Great demo....and thanks for putting no commentary or music in the background. The hum and noises of you putting everything together is the best soundtrack.
Had one of those at our family home when I was a kid, was rebuilt multiple times over the years to breathe new life into it and give it a good clean. Seeing a cross section of it in action is truly taking me back
I was having thoughts about how cleaning the chimney soot could be a problem but it would sure cut down on so much of the wasted heat from a straight up chimney .
@peterjol Generally speaking, masonry stoves like this are designed to burn wood really efficiently, in a short period of time, rather than over time like a cast-iron stove. This results in dramatically less build-up inside the chimney, so cleaning is less of a problem!
@@peterjol you didn't notice the sooot trap clean out! or you don't like the idea of having to pull the soot into the house!? ash vacume? you could even reverse the flow so that the cleanout is out side!
Agree, I'm not sure I would consider this a "How it works" demonstration. It's simply a cutaway demonstration. Very useful for explaining, but the video is lacking that key "Explanation part". I do appreciate the demonstration tho. Great work.
In a normal stove with straight chimney, cold air from the chimney will freeze the stove almost immediately when the fire is done burning. With this stove, cold air is blocked by the syphon, which is filled with hot smoke. The stove stays warm much longer.
The swedes use a 5-channel design. The finns as well though in later years they modernized the masonry heater with a free standing core that was not physically connected to the walls. This had many advantages and prevented stress from thermal movement. They also got rid of the traditional tiles and used metal exteriors, thin sheet metal, even copper. This was far superior to tile and the whole heater can be fired to higher temperatures than the traditional tile based ones who would crack and leak if burned too hard. Finnish designs from the 1940s also incorporated secondary air.
@@JDeWittDIY Here you can see a drawing i.imgur.com/xmGIRIm.jpg And here you can see a small one being built eevuli.blogspot.com/2015/05/ponttouunin-muuraus.html Googling the word Pönttöuuni should yield more results
@@1873Winchester Looks efficient! Btw, LLP=5.5m2 means heat exchange surface area. I have similar fireplace still in use from 1928, although it does not have the secondary air channel.
@@1873Winchester Thankyou for sharing links very interesting, loved looking at the design. especially the fresh air port leading directly up in the fire chamber. I didn't see the couple implementing that feature which I imagine would be hard to do in the version they built. But I would like to encourage people to emulate as it makes the fire hotter. I think that's way it is in the plan, but I could be wrong, lol. Nice vid Grain, loved the little bricks. It would be great to see a full working miniature fire place plus infrared video.
Cleaning of the Russian stoves is done only occasionally, by removing two strategically placed bricks in the structure. Chimneys and stoves are often painted white to make it easy to spot any dangerous leakage.
Great demo, I’ve built a few fireplaces in my time and I can see how this would reduce down draft problems, particularly with a short stack. I’m assuming once the bricks heated up, the draft would be very strong and the thermal mass would continue to radiate heat.
thats why this isnt actually the best demonstration - he didnt preheat the stack using the top gate. Thats pretty important where extreme temps happen, the smoke wont even push out of the stack if the temp was below zero celsius, not without smoking out the cabin.
Wow this is the most straight forward direct visual explanation of the basics of that type of woodstove/heater. I've been wanting to build my own new replacement for the old crappy 1970s funnel fireplace my dad built in when I was a kid, its terribly inefficient. Its cool looking but wastes so much heat. I've just really been interested in these when I had them featured in a magazine I was getting back several years ago.
I used a similar type of stove in Russia. There were two dampers, both open to start the fire. Once it was going and the chimney was warm, the lower one was closed. When all the wood was burned (usually in less than an hour) we closed all inlets and the chimney damper. Then the whole structure heated up and kept the house warm for about 12 hours. I would like to have seen an explanation of how that worked.
How to increase the combustion chamber temperature for the cleanest most efficient burn? Take the heat out of the system outside the combustion area, that is, in the exhaust pathway. Best to insulate the combustion chamber, and perhaps it’ll even require pre-gasification of the fuel. Aim for blue flame in a small combustion chamber and a long heat removal path to combine good burn with good heat extraction. Key is not sucking the heat away from the combustion chamber walls. This is a great few steps in the right direction. Congratulations and thank you.
