This is the major reason why I would prefer a raised foundation as opposed to a concrete foundation. Of course the raised foundation's a little bit more initial cost, the fear factor of a sewage leak, water leak or electrical/cable lines being possibly inaccessible due to being buried in or under concrete doesn't appeal to me. That's my opinion. Every habitable property I've owned has had a crawl space/raised foundation with the exception of a townhome that I owned for less than 2 years. I love the access. Water pipes, sewer pipes, electrical wiring, etc. no problem...🤔
I prefer a house with a basement. That way most the maintenance items are accessible from the basement. Unless you have a leak under the basement slab.
Nice job ! Those ARC bands are great - expensive but really high quality. Only issue is that there is no center lip which similar to Fernco's - they can offset over time. I'll use a standard stainless no hub coupling on one side and just one ARC on the other. Our Code requires a metal plate underneath it to act as a brace.
Exactly what I know too!!! Best way to do it is run slightly thinner pipe to tunnel through the whole length or as I saw one guy do, a bigger pipe over it via a trenchless repair job!
I would have taken the time to cover the walls with plastic and used a saw with a water connection. Thats the only way to keep the dust in check! If you are doing it your way you need to have a box fan on a couple of windows to extract the dust outdoors.
Well-done, very informational. THANK YOU! BTW, It's a "rotary hammer" not a hammer-drill. At least, that's the naming convention I'm used to in the United States. Hammer drills lack the impulse power as they have to move a massive chuck back and forth.
@@philh8023 Trenchless is going to be very difficult to DIY, I believe. There aren't very many people who keep the stuff on hand to do a trenchless refurb.
First of all I gotta say what a heck of a job you did- And man oh man you just gotta love the Fernco fittings of any kind. I know they made my plumbing days a whole lot easier. Hey, ive got a quick question... How did you find the exact location of the leak and pipe beside for knowing the layout? I used to pay $1000 bucks just to have a company called Sonar Bonar come out for 30 minutes put a sonar and listen for bubbles wich only half of the time indicated a reference of a leak and area. Man oh man! ??? 💪😎👍 You da man!
If your slab is post tension it will usually be stamped in the garage. If that’s the case, absolutely do not do this repair without bringing in a foundation contractor. Post tension started to appear in Phoenix Arizona in about 2000.
I ended up turning mine into insurance, they will not pay for the pipe to be replaced but they did however pay for the replacement of the concrete cabinets, floor, and they paid for a hotel for a month.
I had to pay $200 for the plumber to exactly locate the blockage. He used a sewer line camera to pinpoint the blockage. Then he used an above ground "metal locator" device to mark the concrete while the sewer line camera was at the blockage location. Good luck.
Wow, another great video, but why do you only have two videos on your home page? You were made to be a video teacher. Just picked up my new tile today and I'm going to redo my 72 years old bathroom next week. I have never done this type of work before but at 73 years old my spirit needs a challenge. My question to you is after the red guard can I still put a rubber liner then the final deck mud? Oh, my bath walls have tile, mortar, and wire, it's going to be a dusty job..
Always use the right tool for the job. Sure, you can use a hammer and chisel but it will take you forever and increases the chance of an injury. You save money doing it yourself so get the right tool is my philosophy.
The pipe was traced by a local plumbing company. It was a camera/locator head snake. The snake stopped at the root intrusion. A surface metal detector like device located the position of the snake/ root intrusion. The cost was about $300.
Thanks Bryan, It took me about 2 days. I'm sure a pro would take less time. This sewer line was upstream from the main line. So there was no total sewer line down time. Good luck with your project.
I hired a local plumbing company to put a scope down the pipe. The plumbing company identified where the roots entered the pipe. The root intrusion location was marked using a surface device on the top side of the concrete . The cost was around $250.
@@28_babyshark a leaking water pipe in an adjacent wall or a leak of a water pipe under the slab and the water is seeping up through a crack in the slab.
I wonder if it would pass code inspection if I did that under a permit or if repairs were needed to the frame sill plate or if walls were moved ,would that slab be recertified or approved for the project after that was done without a permit or with a permit because I have heard of horror stories that resulted in government forced tear downs of expensive homes because issues like that.
