Great demo....and thanks for putting no commentary or music in the background. The hum and noises of you putting everything together is the best soundtrack.
Had one of those at our family home when I was a kid, was rebuilt multiple times over the years to breathe new life into it and give it a good clean. Seeing a cross section of it in action is truly taking me back
I was having thoughts about how cleaning the chimney soot could be a problem but it would sure cut down on so much of the wasted heat from a straight up chimney .
@peterjol Generally speaking, masonry stoves like this are designed to burn wood really efficiently, in a short period of time, rather than over time like a cast-iron stove. This results in dramatically less build-up inside the chimney, so cleaning is less of a problem!
@@peterjol you didn't notice the sooot trap clean out! or you don't like the idea of having to pull the soot into the house!? ash vacume? you could even reverse the flow so that the cleanout is out side!
The swedes use a 5-channel design. The finns as well though in later years they modernized the masonry heater with a free standing core that was not physically connected to the walls. This had many advantages and prevented stress from thermal movement. They also got rid of the traditional tiles and used metal exteriors, thin sheet metal, even copper. This was far superior to tile and the whole heater can be fired to higher temperatures than the traditional tile based ones who would crack and leak if burned too hard. Finnish designs from the 1940s also incorporated secondary air.
@@JDeWittDIY Here you can see a drawing i.imgur.com/xmGIRIm.jpg And here you can see a small one being built eevuli.blogspot.com/2015/05/ponttouunin-muuraus.html Googling the word Pönttöuuni should yield more results
@@1873Winchester Looks efficient! Btw, LLP=5.5m2 means heat exchange surface area. I have similar fireplace still in use from 1928, although it does not have the secondary air channel.
@@1873Winchester Thankyou for sharing links very interesting, loved looking at the design. especially the fresh air port leading directly up in the fire chamber. I didn't see the couple implementing that feature which I imagine would be hard to do in the version they built. But I would like to encourage people to emulate as it makes the fire hotter. I think that's way it is in the plan, but I could be wrong, lol. Nice vid Grain, loved the little bricks. It would be great to see a full working miniature fire place plus infrared video.
Agree, I'm not sure I would consider this a "How it works" demonstration. It's simply a cutaway demonstration. Very useful for explaining, but the video is lacking that key "Explanation part". I do appreciate the demonstration tho. Great work.
In a normal stove with straight chimney, cold air from the chimney will freeze the stove almost immediately when the fire is done burning. With this stove, cold air is blocked by the syphon, which is filled with hot smoke. The stove stays warm much longer.
Great demo, I’ve built a few fireplaces in my time and I can see how this would reduce down draft problems, particularly with a short stack. I’m assuming once the bricks heated up, the draft would be very strong and the thermal mass would continue to radiate heat.
thats why this isnt actually the best demonstration - he didnt preheat the stack using the top gate. Thats pretty important where extreme temps happen, the smoke wont even push out of the stack if the temp was below zero celsius, not without smoking out the cabin.
Cleaning of the Russian stoves is done only occasionally, by removing two strategically placed bricks in the structure. Chimneys and stoves are often painted white to make it easy to spot any dangerous leakage.
@@Boris-Vasiliev Most of the heat in a regular modern fireplace is sucked straight out of the chimney. This design uses more surface area to absorb heat from the smoke and radiate it through the brick inside the house! :)
@@robozstarrr8930 Maybe english is not his native language. There are similar designs for both heating and cooking. They are ususally made with a bypass for summer time, to direct smoke straight out of the chimney.
Wow this is the most straight forward direct visual explanation of the basics of that type of woodstove/heater. I've been wanting to build my own new replacement for the old crappy 1970s funnel fireplace my dad built in when I was a kid, its terribly inefficient. Its cool looking but wastes so much heat. I've just really been interested in these when I had them featured in a magazine I was getting back several years ago.
I used a similar type of stove in Russia. There were two dampers, both open to start the fire. Once it was going and the chimney was warm, the lower one was closed. When all the wood was burned (usually in less than an hour) we closed all inlets and the chimney damper. Then the whole structure heated up and kept the house warm for about 12 hours. I would like to have seen an explanation of how that worked.