@@skakpedersen That is why old fireplaces normally had a compartment for storing a bit of wood right alongside them: you'd fire the place and then get wood for the next burn which would be nice and dry before it is needed.
Great job. Such an innovative idea to illustrate how masonry wood heater work without words. I wonder where a good place could be to drill a bunch of holes to combust the smoke.
That secondary air needs to be preheated, otherwise it cools the gasses below their flash point. I have a woodburning furnace that runs the incoming air through metal tubes in the firebox before releasing it through many tiny holes in tubes across the top of the firebox. When burning, they look just like the jets in a gas furnace. So to answer your question, an additional layer of brick could be stacked to form an envelope around the firebox, with narrow gaps along the top of the firebox. These channels would be closed when the firebox is first lit, to prevent downdrafting smoke away from the chimney, then opened once a good draw and flame is established.
I don't need it but I'm so gonna make it this summer. It's been years since TH-cam suggested something so fun and informative that made me wanna do it myself. You got yourself a sub.
@@user-dv5ts3de8e Most of the heat in a regular modern fireplace is sucked straight out of the chimney. This design uses more surface area to absorb heat from the smoke and radiate it through the brick inside the house! :)
@@robozstarrr8930 Maybe english is not his native language. There are similar designs for both heating and cooking. They are ususally made with a bypass for summer time, to direct smoke straight out of the chimney.
Very COoL (or hot depending:) Back in the 60's they use to fear the 'draft'. But it look pretty sweet to me. I love that you even have a tiny tool too - oh, my bad Cheers from So.CA.USA 2nd House On the Left.
@@TotoMacFrame I guess I don't have a good intuition for condensation. I thought the cold glass would have to be colder than room temperature. Or otherwise, the hot air to have more water than the cold air. Do normal brick chimneys or fireplaces ever get condensation, while the brick is cold?
@@donperegrine922 Rule of thumb is: the warmer the air, the more moisture it can carry. When warm and humid air gets cooled, it cannot hold on to the humidity and the water "falls out" the air, resulting in fogged up windows in the winter, or in fogged up windows in the car when you breathe much in winter before the heating works fully. The air basically gets rid of all the water it cannot carry any longer when it cools down, e.g. by touching a cold surface. This surface basically only has to be cooler than the air to let this happen. Cooking pot with glas lid? Lid gets condensated, since the hot air from the pot cools down on the cooler lid. Those droplets are still freaking hot though. If this happens in a normal chimney is beyond my knowledge, but everything I know points towards "It should".
Imagine burying those smoke routes horizontally under the floor of the house. That's ondol, a Korean traditional heating system. We cannot enjoy fire indoor but the house is nice and warm even from your feet. I can imagine your demonstration would be good too.
Great little model. So what is the advantage of the s channel in the ducting? Why not just go straight up? Does that capture more heat in the house with this style?
The bricks absorb the heat from the smoke. It becomes a thermal mass which will radiate the heat even after the fire goes out. The long path allows better heat absorption than a straight shot. Check out thermal mass rocket stoves. There is no smoke one the stove gets going, and no heat is wasted out the chimney.
I expected that the small upperclean out door was actually used to Start the airflow and proper draft as you then beging the fire below... Nice job! Would like to see other designs, like down exhaust to a bed/stratification Chamber... and then exit smoke from the floor...!?
How do you clean the internal chimney? Watching the soot build up just in that small demo makes me wonder how you prevent chimney fires in a full sized one.
You use a brush like a normal chimney. The back one you clean upwards from the burn chamber, then the cleanout door above the burn chamber for the horizontal section, and from the top of the chimney for the tall section.
At first I wasn't sure just what this demo was, I thought it was some full scale thing. With a bit of a secondary air inlet, this could be an excellent demo of that design.
Buena demostración. Ahora en verano se podrá asar unas sardinas en ese invento jajajaja...saludos amigo. Хорошая демонстрация. Теперь летом в этом изобретении можно поджарить сардины, хахахаха ... привет друг.
Oh, there's a cleaning door. My initial thought was to ask about that. Is there a way to buy or produce those bricks in large quantities. This seems like something fun to make with kids.
