarts. I take it that's US quarts?
Yeah all US measurements.
Awesome you used wittbred! How did you like this strain compared to London lll? I have been brewing exclusively with Wyeast westyorksire for a few months and I really like it.
Brewed such a beer a couple of years ago. Very specific aroma not like usual IPA
Yes we noticed that too. Such a tasty beer style.
The visible insulation right above the open mash-tun doesnt look right. Doesn't that stuff drizzle down sometimes?
What’s your brew efficiency with the clawhammer? Do you sparge at all?
What is the reasoning behind drinking British styles from a pilsner glass as opposed to a nonic or tulip pint during tastings? I also commented about this on one of your bitter videos
Merely that I try to rotate glasses so I’m not using the same one for every English beer. Yeah I know, not a good reason.
I got tired of steam dripping so I built a steam condenser lid. No steam inside now!
OMG IPA's :-) With your extraction hood, the problem I think is with the metal baffles being cold. What do the metal baffles actually do? Remove them altogether or 3D print some plastic ones? About another 7+ months until the American IPA's :(
P.S. Chocolate Porter turned out really well ;-)
It sure sounds good!
Hi, I have a question for you, is there anyway you could go into Africa and try a few of their styles?? They've got some good stuff
How about carbonation, Martin? Did you add some sugar or do you add gas in a keg? Do you bottle or keg? Cheers.
Martin Rea he kegs everything as far as I know
Keg and force carbonated.
How much gallons of water do you use for brewing? Is it allways the same for all recipes?
Whatever BeerSmith tells me I need based on my recipe and my equipment profile. It’s a little different every time.
Clean your hood, you have a lot of dust/dirt on it. The beer does look good too. Cheers
I rather like the lbs vs percentages.
When you say 5 gallons, is that imperial or US gallons?
But why on earth Belgian biscuit malt?
There are a million other options for block and tackle... that actually have a mechanical advantage. Camlocks, jam cleats,... even better yet, a small electric winch... sky's the limit bud.
Loving the series - if youre feeling nerdy then check out 'Hops and Glory' by Pete brown. Somewhere between a travel book and beer history book about the rise of IPAs.
Basically they werent made with high alcohol and hops to stave off oxidation and infection - its just that those with those qualities lasted better and sold better in india so beers with those traits were made more and more for india. Evolution meets capitalism ;)
& steam slayer from brewhardware.com love it, had ro redial in boil off but wow, no mess
Your videos are great, just do % of grain and AA% for hops. Most people should be able to understand that .
And imagine what's happening in the ribbed vent tube you're using... Water collecting, bacteria colonies settling in... Eventual water overflow back towards your extractor.
Eek.
nooooooooooooooooooooooooooo. yes
Just take the grates off the hood and it won't gather water anymore....
Funny, I've was just thinking about an English IPA.
percentage is much more easy
I always thought English IPA WAS the normal IPA.
She Gaslighted me with "normal".
American IPA's are not normal in the same way that being tied up is not normal bed time fun.
She lives in the USA so it's normal.
@@jasonwelsh3256 It's cultural appropriation.
Flexible hose style bathroom extractor is what you want. the type where there is an inline roofspace fan. Run it down the wall to the fan then another piece of flexi down to where you want it. You could hook it up to a flexible ball arm so you can push it out of the way when not in use and pull it to your kettle when needed and adjust the position. no moisture or droplet problems... would have cost less than an hood extractor too.
Not advocating this product, just an example of an inline fan. hook up your own 100mm flexi hose.
www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SLTD160.html?ad_position=&source=adwords&ad_id=90394066997&placement=&kw=&network=g&matchtype=b&ad_type=&product_id=&product_partition_id=&version=finalurl_v3&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6pCG-d7o6AIVWeDtCh0hHgSmEAAYASAAEgJjEfD_BwE
Thanks. Will look into this.
Make sure your fan moves enough CFM. By memory, mine is about 650. Those grates in your hood aren't doing you any favors, just more condensation points. I'm also not a big fan of the flexible plastic pipe. I used galvanized smooth metal pipe, which has worked well. Keep up the good work!
Are you german?
Insufferable music made the video unwatchable. Sorry.