All that work to remove old cast, just to install cast. SMDH. Why not install sch 40 instead? Would last forever! Hire a licensed plumber next time. Regards, a Licensed Plumber.
Great job, you saved about 3000.00 doing this job. It's also very smart to have a helper you can hurt yourself and no one is there to help.
This is the major reason why I would prefer a raised foundation as opposed to a concrete foundation. Of course the raised foundation's a little bit more initial cost, the fear factor of a sewage leak, water leak or electrical/cable lines being possibly inaccessible due to being buried in or under concrete doesn't appeal to me. That's my opinion. Every habitable property I've owned has had a crawl space/raised foundation with the exception of a townhome that I owned for less than 2 years. I love the access. Water pipes, sewer pipes, electrical wiring, etc. no problem...🤔
I prefer a house with a basement. That way most the maintenance items are accessible from the basement. Unless you have a leak under the basement slab.
Wet cutting & plastic protection. Maybe old school but does the trick !!-- No dust !!!
Nice video, awesome recap at the end. Good job saving money and getting cool new tools
Test for additional leaks before cementing the slab
What a project. Subscribed
It’s not easy job but it’s doable! I going to try it and try to save me about 4K. Thanks for the video and keep up the good work!
Thanks, you definitely save money. Use the proper safety equipment. Good luck!
Nice job ! Those ARC bands are great - expensive but really high quality. Only issue is that there is no center lip which similar to Fernco's - they can offset over time. I'll use a standard stainless no hub coupling on one side and just one ARC on the other. Our Code requires a metal plate underneath it to act as a brace.
my concern is that the entire pipe is likely deteriorating, so in a year you are repairing another section.
Exactly what I know too!!! Best way to do it is run slightly thinner pipe to tunnel through the whole length or as I saw one guy do, a bigger pipe over it via a trenchless repair job!
Yep.............. this is a 'temporary' repair for sure.
I would have taken the time to cover the walls with plastic and used a saw with a water connection. Thats the only way to keep the dust in check! If you are doing it your way you need to have a box fan on a couple of windows to extract the dust outdoors.
Great video!
Well-done, very informational. THANK YOU! BTW, It's a "rotary hammer" not a hammer-drill. At least, that's the naming convention I'm used to in the United States. Hammer drills lack the impulse power as they have to move a massive chuck back and forth.
Thanks for video! My husband and I are going to tackle a job like this now. Wish us luck! 🙂
How it is done? And how much did you spend? Why not use trenchless technology?
Good luck !
any update?
@@philh8023 Trenchless is going to be very difficult to DIY, I believe. There aren't very many people who keep the stuff on hand to do a trenchless refurb.
Great video, i would also add how you tested for leaks, and did you put any back fill under the pipe?
First of all I gotta say what a heck of a job you did- And man oh man you just gotta love the Fernco fittings of any kind. I know they made my plumbing days a whole lot easier. Hey, ive got a quick question... How did you find the exact location of the leak and pipe beside for knowing the layout? I used to pay $1000 bucks just to have a company called Sonar Bonar come out for 30 minutes put a sonar and listen for bubbles wich only half of the time indicated a reference of a leak and area. Man oh man! ???
💪😎👍 You da man!
It didn't pick up the dust because the hose had a double kink from the moment the saw was first turned on. @1:51
Don't you think the rest of the cast iron pipe will fail at some point?
Will the remaining pipe not break down in other places. Causing you to have to do this all again?
It can and will but that may be 11 years from now.
Exactly what I was thinking... Probably would have been better to clear and epoxy sleeve it?
Can you school me on why rebar is needed?
Only one problem.... the rest of the pipe is going to fail in the next few years. That was a difficult to apply band-aid.
4:55 all you needed was the jack hammer
You should have used lead because your straps will corrode in time. Also hopefully you laid sc4 under your pipe.
What about any Foundation concerns for post tension slab cable with beam?
If your slab is post tension it will usually be stamped in the garage. If that’s the case, absolutely do not do this repair without bringing in a foundation contractor. Post tension started to appear in Phoenix Arizona in about 2000.
Nice but why didnt you put a clean out in while doing this?
I ended up turning mine into insurance, they will not pay for the pipe to be replaced but they did however pay for the replacement of the concrete cabinets, floor, and they paid for a hotel for a month.