This is really cool, Grain would please add a air pipe with port holes and a vavle to the bottom of the second bend, once its hot you should beable to achieve some secondary burning of the flue gas.
look at the pot style waste oil burner videos , they have a air pipe and blue flames come off the fresh air jets. i think with some restriction on the opening , the draft should pull air in the sujested air pipe
I now get how to make one. How does it work though? Well, heat rises, so I get that much. But I guess I'm not following what the benefit is to the S bend. How does that works better than going straight up like a normal chimney? I know more about it now but also am somehow more confused at the same time...lol.
Would it make sense to pass air through the flames and into the duct to try and burn the smoke? I know paper produce alot o smoke so it might not be possible with regular fuel, but it would be cool! (Or rather, lit 😎)
How has no one noticed that this man is a giant?
jajajaja good one!
A giant man made a micro oven 😅
Don't you mean HOUS (Human Of Unusual Size)?
No no, you have it all wrong. The brick oven is just far away.
@@grain8314 giant man made a human sized oven
Great demo....and thanks for putting no commentary or music in the background. The hum and noises of you putting everything together is the best soundtrack.
Well said!
Some commentary could be nice, but yes
@@goury yeah I agree, the title mentions "How a three-channel heating brick oven works" but adds no commentary on what effect these 3 channels have
I loved it until I heard the eerie ghost screams of the damned in that smoke zoom 😅
How cute are those tiny bricks!
Yeah and he only charges £500 a day and only takes about 2 years to build your house
Not cute enough, I saw cutier
And not a single peace of theory....🤷? How that could be good for anyone?
Nah he just big
Had one of those at our family home when I was a kid, was rebuilt multiple times over the years to breathe new life into it and give it a good clean. Seeing a cross section of it in action is truly taking me back
I was having thoughts about how cleaning the chimney soot could be a problem but it would sure cut down on so much of the wasted heat from a straight up chimney .
@peterjol Generally speaking, masonry stoves like this are designed to burn wood really efficiently, in a short period of time, rather than over time like a cast-iron stove. This results in dramatically less build-up inside the chimney, so cleaning is less of a problem!
@@peterjol you didn't notice the sooot trap clean out! or you don't like the idea of having to pull the soot into the house!? ash vacume? you could even reverse the flow so that the cleanout is out side!
The most polite and civilized comment section i've ever seen.
Stay awesome
Challenge accepted!
;-)
I say, Sir! It is quite refreshing! *1876 grumble* Quite.
My girl is usually pretty chill and civilized when she smokes too 😅
Very good demonstration, but it would be nice to have additional explanations, perhaps as subtitles.
Agree, I'm not sure I would consider this a "How it works" demonstration. It's simply a cutaway demonstration. Very useful for explaining, but the video is lacking that key "Explanation part". I do appreciate the demonstration tho. Great work.
@@FailedFace Yeah, I don’t understand the benefits of this over a straight chimney
@@pigcatapult with no other explanation I would guess that this is used so the bricks in the chimney collects more heat to radiate into the home.
I actually thought this was a pizza over the whole time
In a normal stove with straight chimney, cold air from the chimney will freeze the stove almost immediately when the fire is done burning. With this stove, cold air is blocked by the syphon, which is filled with hot smoke. The stove stays warm much longer.
Good Demonstration and No Music.Thanks.
Santa Claus didn't like this model.😂
The swedes use a 5-channel design. The finns as well though in later years they modernized the masonry heater with a free standing core that was not physically connected to the walls. This had many advantages and prevented stress from thermal movement. They also got rid of the traditional tiles and used metal exteriors, thin sheet metal, even copper. This was far superior to tile and the whole heater can be fired to higher temperatures than the traditional tile based ones who would crack and leak if burned too hard. Finnish designs from the 1940s also incorporated secondary air.
Do you have an example of an improved Finnish design?
@@JDeWittDIY Here you can see a drawing i.imgur.com/xmGIRIm.jpg
And here you can see a small one being built eevuli.blogspot.com/2015/05/ponttouunin-muuraus.html
Googling the word Pönttöuuni should yield more results
I'm going to look into this more. Thank you. this is very interesting to me.
@@1873Winchester Looks efficient! Btw, LLP=5.5m2 means heat exchange surface area. I have similar fireplace still in use from 1928, although it does not have the secondary air channel.
@@1873Winchester Thankyou for sharing links very interesting, loved looking at the design. especially the fresh air port leading directly up in the fire chamber. I didn't see the couple implementing that feature which I imagine would be hard to do in the version they built. But I would like to encourage people to emulate as it makes the fire hotter. I think that's way it is in the plan, but I could be wrong, lol. Nice vid Grain, loved the little bricks. It would be great to see a full working miniature fire place plus infrared video.
