If this were my house, that indirect drain would completely miss the sink and all the water would wind up on the floor. You make absolutely great videos. I watched all the way through even though my washer isn’t anywhere that flooding would damage. Speaking of flooding, I use braided washer hoses that automatically cut off the water flow if they sense a sudden immediate change in pressure ie burst hose. With a second floor setup that’s important.
Actually, if prepared properly, a sloped floor to a room floor drain is best. That plastic pan almost always gets damaged if your doing a solo install of the washer...not to mention the pain if ya have to service the unit. Also, that 1" drain line is not enough if ya have a major fail as it will be overwhelmed and the pan overflows...seen it happen many times over the years.
Now that is something I forgot to consider and comment on, those plastic grip pans are the very flimsy. There's not a lot of meat to them so to speak, they get brittle easy and that front lip is going to break I guarantee it or it's going to crack and then if there is any kind of water on there more than literally a drip, you're going to have problems with it and especially if you're trying to move a washer which is heavy by yourself you got to get it up over that lip and if you're trying to use one of those portable you know dollies to move it you know it's just not going to work out too well for you I've got waterproof laminate underneath mine on the second floor, and I've got the edges tiled so that way in case it leaks it literally goes into its own little box
Silicone definitely helps seal around the pipe ours leaked under the pan because the drain hose backed out a bit and the seal was gone. I am at the point I'm thinking to just put a liner under the flooring and plumb in a floor drain because it's a PITA when having to move that machine in and out of the pan for maintenance.
I know in our city, code requires an actual FLOOR DRAIN for any laundry (laundry room) above the ground floor (2nd floor and higher) IF the home is on a slab. If the home had a basement (rare in Texas) or crawl space under the main floor, then a floor drain is required in that instance as well depending on when the house was built. A drip pan alone wouldn't do and would be unnecessary (because of the floor drain). In some ways it makes sense, because if your washer were to develop a serious leak, or the water hose was to rupture, that drip pan would never keep up. But I think these drip pans are nice for what they are intended:. Drips! Is this on an upper floor in your house? 2nd floor laundry facilities are nice. 4 of our 5 bedrooms are located on the 2nd floor of our house and I always thought it would make more sense to have laundry facilities closer to where people slept, changed clothes, etc. Not to mention there was always a parade of kids or guests carrying clothes baskets up and down the stairs to wash their clothes on the first floor. Now they do not and just walk down the hall. I think we are probably the only two story house in town that has laundry facilities on each floor. Very handy - but I am not so sure I'd do it again, as it was a lot of work. The second floor had bathrooms, but it did not have the infrastructure to support a stacked washer and dryer, so all of that had to be added. Glad I did it though, because it's been quite a time saver. Nice video!
Yep. Those floor drains may cost a wee bit to put in, but compared to the repair costs of water damage from a 2-3 floor laundryroom, it's a drop in the bucket.
@@samspade5648 oh absolutely! And there's not a second floor drain anywhere on the second floor until I installed that one for the washer which is kind of funny cuz you would think using the same logic why wouldn't you want one in your bathrooms? So that way in case the water fight broke underneath the sink or the toilet started leaking or something that it would migrate to a to a central drain. If I were to build a house from the ground up, that is probably what I would do
And for the second floor washing machine I had to run everything over there there was no plumbing where this particular closet is located, and there was no vent over there so I had to literally run everything including electrical, but it turned out very nice the dryer exhaust is maybe 4 ft long it just goes straight out the side of the house into an alcove where it can't be seen from the front yard or from the street so that way the HOA can't bitch about it
@@mattalbrecht7471 Hahahaha, it's funny you mentioned a floor drain in the bathroom. I just decided to do just that now that I'm remodeling. However, it is not as simple just putting a drain in anywhere. The floor must be properly pitched towards that drain...it's not difficult, but it must be account for.
A 2 inch pipe is required by code in my city. I would waterproof the room and install a 3 inch floor drain if I were to have one in my house. A 1 inch drain isn’t going to take all the water from a plumbing accident.I would put a sensor with automatic water shutoff in that pan as well.
My new place has this pipe in the ground but also a hole where the hot and cole inlet things is on the wall , should i use the one in the floor or the one in the wall ?
