Basic Soldering Lesson 3 - "Cup Terminals"
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 พ.ย. 2011
- Basic Soldering For Electronics Lesson 3 - "Cup Terminals" produced by PACE, Inc.
For over forty years, PACE, Inc. has provided state-of-the-art, hands-on solder training to the electronics industry around the world. Courses and support materials are available for Surface Mount Technology, Through-Hole Technology and Multilayer PCB Repairs. In addition to our own extensive course catalog we are also an IPC Authorized Training Center.
PACE has produced a variety of instructional materials used in conjunction with our own training courses. These materials range from student guides to instructor guides to videos to CD ROM's and are also available to assist in your own in-house training needs.
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I'm glad no one threw these tutorial videos away because of their age. The useful, practical information they contain is still priceless.
Its the kind of tutorials that might even be in use today. They still explain the topic, the license has been paid, and why throw away something that does the job.
Instablaster...
Guitar amps are still built using these terminals so it's still modern for our world...
Can't believe how simple and affective these old tutorials are compared to other tutorials on youtube.
People got dumber.
@@jerryp2433 i think they rely on gadgets more than their own natural abilities
I solder XLR connectors all the time, with cup terminals, making and repairing cables, and at no time did it ever occur to me to twist my solder together and fill the cup first with solid solder. I would heat the cup and fill ti with solder, then put the tinned lead in, requiring a single long heating, or two heatings. This method requires only one heating, and is much quicker. Brilliant.
Best soldering tutorial series on the internet imo
Thanks for your confirmation that this technique is a great way to solder wires to cup terminals.
@@Anonymous-it5jw ??
Yeah! I got some nice new shiny expensive low mass binding posts with cups and I was concerned about melting the plastic. I'm going to try this method, as it seems fast.
Same. I've melted quite a few XLR and other cup terminal connectors early on in my soldering days because I applied too much heat for too long trying to get the wires in. I got better but I still haven't heard of this "pre-form" method until now. So much faster, cleaner and efficient that I'm surprised it's not talked about more often.
These tutorials improved my soldering skills 10 fold.
Wow, I've been soldering cup terminals for a while now and never knew about the solder pre-form technique. Great tip.
I love these old instructional videos. Whether they are talking about this topic or automotive topics, they always have clear, precise explanations and good examples or models to demonstrate the topic.
Damnn 1980's old school tutorials are so good you could almost watch them for entertainment only. No digital camera, no digital audio, no computer, back then people were earnest and you can feel the quality. Shame to the iphone era.
Cromemco cyclops was already around in 1975. Digital audios are also already been used in 1970s and become a norm in the 80s. Zx spectrum and commoddore 64 released in 1982 which was really popular in uk and europe for zx and america for commodore. I think c64 was even the highest selling computer model of all time. Or you can get ibm compatibles with fractions of the price of ibm pcs.
The thing is now is pretty good time to live too with better computers available, jobs in computer engineering become more open. We can make better program and AI than ever. Resources are more readily available. No one will question the reliability and potential of computers as it's already a a proven popular technology. So, they will pay us good.
ok boomer
@@hieroja9774 correct, but I do agree this video series is rather good.
Yeah let’s blame apple for everything
NASA and others used this method called resistance soldering to avoid the soldering iron heater from burning adjacent wire insolation in a cable harness connector and prevent solder flowing out of the cup. In resistance soldering with a pre-tinned wire and fresh flux core solder pre-form is acceptable for reflowing solder on pre tinned wire to form a continuous piece of metal. Instead of twisting solder for fit in cup try a gage of solder that fits.
Resistance Soldering is till is in use or any new Innovation ?
That preform method is A+! Gets you exactly the correct amount of solder.
I struggled through 6 10-pin amphenol connectors yesterday, should have found this video before I started. Thanks!
This is the best soldering video I have ever seen!!!
I love this bloke from 1981.
Thank you pace world for making this exceptional clip and leaving it up for the world to use
Wow, we've lost in quality besides having the best gear of all times video and audio wise.
What a professional video, just as entertainment it's worth watching. And the quality of speech... yes, i subscribed. I want more of this quality of yesteryear.
So relaxing to hear their voices. It genuinely makes me happy.
In resistance soldering keep your dwell time at 2 sec. after the solder melts. Call Pace on there site for further information. Best to all of you. Talking about this most difficult task.
My very best Marc W. Siegel
Thanks paceworldwide for sharing this great video. This is one of the best videos I have seen describing in detail how to use this type of soldering iron.
Never in a million years would I have thought to apply the solder that way, as a "preform". Sure glad I watched instructions.
just found the video and tried a few moments ago on a Dsub 15 connector with Sn solder of 0.8mm^2, and a 0.3mm^2 copper wire. can't beleive that it worked.
This has improved my life immensely! Thank you! - Dabbler with 18 DB-9 connectors to wire up...
This is soooo good! Dang PACE, this is gold.
These are absolutely amazing videos
saved my day! Thank you!
these 80s tutorials sound like from the Fallout game when you find them occasionally.