Thanks...now I want tiny bricks and a miniature trowel.
aliexpress.com/item/1005003209978461.html
I would have to imagine the "cleaning access" door would be great for smoker-style cooking as well.
Cleaning of the Russian stoves is done only occasionally, by removing two strategically placed bricks in the structure. Chimneys and stoves are often painted white to make it easy to spot any dangerous leakage.
Great demo, I’ve built a few fireplaces in my time and I can see how this would reduce down draft problems, particularly with a short stack. I’m assuming once the bricks heated up, the draft would be very strong and the thermal mass would continue to radiate heat.
There are clinker bricks around the main chamber, to accumulate the heat.
thats why this isnt actually the best demonstration - he didnt preheat the stack using the top gate. Thats pretty important where extreme temps happen, the smoke wont even push out of the stack if the temp was below zero celsius, not without smoking out the cabin.
@michaellebert8907 that was my only concern but I can see how well it would work once heated
Cool!
This is great for learning about the how the oven works. Can't wait to check out your other videos!
Thanks Grain. Quality demonstration done w/dignity.
Fantastic Stanislav! Thank You from New York!
you are the man! I hope to see more of your work here on TH-cam. Thanks!
Thanks for this neat demonstration of the airflow characteristics of a proper oven, as well as demonstrating how to assemble one. : - )
Wow this is the most straight forward direct visual explanation of the basics of that type of woodstove/heater.
I've been wanting to build my own new replacement for the old crappy 1970s funnel fireplace my dad built in when I was a kid, its terribly inefficient. Its cool looking but wastes so much heat.
I've just really been interested in these when I had them featured in a magazine I was getting back several years ago.
Those tiny bricks are the cutest 😂
Very effective demonstration!
such a lovely demonstration.
Неслабо вы заморочились! :) Отличный демонстратор получился
Да,,,,,КПД 💯 процентов ,по Вашей конструкции смело можно делать дачный вариант печи, Спасибо!!!!!
Interesting & nice demonstration.Thank you 👍
Отличная демонстрация! Хоть и в миниатюре, но весьма полезный материал отсняли. Огромное вам спасибо!
Спасибо! Идею подсмотрел у Владимира Вишнякова - th-cam.com/video/NgFROrtpmks/w-d-xo.html
@@grain8314 И за это видео - тоже спасибо.
@@TheNavi1982 Кстати, он делает такие контрукторы печей на заказ, там где-то есть его контакты.
Thank you for this video. Very interesting design, wish my fireplace had been built like this. Subscribed.
Thank you for your greatest visual statement!
You did a really amazing work! I couldn't help myself but subscribe to your channel for this great illustration using a real miniatur demo!
Now I finally understand these things, thanks for the effort!
Very cool! Please do more designs!
amazing demonstration.
My grandfather had one of these and he smoked hams in the top channel on a grill.
I used a similar type of stove in Russia. There were two dampers, both open to start the fire. Once it was going and the chimney was warm, the lower one was closed. When all the wood was burned (usually in less than an hour) we closed all inlets and the chimney damper. Then the whole structure heated up and kept the house warm for about 12 hours. I would like to have seen an explanation of how that worked.
How to increase the combustion chamber temperature for the cleanest most efficient burn? Take the heat out of the system outside the combustion area, that is, in the exhaust pathway. Best to insulate the combustion chamber, and perhaps it’ll even require pre-gasification of the fuel. Aim for blue flame in a small combustion chamber and a long heat removal path to combine good burn with good heat extraction. Key is not sucking the heat away from the combustion chamber walls.
This is a great few steps in the right direction. Congratulations and thank you.
I am burning wood in a similar setup. Would you keep next days logs near the oven, for a 24 hour preheating?
@@skakpedersenI put mine on the thermal mass, drives any moisture out
@@906MediaProductions Thank you very much!
@@skakpedersen That is why old fireplaces normally had a compartment for storing a bit of wood right alongside them: you'd fire the place and then get wood for the next burn which would be nice and dry before it is needed.
Great job. Such an innovative idea to illustrate how masonry wood heater work without words. I wonder where a good place could be to drill a bunch of holes to combust the smoke.
