3d Printer Bed levelling Method for beginners and pros (Quick and easy)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 พ.ค. 2024
- Are you struggling to get a good first layer? This can be the first problem beginners come across. There are many tutorials for how to level your bed. Many of them leave you with more adjustments still to do afterwards. This simple method will give you a near perfect first layer within minutes on any 3d printer.
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This is definitely the best leveling video, not leaving out any steps, no shouting, no loud music. After messing around for hours this video got me printing without any errors.
Great to hear!👍
Just applied this myself. It solved every problem I was having including adhesion.
Super happy!
Following up-- Wow! I just calibrated my e-steps and cleaned and adjusted the bed as-per your videos, and I'm currently printing the best first-layer I've seen since almost four years ago when my printer was new. Thanks again!
My go to bed levelling guide. I have it pretty much stored in my head, but I rarely have to level the bed so it's good to have a reminder that, yes Larry, it is like this!
Excellent explanation, very calm straight to the point and easy to follow.
This is the best bed-tramming video I've seen yet. It's the only one I've watched that even mentions spring tension prior to the adjustment and resetting the limit switch position, or that mentions the thickness of your feeler gauge and raising the nozzle height by that amount. Excellent.
What a great video. Easy to follow and the 0.1mm Z setting made all the difference. As soon as the next print started it just looked right and came off the bed at the end with the correct amount of pressure. Many thanks.
Hi Ricky I rewatched your video about the 0.1mm Z setting and it made sense the second time I watched it. It was a great video tutorial.
Thanks a lot for this video ! I wasn't able to level this bed and couldn't get why. Now I know, and everything is printing great !
This makes much more sense than other guides I've found, which have you tram the bed cold and just hope that it thermally expands by 0.1 mm. I happened to have feeler gauges from a tool kit, but intentionally raising it by a known distance, leveling to that, and then letting it go back to 0.0 is way more intuitive.
I was struggling so bad until I watched this video, thank you so much!
You deserve way more followers! You explained everything perfectly, with the knowledge to back it up. Thank you 🙏
Oh man, this is so so exciting!! Thank you for sharing this, I can't wait to try this!
Super-useful and easy to understand. I would've never figured this out with just the instructions supplied with the Ender 3 V2. Thank you very much.
I have had an ended 3 v2 sitting in my room for years unused because of how hard it was to level the bed on initial setup… this video helped me soooooo much! Thank you!
Thank you so much! This worked out really well and my prints are looking great! Very easy and made lots of sense. You gained my subscription.
I just printed the most beautiful first layer :) Thank you!
You’re the GOAT (greatest of all time), now I understand why my bed leveling process was so bad 😅
This is by far the best tramming video I've seen. So much so, that I believe Profesional Firmware's auto tramming not only follows the same logic (albeit automated), but gives exactly the same results: a nozzle that barely touches the bed when set to 0mm height.
Excellent tips. Thank you. The pace was a bit fast to absorb, and I had to "rewind" many times to get the key points. I really appreciate the help. Blessings.
This is by far the most helpful video on bed tramming. This had me up and running in no time after days of frustration. Thanks for the step by step instructions. Made a world of difference.
Great to hear, glad it helped
Had to watch twice because the concept was new to me. Don't understand why everyone else seems to end up with a 0.1 nozzle/bed gap when home is finally selected, and not a zero gap like yourself.
this is the only video that literally helped thank you sm
This is the BEST video about this on TH-cam. Thank YOU!
Ah awesome, thank you🙂
The center of my print bed is extremely tight once the corners are adjusted. Glad I found this guide
first time one of these vids made a specific note to watch the Z screw after the steppers are disabled, thank you!
Hope it helps👍
Thank you so much! This was very helpful as a very new beginner
Can't recommend this enough, did everything in the video and it took me all of 5 minutes to get a decent level print bed. the instructions were clear and I had no trouble following them. thanks! :)
Glad it helped. Thanks for the comment
Wow! What a great video. I am just setting up my Ender-3 S1 Pro. This is my first 3d printer. I was struggling with setting up the bed. You did a great job of clarifying how it should be done! Thanks!