My insurance denied me at every turn. I mean my former insurance company
How did u get them to pay for that
@@harrington214they always claim to have made insurance to pay, but never explain how. So, I guess they just bullshitting
Could you have done the sleeve thing that they do now?
All that work and you put ABS in??? Wow
how did you precisely locate the damaged area and know exactly where to cut into the concrete?
I had to pay $200 for the plumber to exactly locate the blockage. He used a sewer line camera to pinpoint the blockage. Then he used an above ground "metal locator" device to mark the concrete while the sewer line camera was at the blockage location. Good luck.
be nice if you put a link for the tool...or at least the name. good video though.
Wow, another great video, but why do you only have two videos on your home page? You were made to be a video teacher. Just picked up my new tile today and I'm going to redo my 72 years old bathroom next week. I have never done this type of work before but at 73 years old my spirit needs a challenge. My question to you is after the red guard can I still put a rubber liner then the final deck mud? Oh, my bath walls have tile, mortar, and wire, it's going to be a dusty job..
Would i be possible to drill a hole and get a crowbar under one side of that concrete and just pry it up and save all the jackhammer work?
Always use the right tool for the job. Sure, you can use a hammer and chisel but it will take you forever and increases the chance of an injury. You save money doing it yourself so get the right tool is my philosophy.
how did you trace the pipe
The pipe was traced by a local plumbing company. It was a camera/locator head snake. The snake stopped at the root intrusion. A surface metal detector like device located the position of the snake/ root intrusion. The cost was about $300.
This is probably going to make me do this job; thanks a lot.
Excellent video complete with job progressions. One question I would ask is how long did it take to do the entire job?
Thanks Bryan,
It took me about 2 days. I'm sure a pro would take less time. This sewer line was upstream from the main line. So there was no total sewer line down time. Good luck with your project.
This is my weekend...
How did you know the exact point of the break?
I hired a local plumbing company to put a scope down the pipe. The plumbing company identified where the roots entered the pipe. The root intrusion location was marked using a surface device on the top side of the concrete . The cost was around $250.
Helpful thanks? No damp membrane? What stops rising damp?
was that making your house smell like gas sewe?
One indication of a leaky pipe, will it make the carpet wet?
Sewer lines are not under pressure. If you have wet carpet you're in big trouble
@@robertdeming1802 So what do you mean? What could cause the problem, please educate me.
@@28_babyshark a leaking water pipe in an adjacent wall or a leak of a water pipe under the slab and the water is seeping up through a crack in the slab.
Good video. Thanks
I wonder if it would pass code inspection if I did that under a permit or if repairs were needed to the frame sill plate or if walls were moved ,would that slab be recertified or approved for the project after that was done without a permit or with a permit because I have heard of horror stories that resulted in government forced tear downs of expensive homes because issues like that.
Probably not in my town. They hate furncos unless you bury them in concrete. If the repair is over 4ft long, they really go APEshit!
save you some money , use a skill saw with diamond blade
Where did you buy the pipe ?
How did you glue the rebar into the holes you drill?
Crazy glue?
This is why these sorts of houses aren't built to last.
That’s concrete slab has mastic acm which he’s cutting thru. Isn’t so good
Would have been better to do a reline rest is probably the same.
Its 60 psi and make it click (3) t
imes and use the proper tool SEEKONK TORQUE WRENCH ITS THE RED ONE..
Metal sleeve underground in water? Obvious you will fix and sell the house.
It’s stainless steel so it won’t rust out.
Do you have to have a permit to do that much work space?
No
Depends on where you live. Better to get permission and pay for the permit than get a code violation later and cant sell your house.
A man's home is his castle, we don't need no stinkin' permit. 🙂
@@DannyOhana u havent been to mexico, have you..
Not on Sunday’s 🎉
Put water on my evolution saw
Supposed to be filled with 57 lime stone but it'll probably be ok
Your suction hose was kinked, that’s why the dust. not rocket science. I saw a similar presentation on the Red Green show.
Now do that same thing a couple feet from there where the old pipe started leaking through again...
Squirt water on the saw
All that work to remove old cast, just to install cast. SMDH. Why not install sch 40 instead? Would last forever! Hire a licensed plumber next time. Regards, a Licensed Plumber.