Just what i needed to learn for these new quick connect parts that i am using
This is perfect, golden information . I learned so much.
This go straight to the point, I'm so interested in learning electrical process. 💯💯
Really simple and nice, thanks for your information.
Love this vid!
Thanks for this!
I’ve been soldering for years now I know I’ve been doing some things right and some wrong. Now I know how solder works. Great video.
tnx po sa upload...
I fought so much with this with aviation connector, yet so easy...Thanks...
I like the sound effects! :-)
Oh god, this is bringing back nightmares of my E&E work. I loathe solder cups. I wish someone taught me that nifty trick with the solder twisting action. But QA would have probably written me up because it's not per the TO.
I've had issues soldering to cup terminals as they're what xt60 and xt30 connectors use. I never thought about using a preform before. Thanks!
Old w126 era Mercedes use molex connectors with terminal cups but with wires going into the side. Thanks for tutorial
This one ☝🏾 good
I think I will try this technique next time I solder some XT60 for my racing drone. With some very cheap XT60 I had the issue that the plastic would get too soft during soldering, maybe this will prevent that.
best video for beginers
I agree! I taught soldering but explaing process is difficult.
Thank God this wasn't tossed away.
It's fine, because the wire is pre-tinned. When the wire is dipped into the molten solder the solder on the wire melts and mingles with the solder in the solder pool. This creates a welded joint between the two parts. No additional flux is needed to make this into a good joint. After the joint cools there is a continuous phase transition between the wire, the solder and the cup. No "gaps" or discontinuous transitions exist.
Extra flux can be required, if you leave the solder hot for to long, because even solder can start to make oxides and this can make an instable joint. Happende to me several times, when I did not add flux.
Check 2M China Lake Spec. Sounds like advanced electronics. Call experts at Pace
or contact our associated training companies. Best Marc Siegel
What temperature you would say is the recommended to solder a QX16 connector (or a typical one)
Good Question. Marc Siegel.
I don't agree with this one. I'm definitely not a fan of shoving pre-tinned wires into molten solder, waiting for it to melt together then hoping for the best. These cup terminals (which I love, don't see them much anymore) should be pre-fluxed (maybe) and same with the wires. The wires should be inserted, and the solder applied to the assembly like any other good connection. TBH, pre-fluxing is not necessary either.
Their foot operated soldering station and stripper are nice, but I work in field service. I'm not about to start carting all that around the country. I do need to find good tools for travel though.
@sbdem1986 I don't think just because the wire is cold, it is a cold joint. The point is that you want to melt the solder on the not-recently-tinned surface so the flux can clean it. If the wire was recently tinned, it won't have any oxides, etc. on the outside so there is no need for flux to clean it. Therefore, I think their method is okay. However, I really don't know for sure.
60 watt soldering iron .
Great for indoor or outdoor use. Low wattage irons tend to Cool to rapidly outside .
Soldering tiny circuits is usually done indoors with no wind 30 watts? while a 60 watt or better would be great in both applications
For irons with thermostats (normally called "soldering stations"), more watts means better stability of temperature.
936 irons have a typical maximum power of 60 watts. Irons with T12 or compatible working tips have a maximum power of 70 watts. Some induction-heating irons can heat really fast at over 150W power.
FROM WHERE CAN WE GET YOUR TOOLS?PACE?
2019. Hell yea
small soldering do you have to tin the wires or just solder onto the project
Bill Annett always pre tin
1:00 why not vaporize? After the wire is set, flux is not needed anymore
"Determining how much solder to use is done experimentally". OR subtract (from the cup's area) the wire's area, and you'll know how much solder area to use.
nice! after watching this video i've just realized i soldered wrong on the db9,25,44 for years. i need to fill the cup before putting in the cable!
No, don't!
29-10-22 completed
it is so interessting that i have to watch them all hahah ( I hope that there won't be like 100 episodes hahaha )
Please check the video description where we have links for our website and our reps & distributors list. Thanks!
and why arent we doing this at work?
easy for #20 or larger wire. Demonstrate on #30 wire
Ah how good the times were when solder was full of lead
Pace.... Got a question for you. If i apply this technique of inserting wire into molten solder, dont you think it will create solder splashes and with all wires in the cups for lets say a 52 cup connector, it will be very difficult to clear the solder splashes and may lead to internal shorting. Can you explain how this can be avoided?
+Mandeep Singh Have you tried this technique? If done properly, with the right amount of solder and heat, the solder doesn't want to splash anywhere
I like
Why so much insulation gap, I would think you would want it flush with the rim of the cup?
I was thinking the same thing. Maybe because if it was totally flush you run the risk of not having enough tinned lead to fill the cup?
I'd put it against the rim to provide the benefit of additional strain relief, but it would take more time to make sure it's not too short for the wire to extend to the bottom of the cup.
Didn't look like they were too concerned about the precise length of the stripped wire, just mentioning some kind of minimum gap distance for the insulation. It didn't say what it should be or why.