No problem, this video might help you too with the ABL on the S1 Pro th-cam.com/video/zKpNxqWie_8/w-d-xo.html
Excellent, on the point what am I looking for. Easy to understand and inclusive some nice hints around it. Just fullfilled and it works perfectly, Thank You
Great, glad the video helped 👍
I found this video cause of your other video on leveling and let me tell you. This has been the best video on youtube on how to do this. I have never been able to get my ender 3 to be leveled properly and you helped me out so damn much. you got a new subscriber. thank you
I love these comments. It can be hard work at times making videos that don't get huge views but comments like yours make it all worth while putting in the extra effort. Thank you for taking the time to leave this message 👍
@@RickyImpey It has been a month since I replied and I'm still having fantastic first layers and amazing prints. Thank you again so much :D
@@JeremieDeWitt Awesome, people don't believe me when I say that my printers run for months without issue. When you take the time to get everything just right, they can run like clockwork. Thanks for taking the time to come back and leave another comment, I appreciate it 👍
This really dug me out a hole and stopped my Ender Pro crashing through the window. Recently changed to PETG and added a PEI as a mod bed and since then not one print was any use. You solved the issue thanks. Subbed and enjoy your coffees
Thanks very much 👍 Really great to hear how much a video helped someone.
Fantastic video as all the other videos I have seen you produce.
Just a quick note, make sure that when you look for feeler gauges that they are non-magnetic. The stainless steel ones on the link given, should be non-magnetic. An alternative to a feeler gauge is to cut up a drink can and use a piece as a feeler gauge.
I tried at least 6 different videos which didn't solve the problem at all. Saw this, did it and it worked first time. What a relief as it's my first 3DP and I had just about given up. Thank you so much Ricky
Really glad you found a video that helped.
Best video explanation. I love that you use a feeler guage instead of paper! Thank you for making this video!
Glad it helped
Thank you so helpful in my new hobby just got the same printer great vidios 👍
Best explanation ever thanks 🎉
THE BEST VIDEO IN 2023. THANK YOU GOOD SIR~!
Been at this for a few days trying many videos and getting subpar results. Watching this 2 year old video filled with tips, tricks, and actual information with no fluff.
My wife and I thank you Ricky, you gained a subscriber! Cheers have a great rest of the day! (I felt so accomplished after banging my head against this leveling for a few days , new 3D printer enthusiast)
Ender 3 V2 working PERFECTLY!
Great video. So clear. Exactly what I was looking for. It would be great to have a video like this with a bltouch installed...
I could do that. It's difficult to do a BL touch tramming video that is universal as every printer does it a little differently. I'll give it some thought and see if there is something I could do. Thanks for the suggestion.
Liked & suscribed, great vid Rick! Thx a lot
With a properly assembled machine, disabling the stepper motors will allow the gantry to free fall. All of my machines have zero binding on the z axis and will in fact easily move down by itself when power is off or steppers disabled. Because of this I use a gcode that moves my x and y around for manual checking when needed.. Thanks kindly for your great content.
I have been here at least 3 times. Great vid! Any tips for future TH-camrs?
Bravo Ricky.
Straight to the point, just the way I like it.
Some guy produce a 20 minute video for a 1 minute explaination, I think they just like to hear themself talk.
Thanks Nico, I like to keep them to the point as much as possible. Thanks for the comment 👍
@@RickyImpey You're welcome!
But Ricky, I have a Ender 3 pro for 2 weeks now, nothing but good print.
I have levelled it by using a paper for the first time, meaning that there is a little gap because I didn't moved the Z axle with 0.1.
With you're method, the nozzle is exactly ON the bed, right?
btw: came to you're channel by filtering on
@@opidopie That's right, your nozzle is possibly 0.05-0.1mm high with your method but it is probably not going to cause you any issues. If it's working for you then maybe leave it as it is.
Hey Ricky love the videos! They have helped me so much over the last 6 months. When ever i auto home my printer it homes on the z axis at 10. How would i get that done to zero so i can get the bed leveled? Just go to move z axis down to zero on the screen?
Hi Ricky. Sensational video! Thank you so much for the time and effort to create it. We followed your exact steps and it worked a treat and rectified our issue. Best video and most thorough by far. All the best on growing your channel. Subscriber #995
That's great to hear, thank you.
Jesus, Ricky! I've just seen the number of views and subscribers you now have. Well done mate! Quality wins out in the end!
Yeah, it's picking up Larry. Thanks for the support 👍
@@RickyImpey Thanks for the quality.
Ricky, this is the best leveling video ever. I use this exact method on every printer I own now except the Prusa. This method in combination with upgraded springs and I only level the bed once every few months.
