Great video, nice tour of your rabittry. I like your outdoor shed, looks so practical and simple to do. Thank you for the information. How much feed do you give each rabbit per day? How many breeding males and does do you have in your rabbitry now? God bless you!
Really enjoyed the video,its very informative. I had a pet rabbit years ago that was in an outside hutch and did well throughout winter. Now I'm wanting to start raising and butchering meat rabbits,so this was very helpful. My neighbors garage blocks much of the prevailing wind in the corner of my property where theyll be,but I'll probably go around the outside with covering during the worst part of winter on the windy sides. I like the aluminum bowls too. I was wondering how to keep their bottles from freezing and busting. I seem to be stuck buying hardware cloth to build my hutches because I cant find any 1x2 welded wire anywhere,unless you buy a large roll that's over $200.
Do NOT use hardware cloth it will be a disaster and is not appropriate for meat rabbits. The wire gauge is far to thin and will seriously harm their feet. It is a nightmare to work with and is not durable. It will only last a few months and will not support a full grown meat rabbits weight for a few months at best. Also the holes are to small to let manure through. There are many of online retailers that will sell you wire in pre-cut lengths, I use www.klubertanz.com/ I have a video talking about the best wire to use. Wire is not something to skimp on and you should buy the best you can afford. Any corners you cut now will cost you far more in money, time, and heartache in the long run. Also I don't use bottles in the winter because they freeze. I though out and refill the crocks twice a day.
@@westmeadowrabbits Their product floor panels are a good deal,and I will order those,but their 16 gauge 24"×100' rolls of 1"×1 1/2" are still over $200. I just cant afford that right now. For their feats sake I will get their product floor panels. I've checked every rural king,tractor supply ,farm bureau,and feed store within 50 miles of me and not only did they not have it,but they said they dont stock it. I asked em what they recommended for rabbits and they mostly said hardware cloth, except for one that pointed me to Bass equipment, which had decent prices for prebuilt cages that looked of good quality, but for 3 cages with shipping itd still be over $200. I may be able to do better and replace my cheap homemade cages one or two at a time later,but for now,this is where I'm at and will have to make do. I appreciate that link,they look like a good company to work with.
Dude I’ve been giving our rabbits limbs and hay but the cedar branches they are loving it! We will be getting 4 meat rabbits of some sort to get that part going this year
@@Daddyfarmer I have a lot of overgrown floribunda roses and cut vines daily and give also greens but I read locust, oak and cedar were poisonous to rabbits but obviously not. I have a lot of wild locust, oak and cedar.
In my region it never gets below negative ten, but most oft his stuff should be applicable in most places in the Continental US. Alaska would probably need some modifications but the same principles apply. The two most important things for winter care are making sure they have enough water and keeping them out of the wind. WE just had a Nor'easter and I covered the fronts of exposed cages with cardboard. Once the storms passed they are open again.
Depends on what I'm using them for, but for breeding females, I usually make them 36"x24"x 24". Bucks and juveniles are typically in slightly smaller cages. All my cages are two feet tall to allow the rabbits to hop and stand up on their hindlegs. This is not standard in the industry but they like to stand up on their legs so I feel it is more ethical to give them the space to do so.
CAN you give me a link for heated rabbit water system ...I have never come across one. I use a heat lamp outside the cage but over the water. Thank you.