Get one of the rubber drain pans if possible. Those plastic ones slide all over the place and literally will tear themselves apart over time, making them useless. They have no grip to the floor and the washer will have no grip on the plastic.
Is there any concern with compromising the integrity of the pan by not using one of the pre-drilled holes? Could it cause cracking in the pan down the road?
That little hole isn't going to cut it. You need another inch of height and a full shower drain at the base of the pan to ensure that the lint and hair that come out through the seal don't instantly clog the hole. Drain pans have to deal with worst-case scenarios and in this case you're talking about a service line break or a tub seal blow-out. Both of those will overflow that scrimpy piece of garbage in about 20 seconds.
It might be flowing into the same drain as the showers, toilets and sinks in your house. If you have full access to it, try having someone put their ear near it while you run a sink or flush a toilet. If they hear watery noises, its using the same sewer system.
Unbelievably brilliant video and gentleman’s powerfully educational video. I needed this video like a plant needs sun & water. I am absolutely mentally floored by your top-knowledge of “doing”, but top everything with design rational, technology, reasoning around technique,…seriously brings me to tears that you squash all “amateur /profession video creators on succinctness with content^100”…they all miss how to convey so much and so cleanly; ask 1000 people to watch this video and not one (even if few of ‘em plumbers 😂) would catch or know or understand more than 20% of what you said. I am operating at 90% with every single detail you offered…right down to passive drain wtf you are brilliant. I am just am obviously impressed ;-) Keep pushing your perfect style and knowledge forward. If you do not have enough “followers”…find someone in industry of manipulating the metrics in the algorithms for youtube posts. You can’t know everything on your adventure…out-source the things you do not know. You will be shocked that the cost for some activities or services are entirely commoditized. So, having a contract with such expert will talk through your need for undermine or maximizing the YT algorithm…quote will shock you…why? Because the globe has changed: we & the market shift such computer-based business to the cheapest and most highly educated and most articulate in English to?!?? India. You might think I know this all to be fact from experience. You would be wrong. Prove me wrong and starting checking yourself. I would bet $50-200 for proof-of-concept. My motto is: why try if you can’t maximize. If I am wrong, I will pay the actual cost for this for you myself after I look and get quote. I have never done what I am telling you to do. That is how confident I am…offer made
Not good enough, Unfortunately this only addresses any water coming directly from the washing machine and does not prevent any potential flooding coming out of the water supply lines or the washing machine drain.
These videos ALWAYS skip the most important thing someone would need to know when trying to decide what to buy for this type of pan. For instance, when your buying a washing machine, you would be looking at the SIZE of the washing machine against the SIZE of the drain pan. How in the F is a 27x30in drain pan big enough for a front load washer when it is smaller than most front load washer dimensions are? So stupid...
Aye Ben, nobody shows HOW to get the washer ONTO the drain pan. After some thought, came up with this, works like a charm - WORKS WITH ONE PERSON. TWELVE EASY STEPS TO GET YOUR WASHER DRAIN PAN UNDERNEATH YOUR WASHER. If you share this/make a video on this, please credit me, thanks: 1.You need to have or know someone with a cat tree. Know the tubes used as risers? Yeh, unscrew one for this. Or, otherwise need a strong tube that is about the height of the pan lip. 2. Secure a string around the tube, and have it come out the backside of the washer, with the tube at the front, and have the string end up where you can pull on it when ready from the front of the washer. 3. Tilt up the washer onto it's hind feet. 4. Slide the washer tray under the washer until it stops at the back of the washer still on the ground on it's back two feet. 5. With the tube inside the pan, pull the string or otherwise make sure the tube is underneath the back of the washer by the lip of the pan, in the pan. 6. Lower the washer, the round tube should end up supporting the back side of the washer - the point is to not crush the lip of the pan. 7. Pull the washer towards you, using the tube as a fulcrum, and taking advantage the tube will roll forward with the washer as you pull the washer towards you. 8. When the back feet clear the rear pan lip, the entire washer should be fitting inside the pan, the back of the washer sitting on the tube still. 9.Tilt the washer towards you over the front feet, taking the weight in the back of the washer off the tube. 10. Pull the string tied to the tube to remove it from underneath the washer. 11. Lower the back of the washer onto it's back feet, which if you did it right, are now inside the pan, along with the front feet. 12. Crack a beer and have a drink for me. I'm disabled, and pulled this off with minimal penalty (pain is there just to remind you you're alive). (***Not responsible if you're too foolish to know your limits or otherwise hurt yourself.***) Ta da! Easy peasy! This took all of 5 minutes. Can't believe I searched TH-cam and there's few videos on installing the pans, and fewer to none how to get the washer on the pan. One guy uses 2x4's, which I would not recommend. Trust me, the above steps make it a breeze. Now go have a second beer for me! ;) Tip: If you have trouble finding a suitable tube for this, when you go to Home Depot or Lowe's to get your pan (not Walmart, overpriced for some reason), ask the clerk if they have any strong cardboard tubes used for various inventory items, that they normally throw out. You want a length a few inches shorter than the width of the pan, but not too short either you'll want the washer's weight spread out more over it's surface and therefore less likely to crush the tube. And, don't forget the radius must be enough to bring it around the height of the pan lip. Same height or a hair higher is better so while the weight of the back of the washer sits on it, the tray lip isn't being crushed.
