Another Day in the Life of Wayne Lynch - Korduroy Specials
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ส.ค. 2024
- www.korduroy.tv
Wayne Lynch is a surfing legend, blazing individualistic pathways in both the performance and the lifestyle. Ascending during a time of great change and experimentation, Wayne took up the mantle personally, redefining what a surfboard should look like and how it should be ridden. Much of this innovation done outside of surfing's athletic or institutional complexes.
Today, Wayne's life is almost as it was 40 years ago. He still shapes surfboards, still lives simply by the sea. Were it not for his recent heart attack, both the observer and Wayne himself, could be forgiven for thinking things had stayed the same, despite how they change. But serious jeopardy to anyone's health, our surfing heroes included, can have a way of radically altering everything underneath the surface, appearances be damned. A rebirth into the same skin.
In this portrait, filmmaker Cyrus Sutton provides a window into Lynch's new life. With a nod to Jack McCoy's Tubular Swells, Another Day in the Life, is crafted with ultra-fine cinematography and a spare and modernist feel. The viewer is transported back to the Wayne Lynch they grew up idolizing, while making current those admirations and anchoring them in the reality of human mortality.
- Scott Hulet, The Surfer's Journal
DIRECTOR:
CYRUS SUTTON
ADDITIONAL FOOTAGE:
PAUL WITZIG
MUSIC:
"ON THE NIGHT OF A LUNAR ECLIPSE" BY A SLIGHT BREEZE
MUSIC:
"ACOUSTIC" BY THE POMEGRANATES - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Thanks Wayne. I’m 57 and have been surfing since I was 6. Last year I had nerve damage in my leg from diabetes and my leg atrophied and became so weak I couldn’t get up on my board. I’m just getting back in the water and it’s a struggle but I’m doing my best. I can’t do what I used to on a wave but your story has helped me realize that it’s ok and that just getter in the water is a blessing and I am grateful for that. Thanks again and all the best to you!!
Hi Wayne I had a heart attack 3 weeks ago in the surf off the point @ Mallacoota.. Yes everything has changed now..my daughter son and wife came and visited me here at St Vincent's yesterday..I have 2 stents and there has been a host of other complications,i am 58 now.. thanks for the Video much appreciated
Gday Henry ,I’m from Mallacoota and am sorry to hear this-glad you came thru and hope things are going well for you a few years on .. the sand at the point dissapeared just before Covid so I’m glad you got it before it did it’s cyclical disappearing act … take care
This video is so genuine...I don't know how else to put it.
Sounds like a real top bloke. I hope everyone at some stage in their life can take a step back and recognise their ego & consider what they're doing, why they're doing it and if they actually enjoy spending their time doing it
i know I am quite randomly asking but do anybody know a good site to stream new tv shows online ?
Wow!He was an inspiration when I was young and again now I`m old.
Thanks,Wayne. You were my inspiration in '67, you re- inspire me now.Gatesy.
that was a beautiful experience just watching this.
thank you wanye im 60 same era mate stay solid GB joseph
Absolutely a legend !!!!!!!
I love that story, im 66 now, and admired Wayne for his surfing as i was growing up, i love what he was saying here in this video
Whenever your inspired your life is much better
Im getting back into surfing after being away from it for a while, im getting that childlike wonderment aboit it like i did when i first started, just having fun with no pressure
Awsome video im inspired
Thank you for posting
Great reminders on reality and truth
Wayne. I love you bro.
Excellent. Thanks
in this world of lies and merchandising , Wayne still brings the ligth like he always did.
Great stuff. What a Legend 👍
At 57 too haven't surfed in 2 years rasing a 3yr old boy waynes been an inspiration as a goofyfoot since the early 80s. Thanks wayne for your surfing and your story cheers Rick
When I saw, and I don't remember which particular surf flik it was, Wayne Lynch's backside attack, I was changed, my surfing was changed forever; I never knew such an aggressive approach could be negotiated, I liked, and still do, like it!☆¡ 🙃
A lege4nd. Been a fan since the beginning.
During the 80's from South Australia I used to venture down to Bells hugging the coast all the way down. There are some raw remote waves and I used to mind surf them and think to myself "that Wayne Lynch guy surfs this stuff on his own"....puts you back in your place knowing that I just didn't have the balls to do that!