This is cruel.. They can get bumblefoot etc because of the wire flooring, They cant run around…. Just not good, I don’t think you know this because you seem like a nice man put please put slme cardboord or wood on the floor…
I understand your concerns, but I can assure you my rabbits are well taken care of. Each cage has plastic resting broads with slots to allow manure and urine to pass through. Some cages have wooden areas inside where mothers make their nests, so those cages do not have boards. I do not use cardboard because it will become wet and dirty very quickly. As a professional breeder who has seen hundreds of rabbits throughout all stages of life, I am well aware of the many health problems they can have. I should point out that sore hocks (aka bumblefoot) is heavily influenced by genetics, and even pet rabbits kept on solid flooring can get it. Because I am breeding for meat and quality genetics, any rabbits that develops issues is culled from the herd and eaten. This means that none of my rabbits live with any uncomfortable or debilitating ailments including sore hocks. In regards to space, my rabbit cages are significantly larger than standard, and are made with higher quality and thicker wire (thus more comfortable) than standard. These rabbits are destined to be food and are not socialized, and they do not enjoy human contact because of this. While they might not live as nicely as pet rabbits, their lives are as clean, comfortable and safe as they can be. I appreciate you commenting in a civil manner, which is why I am replying rather than removing your comment. But please understand, these animals are livestock not pets, and as they say, that's life on the farm.
Sam, Thanks for explaining what needs to be done in the winter. 🙏poppy
lovely, well-cared for rabbits
Thank you!
I like your set up
Thanks! Its a bit all over the place but it works!
Great video, nice tour of your rabittry. I like your outdoor shed, looks so practical and simple to do. Thank you for the information. How much feed do you give each rabbit per day? How many breeding males and does do you have in your rabbitry now? God bless you!
instablaster.
Eating the extension cord under the no with the snowblower "people"didn't know it was under there😂
Been there
Thank you!!!
You can direct bury UF cable for power. Just use pvc conduit on the ends.
One of these days I will get around to it!
Really enjoyed the video,its very informative. I had a pet rabbit years ago that was in an outside hutch and did well throughout winter. Now I'm wanting to start raising and butchering meat rabbits,so this was very helpful. My neighbors garage blocks much of the prevailing wind in the corner of my property where theyll be,but I'll probably go around the outside with covering during the worst part of winter on the windy sides. I like the aluminum bowls too. I was wondering how to keep their bottles from freezing and busting. I seem to be stuck buying hardware cloth to build my hutches because I cant find any 1x2 welded wire anywhere,unless you buy a large roll that's over $200.
Do NOT use hardware cloth it will be a disaster and is not appropriate for meat rabbits. The wire gauge is far to thin and will seriously harm their feet. It is a nightmare to work with and is not durable. It will only last a few months and will not support a full grown meat rabbits weight for a few months at best. Also the holes are to small to let manure through.
There are many of online retailers that will sell you wire in pre-cut lengths, I use www.klubertanz.com/ I have a video talking about the best wire to use. Wire is not something to skimp on and you should buy the best you can afford. Any corners you cut now will cost you far more in money, time, and heartache in the long run.
Also I don't use bottles in the winter because they freeze. I though out and refill the crocks twice a day.
@@westmeadowrabbits Their product floor panels are a good deal,and I will order those,but their 16 gauge 24"×100' rolls of 1"×1 1/2" are still over $200. I just cant afford that right now. For their feats sake I will get their product floor panels. I've checked every rural king,tractor supply ,farm bureau,and feed store within 50 miles of me and not only did they not have it,but they said they dont stock it. I asked em what they recommended for rabbits and they mostly said hardware cloth, except for one that pointed me to Bass equipment, which had decent prices for prebuilt cages that looked of good quality, but for 3 cages with shipping itd still be over $200. I may be able to do better and replace my cheap homemade cages one or two at a time later,but for now,this is where I'm at and will have to make do. I appreciate that link,they look like a good company to work with.
@@ciphercode2298 Good luck, the floor panel is the most important anyways.
@@westmeadowrabbits Thanks friend,I really appreciate that link.
Nice
Dude I’ve been giving our rabbits limbs and hay but the cedar branches they are loving it!
We will be getting 4 meat rabbits of some sort to get that part going this year
Glad to hear!
I didn't know you could give cedar branches.
@@vixxcottage almost anything we put in they eat some faster than others. I like saving money lol
@@Daddyfarmer I have a lot of overgrown floribunda roses and cut vines daily and give also greens but I read locust, oak and cedar were poisonous to rabbits but obviously not. I have a lot of wild locust, oak and cedar.