Very helpful, but, in my opinion, this video would have been better if there had been more cat. Please include more cat in the future.
🤣🤣🤣
Definitely need more cat(s)!!
cat out here living it's best life 😁
If this were my house, that indirect drain would completely miss the sink and all the water would wind up on the floor. You make absolutely great videos. I watched all the way through even though my washer isn’t anywhere that flooding would damage. Speaking of flooding, I use braided washer hoses that automatically cut off the water flow if they sense a sudden immediate change in pressure ie burst hose. With a second floor setup that’s important.
Super
Great info! Like the little show your buddy put on at 2:12 lol
do you have a video where you show how to drill into the floor and install the PVC to run an indirect drain?
What a nice friendly cat
Actually, if prepared properly, a sloped floor to a room floor drain is best. That plastic pan almost always gets damaged if your doing a solo install of the washer...not to mention the pain if ya have to service the unit. Also, that 1" drain line is not enough if ya have a major fail as it will be overwhelmed and the pan overflows...seen it happen many times over the years.
Now that is something I forgot to consider and comment on, those plastic grip pans are the very flimsy. There's not a lot of meat to them so to speak, they get brittle easy and that front lip is going to break I guarantee it or it's going to crack and then if there is any kind of water on there more than literally a drip, you're going to have problems with it and especially if you're trying to move a washer which is heavy by yourself you got to get it up over that lip and if you're trying to use one of those portable you know dollies to move it you know it's just not going to work out too well for you I've got waterproof laminate underneath mine on the second floor, and I've got the edges tiled so that way in case it leaks it literally goes into its own little box
Silicone definitely helps seal around the pipe ours leaked under the pan because the drain hose backed out a bit and the seal was gone. I am at the point I'm thinking to just put a liner under the flooring and plumb in a floor drain because it's a PITA when having to move that machine in and out of the pan for maintenance.
Can you drill a whole in the center of the pan?
I know in our city, code requires an actual FLOOR DRAIN for any laundry (laundry room) above the ground floor (2nd floor and higher) IF the home is on a slab. If the home had a basement (rare in Texas) or crawl space under the main floor, then a floor drain is required in that instance as well depending on when the house was built. A drip pan alone wouldn't do and would be unnecessary (because of the floor drain).
In some ways it makes sense, because if your washer were to develop a serious leak, or the water hose was to rupture, that drip pan would never keep up. But I think these drip pans are nice for what they are intended:. Drips!
Is this on an upper floor in your house? 2nd floor laundry facilities are nice. 4 of our 5 bedrooms are located on the 2nd floor of our house and I always thought it would make more sense to have laundry facilities closer to where people slept, changed clothes, etc. Not to mention there was always a parade of kids or guests carrying clothes baskets up and down the stairs to wash their clothes on the first floor. Now they do not and just walk down the hall. I think we are probably the only two story house in town that has laundry facilities on each floor. Very handy - but I am not so sure I'd do it again, as it was a lot of work. The second floor had bathrooms, but it did not have the infrastructure to support a stacked washer and dryer, so all of that had to be added. Glad I did it though, because it's been quite a time saver.
Nice video!
Yep. Those floor drains may cost a wee bit to put in, but compared to the repair costs of water damage from a 2-3 floor laundryroom, it's a drop in the bucket.