Great job. Such an innovative idea to illustrate how masonry wood heater work without words. I wonder where a good place could be to drill a bunch of holes to combust the smoke.
That secondary air needs to be preheated, otherwise it cools the gasses below their flash point. I have a woodburning furnace that runs the incoming air through metal tubes in the firebox before releasing it through many tiny holes in tubes across the top of the firebox. When burning, they look just like the jets in a gas furnace. So to answer your question, an additional layer of brick could be stacked to form an envelope around the firebox, with narrow gaps along the top of the firebox. These channels would be closed when the firebox is first lit, to prevent downdrafting smoke away from the chimney, then opened once a good draw and flame is established.
How to increase the combustion chamber temperature for the cleanest most efficient burn? Take the heat out of the system outside the combustion area, that is, in the exhaust pathway. Best to insulate the combustion chamber, and perhaps it’ll even require pre-gasification of the fuel. Aim for blue flame in a small combustion chamber and a long heat removal path to combine good burn with good heat extraction. Key is not sucking the heat away from the combustion chamber walls. This is a great few steps in the right direction. Congratulations and thank you.
@@skakpedersen That is why old fireplaces normally had a compartment for storing a bit of wood right alongside them: you'd fire the place and then get wood for the next burn which would be nice and dry before it is needed.
This is relatively easy in masonry fireplaces... The brick is usually not too thermally conductive so it would allow fire to reach fairly high temperatures. In fireplaces that are made out of metal the burn chamber is usually insulated with brick or some other ceramic. One important factor to consider is the fact that once you do have a bed of charcoal, primary air fed through the grate is basically going to regulate the temperature of the coalbed and as such the rate of gasification. This is why secondary air is a necessity and according to L. D. Porta the ideal ratio between primary and secondary air is around 20/80% L. D. Porta worked on steam locomotives during the end part of the steam era, and in my opinion his works are interesting to basically anyone interested in burning solid fuels, or locomotives. He was one of the few locomotive designers to apply scientific principles and methods to locomotive design... It is a bit sad that all he got to work with was making modifications to already existing locomotives. But to the very end he did dream of making new locomotive.
I don't need it but I'm so gonna make it this summer. It's been years since TH-cam suggested something so fun and informative that made me wanna do it myself. You got yourself a sub.
Great little model. So what is the advantage of the s channel in the ducting? Why not just go straight up? Does that capture more heat in the house with this style?
The bricks absorb the heat from the smoke. It becomes a thermal mass which will radiate the heat even after the fire goes out. The long path allows better heat absorption than a straight shot. Check out thermal mass rocket stoves. There is no smoke one the stove gets going, and no heat is wasted out the chimney.
can you retain the smoke somehow? For heat and for smoking food or fermenting alchohol? Make a smoke filled space behind the three layers so the cold smoke falls down?
Imagine burying those smoke routes horizontally under the floor of the house. That's ondol, a Korean traditional heating system. We cannot enjoy fire indoor but the house is nice and warm even from your feet. I can imagine your demonstration would be good too.
How do you clean the internal chimney? Watching the soot build up just in that small demo makes me wonder how you prevent chimney fires in a full sized one.
You use a brush like a normal chimney. The back one you clean upwards from the burn chamber, then the cleanout door above the burn chamber for the horizontal section, and from the top of the chimney for the tall section.
Very COoL (or hot depending:) Back in the 60's they use to fear the 'draft'. But it look pretty sweet to me. I love that you even have a tiny tool too - oh, my bad Cheers from So.CA.USA 2nd House On the Left.
Those mini bricks are cute. Did you make them yourself? Ideal for your demonstration. I will try this at home. I hope using my son's Lego bricks won't be a problem.
No, I bought it on Aliexpress - aliexpress.com/item/1005007485102761.html These bricks are like real ones, made of clay and fired. But if you want to seriously do this, you can make it from plaster, there are many videos on TH-cam - th-cam.com/video/mtyIN10BGPY/w-d-xo.html
I expected that the small upperclean out door was actually used to Start the airflow and proper draft as you then beging the fire below... Nice job! Would like to see other designs, like down exhaust to a bed/stratification Chamber... and then exit smoke from the floor...!?