I’ve also been sharing this video with anyone and everyone on Reddit that has leveling issues. Hopefully I’ve driven at least a few dozen views here 😂
Thanks for sharing the video, it really makes a difference when people do. Glad you find the video helpful 👍
Where do you find upgraded springs? Do you pick certain ones from Amazon? Or do you go to an actually 3D-printer webstore?
@@TrevorV I purchased mine on Amazon. It came with orange springs and a new set of metal leveling knobs
Very clear. Been new to 3d printing I have found bed levelling the most difficult. I have no idea why.
same, spent 3 hours trying to adjust my bed level.
Wow! had 6 months off from printing anything, and went back to troubleshoot why my printer was so shockingly bad. within 5mins I realised just how badly I'd set my printer up when I bought it. the cut off was all wrong, and it meant the bed was almost at the end of the spring travel. This sorted me right out! Thanks! I feel like a proper wally!
We all feel like that sometimes Matt. Really glad you sorted it though. I hate to see machines not being used for want of a bit of troubleshooting. Well done for working it out👍
@@RickyImpeyTalking of springs, can you clarify where the springs and handwheels should be before starting the leveling process.
Should the springs be fully compressed (pulls the bed down) or fully expanded (allows the bed to float upwards) ? I ask because whatever I do, I always end up with a situation where one corner is fully tightened up and another corner practically has its wheel falling off.
Great Video - Nice Job
very helpful thank you
Just found This channel , like the way you explain the subject in a calm and understandable manner .
There is just to much information on TH-cam and I just get more and more confused,
I subscribed to your channel and will get rid of all the other channels ,
Thank you sir , good work 👍
Ha ha, awesome!
Really glad you find the videos useful, welcome 👍
First off, great video. Explained everything perfectly clear and i learned something about it being Tramming instead of leveling. I recently just got a Neptune 3 Max and it has 6 points that are held down with adjustment screws. I take it I need to do the same process but for all 6 location where the bed is secured?
Amazing.
With the mesh 3x3 leveling my prints go up a step. Nice channel you have, subscribe for sure ;)
Thanks for the video - it has helped somewhat, but do you not set your z offset before you print? (Newbie). Thanks.
Hello Ricky! Thanks for the great video. I have done this process twice now, and I end up having my nozzle end up below the bed after homing. I don't know why. Not sure if you have an idea of why this is happening. Thanks for any advice you may be able to offer.
The offset part was great videos I saw did not mention that part so it really messed up my printing
Hey Ricky, I have an Ender 3 V2 Neo and it's almost perfectly level, all 16 points are 6.4-6.5 but the nozzle is too close to the bed, and I don't know how to move the nozzle independently (not the screws). Can you tell me how to adjust only the nozzle distance? Thank you
legend!!
I'm intrigued your guide mentions to have the nozzle at the thickness of the gauge. How would I do this with a BLTouch? Also my BLTouch hangs in the air when homed, I thought that was normal?
I used your first video to build my printer at it was awesome, really got me through all the little things tha needed doing. Only thing is my nozzle is way too high off the bed when it touches the z-limit. Even with the springs on maximum "loose" it's nowhere near a 0.1mm gap, so I'm not sure how to proceed. It feels like the z-limit is too high, but I have the little notch sitting on the top edge of the frame like yours, and other appear to have, but my bed is still too low to be near the nozzle. Any suggestions would be welcomed
Why not unscrew and move your z limit down?
Question! Shold the Z limit switch be clicking like the other ones? When I home, I can hear the X and Y click but not the Z. The movement on the Z-axis does stop though, just not audible clicking.
At 2:14 you talk about using a feeler gauge to measure the gap between the bed and nozzle. What size gauge are you using there? I assume 0.1?
Are you using/setting 0.1mm because thats your layer height or is that irrespective of layer height?
0.1 is the thickness of the feeler gauge, nothing to do with layer height.
Just got my printer, this helped so much! One problem though, How do you adjust for a warp in the bed?
I'm putting together a video about that very soon. The cheat answer is install a bed probe like a BL or CR Touch. This takes measurements across your bed and creates a 'mesh' for the printer to allow for in it's first layer. There are some things you can do to help avoid the warp in the first place but it's going to need some more in-depth explanation in a video.
@@RickyImpey Awesome! Can't wait for the vid! thanks for doing them!