Maybe the concern is the idea that squared off edge of solder against cut insulation can cause more stress then a smooth filet of solder.
Should be 1 to 2 times the wire diameter..
I don't like trying to stab the wire into the connector while heating the solder. I prefer to insert the tinned wire into the connector first, heat the wire and connector until they will melt solder, and then feed solder until the cup is filled. When I stop feeding solder, I pull the iron away within a second or two. I use a fixture to hold the wire still so that I can use both hands to solder. Trying to hold the wire steady with your fingers until it cools often results in a cold solder joint.
That's the method I'd prefer as well. I wouldn't leave the large gap of insulation shown in the video, since having it closer to the cup provides additional strain relief. Maybe they were concerned about their low temperature insulation melting under the heat.
Jesus, I've been struggling with these for longer that I am able to admit. Haha
or, just grow a third arm, so one hand holds the wire in the cup, another the soldering iron and the third applies the soLder.
- I've often said techs need a third arm for soldering.
And this is after a few days of making small looms that include hermetically sealed Mil-C connectors with solder cups that are surrounded/sunk into a connector body so very difficult to access with soldering iron tip.
- and wires with insulation that melts too, easier with Teflon sheaths.
-- much prefer Mil-C connectors with removable pins, that are crimped and then inserted!
Not sure if the 'solder-preform' would be recommended nowadays, especially for high reliability aerospace applications.
- It is essentially the same as pre-tinning the cup, you could also pre-tin the wire end, and nowadays gel-flux is available so insert tinned wire into tinned cup with a little gel-flux, and apply iron _may_ work in some applications.
wow
Me: Fires up dials to 1.21 gigawatts.....
time to go back
What's that clamp thing called...I want it. Also, I tried this today with some cup terminals and it did not go as smooth as this video leads you to believe. I held the iron to the cup just like the video and the cup melted the plastic around it before it heated the solder I put in the cup. A technique that worked a little better was to put the wire in the cup, then heat the wire and apply solder.
It's called "resistance soldering tool" in this video. However, this term could cover several designs using the same principle to work, I guess.
At 1:22 how does the iron not leave a big glob of solder on the outside of the connection? It kinda seems like it does...maybe it wouldn't matter in this situation, but what if it does?
The cup terminals I'm soldering, for XT150 connectors, have a cover that snaps into place around the base of the wire. If I pre-tin my iron and touch it to the side of the cup to heat it and insert the wire, it leaves a glob on the outside of the cup which then prevents the connector housing from being able to snap into place.
Anyone have any suggestions?
Tin one side of the iron and put the clean side on the cup, or use an exacto or razor blade to make it a thin film on the back!
Bonjour pace, svp vs pouvait me envoyé un lien en trench
💎💎💎
I really like that resistance tool. I bet it's not even available now.. :(
Mark II I haven't checked, but I'd be willing to bet my foot that it's still available -- this gear is used for military and aerospace gear, and those industries stick with things for a long time, and demand of their suppliers that things remain available.
Mark II Lookie! It's available, and it's not even that expensive! www.jensentools.com/pace-smr-8007-0565-smr-pulse-heat-rework-system/p/477-297#0
Hmmm, Christmas present for me? :D
Resistance is futile
Never knew such a tool even existed, looks handy! (Also didn't know about that pre-form technique)
Double check in standards documents from IPC.
I don't like the method of dipping the wire into molten solder. This goes against the theory of cold joints (the wire is cold and is introduced into two hot parts). Am I wrong? Comments anyone?
I first learned mil-std-454...we were taught to tin the inside of the cup first...wick it..place the wire in and then solder...outline of the lead had to be seen inside of the cup.
what is 'sodder' ?
30 cowboys don’t like this excellent demo 😂
Good response to sbdem1966 Marc Siegel
In the real world you have to solder cup terminals when they are in the horizontal position. You should show the terminals being soldered in the horizontal position.
Hmmm. I have been using solder cup Dsub connectors (9, 15, 25 pin) for years and have always soldered them in the vertical position using helping hands.
Des tutoriel hôte niveaux pour les débutant
All my life I was doing it wrong , it seems :q
My consolation is that everyone else was doing it wrong too :q
That helped i hate soldering
Why the insulation gap?
Way too much. Should only be 1 to 2 times the diameter..
@@txkflier
But why the gap at all?
@@Kackspack0815 The insulation shouldn’t touch the solder joint.
@@txkflier
Yeah, but why? What would be the problem?
@@Kackspack0815 Google it..
Is this a young Alex Trebek?
The miltary sodder soddered the wire. there is a bloody "L" in there. Gawd you yanks know how to bugger up a language. So definitely gotten to get off of a sodder machine. Amazing, really and no logic behind it all.
At least we can pronounce H and Z properly..
'Septics' are a bunch of sodding 'sods' (no "L" 😉)
U're wrong
complete false method
I'd never show such a sorry solder joint to anyone. Would never pass mil-spec inspection.
+MrCanard Did they say it was mil-spec? Don't think so, but why don't you provide an example anyway instead of just throwing tomatoes.