The model is a lot of fun to watch, but can someone pls explain what the problem with a just one-channel chimney would be? I'm a profane who comes from a rather warm place. Thanks in advance!
The extra length of the channel allows the bricks more time to absorb the heat from the fire. That means you don't need to burn as much fuel to warm your house.
I heat part of my house with something similar like this. Heat moves first up then down through four channels then moving to the chimney. Once you heat it up and keep it warm it will keep the heat in the wall for several hours, it don't need too much fire per day. It is like a radiant heater but bigger. I even went to meet the old man whose family was making those since early 1900, he gave me drawings about how it works, it was patented. Pretty advance system fire turns in some kind of extreme hot fire, don't know what it is called in English.
@@TotoMacFrame I guess I don't have a good intuition for condensation. I thought the cold glass would have to be colder than room temperature. Or otherwise, the hot air to have more water than the cold air. Do normal brick chimneys or fireplaces ever get condensation, while the brick is cold?
@@donperegrine922 Rule of thumb is: the warmer the air, the more moisture it can carry. When warm and humid air gets cooled, it cannot hold on to the humidity and the water "falls out" the air, resulting in fogged up windows in the winter, or in fogged up windows in the car when you breathe much in winter before the heating works fully. The air basically gets rid of all the water it cannot carry any longer when it cools down, e.g. by touching a cold surface. This surface basically only has to be cooler than the air to let this happen. Cooking pot with glas lid? Lid gets condensated, since the hot air from the pot cools down on the cooler lid. Those droplets are still freaking hot though. If this happens in a normal chimney is beyond my knowledge, but everything I know points towards "It should".
...wondering if the smoke can be reignited as is escaping out the last channel.and produce extra heat? Also if a free-rotation fan(turbine effect) can be at the base or beginning of the first channel, as if to produce a directional fire up the channels, and generate higher temperatures? Good video, Grain.
I don’t know about the fan, but the first has been around for a long time. This is called a "gas afterburner", for sale metal stoves almost all are made this way, but many people also put it out of bricks. In Russian it is called a bell-type stove.
@@grain-diose I understand the concept's age, I am saying again, "incorporate in the design these new features" , meaning wondering if the smoke can be reignited as is escaping out the last channel and produce extra heat. Will you make another video incorporating these features?
I am completely lost as to what point this video is trying to make about this furnace design. Is the point of this design to capture more of the heat from the fire for heating the building, or is it more about controlling smoke? How would this funace be positioned in the home? (Answered by possibly including some existing or historical examples of this furnace in the real world.) What are the limits on the length of the center "downward" channel? I assume that it does not work if it is either too short or too long. Adding some thermal imagery might also have been helpful, along with a side by side comparison to a straight chimney furnace, or whatever the cimpeting design was. I totaly understand the artistic design of the video itself. I would be totally happy to read the explanation in the video description or a pinned comment.
Oh, there's a cleaning door. My initial thought was to ask about that. Is there a way to buy or produce those bricks in large quantities. This seems like something fun to make with kids.
Would it make sense to pass air through the flames and into the duct to try and burn the smoke? I know paper produce alot o smoke so it might not be possible with regular fuel, but it would be cool! (Or rather, lit 😎)
This is really cool, Grain would please add a air pipe with port holes and a vavle to the bottom of the second bend, once its hot you should beable to achieve some secondary burning of the flue gas.
look at the pot style waste oil burner videos , they have a air pipe and blue flames come off the fresh air jets. i think with some restriction on the opening , the draft should pull air in the sujested air pipe
I apologize for not reading everyone's questions and answers but aside from that my question is how do you clean the creosote out of the cavities or is the temperature so hot that there is no creosote buildup?
Seems that the flame going up the back flue would increase risk of chimney fires. I also am curious how one would clean out debris including ash and soon at the bottom of the chimney.
How has no one noticed that this man is a giant?
jajajaja good one!
A giant man made a micro oven 😅
Don't you mean HOUS (Human Of Unusual Size)?