The rocker shaping machine at 3:14 looks like something that I think Velzy used in the 50's. I wonder if Wayne has as many rocker templates as shape templates and I wonder where he got the carriage that holds the router? I notice the positive pressure respirator Wayne uses for shaping. I wonder if he uses it for glassing too... I definitely fear styrenes.
Totally agree!
legendary
thanks
Yep it's like one day I went surfing got a lot of waves and when I came in it was 2021? It goes really fast!
Wayne lynch is epic!!!!!!
YES YES YES
Amazing life
Plus qu'une légende...
A true great.
The sea...bit like a one bullet in the chamber and spin the one two ..... once you have tasted the salt....been shit scared of the power ....been in awe of the beauty...depressed by ripples....exculted by the sets ...woken up drunk and disorientated.... arrived wide eyed and wondering how...when 3 foot looks like six ... just another day in the life .....of ...The Sea"
Yes brother.
Is this an excerpt or a trailer for a movie, because I don't see much of what is described in notes about this vid.
Esp the connection to how WL surfing back in 60s, I thought we would see some of his surfing from then, is there more not shown here?
Welcome to the Northern Rivers, Wayne.
We are all headed to the same place (Either as a box of bones buried in the ground or a pile of ashes in a jar or scattered anywhere). So in the end what does having stuff mean? Nothing, you're not allowed to bring your stuff with you and BTW don't worry about your glasses.
We're no bigger than a stone or smaller than a mountain. We're part of the system that keeps this ball spinning in space. One day they'll dig up the fossils of humans and try and work us out.
Inspires me to hang on.
🌴😎💯
I started surfing real late 24 years wayne lynch jerry lopez mp influenced the way i tried 2 surf they where so far ahead of the rest it was insane. Wayne lynch i think was equally as great a surfer as mp. I still watch as much of those guys as i can. Another later surfer thats sits in that mould would be rob machado. Now how fucking good is he best thing he ever did was get of that fucking tour
Wayne lynch👍
I agree with you Wayne, regarding fame and loosing the simplicity of life.
However...you do have a very nice home and freedom to do what you want right now from being a famous surfer.
Does pacified ...have anything to do with Pacific ?????
No. It was kneeboard rider George Greenough and his in the pocket positioning on the wave who was the first surfer who influenced a few other Australian surfers of note in the early / mid 1960s that consequently took surfboard riding to another level.
The thing is, you cant say that so an so single handedly, ushered in a new whatever…we are all influenced by others. I loved to watch this footage of Wayne on his backhand. When I first saw magazine images and surf movies of him, it was the new radical moves that caught my eye…especially the transitions between moves, or to get to different parts of the wave. Now when I look at these clips, it’s how tight he stayed to the critical part of the wave throughout the whole ride that impresses me…in my own rides, its the ones where you’re only just making it past every section that are the most thrilling.
His backhand surfing was pure ground breaking. He put the whole top to bottom, vertical snap off the top to jamming it off the bottom. His ability to backhand bottom turn to set up the vertical off the lip was all him, in an era when MANY, in fact most surfer's actually surfed on their forehand (frontside is a SK8ing term). Goofyfooters were seen in a similar vein as left - handed people. Of note, once upon a time, writing with the left hand was forcibly discouraged in school and as a result, my father who attended Scots College in Sydney, was ambidextrous. "Leftie" was a common nickname once upon a time. Wayne Lynch is from the periphery of that cultural and formal education. Another similarly unique phenomenon is that of natural-foots SK8ing goofy snd Goofyfooters SK8ing natural-foot. I've seen it SO often. Look at SK8ing now as it has been since it went vertical - tve advent of the "fakie" - the ability to "switchfoot" coming out of a trick/manoeuvre, to initiate the preferred stance and vice - versa. I've lived in and around Ballina/Byron and believe me there were no shortage of natural-foots who had no backhand ability at all, bar trimming or basic S - turning, they surfed SO many right's. When the great left's like South Wall, North Shelley or Sharpes would fire, the Goofyfooters were in heaven along with the natural-foots who could surf backhand. The local Goofyfoots up there were ALWAYS the most versatile of the two styles... and... we, they, ALL knew who Wayne Lynch was. I'm from Maroubra and so was Larry Blair. My little brother idolized Larry Blair, but is still uneducated, being a non - surfer, as to the ACTUAL significance of the 