I am perplexed by the z-offset. My bed was trammed pretty well, but I started over with your method, and then started a print, and the filament was printing in mid-air. I had to adjust the z-offset down to -2.08 to get it to print the first layer properly. I am using an Ender 3 V2 Neo with the bed level feature that goes around and samples the z stop at 16 points around the bed, but I'm not sure what that even does, if it can't get the head down low enough to print without adjusting the z-offset. Is the z-offset the amount of discrepancy in the z-axis sensor? I just want to understand what the z-offset is, and what is the point of the machine doing the bed level pass? The z-offset wasn't really explained as to why you set it to the height of your feeler gauge or if it needed to be reset to zero after tramming.
Hi, this video is meant for 3d printers that don't have a bed probe. The method is a little different on your Neo. Try this video for a method that should get your z offset sorted before levelling and make it a little clearer for your machine th-cam.com/video/zKpNxqWie_8/w-d-xo.html
I have a CR touch, but not installed. Should I level the bed manually before using the CR? I am a newbie to this craft, but I understand the principle of tramming from viewing your videos and a couple of other channels. Good job on all your videos.
Hi, yes, it's always best to get your bed pretty level first to make the printer's job easier. I have a few videos that will help you. First check out how to install the CR touch th-cam.com/video/f8t1iOEouPA/w-d-xo.html then have a look at the leveling method once you have it installed and the firmware updated th-cam.com/video/zKpNxqWie_8/w-d-xo.html
Thank you Ricky for taking the time and effort making concise and easy to understand videos.
I would like your advice on a minor problem. I leveled the bed at 0.1mm, but when I send it home position again, the nozzle steps up a bit and the clearance at the point is about 1.2mm!...i tried to raise the bed to close the gap at home position. However, the nozzle is apparently to high for the springs of the be to push it up enough to make close contact. Is there another way to raise the bed other than adjusting the springs? I would greatly appreciate your insight. Thank you.
Hi, assuming you are using and Ender 3 v2 or similar with no bed probe, then see if you can move the z axis limit switch down. This will move the home position down so be careful the nozzle doesn't hit the bed after. Tighten all of the bed adjusters to move the bed down first before homing.
@@RickyImpey thank you for your reply
Great video. Perfect explanation. Thank You. Just one question. After levelling the bed, do i need to set z offset to 0 or should it be left at 0.1 ?
Z offset should have your nozzle just touching the bed. Thanks for the comment 👍
@@RickyImpey So Back to 0, then, right?
@@goozoon You don't need to adjust the z offset as we didn't change it. We only moved the z position up to 0.1 so when you hit home again afterwards, it will go back down to zero.
Nice video, thank you. I have a question about the Z height adjustment you did. I just got a V2, first printer, first time touching a 3D printer, zero experience. I didn't have a feeler gauge so I used a sheet of paper which, from a little experience, i guessed was about 0.004". I trammed the bed similarly to what you show. I then found the Z offset in the attached interface and set it to -0.1mm. 0.004" is very close to 0.1mm. Notice the "-", I set it for a negative value. I downloaded, sliced, and printed a Benchy and it came out amazing. There was no noticeable "elephant's foot" effect. The printing on the bottom, "3D**.xyz" wasn't well-defined, but it was readable. But, in this video, you show using a positive offset corresponding to the thickness of the feeler gauge. I think the question, then, is this: what is the effect/function of the Z offset in the menu? Is it to basically say, "move the Z axis this much while I do something then move it back that much for a print"? I've only done the one print, the night before we left on holiday (props to the British) so I can't play with the unit; all I can do is watch videos and dream up what I'll do when I return. Thank you again for this video.
The Z offset is to allow the top surface of the bed to be 0, as opposed to the raw zero position that the stepper motor sees.
It isn't something temporary that you set whilst adjusting.
It is critical for an ongoing print to know where zero is in the Z axis. The Z offset is normally equal to the bed thickness and is usually expressed as a negative number.
awesome thanks
I hope it makes things easier John👍
@rickyImpey am I able to use a price of paper to do this
I am new to 3D printing, bought an Ender 3 V2. Already subscribed to your channel and have been watching your videos before starting the assembly.
I am perplexed by the Z-offset. So are you saying by setting the Z-offset equal to the filler gauge and then tramming the bed, we are essentially bringing the bed to ZERO level? Is this Z-offset then needs to be saved somewhere in the Firmware setting? Or is that something we need to specify in the Slicing software?