That secondary air needs to be preheated, otherwise it cools the gasses below their flash point. I have a woodburning furnace that runs the incoming air through metal tubes in the firebox before releasing it through many tiny holes in tubes across the top of the firebox. When burning, they look just like the jets in a gas furnace. So to answer your question, an additional layer of brick could be stacked to form an envelope around the firebox, with narrow gaps along the top of the firebox. These channels would be closed when the firebox is first lit, to prevent downdrafting smoke away from the chimney, then opened once a good draw and flame is established.
Beautiful!
Thanks for sharing 👍
that was incredibly helpful, thank you.
I love your video, this convinced me to make this my hobby.
Thanks to this video, i now understand that a three channel oven works by smoke go up down up. Or sometimes, not
Stunning! Great work!
Good that it shows condensation in the chimney. That’s where old log burners leave creosote and tar I believe.
Didn't your mother told you to not play with fire?! LOL 😂 😂
Awesome demonstration. Love the scale model. Cheers
I don't need it but I'm so gonna make it this summer. It's been years since TH-cam suggested something so fun and informative that made me wanna do it myself.
You got yourself a sub.
Curious, what are you going to use it for, a dollhouse?
This is both adorable _and_ educational!
"grain" - thanks so much for sharing this
Great demonstration but not sure of the purpose of a brick oven like that. What is the advantage?
These ovens are built for heating homes. When hot gases are moved on a long path they transfer more heat to the oven, instead of wasting it outside.
@@user-dv5ts3de8e Most of the heat in a regular modern fireplace is sucked straight out of the chimney.
This design uses more surface area to absorb heat from the smoke and radiate it through the brick inside the house! :)
idk, been trying to figure out whereabouts exactly do i place the food to cook ! .... title did said " heating brick OVEN " .....
@@robozstarrr8930 Maybe english is not his native language. There are similar designs for both heating and cooking. They are ususally made with a bypass for summer time, to direct smoke straight out of the chimney.
@@robozstarrr8930 you'd place the food on the top shelf. the bottom two are for the fuel/ash.
Very COoL (or hot depending:) Back in the 60's they use to fear the 'draft'. But it look pretty sweet to me. I love that you even have a tiny tool too - oh, my bad Cheers from So.CA.USA 2nd House On the Left.
Miniature that functions...means tomorrow one big normal stove,functioning perfect!👏
This was very well done. Thank you.
This looks really cool, idk what I just learned though. Something special happen with making the smoke maze around instead of going straight out?
It's for traping the heat apparently
simple but good demo... nice it shows how the waterdroplets form in the chimney
Wait.....why was there water droplets in the chimney? That makes no sense to me, but it seems to make sense to you
@@donperegrine922 They would not be there normally I guess. This is only moisture from the heated air, condensating on the colder glass plate
@@TotoMacFrame I guess I don't have a good intuition for condensation. I thought the cold glass would have to be colder than room temperature.
Or otherwise, the hot air to have more water than the cold air.
Do normal brick chimneys or fireplaces ever get condensation, while the brick is cold?
@@donperegrine922 Rule of thumb is: the warmer the air, the more moisture it can carry. When warm and humid air gets cooled, it cannot hold on to the humidity and the water "falls out" the air, resulting in fogged up windows in the winter, or in fogged up windows in the car when you breathe much in winter before the heating works fully. The air basically gets rid of all the water it cannot carry any longer when it cools down, e.g. by touching a cold surface. This surface basically only has to be cooler than the air to let this happen. Cooking pot with glas lid? Lid gets condensated, since the hot air from the pot cools down on the cooler lid. Those droplets are still freaking hot though.
If this happens in a normal chimney is beyond my knowledge, but everything I know points towards "It should".
Inspiring me to build miniature stoves, built a simpleone out of aluminium can in 1/13 scale today - It worked!
Thankyou!... very nicely done.
wow that was really neat!
Very cool! Can you make a version that illustrates an oven with secondary combustion chamber?
Excellent Video.
Respect....
This is the Coolest thing I have ever seen ❤️.
Thank you.
Good video, Grain.
Muito interessante. Obrigado pela aula!
Imagine burying those smoke routes horizontally under the floor of the house. That's ondol, a Korean traditional heating system. We cannot enjoy fire indoor but the house is nice and warm even from your feet. I can imagine your demonstration would be good too.