No no, you have it all wrong. The brick oven is just far away.
@@grain-diose giant man made a human sized oven
Great demo....and thanks for putting no commentary or music in the background. The hum and noises of you putting everything together is the best soundtrack.
Well said!
Some commentary could be nice, but yes
@@goury yeah I agree, the title mentions "How a three-channel heating brick oven works" but adds no commentary on what effect these 3 channels have
I loved it until I heard the eerie ghost screams of the damned in that smoke zoom 😅
Had one of those at our family home when I was a kid, was rebuilt multiple times over the years to breathe new life into it and give it a good clean. Seeing a cross section of it in action is truly taking me back
I was having thoughts about how cleaning the chimney soot could be a problem but it would sure cut down on so much of the wasted heat from a straight up chimney .
@peterjol Generally speaking, masonry stoves like this are designed to burn wood really efficiently, in a short period of time, rather than over time like a cast-iron stove. This results in dramatically less build-up inside the chimney, so cleaning is less of a problem!
@@peterjol you didn't notice the sooot trap clean out! or you don't like the idea of having to pull the soot into the house!? ash vacume? you could even reverse the flow so that the cleanout is out side!
How cute are those tiny bricks!
Yeah and he only charges £500 a day and only takes about 2 years to build your house
Not cute enough, I saw cutier
And not a single peace of theory....🤷? How that could be good for anyone?
Nah he just big
Good Demonstration and No Music.Thanks.
The most polite and civilized comment section i've ever seen.
Stay awesome
Challenge accepted!
;-)
I say, Sir! It is quite refreshing! *1876 grumble* Quite.
My girl is usually pretty chill and civilized when she smokes too 😅
The swedes use a 5-channel design. The finns as well though in later years they modernized the masonry heater with a free standing core that was not physically connected to the walls. This had many advantages and prevented stress from thermal movement. They also got rid of the traditional tiles and used metal exteriors, thin sheet metal, even copper. This was far superior to tile and the whole heater can be fired to higher temperatures than the traditional tile based ones who would crack and leak if burned too hard. Finnish designs from the 1940s also incorporated secondary air.
Do you have an example of an improved Finnish design?
@@JDeWittDIY Here you can see a drawing i.imgur.com/xmGIRIm.jpg
And here you can see a small one being built eevuli.blogspot.com/2015/05/ponttouunin-muuraus.html
Googling the word Pönttöuuni should yield more results
I'm going to look into this more. Thank you. this is very interesting to me.
@@1873Winchester Looks efficient! Btw, LLP=5.5m2 means heat exchange surface area. I have similar fireplace still in use from 1928, although it does not have the secondary air channel.
@@1873Winchester Thankyou for sharing links very interesting, loved looking at the design. especially the fresh air port leading directly up in the fire chamber. I didn't see the couple implementing that feature which I imagine would be hard to do in the version they built. But I would like to encourage people to emulate as it makes the fire hotter. I think that's way it is in the plan, but I could be wrong, lol. Nice vid Grain, loved the little bricks. It would be great to see a full working miniature fire place plus infrared video.
Very good demonstration, but it would be nice to have additional explanations, perhaps as subtitles.
Agree, I'm not sure I would consider this a "How it works" demonstration. It's simply a cutaway demonstration. Very useful for explaining, but the video is lacking that key "Explanation part". I do appreciate the demonstration tho. Great work.
@@FailedFace Yeah, I don’t understand the benefits of this over a straight chimney
@@pigcatapult with no other explanation I would guess that this is used so the bricks in the chimney collects more heat to radiate into the home.
I actually thought this was a pizza over the whole time
In a normal stove with straight chimney, cold air from the chimney will freeze the stove almost immediately when the fire is done burning. With this stove, cold air is blocked by the syphon, which is filled with hot smoke. The stove stays warm much longer.
I have watched this at least five times. I am a big fan of masonry heating and finally installed one in my home.
Can we use this as an oven ?
Santa Claus didn't like this model.😂
Which is why, here in Finland Joulupukki ("santa") would just use the door like normal people.