Also, if we don't save the offset then won't the nozzle touch the bed when the printer is Homed? I thought the goal is not to let the nozzle ever touch the bed as it can cause damage. Please help understand. Thanks in advance.
Hi, unfortunately it is very confusing as people (probably including me) use different terms interchangeably. If you don't have a bed probe creating a mesh then it's very unlikely that you can actually change your z offset. Z offset is a figure that tells your printer that the z axis zero point is in different position to where it is sensing it. With the stock Ender 3v2, you can't use z offset. It will always go down to the position where it activates the limit switch. When we move the z axis up the thickness of the feeler gauge, we are literally just moving it up. When we next press 'home', the z axis will again go down to where the limit switch triggers. Ideally you want the nozzle to just kiss the bed when it homes. You don't want it to push on the bed, just have no gap. The printer then moves up the thickness of your first layer when it starts printing. I hope this helps explain a little.
@@RickyImpey thank you for shedding more light on this. I appreciate it.
I have kind of understood what you are doing. I like the filler gauge idea as it seems more precise and definitive over the paper method. At least for an OCD engineer inside me 😀
Thanks again and keep up the great work.
So...why the FUCK does nobody mention about the fact that you can move the limit switch?!?! That has made such a difference that it's insane that I've not seen anyone mention it before. This dude is literally a good send
Hi Ricky great video. I've managed to get all 4 corners level using a piece of paper but the middle of the bed seems to be higher up as the paper won't fit under the nozzle. Any suggestions? Thanks
Hi Jack, it sounds like your bed is warped. This isn't necessarily a big problem if it isn't warped by a large amount. What printer are you using? What you ideally want to do is move the z axis up using the printer controls until the paper goes under and then read the displayed z height. This will tell you the amount your bed is warped. Ideally it needs to be less than any layer height you want to use.
Thanks for getting back to me Ricky. I’m using the Ender 3 v2. First time levelling the bed it seemed to be higher in the middle as explained. However I just levelled the bed again after my first print and it seems to be lower in the middle now haha. Not sure why that is. Only got printer yesterday so must have been a mistake my end
@@jackstreff No problem, the important bit is that you can use it!🙂
I’m new to 3d printing but I’m learning quickly. For the life of me I just can’t understand why so many channels instruct people to tram the bed exactly one random piece of paper too high?
Crazy right. The extra confusing part is that now some have started to allow for the offset in their firmware so you do have to tram the bed too high. They don't tell you which do and which don't so it can be trial and error! So difficult for new and experienced users to set a z offset with no bed damage.
I have a problem with the adjustment knob. The right front side knob is too loose after bed levelling. I doubt this adjustment knob can move while printing. How to solve this issue. The z- limit switch is already at its lowest position. Is there any adjustment required for Z-offset?
will this method work for a tronxy 3d printer?
3rd time around, still can't get the hang of what to look for with the feeler guage... how much/little resistance am I looking for????
-1st time, can't remember what I did: uneven bed adhesion.
-2nd time: even bed adhesion, but a ton of elephants foot that the compensation in the slicer couldn't completely get rid of. Started crashing into the back left of build plate by the 10th print.
3rd time: got upgraded bed springs because one of the stock ones was wayyy flimsier than the rest and it caused nothing but problems. Following this guide I now have the home position slightly above the bed instead of "just kissing the bed".... it looks like the home gap is about the thickness of my feeler guage (.203 mm). Not sure where I went wrong here..... I'm guessing it's because I went looser with the feeler guage this time to follow the "little bit of resistance" instructions this time in the hopes of getting rid of my elephants foot finally... or maybe the z stopper in the 1st step was set incorrectly????
Top it off with my feeler guage leaving grease all over my bed everytime, meaning cleaning the bed is necessary every single timeif I want the prints to stick.... meaning I'm all paranoid about what if I undid all that work tramming the damn bed in the first place because of the removal/replacement process.
Hi, thank you for your video, everything was very nice explained, although I have one notice, which could be for me/you/everyone else cleared. I also have CR Ender V2 and once I am setting the bed level I am doing exact same process as you except of setting 0,1mm height in Z-axis. When I think about it your setting make more sense, like an according your printing is setted (first layer 0,2mm or 0,24mm or else..) that printer goes on switch and then make desired move BUT once I set very small gap and have z=0, then when I take print the nozzle is too near to bed (according to how first layer looks), however how was it described by you, it should be opposite (nozzle should be higher). Well my question is: Could it be caused by using Prusa Slicer? Or if anyone else here have same experiences, or explanation, I'll be glad if you let me know. The reason I am writing it, that if I use your method then I would probably scrape my nozzle/bed. Thank you for your answers and have a nice day.