@@vixxcottage No they are not. But like all animals they like eating other things better. Like me I love bread 🥖 lol
Why do you use water bowls unlike other meat rabbit owners that use water bottles? Also how do you make sure they don’t spill it?
I only use bowls in the winter, and they are fairly heavy and difficult to spill. Also they usually freeze pretty fast.
How much pellets are you giving them? Cup a day?
Depends on a lot of factors, but usually I use a tuna fish fan as my base. Sometimes a little more or less depending on the rabbits condition.
It would be nice to have some temperatures can you do a this at minus 30 to minus 40
In my region it never gets below negative ten, but most oft his stuff should be applicable in most places in the Continental US. Alaska would probably need some modifications but the same principles apply. The two most important things for winter care are making sure they have enough water and keeping them out of the wind. WE just had a Nor'easter and I covered the fronts of exposed cages with cardboard. Once the storms passed they are open again.
I have to use heated water bowls. Im in Mn and we get to -30 below.
how big are your wire cages?
Depends on what I'm using them for, but for breeding females, I usually make them 36"x24"x 24". Bucks and juveniles are typically in slightly smaller cages.
All my cages are two feet tall to allow the rabbits to hop and stand up on their hindlegs. This is not standard in the industry but they like to stand up on their legs so I feel it is more ethical to give them the space to do so.
@@westmeadowrabbitsCan you show how to make them? And possibly make a video on what cages rabbits need with your experience of best models?
Do you have a video of cage construction?
I don't have one of making the cages, but I talk about the wire and process in this one th-cam.com/video/YS4nIvyn1PQ/w-d-xo.html
CAN you give me a link for heated rabbit water system ...I have never come across one. I use a heat lamp outside the cage but over the water. Thank you.
Can't say I know one off the top of my head. I'd try giving it google search.
@@westmeadowrabbits Thanks...I have never found one on the internet...wish you luck...and hope you can help.
What size are the aluminum crocks?
They come in standard sizes from Bass Equipment. I usually get 4" diameter for single rabbits.
Where are you located ? Im in North Dartmouth mass
Haverhill MA.
@@westmeadowrabbits if you are ever a bit closer keep me in mind . I would love red nz . I am willing to travel some . God bless
Can any predators get them? Do they try?
In theory a really determined predator might be able to, but I haven't had any try. These cages are close to my house so not a huge issue for me.
How to I should deal with baby rabbits in the winter?
As long as you put three to five inches of pine shavings in the nest box and keep them out of the elements you should be fine.
Just so you are aware eating snow will dehydrate you even worse.
This is cruel.. They can get bumblefoot etc because of the wire flooring, They cant run around…. Just not good, I don’t think you know this because you seem like a nice man put please put slme cardboord or wood on the floor…
I understand your concerns, but I can assure you my rabbits are well taken care of. Each cage has plastic resting broads with slots to allow manure and urine to pass through. Some cages have wooden areas inside where mothers make their nests, so those cages do not have boards. I do not use cardboard because it will become wet and dirty very quickly.
As a professional breeder who has seen hundreds of rabbits throughout all stages of life, I am well aware of the many health problems they can have. I should point out that sore hocks (aka bumblefoot) is heavily influenced by genetics, and even pet rabbits kept on solid flooring can get it. Because I am breeding for meat and quality genetics, any rabbits that develops issues is culled from the herd and eaten. This means that none of my rabbits live with any uncomfortable or debilitating ailments including sore hocks.
In regards to space, my rabbit cages are significantly larger than standard, and are made with higher quality and thicker wire (thus more comfortable) than standard. These rabbits are destined to be food and are not socialized, and they do not enjoy human contact because of this. While they might not live as nicely as pet rabbits, their lives are as clean, comfortable and safe as they can be.
I appreciate you commenting in a civil manner, which is why I am replying rather than removing your comment. But please understand, these animals are livestock not pets, and as they say, that's life on the farm.
West Meadow Rabbits Thanks you for your reaction, I am glad to hear all this, I also shouldn’t judge so quickly. But have a good day🥰