Great demo, I’ve built a few fireplaces in my time and I can see how this would reduce down draft problems, particularly with a short stack. I’m assuming once the bricks heated up, the draft would be very strong and the thermal mass would continue to radiate heat.
There are clinker bricks around the main chamber, to accumulate the heat.
thats why this isnt actually the best demonstration - he didnt preheat the stack using the top gate. Thats pretty important where extreme temps happen, the smoke wont even push out of the stack if the temp was below zero celsius, not without smoking out the cabin.
@michaellebert8907 that was my only concern but I can see how well it would work once heated
I would have to imagine the "cleaning access" door would be great for smoker-style cooking as well.
Cleaning of the Russian stoves is done only occasionally, by removing two strategically placed bricks in the structure. Chimneys and stoves are often painted white to make it easy to spot any dangerous leakage.
What a cute and amazingly clear demonstration!! I imagine something similar is going on in old cast iron stoves.
Great demonstration but not sure of the purpose of a brick oven like that. What is the advantage?
These ovens are built for heating homes. When hot gases are moved on a long path they transfer more heat to the oven, instead of wasting it outside.
@@Boris-Vasiliev Most of the heat in a regular modern fireplace is sucked straight out of the chimney.
This design uses more surface area to absorb heat from the smoke and radiate it through the brick inside the house! :)
idk, been trying to figure out whereabouts exactly do i place the food to cook ! .... title did said " heating brick OVEN " .....
@@robozstarrr8930 Maybe english is not his native language. There are similar designs for both heating and cooking. They are ususally made with a bypass for summer time, to direct smoke straight out of the chimney.
@@robozstarrr8930 you'd place the food on the top shelf. the bottom two are for the fuel/ash.
Отличная демонстрация! Хоть и в миниатюре, но весьма полезный материал отсняли. Огромное вам спасибо!
Спасибо! Идею подсмотрел у Владимира Вишнякова - th-cam.com/video/NgFROrtpmks/w-d-xo.html
@@grain-diose И за это видео - тоже спасибо.
@@TheNavi1982 Кстати, он делает такие контрукторы печей на заказ, там где-то есть его контакты.
Wow this is the most straight forward direct visual explanation of the basics of that type of woodstove/heater.
I've been wanting to build my own new replacement for the old crappy 1970s funnel fireplace my dad built in when I was a kid, its terribly inefficient. Its cool looking but wastes so much heat.
I've just really been interested in these when I had them featured in a magazine I was getting back several years ago.
I used a similar type of stove in Russia. There were two dampers, both open to start the fire. Once it was going and the chimney was warm, the lower one was closed. When all the wood was burned (usually in less than an hour) we closed all inlets and the chimney damper. Then the whole structure heated up and kept the house warm for about 12 hours. I would like to have seen an explanation of how that worked.
Thanks Grain. Quality demonstration done w/dignity.
Thanks...now I want tiny bricks and a miniature trowel.
miniature trowel i made myself, mini bricks are on aliexpress - aliexpress.com/item/1005007485102761.html
Great job. Such an innovative idea to illustrate how masonry wood heater work without words. I wonder where a good place could be to drill a bunch of holes to combust the smoke.
That secondary air needs to be preheated, otherwise it cools the gasses below their flash point. I have a woodburning furnace that runs the incoming air through metal tubes in the firebox before releasing it through many tiny holes in tubes across the top of the firebox. When burning, they look just like the jets in a gas furnace. So to answer your question, an additional layer of brick could be stacked to form an envelope around the firebox, with narrow gaps along the top of the firebox. These channels would be closed when the firebox is first lit, to prevent downdrafting smoke away from the chimney, then opened once a good draw and flame is established.
How to increase the combustion chamber temperature for the cleanest most efficient burn? Take the heat out of the system outside the combustion area, that is, in the exhaust pathway. Best to insulate the combustion chamber, and perhaps it’ll even require pre-gasification of the fuel. Aim for blue flame in a small combustion chamber and a long heat removal path to combine good burn with good heat extraction. Key is not sucking the heat away from the combustion chamber walls.
This is a great few steps in the right direction. Congratulations and thank you.