Hi, the most important part is that your nozzle just about touches the bed when you home the z axis. My method is just one way of getting there. It doesn't matter what slicer you use, the nozzle will move up by the hight of your first layer before any filament is extruded. I hope this helps.
Hi, thanks for quick response. Well, yes the thing with slicer make a sense. Maybe the reason is, that I am not making leveling with preheated bed. I will make some tests and if I find out something useful to share, I will let you know. Thanks again
Sorry i dont' understand. if the bed is warp (like what you said in 3:24), what adjustment can be done?
Hi and thanks for creating the video. In the bed levelling section on my printer menu there is a Z position as well as the Z offset. I understand the Z offset, but I'm not sure about the z position. I also use a 0.1mm feeler gauge during the levelling process , with the z position set at 0.0. Should the z position be set to 0.1 as I used a 0.1 gap for the levelling process?
What printer do you have? They can sometimes use similar terms for different things. The most likely case is that 'z position' is the position of your printer's z height relative to it's zero position. For example, when you home your printer, it should go to z zero, once you start printing your first layer, the z position will raise to whatever your layer height you set in your slicer software and the filament will start extruding. The z offset is for if you want to change the z height zero position. Say for instance you start printing your first layer but you think it looks like the nozzle is too far from the bed. You can adjust your z height down so that it becomes a minus figure. This way the rest of the print will also move down by this same amount as all z positions will now be relative to the new z zero position you have effectively given. I hope this helps.
@@RickyImpey I've got the ender 3 v2 running the JyersUI v2.0.1 firmware
@@siggiingason6511 ah ok.
@@RickyImpey The z position is in the prepare menu, then manually levelling. The z position is at the bottom of the manual levelling screen
@@siggiingason1306 yes then, exactly as I explained 👍
What is the size of feeler gage are you using?
What do you do when you have followed these instructions and finish by printing 20x20 bed squares, only to find that half the square seems too close and the other half seems too loose. The 20x20 squares are too small to level that small area of the bed?
What do you think of an adjustable zswitch? Made one but not got around to fitting it yet?
On the Ender 3s the z limit switch is adjustable already. I think the only time I'd want to move it is if the bed doesn't go low enough because of an obstacle. I think moving the z limit for anything else may just give you an extra variable to worry about.
Here is my question for you. I MAY have a wrapped glass bed on my tevo tornado.
My bed stays trammed for about 9 months. The x axis gantry is level, no skew. The z limit switch is tight and homes to the correct position.
BUT, even though the corners are perfect with my feeler guage, the center is super squished. If i add a z offset or babystep, the center is perfect but the edges are now way to high. I even made a set of 12 squares that print to see where the issue is and its the center of the bed.
I have put a metal square on the bed and shined a light and cant see anything so i have no idea whats going on. I can print small items just fine but anything bigger than 150mm, the nozzle is to high
It does sound possible that your bed is a little warped. Not always a big issue but you might have to do something like use a larger first layer height to allow for the deviation.
@@RickyImpey ok, i can give that a try. Its like a have a small "hill" in the middle of my bed haha
I have just followed your video and had it levelled well but it doesn't seem to have saved my settings as when I print it is a good 2-3mm higher than what I did before - do you know how to fix this please?
I followed this video the best I could and I tried almost everything I’ve heard of to fix my Ender 3 Pro and nothing has worked, everytime I level the 3D printer’s bed it may be good for one print (I make clay cutters so it like a 15 minute print) and then the next time the nozzle is higher up then the last print so it doesn’t print on the bed. Or it just doesn’t print on the bed at all after it looked perfect when I leveled the bed but when I print something out it’s not that the same level it was when I leveled it. Is there anything you suggest to fix this? I’ve watched your video on how to fix bed leveling problems for good and it’s still having those same problems after following the video 😅 I’ve even replaced the springs and wheels and it didn’t help 😅
Is it that the bed seems out of level or that the nozzle is too high? If it's the nozzle too high then I would be checking the z axis limit switch as it could be triggering inconsistently. Home the z axis 5 time in a row and see if there is any variation to the position it goes to. If there is, change your switch.