Amazing 👍🏻
Excelllent simply demo!
Nice video , got my attention now .
Awesome! Thanks 👏
this is genious, it keeps the cold air out, and lets smoke out too :O
How do you clean around the bends?
Great little model. So what is the advantage of the s channel in the ducting? Why not just go straight up? Does that capture more heat in the house with this style?
The bricks absorb the heat from the smoke. It becomes a thermal mass which will radiate the heat even after the fire goes out. The long path allows better heat absorption than a straight shot.
Check out thermal mass rocket stoves. There is no smoke one the stove gets going, and no heat is wasted out the chimney.
Brilliant....well done.....
I expected that the small upperclean out door was actually used to Start the airflow and proper draft as you then beging the fire below... Nice job!
Would like to see other designs, like down exhaust to a bed/stratification Chamber... and then exit smoke from the floor...!?
I think it is a place to put a baking oven.
Never before seen!
Miniature Flames, how did he do that?
This design makes for more thoughts.
How do you clean the internal chimney? Watching the soot build up just in that small demo makes me wonder how you prevent chimney fires in a full sized one.
You use a brush like a normal chimney. The back one you clean upwards from the burn chamber, then the cleanout door above the burn chamber for the horizontal section, and from the top of the chimney for the tall section.
Nice! Does the first part get hot enough to auto-ignite the exhaust gases, as a rocket stove does?
If you add four or five more layers of brick over the burn grate, you could add an oven
Now I want to build a model like this but with a secondary air inlet between the fire box & the bottom of the 'P' trap
.
At first I wasn't sure just what this demo was, I thought it was some full scale thing. With a bit of a secondary air inlet, this could be an excellent demo of that design.
That secondary air needs to be preheated, or all it does is recondense the volatiles.
Great, but how do you clean the soot from the further vertical parts? Would it be possible?
The backmost channel would have access at the top. Buildup is pushed down into the chamber.
Buena demostración. Ahora en verano se podrá asar unas sardinas en ese invento jajajaja...saludos amigo.
Хорошая демонстрация. Теперь летом в этом изобретении можно поджарить сардины, хахахаха ... привет друг.
This is just so cool.
So this was only used for heating and not cooking as well?
Отлично! Только будет кто делать тоочную часть.Нужно выложить из шамотного кирпича, чтоб не прогорел красный кирпич.
What did you use for the mortar, it seems darker than what I'm used to seeing.
Nice!
Mulțumesc mult
Excellent
Объём второго оборота должен быть больше первого.
Ну а так очень забавно получилось 👍
Согласен с вами. Чем шире спуск, тем больше горячих газов в печке. Получится колпаковая печь.
You could use the bottom as the coal area, middle as cooking area, and top as a smoker right?
Oh, there's a cleaning door. My initial thought was to ask about that.
Is there a way to buy or produce those bricks in large quantities. This seems like something fun to make with kids.
beautiful and enlighning.
This is really cool, Grain would please add a air pipe with port holes and a vavle to the bottom of the second bend, once its hot you should beable to achieve some secondary burning of the flue gas.
look at the pot style waste oil burner videos , they have a air pipe and blue flames come off the fresh air jets. i think with some restriction on the opening , the draft should pull air in the sujested air pipe
Great! I am still wondered. What would be happended if we do not close the furnace chamber while burning ?
I think there will be a lot of draft and a lot of heat will go into the pipe.
I now get how to make one. How does it work though? Well, heat rises, so I get that much. But I guess I'm not following what the benefit is to the S bend. How does that works better than going straight up like a normal chimney? I know more about it now but also am somehow more confused at the same time...lol.
Would it make sense to pass air through the flames and into the duct to try and burn the smoke? I know paper produce alot o smoke so it might not be possible with regular fuel, but it would be cool!
(Or rather, lit 😎)
Above satisfactory, outstanding demonstration. If smoke can be utilized by adding some burnings, literally let a smokeless burning...
Most excellent...
Is it called yhree channel because of the up, down, up pathway in the chimney? Or Because there are 3 openings?
Best bong i have ever seen
Bravos Mercie pour vidéo
It's a beautiful model of a brick rocket stove.
Bet this guy could make a sweet brick bong 😊
What part is the oven?
How do you clean it to prevent chimney fires?
How do you clean the chimney for such a design if implemented