I am burning wood in a similar setup. Would you keep next days logs near the oven, for a 24 hour preheating?
@@skakpedersenI put mine on the thermal mass, drives any moisture out
@@906MediaProductions Thank you very much!
@@skakpedersen That is why old fireplaces normally had a compartment for storing a bit of wood right alongside them: you'd fire the place and then get wood for the next burn which would be nice and dry before it is needed.
This is relatively easy in masonry fireplaces... The brick is usually not too thermally conductive so it would allow fire to reach fairly high temperatures. In fireplaces that are made out of metal the burn chamber is usually insulated with brick or some other ceramic.
One important factor to consider is the fact that once you do have a bed of charcoal, primary air fed through the grate is basically going to regulate the temperature of the coalbed and as such the rate of gasification. This is why secondary air is a necessity and according to L. D. Porta the ideal ratio between primary and secondary air is around 20/80%
L. D. Porta worked on steam locomotives during the end part of the steam era, and in my opinion his works are interesting to basically anyone interested in burning solid fuels, or locomotives. He was one of the few locomotive designers to apply scientific principles and methods to locomotive design... It is a bit sad that all he got to work with was making modifications to already existing locomotives. But to the very end he did dream of making new locomotive.
you are the man! I hope to see more of your work here on TH-cam. Thanks!
Thanks for this neat demonstration of the airflow characteristics of a proper oven, as well as demonstrating how to assemble one. : - )
Да,,,,,КПД 💯 процентов ,по Вашей конструкции смело можно делать дачный вариант печи, Спасибо!!!!!
Those tiny bricks are the cutest 😂
Very effective demonstration!
Cool!
This is great for learning about the how the oven works. Can't wait to check out your other videos!
I don't need it but I'm so gonna make it this summer. It's been years since TH-cam suggested something so fun and informative that made me wanna do it myself.
You got yourself a sub.
Curious, what are you going to use it for, a dollhouse?
Thank you for the inspiration!
Theoretically one can make a pizza/roasting/baking oven, smoker and wood heater all-in-one.
Fantastic Stanislav! Thank You from New York!
Now I finally understand these things, thanks for the effort!
Great little model. So what is the advantage of the s channel in the ducting? Why not just go straight up? Does that capture more heat in the house with this style?
The bricks absorb the heat from the smoke. It becomes a thermal mass which will radiate the heat even after the fire goes out. The long path allows better heat absorption than a straight shot.
Check out thermal mass rocket stoves. There is no smoke one the stove gets going, and no heat is wasted out the chimney.
Inspiring me to build miniature stoves, built a simpleone out of aluminium can in 1/13 scale today - It worked!
such a lovely demonstration.
Very cool! Please do more designs!
Thanks to this video, i now understand that a three channel oven works by smoke go up down up. Or sometimes, not
can you retain the smoke somehow?
For heat and for smoking food or fermenting alchohol?
Make a smoke filled space behind the three layers
so the cold smoke falls down?
This looks really cool, idk what I just learned though. Something special happen with making the smoke maze around instead of going straight out?
It's for traping the heat apparently
My grandfather had one of these and he smoked hams in the top channel on a grill.
Interesting & nice demonstration.Thank you 👍
Didn't your mother told you to not play with fire?! LOL 😂 😂
Awesome demonstration. Love the scale model. Cheers
Неслабо вы заморочились! :) Отличный демонстратор получился
Good that it shows condensation in the chimney. That’s where old log burners leave creosote and tar I believe.
Thank you for your greatest visual statement!
Imagine burying those smoke routes horizontally under the floor of the house. That's ondol, a Korean traditional heating system. We cannot enjoy fire indoor but the house is nice and warm even from your feet. I can imagine your demonstration would be good too.
Great, but how do you clean the soot from the further vertical parts? Would it be possible?
The backmost channel would have access at the top. Buildup is pushed down into the chamber.
How do you clean the internal chimney? Watching the soot build up just in that small demo makes me wonder how you prevent chimney fires in a full sized one.
You use a brush like a normal chimney. The back one you clean upwards from the burn chamber, then the cleanout door above the burn chamber for the horizontal section, and from the top of the chimney for the tall section.