@@samspade5648 oh absolutely! And there's not a second floor drain anywhere on the second floor until I installed that one for the washer which is kind of funny cuz you would think using the same logic why wouldn't you want one in your bathrooms? So that way in case the water fight broke underneath the sink or the toilet started leaking or something that it would migrate to a to a central drain. If I were to build a house from the ground up, that is probably what I would do
And for the second floor washing machine I had to run everything over there there was no plumbing where this particular closet is located, and there was no vent over there so I had to literally run everything including electrical, but it turned out very nice the dryer exhaust is maybe 4 ft long it just goes straight out the side of the house into an alcove where it can't be seen from the front yard or from the street so that way the HOA can't bitch about it
@@mattalbrecht7471 Hahahaha, it's funny you mentioned a floor drain in the bathroom. I just decided to do just that now that I'm remodeling. However, it is not as simple just putting a drain in anywhere. The floor must be properly pitched towards that drain...it's not difficult, but it must be account for.
Good little demo vid Benji ...Thx for posting ...
better to extend the drain line in the basement to follow the wall and then hook over the laundry sink with a 90....
True!
Excellent video and all under six minutes! Thx for sharing.
Did you put in the drain line yourself? We need a drain pan on the second floor but I am not sure they have a line for it to go somewhere
always good info, thanks.
any idea when you will start up the mini split?
Yes and he in canada? I'm surprised you even need air conditioning up there. But maybe for a month month and a half maybe two. Hahaha
Doesn't he live in canada? I'm surprised you even need air conditioning up there outside of maybe a month or two. Hahaha
A 2 inch pipe is required by code in my city. I would waterproof the room and install a 3 inch floor drain if I were to have one in my house. A 1 inch drain isn’t going to take all the water from a plumbing accident.I would put a sensor with automatic water shutoff in that pan as well.
What adapter did you use for the pvc?
Great furry helper you got there,just saying hi from Amiret and i enjoy your videos.
My new place has this pipe in the ground but also a hole where the hot and cole inlet things is on the wall , should i use the one in the floor or the one in the wall ?
You should use the one in the floor for the pan. The hole in the wall is for the regular washer draining after completing the wash.
Get one of the rubber drain pans if possible. Those plastic ones slide all over the place and literally will tear themselves apart over time, making them useless. They have no grip to the floor and the washer will have no grip on the plastic.
Great video! I like your helper!😀
Is there any concern with compromising the integrity of the pan by not using one of the pre-drilled holes? Could it cause cracking in the pan down the road?
I don't think it should matter at all.
This is a great video!!!
That little hole isn't going to cut it. You need another inch of height and a full shower drain at the base of the pan to ensure that the lint and hair that come out through the seal don't instantly clog the hole. Drain pans have to deal with worst-case scenarios and in this case you're talking about a service line break or a tub seal blow-out. Both of those will overflow that scrimpy piece of garbage in about 20 seconds.
True that it wouldn't help in a catastrophic leak scenario. Only good for the smaller minor leaks but hopefully better than nothing.
Nice job! 👍👍
HEY WHAT IF THE PIPE COMING DIRECTLY OUT THE WALL ?
We have a drain pan on our 2nd floor and I can't find where it goes down to , the house was built in 92.
It might be flowing into the same drain as the showers, toilets and sinks in your house. If you have full access to it, try having someone put their ear near it while you run a sink or flush a toilet. If they hear watery noises, its using the same sewer system.
Sweet and simple, thanks.
Just what I needed to know thx!
Unbelievably brilliant video and gentleman’s powerfully educational video. I needed this video like a plant needs sun & water. I am absolutely mentally floored by your top-knowledge of “doing”, but top everything with design rational, technology, reasoning around technique,…seriously brings me to tears that you squash all “amateur /profession video creators on succinctness with content^100”…they all miss how to convey so much and so cleanly; ask 1000 people to watch this video and not one (even if few of ‘em plumbers 😂) would catch or know or understand more than 20% of what you said. I am operating at 90% with every single detail you offered…right down to passive drain wtf you are brilliant. I am just am obviously impressed ;-)
Keep pushing your perfect style and knowledge forward. If you do not have enough “followers”…find someone in industry of manipulating the metrics in the algorithms for youtube posts. You can’t know everything on your adventure…out-source the things you do not know. You will be shocked that the cost for some activities or services are entirely commoditized. So, having a contract with such expert will talk through your need for undermine or maximizing the YT algorithm…quote will shock you…why? Because the globe has changed: we & the market shift such computer-based business to the cheapest and most highly educated and most articulate in English to?!?? India.