@@RickyImpey oh, maybe it is the nozzle! I’ll give that a try, thank you! :)
I have to move my z offset by -3 or -4, so the tension in the knobs is not great and I have to level really often. What should I do ?
(I have an ender 3 s1)
I thought about moving the switch down as you said in the first minutes of the video, but I don't think it's the same on the s1...
Hi, the method is a little different on a printer with a bed probe. This should help th-cam.com/video/zKpNxqWie_8/w-d-xo.html
@@RickyImpey Thank you. You're a great help :)
Just a question - if Im raising the z height by 0.1mm to level should I not set that as the home position to kiss the bed?
Hi, no. When you hit home again after tramming, the nozzle will drop back down that 0.1mm.
This seems pretty cut and dried and easy to do. I'll have to try this and see how it goes. I'll edit this comment once I try it.
Thank you. Do you know how to disable the stepper on the Ender 3 S1 Pro?
If you mean for levelling, then I don't actually disable the steppers on the S1 Pro. Just use the manual leveling screen to drive it around the bed to the different points and manually level like that before creating a mesh. I may make a video guide for this as it's slightly different to the process in both of my leveling videos.
@@RickyImpey OK, good to hear. I was wanting to follow your tramming advice as close as possible with the S1 Pro but I don't think it has the disable stepper function. But if using those 5 points in manual leveling can accomplish the same thing that should work. Thank you.
Will this also work the same way with an Ender 3 Max neo? I've tried constantly to get it perfectly leveled and I don't know if it's because of the table i have it on that may not be flat or of its just not leveler correctly.
Hi, no, the Max Neo has a bed probe so you are better off follow this video instead th-cam.com/video/zKpNxqWie_8/w-d-xo.html
I have a CR touch ender 5 s1 and it worked great for the first month. Now I made more settings than before but it doesn't work :(
Have you already set your z-offset? Or is z-offset at 0.0 and z-height at 0.1 (or whatever thickness of gauge) ?
This guide is for a printer without a bed probe so z offset is not something you should need to use.
I'm a bit confused, hopefully I don't sound too dumb 😅..
But my z offset is at somewhere around -2.25 I believe. It's an Ender 3 Neo, with CRTouch. How does this work leveling? I feel like if I have it at 0 it'll be too high from the bed?
And my auto home puts it in the "centerish" of the bed
Hi, not dumb at all. This video is for if you don't have a bed probe and I maybe didn't make that clear enough. This is the video you need th-cam.com/video/zKpNxqWie_8/w-d-xo.html Hope this helps
@@RickyImpey thank you!
Can i just use a piece if paper
After tramming the bed, should I auto levelling again or just straight printing? When I auto home again it doesn’t kiss the bed. Thanks
It sounds like you have a bed probe. You would be better with this video: th-cam.com/video/zKpNxqWie_8/w-d-xo.html
Hi I hope you see this, since I am a bit confused about the last thing you do. I will use a 0.2 feeler gauge. So I start by raising the z to 0.2 and then I start tramming the bed just like you do in the video. But what do I do when I am done? Do I reset the z to 0 or do I leave it at 0.2?
Hi Kristian, if you use the move function to raise your z height as in the video, then it is only a temporary change while you use the gauge to align your bed. When you tell the printer to auto home after aligning the bed, the nozzle returns to it's zero position, which should be just kissing the bed. I hope this makes sense. I read every comment so feel free to ask if something doesn't make sense👍
@@RickyImpey Awesome and thank you for the reply, that was what I thought :D glad to get it confirmed.
@@RickyImpey Update. I just did this on my ender 3 max and it works perfectly :D gonna do the same method to my two other printers. Also, I’m looking into getting the ender 3 s1 sometime in the future, is there anything different I have to do when it comes to levelling that one? Or is it the same process first then I let it auto-level and then set the z-offset?
@@kristianhoff3257 I haven't had a chance to play with an S1 yet but assuming it's the same as other printers with a bed probe, the method is slightly different. Basically you don't have to worry about adjusting up the z height the thickness of the feeler gauge and then disabling the steppers. Just use whatever feature the printer has to move the nozzle to each corner and make sure they are all the same distance from the nozzle (doesn't matter what the distance actually is). Then run the 'auto levelling' sequence to get a mesh. Then you set the z height separately, ensuring that zero is with the nozzle just touching the bed.
I wish I had a good time... but good video