Very cool! Can you make a version that illustrates an oven with secondary combustion chamber?
Thank goodness for the comments. From the video alone it just looked like a complicated way to get smoke up a chimney.
Thank you for this video. Very interesting design, wish my fireplace had been built like this. Subscribed.
Very COoL (or hot depending:) Back in the 60's they use to fear the 'draft'. But it look pretty sweet to me. I love that you even have a tiny tool too - oh, my bad Cheers from So.CA.USA 2nd House On the Left.
Cool, can you show case a soot fire in the chimney?
Those mini bricks are cute. Did you make them yourself? Ideal for your demonstration. I will try this at home.
I hope using my son's Lego bricks won't be a problem.
No, I bought it on Aliexpress - aliexpress.com/item/1005007485102761.html
These bricks are like real ones, made of clay and fired.
But if you want to seriously do this, you can make it from plaster, there are many videos on TH-cam - th-cam.com/video/mtyIN10BGPY/w-d-xo.html
Tiny demo great educational post !
Never before seen!
Miniature Flames, how did he do that?
This design makes for more thoughts.
Great! I am still wondered. What would be happended if we do not close the furnace chamber while burning ?
I think there will be a lot of draft and a lot of heat will go into the pipe.
You did a really amazing work! I couldn't help myself but subscribe to your channel for this great illustration using a real miniatur demo!
I expected that the small upperclean out door was actually used to Start the airflow and proper draft as you then beging the fire below... Nice job!
Would like to see other designs, like down exhaust to a bed/stratification Chamber... and then exit smoke from the floor...!?
I think it is a place to put a baking oven.
I like this but. Where do you put the dough in?
This stove is designed to heat your home more efficiently. For cooking, no one bothers to make an appropriate design.
I wonder if a double fire can burn the smoke and gasses of the first one.
Of course, such stoves have been made and sold for a long time.
I love your video, this convinced me to make this my hobby.
I am not a smart man. Is this an improvement over a straight chimney?
The model is a lot of fun to watch, but can someone pls explain what the problem with a just one-channel chimney would be? I'm a profane who comes from a rather warm place. Thanks in advance!
The extra length of the channel allows the bricks more time to absorb the heat from the fire. That means you don't need to burn as much fuel to warm your house.
@@ThePatricHalldin Thank you!
very nice video but why a 3 channel chimney? Why not just 1 channel?
So that the furnace body warms up more and gives off heat to the house.
How do you clean around the bends?
"grain" - thanks so much for sharing this
Miniature that functions...means tomorrow one big normal stove,functioning perfect!👏
Beautiful!
Thanks for sharing 👍
This is both adorable _and_ educational!
that was incredibly helpful, thank you.
Is there a benefit to this design over a common wood stove?
Muito interessante. Obrigado pela aula!
Thank you so much for this!
Fellow, you got a whole lot of spare time on your hands. Smoke gets out. What valuable information.
So this was only used for heating and not cooking as well?
Awesome! Many thanks.
Nice! Does the first part get hot enough to auto-ignite the exhaust gases, as a rocket stove does?
I heat part of my house with something similar like this. Heat moves first up then down through four channels then moving to the chimney. Once you heat it up and keep it warm it will keep the heat in the wall for several hours, it don't need too much fire per day. It is like a radiant heater but bigger. I even went to meet the old man whose family was making those since early 1900, he gave me drawings about how it works, it was patented. Pretty advance system fire turns in some kind of extreme hot fire, don't know what it is called in English.
simple but good demo... nice it shows how the waterdroplets form in the chimney
Wait.....why was there water droplets in the chimney? That makes no sense to me, but it seems to make sense to you
@@donperegrine922 They would not be there normally I guess. This is only moisture from the heated air, condensating on the colder glass plate
@@TotoMacFrame I guess I don't have a good intuition for condensation. I thought the cold glass would have to be colder than room temperature.
Or otherwise, the hot air to have more water than the cold air.
Do normal brick chimneys or fireplaces ever get condensation, while the brick is cold?