You might think I know this all to be fact from experience. You would be wrong. Prove me wrong and starting checking yourself. I would bet $50-200 for proof-of-concept.
My motto is: why try if you can’t maximize. If I am wrong, I will pay the actual cost for this for you myself after I look and get quote. I have never done what I am telling you to do. That is how confident I am…offer made
Thinking out of the box 👍
With the cost of propane, wouldn't it just make sense to go electric drier which is simpler and cheaper?
Depending where you are, propane and natural gas can be a ton cheaper than electric to use.
@@samspade5648 natural gas yes - for propane to be cheaper, would need expensive electricity.
Not good enough, Unfortunately this only addresses any water coming directly from the washing machine and does not prevent any potential flooding coming out of the water supply lines or the washing machine drain.
I would shoot the person who suggested an indirect drain? wtf? Just put a p-trap and connect it to the main?
These videos ALWAYS skip the most important thing someone would need to know when trying to decide what to buy for this type of pan. For instance, when your buying a washing machine, you would be looking at the SIZE of the washing machine against the SIZE of the drain pan. How in the F is a 27x30in drain pan big enough for a front load washer when it is smaller than most front load washer dimensions are? So stupid...
Hey, you need to feed that cat! Way too skinny! (Seriously, feed the cat.)
Aye Ben, nobody shows HOW to get the washer ONTO the drain pan. After some thought, came up with this, works like a charm - WORKS WITH ONE PERSON.
TWELVE EASY STEPS TO GET YOUR WASHER DRAIN PAN UNDERNEATH YOUR WASHER. If you share this/make a video on this, please credit me, thanks:
1.You need to have or know someone with a cat tree. Know the tubes used as risers? Yeh, unscrew one for this. Or, otherwise need a strong tube that is about the height of the pan lip.
2. Secure a string around the tube, and have it come out the backside of the washer, with the tube at the front, and have the string end up where you can pull on it when ready from the front of the washer.
3. Tilt up the washer onto it's hind feet.
4. Slide the washer tray under the washer until it stops at the back of the washer still on the ground on it's back two feet.
5. With the tube inside the pan, pull the string or otherwise make sure the tube is underneath the back of the washer by the lip of the pan, in the pan.
6. Lower the washer, the round tube should end up supporting the back side of the washer - the point is to not crush the lip of the pan.
7. Pull the washer towards you, using the tube as a fulcrum, and taking advantage the tube will roll forward with the washer as you pull the washer towards you.
8. When the back feet clear the rear pan lip, the entire washer should be fitting inside the pan, the back of the washer sitting on the tube still.
9.Tilt the washer towards you over the front feet, taking the weight in the back of the washer off the tube.
10. Pull the string tied to the tube to remove it from underneath the washer.
11. Lower the back of the washer onto it's back feet, which if you did it right, are now inside the pan, along with the front feet.
12. Crack a beer and have a drink for me. I'm disabled, and pulled this off with minimal penalty (pain is there just to remind you you're alive). (***Not responsible if you're too foolish to know your limits or otherwise hurt yourself.***)
Ta da! Easy peasy! This took all of 5 minutes. Can't believe I searched TH-cam and there's few videos on installing the pans, and fewer to none how to get the washer on the pan. One guy uses 2x4's, which I would not recommend. Trust me, the above steps make it a breeze. Now go have a second beer for me! ;)
Tip: If you have trouble finding a suitable tube for this, when you go to Home Depot or Lowe's to get your pan (not Walmart, overpriced for some reason), ask the clerk if they have any strong cardboard tubes used for various inventory items, that they normally throw out. You want a length a few inches shorter than the width of the pan, but not too short either you'll want the washer's weight spread out more over it's surface and therefore less likely to crush the tube. And, don't forget the radius must be enough to bring it around the height of the pan lip. Same height or a hair higher is better so while the weight of the back of the washer sits on it, the tray lip isn't being crushed.
You should do a video on this.