1978 Surfabout, when Larry Blair and Wayne Lynch traded back to back top to bottom barrells in spitting left's at North Steyne on a bank created by the Queenscliff storm - pipe. With 30 seconds to go, after swapping the lead throughout that historic heat trading of tube after tube, Wayne Lynch pulled into a 7 - second barrel, and headed to shore... at that moment, Larry Blair took off and after he got to his feet and bottom turned, the hooter sounded... he scored a 9 - second tube! Nat Young had been in the water talking to them both throughout the heat (in a 1st for many thing's - T.V. & water - immersive audio tech) and Shaun Tomson was on the beach calling it. Tomson was astonished and Wayne Lynch all but told him to f##k - off and virtually retired from contest surfing. He had been the favourite to win in the conditions. Next contest I saw Wayne Lynch paddle out was rhe epic 1981 Bells Easter, when it was 20ft and very few takers. I've seen him snap under the lip in HUGE ledging conditions and spots in W.A, Sth Oz, Victoria, in freezing cold conditions in absolutely triple overhead stuff back in the late 70's, early 80's and it still stands as all time. Jack McCoy has some awesome footage of him that has been rarely seen. Wayne Lynch is a man with a gigantic legacy and is a living national treasure and legend. His impact on backhand surfing is largely unknown and otherwise ignored nowadays... once upon a time, it was very well understood who "invented" the backhand vertical attack. He wasn't alone, but he was an innovative leader of a newer approach to "all - round" go left or right. Ask the "Bombie - Crew" at Coogee/Clovelly.
Designed and built one of those profilers in the early 80s. I would like to know what the secret history of the profiling machine was. It was a quest in the 70s and 80s to make the mythical machine. Do you have any ideas. I would like to think I invented it but I doubt that's true.
Col Smith and Nat had a shaping machine the same in 1976.It only did the top and bottom curves of the board.
Groundec
Powelly was good
We all start out as kooks and by the end we will all be kooks once more. Be nice to kooks and your fellow human 😊🤗🙄🤗🤗🙄
such chemically things, boards.
bushman style
The impartial snowman inadvertently bang because spandex indisputably signal underneath a meek revolver. purple, salty nerve
believe in Christ; live forever.
Wayne Lynch is not a bloody hero or a surfing legend, Wayne Lynch is a coward, the real hero's were sacrificing their time with families and setting aside their recreational pastimes to stand up for what they believed in, a free and democratic society, Wayne Lynch should move to North Korea where he belongs, tho neither side won the war the fact that the communists didn't win is a victory, as was the Korean war, which was also a defensive action against communism where we fought against Chinese ground forces and Russian fighter jets piloted by Russian's, while Wayne Lynch enjoyed himself in the surf that the real Australian's were fighting for to protect us from communism
I think you have him all wrong Fred, your challenge is to rise above your ignorance and learn a little about this man.
Fred . Wow u sir are an A HOLE
Capitalism is not freedom, why should i died for this rich asses that made sure their sons will surely remains home
Fred.
Look out, the dominos are falling, enjoying your bowl of rice? Oh wait, never happened. Ummm nothing to do with Korea you idiot, it was Viet Nam and conscription most were against. North Viet Nam actually conquered the South and WON the war unifying Viet Nam. They hated the Chinese and communism and fought for centuries to keep them and communism out. As Ho Chi Min told McNamara after the war "Didn't you read your history books?" We weren't defending Australia from "communism" merely cannon fodder for the US as later revealed if you bother to check the facts.
Vets are still barely recognised today nor have they even received service medals and basically ignored. The only "heroism" in Viet Nam was keeping your mates alive NOT winning any war, besides, we lost.
The "heroes" are those that stood against sending 20 year old's, selected randomly from date of birth, to war for a total lie and please note I served as a Platoon Sergeant during that period and Wayne Lynch did the right thing by keeping the fuck away from the horror of that war.
Oh and Fred, I have spoken to Wayne Lynch about this and how he was living in the bush, how the locals all supported him, even how he had a sailing boat ready to shoot through if needed. Seems the locals would be "commies" by your thinking or could it be that they were actually right in hindsight that annoys you?
Being smart is not cowardice. Poorly trained kids being sent to war is the height of stupidity and showing many a way of keeping out of it and sticking to it was indeed quite brave of him against the risk of 2 years gaol.