@@donperegrine922 Rule of thumb is: the warmer the air, the more moisture it can carry. When warm and humid air gets cooled, it cannot hold on to the humidity and the water "falls out" the air, resulting in fogged up windows in the winter, or in fogged up windows in the car when you breathe much in winter before the heating works fully. The air basically gets rid of all the water it cannot carry any longer when it cools down, e.g. by touching a cold surface. This surface basically only has to be cooler than the air to let this happen. Cooking pot with glas lid? Lid gets condensated, since the hot air from the pot cools down on the cooler lid. Those droplets are still freaking hot though.
If this happens in a normal chimney is beyond my knowledge, but everything I know points towards "It should".
...wondering if the smoke can be reignited as is escaping out the last channel.and produce extra heat?
Also if a free-rotation fan(turbine effect) can be at the base or beginning of the first channel, as if to produce a directional fire up the channels, and generate higher temperatures?
Good video, Grain.
I don’t know about the fan, but the first has been around for a long time. This is called a "gas afterburner", for sale metal stoves almost all are made this way, but many people also put it out of bricks. In Russian it is called a bell-type stove.
@@grain-diose I understand the concept's age, I am saying again, "incorporate in the design these new features" , meaning wondering if the smoke can be reignited as is escaping out the last channel and produce extra heat.
Will you make another video incorporating these features?
@@steveaspen6773 Yes, it is quite possible if there is interest and a lot of views.
@@grain-diose you won't know unless you make another video. Best wishes.
What is the main advantage? The smoke cannot get back and disturb a clean combustion?
Very good sir. Thank you so much.
El aire frio jamas dificulta el funcionamiento perfecto el plano❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
I am completely lost as to what point this video is trying to make about this furnace design.
Is the point of this design to capture more of the heat from the fire for heating the building, or is it more about controlling smoke? How would this funace be positioned in the home? (Answered by possibly including some existing or historical examples of this furnace in the real world.)
What are the limits on the length of the center "downward" channel? I assume that it does not work if it is either too short or too long.
Adding some thermal imagery might also have been helpful, along with a side by side comparison to a straight chimney furnace, or whatever the cimpeting design was.
I totaly understand the artistic design of the video itself. I would be totally happy to read the explanation in the video description or a pinned comment.
Oh, there's a cleaning door. My initial thought was to ask about that.
Is there a way to buy or produce those bricks in large quantities. This seems like something fun to make with kids.
Отлично! Только будет кто делать тоочную часть.Нужно выложить из шамотного кирпича, чтоб не прогорел красный кирпич.
Nice demonstration. Do you not have sticks where you are from? Lol
Stunning! Great work!
Et pour le ramonage de la cheminée, comment faites-vous ? - And for chimney sweeping, how do you do it ?
Great model, great video. Thx!
This was very well done. Thank you.
You could use the bottom as the coal area, middle as cooking area, and top as a smoker right?
So what does it do other than make the smoke go different directions? What's the purpose?
Would it make sense to pass air through the flames and into the duct to try and burn the smoke? I know paper produce alot o smoke so it might not be possible with regular fuel, but it would be cool!
(Or rather, lit 😎)
This is really cool, Grain would please add a air pipe with port holes and a vavle to the bottom of the second bend, once its hot you should beable to achieve some secondary burning of the flue gas.
look at the pot style waste oil burner videos , they have a air pipe and blue flames come off the fresh air jets. i think with some restriction on the opening , the draft should pull air in the sujested air pipe
I see the multi-pass chimney, but where is the oven? Where do you put the pies and bread?
Very cool !! I mean very hot and efficient
Объём второго оборота должен быть больше первого.
Ну а так очень забавно получилось 👍
Согласен с вами. Чем шире спуск, тем больше горячих газов в печке. Получится колпаковая печь.
I apologize for not reading everyone's questions and answers but aside from that my question is how do you clean the creosote out of the cavities or is the temperature so hot that there is no creosote buildup?
Seems that the flame going up the back flue would increase risk of chimney fires. I also am curious how one would clean out debris including ash and soon at the bottom of the chimney.
What part is the oven?
How do you clean it to prevent chimney fires?